Search This Blog

Wednesday, April 26, 2023

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for April 29, 2023 release.


----- Forwarded Message -----
From: "deantudor@yahoo.com" <deantudor@yahoo.com>
To: Dean Tudor Tudor <dtudor@pathcom.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2023, 10:31:45 a.m. EDT
Subject: WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for April 29, 2023 release.

THIS IS THE THIRD BLUE MOON RELEASE FOR APRIL 2023...

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for April 29, 2023 release.

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at http://www.deantudor.com since 1994.

These notes for good wines available through LCBO Vintages (on a bi-weekly basis) can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca or at http://www.deantudor.com No winery can buy their way into – or out of – this publication.

Scores are a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, e.g. a Southern Rhone would taste like a Southern Rhone) and QPR (Quality/Price Ratio value in the marketplace above or below its price).

Currently, the wine media have no access to the tasting samples usually provided to us in the LCBO lab on a fortnightly basis. This will go on for some time. HOWEVER, the wine media will still have access to the advance spreadsheet of the wines to be released. So I know what is to be released and when. SOME (but not many) of these 100 or so biweekly released wines I have recently tasted since January 2020 or so, and I can comfortably recommend them based on this prior sampling.

** Some New Wines I Had Tasted ---

The Event: A tasting of Conegliano Valdobbiadene: the heart of Prosecco Superiore DOCG
The Venue: SIPS, Maud Street
The Target Audience: wine media and sommeliers (over two dozen in all)
The Availability/Catalogue: this was a masterclass of higher-end Prosecco wines. These wines were generally not yet available for sale in Ontario, except as specified.
The Quote/Background: Jennifer Huether, MS, was our speaker today, and she ran over the basics of what this Italian region was all about. The hills of CV are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. All of the wine made in this DOCG is white; 93% of the wine made here is sparkling. Two sub-regions produce the best Prosecco – Rive and Cartizze. The Martinotti Method (a variation of Charmat) is prescibed. While not every farmed area is organic, glyphosate has been totally banned and growers are moving toward a green sustainability. The overall top quality Proseccos come from these two regions of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene, both located between Venice and the Dolomites...and these are at the DOCG level. 105 million bottles are produced every year. Each bottle should have wine that is 85% Glera grape at a minimum, with 15% maximum allowable for other grapes such as pinot nero, chardonnay, and any of some four local varieties.
Pronunciation was basically straightforward: val-doh-bee-ahhh-deh-ne
The Wines: There were 9 wines, and in general I really enjoyed the dryer ones. Each wine had about 11.5% ABV.

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-L'Antica Quercia Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Brut Nature Sui Lieviti "A" 2020 [organic wine, on lees, bone dry at 0g/L residual sugar]
-Frassinelli Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Extra Brut Rive di Santa Maria di Feletto 2021 [1.5g/L residual sugar, modest finish]
-Canevel Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Brut Biologico Campofalco Monfalcon Vineyard 2021 [90% glera, 10% verdiso, extended Charmat storage]
-Bottega Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Extra Dry "Il Vino dei Poeti" [16-18 g/L RS, Noble Estates agency]
-Col Vetoraz Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Extra Dry [16g/L RS, finishes drier, savoury]

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Sommariva Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Brut [9g/L RS, jes peachy with some lemon peel]
-Ruggeri Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Brut Quartese [9g/L RS]
-Perlage Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Extra Dry Col di Manza [16g/L RS]
-Marsuret Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Extra Dry Il Soller [16g/L RS]

The Food: water biscuits and water
The Contact Person: lisa@androscom.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 90

** Some Recommended Wines from the LCBO's Limited Time Offers selections...these are good value...on sale through Sunday May 21...

