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Saturday, June 18, 2011

Some More Food and Drink Books...

3. BREW NORTH; how Canadians made  beer and beer made Canada (Greystone
Books, 2010, 175 pages, ISBN 978-1-55365-467-4, $24.95 Canadian paper
covers) is by Ian Coutts, who is a book author and magazine writer of
diverse topics. Here he handles a popular history of beer in Canada.
It's also an industry thing, with stories of brewers and businessmen,
starting from New France days through to modern microbreweries. It is
also lavishly illustrated with ads and labels from the past, with a
great deal of colour. Topics include prohibition, the rise of national
brands, advertising, and, of course, India Pal Ale. While the
illustrations make it a fun book, there is a serious bibliography for
further reading and a useful index.
Audience and level of use: beer drinkers who read.
Some interesting or unusual facts: Bans on liquor advertising continued
in Saskatchewan until 1987 and in PEI until 1997.
The downside to this book: no real tasting notes
The upside to this book: nice illustrations of the microbrews.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.
 
 
 
4. D.I.Y. DELCIOUS; recipes and ideas for simple food from scratch
(Chronicle Books, 2010, 240 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-7346-8, $24.95 US
hard covers) is by Vanessa Barrington, author of Heirloom Beans. This
is a slow food book, with preps made from "scratch". Scratch includes
making your own staples such as peanut butter, crackers and yogurt.
Here she explains how to culture fresh cheeses and brew root beer.
Indeed, she introduces many readers to the processes of fermentation,
pickling, and culturing. Topics include preserving (condiments, jams,
spreads), salads and sauces, dairy products, breads, pickles, and
beverages. She suggests several sources of supplies, and has an
interesting bibliography which includes useful websites. Preparations
have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is
a metric table of equivalents – and indeed, this is even mentioned on
the contents page.
Audience and level of use: home cooks.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: plum-verbena jam; avocado-
tomatillo salsa; marinated fresh cheese; hal-wheat sourdough bread;
fresh pasta with cabbage and bacon; sarma; Italian table pickles.
The downside to this book: it's a heavy book, and weighs more than it
needs to
The upside to this book: there are section on making baby food and pet
foods.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.
 
 
 
5. CHATELAINE MODERN CLASSICS; 250 fast, fresh recipes from the
Chatelaine kitchens (John Wiley & Sons, 2010, 391 pages, ISBN 978-0-
470-73982-2, $39.95 Canadian hard covers) has been compiled and edited
by Victoria Walsh, associate food editor of Chatelaine. It's a general,
basic book, with the recipes coming out of the pages of the magazine
over the years. It is hard to believe that four log rollers (including
Michael Smith and Anna Olson) were needed for pre-publication blurbs.
Still, it is a useful book, meant for those homes with larger pantries
and larders, and with a shortage of time. The classics here have some
short cuts (e.g., easy eggs benedict) and some variations. Each prep
has timing, ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois
measurements (but there is no table of equivalents), cook's notes and
tips, and a nutritional analysis. All courses are covered, as well as
breakfast and brunch. There is a short chapter on entertaining ideas,
with sections such as drinks and menus (1l of them, but nothing
specific to Canada – even the Christmas Dinner for 12 can be used for
Canadian Thanksgiving).
Audience and level of use: home cooks, Chatelaine magazine fans.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: linguine with spicy
gremolata shrimp; spicy sausage with dilled orzo; mushroom-stuffed
sirloin steak rolls; Singapore noodles; Asian burgers; California
sushi-roll salad; cedar-planked salmon.
The downside to this book: nothing specifically Canadian
The upside to this book: the index has a larger than normal typeface.
Quality/Price Rating: 85.
 
 
 

6. THE ILLUSTRATED COOK'S BOOK OF INGREDIENTS; 2,500 of the world's
best with classic recipes (DK, 2010, 544 pages, ISBN 978-0-7566-6730-6,
$40 Canadian hard covers) is a nice book package from DK. According to
the publisher, the reader can learn how to buy, store, prepare, cook,
preserve and eat about 2500 international foods. It's a visual
reference with thousands of photos and major contributions from such
top UK writers as Jill Norman (Elizabeth David's editor) on herbs and
spices, Jeff Cox on veggies, Judy Ridgway on oils and vinegars,
Clarissa Hyman on fruit, and the American Juliet Harbutt, cheese
consultant. Each has a separate chapter, so the book is not an
alphabetically arranged reference tool (there is an index). It's also a
heavy book because of the paper needed for the photos. 200 classic
regional recipes are also here. Preparations have their ingredients
listed mostly in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no metric table
of equivalents. The index is a gem, with leading and a larger than
normal typeface. It's pretty hard to beat the price of this book.
Audience and level of use: those in need of an identifier.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: "Slinzega: made in
Valtellina using smaller strips than bresaola, traditionally horse, but
increasingly venison or pork."
The downside to this book: it's a heavy book.
The upside to this book: it's pretty graphic – p.154 has some nifty pix
of offal, including tongue and a pig's head.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.
 

