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Wednesday, November 13, 2024

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for NOVEMBER 16, 2024 release.

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES:  under/over $20 for  NOVEMBER 16, 2024 release.

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at  https://pages.pathcom.com/~dtudor since 1994. These notes for  better or best wines available through  LCBO Vintages (on a bi-weekly basis)  can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca  or at https://pages.pathcom.com/~dtudor No winery can buy their way into – or out of – my publication.

Scores are a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, e.g. a Southern Rhone would taste like a Southern Rhone) and QPR (Quality/Price Ratio value in the marketplace, above or below its price).
I was one of the first to jump on the Robert Parker bandwagon, using numerical indications for my scores in the early 1980s. Why? Because with a database I could rate, rank and order wines in any fashion. It was just so convenient using databases. Unfortunately, the numerical system has been shown to be disgraced by overuse and "inflated numbers"; thus I have quit any ranking by number. From now on, it will just be GOOD, BETTER and BEST, which will give me some wiggle room (e.g. is this wine an 87, 88, 89, or 90? Or all of them...depends on my mood and time of day). With the rigorous standards and lab testing by the LCBO, I can safely say that every single wine at the LCBO is at least GOOD, which I would numerically rank at 75-85 points. For reasons of time and space, I will NOT be listing the GOOD wines. Just the BETTER (86-89) and the BEST (90+ ) wines. This spread of points will relate to SILVER and GOLD medals, with GOOD being BRONZE.  This also fits into my scheme for trade tastings.

MVC/QPR=BETTER (86-89)=my basic recommendation
MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )=superior wine

MAJOR THEME:  Top wines for Gifting and Entertaining
              Ontario Icewines AND Greek wine
    ~130 wines are released today [there are many wines at the $18.95 and $19.95 level]

Recommended Wines UNDER $20
=========================
FIZZ+23545 VILLA SANDI IL FRESCO MILLESIMATO BRUT ROSÉ PROSECCO 2023 $18.95
W+196956 JOSEPH CATTIN PINOT GRIS ALSACE 2023 $17.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )
W+485656 M. CHAPOUTIER BILA-HAUT CÔTES DU ROUSSILLON BLANC MIDI 2022 $16.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )       
W+527622 ZACCAGNINI TRALCETTO PINOT GRIGIO ABRUZZO 2023 $17.95
W+408146 MARIA PAPOILA LOUREIRO/ALVARINHO PORTUGAL 2023 $18.95
R+39835 FARM TO TABLE CABERNET SAUVIGNON AUSTRALIA 2020 $19.95
R+38501 MONTEVIEJO FESTIVO MALBEC 2022  ARGENTINA $18.95
R+606764 ARBOLEDA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2022 CHILE $19.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )
R+994616 TERRA D'ALIGI TATONE MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO 2021 $17.95

Recommended Wines OVER $20
========================
FIZZ+167486 DEUTZ CLASSIC BRUT CHAMPAGNE $82.95
FIZZ+37482 THORN-CLARKE PINOT NOIR/CHARDONNAY SPARKLING  AUSTRALIA $24.95
FIZZ+37122 MONTES ANGEL ZAPALLAR VINEYARD BRUT SPARKLING CHILE $26.95
W+172338 SOUTHBROOK TRIOMPHE ORGANIC CHARDONNAY 2020 VQA $26.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )
W+424507 WESTCOTT ESTATE CHARDONNAY 2022 $29.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )
W+10489 CHARTRON ET TRÉBUCHET POUILLY-FUISSÉ 2022  $49
W+40325 DOMAINE FOURNIER LES BELLES VIGNES SANCERRE BLANC LOIRE 2023 $38.95
W+33260 PAPAGIANNAKOS ASSYRTIKO GREECE 2022 $26.95
W+361220 PADDY BORTHWICK SAUVIGNON BLANC NEW ZEALAND 2023 $23.95
W+22851 LOVEBLOCK SAUVIGNON BLANC  NEW ZEALAND 2022$ 29.95
R+977843 ALVARO PALACIOS VELLES VINYES LES TERRASSES SPAIN 2021 $58.95
R+41732 BACHELDER HANCK VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2021 $55 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )
R+184564 LE CLOS JORDANNE LE GRAND CLOS PINOT NOIR VQA 2020 $52 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )
R+312058 STRATUS RED VQA 2021 $55.20 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )
R+38098 DOMAINE DE LA CREUZE NOIRE BELLE VUE SAINT-AMOUR BEAUJOLAIS 2022 $24.25
R+20246 CHÂTEAU FONRÉAUD BORDEAUX 2022 $36.95
R+39128 MARCHESI DI BAROLO NIZZA VINEAREI BARBERA PIEDMONT 2021 $49.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )
R+261784 PAPALE LINEA ORO PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIA PUGLIA 2020 $28 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )
R+23374 CAPRAIA RISERVA CHIANTI CLASSICO 2018 $38.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )

LIMITED TIME OFFERS: Some Recommended Wines from the LCBO's Limited Time Offer selections...these  are "better" value...on sale  Nov 11 through Sunday December 1.  ---
 
+341743 Trius Rose VQA now $16.95, save $3
+326090 Oyster Bay Pinot Grigio now $17.95, save $3
+302380 Mezzacorona Pinot Grigio now $12.95, save $2
+573147 Malivoire Estate Grown Chardonnay VQA Beamsville Bench now $19.95, save $2
+40137 Stoneleigh Latitude Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand now $20.95, save $3
+619452 Matua Sauvignon Blanc Hawke's Bay now $15.95, save $2
+933077 Louis Jadot Chardonnay Bourgogne now $34.95, save $2
+225086 Umberto Cesari Liano Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon now $24.95, save $5
+479766 Zenato Ripassa Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore now $26.95, save $3
+356220 Tommasi Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico now $48.5, save $5
+212480 Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais now $19.45, save $2
+478727 Catena Malbec now $21.95, save $2
+274753 Hidden Bench Estate Organic Pinot Noir VQA Beamsville Bench now $34.95, save $3


More (358 products on sale)  can be found at https://www.lcbo.com/en/products#t=clp-products&sort=relevancy&layout=card&f:@lcbo_current_offer=[On%20Sale]

And FYI, here are the upcoming dates to watch out for LTOs sales promotions -- Dec 2 through January 5, 2025;  January 6 through February 2, 2025; about every four weeks ---

** Some New Wines I Tasted Over the Past Season ---

REPORT ON  MEDITERRANEAN APERITIVO MASTERCLASS 2024 MAY

It was my pleasure to attend the latest Italian seminar on its agrobusiness. This time, it was the "Mediterranean Apertivo" or MAP. There was an earlier seminar on the same topic about two years ago at Eataly with an attendance of about a dozen and a hook-up with New York city. The location now was the larger Chefs' House of George Brown College, where the audience had grown to a large number of about 75+. Wine Media and students dominated the audience. Today we heard from Christian Perreault Hamel and James Grant. They led us through an explanation of PDO and PGI, using four examples: Pecorino Toscano PDO [in order for the cheese to be granted a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) seal, all of the phases of production, transformation and processing must occur within a specific geographic area and with strict production rules established by the production regulations]; Costa d'Amalfi Lemon PGI [a European mark of quality granted to agricultural and food products which have at least ONE phase of the production process that is permanently linked to the specific geographic area of reference -- Protected Geographical Indication (PGI)]; Vermouth di Torino PGI with its many layers of ginger, flowers, organic citrus fruits, spritzers, Negroni, Martini, punches, bitters, spices, ABV levels of 17%, half of the wine used is from Piedmont, et al; and Olives from Greece, a part of the Agrifood Partnership of Western Greece Region. The Protected and Partnership systems are part of the DOP program for making sure that names of products are legitimate in terms of production values. For example, the Amalfi lemons must come from Amalfi and they are guaranteed as such -- or else the seller/distributor can be penalized. For more details on all of these, check with vermouth@vermouthditorino.org, or for lemons, info@costieragrumicoop.it, or info@pecorinotoscanodop.it, or for olives,  info@agrifoodwest.gr.







Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Wednesday, November 6, 2024

REPORT ON MARK ANTHONY LUXURY WINE TASTING SEPT. 24, 2024

REPORT ON MARK ANTHONY LUXURY WINE TASTING  SEPT. 24, 2024

The Date and Time: Tuesday September 24 2P - 4:30P
The Event: Mark Anthony Wine & Spirits Luxury Portfolio Tasting
The Venue: National Club
The Target Audience: Private collectors, sommeliers, wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: there were several catalogues available, including Mark Anthony, Declaration Wine & Spirits Inc., Bacchus Frechette, plus a more complete emailed pictorial catalogue that included all of them, will label illustrations and prices.
The Quote/Background: it was quite crowded shortly after 2PM
The Wines: several dozen producers and principals were in attendance -- a wealth of wines to be tasted. But of course I could not do them all -- about 200 plus wines spread over two large rooms. I only tasted table wines. Prices are licensee,not retail.

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Jayson by Pahlmeyer Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 $104.97
-Louis M. Martini Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon NV $47.59
-Brotte Bord Elegance Cotes du Rhone Villages Laudin 2023 [white grenache] $19.95 Vintages
-Castel Freres Chateau Cavalier Rose Provence 2023 $24.29
-Castel Freres Plessis-Duval Sancerre 2023 $41.81
-Garzon Single Vineyard Albarino $42.95 Vintages +646802
-Mission Hill Perpetus BC VQA 2021 $66  +934090
-Checkmate Fool's Mate Chardonnay 2020 BC VQA $95  Spring 2025
-Lanson Champagne Le Black Creation Brut NV $72.50
-Lanson Champagne Le Rose Creation NV $99.75
-Lanson Champagne Le Vintage 2013 $109.95
-Louis Latour Simonnet Febvre Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu 2021 $57.35
-Louis Latour Simonnet Febvre P100 $32.66
-Louis Latour Chateau Corton Grancey Red 2022 $250.60 Vintages  Spring 2025
-Louis Latour Corton Charlemagne 2022 $461.35 Vintages Spring 2025
-Attems Ramato Rose 2023 $19.95 Vintages +111732
-Rodney Strong Davis Bynum Chardonnay $34.95
-Rodney Strong Davis Bynum Russian River Pinot Noir $39.95
-Sena 2021 $210 Vintages +496430
-Beringer Private Reserve Napa Valley Chardonnay 2022 $79.95 Vintages +26682
-Henkell-Freixenet Segura Heredad NV $39.95 +558825 Vintages November
-Henkell-Freixenet Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Noirs NV $23.85


***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (87 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Rombauer Carneros Chardonnay Napa 2021 $55.55
-Louis M. Martini Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon $20.51
-Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough NZ $17.24
-Alois Lageder Terra Alpina Pinot Grigio 2023 $23.26
-Alois Lageder Gaun Chardonnay 2022 $34.48
-Brumont Chateau Bouscasse Jardins Philo white 2018 $28.70
-Chateau St Jean Chardonnay Carneros 2022 $55.95
-Castel Freres Chateau Ferrande Graves White 2021 $34.97
-Garzon Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2023 $19.95 Vintages +12678
-Martin's Lane Winery Simes Vineyard Riesling 2023 $55   Spring 2025
-Louis Latour Marsannay White 2022 $56.10 Vintages Spring 2025
-Arboleda Chardonnay 2022  $18.95 Vintages November +606772
-Treasury Wine Estates Luxury Frank Family Vineyards Chardonnay 2023 $59.95 Vintages +40333
-Wolf Blass Grey Label Shiraz 2021 $34.95 Vintages +390872


The Food: there was an enormous table with cheeses (manchego, danish blue) and cold cuts, plus diverse dried fruit and breads and biscuits.
The Downside: it was warm inside with the air conditioning off.
The Upside: a chance to try some really rare and/or expensive wines.
The Contact Person: hprice@markanthony.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 91


Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Tuesday, October 29, 2024

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for November 2, 2024 release.

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES:  under/over $20 for  November 2, 2024 release.

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at  https://pages.pathcom.com/~dtudor since 1994. These notes for  better or best wines available through  LCBO Vintages (on a bi-weekly basis)  can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca  or at https://pages.pathcom.com/~dtudor No winery can buy their way into – or out of – my publication.

