June 28/11: APVSA Summer wine tasting in Toronto (agents only)

 The Time and Date: Tuesday, June 28, 2011  10AM to 6 PM

The Event: the monthly APVSA tasting (Association pour la promotion des

vins et spiritueux en Amerique du Nord).

The Venue: Delta Chelsea Inn

The Target Audience: wine agents.

The Availability/Catalogue: no wines are currently available in

Ontario. The group is here to get some agents to agree to rep

the principal. Some of the wines are available in Quebec and Alberta.

Most of the wines were French, and there is sales staff available to

comment on the prices and production. This road show also visits such

places as New York, Los Angeles, Seattle, Las Vegas, Calgary,

Vancouver, Miami, Washington DC, and Montreal. Occasionally, the show

will have wines from Italy, Uruguay, Spain and Australia. Sometimes spirits and VDN are also available.

The Wines: The problem I had with the wines, and one that must be

acknowledged, is that (by and large) they were about the same as wines

that we already have here in Ontario. There really did not seem to be

any price advantages, either. But these 40 or so wines could be made

available through Vintages or Consignment. In the past, quite a few

have been picked up for sale in Ontario. They were mostly the good

value or unique wines. Here were my faves, regardless of price (all

prices are ex-cellar Euros). I did not try every wine.

The Wines:

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Armand Hurst Grand Cru Gewurztraminer 2009 Cuvee Angelique, 11.50 E

-Armand Hurst Grand Cru Riesling 2008 Vieilles Vignes, 8.50 E

-Henri et Luc Faller Gewurztraminer 2009 Vieilles Vignes (organic)

-Cave Monge Granon Clairette de Die Tradition, 3.45 E

-Serge Liotaud et Fils IGP Coteaux des Baronnies Rose 2009 (organic), 2.95 E

-Serge Liotaud et Fils IGP Coteaux des Baronnies Blanc 2009 (organic), 2.95 E.

-Chateau Barrejat Madiran Seduction 2009, 4.45 E

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Armand Hurst Grand Cru Pinot Gris 2009 Vieilles Vignes, 11.50 E

-Armand Hurst Grand Cru Gewurztraminer 2009 Cuvee Angelique, 11.50 E

-Armand Hurst Grand Cru Riesling 2003, 7 E

-Armand Hurst Riesling 2009, 4 E

-Dom. Perraud EARL Macon Villages Chardonnay 2009

-Dom. Perraud EARL Macon La Roche Vineuse 2008, 5.70 E

-Dom. Perraud EARL Bourgogne Rouge Les Forets 2008, 5.70 E

-Dom. De la Coche Eccho 2010 IGP Val de Loire, 2.80 E

-Dom. Sauvete Sauvignon Blanc Touraine 2010, 3.60 E

-Dom. Sauvete Antea Rouge 2008, 4.40 E

-Dom. De l'Aujardiere La Noe Muscadet sur Lie Cotes de Grandlieu 2009, 3.60

-Dom. Martin Muscadet Sevre et Maine sur lie Terres Antiques 2010, 2.40 E

-Dom. Martin Muscadet Sevre et Maine sur lie le Perd son Pain 2010, 2.56 E

-Cave Monge Granon Clairette de Die Tradition Cuvee Pur Muscat, 3.95 E

-Serge Liotaud et Fils IGP Coteaux des Baronnies Rouge 2009 (organic), 2.96 E

-Chateau Barrejat Madiran Tradition 2009, 3.02 E

-Chateau Barrejat Madiran Vieux Ceps 2009, 5.82 E

-Dom. Mazilly Pere et Fils Beaune 1er Cru Les Vignes Franches 2009, 10.45 E

-Dom. Mazilly Pere et Fils Pommard 2009, 11.88 E

-Dom. Mazilly Pere et Fils Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Beaune Blanc 2009, 6.05 E

-Colbois Chablis 2009 Eleve en Fut de Chene, 7.35 E

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Armand Hurst Pinot Blanc 2009, 3.60 E

-Henri et Luc Faller Riesling 2010 (organic), 7 E

-Chateau Ferran Bordeaux Rouge 2008, 6 E

-Dom. Perraud EARL Macon Rouge La Ville 2008, 5.70 E

-Dom. De la Brossette Touraine Rouge 2010, 12.5 E

-Dom. De la Coche La Salle aux Fees Muscadet 2010, 3.30 E

-Dom. De la Coche Chardonnay 2010 IGP Val de Loire, 2.30 E

-Dom. Sauvete Touraine Rouge 2008, 5.60 E

-Dom. Mazilly Pere et Fils Beaune 1er Cru Les Montrevenots 2009, 10.06 E

-Dom. Mazilly Pere et Fils Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Beaune Clos du Bois Prevot 2009, 5.10 E

-Colbois Chablis 2009, 5.95 E

-Colbois Bourgogne Chitray 2009, 4.60 E

-Colbois Bourgogne Aligote 2009, 3.85 E

 

The Downside: selection is eclectic and some bottles arrive

haphazardly. Some bottles never arrived at all, but we were not told

this until we arrived. Some bottles are in the show, but are not

listed in the catalogue. It can be frustrating.