7. ENCYCLOPEDIA OF JEWISH FOOD (John Wiley & Sons, 2010, 656 pages,
ISBN 978-0-470-39130-3, $40 US hard covers) is by Gil Marks, a chef and
rabbi with five books (including a Beard winner). This is a
comprehensive international book on Jewish foods, recipes and culinary
traditions. There's an interesting section on wine and winemaking, but
not so much on yayin mevushal wines (the term is not indexed), nor on
the distinction between kosher wines and passover wines. Otherwise,
there's a fair bit of cultural history and food traditions here. The
book is alphabetically arranged, with a time line of Jewish history and
(at the end) a bibliography, mostly in English, with a separate
breakout for cookbooks (but he left out some of his own books!). There
are internal cross-references plus recipes strewn about. Preparations
have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is
no metric table of equivalents. Each page has a double-column, so
material is well-packed in. There is the occasional black and white
photo, along with some sketch maps.
Audience and level of use: food scholars, lovers of Jewish food.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: the original bagel had more
hole and less bread; potato latkes derive from Italian cheese pancakes;
and other "did you know that?"
The downside to this book: the lack of wine information.
The upside to this book: good reference tool.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.
 
 
 
8. SOUTHERN PIES; a gracious plenty of pie recipes from lemon chess to
chocolate pecan (Chronicle Books, 2010, 168 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-
6992-8, $22.95 US paper covers) is by Nancie McDermott, a North
Carolina food writer with ten cookbooks to her credit. The publisher
tries to describe these 60 plus recipes as "heavenly", and that may
well be, but they are not "light". It's arranged by season, with other
chapters on old-school custard pies, heirloom pies from the past, a
selection of chess pies, chocolate pies, and regional favourites. About
a third of the recipes are sourced as to a particular person who
developed the recipe (such as Nathalie Dupree or Leah Chase among many
others). Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois
measurements, but there is a metric table of equivalents. My wife's
former father-in-law was a Southern gentleman who came home every day
from work for lunch: he always insisted on a fresh pie with lunch (he
didn't eat it all). There are mail order sources, and even a three-page
bibliography for further recipe gathering.
Audience and level of use: home cooks.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: Cajun tarte a la bouillie;
mountain home soup bean pie; old-school North Carolina rhubarb pie;
buttermilk chess pie; almond custard pie; banana-peanut butter cream
pie with fudge sauce.
The downside to this book: nothing really.
The upside to this book: good cook's notes and memoir material
Quality/Price Rating: 88.
 
 
 

9. GLUTEN-FREE GIRL AND THE CHEF (John Wiley & Sons, 2010, 288 pages,
ISBN 978-0-470-41971-7, $29.95 US hard covers) is by Shauna James
Ahern, blogger at glutenfreegirl.com and author of the memoir Gluten-
Free Girl, and Daniel Ahern, a chef in Washington state. Notable log-
rollers (there are five of them) include Michael Ruhlman and Molly
Wizenberg. There's 100 recipes here, strewn amongst a memoir of a love
story between the "GF girl" and the "chef". The book also follows a day
in the life of the working chef. So there is material about life at
home and life at the restaurant. Lots of teff and millet and quinoa are
used. There's an index to the recipes, as well as a resources list (all
U.S., mostly west coast). Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no metric table of equivalents.
 Audience and level of use: those needing a gluten-free diet, those
who'd like a good read.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: millet tabouleh; gluten-free
fresh pasta; gluten-free crackers; gluten-free polenta with goat
cheese; chocolate-peanut butter brownies;
The downside to this book: it needs more gluten-free recipe adaptations
for foods that actually contain gluten.
The upside to this book: there is separate list of recipes that is easy
to scan.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.
 
 
 
10. EVERYONE CAN COOK SLOW COOKER MEALS; recipes for satisfying mains
and delicious sides (Whitecap, 2010, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-77050-027-3,
$24.95 CDN paper covers) is by Eric Akis, a food writer in Victoria,
BC. He's a former chef and the bestselling author of the "Everyone Can
Cook" series (covering basics, seafood, appetizers, celebrations, and
midweek meals). There are six in this series, and I guess you could
call him Canada's answer to Mark Bittman. These are simple dishes,
suitable to a wide range of "satisfying" meals. But their usefulness
lies in the creative planning of meals. He has the primer of how to
select and buy a slow-cooker. Each recipe has detail on prep time, slow
cooker time, and finishing time, as well as some options and
variations. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric
and avoirdupois measurements, and there is no table of equivalents.
There are plenty of cook's notes and options for variations here.
Audience and level of use: beginner or home cooks.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: veal stroganoff; sake soy
braised beef short ribs; chicken wings with bourbon, maple and citrus;
The downside to this book: the quantities for each ingredient are set
in pastel colours on the page, which makes for squinty reading and poor
photocopying. I advocate photocopying recipes for actual kitchen
preparation (saves wear and tear on the book, and you can clip the
recipe to a shelf or cupboard).
The upside to this book: a good clean look.
Quality/Price Rating: 86.
 