Scores are a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, e.g. a Southern Rhone would taste like a Southern Rhone) and QPR (Quality/Price Ratio value in the marketplace, above or below its price).
I was one of the first to jump on the Robert Parker bandwagon, using numerical indications for my scores in the early 1980s. Why? Because with a database I could rate, rank and order wines in any fashion. It was just so convenient using databases. Unfortunately, the numerical system has been shown to be disgraced by overuse and "inflated numbers"; thus I have quit any ranking by number. From now on, it will just be GOOD, BETTER and BEST, which will give me some wiggle room (e.g. is this wine an 87, 88, 89, or 90? Or all of them...depends on my mood and time of day). With the rigorous standards and lab testing by the LCBO, I can safely say that every single wine at the LCBO is at least GOOD, which I would numerically rank at 75-85 points. For reasons of time and space, I will NOT be listing the GOOD wines. Just the BETTER (86-89) and the BEST (90+ ) wines. This spread of points will relate to SILVER and GOLD medals, with GOOD being BRONZE.  This also fits into my scheme for trade tastings.

MVC/QPR=BETTER (86-89)=my basic recommendation
MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )=superior

MAJOR THEME:  California  Premium Wines

Recommended Wines UNDER $20
=========================
Fizz+515221 STARS BRUT NATURE RESERVA CAVA 2022 SPAIN $17.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )=superior
W+518357 SIDEWOOD SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023 AUSTRALIA $18.95
W+606772 ARBOLEDA CHARDONNAY 2022 CHILE $18.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )=superior
W+38203 CHÂTEAU DOMI-COURS VITAE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023 BORDEAUX $16.95
W+438796 DOMAINE DE LA BAUME ELISABETH VIOGNIER 2022 LANGUEDOC $14.95  MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )=superior      
W+39302 LA PERRIÈRE CÔTEAUX DU GIENNOIS BLANC 2022 LOIRE $19.95
W+456020 RUSTENBERG STELLENBOSCH SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022 $15.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )=superior
W+37648 ZENATO PINOT GRIGIO VENEZIE 2023 $17.95
W+14199 INVIVO SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023 NEW ZEALAND $17.95
R+13113 FINCA SOPHENIA ALTOSUR MALBEC 2023 ARGENTINA $17.95
R+162529 SUSANA BALBO CRÍOS MALBEC 2022 ARGENTINA $17.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )=superior
 R+15495 3 RINGS SHIRAZ 2021 AUSTRALIA $17.95
R+23905 KNAPPSTEIN CLARE VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2021 $19.95
R+131540 FEATHERSTONE RED TAIL MERLOT 2021 VQA NIAGARA $19.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )=superior
R+37866 VENTISQUERO QUEULAT SINGLE VINEYARD GRAN RESERVA CABERNET CHILE $17.95
R+37799 MORANDÉ VITIS ÚNICA CARMENÈRE 2021 CHILE $18.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )=superior
R+38261 CHÂTEAU DUCASSE 2020 $16.95
R+630046 CHÂTEAU L'ESCADRE GRANDE RÉSERVE 2019 $19.95
R+354134 CHÂTEAU BELLEVUE LA FORÊT ORIGINAL 2020 $15.95
R+995704 ZENATO VALPOLICELLA SUPERIORE 2021 $17.95
R+278150 NIRO DI CITRA MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO 2021 $17.95
R+166439 MORGADO DE SILGUEIROS VINHO TINTO 2021 PORTUGAL $12.95
R+629832 HEREDAD DE URUEÑA SANTO TERROIR TEMPRANILLO 2015 SPAIN  $16.95

Recommended Wines OVER $20
=======================
W+558734 SUSANA BALBO SIGNATURE WHITE BLEND 2023 ARGENTINA $22.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )=superior
W+241182 CHARLES BAKER PICONE VINEYARD RIESLING 2021 VQA NIAGARA $44.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )=superior
W+41257 LIEBLING RIESLING 2022 VQA NIAGARA  $22
W+524959 DOMAINE BÈGUE-MATHIOT VAILLONS CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2022 $39.95
W+16012 VILLA MARIA CELLAR SELECTION HAWKE'S BAY CHARDONNAY 2022 $22.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )=superior
W+36872 SUMMERHOUSE MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023 $20.95
R+404137 TINTONEGRO LIMESTONE BLOCK MALBEC 2020  ARGENTINA $21.95
R+38506 SALENTEIN PYROS APPELLATION MALBEC 2019 $22.95
R+48470 TEUSNER THE RIEBKE SHIRAZ 2021 AUSTRALIA $22.95
R+10541 RYMILL COONAWARRA CLASSIC CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2019 $29.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )=superior
R+64380 THE FOREIGN AFFAIR DREAM 2020 VQA NIAGARA $29.95
R+208702 NORMAN HARDIE NIAGARA UNFILTERED PINOT NOIR 2020 VQA $49.20
R+304162 REIF RESERVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2019 VQA NIAGARA $34.95
R+40964 CHÂTEAU DE NAGES HÉRITAGE COSTIÈRES DE NÎMES 2022 $22.95
R+25826 SAN BIAGIO CAPALOT BAROLO 2017 $54.95
R+943290 FONTANAFREDDA SERRALUNGA D'ALBA BAROLO 2020 $52.95
R+421388 CASTELLI DEL GREVEPESA CLEMENTE VII CHIANTI CLASSICO 2020 $22.95
R+14857 CARPINETO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2019 $69.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )=superior
R+515502 BANFI FONTE ALLA SELVA CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE 2019 $37.95
R+39489 VALPANTENA TORRE DEL FALASCO VALPOLICELLA RIPASSO SUPERIORE $25.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )=superior
R+37724 CASA DE CAMBRES GRANDE RESERVA 2017 PORTUGAL $27.95
R+114454 BORDÓN GRAN RESERVA 2013 RIOJA $27.95
R+315531 LA RIOJA ALTA VIÑA ARDANZA RESERVA 2016  $59.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )=superior


LIMITED TIME OFFERS: Some Recommended Wines from the LCBO's Limited Time Offer selections...these  are "better" value wines...on sale  through November 10 --

WHITE -
+158683 LA CREMA MONTEREY CHARDONNAY Monterey, California,  NOW $27.95 Save $2
+89037 TAWSE SKETCHES OF NIAGARA CHARDONNAY VOA Niagara, NOW $19.95 Save $2

RED -
+352583 BERINGER KNIGHTS VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON Sonoma County, California,
NOW $44.95 Save $5
+328567 CATHEDRAL CELLAR CABERNET SAUVIGNON WO Western Cape, South Africa,
NOW $16.95 Save $3
+226035 CHATEAU TEYSSIER AC Montagne-Saint-Emilion, NOW $24.95 Save $3
+59311 THE SEVEN DEADLY ZINS OLD VINE ZINFANDEL Lodi, California, now $21.95, save $3
+964221 LE VOLTE DELL'ORNELLAIA IGT Tuscany,  NOW $28.95 Save $3
+353201 Ruffino Riserva Ducale Oro Gran Selezione Chianti Classico DOCG Tuscany, now $44.95, save $5
+145920 Tenuta Frescobaldi di Castiglioni IGT Tuscany, now $21.95, save $3
+303800 Trius Red VQA Niagara, now $24.95, save $3

** Some New Wines I Tasted Over the Past Season ---

REPORT FROM TASTIN' FRANCE: 17TH ANNUAL TRADE TASTING ROADSHOW IN CANADA

The Date and Time: Monday July 11 11AM to 4PM
The Event: Business France wine and spirits tasting for businesses seeking representation in Ontario.
The Venue: Park Hyatt, Terrace Room
The Target Audience: wine agents, media
The Availability/Catalogue: there was a catalogue of some 12 wine producers with label descriptions of their wines plus a concise history of the firm, with production figures and importation distribution.
The Quote/Background: No prices were listed since this meeting was at the wholesale level and there was room for flexible pricing.
The Wines: over 100 wines from eight regions were available for sampling with the available producers. I did not try all the wines, and I did not try any of the spirits.  

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-C Adele Monavin AOP Champagne Blanc de Blancs
-Bouvet Ladubay Brut de Loire AOP Saumur Brut [trad. met] $18?
-Bouvet Ladubay Saphir Brut de Loire AOP Saumur Brut 2022 [trad. met]
-Bouvet Ladubay Excellence AOP Cremant  de Loire Brut  [trad. met]
-Bouvet Ladubay Excellence AOP Cremant  de Loire Rose Brut  [trad. met]
-Bouvet Ladubay Tresor AOP Saumur Brut 2020 [trad. met]
-Bouvet Ladubay Zero  AOP Saumur Brut Nature 2020 [trad. met]
-Chateau de Poncie AOC Beaujolais Villages Blanc 2021
-Domaine de Mayol Oplezir Rose 2023 AOP Luberon
-Anne de Joyeuse Camas Syrah Rose 2023 IGP Pays d'Oc
-Anne de Joyeuse Very Chardonnay Limoux Blanc 2022 AOP Pays d'Oc
-Vignerons Mais Autrement Orange Blossom Sauvignon Gris IGP Atlantique Orange
-Comtesse de Saint Pey White AOP Cremant de Bordeaux Blanc
-Les Vignerons Reunis de Monsegur Chateau des Rois Blanc 2023 AOC Bordeaux
-SARL Monavin M Rose by Monavin Monaco AOC Cotes de Provence 2023
-SARL Monavin M AOC  Cremant de Loire
-SARL Monavin  M Sauvignon Blanc AOP Touraine 2022
-DIVA Dampt Daniel Chablis 2022 AOC Chablis 2022
-DIVA Lapalus AOC Macon Milly Lamartine 2022 [con. small winemakers $33.50]


***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (87 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Jean Aubron Les Bulles Petillant Naturel Melon Blanc Vin de France
-Jean Aubron Contact Vin Orange Melon Blanc Vin de France
-Domaine de Mayol Cuvee Classique Blanc 2023 AOP Luberon
-Anne de Joyeuse Camas Chardonnay 2023 IGP Pays d'Oc
-Anne de Joyeuse Camas Sauvignon Blanc 2023 IGP Pays d'Oc
-Vignerons Mais Autrement Chateau Roberperote Cuvee Olivia 2018 AOP Bordeaux Superieur Rouge
-Vignerons Mais Autrement Black & Wine Blanc de Noirs 2023 IGP Atlantique Blancs de Noirs
-Les Vignerons Reunis de Monsegur Edmond Barbe Sparkling Vin de France
-SARL Monavin M AOP Graves by Monavin Monaco 2023 Bordeaux
-DIVA Girardin Benoit AOC Santenay Blanc "Les Champs Claude" 2022
-Sequentis Reflet Floreal Organic 2023 Vin de France Cepages Resistants (and two others: Sequentis Tandem Blanc with Souvignier Gris and Floreal; Sequentis Miroir Rouge with Vidoc and Monarch)

The Food: typical cold cuts and cheeses platters, with breads and crisps and fruit.
The Downside: nothing really
The Upside:lots of room and lots of time to explore the wines
The Contact Person: laetitia.miroux@businessfrance.fr
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 93






Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Thursday, October 24, 2024

A SELECTION OF RECENT BOOKS FROM ROBERT ROSE AND FROM FIREFLY AND FROM TOUCHWOOD AND OTHERS -- more than a baker's dozen for Christmas gifting !!!

A SELECTION OF RECENT BOOKS FROM ROBERT ROSE AND FROM FIREFLY AND FROM TOUCHWOOD AND OTHERS -- more than a baker's dozen for Christmas gifting !!!

1.MASTERING AUTHENTIC CREPES & GALETTES (Robert Rose, 2020, 2024, 148 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0720-9 $29.95 CAD softbound) is by Bertrand Larcher, founder of Breizh Cafe in Brittany. The 2024 version is an English translation of the 2020 French original. Here are fifty sweet and savoury recipes (many involving buckwheat flour), presented by season. Crepes are normally made with all-purpose flour and sweets; galettes are normally made with buckwheat and savouries (and they are a bit larger than crepes so they can serve as a main dish). In addition to the usual step-by-step instructions for perfect recipe preparations, the text gives us many useful tips and keys from other crepiers. Larcher also introduces some 20 other restaurants from around the world who have furnished preps and tips of detailed data for batters. Folding and presentation are also covered with step-by-step photos. A La Crepe Bretonne was my go-to restaurant in Montreal - I think I ate every menu item at least once over the course of two years. Typical winter recipes include almond cream crepe with toasted almonds, Tatin-style apple crepe, orange butter and candied orange crepe with vanilla ice cream, and mashed carrot, cumin, cilatro and shrimp galette. Ingredients are listed with both Imperial and Metric measurements. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.