The Upside: a chance to taste some engaging wines not available here.

There is a listing of wines with FOB prices in Euros.

The Contact Person: Pascal p.fernand@apvsa.ca

The Marketing Effectiveness/Execution of the Event(numerical grade): 84.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

June "Wines of South Africa Workshops" at Morton's

1. The Time and Date: Wednesday, June 15, 2011  10:30 AM to 5:30 PM

The Event: Wines of South Africa (WOSA) Wine Workshops 2011

The Venue: Morton's The Steakhouse, Avenue Road

The Target Audience: wine media and sommeliers and agents.

The Availability/Catalogue: most wines are available on consignment or by private order.

The Quote/Background: the four workshops promoted 11 chenin blancs, 9 new blends, 7 higher end blends, and 12 flagship reds. The workshops were part of a North American campaign through New York, Washington, Chicago, Montreal and Toronto. There were eleven winemakers/marketers/owners who presented their wines. After each session there was a Q and A.

The Wines:

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Ken Forrester Reserve Chenin Blanc 2010, 14.5% ABV

-The FMC BF 2009, 14%

-De Morgenzon Chenin Blanc 2007, 13.5%

-Reyneke Reserve White 2009, 13.5%  biodynamic

-Reyneke Reserve Red 2007, 14% biodynamic

-Le Bonheur Prima 2007, 13.47%

-De Toren Fusion V 2004, 15%

-Morgenster 2001, 14.5%

-Vilafonte Series m 2007, 14.8%

-Warwick Three Cape Ladies 2008, 14.49%

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Bellingham Citrus Grove Chenin Blanc 2010, 14% ABV

-De Morgenzon Chenin Blanc 2009, 14%

-Paul Cluver Sauvignon Blanc 2010, 13.5%

-Paul Cluver Chardonnay 2009, 13.5%

-Thandi Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, 14.5%

-Waterford Estate The Jem 2007, 14%

-Nederburg Ingenuity Red 2008, 14.5%  sangiovese, barbera

-Lomond Snowbush White 2009, 14.08%

-Plaisir de Merle Grand Plaisir 2007, 14%

-Raats Family Cabernet Franc 2007, 13.5%

-MR de Compostelle 2007, 14%

-Morgenster 2003, 13.5%

-Morgenster 2005, 14.5%

-Vilafonte Series c 2007, 15%

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Cederberg Chenin Blanc 2010, 13% ABV

-Rudera de Tradisie Chenin Blanc 2009, 14%

-The Bernard Series Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2010, 14.5%

-Mulderbosch Chenin Blanc/Steen-op-Hout 2010, 14%

-Raats Family Wines Chenin Blanc 2009, 14%

-Reyneke Cornerstone 2009, 14% biodynamic

-Paul Cluver Close Encounter Riesling 2010, 9.75%

-Thandi Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2010, 12.5% 60/40

-Thandi Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, 14%  70/39

-Waterford Estate Pecan Stream Pebble Hill 2008, 13.5%

-Nederburg Ingenuity White 2009, 13.5% riesling, viognier, chenin blanc

-De Toren Z 2009, 15%

-De Toren Fusion V 2009, 15%

-Raats Family Cabernet Franc 2008, 14%

 

The Food: for lunch we had a Caesar salad, a steak with mash potatoes OR a salmon with green beans, followed by a lime pie (which was actually postponed until much later because we were running late).

The Downside: we began over a half-hour late (the seminar was called for 10:30 sharp).

The Upside: An informative booklet detailed background on each winemaker and his winery, plus website information. There was more information about this and the European/Asiatic tours at www.wosawineworkshops.com

The Contact Person: keenan@propellerpr.com

The Marketing Effectiveness/Execution of the Event(numerical grade): 88.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

June 21/11: Chateau des Charmes Equuleus Vertical Tasting and Dinner

 The Time and Date: June 21, 2011  4PM to 10 PM

The Event: Chateau des Charmes winemaker's 9 wine Equuleus vertical tasting followed by a winemaker's dinner, all conducted by Paul Bosc, Jr.

The Venue: Ritz-Carlton

The Target Audience: clients and media

The Availability/Catalogue: all of the newer wines are available, the older vintages of Equuleus (known then as Cabernets) came from the Chateau's library. Equuleus is only made in the better years.

The Quote/Background:  Bosc spoke on the wines, climate, and grapes used (even those years when the wine was declassified). Each year is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc, and 25% Merlot. The vineyard has always been the Paul Bosc Vineyard (first planted in 1983/84) on St. David's Bench. The wine was first produced in 1988 as Cabernets, and we had the 1991, 1994 and 1995. Under its new name, Equuelus, we had the 2002, 2005, 2007 and 2010 (three different barrel samples from the pre-blended cellars).

 

The Wines: All the wines showed extremely well; they are capable of long aging.

