Sep 3/11 LCBO Vintages release: some notes

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR SEPTEMBER 3, 2011
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is a guide to
thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers
and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1995. My tastings are based on
MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price
Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE:
The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine
writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not available for re-
tasting.

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Inniskillin Barrel Aged Pinot Gris 2009 VQA Niagara: bold flavours,
concentrated body and textures, long finish. Creamy from BA but not
toasty. 14% ABV. +177766, $19.95, QPR: 90.
2. Napa Ridge Chardonnay 2009 Napa: a restaurant wine, good MVC
intensity for a Cali chard. +213678, 89, $18.95.
3. Sebastiani Chardonnay 2008 Sonoma: a restaurant wine, good MVC
intensity for a Cali chard. +30791, $17.95, QPR: 89.
4. Zolo Torrontes 2010 Mendoza: dryish mode, food or sip, summer wine.
+183913, $12.95, QPR: 89.
5. Ventisquero Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Casablanca: good value for
a MVC savvy, 13% ABV. +211904, $12.95, QPR: 89.
6. Seresin Momo Chardonnay 2009 Marlborough: lightly toasted for a
different taste, 14% ABV, affordable. +247247, $18.95, QPR: 89.
7. Les Fosses d'Hareng Vouvray 2008: off-dry complexity is revealed,
great for summer and chenin blanc lovers. Gold Medal winner. +224287,
$17.95, QPR: 89.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Cline Ancient Vines Carignane 2009 Contra Costa County: plums,
chocolates, cloves – back to school!! 14.5% ABV +32177, $19.95, QPR:
89.
2. Rutherford Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Napa: a restaurant-ready
wine, MVC cab from Napa, 13.5% ABV. +73817, $19.95, QPR: 89.
3. St. Supery Merlot 2007 Napa: delicious, fruit-driven, off-dry on
mid-palate, milk chocolate too (not mocha), 14.5% ABV. Great value for
a good merlot. +398214, $18.95, QPR: 91.
4. Chemin de Terre 2006 Oregon: a field blend type of wine (seven
varieties), 13.5% ABV. +234724, $14.95, QPR: 89.
5. Tierra Alta Reserva Carmenere 2007 Maule: good value, substantial
fruit upfront, some herbaceousness like a cab franc. 14% ABV. +236067,
$13.95, QPR: 90.
6. Gotham Shiraz 2009 Langhorne Creek South Australia: juicy with
terrific Oz shiraz MVC. Twist top. $14.5% ABV. +243048, $18.95, QPR:
89.
7. Maison Roche de Bellene Cotes du Nuits-Villages 2009 Vieilles
Vignes: candied, off-dry on the mid-palate, but very decent value.
13.5% ABV. Affordable pinot noir. +240473, $19.95, QPR: 89.
8. Tocchi Sagrantino di Montfalco 2004 Tuscany: blueberry assault but
aging well, with depth and full expression of the grape. Needs food.
14.5% ABV. +174664, $19.95, QPR: 90.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1. Benziger Sangiacomo Vineyard Chardonnay 2009 Carneros, +172205,
$28.95 retail.
2. Miner Wild Yeast Chardonnay 2007 Napa, +45906, $44.95.
3. Yalumba The Signature Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz 2006 Barossa,
+528356, $51.95.
4. Lammershoek Roulette 2006 WO Swartland SA, +58164, $25.95.
5. Rust en Vrede Estate Red 2007 WO Stellenbosch SA, +997742, $37.95.
6. Corte Majoli Amarone Della Valpolicella 2007, +81943, $33.95.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

Drink Book of the Month!!

1. WINE; a cultural history (Reaktion Books, 2010, 2011, 280 pages,
ISBN 978-1-86189-790-9, $29 US soft covers) is by John Varriano, a
published art history professor, now emeritus from Mount Holyoke
College. It is actually a catalogue/guide to the exhibition "Wine and
Spirit: Rituals, Remedies, and Revelry" which was organized by Mount
Holyoke. The exhibition began in Massachusetts and moved to Rochester
New York. This is a celebratory book as told in reproductions of works
of art. Wine has a rich history: it has been found everywhere, used in
all circumstances from healing to religious ceremonies to dinner
parties to drunken bacchanalia. Varriano emphasizes the polarizing
effect wine has had on society and culture through the ages in this
richly illustrative book. He covers art, literature, science,
technology of wine making, and the like, in a witty, informative and
informal style. There are about 105 illustrations (88 in colour). As
such, it's more accessible than Younger's "Gods, Men and Wine" (1966).
There are extensive end notes and a long bibliography for further
reading.
Audience and level of use: the casual art or wine lover, those
interested in the cultural history of wine.
Quality/Price Rating: 90.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

Aug 20, 2011: LCBO Vintages Release -- some tasting notes...

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR AUGUST 20, 2011

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.

Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1995. My tastings are based on MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not available for re-tasting.

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

1. Chalone Monterey County Chardonnay 2009: woodsy, affordable, not as elegant as their regular chardonnay, nut priced to sell. 13.5% ABV. +80226, $16.95, QPR: 90.

2. Gold Ring Chardonnay 2009 Mendocino: crisp, slight hint of vanilla and wood tones, easy drinking. Organic. +239442, $16.95, QPR: 89.

3. Lafond SRH Chardonnay 2007 Santa Rita Hills Santa Barbara: nicely aged and matured, ripe and ready, well-integrated tropical fruit and wood tones. Finishes dry. +998641, $19.95, QPR: 90.

4. Brooks Amycas 2008 Oregon: decent priced aromatic white wine blend, crisp and floral from pinot gris and blanc, gewurz, chardonnay, muscat and riesling. 13.1% ABV. +239079, $16.95, QPR: 89.