Friday, June 17, 2011

April 29/11: APVSA Hits Toronto for big French wine tasting

. The Time and Date: Tuesday, April 29, 2011   10AM to 6PM
The Event: the monthly APVSA tasting (Association pour la promotion des
vins et spiritueux en Amerique du Nord).
The Venue: Delta Chelsea Inn
The Target Audience: wine agents.
The Availability/Catalogue: no wines are currently available in
Ontario. The group is here to try to get some agents to agree to rep
the principal. Some of the wines are available in Quebec and Alberta.
Most of the wines were French, and there is sales staff available to
comment on the prices and production. This road show also visits such
places as New York, Los Angeles, Seattle, Las Vegas, Calgary,
Vancouver, Miami, Washington DC, and Montreal. Occasionally, the show
will have wines from Italy, Spain and Australia. Sometimes spirits are
also available, and VDN.
The Wines: The problem I had with the wines, and one that must be
acknowledged, is that (by and large) they were about the same as wines
that we already have here in Ontario. There really did not seem to be
any price advantages, either. But these 40 or so wines could be made
available through Vintages or Consignment. In the past, quite a few
have been picked up for sale in Ontario. They were mostly the good
value or unique wines. Here were my faves, regardless of price (all
prices are ex-cellar Euros). I did not try every wine.
The Wines:
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Dom. Joseph Scharsch Riesling de Wolxheim 2009 Alsace, 4.70 E
-Dom. Piquemal Cotes du Roussillon Villages Les Terres Grillees 2005
-Dom. Michel Mallard et Fils Corton Les Renardes 2009 Grand Cru, 40 E
-Dom. Michel Mallard et Fils Ladoix 1er cru Les Crechons Blanc 2009, 17
E
-Dom. Michel Mallard et Fils Corton Les Rognets 2008 Grand Cru, 34 E
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Dom. Joseph Scharsch Grand Cru Altenberg Riesling de Wolxheim 2008
Alsace, 7.40 E
-Dom. Jacky et Pascal Preys Touraine Fie Gris 2009 Vieilles Vignes,
3.30 E
-Dom. Jacky et Pascal Preys Silex Cuvee 2009 Vieilles Vignes, 3.90 E
-Dom. Henri Beurdin et Fils Reuilly Blanc Cuvee L'Orme au Loup 2009,
4.10 E
-Dom. De la Chaise Touraine Blanc Sauvignon 2010, 2.85 E
-Dom. Jacques Rouze Quincy Domaine des Croix 2010, 4.60 E
-Maillard Christophe Muscadet Sevre et Maine Cuvee Camille 2009, 3.75 E
-Dom. De Chevilly Quincy 2010, 4.65 E
-Menard Gaborit Muscadet Sevre et Maine sur Lie Cuvee Prestige 2010,
2.95 E
-Chateau Fontbaude Cotes de Castillon Vieilles Vignes 2008, 4.75 E
-Chateau Goubau 2008 Cotes de Castillon, 7.50 E
-Chateau d'Esteau Haut Medoc 2005, 7 E
-Chateau d'Esteau Haut Medoc 2006, 6 E
-Chateau d'Esteau Haut Medoc 2008, 6 E
-Chateau La Mongie Cuvee Harmonie 2007 Bordeaux, 2.50 E
-Dom. Ruet Cote de Brouilly 2009, 4.30 E
-Dom. Perrin Volnay 2008, 10.45 E
-Dom. Michel Mallard et Fils Ladoix 1er Cru Les Joyeuses 2008, 15 E
-Dom. Michel Mallard et Fils Ladoix Le Clos Royer 2008, 13 E
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Dom. Joseph Scharsch Pinot Gris Clos Saint Materne 2009 Alsace, 7 E
-Dom. Joseph Scharsch Riesling de Wolxheim 2009 Alsace, 4.70 E
-Dom. Jacky et Pascal Preys Sauvignon Les Pillotieres 2009, 2.70 E
-Dom. Henri Beurdin et Fils Reuilly Blanc 2009, 4.05 E
-Maillard Christophe Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sablons 2009, 3.07 E
-Menard Gaborit Muscadet Sevre et Maine sur Lie 2009, 2.5 E
-Chateau Fontbaude Cotes de Castillon 2008, 3.75 E
-Chateau Goubau Les Charmes de Goubau 2008 Cotes de Castillon, 3.50 E
-Chateau Goubau La Source 2008 Cotes de Castillon, 4.75 E
-Chateau La Mongie 2008 Bordeaux Superieur, 2.50 E
-Dom. Ruet Morgon 2009, 4.30 E
-Dom. Ruet Beaujolais Villages Blanc 2009, 4 E
-Dell'Ova Freres Chateau de la Grange Fitou 2008, 3.50 E
-Dom. Perrin Pommard 2008, 13.24 E
-Dom. Perrin Volnay 1er cru Les Mitans 2008, 16.03 E
-Dom. Michel Mallard et Fils Ladoix 2009, 12 E
-Dom. Michel Mallard et Fils Clos de Nuits Villages 2009, 12 E
-Dom. Michel Mallard et Fils Aloxe Corton 2008, 16 E
 
The Downside: selection is eclectic and some bottles arrive
haphazardly. Some bottles never arrived at all, but we were not told
this until we got there. Some bottles are in the show, but are not
listed in the catalogue. It can be frustrating.
The Upside: a chance to taste some engaging wines not available here.
There is a listing of wines with FOB prices in Euros.
The Contact Person: Pascal p.fernand@apvsa.ca
The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 84.
 