2.THE SPICE & HERB BIBLE 3rd edition (Robert Rose, 2000, 2002, 2006, 2014, 800 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0493-2 $49.95 CAD softbound) is by Ian Hemphill, who runs an international spice store, with recipes from Kate Hemphill, who is a chef and food writer also works at the spice store. More details on both are at www.herbies.com.au. The book is a revised and expanded edition of the 2nd edition (2006) and incorporating another book (Spice Notes) from 2002. There are more than 170 recipes here the complement the spices and herbs; the book is an ACP Award winner and a James Beard nominee. The Hemphills offer major descriptions of about 100 culinary herbs and spices: origins, histories, buying, storage, processing and usage. The third section is the one detailing the art of blending herbs and spices; there are 66 blends here. All preps have both Imperial and Metric measurements, plus listings of prep times, cooking times, and "tips" - the latter usually has a wealth of substitutions. For example, if you do not have access to "alexanders" (black lovage, potherb) then you can suitably use a mix of parsley leaves and celery leaves (3 to 1 ratio). Another example: the info under "allspice" goes on for 7 pages, and is quite through. The book has a good typeface size for the index. Strongly recommended for its detail, although the sheer weight of the book may limit its constant use -- unless you have a dictionary stand. I'd prefer to use an ebook version (no weight) to print off a recipe. Quality/Price rating is 94 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.

3.300 SENSATIONAL SOUPS (Robert Rose, 2008, 384 pages, ISBN 978-0-
7788-0196-2, $29.95 CAD softbound) is by Carla Snyder and
Meredith Deeds, both food writers living in the US Midwest. It's a reissue. This is a nice database of classics and contemporary soups, along with international preps such as pho, harira, minestrone, or African peanut soup. It is arranged by major ingredient. There are separate chapters for meat, veggies, beans, cheese, poultry, fish, and styles such as chowders, cold soups, and dessert soups. At the beginning there are notes on soup stocks, and at the end, there are notes on garnishes and toppings. As is standard with any Rose cookbook, the ingredients are expressed in both Imperial and Metric measurements, the typeface is clean and lean and large, and there is plenty of white space for adding your own notes.
Some interesting or unusual recipes: veal burgoo, chilled curried
pear soup, chicken-squash-sausage soup, lasagna soup, arugula soup with salmon and roasted grape tomatoes, guacamole soup. A nifty collection, only two bucks more than when first published. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.

4.ENERGY BITES FOR EVERYONE (Robert Rose, 2023, 2024, 192 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-07216, $24.95 CAD paperbound) is by Sonia Lizotte, a Montreal-based food stylist and author of best-selling food books. It was originally published in French in 2023; this is the English translation. These 80 recipes are touted as flavour bombs for all tastes and moods - pep, sweet tooth, savoury, unique flavours. The basic recipe gives you the techniques of creating the bites and using a small ice cream scoop to form the ball-bite. Everything here is healthy, if taken in moderation. And with 80 bites there is a three month time period for rotations. A good way to use up some crumbs as well, from leftover cakes or brownies, or just made from scratch. There are occasional preps that call for baking but otherwise it is all ball-bite creations similar in size to meatballs. Great ideas for families and young kids. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.

5.THE WILD WEST COOKBOOK: cowboy comfort food. 2d ed. (Robert Rose 1998, 2024, 208 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0725-4, $24.95 CAD paperbound) is by Cinda Chavich, a long-time food writer and editor [check her out at TasteReport.com] If you think of the Wild West as an old place almost forgotten, then do remember that the book was originally published in the last century. The second edition has ben revised and updated with newer materials. There's a short history of cowboy campfire cooking, followed by the wild west pantry of mostly "B" words: beans, beef, beer, berries, bourbon, biscuits and bison. Jerky, mushrooms, and grains complete the picture. The arrangement of the book is traditional: apps, soups, salads, poultry, red meats, fish, veggies, baking and desserts. Scattered throughout are cowboy foods such as many forms of chili and baked beans and cowboy flapjacks. Good historical and photographic lore as well. Typical apps include smoky cowboy quesadillas, pemmican patties, prairie oysters (of course), chipotle wings, black bean nachos. Soup is the easiest thing to make over the open fire: fresh corn chowder; wild mushroom soup, black beans and sausage gumbo. A very charming giftbook to the man in your life. Try some cowboy pasta with ranchero sauce or frybread tostadas or chuckwagon beef shortribs and beans.
Ingredients are listed with both Imperial and Metric measurements.
Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.

6.PATISSERIE REVOLUTION: the healthy baking bible (Robert Rose, 2023, 2024, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0724-7, $44.95 CAD hardbound) is by renowned pastry chef Johanna Le Pape (she's a world champion of confectionery arts)and dietitian Melanie Frechon. It was originally published in French in 2023; this is the English translation. The book is a complete ingredient reference for gluten-free, low-GI, dairy-free and vegan pastry. Le Pape has an extensive list of alternatives to wheat flour, beginning with almond flour through white teff flour -- thirty-three in all. Plus the various starches (tapioca, corn, arrowroot, et al. For each she has critical notes on sources, nutrients, and uses. And then there are her exacting pairing flours, which is a table of equivalents to combine various flours by their weights -- very useful for replacing wheat flours. An example: 30% soy flour plus 40% brown rice flour plus 40% corn flour for one blend. The authors divide the book into ingredient families, moving from flours through sugars, milks, yogourts, fats, eggs, fruits and veggies. The actual recipes begin on page 159, with, of course, basic preps followed by classic preps, and some thirty pages for original creations. This is a well-developed resource and reference book for those who wish to enter the pasty business or for the home cook using gluten-free products by necessity. Lovingly illustrated. Ingredients are listed with both Imperial and Metric measurements. Quality/Price rating is 93 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.


7.THE COMPLETE GOUT MANAGEMENT & NUTRITION GUIDE: empowering strategies for better health (Robert Rose, 2024, 256 pages, ISBN 978-07788-0723-0, $29.95 CAD paperbound) is by gout rheumatologist Diana Girnita and dietitian Doug Cook. I found the book informative and fascinating: note -- I've had gout since the last century. I've got good company with about one million other gout sufferers in Canada. Her book tells us all we need to know about gout: how to identify the disease, how to choose between the various treatments and how nutrition can help to mange the symptoms. For the most part, it matters to avoid medication when you can get nutrition at home by simply avoiding "rich flavoured foods" that are loaded with purines (HFCS or high-fructose corn syrup, soda pop, red meat, organ meats, seafood, beer, and lots of water. This book proposes a meal plan to reduce and manage gout attacks -- in 100 recipes. She begins with a section on everything you need to know about gout. That's 100 pages. The remainder of the book is about food preps, beginning from breakfast to lunch to dinner, with material on soups and salads plus side dishes. The recipes come from 21 books that are also published by Robert Rose. One book example is "200 Easy Mexican Recipes", from which was pulled a prep for chicken mole and a prep for red enchilada sauce. The Mediterranean Diet seems most appropriate with minimally processed whole ingredients. This Diet, along with a handful of nuts everyday [mostly walnuts], reduces blood uric acid levels. The preps here have a "gout-friendly meal plan" for four weeks of 96 breakfasts, lunches, snacks, and dinners -- more than enough time to make sure you can eat your way through everything but not get bored with the repeats. The preps are formatted like all Robert Rose cookbooks, with both Imperial and Metric measurements printed in columns side-by-side to the ingredients, serving sizes, heating instructions, special equipment needed, tips, nutrient listings, serving ideas, and variations. There is an index, but unfortunately only to the recipes. Quality/Price rating is 94 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.

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FIREFLY BOOKS: illustrated guides to Asian cuisines and food cultures.


1.CHINESE CUISINE: recipes and anecdotes from Chinese gastronomic culture (Firefly Books, 2024, 128 pages, ISBN 978-0-2281-0515-2, $19.95 CAD paperbound) is by Margot Zhang and Zhao en Yang. Margot is a chef and teacher; Zhao En Yang is the illustrator. This book, like the other three in this series, was originally published in French in 2023. So here is the English translation, and I've included below the other three books drawn from previous reviews. It's quite a chase trying to condense the entire Chinese society into a 128 page book. But they did it -- with recipes covering staple foods, essential dishes, festivals and traditions, pastries and drinks. Typical are wontons with pork and shrimp, lion's head meatballs, mapo tofu, mushroom hotpot and ginger milk pudding. There's an introduction to the various utensils (chopsticks, bamboo steamers, woks, chopping tools), sauces and broths, and the importance of oyster sauce and chillies. There are eight different regional Chinese cuisines, and these are all covered by main ingredients, meats, herbal medicines and street foods, among other items. As with the other three books in this series there are full-colour illustrations for everything. Zhao's people, products, and techniques are cleverly presented. Ingredients are listed with both Imperial and Metric measurements. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.


2.VIETNAMESE CUISINE; recipes and anecdotes from Vietnamese gastronomic culture (Firefly Books, 2023, 128 pages, ISBN 978-0-2281-0442-1 $19.95 CAD soft bound) is by Nathalie Nguyen, with great watercolour illustrations by Melody Ung. It was originally published in French in France in 2022. This edition is the third in a Firefly series (the other two dealt with illustrated cuisines of Japan and of Korea). There are 30 recipes, each with text about the plate's place in culinary history. And yes, Vietnam cuisine does have its own version of peanut sauce (a no-heat recipe is included). Typical dishes include banh mi, of course), but also Vietnamese pancakes, pho bo, nem chua, and caramelized fish. There is a lot going on here: in addition to recipes, there are memoir materials, anecdotes, histories and background. For the food itself, there is in-depth coverage on techniques, utensils, and Vietnamese ingredients. It's a colourful book since all of the illustrations are watercolours of food, utensils, finished plates, meal composition, tableware, staples, condiments and sauces. These are everyday dishes. A top book. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.
 

3.KOREAN CUISINE; an illustrated guide (Firefly Books, 2022, 128 pages, ISBN 978-0-2281-0389-9 $19.95 CAD paperbound) is by Luna Kyung, who lives in Paris and has written books about Korean food. Ahnji is a Korean illustrator and graphic designer who also lives in France, and is a co-author. Their book was originally published in French, in France, in 2021   this is the English translation. There is a lot going on here; in addition to recipes, there are memoir materials, anecdotes, histories and background. For the food itself, there is in-depth coverage on techniques, utensils, and Korean ingredients. It's a colourful book since all of the illustrations are watercolours of food, utensils, finished plates, meal composition, tableware, staples, condiments and sauces. These are everyday dishes. But just one thought: there is no pork neck bone soup recipe. I've noticed this omission in many recent Korean cookbooks, no doubt because pork neck bones are difficult to obtain, even from a butcher. The closest  bone  to find is either hock trotter or spare rib bone, and even these can be hard to find, especially (for the latter) in grilling season. I mention all of this because I regard pork neck bone soup (Gamjatang), along with Bipimbap, to be a quintessential Korean dish. You can easily check out the ingredients through the Internet. It is worth trying to do because of its bounty of flavours, even if you have to use spare ribs where is no real difference in flavour, although neck fans may question that assumption. Kyung's book is full of vast quantities of everyday dishes, fermented foods, noodles, party dishes, temple food, street food, lucky foods, and even North Korean specialties. This is an extremely useful book. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.


4.JAPANESE CUISINE; an illustrated guide (Firefly Books, 2021,  128 pages, $19.95 softbound) is by Laurie Kie and Haruna Kishi. Kie has written many other Japanese cookbooks; Kishi is a Japanese illustrator. This little nifty reference work contains many recipes, anecdotes, histories, stories, maps, techniques, stylings, utiensils, native ingredients   all wonderfully illustrated with watercoloured drawings. It can answer many questions: how to make sushi, miso soup, bento boxes; how to use Japanese knives, chopsticks, cooking vessels, seaweed. There is a special section on ramen and its many distinctive regional variations. Very lovingly produced, right down to the Japanese pictographs. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.
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TOUCHWOOD BOOKS

1.HUBARB; new and classic recipes for sweet and savory dishes (Touchwood Editions, 2019, 2022, 112 pages, ISBN 978-1-77151-404-0, $25 CAD hardbound) is by Soren Staun Petersen, a Danish recipe developer and food stylist. He had earlier written Surprise with Pumpkin in 2018. This current work was originally published in Denmark in 2019 and subsequently translated into English in 2022. Rhubarb fits into the superfood category with its fibre, vitamin C, potassium, calcium and anti-oxidants. His 35 preps here cover some savoury items such as pizza bianca, chicken with pearl barley, and  sweets such as pavlova with rhubarb, rhubarb banana bread--- even rhubarb chips. There are eight compote preps that deal with cheesecake, trifle, and pancakes. And of course, chutneys and relishes are useful companions with the BBQ grill. He's even got four drinks such as rhubarb gin and rhubarb mule (coriander smash is a marvel). Good stuff for rhubarb lovers. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.