5. Mil Piedras Viognier 2010 Mendoza: lightly aromatic, 13% ABV, lemons on crisp finish. +240168, $11.95, QPR: 89.

6. Fairhall Downs Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Marlborough: 13.5% ABV. A rich, concentrated and lingering savvy. +990580, $17.95, QPR: 89.

7. Cave de Hoen Vieilles Vignes Pinot Gris 2009 Alsace: spicy, full-bodied, lingering finish. 12.5% ABV. Medium-dry. +224261, $17.95, QPR: 89.

8. Joseph Cattin pinot Blanc 2009 Alsace: Gold Medalist, orchard fruit, long lifted finish. 12% ABV. +224642, $13.95, QPR: 89.

9. Rene Mure Signature Gewurztraminer 2009 Alsace: off-dry on mid-palate, long lingering finish, whopping 14% ABV. +61218, $17.95, QPR: 90.

10. Muga Barrel Fermented White 2010 Rioja: rich, buttery without the toast, driven by new French oak barrels. Food wine. 13% ABV. +958736, $15.95, QPR: 90.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

1. Cristobal 1492 Oak Reserve Shiraz 2008 Mendoza: intense Euro style of syrah, 14% ABV, great price. +236133, $13.95, QPR: 89.

2. Chateau de Panigon Medoc: says "Bordeaux" to me, that hard-grained mix of cassis, plums and wood on the mid-palate. +230367, $16.95, QPR: 89.

3. Chateau Toumilon 2003 Graves: nicely aged, at its peak (prunes not plums), value lies in its age. +177030, $19.95, QPR: 89.

4. Domaine La Croix Belle Syrah 2009 IGT Cotes de Thongue: the south of France is discovering that you can make good wines OUTSIDE of AC rules. This wine has a great syrah hit, modest price, 13.5% ABV. A real winner, buy it all soonest. +160150, $12.95, QPR: 92+

5. Les Celettes 2009 Cotes du Rhone: great blend of mocha, red fruit, smoke, some caramel. Fab price for 13.5% ABV. +235010, $13.95, QPR: 90.

6. Villa Medoro Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2008: NA style and appeal of fleshy fruit. But a long finish for food. 13.5% ABV. +242321, $15.95, QPR: 89.  

7. Cantine Cipressi Rumen Molise Rosso 2007: blend of Monte d'Abruzzo and merlot, black fruit and herbs all the way, a bargain wine, 14% ABV, food or sip. +222646, $14.95, QPR: 89.

8. Mas Foraster Josep Foraster Crianca 2006 Conca de Barbera Spain: a nifty wine from the nether regions of Spain, NA style, nicely aged, very fruity and enjoyable, 13.5% ABV. +218321, $13.95.

 

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10 markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1. Eberle Estate Chardonnay 2009 Paso Robles, +115964, $22.95 retail.

2. Jean Pabiot et Fils Domaine des Fines Caillottes Pouilly-Fume 2009, +695908, $22.95.

3. Southbrook Triomphe Cabernet/Merlot 2007 Niagara-on-the-Lake, +172080, $22.95.

4. Star Lane Astral Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Santa Ynez Valley Santa Barbara, +239509, $49.95.

5. Pirramimma Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 McLaren Vale, +730374, $24.95.

6. Hegarty Chamans No. 1 Syrah/Carignan 2005 Minervois, +250605, $24.95

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

Aug 16/11: Some new Ontario wines found on a FAM tour to Niagara

The Time and Date: Tuesday, August 16, 2011   8AM to 6:30 PM

The Event: FAM bus tour of Niagara Peninsula wineries, supported by the Wine Council of Ontario.

The Venue: five wineries in Niagara – Pondview, Colaneri, Good Earth, Rosewood, Stoney Ridge.

The Target Audience: Wine Writers Circle of Canada plus some guests, about 16 in all.

The Availability/Catalogue: most wines we tasted are only at the winery. Orders can be placed at websites www.pondviewwinery.com, www.rosewoodwine.com, www.goodearthfoodandwine.com, www.stoneyridge.com, and www.colaneriwines.com.

The Quote/Background: Every year the WWCC goes somewhere in Ontario and looks in at WCO member wineries. This year it was back to Niagara: two before lunch, one at lunch, and two after lunch. It was long but unlike other years not grueling. Each winery gave us a talk on micro-history and some recent events and awards. More details can be found at their websites. Tastings were led by winemakers and/or owners.

The Wines: Quite an impressive haul; the wines of Niagara get better and better each year. Of note are the Colaneri wines: most of them use appassimento (grape shriveling) and French oak aging for added complexity. All grape wines here are, of course, VQA.

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Colaneri Insiemi 2009 VQA, $34.95 Cabernet Sauvignon (100% appassimento), merlot, and syrah blend. 400 cases.

-Pondview Gewurztraminer 2010, $24.95

-Pondview Bella Terra Cabernet Franc 2009, $28 Double Gold ACWC 2011

-Stoney Ridge Excellence Chardonnay 2009, $32 ISD Oct 29/11 +254243

-Stoney Ridge Excellence Pinot Noir 2009, $29 Classics Oct 25/11 +254250

-Colaneri Cavallone Pinot Grigio 2010, $25 French barrel-aged, 20% appassimento

-Colaneri Mistera Gewurztraminer 2010, $25  30% appassimento, French barrel aging

-Colaneri Paese Chardonnay 2009, $34.95 60% new French oak

-Colaneri Unita Cabernet Franc 2009, $25

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-The Good Wine Dry Riesling 2010 Lincoln Lakeshore, $20

-The Good Wine Rose 2010 Lincoln Lakeshore, $18  [cabernet franc]

-Pondview Gewurztraminer/Riesling 2010, $14  [51/49 split] 2009 at Vintages now

-Pondview Chardonnay 2010, $17

-Rosewood Natalie's Sussreserve Riesling 2009 Beamsville Bench Renaceau Vineyard, $15  Vintages Jan 2012 +164483

-Rosewood Chardonnay Reserve Natural [Wild] Ferment 2010 Beamsville Bench Renaceau Vineyard, $28

-Rosewood Pinot Noir 2009 Twenty Mile Bench Wismer Vineyard, $20 +112177 Vintages

-Rosewood Merlot 2009 Niagara Escarpment, $20 Vintages Jan 2012 +167772

-Rosewood Cabernet Franc Barrel #86 2009 Beamsville Bench Renaceau Vineyard, $36  [25 cases total = I barrel]

-Rosewood Mead Royale 2008, $18 for half-litre. It would have been great with the Good Earth's dessert (see below). Oak aged.

-Stoney Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Niagara Kasper Vineyard, $16.95 Vintages October 29 2011 +513705

-Stoney Ridge Warren Classic Pinot Noir 2009 Niagara, $13.95 LCBO +156125

-Stoney Ridge Warren Classic Cabernet Franc 2009, $18

-Colaneri Visione Syrah 2009, $30 50% appassimento, Moldovan oak

-Colaneri Pensiere Merlot 2009, $29.95

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-The Good Wine Chardonnay 2008 Lincoln Lakeshore, $19

-The Good Wine Medium-Dry Riesling 2009 Twenty Mile Bench, $20

-The Good Wine Pinot Noir 2009 Lincoln Lakeshore, $25

-Pondview Cabernet Franc Rose 2010, $15  +241802 LCBO

-Pondview Pinot Grigio 2010, $17.95

-Rosewood Semillon Beamsville Bench Renaceau Vineyard, $18

-Rosewood Long Rows White Blend 2010 [chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, Semillon], $12 licensees only.

-Stoney Ridge Simply White 2009 Niagara, $13.95 LCBO +234476 [95% chardonnay]

-Colaneri Fumoso Bianco Sauvignon Blanc 2010, $24.95 appassimento, 15.6% ABV !

-Colaneri Virtuoso Pinot Noir 2009, $34

 

The Food: We had a marvelous lunch at The Good Earth Food and Wine Co. with wines by Andrea Glass and food by Chef Michael Pasto, one of three chefs working the establishment. Foods and wine were paired. Apps were goat's cheese and chive omelette (chardonnay), pork rillette with quince jam (dry riesling), and shrimp cake with sriracha (med-dry riesling). First main was sockeye salmon with corn salsa and tomato (rose) followed by grilled lamb sirloin and quinoa with goat cheddar (pinot noir). Dessert was an enticing peach and late summer berry crumble (no wine but would have been great with mead).

The Downside: constant traveling all day

The Upside: tasting Ontario appassimento wines

The Contact Person: Magdalena@winesofontario.org

The Marketing Effectiveness/Execution of the Event(numerical grade): 92.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

Dean Tudor, Ryerson University Journalism Professor Emeritus
Treasurer, Wine Writers' Circle of Canada
Look it up and you'll remember it; screw it up and you'll never forget it.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com

THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOK...

...is one of the hottest trends in cookbooks.
Actually, they've been around for many years, but never in such
proliferation. They are automatic sellers, since the book can be
flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up being a
celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up
on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans
of the chef and/or the restaurant and/or the media personality. Many of
the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the
restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books,
special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu.
Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But
because most of these books are American, they use only US volume
measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric
equivalents, but more often there is not. I'll try to point this out.
The usual shtick is "favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks".
There is also PR copy on "demystifying ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf
also includes much use of the magic phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as
if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from
readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes
(not necessarily from these books) don't seem to work, but how could
that be? They all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many
books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with
tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life
in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding
about. The celebrity books, with well-known chefs or entertainers, seem
to have too much self-involvement and ego. And, of course, there are a
lot of food shots, verging on gastroporn. The endorsements are from
other celebrities in a magnificent case of logrolling. If resources are
cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some
companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them
altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books –

 

 

 

12. GRILLING WITH SALMING (HarperCollins, 2011, 136 pages, ISBN 978-1-
44340-487-7, $24.99 CAN paper covers) is by Borje Salming, the first
European to be inducted into the Hockey Hall of Fame (1996), for his
work with the Toronto Maple Leafs. He has returned to Sweden, and a few
years ago he was persuaded to write a grill and BBQ book for a Swedish
publisher. This is the 2011 reprint of that 2010 book. At first, I
thought it was "Grilling with Salmon", which is one of my fave foods.
There are, though, two salmon recipes here: kebab skewers and a whole
side. It's is useful book and it should trade in very well with its
celebrity name. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both
metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of
equivalents. There are quite a few pix of Salming (he is, after all,
the celebrity of record here) and some memoir-ish material. Otherwise,
it seems to be a pretty standard grill book (see other reviews on this
page): grilled corn, bacon-wrapped chicken drumsticks, balsamic-
marinated lamb chops with roasted garlic, chorizo-stuffed chicken
breast, plus veggies and skewers and marinades. There are four grilled
desserts: pineapple, fruit salad, peaches, apples. Quality/price
rating: 84.