 

Thursday, June 16, 2011

May 12: New Zealand Wine Fair Toronto 201, Design Exchange

The Time and Date: Thursday, May 12, 2011 2:30 PM to 5 PM
The Event: New Zealand Wine Fair Toronto 2011
The Venue: Design Exchange
The Target Audience: wine trade
The Availability/Catalogue: the catalogue was the usual model of depth
– short histories or notes about the wineries, contact details,
agency/distributor details, and a list of wines on show with suggested
CAD retail prices. Wines were through the general list, vintages,
consignment, or as private orders.
The Quote/Background: Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand (SWNZ) is the
auditing body as NZ winegrowers march towards 100% sustainability by
2012. So far 190 wineries and 1500 vineyards (90% of all wine
production and producing areas). The seminar theme this year was about
"aromatics" (riesling, pinot gris, gewurztraminer, and syrah). I folded
these wines into the running totals below.
The Wines: 39 wineries were pouring their drinks.
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Mt. Beautiful Cheviot Hills Riesling Canterbury 2008, $18
-Carrick Riesling Central Otago 2009, $29.95 Lifford
-Spy Valley Gewurztraminer Marlborough 2010, $21.95 Kylix
-Sacred Hill Deerstalkers Syrah 2007 Hawkes Valley, $39.99 Diageo
-Villa Maria Cellar Selection Syrah 2008 Hawke's Bay, $37.95 PMA
-Man o' War Dreadnought Syrah Waiheke Island 2008, $49.99 Mark Anthony
-Pasquale Pinot Gris 2010 Waitaki, $30
-Pasquale Pinot Noir 2009 Waitaki, $50
-Elephant Hill Reserve Syrah Hawke's Bay 2008, $38.95 HHD Imports
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Ostler Caroline's Pinot Noir 2009 Waitaki, $39.95 Von Terra
-Ostler Audrey's Pinot Gris 2009 Waitaki, $29 Von Terra
-Akarua Chardonnay Central Otago 2009, $22.95 Von Terra
-Astrolabe Voyage Pinot Gris Marlborough 2010, $21.95 Rogers
-Astrolabe Voyage Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2010, $21.95 Rogers
-Giesen The Brothers Pinot Noir 2009, $29.95
-Tohu Pinot Noir Marlborough 2008, $26.25 Connexion Oenophilia
-Tohu Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2010, $18.30 Connexion Oenophilia
-Hunter's Riesling Marlborough 2006, not available.
-Framingham Pinot Gris Marlborough 2009, $19.95 Charton Hobbs
-Waipara Hills Gewurztraminer Waipara 2009, not available
-Vinoptima Reserve Ormond Gewurztraminer Gisborne 2006, $54.95 Hanna
-Te Awa Chardonnay Hawke's Bay 2009, $23.95 MCO Wines
-Churton Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2009, $22 Terra Firma
-Cloudy Bay Chardonnay Marlborough 2008, $29.95 Vintages
-Coopers Creek Viognier Gisborne 2009, $16.95 Noble Estates
-Elephant Hill Viognier Hawke's Bay 2010, $26.95 HHD Imports
-Lawson's Dry Hills Gewurztraminer Marlborough 2009, $18.45 Wine Guru
-Marisco The King's Bastard Chardonnay Marlborough 2009, $19.95
Glencairn Wine Merchants
-Sileni Cellar Selection Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2010, $15.95
Kirkwood
-Southbank Estate Pinot Noir Marlborough 2008, $19.95 Vintages
-Spy Valley Envoy Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2009, $33.95 Kylix
-Staete Landt Estate Grown Chardonnay Marlborough 2009, $36.95 Lifford
-Summerhouse Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2009, $19.95 Vintages
-Te Kairanga Estate Chardonnay Martinborough 2009, $17.95 Small
Winemakers
-Yealands Estate Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2010, $23.95 Trialto
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Akarua Pinot Gris Central Otago 2009, $22.95 Von Terra
-Gladstone Vineyard Pinot Gris Wairarapa 2009, $21.50 Wine Guru
-Trinity Hill Syrah Hawke's Bay 2008, $20.95 Connexion Oenophilia
-Te Mata Estate Bullnose Syrah Hawke's Bay 2009, Prevedello $38
-Mission Estate Reserve Syrah Hawke's Bay 2009, $26.95 Vinexx
-Babich Family Estate Individual Vineyard Headwaters Organic Block
Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2010, $19.95 Dionysius
-Kato Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2010, $16.95 General List
-Konrad Gewurztraminer Marlborough 2010, $17.35 Vergena
-Mt. Difficulty Chardonnay Central Otago 2008, $26.95 Small Winemakers
-Stoneleigh Chardonnay Marlborough 2009, $16.95 General List
-Wither Hills Rarangi Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2010,
$22.95 Select
The Food: sandwiches for the press, a variety of cows' milk cheeses
from the Dairy Farmers of Canada, and desserts of small pavlovas.
The Contact Person: nzwine@ketchin.com
The Marketing Effectiveness/Execution of the Event(numerical grade):
89.

 