2.THE DAVISON ORCHARDS COOKBOOK; favourite recipes from the farm and family (Touchwood Editions, 2024, 294 pages, ISBN 978-1-77151435-4, $44.10 CAD, hardbound) is by multi-generation family members Rachel Davison, Tamra Davison, and Laura Shaw, from Davison Orchards (founded 1933). They've given us 100+ recipes. On one level it's a regional-tourist cookbook with memoir material and pix of the people and the farm associated with food from the area. On another level, it's a pretty good introduction to family food from the Okanagan Valley in British Columbia. There is an arrangement by course (breakfast, mains, et al) with extras on quick breads, preservation of fruits and veggies, desserts, sweets, and beverages. It's all very family oriented, and makes for a great gift. For example, in the book, garlic appears everywhere, and in the index it is listed as an ingredient in 23 dishes. And, thankfully, there is a really good comprehensive metric conversion chart as well as a very readable typeface font size for the index. It's all lovingly presented. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.


3.SWEET GREEK; authentic recipes for every occasion (Touchwood Editions, 2013, 2023, 248 pages, ISBN 978-1-77151415-6, $45 CAD hardbound) is by Kathy Tsaples who grew up in Melbourne. In 2012 she opened a stall, Sweet Greek, at the Prhan Market selling baked goods and prepared meals. This current book was released in Australia in 2013, and now has been revised for the North American market in 2023. It's another regional-tourist cookbook with many memoir words and photos on family and friends and locations. It's a Greek cookbook stocked with Mediterranean pantry staples; 90 preps cover the Greek Orthodox calendar as well as national holidays -- there are individual chapters for each one with feasts strewn about. So you have Christmas, New Year, Easter, Palm Sunday, Lent, as well as a summer family feast, the family feast before Lent, the everyday family feast, hearty winter meals, and more. All ending up with a large 40 page chapter on sweets. Psomi (bread), tyri (cheese) and olives are the Holy Trinity as they form the foundation of Greek cuisine. Basics here include tomato fritters, marinated olives, souvlaki, tzatziki, and feta dip. For a large family dinner you cannot beat slow-roasted chicken, artichokes, peas, tomatoes and potatoes, followed by any or all of yogurt cake with lemon, rice pudding, sesame seed slab, biscotti, honey walnut biscuits, honey doughnuts, marzipan pears, moist semolina cake, and fig sweet. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.


4.THE SIPSTER'S POCKET GUIDE TO 50 MUST-TRY ONTARIO WINES volume 1 (Touchwood Editions, 2023, 146 pages, ISBN 978-1-77151-421-7, $20 CAD softbound) is by  Luke Whittall, wine instructor at Okanagan College and author of a variety of Sipster's pocket guides, and other books dealing with BC wines. Currently, he also has sipsterswinepodcast.ca to check out. The portable pocket guides to Ontario and BC wines (there are three in the BC series for 150 wines) are very approachable in style, zeroing in on experiences, good company, and "where a wine might take your thoughts" or attitudes. He lists fifty of these on the inside French cover, one per wine, ranging from "abrupt" through "friendly" through "vacation" -- even "singalong". It's a good idea to get away from regular tasting notes, as he does. Each wine comes with a photo, and I happened across one of my faves: the 2017 Rose Traditional Methode from Chateau des Charmes. Price ranges are listed for all, and this wine gets "four wine glasses" to indicate $30 - $40. His gloss says the body is light and the sweetness is dry. He suggests pairing with spinach salad, chicken skewers and picnics. There's an excellent index, with subdivisions of the broad categories "activity pairing", "light body to medium to full body", "grapes", "prices", "food pairing", "wine pairing", "wineries", et al. A good book for the bored wine drinker who wants a new outlook on some of the best wines in Ontario. For BC wines, try THE SIPSTER'S POCKET GUIDE TO 50 MUST-TRY BC WINES volumes 1-3 (Touchwood Editions, 146 pages apiece, $20 CAD each, softbound. Quality/Price Rating: 89, by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.


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DINING OUT WITH HISTORY; at Atlantic Canada's historic sites (Fitzhenry & Whiteside, 2022, 2024, 208 pages, ISBN 978-1-554556274, $19.95 CAD paperbound) is by Jan Feduk, It was originally put out by the author in 2022, but this is its national 2024 publication. As the publisher summarizes, "Twenty living history sites that offer us a taste of the past in Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, New Brunswick, Newfoundland and Labrador". Twelve are in Nova Scotia, PEI has two as does New Brunswick, and four are from Newfoundland and Labrador. Each chapter tours an historic site, tells a tale and shares a few recipes (there are 34 preps in all). She shows the links for the themes of food, work and life for each site. Sketch maps and historical photos illustrate most of the book, but there are also colour pix for the buildings, the cooks, and for the presentations or techniques. Sure to be everybody's fave is from Battle Harbour in Labrador: fish and brewis, a staple with the fishermen (salted fish, hard bread, fat back pork and onions)-- basic but also yum-yum as umami. Other dishes include Balmoral Oatcakes, Bonnach, Eel Stew, "eggs in the snow", flummies, and assorted pies, biscuits and breads. Nothing elaborate -- just good food from the time period. Perhaps we could get a "volume two" from Ms. Feduk, to cover Western Canada and a volume three for Upper and Lower Canada. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.


HEALTHY COMFORT FOODS; gluten-free, diabetic friendly, and keto recipes (Boulder Books, 2024, 304 pages, ISBN 978-1-989417-88-1, $34.95 CAD hardbound) is by Bobbi Pike, an East Coast Canada health coach and recipe developer; this is her third cookbook. She's got 150 recipes here that easily displace the "grab and go" processed food plates, but still maintain the naturally healthy style of current comfort foods. The table of contents is conveniently broken down into courses such as appetizers, snacks, breakfast, soups, stews, vegetables, sides, fish, meat, desserts, and sauces, ending with five pages of pantry items (all of which come mostly from health-food stores and can be used in this book's preps). Interesting dishes include cranberry meatballs, avocado BLT chaffle, fennel soup, taco soup, iman bayildi, turmeric-crusted cod with tomato jam, pork chops with mushroom ragout, chocolate chip cookie skillet, roly poly, spinach dip and cheese ball. Ingredients are listed with Imperial measurements, but there is no metric scale nor a table of metric/imperial equivalents. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.


Both of the following two books are good examples of a leading category of cookbooks: the regional culinary link of tourism and food, with emphasis on local markets and personalities, photography, and relatively simple food. These two books have both Imperial and American measurements listed for their ingredients.
-COCINA DE ANDALUCIA; Spanish recipes from the land of a thousand landscapes (Ryland Peters & Small, 2024, 192 pages, ISBN 978-1-78879-587-6, $40.96 CAD hardbound) is by Maria Jose Sevilla, an award-winning Spanish food and wine expert and chef and broadcaster. It's a very well-put together book emphasizing all eight of the region's provinces. Andalucia itself is the largest area of Spain, with a culinary history from Moorish, Christian and Jewish influences. Each prep has a short intro about its character and the local people who live there. Most prominent for us in North America are the imported specialties of Iberico hams, olive oils, sherry vinegars, and olives. Many of the 80 preps are simple and/or spicy peasant dishes such as molletes Andaluces (bread rolls with tomatoes, olive oil and Iberico ham). The contents are listed as tapas and raciones (larger food items), followed by breads, veggies, fish, meats and desserts. Typical are potato omelette, chorizo in sherry, marinated olives, shrimp fritters, eggplant with molasses, and salt cod dishes.
-CYPRIANA; vibrant recipes inspired by the food of Greece & Cyprus (Ryland Peters & Small, 2019, rev. ed. 2024, 208 pages, ISBN 978-1-78879-601-9, $42 CAD hardbound) is by Theo Michaels (who was born into a large Greek Cypriot family), a bona fide executive chef and author of six other cookbooks. The first edition was in 2019, but the book has been nicely refreshed for a new audience. He's got 80 preps especially meant for summer grilling, meze, and salads. An example is the pork fillet with smoky white beans and pickled apricot salsa (fasolada me hirino fileto kai saltsa verykoko). Recipes are headed in English and in demotic Greek. Both Imperial and metric sizes are noted. Orzo, roasted tomato, and feta salad really appealed to me, as did grilled eggplants with feta. Both books earn a Quality/Price rating of 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.



A trio of small books: BURGERS (Ryland Peters & Small, 2024, 128 pages, ISBN 978-1-78879-600-2, $16.19 CAD hardbound) with 60 preps for patties, divided into  classics, sliders, vegan, and "international" -- along with sauces and sides; TACOS (Ryland Peters & Small, 2024, 128 pages, ISBN 978-1-78879-589-0, $16.19 CAD hardbound) with 60 preps for fillings, salsa and sides pertaining to meat, seafood, vegetarian, and breakfast; and VEGAN SNACKS (Ryland Peters & Small, 2024, 128 pages, ISBN 978-1-78879-579-1, $16.19 CAD hardbound) with 60 preps for plant-based bites for breakfast, grazing, bar bites and sweet treats. All three are relevant and all three are based on prior books from Ryland Peters & Small. Still, both metric and imperial measurements have been incorporated this time. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.


If you need more heavy duty "seriously good" BBQ stuff, then it is time to bring out the SERIOUSLY GOOD BARBECUE COOKBOOK (Fox Chapel Publishing, 2024, 176 pages, ISBN 978-1-4971-0475-4, $26.99 CAD softbound). This oversized book is authored by best-selling Brian Baumgartner and his team. He's got over 100 of some of the best recipes covering the major styles of US BBQ: Kansas city-style, Texas-style (central, eastern), deep south (Alabama, Florida, Georgia, Kentucky, Memphis, North Carolina) and other regional styles for Oklahoma, West Coast, Northwest, New Jersey, Hawaii, Montana, and Midwest. All the variations seem to have been covered, so the book becomes encyclopedic with the addition of seafood, sides, sauces, rubs, marinades, and sweets. Juicy all the way, especially my fave -- the pork belly burnt ends (a riff on brisket burnt ends). Imperial measurements. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.


On a similar note, I've been reading through the 250 winning recipes from the World Food Championships held in Arkansas: BURGERS & BACON COOKBOOK, Fox Chapel Publishing, 2024, 184 pages, ISBN 978-1-4971-0455-6, $31.99 CAD softbound. The WFC has 11 category-specific competitions over the course of one week, and these 250 preps have been pulled from major areas such as "sweet and savory bacon dishes", "aioli, cheese sauces, and chutneys", "buns and bases" plus sides, jams and spreads. Many techniques and flavours are discussed here, including meat blends, great cheeses for toppings, sauce injectors, and "perfect" buns. Thoroughly comprehensive with lots of notes and photographs and commentaries by the teams. Well-worth reading on its own. Imperial measurements. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.


For a more relaxed take on BBQ with a theme of entertaining, then the cookbook du jour, by Valerie Aikman-Smith, is SUMMER FEASTING FROM THE FIRE, Ryland Peters & Small, 2013, 2014, 2018, 2014, 208 pages, ISBN 978-1-78879-586-9 $40.96 CAD hardbound...in addition to BBQ there are appetizers, salads, sides, drinks, and desserts. Ms. Aikman-Smith is a food stylist working for movies and TV shows, plus editorials, commercials, print and advertising campaigns. She has regularly published with Ryland over the past decade, and her current book embraces the best of her previous books SMOKE & SPICE, PICKLED & PACKED, and FEAST FROM THE FIRE. There's more than 90 preps here, including basic material on pantry staples. It's a complete work based on an updating of her earlier writings. "Small bites" is my fave section, with recipes of typical dishes such as empanadas, rillettes, pork belly tacos, fish tacos, crab cakes, shrimp hushpuppies, quesadillas, and grilled halloumi. It's well worth a look for innovative entertaining ideas. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.