 

 

 

13. WELL DRESSED; salad dressings (Gibbs Smith, 2011, 96 pages, ISBN
978-1-4236-1766-2, $16.99 US hard covers) is by Jeff Keys, owner of
Vintage Restaurant in Sun Valley, Idaho. He has also authored a
cookbook featuring his restaurant. Here's a variety of quality salad
dressings, some of them complex. He's arranged them all (about 70) by
type: vinaigrettes, claw/creamy dressings, and mix-in dressings. There
is even an "international" chapter which are all vinaigrettes such as
Asian golden dragon beet vinaigrette, Spanish sherry vinaigrette,
chili-lime vinaigrette, and wasabi vinaigrette. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is a table of
metric equivalents. For the cooking completist and salad lover.
Quality/price rating: 88.

 

 

 

14. MIETTE; recipes from San Francisco's most charming pastry shop
(Chronicle Books, 2011, 223 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-7504-2 $27.50 US
hard covers) is by Meg Ray, chef and owner of Miette. The clever
package includes scalloped book pages, which take some getting used to
when flipping. Miette only does spectacular cakes, tarts, pastries,
candies and creams. There are 100 recipes plus variations here,
accompanied by 50 dramatic photos. There's a sources list (mainly US
west coast) and a tools list. Preparations have their ingredients
listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric
equivalents. Try coconut mousse cake, bittersweet ganache cake, lemon
tea cake, princess cake, and other flights of fancy. A nice book for
inspiration, but of course it should be useful for Miette's fans in the
Bay Area. Quality/price rating: 84.

 

 

 

15. SOUTHERN BISCUITS (Gibbs Smith, 2011, 216 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-
2176-8, $21.99 US hard covers) is by cookbook author and cooking TV
host (over 300 shows) Nathalie Dupree. She lives in Charleston, South
Carolina, and specializes in southern cooking. Her co-author is fellow
cookbook writer and cooking TV producer, Cynthia Graubart. This single
ingredient cookbook is a boon to biscuit lovers everywhere. There are
"easy" biscuits, traditional biscuits such as beaten biscuits,
embellished biscuits, and some dessert biscuits. The flesh out the
book, there are some others: cheese straws, blue cornmeal biscuits,
sausage pinwheels, pancakes and waffles. But no gluten-free preps.
Leftovers are dealt with by breaded tomatoes, biscuit panzanella
salads, sausage stuffing, casseroles, etc. There are also 16 preps for
sauces, gravies, jams and jellies. Preparations have their ingredients
listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is a table of metric
equivalents. Quality/price rating: 89.

 

16. HEALTHY STARTS HERE! 140 recipes that will make you fell great
(Whitecap, 2011, 348 pages, ISBN 978-1-77050-039-6, $29.95 soft covers)
is by Mairlyn Smith, who has been a cooking TV host and celebrity (such
as Harrowsmith Country Life TV). She's authored two other cookbooks.
The book should sell well in the Canadian comedy community since Smith
is an alumna of Second City. She has log rolling from other comedians
(Eastwood, James, McGrath, Mochrie). Indeed, she does write with a
comedic style. Anyway, this lifestyle guide focuses on busy families
with classic and contemporary takes on healthy food such as grilled
garlic shrimp. It is arranged by ingredient, from apples, through
beans, berries, greens, nuts, chocolate, and yogurt. There's also
advice on throwing parties and how to give up junk foods. The four
menus (with recipes) are one per season, taking advantage of the local
foods available. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both
metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of
equivalents. The bibliography gives us an opportunity to read about the
healthy benefits of foods. Try quinoa tabbouleh, January salad, Asian
chicken and watercress soup, chicken-coconut soup, or broccoli with
peanut sauce. Quality/price rating: 88.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

* THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...

...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback
reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher
a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will
reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will
rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text
while keeping the focus tight. Here are some recent "re-editions"...

 

CUISINE AND CULTURE; a history of food and people. 3rd edition(John
Wiley & Sons, 2011, 436 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-40371-5, $40 US paper
covers) is by Linda Civitello, M.A (History) who teaches food history.
This is the third edition (the second was in 2008); the first won a
2003 Gourmand World Cookbook Award. The basic theme is how history
shapes our current diet. The scope is universal, from pre-history to
modern times, the grand sweep being a good overview. For the most part,
each chapter is an anecdotal survey of a time period and/or region.
Later, closer to our new millennium, the focus becomes Western, and
then in the 20th century, it is mostly North American. This is a useful
textbook for culinary arts courses, to give some sense of history to
the preparation of food. Accompanying the narration are some historical
drawings and reproductions. There are plenty of sidebars for historical
tidbits, as well as pronunciation guides to French and Italian words.
The appendix has a cookbook chronology, from Apicius (1st century AD)
through La Varenne, Beeton, Escoffier, Davidson), plus notes on why
these books are important. There are sample menus and historical
recipes, and the writing style is lively. The book concludes with an
extensive bibliography, footnotes, and index. New to this edition (25
more pages) are materials on Norwegian, Ethiopian, Canadian and Mayan
foods. Detail has been expanded for Japanese, Ancient Greek and Roman,
and regional Indian and African customs. Foods and food media coverage
of modern times have been updated. And the price has increased by a US
nickel. Quality/Price rating: 90.

 

RISOTTO; delicious recipes for Italy's classic rice dish (Ryland Peters
& Small, 2011; distr. T.Allen, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-097-4,
$24.95 US hard covers) is by Maxine Clark, a cooking teacher and writer
who specializes in Italian food. She has also written other such books
for Ryland in the past. It was originally published in 2005, as
"Risotto with vegetables, seafood, meat and more". Beginning with the
basics (white risotto step-by-step, broths), she continues with
sections on food by ingredients: there is a vegetarian section, but of
course risottos deal mostly with cheese, egg, poultry, meats, and
seafood. There are 50 recipes here, including a few desserts.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
And there is a listing of useful UK and US websites for mail orders.
Good for home cooks, or for those who only want the basics. Try fennel
and black olive risotto, pesto risotto, chicken liver risotto, or
beetroot risotto. Each recipe is illustrated with a lush presentation
photo. Quality/Price Ratio: 87.