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Chateau des Charmes Cabernets VQA Paul Bosc Vineyard St. David's Bench 1995

-Chateau des Charmes Equuleus VQA Paul Bosc Vineyard St. David's Bench 2005

-Chateau des Charmes Equuleus VQA Paul Bosc Vineyard St. David's Bench 2010

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Chateau des Charmes Cabernets VQA Paul Bosc Vineyard St. David's Bench 1994

-Chateau des Charmes Equuleus VQA Paul Bosc Vineyard St. David's Bench 2002

-Chateau des Charmes Equuleus VQA Paul Bosc Vineyard St. David's Bench 2007

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Chateau des Charmes Cabernets VQA Paul Bosc Vineyard St. David's Bench 1991

 

The Food: The winemaker's dinner began with flutes of Chateau des Charmes Rose 2008 Sparkling wine (Silver Medalist at OWA). All of the wines tonight, from the tasting through reception to dinner, came from the Paul Bosc Estate vineyard on St. David's Bench. We began with heirloom tomato and Ontario mozzarella salad, basil pesto, white balsamic (Château des Charmes Sauvignon Blanc 2010 PB Vineyard, *** 1/2), followed by butter poached lobster, spring risotto, crisp bacon lardons, fine herbs (Château des Charmes Chardonnay Paul Bosc Estate 2007, ****). The main course was porcini crusted filet mignon, garlic whipped potatoes, root vegetable, Equuleus shallot reduction (of course, Château des Charmes Equuleus 2005, ****). Dessert was vanilla crème brûlée, marinated berries, lemon sorbet (Château des Charmes Riesling Icewine 2007 PB Vineyard). The dinner was created by Chef Andreas Schatzschneider.

The Downside: we started a half-hour late.

The Upside: all the red wines were constantly changing in the glass.

The Contact Person: Michele@chateaudescharmes.com

The Marketing Effectiveness/Execution of the Event(numerical grade): 91.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

June 20/11: Henry of Pelham vertical tasting of Baco Noir Reserve.

The Time and Date: June 20, 2011  10:30 AM to 1:30 PM

The Event: a vertical tasting of Henry of Pelham Reserve Baco Noir, 9 wines in all, sponsored by the Wine Writers' Circle of Canada.

The Venue: LCBO Kitchen Event, Summerhill Store #10

The Target Audience: WWCC members

The Availability/Catalogue: most of these wines were drawn from HOP's cellars; only the latest vintages are available. The tank sample will be out in a few more years.

The Quote/Background: Paul Speck, one of the owners along with his brothers, led the tasting. He gave us vintage notes and approaches year by year. As well, Ron Giesbrecht (the winemaker at Henry of Pelham) gave his impressions. Henry of Pelham started making BN as a wine in 1988. They began with a Reserve in 1995 (oak treatment is always 100% US oak, of which 60% is new; the wine rests in oak for up to 18 months for the Reserve; sometimes 8-15% of Merlot and/or Cabernet Franc will be added). Only 1500 cases are made (12,000 are made of the regular BN), and this wine comes from their oldest block.

The Wines: The vintages tasted ranged from 1997 to 2009-2010 barrel samples, Missing were 1995, 1996, 2001, 2003 - 2006 (no Reserve was made in those years, and 2005 was sold out). In general, the older BN fell apart quickly, although and "aged" nose became quite tasty and toasty on the initial run through.

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Henry of Pelham Baco Noir Reserve VQA 2002

-Henry of Pelham Baco Noir Reserve VQA 2007

-Henry of Pelham Baco Noir Reserve VQA 2010

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Henry of Pelham Baco Noir Reserve VQA 1997

-Henry of Pelham Baco Noir Reserve VQA 2000

-Henry of Pelham Baco Noir Reserve VQA 2008

-Henry of Pelham Baco Noir Reserve VQA 2009

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Henry of Pelham Baco Noir Reserve VQA 1998

-Henry of Pelham Baco Noir Reserve VQA 1999

 

The Downside: we were a late in getting started. Also, I would have liked to have tasted some older vintages of the regular Baco Noir.

The Upside: The BN wines were followed by Henry of Pelham Family Tree White 2009 (Viognier, Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer and Chardonnay Musqué) a new entrant in the white blend field with spices and fruit tones at $17.95, 400 cases; Henry of Pelham Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2008, $18.95; and Henry of Pelham Family Tree Red 2009 (Merlot, Syrah, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc), also $17.95. Because he had our attention, Paul shifted to his wine importer hat and showed off some Spanish wines. Tony Batet, who represents Torres wines in Canada, did a vertical of Torres Mas La Plana Cabernet Sauvignon 1994, 1996, 1999, 2005 and 2007 (the latter due to arrive in Vintages in November). It was formerly known as Coronas Black Label. I pretty well liked them all, with the 1996 showing well and the 1994 showing least.

The Contact Person: ptspeck@henryofpelham.com

The Marketing Effectiveness/Execution of the Event(numerical grade): 91.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR JULY 9, 2011

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR JULY 9, 2011
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is a guide to
thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers
and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1995. My tastings are based on
MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price
Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE:
The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine
writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not available for re-
tasting.