[white] +43281 Flat Rock Riesling VQA save $2, LTO price $17.95
[white] +711556 Wakefield Estate Chardonnay Padthaway South Australia save $2, LTO price $15.95
[red] +30163 Cesari Bosan Ripasso Valpolicella Superiore save $4, LTO price $29.95
[red] +681643 Chateau Argadens Bordeaux Superieur save $3, LTO price $16.95
[red] +226944 Rodney Strong Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon save $3, LTO price $26.95
[red] +59311 Seven Deadly Zins Old Vines Zinfandel Lodi save $3, LTO price $21.95
[red] +419770 C. Smith Wines of Substance Cabernet Sauvignon Washington State save $3, LTO price $21.95.
[splurge] +996405 Stag's Leap Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Napa save $5, LTO price $66.95
[fizz] +12619 Vilmart Grand Reserve 1er Cru Champagne save $5, LTO price $68.95


MAJOR THEME: SMART SUMMER BUYS

Wines Under $20
=========
FIZZ+16602 ALBINO ARMANI EXTRA DRY CONEGLIANO VALDOBBIADENE PROSECCO $18.95 MVC/QPR: 92.
W+186346 SIDEWOOD CHARDONNAY 2019 AUSTRALIA $18.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
W+89029 TAWSE SKETCHES OF NIAGARA RIESLING 2021 VQA $19.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
W+99309 LEYDA GARUMA SINGLE VINEYARD SAUVIGNON BLANC 2021 CHILE $17.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
W+31090 ROUTE 62 SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022 SOUTH AFRICA $15.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
R+444687 LA POSTA FAZZIO MALBEC 2020 ARGENTINA $18.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
R+28081 VIÑALBA PATAGONIA RESERVA MALBEC 2020 $19.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
R+523001 CAVE SPRING ESTATE GROWN CABERNET FRANC 2020 VQA $19.95 MVC/QPR: 92.
R+29978 DOMAINE DES TERRES DORÉES LE RONSAY BEAUJOLAIS 2021 $19.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
R+24495 CHÂTEAU MAISON NOBLE SAINT MARTIN 2019 BORDEAUX $16.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
R+396382 ZACCAGNINI TRALCETTO MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO 2020 $16.95 MVC/QPR: 89.

Wines Over $20
=========
FIZZ+19346 THE FOREIGN AFFAIR BRUT ROSÉ SPARKLING VQA $24.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
FIZZ+499442 DOMAINE STE. MICHELLE BRUT ROSÉ SPARKLING $24.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
W+483875 THE TRAGICALLY HIP AHEAD BY A CENTURY CHARDONNAY VQA 2021 $21.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
R+633628 MISSION HILL FAMILY ESTATE RESERVE MERITAGE 2020 BCVQA $31.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
R+17239 BACHELDER LES VILLAGES GAMAY NOIR 2020 VQA $25.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
R+33894 LE CLOS JORDANNE JORDAN VILLAGE PINOT NOIR 2020 VQA $29.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
R+86363 WILDASS RED 2018 VQA $21.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
R+632984 PIERRE LURTON BORDEAUX 2016 $21.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
R+579094 CAPARZO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2017 $51.95 MVC/QPR: 89.



Dean Tudor, Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Tuesday, April 25, 2023

KCIII Coronation Quiche

Lifestyle
I made coronation quiche, the royal recipe devised in honor of King Charles III, and I'm not convinced it'll become a national dish
by Mia Jankowicz
Apr 25, 2023, 11:57 AM EDT

A new recipe — coronation quiche — was launched ahead of King Charles III's coronation next month.
I decided, as a quiche novice, to try to make it for myself.
The recipe was easy to follow, but I'm not convinced that Brits will embrace it.


Britain is gearing up for King Charles III to be crowned at Westminster Abbey on May 6.

As part of the celebrations, Buckingham Palace released a new recipe, known as coronation quiche.

The new recipe comes 70 years after Queen Elizabeth II's big day, when coronation chicken — a bright, tasty, curry-inspired affair – was introduced to the tastebuds of the world.

The Queen ate it as part of her coronation luncheon, and it soon became a national classic.

Charles may well be hoping to repeat the same success with coronation quiche, which features a subtle combination of Cheddar cheese, broad beans (fava beans in the US), tarragon and spinach, some of which are seasonal ingredients in the UK right now.

I dutifully set about testing out the recipe. After a few setbacks I managed a decent attempt — though I'd likely make a few adjustments next time around.

I found the taste springy, delicate and herby, but ultimately I'm not sure it will win many hearts.

I spent roughly $13 on ingredients, including a backup shortcrust pastry, which turned out to be a wise decision.

Here's the full ingredients list. I've converted the UK units and ingredients to US ones in parentheses, but there's some rounding involved — so please take this as a loose guide only.

Pastry:

125g (4.4 oz or 1 cup) plain flour
Pinch of salt
25g (0.9 oz) cold butter, diced
25g (0.9 oz) lard
2 tablespoons milk
Or 1 x 250g (8.9 oz) block of ready-made shortcrust pastry

Filling:

125ml (0.5 cup) milk
175ml (0.75 cup) double (heavy) cream
2 medium eggs
1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon
Salt and pepper
100g (1 1/4 cup) grated Cheddar cheese
180g (6.4 oz) cooked spinach, lightly chopped
60g (2 oz or 0.25 cup) cooked broad beans (fava beans)


I wondered if the new recipe will take the same place in British people's hearts as coronation chicken, a cold dish that combines chicken with dried fruits and a creamy curry sauce.

Historian Barry Turner wrote that "though simple to prepare, coronation chicken was made exotic by the rarity of fresh curry spices, not to mention whipped cream, in austerity Britain."

It became easier to put together in later years, with simplified spices and the introduction of intensively-reared chicken, he wrote.

Source: "Thorns in the Crown, The Story of the Coronation and What it meant for Britain."
Today you're more likely to find this gloopy, sweet, bright yellow version, for sale as a sandwich filling. It ain't subtle, but it's as good as ever.
Supermarkets in the UK now sell containers of coronation chicken as sandwich fillers, a far cry from its royal start.

I get to work trying to create my pastry.

I was determined to try to make the pastry myself, so I cubed the butter and lard and added it to the sifted flour and salt.

I rubbed it all together to get the "sandy, breadcrumb-like" texture the recipe describes. It's important to start out with cold butter.

Though the recipe seems vegetarian, lard is pork fat, meaning that both veggies and non-pork-eaters won't be able to partake unless they replace it with another ingredient.

Just as I was congratulating myself on my crumby mixture, I got confused, adding the 125ml of milk meant for the filling, rather than the 2 tablespoons meant for the dough.

Pastry attempt No.1 was a write-off.

Attempt No.2, I ended up with a nice ball of dough. I put it in the fridge for 45 minutes and mentally high-fived the King.
I rolled this out in a circle, but even though it was thinner than the required 5mm, it still didn't seem big enough.

This was even more concerning given that the recipe calls for a 20-cm pie tin, and I had only been able to find an 18-cm one.

Anyway, time to push ahead.
Will my pastry attempt No.2 succeed – don't hold your breath.
Blind-baked shortcrust pastry in its tin, with an arrow marking "danger" where the crust has a gap.

Having preheated the oven to 190° C (375° F) I blind baked the pastry with baking beads for 15 minutes.

Sadly it came out as I feared — with dangerous gaps that my filling would surely spill through.

Attempt No.2 was also a bust.

Apparently, I'm not alone. The Guardian's review also recommends that inexperienced chefs make double the amount of pastry.
It was time to bring in the professionals.

Two hours behind schedule I switched to the shop-bought pastry.

I lined the tin, rested it in the fridge for 45 minutes, and once again blind baked it, after which I turned the oven down to 160° C (320° F) as the recipe required.
Getting my filling ingredients ready.
An overhead shot of a chopping board with a bowl of broad beans, a pile of chopped cooked spinach, and a jug with milk, cream, eggs and tarragon for the filling.
The recipe calls for cooked beans, but as I was using tinned beans they seemed soft enough already. I cooked down the spinach and made the mixture of egg, cream, milk, chopped tarragon and seasoning.

I squeezed plenty of water out of the spinach so that it wasn't soggy going in the quiche later.

If I made this again, I'd probably use gently cooked fresh beans.
I added a sprinkling of cheese, then the spinach and the beans, before pouring on the egg mix.
A composite image showing the quiche base layered with cheese, then with the beans and spinach, and then pouring the egg mixture over it.
The recipe calls for Cheddar cheese, which has a wide range of flavor profiles from really mature and sharp, through to very mild.

I opted for a medium strength, though next time I'd consider adding a small amount of stronger cheese.
It was starting to look pretty delicious. Another sprinkle of cheese, and it went in the oven.
An overhead view of the uncooked quiche, with a pot of cheese about to be sprinkled on top.

While ovens vary, the recipe calls for 20-25 minutes cooking time.
While I waited I decide to try on my failed pastry crust as a crown.

It's hard to say if it's more or less convincing as a crown than it was as a pastry crust.
It was finally time to take it out of the oven — I was pretty impressed with how it came out, and it smelled amazing.
A finished Coronation Quiche, on a pale green plate.
Now it was just a matter of waiting a bit for it to cool — cutting a slice immediately would have been messy, as the filling firms up as it cools.
I also made three little tarts using leftover ingredients.

I felt a bit guilty about all the food I'd wasted, so I used the remaining dough to make some little tarts with spare spinach, cheese, and the coronation chicken.

I scarfed them down while I waited for the main attraction to cool.
When I finally sliced into the quiche, it was just the right amount of ooze — unctuous, not runny at all, and not spongy either.
After all that effort, was it a slice fit for a king (or queen)?
And it's finally time to taste.

The quiche tasted warm, and leaned heavily on spring-like flavours — with the herbiness of the tarragon and the full flavor of the spinach dominating.

The egg was creamy and light, bringing it all together, but I couldn't really taste much of the cheese.

It's easy to picture the dish being served at a posh picnic.
I tried the quiche again the next day, and handed it out to neighbors, family, and a plumber who stopped by my place — to mixed reviews.

"It's definitely a step or two up from the standard," the plumber said.
My neighbors enjoyed it, but when pressed said they probably wouldn't seek it out again.
According to my mum, the quiche needed more seasoning, and was "quite posh and bland, or you could say delicate." She recommended more cheese as well.

Given that the British palate is not known for its subtlety, I doubt that people who like a hearty, cheesy quiche would cook this twice.

All in all, I'm not convinced King Charles III's coronation quiche is going to be a national crowd-pleaser that stands the test of time.
* Copyright © 2023 Insider Inc. All rights reserved. Registration on or use of this site constitutes acceptance of our Terms

Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Sunday, April 23, 2023

LCBO Limited Time Offers to May 21...

** Some Recommended Wines from the LCBO's Limited Time Offers selections...these  are good value...on sale  through Sunday May 21...

[white] +43281 Flat Rock Riesling VQA save $2, LTO price $17.95
[white] +711556 Wakefield Estate Chardonnay Padthaway South Australia save $2, LTO price $15.95
[red] +30163 Cesari Bosan Ripasso Valpolicella Superiore save $4, LTO price $29.95
[red] +681643 Chateau Argadens Bordeaux Superieur save $3, LTO price $16.95
[red] +226944 Rodney Strong Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon save $3, LTO price $26.95
[red] +59311 Seven Deadly Zins Old Vines Zinfandel Lodi save $3, LTO price $21.95
[red] +419770 C. Smith Wines of Substance Cabernet Sauvignon Washington State save $3, LTO price $21.95.
[splurge] +996405 Stag's Leap Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Napa save $5, LTO price $66.95
[fizz] +12619 Vilmart Grand Reserve 1er Cru Champagne save $5, LTO price $68.95



Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Wednesday, April 19, 2023

Report on -- TASTE ONTARIO ! TORONTO -- April 12, 2023

TASTE ONTARIO !  TORONTO

The Date and Time:  Wednesday April 12, 2023  11A to 5PM
The Event: TASTE ONTARIO !  TORONTO
The Venue: Park Hyatt
The Target Audience: wine media, agents, and sommeliers
The Availability/Catalogue: The paper catalogue was replete with data and info on each wine, plus an overview of the Ontario VQA wine industry. Prices listed were both for licensees and for retail sales. Contacts were listed for each winery.
The Quote/Background: 62 wineries participated from the Lake Erie North Shore, Niagara Peninsula, Prince Edward County, and Emerging Regions. All of the 300+ wines featured are available to order.
The Wines: I did not taste all the wines; I was focused on chardonnays and sparklers. I divided my time between the media room (where I could sit down) and the trade show floor (where I could stand up). Prices are retail.

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Tawse Winery Robyn's Block Chardonnay 2020 $47.15 [MY FAVE]
-Adamo Estate Winery Growers Series Oaked Chardonnay 2019 $19.95
-Colio Reserve Chardonnay 2020 $19.95
-Closson Chase Vineyards Churchside Chardonnay PEC 2019 $50
-Lighthall Vineyards Estate Chardonnay PEC 2020 $37.85
-2027 Cellars Wismer Vineyard Foxcroft Block Chardonnay 2020 $30
-Bachelder Wismer Vineyard Foxcroft "Nord" Chardonnay 2020
-Bachelder Les Villages Chardonnay 2021 $35
-Cave Spring Vineyard Chardonnay CSV 2020 $34.95
-Domaine Queylus Chardonnay Signature 2018
-Flat Rock Cellars Rusty Shed Chardonnay 2020 $34.95
-Hidden Bench Bistro Chardonnay 2019
-Le Clos Jordanne Le Grand Clos Chardonnay 2020 $54.95
-Le Clos Jordanne Claystone Terrace Chardonnay 2020 $39.95
-Westcott Vineyards Estate Chardonnay 2020 $29.99
-Inniskillin Montague Vineyard Chardonnay 2021 $30.95
-Jackson Triggs Grand Reserve Chardonnay 2020 $27.95
-Southbrook Organic Vineyard Triomphe Chardonnay 2019 $26.95

-Ravine Vineyard Estate Limited Edition Vintage Brut 2011 $135 [300 bottles] [MY FAVE]
-Drea's Wine Co. Small Batch Blanc de Blanc 2020 $59.50
-Stratus Blanc de Blanc 2015
-Charles Baker Wines Cuvee du Boulanger Blanc de Blancs 2020 $39.95
-Rockway Vineyards Limited Edition Brut Cuvee Sparkling NV $90
-Trius Sparkling Brut NV $29.95
-Trius Sparkling Brut Rose NV $29.95
-Trius Showcase Brut Nature Sparkling NV $54.95
-Lighthall Vineyards Culmination Blanc de Blancs Sparkling PEC 2019 $39.95
-13th Street Winery Blanc de Blanc NV $29.95
-Two Sisters Blanc de Franc 2019
-Jackson Triggs Grand Reserve Entourage Blanc de Blanc 2017 $27.95
-Jackson Triggs Grand Reserve Entourage Sparkling Brut 2017 $49.95
-Henry of Pelham Family Cuvee Catherine Estate Blanc de Blanc Carte Blanche 2017 $49.95

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Adamo Estate Winery Sogno Unoaked Chardonnay 2021 $19.95
-KIN Vineyards Carp Ridge Chardonnay 2019 $32
-Pelee Island Winery Vinedressers Chardonnay 2021 $19.95
-Broken Stone Winery Chardonnay PEC 2020
-Closson Chase Vineytard Chardonnay PEC 2020 $35
-Lighthall Vineyards Fondation Chardonnay PEC 2021 $24.95
-Norman Hardie Chardonnay PEC 2020 $59.20
-Rosehall JCR Chardonnay Rosehall Vineyard PEC 2019 $36
-Bachelder Mineralite Chardonnay 2021 $25
-Calamus Estate Barrel Kissed Chardonnay 2021 $21.95
-Henry of Pelham Family Estate Chardonnay 2020 $19.95
-Le Clos Jordanne Jordan Village Chardonnay 2020 $29.95
-Leaning Post The Fifty Chardonnay 2020 $25.20
-Legends Estates Chardonnay Reserve 2017 $21
-Meldville Chardonnay 2019 $20
-Meldville Chardonnay Barrel Select 2019 $26
-Reif Chardonnay 2020 $19.15
-Two Sisters Vineyards Unoaked Chardonnay 2019 $39

-Westcott Vineyards Violette Sparkling Brut 2021 $29.99
-The Foreign Affair Winery Sparkling Rose Brut NV $24.95
-Bella Terra Vineyards Sparkling Brut $24.95

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-KIN Vineyards Carp Ridge Skin Fermented Chardonnay 2021 $26
-Bonnie Vivant Chardonnay 2021 $34.04
-Cooper's Hawk Vineyards Unoaked Chardonnay 2020 $15.15
-Casa-Dea Estates Winery Unoaked Chardonnay PEC 2021 $20.95
-Trail Estate County Chardonnay Vintage 3 PEC 2019 $50
-Vineland Estates Winery Un-oaked Chardonnay 2021 $15.95

The Food: there were several charcuterie boards, with cheeses and meats and veggies and fruit, plus breads and dips.
The Downside: it was jam packed, which made it awkward to move about from table to table.
The Upside: I had a great opportunity to taste many chardonnays and sparklers. It was peaceful in the media room.
The Contact Person: lauren.garrard@wmao.ca
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 90.

Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Thursday, April 13, 2023

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for APRIL 15, 2023 release.

THIS IS THE SECOND OF THREE BLUE MOON RELEASES FOR APRIL 2023...

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES:  under/over $20 for APRIL 15,  2023 release.

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at http://www.deantudor.com since 1994.

These notes for good wines available through  LCBO Vintages (on a bi-weekly basis)  can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca  or at  http://www.deantudor.com No winery can buy their way into – or out of – this publication.

Scores are a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, e.g. a Southern Rhone would taste like a Southern Rhone) and QPR (Quality/Price Ratio value in the marketplace above or below its price).

Currently, the wine media have no access to the tasting samples usually provided to us in the LCBO lab on a fortnightly basis. This will go on for some time. HOWEVER,  the wine media will still have access to the advance spreadsheet of the wines to be released. So I know what is to be released and when. SOME (but not many) of these 100 or so biweekly released wines I have recently tasted since January 2020 or so, and I can comfortably recommend them based on this prior sampling.
 
** Some New Wines I Tasted Over the Past Season  ---

The Event: Icons of the Okanagan Valley Walk Around Tasting late November 2022
The Venue: Modus Ristorante
The Target Audience: private customers, wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: all these VQA wines were available for sale by the bottle that night. This was followed by a chance to buy the wines at the LCBO via the Internet. Private Collectors is a sub-group of high end wines within the Mark Anthony Wine and Spirits portfolio. The wineries are owned by Anthony von Mandl. My personal contact was Kirsty from Mark Anthony; she had extended my invitation.
The Quote/Background: Checkmate had New World Chardonnay and Merlot, with old world elegance. Martin's Lane had stylish small lot Pinot Noir and Riesling. Shane Munn, the winemaker at Martin's Lane, was available for talk and discussion. The best part of the evening was tasting only a few wines (just seven) and talking about them with friends and sales help, especially contrasting the two merlots and the two chardonnays.

The Wines:

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Checkmate Winery Queen Taken Chardonnay 2018 VQA $111.95
-Checkmate Winery Fools Mate Chardonnay 2018 VQA $95.95
-Checkmate Winery Silent Bishop Merlot 2018 VQA $95.95
-Checkmate Winery End Game Merlot 2018 VQA $95.95

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Martin's Lane Winery Naramata Riesling 2018 VQA $54
-Martin's Lane Winery Simes Pinot Noir 2017 VQA $96
-Martin's Lane Winery Naramata Pinot Noir 2017 VQA $96

The Food: canapes
The Contact Person:  privatecollectors@markanthony.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 88.

** Some Recommended Wines from the LCBO's Limited Time Offers selections...these  are good value...on sale  through Sunday April 23 --
White+24133 ANDREW PELLER RIESLING THIRTY BENCH, save $3 LTO price $19.95
White+326728 OYSTER BAY CHARDONNAY MARLBOROUGH, save $3 LTO price $16.95
White+258699 J. LOHR RIVERSTONE CHARDONNAY, save $2 LTO price $17.95 [load up]
Red+394783 DONA PAULA ESTATE MALBEC, save $3 LTO price $13.10
Red+50203 BERONIA RESERVA  RIOJA, save $3 LTO price $18.95
SPLURGE Red+352583 BERINGER KNIGHT'S VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON, save $5 LTO price  $41.95
FIZZ Rose+365205 CONO SUR SPARKLING ROSÉ, save $3 LTO price $15.45 [buy a case]

MAJOR THEME:   CALIFORNIA CABERNETS
Wines Under $20
=========
Fortified+274456 SPAIN: LUSTAU MANZANILLA PAPIRUSA SOLERA FAMILIAR VERY DRY $16.95 MVC/QPR:  89
W+89011 ONTARIO: FEATHERSTONE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022 VQA $17.95 MVC/QPR:  89
W+224626 ALSACE: JOSEPH CATTIN GEWURZTRAMINER 2021 $18.95 MVC/QPR:  89
W+928580 CHILE: SANTA CAROLINA GRAN RESERVA CHARDONNAY 2020 $18.95 MVC/QPR:  91
W+540823 CHILE: SECRETO DE VIU MANENT GRAN RESERVA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022 $15.95 MVC/QPR:  89
W+31668 ARGENTINA: DOMAINE BOUSQUET CHARDONNAY 2021  $17.95 MVC/QPR:  89
R+28078 ARGENTINA: ZUCCARDI Q CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2019 $19.95 MVC/QPR:  89

Wines Over $20
=========
Fortified+515817 SPAIN: EMILIO LUSTAU ALMACENISTA FINO DEL PUERTO OBREGÓN SHERRY $26.95 MVC/QPR:  89
W+566026 ONTARIO: CAVE SPRING CSV RIESLING 2019 VQA $31.95 MVC/QPR:  90
W+181289 BURGUNDY: DOMAINE LE VERGER CHABLIS 2020 $31.95 MVC/QPR:  89
W+29601 BURGUNDY: VIGNOBLE ROTISSON TRADITION CHARDONNAY 2021 $21.95 MVC/QPR:  89
W+65573 LOIRE: JEAN-MAX ROGER CUVÉE LES CAILLOTTES SANCERRE 2020 $35.95 MVC/QPR:  89
W+189126 LOIRE: JEAN-MAX ROGER CUVÉE GENÈSE SANCERRE 2021 $37.95 MVC/QPR:  89
R+327387 AUSTRALIA: ROBERT OATLEY SIGNATURE SERIES SHIRAZ 2019 $20.95 MVC/QPR:  89
R+681981 BURGUNDY: CHARTRON ET TREBUCHET SANTENAY 2018 $41.95 MVC/QPR:  89
R+661306 VENETO: MASI SEREGO ALIGHIERI MONTE PIAZZO VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO  $32.95 MVC/QPR:  89
R+904565 CALIFORNIA: BOGLE VINEYARDS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020  $22.95 MVC/QPR:  89
R+597237  SONOMA: BENZIGER CABERNET SAUVIGNON [biodynamic] 2019  $27.95 MVC/QPR:  90
R+70581 WASHINGTON STATE: CHATEAU STE. MICHELLE CANOE RIDGE MERLOT 2018 $43.95 MVC/QPR:  89
Rose+172643 ONTARIO: TAWSE SKETCHES OF NIAGARA ROSÉ 2021 VQA $18.95 MVC/QPR:  91

Friday, April 7, 2023

Southside Fizz by Aloette $2.95

At the LCBO, you can currently find 359 coolers. Of course, no store carries them all. But the LCBO's website (www.lcbo.com) does list them all. The largest sub-category is "coolers and sodas" with 195 products, followed by "seltzers and sodas" with 115. "Teas and Caesars" take up the rest. Typical size is about a 355 mL can or a 473 mL can (size will vary) with 5.5% ABV and priced under $3. Sugar content varies wildly. I thought that I would drop a line or two about one of the newest, from the Aloette restaurant group. They've already launched "Espresso Martini Fizz" ($2.45, 473 mL can) and now they are back for a second launch: Southside Fizz ($2.95, 355 mL can, 5.5%ABV). It's a pre-made or pre-fab version of the basic Cucumber Mint Gimlet aka Eastside (or Southside) Cocktail aka Cucumber Gin and (if fizzy) Tonic. So it's got London Dry Gin, mint, cucumber juice, lime juice, sugar, and seltzer water. I'm a wine guy so I passed it over to my wife who's a gin aficionado. This cooler is light and citrusy on the palate, and would be more enjoyable if you deeply chill it and serve it on the rocks: it is the start of the patio season, once spring warms up a bit more. Enjoy....





Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Tuesday, April 4, 2023

NEW great red wines from Chateau des Charmes

Quite a quartet set of wines, just released by Chateau des Charmes (at winery and online) --

CHATEAU DE CHARMES EQUULEUS 2020 Paul Bosc Estate Vineyard, VQA St. David's Bench. +319525, $60 at winery and online: made from a traditional blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (50%), Cabernet Franc (25%) and Merlot (25%), but only made in good years (earlier vintages had all three grapes at varying levels such as, at one time, 53% cab sauv/34% cab franc/13% merlot and other blends; all was dependent on the harvest). The last vintage I tasted was 2010. The 2020 spent 16 months in small French oak, with each variety aged separately. After blending it is aged further in French oak casks for several months. Tons of concentrated Bordeaux flavours, all the dark black berries and mocha, but some years away from mellowing well. It's a Meritage wine in that Bordeaux-style blend, with plenty of black fruit and some smoke. Cellar this wine another 5 years, or else do a double decant (maybe even more) to accelerate the aging process. Tasted over a number of days – and it kept getting better. A good meaty wine for strong-flavoured grilled meats. Residual sugar 0.4 g/L. 13% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 94 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

======================================================


CHATEAU DES CHARMES CABERNET FRANC 2020 St. David's Bench Vineyard, VQA St. David's Bench, +453415 $44.95 at winery and online: it has been some years since I last tasted their St. David's Bench Cabernet Franc; they have a continual winner of a brooding wine that could have been diverted to Equuleus. It has some over-the-top full-bodied black spicy fruit while still retaining some cranberries and bell peppers, slightly augmented with a herby edge of pine/cedar/tobacco leaf tones. Aged for a year in 1 – 2 year-old toasted French oak. Sip as a meditative drink or with red meat/cheese (the winery suggests any herb-encrusted meats). Cork closure. I opened my bottle and did a double-decant followed by several days of open bottle sampling. Residual sugar at 0.5 g/L. 12% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

======================================================

CHATEAU DES CHARMES CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020 St. David's Bench Vineyard, VQA St. David's Bench, +935957 $44.95 at winery and online: this is the only single variety Cabernet Sauvignon that Chateau des Charmes makes, and not every year. Aged in small 1 – 2 year old French oak for 12 months. Loaded with dark choco-berry and mocha tones, and smooth all over, good balance between fruit-acid-wood. Ready now but will benefit from a cellaring of up to five years. This is Bordeaux quality as a food wine – upfront cassis, tobacco leaf, mocha. Should be great with shanks (lamb, veal, pork, drumsticks) or oxtail, even necks or cheeks. Residual sugar at 0.3 g/L. 13% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.


=====================================================

CHATEAU DES CHARMES MERLOT 2020 St David's Bench Vineyard, VQA St David's Bench, +453431, $44.95 at winery and online: made only in the best years, 2012 was the last vintage I had tasted. Rich and ripe cassis, cherry, cedar tones from one year barrel aging in French oak. As is typical with Merlot, you'll get a velvet soft finish with enjoyable finishing tannins. Give it two or more years, or do double-decanting. Residual sugar at 0.5 g/L. 13% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.


======================================================


Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Saturday, April 1, 2023

Best wines at LCBO Vintages April 1 release...under/over $20

Best wines at LCBO Vintages April 1 release...under/over $20

Wines Under $20
=========
W+356873 FLAT ROCK GOOD KHARMA CHARDONNAY 2021 VQA $17.95 MVC/QPR: 89
W+745349 DOMAINE JACKY MARTEAU SAUVIGNON TOURAINE 2021 LOIRE $16.95
MVC/QPR: 89
R+131540 FEATHERSTONE RED TAIL MERLOT 2020  VQA $19.95  MVC/QPR: 89
R+981175 DOMAINE DE LA MADONE LE PERRÉON BEAUJOLAIS-VILLAGES 2021  $18.95 MVC/QPR: 89
R+28545 DOMAINE FOND CROZE LE SERRE DE LA GARDE CÔTES DU RHÔNE 2020 Org
$16.95 MVC/QPR: 89
R+981399 TERRA D'ALIGI MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO 2018 $16.95 MVC/QPR: 89
R+488007 PERIQUITA RESERVA 2020 PORTUGAL $18.95 MVC/QPR: 89
Rose+498535 MALIVOIRE VIVANT ROSÉ 2021 VQA$19.95 MVC/QPR: 89

Wines Over $20
=========
W+22985 TYRRELL'S HUNTER VALLEY CHARDONNAY 2019  AUSTRALIA $24.95  MVC/QPR: 89
W+20455 LE CLOS JORDANNE JORDAN VILLAGE CHARDONNAY 2020 VQA $29.95 MVC/QPR: 90
W+30158 MUDDY WATER GROWERS' SERIES SAUVIGNON BLANC 2021 NEW ZEALAND $24.95 MVC/QPR: 89
R+29937 DOUDET-NAUDIN BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR 2020  $34.95 MVC/QPR: 89



Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Virus-free.www.avg.com