Sunday, June 12, 2011

May: Tasting and lunch with Evangeloa Gerovassiliou of Domaine Gerovassiliou

 The Time and Date: Wednesday, May 11, 2011 11 AM to 3 PM
The Event: a tasting and lunch with Evangeloa Gerovassiliou of Domaine
Gerovassiliou, Thessaloniki, Greece. He also controls Domaine Katsaros
in Northern Greece and Biblia Chora at Mt. Pangeon (Northern Greece).
The Venue: Thompson Toronto
The Target Audience: wine press and private clients.
The Availability/Catalogue: wines are in the process of coming to
Ontario and Quebec. The SAQ agent, Cava Spiliadis, is arranging for
Ontario representation.
The Quote/Background: Elyse Lambert, winner of Best Sommelier of
Americas 2009, came in from her home in Montreal to give the
presentation, which was also accompanied by a video.
The Wines:
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Biblia Chora Ovilos Blanc 50% assyrtiko/50% Semillon. Gold Medalist.
$28 in SAQ.
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Biblia Chora Areti 2009 100% assyrtiko. Gold Medalist. About $22.
-Domaine Gerovassiliou Viognier 2008. Gold Medalist. About $30.
-Domaine Gerovassiliou Evangelo 2006 92% petite sirah/8% viognier.
About $50.
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Domaine Gerovassiliou White 2009 assyrtiko/malagousia (50/50). Gold
Medalist. $19.95 Vintages
-Domaine Katsaros Estate Chardonnay 2009. Gold Medalist. About $30.
The Food: at the lunch we were served black cod marinated with miso and
aji mirin. Accompanying it was baby bok choy, enoki, and barley
risotto. The new Vintages release of Domaine Gerovassiliou 2009
($19.95) played off well against the sweet-salt of the mirin-miso. The
striploin churrasco, with potatoes and veggies, was a winner with the
Evangelo Red 2006 ($50). Top marks for the food and wine pairings.
The Downside: unfortunately, I had a play to catch at 2 PM, so I left
before dessert (passion fruit and white chocolate parfait).
The Upside: a chance to see the Thompson and to try its vaunted
culinary kitchens.
The Contact Person: george@cavaspiliadis.com
The Marketing Effectiveness/Execution of the Event(numerical grade): 87.
 
 

Monday, June 6, 2011

June 11/11: LCBO Vintages Release -- some notes

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR JUNE 11, 2011
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is a guide to
thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers
and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1995. My tastings are based on
MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price
Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE:
The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine
writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not available for re-
tasting.
 
TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Lakeview Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Niagara: great MVC (greens
such as grass, asparagus, gooseberry) for an Ontario savvy. Gold Medal
winner. +226027, $17.95, QPR: 90.
2. Vineland Estates Chenin Blanc 2008 Niagara Escarpment: spices and
aromatics reminiscent of the Loire, terrific value with an off-dry
finish, 11.7% ABV. Sipper. +227033, $17, QPR: 90
3. Napa Ridge Chardonnay 2009 Napa: MVC California chardonnay (slightly
off-dry, ripe orchard fruit, more toast than smoke, bracing
tropicality). +213678, $19.95, QPR: 89.
4. Famiglia Bianchi Chardonnay 2010 Mendoza: light body but 14.5% ABV,
easy finish, great price, MVC for a barrel-fermented chardonnay. +1461,
$12.95, QPR: 90.
5. Braided River Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Marlborough: herby NZ MVC savvy
with body and finishing acid, 13% ABV. +214585, $15.95, QPR: 90.
6. Domaine des Malandes Chablis 2009: classic and easy, simple,
uncomplicated Chablis with MVC (minerality, apple, and lemon). +111658,
$18.95, QPR: 89.
7. Godo Bianco 2009 IGT Bianco Veronese: interesting, caught my
palate's attention, slightly off-dry, useful with food or sipping.
+214353, $14.95, QPR: 89.
 
TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Emiliana Novas Limited Selection Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2008
Maipo: incredible value for an organic wine, with alcohol (14.5%),
finishing acid on the length, ripe and fruity style of cabby MVC, some
plumminess from the merry merlot. With food or sipping. Load up at this
price – buy it all!! +685792, $14.95, QPR: 93.
2. Thelema Shiraz 2006 WO Stellenbosch: good balance, Rhonish MVC tones
(black fruit, mocha). +146431, $19.95, QPR: 89.
3. Chateau Begadanet 2005 Medoc: maturing nicely, lots of underbrush
and wood, fruit on the mid-palate. +138875, $17.95, QPR: 90.
4. Clos de Verdots Merlot 2009 Bergerac: slight Bordeaux complexity,
affordable, Gold Medal winner, 14% ABV. +219436, $15.95, QPR: 90.
5. Apollonio Terragnolo Negroamaro 2004 IGT Salento Rosso: MVC Salento
(deep brooding flavours, some olives and smoked meat), long length,
ready to roll with 14.5% ABV. +211821, $17.95, QPR: 90.
6. Zeni Costalago 2008 IGT Rosso Veronese: North American appeal of
cherries and chocolate, becoming mocha on the finish. 14% ABV, useful
sipper as well as with food. +220848, $14.95, QPR: 89.
7. Conde de Valdemar Reserva 2004 Rioja: MVC for Rioja, some coconut
from the US oak, age and price is great. 13.5% ABV. +947309, $18.95,
QPR: 90.
 
VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.
 
1. Dutton Estate Dutton Palms Vineyard Chardonnay 2008 Russian River
Valley, +234856, $54.95 retail.
2. Jacques Bourguignon Chablis 1er Cru 2009, +208033, $25.95.
3. Beringer Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Napa, +149955,
$99.55.
4. Bonny Doon Vineyard Le Cigare Volant 2006 California, +975847,
$39.95.
5. La Crema Pinot Noir 2009 Russian River, +906404, $44.95
6. Ladera Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Howell Mountain Napa, +234005, $79.95
7. Domaine du Haut des Terres Blanches Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2007,
+177618, $37.95.
8. Pasquale Pelissero Bricco San Giuliano Barbaresco 2007, +214551,
$27.95.
9. Castello di Gabbiano Chianti Classico Riserva 2007, +216309, $22.95.
10. Giacomo Montresor Amarone della Valpolicella 2006, +204826, $53.95.
11. Remo Farina Monte Fante Riserva Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
2004, +63636, $62.95.
 

May: Hidden treasures of Greece Wine Show, Toronto

The Time and Date: Tuesday, May 10, 2011 11:30 AM to 5 PM
The Event: "Discover the Hidden Treasures of Greece" wine trade show
The Venue: Metropolitan Hotel
The Target Audience: wine trade
The Availability/Catalogue: wines are available, mainly through private
order or consignment or some other non-conventional channel.
The Quote/Background: Unique terroirs were explored my John Szabo in
his seminar presentation. I have folded these wines into the lists
below.
The Wines: It was impossible to actually try all of the wines.
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Antonopoulos Gerontoklima Vertizami 2003, $44.95 Kolonaki
-Limnos Muscat Organic 2009, $15 Kolonaki
-Santowine Vinsanto 2004 Santorini, Vergina
-Nico Lazaridi Magic Mountain 2006 Red, Vergina
-Muscat de Limnos Aelios White 2004, $20 half-litre Kolonaki
-Papaioannou Estate Microclima 2003 Red, $63.95 Kononaki
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Axia Malagouzia 2010 White, $18.95 Eurovintage
-Alpha Estate Red 2007, Vintages November 12/11 $29.95
-Alpha Xinomavro Reserve Old Vines 2007, $23 Vintages
-Alpha Xinomavro Single Vineyard Hedgehob 2007, $18.95 Fall 2011
Vintages
-Antonopoulos Private Collection Red 2005, $18.95 Kolonaki
-Biblia Chora Areti Red 2005, Cava Spiliadis $27
-Biblia Chora Areti White 2009, Cava Spiliadis $23
-Boutari Naoussa Grande Reserve 2004, $16.95 Vintages
-Cavino Nemea Reserve 2006 Red
-Cavino Nemea Grande Reserve 2005 Red
-Gaia Estate 2006, Small Winemakers
-Domaine Gerovassiliou Viogner 2009, $30 Cava Spiliadis
-Domaine Gerovassiliou Avaton 2006 Red, $40 Cava Spiliadis
-Domaine Katsaros Chardonnay 2009, $31 Cava Spiliadis
-Domaine Katsaros Red 2005, $41.25 Cava Spiliadis
-Monemvasios Red 2005, Celebrity Wines
-Oenoforos Asprolithi 2010 Red, $14.95 Dionysus
-Papaioannou Cava 2001 Red, $27.95 Kononaki
-Parparoussis Taos Cava 2005 Red. $44 Cava Spiliadis
-Pavlidis Thema Red 2008, Kolonaki
-Chateau Porto Carras 2004 Red, Vergina
-Semeli Nemea Reserve 2007, Ambelinos Wines
-Mercouri Estate Antares 2007 Red, $22 Rubaiyat

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Ktima Brintziki Bio 2008 Red
-Kouros Nemea 2007, $11.95 Dionysus
-Hatzimichalis Chardonnay 2009, $15.95 Dionysus
-Hatzimichalis Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, $17.95 Dionysus
-Katogi Averoff 2008 Red
-Katogi Xinomavro 2005 Red
-Katogi Agiorgitiko 2007 Red
-Kir Yianni Diaporos 2007, Kolonaki
-Nico Lazaridi Chateau 2006 White, Vergina
-Nico Lazaridi Merlot 2009, Vergina
-Tsantali Rapsani Reserve 2007, $14.95 Churchill Cellars
-Skouras Megas Oenos 2007, $38 Kolonaki
-Mediterra Xerolithia 2010 White, Kolonaki

The Food: as in the past, we were served a lot of lamb lollipops, roast
beef, smoked salmon on large blini, crab cakes, veggies and dips,
grilled club/BLT sandwiches, sushi, spiced shrimp, and plenty of a
variety of cheeses and breads.
The Downside: I was very late for the seminar due to a medical
appointment.
The Upside: a great opportunity to taste some exciting red wines now
being made in Greece.
The Contact Person: kmunson@allaboutgreekwine.com
The Marketing Effectiveness/Execution of the Event(numerical grade):
90.
 
 

Sunday, June 5, 2011

May: Domaine Sigalas Vertical wine tasting.

The Time and Date: Monday, May 9, 2011 11:30AM to 3 PM
The Event: a vertical wine tasting of Domaine Sigalas (Santorini),
conducted by President and CEO Paris Sigalas. The firm is repped in
Ontario by the Kolonaki Group.
The Venue: LCBO Event Kitchen, Summerhill location
The Target Audience: wine press, sommeliers.
The Availability/Catalogue: Some wines are no longer available, or only
in small quantities. The Sigalas Assyrtiko/Athiri 2009 (a 70/30 blend)
is through Consignment, as is the Sigalas Santorini Barrel 2008. The
Sigalas Santorini 2009 (stainless) is at Vintages +74781.
The Quote/Background: Paris founded the company in 1991. Today, he
grows assyrtiko (Santorini), athiri, aidani, mandilaria, and
mavrotragano grape varieties.
The Wines: We were all amazed at how young the wines appeared. On the
island, the vines are 100 years old or so, no phylloxera has ever
appeared, and only French oak is used.
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Domaine Sigalas Santorini 2003 Barrel Aged 100% assyrtiko, $40
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Domaine Sigalas Santorini 2009 100% assyrtiko, $23.95
-Domaine Sigalas Santorini 2007 100% assyrtiko, $29.95
-Domaine Sigalas Santorini 2006 100% assyrtiko, $34.95
-Domaine Sigalas Santorini 2007 Assyrtiko/Athiri (70/30), n/a
-Domaine Sigalas Santorini 2009 Barrel Aged 100% assyrtiko, $29.95
-Domaine Sigalas Santorini 2008 Barrel Aged 100% assyrtiko, $29.95
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Domaine Sigalas Santorini 2010 100% assyrtiko, $23.95
-Domaine Sigalas Santorini 2008 100% assyrtiko, $24.95
-Domaine Sigalas Santorini 2005 100% assyrtiko, $39.95
-Domaine Sigalas Santorini 2003 100% assyrtiko, $39.95
-Domaine Sigalas Santorini 2010 Assyrtiko/Athiri (60/40), $17.95
Unfortunately, the Domaine Sigalas Santorini 2001 was corked.
Other wines, mainly with food, included Sigalas Mavrotragano 2008 (deep
brooding red, 3.5 stars, and $44.95) and Sigalas Vinsanto 2004 (rated
3.5 stars, $44.95 for a 500mL bottle).
The Food: typical mezes – sausages, lamb, olives, feta cheese, open-
faced sandwiches. The refreshing acidity from all of these wines braced
the food-wine pairings.
The Downside: I had to rush over from a medical appointment, so I
missed the first half hour.
The Upside: any vertical tasting in Toronto these days is a rarity, and
even more so when it is classy white Greek wine.
The Contact Person: steve.kriaris@kolonakigroup.com
The Marketing Effectiveness/Execution of the Event(numerical grade):
90.
 
 

Thursday, June 2, 2011

May 5/11 Australia's First Families of Wines trade show in Toironto

 The Time and Date: Thursday, May 5, 2011 2:30 PM to 5 PM

The Event: Australia's First Families of Wines trade show and order event.

The Venue: Arcadian Court, The Bay

The Target Audience: wine trade

The Availability/Catalogue: some wines were available for purchase that night by consumers, others were in the usual distribution channels.

The Quote/Background: the AFFW (some 11 members) call themselves the Guardians of the Soil. They brought some 60 iconic wines with them for tasting and selling.

The Wines: I did not get to taste all the wines.

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-D'Arenberg The Galvo Garage Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc/Petit Verdot 2003, $33

-De Bortoli DB Reserve Pinot Noir 2008, +221994, $15.95

-Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz 2002, $899

-Howard Park Chardonnay 2008, $39

-Howard Park Leston Cabernet Sauvignon 2008,

-Jim Barry The Armagh Shiraz 2006, $219

-Jim Barry The McRae Wood Shiraz 2006, $55

-Jim Barry The McRae Wood Shiraz 1999, $65

-Tahbilk Eric Stevens Purbrick Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, $59

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Campbell's Rutherford Muscat  Vintages

-Campbell's Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, $19

-Campbell's The Brothers Shiraz 2007, $55

-De Bortoli Noble One Botrytis Semillon 2007

-Henschke Johann's Garden GMS 2007

-Henschke Mount Edelstone Shiraz 2007, $134

-Howard Park Scottsdale Shiraz 2008, $37

-Jim Barry The Cover Drive Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, $23.95

-McWilliam's Mount Pleasant Maurice O'Shea Shiraz 2005, $65

-McWilliam's Mount Pleasant Maurice O'Shea Shiraz 2006, $65

-McWilliam's Mount Pleasant Lovedale Semillon 2003, $59

-Tahbilk Eric Stevens Purbrick Shiraz 2005, $59

-Tahbilk 1860 Vines Shiraz 2005, $139

-Tyrrell's Rufus Stone Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec 2008, $24

-Tyrrell's Rufus Stone Shiraz 2008, $19.95 Vintages

-Wakefield St. Andrews Shiraz 2004, $49

-Wakefield St. Andrews Chardonnay 2008, $44

-Wakefield St. Andrews Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, $49

-Wakefield Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, $17.95 Vintages

-Yalumba Viognier 2009, $24.95 Vintages

-Yalumba Hand Picked Single Site Habermann Vineyard Grenache 2005, $76

-Yalumba The Virgilius Viognier 2008, $50.95

-Yalumba The Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz 2004, $110.95

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Campbell's Rutherglen Durif 2008, $25

-Campbell's Bobbie Burns Shiraz 2008

-Campbell's Shiraz/Durif 2009, $19

-D'Arenberg The Twentyeight Road Mourvedre 2007

-D'Arenberg The Wild Pixie Shiraz/Roussanne 2009, $29

-De Bortoli Rococo Blanc de Blancs NV, $25

-De Bortoli Melba Lucia 2007, $29

-Henschke Keyneton Estate Euphonium Shiraz 2008, $50

-Henschke Giles Lenswood Pinot Noir 2009, $54

-Howard Park Madfish Gold Turtle Chardonnay 2007, $27.95

-McWilliam's Mount Pleasant Florence Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2010

-McWilliam's Mount Pleasant Lovedale Semillon 2005, $59

-McWilliam's Mount Pleasant Estate Shiraz 2008

-Tahbilk Viognier 2010, $18

-Tahbilk Shiraz 2006

-Tyrrell's Vat 9 Hunter Shiraz, $51

-Tyrrell's Lost Block Semillon 2010, $15.95 Vintages

-Tyrrell's Vat 1 Hunter Semillon 2004, $51

-Tyrrell's Vat 47 Hunter Chardonnay 2008, $51

-Wakefield Chardonnay 2009, $16.95 Vintages

-Yalumba Patchwork Shiraz 2004, Vintages $21.95

 

The Food: cheese and pate, breads and crackers.