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Agustinos Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Bio Bio Chile: your basic MVC
savvy, affordable for summer consumption. +213595, $12.95, QPR: 89.
2. Summerhouse Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Marlborough: delicious intensity
for a NZ savvy without the blatant grass. 13.5% ABV. +218305, $19.95,
QPR: 90.
3. Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler Riesling 2009 QbA Mosel: great summer sipper at
8.5% ABV. Medium-dry, long finish of peaches. +596601, $12.95, QPR: 89.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Gnarly Head Old Vine Zinfandel 2009 Lodi: Juicy Lucy, 14.5% ABV.
+678698, $16.95, QPR: 89.
2. Lamadrid Single Vineyard Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Mendoza:
soft enough to be a merlot? 14.5% ABV. Ready now. +223206, $16.95, QPR:
89.
3. Concha y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Syrah 2008 Maipo: another juicy
specimen, 14.5% ABV, +19042, $19.95, QPR: 89.
4. Dandelion Sister's Run God's Hill Shiraz 2008 Barossa: another full
ripe red wine, another 14.5% ABV, price slightly lower than above three
wines. +222018, $15.95, QPR: 89.
5. Lomond Syrah 2008 Cape Aguihas South Africa: heady, bright, in-your-
face with red fruits, yet in definite Euro-mode. 14% ABV. +146464,
$19.95, QPR: 90.
6. Aubert Visan Cotes du Rhone-Villages 2009: juicy and delicious but
with domination by syrah flavours even though syrah comprises only 20%
of total (grenache is the other 80%). 14.5% ABV compares well with New
World wines, yet it is priced to go. Load up! +224915, $12.95, QPR: 91.
7. Paolo Leo Riserva Salice Salentino 2006: nicely and richly aged,
13.5% ABV, black and red fruits and barrel tones. Fabulous finish.
+214700, $14.95, QPR: 90.
8. Zenato Cormi 2007 IGT Veneto: blend of corvina and merlot. A
definite BBQ wine, lighter than most, ready now for summer. 13.5% ABV.
+108282, $17.95, QPR: 89.
9. Lan Reserva 2005 Rioja: good MVC detail. Only one year in mainly US
oak, 13.5% ABV, smoky, ripe, with an appreciable finish. +42929,
$19.95, QPR: 90.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1. Flat Rock Cellars Seriously Twisted 2008 VQA Twenty Mile Bench,
+877783, $22.95 retail.
2. Far Niente Estate Chardonnay 2009 Napa, +539130, $57.95.
3. Ironstone Estate Grown Reserve Chardonnay 2009 Sierra Foothills,
+158774, $25.95.
4. R de Rieussec 2007 Bordeaux Blanc, +100891, $22.
5. Hidden Bench Terroir Cache Meritage 2008, +505610, $35.20.
6. Saltram Mamre Brook Shiraz 2008 Barossa, +32227, $24.95.
7. Thorn-Clarke Shotfire Shiraz 2008 Barossa, +18796, $21.95.
8. Chateau Hourbanon 2003 Medoc, +125922, $21.95.
9. Terre del Barolo Monvigliero Barolo 2004, +97535, $33.95.
10. Tenuta di Ghizzano Veneroso 2007 IGT Toscana, +103218, $29.95.
11. Ramos Pinto Duas Quintas Reserva 2007 Douro, +951301, $21.95.
12. La Rioja Alta Fina Alberdi Reserva 2003 Rioja, +161893, $29.95.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

July 1: Many Food and Drink Books this month...

2. JEKKA'S HERB COOKBOOK (Firefly, 2011, 352 pages, ISBN 978-1-55407-
814-1, $29.95 CAD) is by Jekka McVicar, who sells herbs through her a
award winning Jekka's Herb Farm in the UK. It has been published in the
UK by Ebury Press. Here are 250 recipes using her top 50 garden herbs
(out of 650 different varieties that she has grown for over 20 years.
Although she has published several books on herbs, this is her first
cookbook. The value of herbs, of course, is that they enhance flavours.
And, of course, there are some medicinal properties as well for many of
them. The range covers the popular parsley to the exotic curry leaf.
The 50 chapters are arranged alphabetically by common name, and discuss
how the herb is grown, its varieties (with botanical features and Latin
names) and benefits, growing and harvesting. as well as an average of
five preps each. Non-culinary uses are mentioned, and there are
suggestions for using the excess harvest. The preps cover all courses
and global cuisines. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both
metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric
equivalents. There's more at www.jekkasherbfarm.com.
Audience and level of use: cooks and gardeners.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: Good King Henry croquettes;
lemon balm salsa; beef stew with myrtle and cinnamon; rosemary lamb
hotchpotch; asparagus and chervil soup; stevia carrot cake; sea bass
with fennel and olives; purslane and flageolet salad; braised red
cabbage with winter savory.
The downside to this book: some of the colours have a lighter typeface
which makes it difficult to read sometimes.
The upside to this book: there are botanical and medicinal glossaries
at the back.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.

 

 

 

FARM TOGETHER NOW; a portrait of people, places, and ideas for a new
food movement (Chronicle Books, 2010, 192 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-6711-
5, $27.50 US hard covers) is by Amy Franceschini and Daniel Tucker.
There's log rolling from five prominent writers in the shrinking global
food supply area. And a foreword by Mark Bittman (copyright 2011, while
the rest of the book is copyright 2010). Bittman concentrates on why
farms matter. There are 20 projects in the book from across the USA.
They chose to seek out and interview farmers and groups who are
changing the way that the US food system works: philosophies, public
policy, history, soil and distribution channels. All interviews reflect
various approaches and opposing philosophies: food justice, sustainable
agriculture, locavore movement, and the like. There's the Knopik Family
Farm in Nebraska (1000 grazing acres, 400 crop acres; 200 cows)
believers in environmental activism, as does Greeno Acres in Wisconsin
(producing raw milk from 160 acres). There's Tryon Life Community Farm
(15 adults and 3 children on seven acres), the Angelics Organics
Learning Center in Illinois (12 staff, 220 acres), and the Acequiahood
of the San Luis People's Ditch (16 water users, 2100 acres of crops).
There's a glossary of terms (e.g., bioregion, GMOs, co-ops, CSA) and an
index. And some wonderful colour photos of the profilees.
Audience and level of use: the concerned or committed global food
person.
Some interesting or unusual facts: "food justice" focuses on the belief
that global hunger is not the result of a lack of food but the lack of
political will to ensure fair distribution.
The downside to this book: lack of a discussion about "organic" and
"fair trade".
The upside to this book: this is important reading matter.
Quality/Price Rating: 91.

 

 

 

400 BEST SANDWICH RECIPES; from classics & burgers to wraps &
condiments (Robert Rose, 2011, 360 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0265-6,
$24.95 US paper covers) is by Alison Lewis, a recipe developer and food
writer in Alabama. She specializes in healthy, food-friendly recipes
that are easy to prepare.

 

THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF SANDWICHES; recipes, history and trivia for
everything between sliced bread (Quirk Books, 2010, 300 pages, ISBN
978-1-59474-438-9, $18.95 US paper covers) is by Susan Russo, a food
writer (NPR) and blogger.

 

Both books are being reviewed here because I got them at the same time.
In Lewis' book, the preps are arranged by format – breakfast and brunch
sandwiches, lunch box, classics, grilled cheese, burgers, wraps,
international, light and healthy, condiments, and dessert sandwiches.
Russo's book is arranged by title, in true "encyclopedia" fashion. It
begins and ends with indexes to ingredients and to sandwiches. It also
has more photographs than the Lewis book, despite there being only half
as many preps (about 200). Many preps are duplicated, after a fashion,
with variations. Russo has a curried chicken salad sandwich on bread (a
wide choice), while Lewis has a curried chicken wrap. Russo differs by
using carrots and cashews, with some yogurt, while Lewis has chutney,
pecans, and cranberries. Most of the rest is in common, and you can
certainly wrap Russo up and make Lewis a sandwich. So it is really six
of one and half a dozen of another. Other preps have these same
similarities. Both authors are American, but Rose is a Canadian
publisher, so there is both avoirdupois and metric in the listing of
ingredients, while Russo has a table of metric equivalents. Both books
have interesting photos, but you can have too many shots of sandwiches,
and they all get routine after awhile. There's a bit more culinary
history and trivia in Russo, but there is no denying the quantity in
Lewis's book. If you are looking for materials to place in or around
some slices of carbohydrates, then remember that almost any sandwich
can be a wrap and vice versa. I like the arrangement of the Lewis book
better, for ideas of a certain pattern are grouped together there, such
as school lunches.
Audience and level of use: anyone who needs a sandwich.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: Lewis – grilled apricot blue
cheese, quinoa tabbouleh, veggie enchiladas, stuffed pizza burgers.
Russo – frittata sandwich, various panini, walleye sandwich, doughnut
sandwich.
The downside to this book: not as many recipes in the Russo book.
The upside to this book: Lewis book has more variations and
substitutions.
Quality/Price Rating: Lewis – 89; Russo – 83.