SENSATIONAL SALADS; more that 75 creative & vibrant recipes (Ryland Peters & Small, 2024, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-78879-594-4, $34 CAD hardbound) is by Kathy Kordalis. Alongside the new recipes in this book are those previously published by RPS in five other books, including "Mediterranean Summer Table". Salads are easy enough to put together, but the awkward part is having on hand the ingredients to mesh. So you'll need a pantry. And salads can be made more substantial by adding cheese, eggs and meats to the final product. Her book is full of ideas, starting from the diverse bases beyond the usual leafiness, followed by the dressing that can range from minimal to lavish. In between there are veggies that you can crunch, proteins and fat, croutons (of course), and nuts/seeds. Most of the recipes have American and Imperial measurements. To me, what makes a salad is the collection of herbs and spices that are added at the finish, and Kathy Kordalis gives us all a wide variety...yum, yum. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.


SURF-SIDE EATING; simple & fresh recipes for summer inspired by coastal living (Ryland Peters & Small, 2020, 2024, 176 pages, ISBN 978-1-78879-603-3 $39 CAD hardbound) is a collaborative
edition with collected preps from 12 RPS cookbook authors. 27 recipes come from Valerie Aikman-Smith; just one recipe apiece can be attributed to three other authors. Most other writers here have 10 to 12 recipes each. The preps are arranged by course: breakfast/brunch, salads and sides, BBQ, dinners at sunset. You can expect seafood, of course, such as shrimp, scallops, mussels, squid, fish tacos (now found everywhere), and lighter summer-y meats such as chicken. If you are at the seaside then this is a good book for guidance on beach food and drinks on the light side. Both American and Imperial measurements are used. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.

I'LL HAVE THE RISOTTO!; 50 delicious recipes for Italian rice dishes (Ryland Peters & Small, 2011, 2015, 2018, 2024, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-78879-596-8, $22.25 CAD hardbound) is by Maxine Clark, one of the RPS stalwarts in its cookbook series. It was first published in 2011, and has been through a few turns since then to include a few additions from three other RPS contributors. Select risottos include arancini di riso di siciliane, artichoke and pecorino risotto, roasted garlic risotto with goats' cheese -- all covering a range of veggies, cheeses, eggs, poultry, red meats, bacon and sausages, and seafood. Most of the preps have metric measurements but a few still also add some Imperial measurements -- which could be confusing if you switch back and forth.  Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.



THE SIPSTER'S POCKET GUIDE TO 50 MUST-TRY ONTARIO WINES volume 1 (Touchwood Editions, 2023, 146 pages, ISBN 978-1-77151-421-7, $20 CAD softbound) is by  Luke Whittall, wine instructor at Okanagan College and author of a variety of Sipster's pocket guides, and other books dealing with BC wines. Currently, he also has sipsterswinepodcast.ca to check out. The portable pocket guides to Ontario and BC wines (there are three in the BC series for 150 wines) are very approachable in style, zeroing in on experiences, good company, and "where a wine might take your thoughts" or attitudes. He lists fifty of these on the inside French cover, one per wine, ranging from "abrupt" through "friendly" through "vacation" -- even "singalong". It's a good idea to get away from regular tasting notes, as he does. Each wine comes with a photo, and I happened across one of my faves: the 2017 Rose Traditional Methode from Chateau des Charmes. Price ranges are listed for all, and this wine gets "four wine glasses" to indicate $30 - $40. His gloss says the body is light and the sweetness is dry. He suggests pairing with spinach salad, chicken skewers and picnics. There's an excellent index, with subdivisions of the broad categories "activity pairing", "light body to medium to full body", "grapes", "prices", "food pairing", "wine pairing", "wineries", et al. A good book for the bored wine drinker who wants a new outlook on some of the best wines in Ontario. For BC wines, try THE SIPSTER'S POCKET GUIDE TO 50 MUST-TRY BC WINES volumes 1-3 (Touchwood Editions, 146 pages apiece, $20 CAD each, softbound. Quality/Price Rating: 89, by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.

IN CASE YOU MISSED THEM, HERE ARE SOME EARLIER BOOK REVIEW FROM MARCH 2024 ---

RECIPES FROM MY INDIAN KITCHEN; traditional & modern recipes for delicious home-cooked food (Ryland Peters & Small, 2017, 2024, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-78879-516-6 $34 CAD hardbound) is by Nitisha Patel, a professional chef doing recipe development and food consulting in the UK. It was originally published in 2017 as "My Modern Indian Kitchen" but these are also her family recipes from India, for over 60 preps of home-cooked Indian food. She has some cultural notes in her primer on spices and then moves on to street food, curries, vegetarian dishes, sides, rice, chutney, raita, and desserts. Preparations have their ingredients listed in mostly avoirdupois measurements (except for the desserts which are scaled, for the most part), but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: Indian food lovers looking for modern interpretations.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: amritsari fish pakoras; keralan king prawn curry; malabari mussels; tandoori spatchcock poussin; veg manchurian; goan sausage and king prawn pilaf.
The downside to this book: a little thin on the number of recipes
The upside to this book: colourful, good memoir material in each recipe. Quality/Price Rating: 88, by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.


THE SCANDIKITCHEN COOKBOOK; recipes for good food with love from Scandinavia (Ryland Peters & Small, 2015, 2024, 176 pages, ISBN 978-1-78879-599-9 $35 CAD hardbound) is by Bronte Aurell, Danish restaurateur and TV food celebrity, who runs the ScandiKitchen Cafe and shop in central London along with her Swedish husband. It was originally published in 2015 as "The Scandi Kitchen". She has also been published widely. Here she has an introduction to Scandinavian food through 75 dishes for all occasions. The contents begin with a pantry/larder, and move on to breakfast, open sandwiches, smorgasbord with soups and salads and light dishes, followed by dinner and desserts. There is even a chapter on fika (get-together with coffee with cakes). Try the breakfast open sandwich, shrimp and asparagus open sandwich, a Nordic Christmas, or traditional Danish apple trifle as individual servings. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements. Quality/price rating: 87,  by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.


BEST OF BRIDGE DONE IN ONE; perfect recipes in one pot, pan or skillet (Robert Rose, 2023, 224 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0712-4 $34.95 CAD hardbound) is by Emily Richards (cookbook author and recipe developer)) and Sylvia Kong (cookbook author and food stylist). Both are home economists, and both have been busy revising the Best of Bridge series of cookbooks over the years. After almost half a century and 4 million books they have created a collection of one-pot recipes. This all-new book of 105 recipes uses just one cooking equipment, whether it be an electrical one-pot, a pan, a cast iron pan, a skillet, a bowl or a sheet pan. As always, the new Best of Bridge team look to family-friendly preps, easy-to-prepare meals, after-work dinners, entertaining crowd pleasers, flavour variations, ingredient substitutions, make-aheads, freezer options, easy clean-up, budget conscious foods, and the like. Virtually goof-proof. Here, even kids can make some foods. The range of contents include breakfasts, apps, salads, soups, sandwiches, red meats, poultry, fish and seafood, veggies, sides and desserts. You could try creamy mushroom and lentil orzo, vegetable beef curry, cinnamon-glazed pumpkin sheet-pan pancakes or skillet lasagne. The index includes lists of dishes for each specific pot; there are also recipe icons to guide you through the equipment and the food. It's a good looking book with excellent colour photos and large bold print. And, of course, the publisher is well-known for using BOTH metric and imperial measurements in all the preps. Quality/price rating: 92, by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.

FRENCH FROM THE MARKET (Gibbs Smith, 2024, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-6488-8 $53 CAD hardbound) is by Hillary Davis, cookbook author and lecturer, with about a half dozen or so cookbooks about French cuisine on her resume. Currently, she lives in the Hamptons with several months spent annually in France. Her latest book here has gobs of recipe photos and photos of French markets. Her contents range from starters through to desserts, and emphasizes Parisian foods and South of France foods. This is traditional French cooking, fresh from the market daily. She's simplified a few recipes such as quenelles and tarte Tatin. She's got some innovative recipes such as alpine parsnip hummus with hazelnuts. But mainly it is a French provincial cookbook, with bistro oeufs, a chicken in every pot, Alsatian onion crispbread, Provencal vegetable pistou soup, chilled summer tomato soup with soft garlic breadcrumbs, frisee salad, camargue rice salad, and red wine-poached cherries and grapes with cardamom chantilly among the 100 plus engaging preps. My fave dessert was the Pont Neuf baked figs with brie, walnuts and honey. Yum yum. All the preps have imperial measurements, but there is a metric conversion chart. Quality/price rating: 94, by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.


BOOK OF REAL GUUUD BARBECUE; grilling, slow roasting and smoking, beer-can burgers, fireball whiskey meatballs, venison stew, stuffed alligator, rubs, marinades, and more (Firefly Books, 2024, 256 pages, ISBN 13-978-0-2281-0511-4 $29.95 CAD softbound) is from the BBQ Pit Boys, founded in 2007 as a YouTube cooking channel; they host the largest BBQ community in the world. It is now world-wide with over 2.2 million subscribers and about 1.5 billion views - the most watched BBQ cooks on both YouTube and Facebook. The record shows that they have five million plus followers on all social media platforms. And now, for those without an Internet connection comes a BOOK!! It's all backyard grilling, with material on charcoal, a knife, and rubs/marinades. They thrive on being low-key, much like Bob and Ray were in their prime. There are many basic preps and methods here, for what are basically "grilling" and "slow-bbq" - steaks, fish, pork shoulder, lamb, and many sides. It's just about goof-proof. The book is very colourful with chapters devoted to burgers and sausages, meatballs and pies, beef, pork, lamb, game, poultry, seafood, fish, sides, sauces, et al. Lots of photos of the boys and the meats. As the jacket says: "this isn't just a cookbook, its a way of life." A good book for beginners. Just a couple of quibbles -- no index (look to the chapter contents) and no metric measurements (and no conversion tables). Quality/price rating: 89, by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.


Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Thursday, October 17, 2024

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for OCTOBER 19, 2024 release.

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES:  under/over $20 for  OCTOBER 19, 2024 release.

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at  https://pages.pathcom.com/~dtudor since 1994. These notes for  better or best wines available through  LCBO Vintages (on a bi-weekly basis)  can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca  or at https://pages.pathcom.com/~dtudor No winery can buy their way into – or out of – my publication.

Scores are a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, e.g. a Southern Rhone would taste like a Southern Rhone) and QPR (Quality/Price Ratio value in the marketplace, above or below its price).
I was one of the first to jump on the Robert Parker bandwagon, using numerical indications for my scores in the early 1980s. Why? Because with a database I could rate, rank and order wines in any fashion. It was just so convenient using databases. Unfortunately, the numerical system has been shown to be disgraced by overuse and "inflated numbers"; thus I have quit any ranking by number. From now on, it will just be GOOD, BETTER and BEST, which will give me some wiggle room (e.g. is this wine an 87, 88, 89, or 90? Or all of them...depends on my mood and time of day). With the rigorous standards and lab testing by the LCBO, I can safely say that every single wine at the LCBO is at least GOOD, which I would numerically rank at 75-85 points. For reasons of time and space, I will NOT be listing the GOOD wines. Just the BETTER (86-89) and the BEST (90+ ) wines. This spread of points will relate to SILVER and GOLD medals, with GOOD being BRONZE.  This also fits into my scheme for trade tastings.

MVC/QPR=BETTER (86-89)=basic recommendation
MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )=superior


MAJOR THEME:  Classic Italian

Recommended Wines UNDER $20
=========================
W+37758 LUIS FELIPE EDWARDS FAMILY SELECTION GRAN RESERVA SAUVIGNON $17.95
W+32387 SKOURAS WILD FERMENT ASSYRTIKO 2023 GREECE $19.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )
W+17586 MISSION ESTATE MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022 NEW ZEALAND $19.95
W+203877 SUTHERLAND SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022 SOUTH AFRICA $15.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )
R+38142 TRIVENTO PRIVATE RESERVE MALBEC 2022 ARGENTINA $17.95
R+19386 ALPATACO PINOT NOIR 2023 ARGENTINA $15.95
R+36282 HENTLEY FARM VILLAIN & VIXEN SHIRAZ 2022 AUSTRALIA $19.95
R+478271 SISTER'S RUN OLD TESTAMENT CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2021 AUSTRALIA $18.95
R+186114 JIP JIP ROCKS SHIRAZ/CABERNET 2022 AUSTRALIA $17.95
R+86918 FLAT ROCK RED TWISTED 2023 VQA ONTARIO  $19.95
R+37870 CLOS DE LUZ INTACTO FAMILY RESERVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2019 CHILE $18.95
R+38202 CHÂTEAU DU LUC 2020 BORDEAUX $19.95
R+38204 CHÂTEAU LUCQUES BESSAN 2016  BORDEAUX $16.95
R+526632 COURTOIS LA GRANGE VINSOBRES 2022  RHONE $19.95
R+23034 DUCA DI SARAGNANO NERO DI TROIA 2021 PUGLIA $16.95
R+455659 FATTORIA LE PUPILLE MORELLINO DI SCANSANO 2022 TOSCANO $18.95
R+984997 TEDESCHI CAPITEL NICALÒ VALPOLICELLA SUPERIORE 2021 VENETO $19.95

Recommended Wines OVER $20
========================
W+381251 REDSTONE LIMESTONE RIDGE SOUTH RIESLING 2023 VQA ONTARIO $22.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )
W+149302 FEATHERSTONE CANADIAN OAK CHARDONNAY 2022  VQA ONTARIO $24.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ ) W+747600 PIERRE SPARR GRANDE RÉSERVE GEWURZTRAMINER 2022 ALSACE $20.95
W+681429 ALOIS LAGEDER TERRA ALPINA PINOT GRIGIO 2022 ALTO ADIGE  $20.95
W+36687 SAN GIACOMO DEL COMUNE DI GAVI 2022 PIEDMONT $23.95
W+9142 BABICH BLACK LABEL SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022 NEW ZEALAND $21.95
R+631879 WAPISA MALBEC 2022 ARGENTINA $21.95
R+36314 SCHROEDER SAURUS SELECT CABERNET SAUVIGNON/CABERNET FRANC 2021
ARGENTINA $23.95
R+497388 HIDDEN BENCH LOCUST LANE VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2020 VQA ONTARIO $48.95
R+307686 TAWSE QUARRY ROAD PINOT NOIR 2021 VQA ONTARIO $35.95
R+39769 CAVE DU CHÂTEAU DES LOGES LES 3 MADONES CÔTE DE BROUILLY BEAUJOLAIS 2022 $21.95
R+213132 LA PIEVE BAROLO 2020 PIEDMONT $49.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )
R+579094 CAPARZO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2019  $59.95
R+541292 SAN CLAUDIO II VINO NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO 2020  $23.95
R+37722 SAN ALEJANDRO QUERENCIA DESEYA ORGANIC VIEJA GARNACHA 2022 SPAIN $17.95
R+529586 R. LÓPEZ DE HEREDIA VIÑA BOSCONIA RESERVA 2013 RIOJA $54.95
R+692780 R. LÓPEZ DE HEREDIA VIÑA CUBILLO CRIANZA 2016 RIOJA $33.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )

LIMITED TIME OFFERS: Some Recommended Wines from the LCBO's Limited Time Offer selections...these  are "better" value...on sale  through November 9 --

WHITE -
+158683 LA CREMA MONTEREY CHARDONNAY Monterey, California,  NOW $27.95 Save $2
+89037 TAWSE SKETCHES OF NIAGARA CHARDONNAY VOA Niagara, NOW $19.95 Save $2

RED -
+352583 BERINGER KNIGHTS VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON Sonoma County, California,
NOW $44.95 Save $5
+328567 CATHEDRAL CELLAR CABERNET SAUVIGNON WO Western Cape, South Africa,
NOW $16.95 Save $3
+226035 CHATEAU TEYSSIER AC Montagne-Saint-Emilion, NOW $24.95 Save $3
+59311 THE SEVEN DEADLY ZINS OLD VINE ZINFANDEL Lodi, California, now $21.95, save $3
+964221 LE VOLTE DELL'ORNELLAIA IGT Tuscany,  NOW $28.95 Save $3
+353201 Ruffino Riserva Ducale Oro Gran Selezione Chianti Classico DOCG Tuscany, now $44.95, save $5
+145920 Tenuta Frescobaldi di Castiglioni IGT Tuscany, now $21.95, save $3
+303800 Trius Red VQA Niagara, now $24.95, save $3


** Some New Wines I Tasted Over the Past Season ---

REPORT  FROM THE  ABRUZZO ITALIAN WINE TASTING June 2024:

The Date and Time: Monday June 17, 2024  11:30AM- 5PM
The Event: Wines of Abruzzo Tasting/Vins des Abruzzes, Italie
The Venue: The Carlu
The Target Audience: wine trade
The Availability/Catalogue: many of the wines were available for private consignment sales by Ontario wine agents.
The Quote/Background: The Masterclass (90 minutes) was a synopsis of the Abruzzo wine industry, principally Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (red) and Pecorino and/or Trebbiano d'Abruzzo (white). There is also a piquant rose: Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo, made from Montepulciano grapes. 65% of the region is mountainous (Apennines) with different microclimates that are milder by the Adriatic side. The region has 250 wineries and 35 co-ops to deal with 10,000 grape producers. 34,000 hectares produce 3.5 million hectolitres, 1 million of which is DOC. A lot of  it is exported to foreign markets such as Germany (19%) and Canada (11%).
The Wines: Unfortunately we did not taste any red wines in the Masterclass; I was expecting some reds with some depth and aging to contrast and compare with what is currently available.

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Cantina Tollo Terre di Chieti Pecorino Peco 2923 IGP (Azureau Wines)
-Ausonia Pecorino Bio Machaon 2021 DOC [organic]
-Cirelli Trebbiano d'Abruzzo DOC 2022 (The Living Vine) $27.95
-Cirelli Orange Trebbiano NV (The Living Vine) $27.95
-Cirelli Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2022 (The Living Vine) $27.95
-Colle Moro Montepulciano Nero 2019
-Castaldi Montepulciano Appassimento 2012
-Cirelli Pecorino 2022 (The Living Vine) $28.95

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (87 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Fizz: Tenuta Micoli Passerina Orso Bianco NV  
-Colle Moro Terre di Chieti Pecorino Alianto 2023 IGP  (Lexcellent Wines) $12.95
-Castorani Collini Pescarese Trebbiano Lupai 2022 IGT (Tre Amici Import)
-Ciavolich Trebbiano d'Abruzzo DOC Fosso Cancelli 2021 (Tifa Wine Inc)
-Valle Martello Villamaggio 2020
-Cantina Tollo Mo' Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Riserva (Azureau)
-Castaldi Casauria Montepulciano Riserva 2018
-Pietrame Edizione Limita Montepulciano d'Abruzzo DOP
-Orapiena Montepulciano d'Abruzzo DOP Riserva (Vintages $17.95 +36526)
-Brado Pecorino 2021
-Fattoria Nicodemi Pecorino 2023

The Food: there was a charcuterie board (ante pasta harvest table), with tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, Canadian cheeses, cured meats, smoked salmon, pickled onions, marinated artichokes, artisan breads, crisps, eggplant, dried fruit, et al. The main highlight was the cheese board with giant slabs of Gorgonzola dolce and Parmigiana Reggiano Vecchio (old)
The Downside: the masterclass was almost a half hour late in starting.
The Upside: a chance to taste an impressive variety of obscure Italian wines from Abruzzo.
The Contact Person:  lisa@androscom.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 92.






Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Wednesday, October 9, 2024

REPORT FROM THE ABRUZZO ITALIAN WINE TASTING June 2024:

REPORT  FROM THE  ABRUZZO ITALIAN WINE TASTING June 2024:

The Date and Time: Monday June 17, 2024  11:30AM- 5PM
The Event: Wines of Abruzzo Tasting/Vins des Abruzzes, Italie
The Venue: The Carlu
The Target Audience: wine trade
The Availability/Catalogue: many of the wines were available for private consignment sales by Ontario wine agents.
The Quote/Background: The Masterclass (90 minutes) was a synopsis of the Abruzzo wine industry, principally Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (red) and Pecorino and/or Trebbiano d'Abruzzo (white). There is also a piquant rose: Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo, made from Montepulciano grapes. 65% of the region is mountainous (Apennines) with different microclimates that are milder by the Adriatic side. The region has 250 wineries and 35 co-ops to deal with 10,000 grape producers. 34,000 hectares produce 3.5 million hectolitres, 1 million of which is DOC. A lot of  it is exported to foreign markets such as Germany (19%) and Canada (11%).
The Wines: Unfortunately we did not taste any red wines in the Masterclass; I was expecting some reds with some depth and aging to contrast and compare with what is currently available.

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Cantina Tollo Terre di Chieti Pecorino Peco 2923 IGP (Azureau Wines)
-Ausonia Pecorino Bio Machaon 2021 DOC [organic]
-Cirelli Trebbiano d'Abruzzo DOC 2022 (The Living Vine) $27.95
-Cirelli Orange Trebbiano NV (The Living Vine) $27.95
-Cirelli Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2022 (The Living Vine) $27.95
-Colle Moro Montepulciano Nero 2019
-Castaldi Montepulciano Appassimento 2012
-Cirelli Pecorino 2022 (The Living Vine) $28.95

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (87 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Fizz: Tenuta Micoli Passerina Orso Bianco NV  
-Colle Moro Terre di Chieti Pecorino Alianto 2023 IGP  (Lexcellent Wines) $12.95
-Castorani Collini Pescarese Trebbiano Lupai 2022 IGT (Tre Amici Import)
-Ciavolich Trebbiano d'Abruzzo DOC Fosso Cancelli 2021 (Tifa Wine Inc)
-Valle Martello Villamaggio 2020
-Cantina Tollo Mo' Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Riserva (Azureau)
-Castaldi Casauria Montepulciano Riserva 2018
-Pietrame Edizione Limita Montepulciano d'Abruzzo DOP
-Orapiena Montepulciano d'Abruzzo DOP Riserva (Vintages $17.95 +36526)
-Brado Pecorino 2021
-Fattoria Nicodemi Pecorino 2023

The Food: there was a charcuterie board (ante pasta harvest table), with tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, Canadian cheeses, cured meats, smoked salmon, pickled onions, marinated artichokes, artisan breads, crisps, eggplant, dried fruit, et al. The main highlight was the cheese board with giant slabs of Gorgonzola dolce and Parmigiana Reggiano Vecchio (old)
The Downside: the masterclass was almost a half hour late in starting.
The Upside: a chance to taste an impressive variety of obscure Italian wines from Abruzzo.
The Contact Person:  lisa@androscom.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 92.




Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Wednesday, October 2, 2024

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for OCTOBER 5, 2024 release.

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES:  under/over $20 for  OCTOBER 5, 2024 release.

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at  https://pages.pathcom.com/~dtudor since 1994. These notes for  better or best wines available through  LCBO Vintages (on a bi-weekly basis)  can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca  or at https://pages.pathcom.com/~dtudor No winery can buy their way into – or out of – my publication.

Scores are a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, e.g. a Southern Rhone would taste like a Southern Rhone) and QPR (Quality/Price Ratio value in the marketplace, above or below its price).
I was one of the first to jump on the Robert Parker bandwagon, using numerical indications for my scores in the early 1980s. Why? Because with a database I could rate, rank and order wines in any fashion. It was just so convenient using databases. Unfortunately, the numerical system has been shown to be disgraced by overuse and "inflated numbers"; thus I have quit any ranking by number. From now on, it will just be GOOD, BETTER and BEST, which will give me some wiggle room (e.g. is this wine an 87, 88, 89, or 90? Or all of them...depends on my mood and time of day). With the rigorous standards and lab testing by the LCBO, I can safely say that every single wine at the LCBO is at least GOOD, which I would numerically rank at 75-85 points. For reasons of time and space, I will NOT be listing the GOOD wines. Just the BETTER (86-89) and the BEST (90+ ) wines. This spread of points will relate to SILVER and GOLD medals, with GOOD being BRONZE.  This also fits into my scheme for trade tastings.