The Downside: we were at 11 tables of eight, one per winemaker, and we were allowed eight minutes to taste and discuss two wines. For the most part, it worked, but at the end of each component tasting, we ALL had to get up and move to another table in sequence. That meant carrying notes, pens, bags, glasses, and spittoons from table to table. It could have been so much easier if only the winemaker moved: 11 bodies at a time, not 77. It's been done that way at other tastings over the years. Also, not enough time was allowed for the whole show. It was skedded for 2 hours, but it took almost 2 hours just to get through the tasting with the winemaker. Consequently, we were rushed through the rest of the tasting (some 45 wines, compared to just 22 at the tables).

The Contact Person: affw@praxispr.ca

The Marketing Effectiveness/Execution of the Event(numerical grade): 80
 
 

Tuesday, May 31, 2011

May 4/11 Tasting of new Australian General List wines from LCBO

The Time and Date: Wednesday, May 4, 2011   2PM to 5PM

The Event: Wine Australia Media Tasting

The Venue: Sassafraz Restaurant

The Target Audience: wine media, sommeliers

The Availability/Catalogue: about 43 wines were presented, and all are on the General List.

The Quote/Background: These are label/brand replacements for some wines that were not meeting their LCBO quotas. This was also taken as an opportunity for a category re-launch.

The Wines:

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-De Bortoli DB Family Selection Traminer Riesling 2009 $12.95 207381

-Heath Wines Lizard Flat Cabernet Merlot 2008 $9.95 195776

-Pikes Clare Hills Riesling 2009 $14.95 215111

-Xanadu Next of Kin Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2009 $14.95 212621

-Yering Station Little Yering Chardonnay 2009 $14.95 145318

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-De Bortoli Deen Vat 4 Petit Verdot 2008 $14.95 222265

-De Bortoli Emeri Pink Moscato NV $14.95 229190

-Fifth Leg Shiraz Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 $15.95 212605

-Hardy's Chronicles The Gamble Chardonnay Pinot Gris 2009 $14.95 689455

-Hardy's Chronicles Butchers Gold Shiraz Sangiovese 2008 $14.95 605188

-Jip Jip Rocks Sparkling Shiraz NV $16.95 212472

-Kangarilla Road Shiraz 2008 $17.45 212738

-Plunkett-Fowles Stone Dwellers Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 $19.95 212761

-Shingleback Haycutters Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2009 $17.95 207365

-Xanadu Next of Kin Chardonnay 2009 $14.95 212647

-Yabby Lake Cooralook Pinot Gris 2008 $14.95 212712

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Barwick Estates Pinot Noir 2009 $13.95 +215194

-Barwick Estates Crush Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2009 $12.95 +215673

-Yellow Tail Reserve Chardonnay 2010 $14.95 234591

-De Bortoli Emeri Pinot Grigio Sparkling NV $14.95 222224

-Fifth Leg Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2010 $15.95 212613

-Heath Wines Lizard Flat Chardonnay 2008 $9.95 195685

-Henry's Drive Morse Code Shiraz 2009 $12.95 207399

-Jacob's Creek Reserve Riesling 2010 $16.95 212704

-Kangarilla Road Charlie's Blend Shiraz Cabernet 2008 $12.95 212720

-Knappstein 'The Insider' 2010  $14.95 212746

-Long Flat Shiraz Viognier 2009 $11.95 220426

-McWilliam's Hanwood Estate Moscato NV $13.95 212696

-Mitolo Junior Shiraz 2008 $14.95 183947

-Peter Lehmann Barossa Blonde 2009 $14.95 197871

-Peter Lehmann Weighbridge Shiraz 2008 $14.95 219170

-Pikes Lenswood Hills Pinot Noir 2010 $16.95 215095

-Pikes Clare Hills Shiraz Cabernet 2008 $14.95 215103

-Robert Oatley James Oatley Tic Tok Sauvignon Blanc 2009 $14.95 187039

-Robert Oatley James Oatley Tic Tok Chardonnay 2009 $14.95 187104

-Robert Oatley James Oatley Tic Tok Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 $15.95 187179

-Robert Oatley James Oatley Tic Tok Shiraz 2008 $15.95 187187

-St. Hallett Gamekeeper's Shiraz Cabernet 2008 $14.95 212670

-Thorn-Clarke Terra Barossa Merlot 2009 $15.95 218826

-Xanadu Next of Kin Shiraz 2008 $14.95 212662

-Yalumba Y Series Riesling 2009 $14.95 212753

-Yering Station Little Yering Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2006 $14.95 145326

 

The Food: platters of lamb rilettes, seared duck breast on brioche, spiced rub lamb lollipops, spicy tuna tartare on lotus root chip, wild rice croquettes, vegetable samosas, and seared beef on toast. Each serving was paired with a different wine. Most of the time the selection worked.

The Downside: this was an enormous food pairing, some seven foods with 14 wines. It was necessary to swallow since there were no "food" spittoons. I stopped quickly once I felt a buzz.

The Upside: a good chance to taste a wide variety of Australian wines at around the $15 price point.

The Contact Person: www.apluswines.com or trina.hendry@lcbo.com

The Marketing Effectiveness/Execution of the Event(numerical grade): 91.