 

 

 

SALAD AS A MEAL; healthy main-dish salads for every season (William
Morrow, 2011, 360 pages, ISBN 978-0-06-123883-3, $34.99 US hard covers)
is by Patricia Wells, multiple food award winner (many Beards). This is
her twelfth book; she was also restaurant critic for the IHT for a
quarter-century. Most of her books show a strong French-influence, and
this one is no exception, with veggies from her Provencal garden. Here
are 150 recipes, almost 40 apiece for each season. Arrangement, though,
is by major ingredient, so there are salads which use grains, eggs,
cheese, fish, shellfish, meats, and poultry. She has separate chapters
on "classic salads", appetizers, breads, dressings, and sauces. All the
salads are light and healthy, and the photos are nicely framed by her
gardens and outdoor settings. Preparations have their ingredients
listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric
equivalents. Good layout with sufficient white space and dark type. And
of course there are nine recipes with her signature potato food.
Audience and level of use: beginner to intermediate levels.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: penne salad with tuna and
spicy mustard; Caesar salad with polenta croutons; frisee aux lardons;
salade nicoise with grilled tuna; halibut cheeks with polenta and
parmesan crust; mussel tartines with chorizo; smoked duck breast with
mushrooms and cracklings.
The downside to this book: she has a pantry and equipment section, but
it is full of items for purchase through her commercial website.
The upside to this book: there is an alternate list of Internet food
sources that covers the USA.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.

 

 

 

EVERYDAY FLEXITARIAN; recipes for vegetarians & meat lovers alike
(Whitecap, 2011, 276 pages, ISBN 978-1-77050-021-1, $29.95 Canadian
soft covers) is by Nettie Cronish (multiple vegetarian cookbook author
and chair of the Women's Culinary Network) and Pat Crocker (food writer
and vegan cookbook author). "Flexitarian" is the latest jump word for
food lovers who eat a little meat with their meals ("pescetarian" is
supposed to be the term for vegetarians who eat fish). The idea of
cutting back on meat makes sense, particularly since so much of it has
been medically-enhanced one way or another. It's also a valid approach
to eating organic meat: one has a meat budget, and if one is to eat
less meat, then one should eat better – and more expensive – organic
meat. Or vice versa. So what we have here is a tasty vegetarian book
that has been tailored for meat. The cook can either integrate or
segregate; it is a good beginning. Traditionally arranged from apps to
desserts and beverages, the book also has separate sections on
pantries, kids and Canadian Organic Food Standards. Unless one has
strong feelings against meat, the flexitarian approach will work.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents.
Usually, Cronish gives the vegetarian recipe, and Crocker adds the meat
interpretation.
Audience and level of use: intermediate cooks
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: shrimp (or tempeh) curry
with lime and nut butter; chicken mole; broccoli rabe crepes (with and
without Italian sausages; lentil mushroom moussaka (with or without
baked salmon); vegetable shepherd's pie (with or without lamb kabobs);
roasted cashew curry with cauliflower and peas (with and without
chicken).
The downside to this book: it is a very heavy book (weight wise) and
seems to make cooking life a bit more complicated that it could be.
The upside to this book: a good idea to adapt vegetarian dishes.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

 

 

SUPER NATURAL EVERY DAY; well-loved recipes from my natural foods
kitchen (Ten Speed Press, 2011, 250 pages, ISBN 9788-1-58008-277-8, $23
US paper covers) is by Heidi Swanson, creator of www.101cookbooks.com,
food writer and multiple cookbook author. This latest book advances her
Super Natural Cooking book (2007). "Natural Cooking" occurs five ways:
eat from a colourful plate; use all kinds of whole grains; use organic
natural sweeteners; consume healthy oils (mostly organic); and eat
phytonutrient-packed ingredients and foods. She has 100 recipes here,
plus details for beginning a pantry. These are everyday recipes, very
good for work nights during the week. You can see www.101cookbooks.com
for more recipes and other techniques. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but
there is no table of equivalents. It does do an excellent job of
concentrating on grains, oils and sweets – which many people forget
about.
Audience and level of use: those concerned about their food.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: farro soup; rye soda bread;
white beans and cabbage; pan-fired mung beans with tempeh; harissa
ravioli; stuffed medjool dates; membrillo cake.
The downside to this book: there is no mention of stevia
The upside to this book: thick, sturdy pages.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.

 

 

 

EVERYDAY TO ENTERTAINING (Robert Rose, 2011, 384 pages, ISBN 978-0-
7788-0271-6, $24.95 US paper covers) is by Meredith Deeds (US cookbook
author and food writer) and Carla Snyder (baker, caterer, cooking
school teacher and cookbook author). The premise is to present some 200
recipes that can transform from "casual" to "elegant". All the preps
here come in pairs: there is a basic everyday version (say, macaroni
and cheese) and an entertaining version (say, quattro fromaggio baked
penne with wild mushroom and pancetta). Preparations have their
ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but
there is no table of equivalents. It has been typically arranged from
apps to desserts, with a section on the pantry. And it is very
colourfully arranged, with contents pages indicating what the casual
(highlighted in green tabs) becomes when it is elegant (blue tab
highlights). There's also an alphabetical index at the back should you
lose your way. All courses and types of plates are covered.
Audience and level of use: beginners who aspire
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: beef kabobs with ras al
hanout can also be Middle Eastern beef kabobs with garlic hummus sauce;
mustard and garlic-roasted pork loin can be glazed pork loin stuffed
with apricots and figs; corn spoonbread can be cheese-chile-cilantro
corn spoonbread; sugar snap peas and sesame can be sugar snap peas with
carrots-edamame-mint; chocolate mousse can become chocolate mousse-
filled profiteroles.
The downside to this book: elegant presentations could have been
emphasized more – they can add something to "casual" food, even mac and
cheese or burgers.
The upside to this book: strewn along the way on the recipe pages are
tips and technique advice.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

 

 

THE COMPLETE HOMEBREW BEER BOOK; 200 easy recipes from ales & lagers to
extreme beers & international favorites (Robert Rose, 2011, 456 pages,
ISBN 978-0-7788-0268-6, $24.95 US paper covers) is by George Hummel, an
award-winning homebrewer and homebrew shop owner in Philadelphia. He
has brewed beer with Michael Jackson, the Nodding Head Brewery, and
Dogfish Head. Solid credentials…This is a fairly comprehensive book,
ranging from can kits to malt extract to actual grain. The level of
difficulty or time involved is directly proportional to the amount of
processing that has already occurred in the ingredients. I started with
a kit, and it was easy as falling off a log. Within a few years, I was
working with grains – and found it hard work. But it paid off. Indeed,
homebrewed beer is just as good (if not better) than any craft beer. I
wish the same was true of homewinemaking. I have not made beer for
awhile since it went straight to my gut. But don't let that discourage
you. Hummel talks here about the hops, the malts, the different styles
throughout the world, and how to duplicate them all at home. You can
have fun for the next decade doing all of these. There is even a
section on meads and one on ciders (including cider with brettanomyces
for that Norman complexity, and perry), plus recipes for root beer,
birch beer, and other sodas. There's a glossary at the end.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table equivalents. Throughout
there are brewer tips and trivia items, which make great reading.
Audience and level of use: for homebrewers and a good reference book as
well.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: The Pilgrims stopped at
Plymouth Rock so that they could homebrew.
The downside to this book: I did not see anything in the index about
skunkiness.
The upside to this book: good collection of recipes.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

 

 

DUTCH OVEN COOKING (Gibbs-Smith, 2011; distr. Raincoast, 128 pages,
ISBN 978-1-4236-1459-3, $15.99 US spiral bound) is by Terry Lewis, a
two-time winner of the World Championship Cook-offs held by the
International Dutch Oven Society. He has been cooking and competing in
such events for over 20 years. His Dutch Oven is meant to be on a bed
of coals; thus, for every recipe, he lists how many hot coals will be
needed. This may limit its usage in many places. For example, the
omelet requires 31 hot coals, including 9 under the oven and 16 on the
top. In general, each coal will raise the temperature about 20 degrees
Fahrenheit. This is a basic book, with adaptations for lasagna, pizza,
corn bread, baked beans, chicken and rice, and others. Preparations
have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is
a table of metric equivalents. The basic arrangement is by entry level:
beginner, intermediate, and advanced. Within each range there are
categories for breads, sides, mains and desserts. It all appears to be
finger-lickin' good and authentic.
Audience and level of use: Dutch oven users
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: almost 60 recipes, including
chicken and cheese chimichangas, maple BBQ ribs with buttered almond
rice, and peach-raspberry pie.
Quality/Price Rating: 85.

 

 

 

BREAD MAKING; a home course (Storey Publishing, 2011, 296 pages, ISBN
978-1-60342-791-3, $16.95 US soft covers) is by Lauren Chatman, an IACP
award winner who has written 10 books. Her book deals with core bread-
making techniques for the novice. There's the first section primer on
flour types, ingredients, techniques and equipment, knives, mixers and
processors. The second section has the recipes, from basics to
artisanal. There's even some material on lower-gluten bread, but not on
gluten-free breads. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both
metric and  avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of
equivalents. Recipe ingredients are scaled, of course. Bread machines,
instant yeast and kneading techniques are amply covered, and each
chapter has a trouble-shooting section. Good bold black typefaces and
white space in the layout.
Audience and level of use: just about every skill level is used here.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: ciabatta; grilled whole
wheat naan; overnight English muffins; rustic flax seed rolls; spelt
batardes;
The downside to this book: only US websites and resources are quoted at
the back.
The upside to this book: it is chock full of technique tips and advice.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.

 

 

 

300 BEST TACO RECIPES; from tantalizing tacos to authentic tortillas,
sauces, cocktails & salsas (Robert Rose, 2011, 384 pages, ISBN 978-0-
7788-0267-9, $24.95 US paper covers) is by Kelley Cleary Coffeen, a New
Mexico-based food writer whose specialty is Mexican-style foods and
beverages. The publisher promotes this book as a taco a day for all
family members. Everything culinary about the American Southwest can be
displayed between folds of fried (or baked) tortillas. Her book opens
with a review of taco history, the basic sauces and toppings, and the
use of flour tortillas. She encourages home cooks to make their own
tortillas. Certainly, if you are going to eat a lot of them, it would
be worth your while. Most tacos are made with poultry, and she has 80
pages worth of preps here. Beef is next with sixty pages, followed by
pork and lamb (40), fish and seafood (35), and vegetarian (55). There
are even some Asian, Italian, German and French variations on the taco
theme. Food can be prepared in minutes, and if you make them yourselves
(with control over them), then you can control levels of fat and salt.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: taco lovers, Mexican food lovers.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: tri-tip tacos with fresh
roasted green chiles; grilled ranch chicken tacos; roasted garlic,
chicken and mushroom tacos; roasted chicken, cheddar and bacon tacos;
spicy crab tacos; coconut shrimp tacos with orange salsa; sundae tacos
with Mexican chocolate sauce; pecan crunch tacos.
The downside to this book: I am not sure why there are cocktail recipes
here.
The upside to this book: good database collection of tacos at a
reasonable price, with metric measurements.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.

 

CHICKEN AND EGG; a memoir of suburban homesteading with 125 recipes
(Chronicle Books, 2011; distr. Raincoast, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-
7045-0, $24.95 US paper covers) is by Janice Cole, a former chef and
restaurant owner who is now a food writer and blogger. Five years ago,
she started raising chickens in her suburban backyard. This book is
about her exploits (and those of the chickens). She started with three
chicks in St. Paul's, Minnesota. She takes us through the first year of
her challenges, beginning with early spring. The preps are also
arranged in this fashion, with memoir material strewn about.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there are tables of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: for chicken and egg lovers, and food
memoirists.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: smoked wings with cilantro
dip; sage frittata with charred tomatoes and curly parmesan; morning
eggs on mushroom-bacon hash; Burmese fried rice with eggs; cranberry-
pear bread pudding with bourbon sauce; tossed greens with strawberries,
avocado and eggs.
The downside to this book: I kept wanting it to go on, but to read
more, you'll have to go to http://janicecole.net/blog
The upside to this book: good quality writing.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

* FOOD BOOKS OF THE MONTH! *

 

* FOOD BOOKS OF THE MONTH! *

 

DATES; a global history (Reaktion Books, 2011, 136 pages, ISBN 978-
1-86189-796-1, $15.95 US hard covers) is by Nawal Nasrallah, a
researcher and food writer specializing in Middle East cuisine.

 

ICE CREAM; a global history (Reaktion Books, 2011, 176 pages, ISBN 978-
1-86189-792-3, $15.95 US hard covers) is by Laura B. Weiss, a New York
City journalist who specializes in lifestyle writing.

 

LOBSTER; a global history (Reaktion Books, 2011, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-
86189-794-7, $15.95 US hard covers) is by Elisabeth Townsend, a
Massachusetts-based food and wine writer.

 

POTATO; a global history (Reaktion Books, 2011, 142 pages, ISBN 978-1-
86189-799-2, $15.95 US hard covers) is by Andrew F. Smith, who teaches
culinary history at the New School in NYC. His previous books have been
about junk food and "Hamburger", the latter for this current series,
The Edible Series. He's also the editor of the series which now numbers
some 20 books in a uniform format.

 

Edible is a great series, offering fingernail profiles and engaging
memoirs of foods. You don't need to collect them all: if you hate
lobsters, then just avoid that book. Each book has a selection of
recipes (with both metric and avoirdupois measurements), end notes,
bibliography, and a listing of websites and associations. There are
also terrific full-colour photos and an index.

 

"Dates" is a straight-forward history, beginning with Mesopotamia and
moving forward with the role that the date palm has played in the
Middle East economy. A lot of the book has anecdotes, etymology,
culture, legends and religious attitudes about dates.

 

"Ice Cream" is the longest book in the series, but it is also the food
probably most worked over in the foodbook/cookbook genre. It is good,
though, to have some global history of the product before segueing into
American territory. Weiss says that ice cream, began in ancient China
and ends in modern Tokyo. Italian immigrant ice cream vendors played a
big role in North America.

 

"Lobster" has long been peasant food. Those living by the ocean had to
eat it, to the shame and mortification of those poorer students who
were forced to eat lobster sandwiches for lunch in the school
cafeteria. They were laughed at. Now lobsters are big ticket items,
although coast dwellers still remember their penurious beginnings. This
is a good account of the social history of global lobster eating.

 

"Potato" is a Western Hemisphere product, rising from the Pre-Columbian
period in the Andes to its role as a staple today. Of course, there's a
fair bit of material about Ireland and the blight/famine. There's even
a mention of poutine. It's easy to grow and is a good choice for
carbohydrates.

 

Audience and level of use: culinary historians, food lovers.
Some interesting or unusual facts: Popular ice cream flavours in Japan
include green tea, crab, sea urchin, wasabi, beef tongue, eel, and
garlic. The biggest date celebration in the world is the National Date
Festival (Indio, California). Indonesians eat their French fries with
sate sauce, Belgians with mayonnaise, Bulgarians with grated white
cheese, and Vietnamese with sugar and butter. Spiny lobsters adorn an
Egyptian temple from the fifteenth century BC.
The downside to this book: as with any profile, occasionally one may
wish for more detail about certain points.
The upside to this book: good, nifty self-contained books.
Quality/Price Rating: 90.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com