MVC/QPR=BETTER (86-89)=my basic recommendation
MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )=superior


MAJOR THEME:  FALL FAVOURITES

Recommended Wines UNDER $20
=========================
Fizz+281329 JOSEPH CATTIN BRUT CRÉMANT D'ALSACE  NV $19.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )=superior
Orange+30344 LANZADO ORGANIC ORANGE WINE 2022 Spain $19.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )=superior
W+662775 D'ARENBERG THE HERMIT CRAB VIOGNIER/MARSANNE 2023 Australia $17.95
W+89011 FEATHERSTONE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023 VQA $17.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )=superior
W+89029 TAWSE SKETCHES OF NIAGARA RIESLING 2022  VQA $19.95
W+37755 EMILIANA NOVAS GRAN RESERVA CHARDONNAY 2022 Chile  $17.95
W+644385 BORD ELEGANCE LAUDUN CÔTES DU RHÔNE-VILLAGES BLANC 2022 $19.95 W+402677 MATAHIWI ESTATE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023 New Zealand $18.55
W+37785 ADEGA PONTE DA BARCA LOUREIRO/ALVARINHO 2023 Portugal  $13.95
R+167619 ZUCCARDI SERIE A MALBEC 2022 Argentina $18.95
R+15079 CAMELEON ORGANIC CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2022 Argentina $16.95
R+38468 ATAMISQUE SERBAL CABERNET FRANC 2023 Argentina $17.95
R+37867 CALCU TINY BLOCKS GRAN RESERVA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020 Chile $17.95
R+37798 TABALÍ PEDREGOSO CARMENÈRE 2022 Chile $19.95
R+426247 CHÂTEAU LES TOURELLES 2019 Bordeaux $17.95
R+37240 FONJOYA HEMA GRAND VELOURS GRANDE RÉSERVE 2020 Languedoc $19.95
R+413211 XAVIER VIGNON VENTOUX Rhone 2021 $18.95
R+983742 L.A. CETTO PETITE SIRAH 2020 Mexico $14.95
R+39097 DOLIANOVA DOLIA CANNONAU DI SARDEGNA 2022  $18.95

Recommended Wines OVER $20
========================
Fizz+421032 CHARLES MIGNON PREMIUM RÉSERVE BRUT CHAMPAGNE NV $58.95
W+918805 CATENA HIGH MOUNTAIN VINES CHARDONNAY 2022 Argentina $20.95
W+39763 TRIUS SHOWCASE WILD FERMENT SAUVIGNON BLANC 2020 VQA $32.00 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )=superior
W+256552 CAVE SPRING ESTATE GROWN CAVE SPRING VINEYARD CHARDONNAY 2020 VQA $21.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )=superior
W+302083 BACHELDER L'ARDOISE NIAGARA CHARDONNAY 2022  VQA $25.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )=superior
R+390872 WOLF BLASS GREY LABEL SHIRAZ 2021 Australia  $34.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )=superior
R+317008 VERSADO MALBEC 2018 Argentina $21.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )=superior
R+33894 LE CLOS JORDANNE JORDAN VILLAGE PINOT NOIR 2021 VQA $30.00
R+20422 HIDDEN BENCH ESTATE ORGANIC GAMAY 2022 VQA $29.95
R+38198 CHÂTEAU SUAU CADILLAC-CÔTES DE BORDEAUX 2009  $24.95
R+38194 CHÂTEAU COUFRAN HAUT-MÉDOC 2009  $43.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )=superior
R+713354 TRAVAGLINI GATTINARA 2020 Piedmont $39.95
R+36916 FATTORIA SVETONI VINO NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO 2019  $28.50
R+19022 R. LÓPEZ DE HEREDIA VIÑA TONDONIA RESERVA 2012 $41.95



LIMITED TIME OFFERS: Some Recommended Wines from the LCBO's Limited Time Offer selections...these  are "better" value...on sale  through Sunday October 13 --
 
+20899  Closson Chase The Brock Chardonnay VQA Niagara now $22.95, save $2
+326728 Oyster Bay Chardonnay New Zealand now $17.95, save $3
+198853 Tawse Quarry Road Organic Riesling VQA Vinemount Ridge now $21.95, save $3
+24133 Thirty Bench Winemaker's Blend Riesling VQA Beamsville Bench now $19.95, save $3
+38117 Vineland Estates Elevation St. Urban Vineyard Riesling VQA Niagara now $19.95, save $3
+168716 M. Chapoutier Les Vignes de Bila-Haut Cotes du Roussillon Villages now $14.95, save $2
+149237 The Foreign Affair The Conspiracy VQA Niagara now $18.95, save $3
+50203 Beronia Reserva Rioja now $20.95, save $3
+976662 Faustino I Gran Reserva Rioja now $27.95, save $4
+166538 LAN Crianza Rioja now $16.95, save $2
+590414 Oyster Bay Pinot Noir New Zealand now $18.95, save $3
+130989  Tawse Growers Blend Pinot Noir VQA Niagara now $26.95, save $3


** Some New Wines I Tasted Over the Past Season ---

REPORT ON GAMBERO ROSSO VINI D'ITALIA 2024 MONDAY MAY 4 2024

The Date and Time: Monday May 6 2024, 1P-5P
The Event: Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri Itallian Wine Tasting
The Venue: Liberty Grand CNE grounds.
The Target Audience: wine trade, sommeliers, wine writers
The Availability/Catalogue: available via the QR quick-response code.
The Quote/Background: 60 wineries participated in today's event; over 200 wines were showed. Italy, of course, is the world's largest wine producer and exporter by volume. There was a masterclass of 12 wines offered up to an audience of 50 or so sommeliers and wine writers. This was a special tasting of wines that had won "special awards" such as "Sparkler of the Year" or "Winery of the Year".  The 2024 edition of Gambero Rosso reviews some 2647 wineries and a total of 25, 231 blind-tasted wines. Scores range from 1 to 3 glasses according to quality. 2,300 samples made it to the finals, and 498 wines were awarded Tre Bicchieri - Three Glasses...so close...maybe 500 next year?

The Wines: I did not taste every wine offered.

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Enrico Gatti Franciacorta Millesimo Brut Nature 2016
-Umani Ronchi Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi 2018 Marche
-Primosic Collio Chardonnay Riserva 2018 Friuli
-Cantina Reamin A.A. Gewurztraminer Nussbaumer 2021
-Dastello di Volpaia Chianti Classico Gran Riserva Selezione 2020 Tuscany
-Castello di Quercetto Chianti Classico Riserva 2020 Tuscany
-Ruffino Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Riserva Ducale 2019 Tuscany
-Giovanni Rosso Barolo Vigna Ester Canale Rosso 2019
-Camerani Corte Sant'Alda  Amarone della Valpolicella Val**zzane 2016
-Florio Marsala Virgine Riserva 2011 Sicily [fortified]
-Luigi Baudana Barolo 2020 Cerretta Piedmont
-Luigi Baudana Barolo 2020 Baudana Piedmont
-Allegrini Amarone Della Vallipolicella Classico 2020 Veneto
-Barone Pizzini Animante NV
-Giusti Dei Carni Chardonnay IGT Trevenezie 2022
-Barone Pizzini Bagnadore Franciacortia 2016
-Il Borro IGT Toscana 2019 [Vintages]
-Monteti IGT Toscana 2018
-Polissena Sangiovese 2019 Valdarno di Sopra
-Pian di Nova IGT Toscana 2020
-Caburnio IGT Toscana 2017

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (87 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Primosic Ribolla Gialla 2019  Friuli
-Fradiles Mandrolisai Rosso 2021 Tuscany
-Torgiano Rosso Freccia Degli Scacchi Riserva 2020 Terra Margaritelli Umbria
-Tenuta di Artimino Grumarello Carminiano Riserva 2019 Tuscany
-Vinchio Vaglio Barbera d'Asti, 2021 Piedmont
-Castello di Rada Chianti Classico 2017 Tuscany
-Azienda Agricola Pettinella Giuliano Pettinella Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo Tauma 2022 [rose]
-Tenuta Ceri Carmignano Arrendevole Riserva 2020
-Velenosi Ascoli Piceno Rosso Piceno Superiore Roggio del Filare 2020 [amarone]
-Barone Pizzini Rose 2019
-Luigi Baudana Langhe Dragon Bianco 2023 Piedmont
-Gorghi Tondi Grillo Riserva Sicilia Kheire 2022
-Gorghi Tondi  Coste a Preola Grillo Sicilia 2022
-Gorghi Tondi  Coste a Preola Nero d'Avola Sicilia 2021
-Monteti TM Rose IGT Toscana 2023


The Food: the cheese was served cold (a no-no) but the cold cuts were actually cold. For some reason, many boxes of room temperature Pizza Nova rectangular pizzas were served up to the trade crowds.
The Downside: this year, the audience was larger in number than usual (I have been going to Toronto's Gambero Rosso for many years), but there were many strange faces and some areas had an overwhelming smell of cologne and/or perfume.
The Upside: nevertheless, it was a good opportunity to taste some high end  Italian wines.
The Contact Person: Giovanni Silvestri [gamberorossocanada@sogood.it]
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 82


Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Sunday, September 29, 2024

WINES OF PORTUGAL TASTING EVENT....

GETAWAY WITH THE WINES OF PORTUGAL TASTING EVENT

The Date and Time: Wednesday May 1, 2024 2P - 5P
The Event: Getaway with the Wines of Portugal
The Venue: The Well, 8 Spadina
The Target Audience: Ontario wine trade, wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: spiral bound book with full details (contacts, regions, grapes, et al -- but no prices). Good background material on Portuguese wines. The quality continues to exceed every year.
The Quote/Background: it was a small list of importers (Sylvestre, Colio, P Dandurand, 351, The Vine, Charton Hobbs and Majestic) but I managed to sample my way through some of the wines that they represented. Most of these table wines were at the LCBO, or Vintages, or in Consignment, or "on the water".
The Wines: I did not taste every wine -- there must have been about 300 of them. As a grouping, I did admire the "Reserva" category, both for red and white wines. In general, the white wines were a bit more off-sweet than I am used to.

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Sogevinus Veedha Red Douro 2021
-3 Rostos Flor de Linho Alvarinho 2023 Vinho Verde (351 Imports)
-Lua Cheia-Saven Maria Bonita Nostalgia 2022 Alvarinho Vinho Verde (The Vine Agency)
-J. Portugal Ramos Family Estates Loios 2023 Alentejo (Sylvestre)
-J. Portugal Ramos Family Estates Alvarinho 2023 Vinho Verde (Sylvestre)
-J. Portugal Ramos Family Estates Loureiro 2023 Vinho Verde (Sylvestre)
-J. Portugal Ramos Family Estates Marques de Borba Reserva 2019 Alentejo (Sylvestre)
-Casa Santos Lima Lab 2023 Lisboa [white] (Majestic)
-Casa Santos Lima Blend 2023 Lisboa [white] (Majestic)
-Sandeman Porto Tawny 20 Years Old Port Douro (Charton Hobbs) fortified
-Casa Santos Lima Colossal Reserva  2019 Lisboa [red] (Majestic)
-Casa Santos Lima Quinta Espirito Santo 2020 Lisboa [red] (Majestic)
-Bacalhoa Catarina Branco 2022 Peninsula de Setubal (Colio Estate Wines)
-Bacalhoa Quinta do Carmo Branco 2022 Alentejo (Colio Estate Wines)
-Bacalhoa JP Azeitao Rose 2013 Peninsula de Setubal Syrah (Colio Estate Wines)
-Quinta da Bacalhoa Tinto 2019 Peninsula de Setubal Cab Merlot (Colio Estate Wines) FAVE red
-Quinta da Bacalhoa Branco 2019 Peninsula de Setubal Semillon/SauvBl/Alvarinho  (Colio Estate Wines) FAVE white
-Vinihold Fonte Real 2022 [white, looking]
-Vinihold Fat Baron Reserva 2022 [white, looking]
-Casa das Hortas Vale do Gaio DOC Douro Grande Reserva Branco 2021  [looking]
-Casa das Hortas Vale do Gaio DOC Douro Reserva Tinto 2017  [looking]

