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Wednesday, March 27, 2013

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR MARCH 30, 2013

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR MARCH 30, 2013
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at
http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news
items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at
www.deantudor.com since 1994. My tastings are based on MVC (Modal
Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices
are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does
NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product
consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.
 

======>>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *UNDER* $20
 
Domaine Les Yeuses Les Epices Syrah 2010 IGP Pays d'Oc: it's back, but
another vintage, just as good as ever – even better. Value priced,
great syrah hit of pepper, smoked meat, black fruit, garrigue, black
berries. Perfect accompaniment to horsemeat. I've said virtually the
same things about the last three times this has turned up in Vintages:
the 2007, 2008, 2009, and now the 2010. 13.5% ABV. +177584, $13.95,
QPR: 93.
 
======>>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *OVER* $20
 
Bachelder Saunders Vineyard Chardonnay 2010 VQA Beamsville Bench,
+324103, $44.95 retail.
 
TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Chateau des Charmes Old Vines Riesling 2010 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake:
sharply defined Riesling character, one of the best in Ontario, intense
flavours and body, modest finish. +277228, $16.95, QPR: 89.
2. Rosewood Natalie's Sussreserve Riesling 2010 VQA Niagara: bone dry
finish but soft alluring character on the mid-palate, 11% ABV. +258806,
$14.95, QPR: 89.
3. Gerard Bertrand Reserve Speciale Viognier 2011 IGP Pays d'Oc: not as
aromatic as expected but palate flavours suggest food (first course)
rather than patio. +147975, $15.95, QPR: 89.
4. JeanJean Ormarine Picpoul de Pinet 2011 Coteaux du Languedoc: an OK
price, with nice crisp green apples and tart lemons. First course food.
Twist top. +525287, $12.95, QPR: 89.
5. I Campi Campo Vulcano Soave Classico 2010: delicious intensity for a
soave, full flavours and body for that apple-lemon orchard=type fruit.
12.5% ABV, needs food. +269969, $18.95, QPR: 89.
 
TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Château Agnel Cuvee Philippe Minervois 2009: North American appeal,
14.5% ABV, big, brawny, oak tones dominate the flowers. +309195,
$15.95, QPR: 89.
2. Mon Tauch Les Garrigues Grande Reserve Marselen 2011 IGP Valle du
Torgan: well, it does call a spade a spade, using the word "garrigues"
in its name. But these herbs, at 13.5% ABV, do need another year in
bottle.
3. Librandi Duca Sanfelice Ciro Riserva Rosso 2009 Calabria: I seem to
think that it has been some time since we've seen a Ciro Reserva in
Ontario. The last vintage I recommended was 1988! All from the
gaglioppo grapes: more, sir! Delicious flavours, aging well. +695874,
$15.95, QPR: 89.
4. Luigi Righetti Campolieti Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore
2010: the LCBO's "Ripasso of the month". +695890, $16.95, QPR: 89.
5. Quinta do Penedo 2009 Dao: North American style, ready now,
approachable fruit. 70% Touriga nacional and 30% alfrocheiro. +313676,
$18.95, QPR: 89.
6. Hermanos Pecina Senorio de P. Pecina Crianza 2007 Rioja: very good
oaky complexity, ripe fruit, 13% ABV. Toasty tasty. +313726, $19.95,
QPR: 89.
7. Otazu Premium Cuvee 2007 Navarra: extremely ripe fruit and over-the-
top flavours, dense abstractions and extractions, 14.5% ABV. Some
butteriness. Gold Medalist. +313809, $16.95, QPR: 90.
 
VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.
 
1.The Foreign Affair Riesling 2009 VQA Niagara Peninsula, +127290,
$24.95 retail.
3.Vieil Armand Grand Cru Ollwiller Riesling 2009 Alsace, +315135,
$20.95.
4.Domaine Fouassier Les Grands Groux Sancerre 2010, +267948, $24.95.
6. Versado Reserva Malbec 2009 Mendoza Luan de Cuyo, +316984, $59.95.
7. Caliboro Erasmo 2008 Maule Valley, +311837, $21.95.
8. Château Tauzinat L'Hermitage 2009 Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, +309955,
$29.95.
9. Brigaldara Case Vecie Amarone Della Valpolicella 2007, +247502,
$58.95.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

Monday, March 25, 2013

Bouchard et Fils/Wm Fevre tasting at RCYC, March 12 report

 The Date and Time: Tuesday, March 12, 2013   11 AM to 3 PM

The Event: the annual Bouchard Burgundy tasting

The Venue: RCYC St. George St. Building

The Target Audience: wine media and sommeliers.

The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available for ordering by the six bottle case. There were over 78 of them, although only a third of them were available for tasting today.

The Quote/Background: Champagne Henriot owns Bouchard Pere et Fils and William Fevre Chablis, plus Villa Ponciago Beaujolais – so we were able to taste these producers…The 2011 vintage has been pronounced as a "normal" Burgundy vintage, lighter than both 2010 and 2009.

The Wines:  Here are the 2011 wines on offer. All prices are retail.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Champagne Henriot Brut Souverain NV, $62 - stunning

-Bouchard Pere et Fils Chapelle-Chambertin Cote d'Or Grand Cru 2011, $248

-Bouchard Pere et Fils Beaune Greves Vigne Enfant Jesus Monopole Premier Cru Cote d'Or 2011, $130

-Bouchard Pere et Fils Chambolle Musigny Cote d'Or 2011, $67 – Best Value Red, full and fleshy texture

-Bouchard Pere et Fils Corton Charlemagne Domaine Grand Cru Cote d'Or 2011, $211

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (8890 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Bouchard Pere et Fils Le Corton Domaine Grand Cru Cote d'Or 2011, $149

-Bouchard Pere et Fils Nuits St Georges les Cailles Domaine Cote d'Or Premier Cru 2011, $127

-Bouchard Pere et Fils Pommard Rugiens Domaine Cote d'Or Premier Cru 2011, $105

-Bouchard Pere et Fils Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvee Carnot Domaine Cote d'Or Premier Cru 2011, $97

-Bouchard Pere et Fils Gevrey Chambertin 2011 Cote d'Or, $58

-Bouchard Pere et Fils Chevalier-Montrachet Domaine Grand Cru Cote d'Or 2011, $383

-Bouchard Pere et Fils Beaune Clos Saint-Landry Premier Cru Cote d'Or 2011, $69

-Bouchard Pere et Fils Meursault Genevrieres Premier Cru Cote d'Or 2011, $103

-Bouchard Pere et Fils Puligny Montrachet Cote d'Or 2011, $70

-William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros 2011, $85

-William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Cote de Bougerots 2011, $103

-William Fevre Chablis Premier Cru Les Lys 2011, $52

-William Fevre Chablis Premier Cru Vaulorent 2011, $76

-William Fevre Chablis Champs Royaux 2011, +276436, $21.95

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (8587 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Bouchard Pere et Fils Savigny Les Beaunes Les Lavieres Domaine Cote d'Or Premier Cru 2011, $55.

-Bouchard Pere et Fils Beaune Marconnets Domaine Cote d'Or Premier Cru 2011, $62.

-Bouchard Pere et Fils Pouilly-Fuisse 2011, +56580, $26.90

-Bouchard Pere et Fils Macon-Lugny St. Pierre 2011, +51573, $15.60

-William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses 2011, $103

-William Fevre Chablis Premier Cru Beauroy 2011, $52

-William Fevre Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons 2011, $52

-Villa Ponciago Fleurie la Reserve 2011 Beaujolais, $26

-Villa Ponciago Fleurie Cuvee les Hauts du Py 2011 Beaujolais, $33

 

Other wines shown today included Villa Ponciago Fleurie Grand Cuvee La Roche Muriers 2010 ($53, rated ***1/2), Bouchard Pere et Fils Meursault 2010 $43.95 (+261322, rated ***1/2), Bouchard Pere et Fils Beaune du Chateau 1er cru 2008 $36.95 (+325142, rated ****), and Bouchard Pere et Fils La Vignee Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2009 $17.60, (+605667, rated ***1/2)

 

The Food: quality international cheeses served at room temperature, assorted breads and toasted pita points, fruit.

The Downside: nothing really, as we were in the bigger room with plenty of space to spread out.

The Upside: another chance to try Luc Bouchard's high end Burgundies.

The Contact Person: jason@woodmanwinesandspirits.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 90
 

Saturday, March 23, 2013

Grandi Marchi tasting at the AGO, March 4 report

The Date and Time: Monday March 4, 2013  5:30 PM to 6:30 PM plus

The Event: Grandi Marchi walk-around tasting for the trade and for writers. It was last here in Toronto in 2010 and 2012…see notes below.

The Venue: Art Gallery of Ontario, Baillie Court.

The Target Audience: wine trade, later private purchasers at night.

The Availability/Catalogue: orders were to be placed with Vintages reps.

The Quote/Background: The Grandi Marchi represent 19 families who make upscale Italian wines. Not all GM families were represented here, about three were missing (most likely because they had no product in Ontario at the moment). From 2012, I enjoyed at 91+ points:

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Antinori Pian delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino 2006, $66.41

-Masi Costasera Riserva Amarone Classico 2006, $69.95

-Jermann W… Dreams Bianco 2009, $63.95

-Umani Ronchi San Lorenzo Rosso Conero Montepulciano 2008, $14.95

 

From 2010, I enjoyed at 91+ points:

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Biondi Santi Tenuta Greppo Brunello di Montalcino 2004, $125

-Biondi Santi Villa Poggio Salvi Rosso di Montalcino 2008, $25

-Ca' del Bosco Franciacorta Cuvee Annamaria Clementi 2002, $109

-Ca' del Bosco Carmenero 2001, $59

-Folonari Tenute di Nozzole Chianti Classico Riserva 2006, $30

-Jermann W…Dreams…2007, $59

-Masi Serego Alighieri Vaio Amaron Amarone della Valpolicella Classico

2004 $69.95

-Pio Cesare Barolo 2005, $75

-Pio Cesare il Bricco Barbaresco 2005, $99

-Pio Cesare Ornato Barolo 2005, $99

 

BUT in 2013, I enjoyed the following wines (I did not taste every wine on offer):

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Alois Lageder Lowengang Chardonnay 2009 Alto Adige, $49

-Folonari Tenute Cabreo Il Borgo 2008 IGT Toscana, $35

-Biondi Santi Tenuta Greppo Brunello di Montalcino 2008, $169

-Donnafugata Mille e una Notte 2007 Sicily, $67.

-Masi Campolongo di Torbe Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2006 Veneto, $99.95.

-Masi Costaserva Riserva Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007 Veneto, $66

-Pio Cesare Ornato Barolo 2008, $95

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (8890 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Folonari Nozzle Chianti Classico Riserva 2009, $30

-Folonari Tenuta La Fuga Brunello di Montalcino 2007, $59

-Argiolas Turriga 2007 IGT Sardinia, $79

-Biondi Santi Sassoalloro 2009 IGT Toscana, $35.95

-Donnafugata Chiaranda Chardonnay 2009 Sicily, $38

-Donnafugata Tancredi 2008 Sicily, $35

-Jermann Chardonnay 2011 Friuli, $29

-Jermann W … Dreams 2010 Fruili, $63

-Lungarotti Monticchio Riserva Rubesco 2006 Umbria, $49

-Antinori Marchese Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva 2008, $29.95

-Antinori Pian delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino 2007, $59.95

-Antinori Guado Al Tasso Il Bruciato 2011, $31

-Mastroberardino Radici Taurasi 2007 Campania, $44

-Michele Chiarlo Cerequio Barolo 2007 Piedmont, $71

-Michele Chiarlo Nizza La Court Barbera d'Asti Superiore 2010 Piedmont, $45

-Pio Cesare Barolo 2008, $71

-Pio Cesare Fides Barbera d'Alba 2010, $44

-Pio Cesare Piodilei Chardonnay 2009, $44

-Rivera Puer Apuliae 2007 Puglia, $35

-Tasca d'Almerita Tascante 2009 IGT Sicilia, $45

-Tasca d'Almerita Regaleali Rosso del Conte 2007 Sicilia, $46

-Umani Ronchi Cumaro Conero Riserva 2008 Marche, $39

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (8587 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Alois Lageder Am Sand Gewurztraminer 2011, $33

-Alois Lageder Cor Romigberg Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, $65.

-Argiolas Korem 2009 IGt Sardinia, $44

-Biondi Santi Rosso di Montalcino 2009 IGT Toscana, $59

-Masi Bossi Fedrigotti Fojanegh 2009 IGT Trentino, $29.95

-Tasca d'Almerita Cygnus Nero D'avola/Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 IGT Sicilia, $22

 

The Food: cheeses (toscano pecorino, gorgonzola, fontina, taleggio) with breads, sliders (eggplant parmigiano and chicken parmignano), a pickle bar with green olives, salads, farro salad, grilled cheese sandwich, sliced meats, risottos (seafood and pea and pancetta), and a soft creamy polenta with braised beef and/or truffled mushroom ragout – all from Frank Restaurant in the AGO. I question the grilled cheese, but everything else was outstanding.

The Downside: the big crowd arrived an hour after I got there, but I had already planned to taste the expensive wines first, to get a heads up.

The Upside: good conversations with principals.

The Contact Person: rose.holness@lcbo.com or p.titone@ice.it

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 92.

Thursday, March 21, 2013

Southbrook Farms Winery: in-depth look at reserve levels cabernet/merlot, 1991 to today

The Date and Time: Friday, March 15, 2013  10:30 AM to 1:30 PM

The Event: an in-depth varietal/label tasting from Bill Redelmeier of Southbrook Farms, Cabernet Merlot at different levels of "reserve".

The Venue: LCBO Private Event Room (Scrivener Square)

The Target Audience: WWCC members

The Availability/Catalogue: only the more recent wines are available for sale.

The Quote/Background:  There were 32 wines in all, mostly from the cab merlot labels. Wines were made by Derek Barnett (1991 - 2002), Colin Campbell and Steve Byfield (2002 – 2005), and currently, Ann Sperling (2006 - ). All wines made since the arrival of Ann Sperling were organic and then biodynamic, a crowning achievement for Ontario (also, the winemaking facilities were LEED certified).

The Wines: No wines at this level were made in 1996, 2003, and 2004.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-1997 Southbrook Triomphe Cabernet Merlot [first use of Triomphe]

-1998 Southbrook Triomphe Cabernet Merlot [wine of the year at Ontario Wine Awards]

-2001 Southbrook Triomphe Cabernet Merlot

-2002 Southbrook Triomphus Watson Vineyard Cabernet Franc

-2005 Southbrook Triomphe Cabernet Merlot

-2006 Southbrook Poetica Cabernet Merlot

-2008 Southbrook Triomphe Cabernet Merlot [biodynamic certified]

-2009 Whimsy! Renewed Vows Cabernet Franc

-2010 Southbrook Triomphe Cabernet Franc

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (8890 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-1993 Southbrook Cabernet Sauvignon [reserve level]

-1995 Southbrook Lailey Merlot [reserve level]

-2002 Southbrook Triomphe Cabernet Merlot

-2002 Southbrook Poetica Cabernet Merlot

-2006 Southbrook Triomphe Cabernet Merlot [winery now in Niagara]

-2007 Southbrook Poetica Cabernet Merlot

-2009 Southbrook Whimsy! Married Young Cabernet Merlot

-2009 Southbrook Whimsy! Cabernet Sauvignon

-2010 Southbrook Triomphe Cabernet Sauvignon

-2010 Southbrook Poetica Red [cabernet merlot]

-2011 Southbrook Triomphe Cabernet Franc

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (8587 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-1991 Southbrook Cabernet Merlot Reif Vineyard [reserve level]

-1992 Southbrook Cabernet Sauvignon Reif Vineyard [reserve level]

-1994 Southbrook Lailey Cabernet Sauvignon [reserve level]

-1995 Southbrook Trillium Cabernet Merlot

-1999 Southbrook Triomphe Cabernet Merlot

-2000 Southbrook Triomphe Cabernet Merlot

-2007 Southbrook Triomphe Cabernet Merlot

 

Some current white wines were also poured:

 

-2010 Southbrook Whimsy! Chardonnay Lot 20  ****

-2010 Southbrook Poetica Chardonnay  *** 1/2

-2011 Southbrook Whimsy! "Damy" Chardonnay (named after a French barrel maker) ****

-2011 Southbrook Whimsy! "Sirugue" Chardonnay (named after a French barrel maker) *** 1/2

-2011 Southbrook Whimsy! Winemaker's White (58% Chardonnay, 27% Semillon, 15% Muscat) *** 1/2

 

The Food: none

The Contact Person: sdarby@rogers.com; bill@southbrook.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 93.

 

 

Tuesday, March 19, 2013

Bimonthly wrap party for CityBites' March/April issue

The Date and Time:  Monday, March 18, 2013  6PM to 9PM

The Event: bimonthly wrap party for CityBites' March/April issue.

The Venue: Lo Zingaro, recently opened at 571 Queen St West.

The Target Audience: writers and workers at CityBites magazine.

The Quote/Background: 100 people turned up in celebration. There were beers and sakes, which I didn't have, and bottled water (which I forgot to have).

The Wines: Four wines were part of the party.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Ravine Vineyard Meritage 2011 VQA Niagara Peninsula, +285627 Vintages $24.95

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (8890 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Ravine Sand & Gravel York Road White Blend 2012, +260414 LCBO, $16.95

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (8587 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Rosewood Estates Pinot Noir 2010 VQA Niagara

-Santa Carolina Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Chile

 

The Food: we were treated to off-the-menu platters of deep-fried calamari, salumi & formaggi platters, arancia rice balls with fior di latte and Italian ham and spicy tomato sauce, plus the inevitable specialties of the house: pizzas! We had the Diavolessa (SM tomatoes, spicy salame, pecorino, chili pepper), the Lucifer (SM tomatoes, grilled eggplant, ricotta salata, fior di latte), the Carbonara (housemade guanciale, pecorino, egg, black pepper, etc.), and the Contatto (SM tomatoes, cherry tomatoes, Italian ham, smoked provolone, arugula, etc.). Every pizza was Rome-styled with local cheeses, white sauces, and exceedingly thin crusts. Twelve pizzas are on offer.

The Downside: quite a blustery night

The Upside: good crowd of people, no music blaring.

The Contact Person: Natalie@citybites.ca

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 91.