 

FOOD FOR FAMILY & FRIENDS; simply delicious recipes for stylish
entertaining at home (Ryland, Peters & Small, 2011, 192 pages, ISBN
978-1-84975-123-0, $27.95 US hard covers) has about 130 recipes plus a
wealth of ideas for home entertaining. The text and preps come from six
Ryland writers in the stable: mostly Ross Dobson (75 preps), Tonia
George and Fiona Beckett (about 20 recipes apiece). Preparations have
their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no
table of metric equivalents. There's material in "setting the scene",
how to prepare and serve drinks and wine, how to feed a crowd and be
effortless, plus brunch dishes, nibbles and small plates, desserts and
cheeses. Good advice, nicely laid out, excellent photography, and good
leading. Try some smoked trout fatoush, mushroom risotto, truffled egg
linguine, tomato-bell pepper-mozzarella tart, or white chocolate pots.
Quality/Price rating: 86.

 

-MARTHA STEWART'S NEW PIES AND TARTS (Clarkson Potter, 2011, 352 pages,
ISBN 978-0-307-40509-8, $24.99 US paper covers) is from the editors of
Martha Stewart Living. It was first published in 1995, so this is its
major revision after 16 years. There are 150 preps here for classic and
modern faves. Some are savoury and some are sweet, some are complex and
some are simple, some are family-oriented while others are useful for
entertaining. The book was an instant "classic" in 1995, and remains so
today, with its chapters on the classic pies (pecan, tare tatin, apple,
lemon meringue), the free-form (pear tart, red-wine poached prune tart,
apple butter hand pies), sleek (sour cherry clafoutis), dreamy (banana
cream, key lime), rustic (rhubarb crumble), layered (chocolate pear
tart), dainty, artful, holiday, and savoury (14 winners here). And of
course there is a section on the basics. Excellent photography, layout
and instructions. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
But I do love a book with French leaves. Quality/price rating: 89.

 

-EASY SMOOTHIES & JUICES; simply delicious recipes for goodness in a
glass (Ryland Peters & Small, 2011, 240 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-109-4,
$19.95 US hard covers) is a publisher's book package written by eight
food writers, although something like 45% came from Elsa Petersen-
Schepelern and 45% from Louise Pickford. The 150 preps are arranged in
loose order, such as fruit smoothies, juices and coolers, dairy shakes,
veggie juice, and a section on "fruit with a kick" which uses alcohol.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there is no table of metric equivalents. The photography is first-
rate, but I do think that they went overboard with it: these are just
drinks, not complicated dishes for presentation. Nevertheless, a useful
collection for summertime: roasted peaches & cream, watermelon gin,
cider apple slushie, peach and strawberry sangria, almond lassi, and
chai vanilla milkshake. Quality/price rating: 85.

 

-BUNGALOW KITCHENS (Gibbs-Smith, 2000, 2011; distr. Raincoast, 160
pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-0753-3, $19.99 US paper covers) was written by
Jane Powell for publication in 2000. It is a great book for those
interested in the history of American kitchens. Bungalow here means
mainly Arts and Crafts movement homes. Powell has also written
splendidly on Bungalow Bathrooms, Bungalow: Details (Interior and
Exterior), Arts & Crafts Home, and Linoleum. The bibliography stops at
1999, but the 11 page resources list has many websites listed (so
presumably it is more up-to-date). This section has names and addresses
for appliance, flooring, windows, ventilation, walls, lighting,
hardware, plus museums and restoration consultants. The photographs (by
Linda Svendsen) are stunning: many remind me of my own bungalow
upbringing. A good book for the culinary history buff. Quality/price
rating: 92.

 

-CANADIAN LIVING BEST RECIPES EVER; fresh, fun and tasty tested-till-
perfect recipes from the hit show. (Transcontinental Books, 2011;
distr. Random House Canada, 352 pages, ISBN 978-0-9813938-4-1, $25.95
US paper covers) is from the CBC TV show "Best Recipes Ever". Host Kary
Osmond presents three daily recipes from the database files of Canadian
Living magazine. This book gathers up some of the best 300 or so preps
from the first two seasons of the show. They've been grouped together
by category, but most are meant to be quick and easy and low budget
cookery. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. The
book opens with "beat the clock" fast prepared food, followed by "meat-
lover" mains, international cuisine, some lighter fare, some party
fare, eggs and brunch, and then some family food. For example, roasted
salmon with prosciutto has its ingredients in bold-face, with explicit
instructions, a nutritional analysis, and some tips on technique or
substituting. I think that I would also like prep and cooking times to
be indicated. Certainly, there is enough room on the page for these.
Not every dish has a photo, and sometimes there are two preps on a
page. This is worth your consideration as a goof-proof quick and easy
cookbook for the harried. Quality/price rating: 89.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

Aug 10/11 tasting Phelps Creek Vineyards of Oregon

The Time and Date: Wednesday, August 11, 2011   4 PM to 5:30 PM

The Event: Wine writers' tasting of Phelps Creek Vineyards wines (Hood River, Oregon) with Robert Morus, President and Director of Winegrowing.

The Venue: JAMcafé, Carlton Street

The Target Audience: wine writers

The Availability/Catalogue: wines are available by private order or consignment through the agent, Glen-Ward Wines (www.glenwardwines.com)

The Quote/Background: The estate of 30 acres produces some 8 or so wines, mostly Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays in the Columbia Gorge AVA.

The Wines: The 2008 Brimstone Red blend ($24.95) was not available for tasting; it's mostly syrah, cabernet and merlot, 13.9% ABV.

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Phelps Creek Vineyards Estate Reserve Chardonnay Columbia Gorge 2009, $34.06. 14.2% ABV. 250 cases.

-Phelps Creek Vineyards Oak Ridge Gewurztraminer Columbia Gorge 2009, $24.57, 14.4% ABV, organic grapes, 20% BF, 1.4% RS. 350 cases.

-Phelps Creek Vineyards Estate Reserve Pinot Noir Columbia Gorge 2008, $49.71, 13.5% ABV.

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Phelps Creek Vineyards Unoaked Chardonnay Columbia Gorge 2009, $24.62, 14.1% ABV. 300 cases.

-Phelps Creek Vineyards Hellfire White Blend Columbia Gorge 2008, $21, 13.5% ABV. Pinot gris, chardonnay, gewurztraminer, riesling, sauvignon blanc. 800 cases.

-Phelps Creek Vineyards Pinot Noir Columbia Gorge 2008, $34.06, 13.5% ABV.

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Phelps Creek Vineyards Le Petit Pinot Noir Columbia Gorge 2010, $27.35, carbonic maceration like Beaujolais. 500 cases.

 

The Food: bread and cheese. JAMcafe was serving canapé/tapas with the wines later in the evening.

The Contact Person: malcolmc@sentex.ca

The Marketing Effectiveness/Execution of the Event(numerical grade): 89.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

* FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH! *

 MODERNIST CUISINE; the Art and Science of Cooking (The Cooking Lab,
2011, 2438 pages in six volumes, ISBN 978-0-98276100-7, retails for
$700 CAD, but is $529 at Amazon.Ca, hardcover) is by Nathan Myhrvold,
Chris Young, and Maxime Bilet. The latter two are associated with The
Fat Duck restaurant (Blumenthal's place, but see log rolling below) and
The Cooking Lab. Myhrvold was with Microsoft but left to become a
stagier and then a chef. There's some heavy log rolling here,
principally from Harold McGee who has been over this same territory
many times himself, Ferran Adria (ditto for the molecular gastronomy),
Tim Zagat, and Heston Blumenthal. Where do begin? Some of the facts:
2438 pages over six volumes, 1.1 million words, 3,216 photographs, 1522
recipes, 72 chefs worldwide who advised, and five years to produce. The
US price is $625 retail, and is sold on Amazon for $461.32, with free
shipping for the 50 pounds or so of weight in the box. The book is a
mixture of physics and biology and cooking processes. Ecco
(HarperCollins) published a similar book in 2005 – El Bulli: 1998-2002
-- but it retailed for $490 for only 496 pages plus a CD-ROM. Combine
that book with any McGee, and you've got virtually the same material,
albeit a bit pricey. The six volumes here introduce "parametric"
recipes which allow for dozens of variations by changing the
ingredients and quantities. The third volume is on meats, seafood and
plant matter. The fourth volume concerns thickeners, gels, emulsions,
and foams. The fifth has plated dish recipes. And the sixth is a
kitchen manual. There are many gadgets which will also need to be
acquired if you are to do a lot of these recipes.
Audience and level of use: those who are truly interested in cooking,
and wish to spend a lot of money on the books.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: There are 300 pages of new
recipes for plated dishes, many of them contributed by the log rollers.
The downside to this book: it all weighs 21 kilos, and the recipes can
be challenging. Also, the special purpose equipment can be expensive
for home use, but (of course) written off and used many times in a
professional setting.
The upside to this book: depth of detail.
Quality/Price Rating: 90.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOK...

...is one of the hottest trends in cookbooks.
Actually, they've been around for many years, but never in such
proliferation. They are automatic sellers, since the book can be
flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up being a
celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up
on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans
of the chef and/or the restaurant and/or the media personality. Many of
the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the
restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books,
special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu.
Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But
because most of these books are American, they use only US volume
measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric
equivalents, but more often there is not. I'll try to point this out.
The usual shtick is "favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks".
There is also PR copy on "demystifying ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf
also includes much use of the magic phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as
if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from
readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes
(not necessarily from these books) don't seem to work, but how could
that be? They all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many
books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with
tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life
in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding
about. The celebrity books, with well-known chefs or entertainers, seem
to have too much self-involvement and ego. And, of course, there are a
lot of food shots, verging on gastroporn. The endorsements are from
other celebrities in a magnificent case of logrolling. If resources are
cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some
companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them
altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books –

 

-BABYCAKES COVERS THE CLASSICS; gluten-free vegan recipes from donuts
to snickerdoodles (Clarkson Potter, 2011, 144 pages, ISBN 978-0-307-
71830-3, $25 US hard covers) is by Erin McKenna, chef and owner of
BabyCakes NYC (also in Los Angeles). Despite being featured in
"hundreds of print and online media outlets" and being a featured guest
on many TV shows (including some food shows), she has log rolling from
Mark Bittman and two others. This is her second book, with 50 preps of
more of the same favourites – all created without gluten, dairy, eggs
or refined sugar. There's a primer on key ingredients and tools,
followed by some rules of substitutions, such as converting gluten-free
recipes to spelt recipes, converting vegan sugar-based recipes to
agave-sweetened recipes, and substituting for bean flour. Preparations
have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is
no table of metric equivalents. Typical are pancakes, gingerbread
pancakes, honey buns, granola, vegetable tart, sugar cookies, and the
like. The book is a boon for those who crave gluten-free sweets.
Quality/price rating: 89.

 

-YOU CAN TRUST A SKINNY COOK (John Wiley & Sons, 2011, 272 pages, ISBN
978-0-470-87635-0, $29.95 US hard covers) is by Allison Fishman, food
writer and cooking school owner, plus hostess of two TV food shows
("Cook Yourself Thin" and "Home Made Simple"). Here she continues on
the themes of real food for real diets. The first step is to cook for
yourself: save money and save preservatives. And you have portion
control. Among the 140 preps here are dishes for all courses and times
of the day, from breakfast to late night snacks. Preparations have
their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no
table of metric equivalents. For example, there's breakfast bread
pudding with peaches and blueberries. She indicates prep time (30
minutes), total time (2 hours), servings and sizes, along with tips to
reduce the calorie count even further, plus nutrition information per
serving (listed in metric, while the ingredients are listed in
avoirdupois). I had trouble reading the list of ingredients because the
typeface was average size but in soft, screened blue ink. It doesn't
photocopy, and is that what the publisher wanted? Major ingredients are
highlighted in the index. The layout may need a re-think. Try also
seared duck breast with ginger bok choy, pot of mussels, slow cooker
pulled pork, Mediterranean tuna salad. Quality/price rating: 84.

 

-NOW EAT THIS! DIET (Grand Central Life & Style, 2011; distr. Hachette,
300 pages, ISBN 978-0-446-58449-4, $22.99 US soft covers) is by Rocco
DiSpirito, who previously wrote NOW EAT THIS! last year. He's a Beard
winner who had what was probably the best ever "reality" restaurant
show, "The Restaurant" on NBC. This is his seventh book, and most of
the recipes in all of his books have some sort of Italian theme. This
cookbook is one of the few being published without any log rolling:
could it be that nobody wants to roll with Rocco? Here's the shtick:
take some existing foods that North Americans all like to eat, such as
brownies or fried chicken, and replicate the recipe with zero bad
carbs, zero bad fats, zero sugar, and maximum flavour. He cuts a
portion of lemon pepper shrimp from 593 calories to 283 calories.
Mushroom lasagna is reduced from 850 calories to 388. The book is in
two parts: the first is the diet primer, the second is the recipes. The
prep arrangement is by course, from appetizer to dessert. His larder is
revealing; these products are the keys to reduction. He calls for a
pantry with cauliflower, corn starch, Dijon mustard, egg whites or egg
substitutes, fresh squeezed lemons, Greek yoghurt, low-sodium and low-
fat chicken broth, non-stick cooking spray, Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese,
reduced-fat blue cheese, salsa, whole wheat panko bread crumbs, whole
wheat pasta, and more. Each recipe has a nutritional table, including
calories before and calories after the changeover. I am sorry to report
that, and needless to say, many items tried did not have the flavours
expected – because they had reduced fat and sugars. But others may
disagree, and prefer this book. It is worth a try. Preparations have
their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no
metric table of equivalents. Quality/Price rating: 82.

 

-CRISTINA FERRARE'S BIG BOWL OF LOVE (Sterling Epicure, 2011, 302
pages, ISBN 978-1-4027-8644-0, $30 US hard covers) accompanies the
Oprah Winfrey Network's TV food show of the same name. There are 150
preps here, with an emphasis on family food and good use of leftovers.
It's a book for her fans, arranged by course from apps to sweets with
ideas for pantry-larder-staple items. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table
of metric equivalents. Good layout, with a pix of the finished plate,
bold face for the ingredients listing, and a range of sevings normally
from 4 to 6. Classic family fare includes roast beef, pan-seared
salmon, grilled veggies, roasted chicken wraps, and Tuscan bread soup.
Quality/price rating: 85.

 

-JUST GRILL THIS (John Wiley & Sons, 2011, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-
46793-0, $19.95 US soft covers) is by TV chef, Sam the Cooking Guy (Sam
Zien, a twelve-time Emmy Award winner). These are basic grill works,
simply done, and great for the novice. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table
of metric equivalents. There's the usual primer on equipment, larder,
techniques, rubs and sauces. Preps cover apps, "things not normally
grilled" (e.g. grilled baguette French toast, chicken on a beer can,
grilled hearts of romaine, sesame grilled meatballs), sandwiches,
veggies, meats, burgers and dogs, and grilling inside the house. There
a fair amount of sass here, and way too many pictures of Zien himself.
But it is a useful book for the beginner. Quality/Price rating: 84.

 

-EVA'S KITCHEN (Clarkson Potter, 2011, 224 pages, ISBN 978-0-307-71933-
1, $29.99 US hard covers) is by Eva Longoria (with Marah Stets), the
actress (not the baseball player) who also co-owns two steakhouses with
a Latin flair. Despite all this, she still needed six log rollers
(Bobby Flay, Mario "Ubiquitous" Batali, Giada de Laurentiis, her resto
partner Todd English, and Rick Bayless). The book will sell anyway,
based on her name, the use of "cooking with love for family and
friends", and the US Southwest themes. The range is from apps to
desserts and drinks. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Try Crock-pot Cuban ropa vieja, parmesan summer squash, chili con
carne, and grilled shrimp. And there are plenty of pictures of
Eva…Quality/price rating: 83.

 

NORDIC BAKERY COOKBOOK (Ryland, Peters & Small, 2011; distr. T. Allen,
144 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-096-7, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Miisa
Mink, a partner in the bakery. The Nordic Bakery opened in Soho, London
in 2007, and should open in New York City in 2011. The emphasis from
the resto is an offering of dark rye bread, cinnamon buns, and coffees.
Scandinavian cookery has been touted as wholesome and comforting, with
its emphasis on rye flour, oats and barley. So first up, then, is a
whole section on breads, followed by savory pastries, cakes, sweet
pastries, tarts and cookies. Preparations have their ingredients listed
in avoirdupois measurements, but there is a table of metric
equivalents. The book is further distinguished by the usual high
photographic standards of the finished plates. Typical preps include
rye bread, gravad lax, rye baguettes, open faced sandwiches of many
kinds, carrot and oat rolls, karelian pies from Finland, and anchovy
twists. Quality/price rating: 86.

 

 

 

SNOG HEALTHY TREATS COOKBOOK (Ryland Peters and Small, 2011, 144 pages,
ISBN 978-1-84975-080-6, $24.95 US hard covers) is from a healthy food
store, Snog Pure Frozen Yogurt, which started in London UK in 2008, and
has since spread. The more than 50 recipes here are for foods served at
Snog, and embrace frozen yogurts, smoothies, gluten-free baked goods,
and raw foods. Snog uses organic no-fat yogurt and agave nectar (low-GI
sweetener). They have the basic prep for home use (natural, chocolate,
and yummy green tea) followed by the various permutations such as
pomegranate and vanilla pod frozen yogurt and apricot cardamom frozen
yogurt. The gluten-free section includes brownies, hazelnut cake,
avocado cream pie, peach tartlets, and apricot macaroons. For drinks,
try orange agua fresca with beet swirl or passion fruit mango kombucha.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Great
pictures too. Quality/price rating: 89.

 

MASTERCLASS; make your home cooking easier (Collins, 2011, 224 pages,
ISBN 9789-0-00-729472-5, $39.99 Canadian hard covers) is by James
Martin who has a success television cooking show in the UK called
"Saturday Kitchen". These are the essential preps for classic dishes:
beef bourguignon, chicken curry, shepherd's pie (with lamb), pistou
soup, fish and chips, sponge cake, lemon curd tart, potato gnocchi, leg
of lamb steaks, etc. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both
metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of
equivalents. This is an engaging, personable book, with some nifty
spicing and flavour ideas. With its solid techniques and recipe
descriptions, it is useful as a first book for beginning cooks who wish
to "master" the classics. Quality/price rating: 86.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

New Summertime Wines, BBQ and Patio

 

1. LORON et Fils Bourgogne Blanc Chardonnay 2009, +167155 General List,
$12.95: in a new package and a new vintage. This straightforward
Chardonnay is near-perfect for summer patios and food activity. It
seems to go with everything I could throw at it on Canada Day.
Balanced, with nuances of lemon-apple minerality and even some vanilla. Nice long finish for a wine at this price point. Twist top, 13% ABV.

 

2. LORON et Fils Beau! Beaujolais 2009, +231811 General List, $11.95:
medium balance all the way, easy quaffer, fruity smooth, lingering
finish but few tannins. Best as a sipper. 12.5% ABV.

 

3. Underdog White 2009 VQA Niagara, +248476, $13.95: Mike Weir has
joined the Ontario blended white wine sweepstakes with this engaging
white from sauvignon blanc, riesling, auxerrois, and gewurztraminer
grapes from production partners Chateau des Charmes. Summer sippin' and
quaffing, expect apples, lemons, some peaches and a finishing acid. All profits go to supporting Canadian children in need.

 

4. Underdog Red 2009 VQA Niagara, +248484, $13.95: Mike Weir has joined

the Ontario blended red wine sweepstakes with this engaging blend from
cabernets franc and sauvignon, merlot, pinot and gamay noir grapes from
production partners Chateau des Charmes. Summer sippin' and quaffing,
expect soft, approachable red fruit tones and lower tannins with a
finishing acid. Profits go to supporting Canadian children in need.

 

5. Chateau des Charmes Gewurztraminer 2008 St. David's Bench VQA,
$19.95 Vintages +453472: from 15 year old vines, done up in stainless
steel, 12.5% ABV, Alsatian style (concentrated fruit, off-dry on the
mid-palate, spicy and occasionally bitter finish). There's a little but
some bitterness on this finish.

 

6. Chateau des Charmes Cabernet Franc 2007 St. David's Bench VQA,
$25.95 Vintages +453415: 13.5% ABV, 10 months in French oak, maturing
nicely and loaded with black fruits and spices. Best in Show Award at
the 2010 Royal Agricultural Winter Fair in Toronto.

 

7. Pillitteri Estates Chardonnay 2010 www.why23.com VQA Niagara,
General List +64790, $9.95: one of the last remaining VQA wines for
under $10. Unoaked status. Expect melons, lemons and crisp apples.

 

8. Pillitteri Estates Straight Up White 2010 VQA Niagara, $12.95
+219097 General List: this is Pillitteri's entry in the blended white
wine market, 12% ABV, SC=2. Nifty little package, if a little wordy on
the label. Expect off-dry orchard fruit tones, some tropicality.

 

9. Pillitteri Estates Straight Up Red 2009 VQA Niagara, $12.95 +219089
General List: this is Pillitteri's entry in the blended red wine
market, 12.5% ABV. It is a blend of three grapes. Nifty little package,
if a little wordy on the label. Expect soft and velvet tones, useful
for patio reds. Wineries appear to be evenly split as to whether to
reveal the grapes or not (either on the label or on the website), and
if revealed, the proportions (either on the label or on the website).
It's all a game, but it allows the Ontario wineries to cash in on a
fad/trend, and, if successful, to create "field blends" every year.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com