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (87 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Casa Santos Lima Lab 2022 Lisboa [red] (Majestic)
-Casa Santos Lima Confidencial Reserva 2020 Lisboa [red] (Majestic)
-Casa Santos Lima Quid Pro Quo 2021 Alentejo [red] (Majestic)
-Casa Ferreirinha Planalto Branco Reserva 2022 Douro (Charton Hobbs)
-Casa de Amados Todos Bairrada Baga Reserva 2021
-Bacalhoa Quinta de Carmo Tinto 2019 Alentejo
-Aveleda Quinta Vale D Maria Vinas Velhas, 2020 Douro
-Alianca Vinho Verde 2023 (Colio Estate Wines)
-Bacalhoa Catarina Tinto 2021 (Colio Estate Wines)
-Aveleda Vinho Verde Solos de Granito 2022 White Alvarinho (P Dandurand)
-Aveleda Vinho Verde Solos de Xisto 2022 White Alvarinho (P Dandurand)
-Quinta da Lagoalva Reserva Branco 2022 (351 Imports)
-3 Rostos Flor de Linho Loureiro 2023 Vinho Verde (351 Imports)
-Lua Cheia-Saven Maria Papoila 2022 Alvarinho & Loureiro Vinho Verde (The Vine Agency)
-Vinihold ZOM DOC Douro Reserva 2019 [white, looking]
-Falua Duas Cartas Branco 2022
-Quinta do Baicao 2021 Europort Wines Lisboa
-Falua Quinta de Sao Jose Touriga Nacional 2019
-Herdade Paco do Conde Alicante Bouchet 2021 Alentejo
-Vinha de Souto 2019 Quinta do Fonte Santo A|lentejo
-Vinha des Arzilas 2011 Quinta de Vale Pios Douro
-Caves Velhas Garrafeira 2018 Enoporto Wines Dao
-Churchill's Estates Grafite Tinta 2019 Douro
-Caves Arcos do Dei Quinta de Sao Pedro 2016  Dao
-S. Escondidas 2019 Casa Ferreinha Douro

The Food: we were offered an "antipasto harvest table" put together by Oliver & Bonacini. This consisted of cured meats such as prosciutto, salami, and capicola; marinated veggies and olives; artisan breads and flatbreads; cheeses via 100km Foods which included Brigid's Brie, Celtic Blue, and Beemster XO.
The Downside: nothing really, except the general lack of price information.
The Upside: the main organizers were the seven importers who were on top of their wines with prices and availability in the province. The other wineries, about two dozen, made available what data they could since they were essentially looking for importers and had economic data in FOB and wholesale prices.
The Contact Person: mdiaz@sopexa.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 90


Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Tuesday, September 17, 2024

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for SEPTEMBER 21, 2024 release.

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES:  under/over $20 for SEPTEMBER 21, 2024 release.

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at  https://pages.pathcom.com/~dtudor since 1994. These notes for  better or best wines available through  LCBO Vintages (on a bi-weekly basis)  can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca  or at https://pages.pathcom.com/~dtudor No winery can buy their way into – or out of – my publication.

Scores are a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, e.g. a Southern Rhone would taste like a Southern Rhone) and QPR (Quality/Price Ratio value in the marketplace, above or below its price).
I was one of the first to jump on the Robert Parker bandwagon, using numerical indications for my scores in the early 1980s. Why? Because with a database I could rate, rank and order wines in any fashion. It was just so convenient using databases. Unfortunately, the numerical system has been shown to be disgraced by overuse and "inflated numbers"; thus I have quit any ranking by number. From now on, it will just be GOOD, BETTER and BEST, which will give me some wiggle room (e.g. is this wine an 87, 88, 89, or 90? Or all of them...depends on my mood and time of day). With the rigorous standards and lab testing by the LCBO, I can safely say that every single wine at the LCBO is at least GOOD, which I would numerically rank at 75-85 points. For reasons of time and space, I will NOT be listing the GOOD wines. Just the BETTER (86-89) and the BEST (90+ ) wines. This spread of points will relate to SILVER and GOLD medals, with GOOD being BRONZE.  This also fits into my scheme for trade tastings.

MVC/QPR=BETTER (86-89)=my basic recommendation
MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )=superior


MAJOR THEME:  High Scoring Wines

Recommended Wines UNDER $20
=========================
W+37909 ZONTE'S FOOTSTEP LADY MARMALADE VERMENTINO 2022 Australia  $18.95
W+356873 FLAT ROCK GOOD KHARMA CHARDONNAY 2023 VQA $17.95
W+36732 JASCI ORGANIC TREBBIANO D'ABRUZZO 2023 Abruzzo  $17.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )=superior
W+17549 OTU MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023 New Zealand $18.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )=superior
W+126847 MAN FREE-RUN STEEN CHENIN BLANC 2023 South Africa $16.95
Rose+117861 FEATHERSTONE ROSÉ 2023 VQA $16.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )=superior
Rose+165845 GRAN FEUDO ROSÉ 2022 Spain $12.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )=superior
R+38143 VIÑALBA PARRILLA MALBEC 2022 Argentina $19.95
R+37552 COSME PALACIO VENDIMIA SELECCIONADA 2018 Spain $18.95
R+37579 REINO DE ALTUZARRA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2021 Spain $12.95
R+36283 BRICKFIELDER G.F. ANGAS BAROSSA VALLEY SHIRAZ 2020  $16.95
R+37911 SAN PEDRO 1865 SELECTED VINEYARDS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2022  Chile $18.95
R+487140 TRENEL BEAUJOLAIS-VILLAGES 2022 $19.95
R+38880 FAMILLE FABRE LE CERF ET LE VIGNERON CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2022 Languedoc $14.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )=superior
R+561290 LOUIS BERNARD LOUIS CÔTES DU RHÔNE-VILLAGES 2021 $16.95
R+25447 GANDARADA 2020 Portugal $13.95
R+146522 VICENTE FARIA GLORIA RESERVA 2021 Portugal $14.95
R+634667 FRANSCHHOEK CELLAR THE CHURCHYARD CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2021 South Africa  $15.95

Recommended Wines OVER $20
========================
W+33858 NESTOR GRÜNER VELTLINER 2022  Austria  $24.95
W+32364 BACHELDER BAI XU VINEYARD VIGNES DE 1981 CHARDONNAY 2021 VQA $49.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )=superior
W+359760 THIRTY BENCH SMALL LOT WOOD POST RIESLING 2019 VQA $32.00 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )=superior
W+267856 STRATUS CHARDONNAY 2021 VQA $35.20
W+30350 DOMAINE ALLIMANT-LAUGNER PRAELATENBERG GEWURZTRAMINER 2022 Alsace $39.95
W+461640 WILLIAM FÈVRE CHAMPS ROYAUX CHABLIS 2022 $35.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )=superior
W+391052 ANSELMANN RIESLING AUSLESE 2022 Pfalz $24.95
W+36386 PESOLILLO PECORINO SUPERIORE 2022 Abruzzo $21.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )=superior
Rose+319368 CHÂTEAU D'AQUÉRIA TAVEL ROSÉ 2023  $24.95 MVC/QPR=BEST (90+ )=superior
R+400598 NORTON PRIVADA FAMILY BLEND 2021 Argentina $23.95
R+39621 BACHELDER BEAM-TOWN VUE SUR LA MONTAGNE PINOT NOIR 2021 VQA $39.95
R+524231 MALIVOIRE COURTNEY GAMAY 2021 VQA $34.95
R+265074 CLOSSON CHASE CHURCHSIDE PINOT NOIR 2021 VQA $45.00
R+284570 TAWSE GROWERS BLEND CABERNET FRANC 2020 VQA $29.95
R+523183 LEANING POST PINOT NOIR 2021 VQA $34.95




LIMITED TIME OFFERS: Some Recommended Wines from the LCBO's Limited Time Offer selections...these  are "better" value...on sale  through Sunday October 13 --

+20899  Closson Chase The Brock Chardonnay VQA Niagara now $22.95, save $2
+326728 Oyster Bay Chardonnay New Zealand now $17.95, save $3
+198853 Tawse Quarry Road Organic Riesling VQA Vinemount Ridge now $21.95, save $3
+24133 Thirty Bench Winemaker's Blend Riesling VQA Beamsville Bench now $19.95, save $3
+38117 Vineland Estates Elevation St. Urban Vineyard Riesling VQA Niagara now $19.95, save $3
+168716 M. Chapoutier Les Vignes de Bila-Haut Cotes du Roussillon Villages now $14.95, save $2
+149237 The Foreign Affair The Conspiracy VQA Niagara now $18.95, save $3
+50203 Beronia Reserva Rioja now $20.95, save $3
+976662 Faustino I Gran Reserva Rioja now $27.95, save $4
+166538 LAN Crianza Rioja now $16.95, save $2
+590414 Oyster Bay Pinot Noir New Zealand now $18.95, save $3
+130989  Tawse Growers Blend Pinot Noir VQA Niagara now $26.95, save $3


** Some New Wines I Tasted Over the Past Season ---

Chateau des Charmes Aligote 2021 Cuvee Michele VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, $15.95, +296848 LCBO: made from the rarely grown French vinifera grape seldom seen outside Burgundy -- one that Paul Bosc had cultivated since 1978, loaded with lean orchard fruit (green apples and unripe pears) and ending with a finishing crisp acidity suggesting food rather more than sips. It was often used in Burgundy as the white wine base for Kir; in North America now almost any dry white is used for a Kir. Aligote is refreshing for summer, and has no oak. Named for the late Michele Bosc. I last reviewed this wine  (2019 vintage) in 2020. 2g/L residual sugar. 12.5% ABV. Twist top.  A nifty and neat bone-dry white wine, fairly priced, and quite useful as a mixer. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.

Chateau des Charmes Sauvignon Blanc 2022 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, +391300 $15.95 LCBO: last tasted by me with the 2017 vintage. Here, good balanced fruit, herbaceousness, citric tones (mainly lime), zest, MVC typicity for sauvignon blanc. Light to medium bodied, from grapes harvested a month later than usual. Fresh but so far maybe a bit too fresh at this point. Try later in the summer. 12.5% ABV. Well-priced. 4g/L residual sugar. Twist top. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.

Chateau des Charmes Fume Blanc 2022 Paul Bosc Estate Vineyard VQA St David's Bench, +739133 $34.95 Winery: vines planted in 1983, very aromatic with nuances of toastiness both in the nose and on the palate, somewhat in the fume style as started by Robert Mondavi over fifty years ago. Typical savvy citric and unripe pear zestiness is tamed by oaking and unctuous tropical fruit tones developed through small batch lots. Medium finish accents lemon and vanillin character, melon, honeysuckle. Best as a classy sipper on its own, but also with a lightly aromatic first course. Barrel fermentation in barriques, aged in French oak on lees for a year or so which adds some heft with smoke and toast. 12.5% ABV. Can be cellared  through six years (but watch out for changing wine tastes).  Quality/Price rating is 93 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.

Chateau des Charmes Pinot Noir 2021 Cuvee Michele Estate Grown &  Bottled VQA NOTL, +454967, $16.95 LCBO: A lovely young wine, with some forest floor (mushrooms, earth) to complement the red fruit (strawberries are hinted at by the winemaker). I hadn't tasted this wine since the 2018 vintage. Just under subtle oaking, with a moderate intensity of medium flavours of spices mid-palate. Ready to drink now. Cork closure, 12.5% ABV, 3g/L residual sugar. Ready now. Try with slider burgers. Dedicated to the late Michele Bosc. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.

Chateau des Charmes Gamay Noir 2021 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, $15.95, +57349 LCBO: medium-bodied, suggestive of Beaujolais [same grape variety]. Easy drinking of (sour) cherry-berry flavours with occasional nuances of spices. Fermented in normal classic unoaked style. I had not tasted this wine since the 2016 vintage. Best for patios or mulled wine, parties, BBQ. Could be served slightly chilled. Ready now, but with some tannic structure to carry through a whole meal. 12.5% ABV, cork closure. A very popular wine at this consistent price level. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.




Omrah Crossing Chardonnay Great Southern Western Australia 2023 +17644 $21.95 LCBO Vintages Release Sept. 7 or from Airen.com: some of my fave chardonnays that I have tasted came from Western Australia, and Omrah continues that pattern. It was last available in Ontario with the 2019 vintage (which I enjoyed), and now it's back at a few dollars more, moving from my recommended "under $20" to "over $20". But that's life. On the nose, there's a whack of fresh stone-orchard fruit and some toast. On the palate, there's an intense rush of fruit tempered by judicious oaking leading to a lemon saline minerality on the finish. The crispy food-friendly style lingers. Malolactic fermentation has been kept to a minimum, and it shows. Best with curries and other SEA dishes. Might be good to lay down for a few years, to get another view. 13% ABV. 2g/L residual sugar. Quality/Price rating is 92+ points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.







Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures