WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for the FEBRUARY 3, 2024 release.
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at https://pages.pathcom.com/~dtudor since 1994. These notes for good wines available through LCBO Vintages (on a bi-weekly basis) can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca or at https://pages.pathcom.com/~dtudor No winery can buy their way into – or out of – this publication.
Scores are a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, e.g. a Southern Rhone would taste like a Southern Rhone) and QPR (Quality/Price Ratio value in the marketplace above or below its price).
I was one of the first to jump on the Robert Parker bandwagon, using numerical indications for scores. Why? Because with a database I could rate, rank and order wines in any fashion. It was just so convenient using databases. Unfortunately, the numerical system has been shown to be disgraced, so I am quitting any ranking by number. From now on, it will just be GOOD, BETTER and BEST, which will give me some wiggle room (e.g. is this wine an 87, 88, 89, or 90? Or all of them...depends on my mood and time of day). With the rigorous standards and lab testing by the LCBO, I can safely say that every single wine at the LCBO is at least GOOD, which I would numerically rank at 75-85 points. For reasons of time and space, I will NOT be listing GOOD wines. Just the BETTER (86-89) and BEST (90+ ) wines. This spread of points will probably relate to SILVER and GOLD medals, with BRONZE being "GOOD". Significantly, this also fits into my scheme for trade tastings (as noted below).
MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )
MAJOR THEME: Chile and Argentina
Recommended Wines Under $20
======================
Fizz+10580 UNDURRAGA PINOT NOIR BRUT ROSÉ SPARKLING Valle del Leyda, Chile
(XD - 10 g/L) $14.95 MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )
Fizz+36065 CASTELL DE SANT PAU CAVA BRUT ROSÉ SPARKLING Spain (XD - 11 g/L) $18.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
W+33412 COLIO BUDDING VINES RESERVE PINOT GRIS 2021 VQA Niagara Peninsula (D - 5 g/L) $19.95 MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )
W+489179 BODEGA EL PORVENIR DE CAFAYATE LABORUM FINCA EL RETIRO TORRONTÉS 2022 Valle de Cafayate, Salta (XD - 2 g/L) $18.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
W+36014 TRAPICHE TESORO CHARDONNAY 2022 Valle de Uco, Mendoza (XD - 6 g/L) $15.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
W+544213 INDOMITA GRAN RESERVA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022 Valle de Casablanca (XD - 2 g/L) $15.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
W+390203 MONTES ALPHA CHARDONNAY 2021 Aconcagua Cost (XD - 2 g/L) $19.95 MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )
W+38011 VALLÉE LOIRE TOURAINE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022 (XD - 0 g/L) $16.95 MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )
R+31739 COLIO RESERVE MERLOT 2020 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake (XD - 4 g/L) $19.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+26508 SKYFALL CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020 Washington State (XD - 3 g/L) $18.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+35672 EMILIANA NOVAS STELLAR SELECTION CABERNET SAUVIGNON-SYRAH-CARIGNAN 2021 Vegan. DO Valle del Maule (XD-3 g/L) $17.95 MVC/QPR: BEST (90+)
R+35943 LA CROIX DE BEAULIAC CRÉATION CÔTES DU RHONE 2021 (XD - 4 g/L) $14.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+32685 COLOMBA BIANCA RESILIENCE PERRICONE 2021 DOC Sicilia (XD - 4 g/L) $17.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+548867 CASA SANTOS LIMA COLOSSAL RESERVA 2019 Vegan, Vinho Regional Lisboa
(D - 8 g/L) $14.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+431262 REDE RESERVA 2018 DOC Douro (XD - 5 g/L) $15.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
Recommended Wines Over $20
======================
Fizz+970970 BERNARD-MASSARD CUVÉE DE L'ÉCUSSON BRUT SPARKLING Traditional method, Luxembourg (XD - 13 g/L) $21.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
W+24981 VILLA MARIA EARTH GARDEN SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022 Marlborough, South Island (XD - 4 g/L) $20.95 MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )
W+17568 ZEPHYR SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022 Vegan, Marlborough, South Island (XD - 5 g/L) $23.95. MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
W+35193 TENUTA RAPITALÀ BERNARD DE LA GATINAIS CONTE HUGUES CHARDONNAY 2020 DOC Sicilia (XD - 3 g/L) $48.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+37411 STRATUS MERLOT 2020 Vegan, sustainable, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake (XD - 3 g/L) $45.20 MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )
R+28078 ZUCCARDI Q CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2021 Valle de Uco, Mendoza (XD - 3 g/L) $20.95 MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )
R+550392 CHÂTEAU MAURAC 2008 AC Haut-Médoc (XD - 2 g/L) $32.95 MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )
R+635680 PHILIPPE & VINCENT JABOULET NOUVELÈRE CROZES-HERMITAGE 2019
(XD - 3 g/L) $38.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+36770 CARUS ROBÈO CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2018 IGT Toscana (XD - 2 g/L) $33.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+928622 LAN GRAN RESERVA 2016 DOCa Rioja (XD - 2 g/L) $34.95 MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )
R+462788 MERAYO LAS TRES FILAS MENCIA 2020 DO Bierzo (XD - 2 g/L) $20.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
LIMITED TIME OFFERS: Some Recommended Wines from the LCBO's Limited Time Offers selections...these are "better" value...on sale through Sunday February 25.
W+250696 Banfi Principessa Gavia Gavi Piedmont, now $18.95, save $3
W+215525 LA CHABLISIENNE LES VÉNÉRABLES VIEILLES VIGNES CHABLIS now $28.95, save $4
W+38117 Vineland Estates Elevation St. Urban Vineyard Riesling VQA, now $19.95, save $3
R+378257 Banfi Brunello di Montalcino, now $54.95, save $5
R+650796 Chateau Teynac Saint-Julien, now $64.95, save $5
R+926626 Famille Perrin Les Sinards Chateauneuf-du-Pape, now $38.95, save $3
R+314575 Sterling Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, now $49.95, save $5
R+225086 Umberto Cesari Liano Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon, $24.95, save $5
REPORT ON A RELAXING SUMMER SATURDAY AFTERNOON TASTING 2023
I was invited by Giovanni Silvestri of Rome's International Marketing Communications to a small group tasting at Restaurant Deco in Toronto's Junction (Keele and Dundas). Actually, it was a family-style lunch with wine and with kids. Deco was still springing back from the pandemic: they had opened just before covid-19 attacked. There were seven adults here, and we tasted the wines with multiple food courses. For food we had shareable platters of Italian chewy breads with porchetta and olive oils, followed by caprese with fresh local tomatoes and fresh mozzarella. There were two hot courses: one with short pasta and guancale in Roman style, and another with gnocchi bolognese. There were six wines, and the tasting was led by Giovanni who also represents Gambrero Rosso Worldtour. Full disclosure--he's also the brand ambassador for Casale del Giglio wines:
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Casale del Griglio Bellone 2022 Lazio IGT 13.5% ABV. Bellone as a grape harkens back to Roman times but it has once again risen to its potential in sales with a "juicyfruit" tenderness and a long palate. It had been a major seller at our LCBO, and Giovanni points out that it may be coming back. Bellone is also often found in white wine blends in Lazio and Umbria.
-Castello di Gabiano Corte Sauvignon Blanc 2022 Piemonte DOC [organic] 10.50 Euros 13.5% comes from the southern part of Piedmont but still delivers the typical sauvignon blanc herbaceous character so necessary for food wines.
-Castello di Gabiano Adornes Barbera d'Asti Superiore 2015 Piedmont DOCG 14% ABV was my fave of the tasting, with its deep richness and satisfying aging. Aged 18 months, at least six in barriques, and more in the bottle before release. Barbera is the principal red grape of Piedmont, although, of course, it is lighter than barbaresco and barolo (both made from nebbiolo, a different but more tannic grape). Cherry-berry complexity makes the wine approachable, especially the older wines. Look also for what are known as "warm spices" or "pumpkin pie" spices with a shot of vanilla as it is aged in wood.
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Casale del Griglio Satrico 2022 Lazio Bianco +569806 $18.95 6g/L residual sugar, 13% ABV: made up in stainless with a combo of grapes (chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, trebbiano giallo) almost like a field blend. This results in a good grip based on the grapes, such as herbs and grass, orchard fruit, lemons, and an underlying minerality. A good wine to sip on the patio or deck.
-Anselmi San Vincenzo 2022 Veneto IGT +948158 $19.95 5g/L residual sugar, 12.5% ABV is much like Soave with its garganega grape blended with chardonnay and sauvignon blanc, exhibiting flowers and plums, even aromas of red currants. It's off-dry and best with food as a first course.
-Castello di Gabiano La Bruja Barbera d'Asti 2020 Piedmont DOCG 14.5% ABV was fermented in concrete (60%) and then aged for a year. Expect a variety of red fruits such as sour cherry, strawberry and raspberry. Better years will have a shot of dark fruit such as black cherry or blackberry nuances. The higher acid makes the wine more food-friendly as the wine cuts through the rich creams and sauces.
Dean Tudor, Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.comhttp://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures
