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Sunday, April 22, 2012

THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...

...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback
reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher
a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will
reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will
rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text
while keeping the focus tight. Here are some recent "re-editions"...
 
22. 150 BEST VEGAN MUFFIN RECIPES (Robert Rose, 2012, 192 pages, ISBN
978-0-7788-0292-1, $19.95 CAD paper covers)
 
And
 
23. 150 BEST GLUTEN-FREE MUFFIN RECIPES (Robert Rose, 2012, 192 pages,
ISBN 978-0-7788-0291-4, $19.95 CAD paper covers) are both by Camilla V.
Saulsbury, a freelance recipe developer and writer who has won several
US cooking competitions and cook-offs. She's also got about 15
cookbooks under her belt. These two books are complementary; most
purchasers, especially those with medical issues, will want both. Many
of the preps were previously published in the giant 750 Best Muffin
Recipes (also from Robert Rose, in 2010), so you may not need this book
if you have that huge compendium. These books are for the secondary
market, for the people really need gluten-free or vegan food. Both
books are similarly arranged, beginning with equipment and ingredients
special to gluten-free and vegan. The arrangement is about the same
too: her top muffins (20 vegan, 15 gluten-free), followed by breakfast
muffins, coffeehouse muffins, lunch and supper muffins, and "global"
muffins – her takes on international specialties such as five-spice
Asian pear muffins or sesame ginger muffins. There's minimal
duplication, in that some recipes sound the same but call for different
ingredients. For example, there's a five-spice pear muffin that is
either gluten-free or vegan (but not both). Most of the gluten-free
recipes have casein-free alternatives, so you can use the book as a
"dairy-free" book, but still maintain eggs and honey. Preparations have
their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements
(always a strong point with Robert Rose), but there is no table of
equivalents. Quality/price rating: 90.
 
 
 
24. A CARAFE OF RED (University of California Pr., 2012, 280
pages, ISBN 978-0-520-27032-9, $21.95 US soft covers) is by Gerald
Asher, who has written many books about wine. By profession he was an
international wine merchant. He also served as Gourmet magazine's wine
editor for 30 years. Here, he has selected some more essays published 
in Gourmet but with one dealing with cabernet sauvignon from another
source as well (The Book of California Wine). He did another one last
year (2011), "A Vineyard n My Glass". The essays (mainly from the
1990s) reflect wine regions: he has 8 for France, 8 for California
(plus one on Missouri), 6 for other European countries, and some
general ones on food and wine. And, believe it or not, there is
actually an index, which rarely happens with anthologies or reprints.
His book is definitely terroir-driven as he relates talks with
winemakers, wines and the meals he has had, along with growing
conditions. And each article is just about perfectly written with his
eye for detail. In France, he visits Bordeaux, Cote Rotie, Champagne,
Beauolais. There is also Malmsey, Barbaresco, and Sherry, and for
California, Santa Cruz and Zinfandel, amongst others. After each essay,
he pens a swift update since the original writing. Well-worth a read or
as a gift. Keep them coming, Mr. Asher…Quality/price rating: 90.
 
 
 

25. PLATTER'S SOUTH AFRICAN WINES 2012; the guide to cellars,
vineyards, winemakers, restaurants and accommodation (John Platter SA
Wine Guide Ltd; distr. by Wines of South Africa Canadian Office,
keenan@propellerpr.com, 618 pages, ISBN 978-0-987-0046-0-4, $30CAD
(includes shipping) hard cover) is the recognized authority on South
African wines. It has been published for 32 years. For this latest
edition, there are now 15 tasters – all identified, and with initials
after tasting notes. Some of the tasters have changed over the years.
More than 6000 wines are here evaluated (about 800 are new to this
edition), along with new wineries. One-quarter of all top ranking 5
star wines are now being made by mom-and-pop operations, a remarkable
achievement. Even the large co-ops are making more credible, limited
collections of superior wine. The contents of the guide are
straightforward: there are chapters on the wine industry, vintages and
styles, touring (accommodation and food, all in some 75 pages) followed
by some 500 pages of dictionary-arranged wineries, detailing most
aspects. To quote, "Wines are entered under the name of the private
producer, estate, co-operative winery or brand name of a merchant, and
listed alphabetically. Entries feature some or all of: producer's name,
address, phone/fax number, email address, website; wine name, colour
and style, grape varieties, vintage, area of origin; selected recent
awards and star ratings. Where applicable, other attractions to be
enjoyed on the property, such as meals and accommodation, are
highlighted." The book also has an indication of organic wines
available for sale and sketch maps to show the location of all the
wineries. The index at the front is by grape, so you can see at a
glance what is the top performing pinotage, or cabernet sauvignon, or
sparkler. Quality/price rating: 95.
 
 
 

26. 150 BEST INDIAN, THAI, VIETNAMESE & MORE SLOW COOKER RECIPES
(Robert Rose, 2012, 192 pages, ISBN 978-0-788-0404-8, $27.95 CAN
paperback) is by Sunil Vijayakar, a UK food author and stylist. It was
originally published in 2010 by Hamlyn as "Slow Cooker Curries". This
is it North American debut. Each recipe has a heat rating, and there is
advice on how to lower or increase the spicy heat component. These are
mostly curries, with an assortment of 40 pilafs, accompaniments and
chutneys. And of course, you don't actually need a slow cooker to do
the dish: they can all be modified for oven use. There is a good range
here, with preps from three different regions, foods from meats to
seafood to veggies, and all with differing heat levels. Try goat xacuti
curry, Cambodian pork and lemongrass curry, or sindhi beef curry.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
And, of course, the large type is extremely useful in the kitchen.
Quality/price rating: 89.
 
 
 
27. THE EDIBLE BALCONY; growing fresh produce in small spaces (Rodale,
2011, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-60961-410-2, $21.99 US paperback) is by
Alex Mitchell. It was also published in the UK by Kyle Books. She has
been writing about small space gardens for many British publications.
The attraction here, of course, is the remote possibility for growing
your own fresh produce, no mater how limited your space. But there must
be some kind of sunlight too, whether it is cast on a fire escape or
window box or rooftop or small deck. It's a good how-to book, with
plenty of information and tips on such thing as choice of pot, compost
and mixes, seeds and seedlings. There are side bars on the best crops
for grow bags, for a window box, and for hanging baskets. There's a
listing of the ten best "easy" crops, and other "top ten" listings for
"not-in-the-store" veggies, crops that keep coming by renewal, and
fruit trees. There are also a handful of recipes, and a lot of special
projects that should keep people busy. Quality/price rating: 88.
 

28. THE MAPLE SYRUP BOOK (Boston Mills Pr, 2006; distr. Firefly, 2012,
96 pages, ISBN 978-1-77085-033-0, $19.95 CAN paper covers) is by Janet
Eagleson, a naturalist. It was originally published in 2006, and is now
reissued. It is an A – Z primer on the hows and whys (including sugar
shacks) of maple syrup, along with eight recipes, including one for
maple syrup chicken wings (yummy). Rosemary Hasner contributes a lot of
colour photos on nearly every page. There's an illustrated flavour
wheel for maple syrup, but it should have been on a full page by
itself: it's a little hard to read at one one-third of a page.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 87.
 

29. THE BEST OF THE BEST AND MORE; recipes from The Best of Bridge
Cookbooks (Robert Rose, 2012, 304 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0299-0, $29.95
CAN spiral bound)
 
And
 
30. THE REST OF THE BEST AND MORE; recipes from The Best of Bridge
Cookbooks (Robert Rose, 2012, 304 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0400-0, $29.95
CAN spiral bound)
 
are new reprints from 1998 and 2004 respectively. The original
collations, of course, are collections of preps from the long series of
The Best of Bridge cookbooks. The story began in 1975 when the bridge
club of eight decided to produce their own cookbooks. "The Ladies of
the Best of Bridge" eventually sold 3.2 million copies of their books
over a 30 year period. These two books should be viewed together. The
BEST contains about 70 new recipes, while the REST has about 100 new
preps. All new recipes are highlighted in the index. The original
format of hand lettering has been retained. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but
there is no table of equivalents. It is all pretty standard reference
material, but all of it is useful. There was some light updating when
the books were first published (I don't have the resources to cross-
check 1998 edition against the 2012), and certainly the new recipes
will have been updated through 2012 – all to reflect current trends in
fresh eating. Quality/price rating: 88.
 

31. THE BEST STEWS IN THE WORLD; 300 satisfying one-dish dinners, from
chilis and gumbos to curries and cassoulet (Harvard Common Press, 2002,
2012; distr. T. Allen, 388 pages, ISBN 978-1-55832-747-4, $19.95 US
paper covers) is by Clifford A. Wright, a cooking teacher and food
writer who has authored some nine cookbooks, including the Beard Award
winner A Mediterranean feast. It was originally published in hardback a
decade ago, and here it is given its paperback reissue. Not much
changes in the world of stews, so his 2002 take is still valid today –
as written. It's international in scope, of course, and arranged by
major ingredient, leading off with beef. There's veal, lamb, pork,
fowl, small game, seafood, veggies, and "mixed meats". There are
materials for slow cookers, tajines, couscous, chilis, ropa vieja, and
more. There's a duck wing stew from the Languedoc, a Turkish chicken
and okra stew, fish dumplings from Morocco, a Lebanese fish stew,
Sardinian vegetable stew, and an Andalusian chickpea and veal tripe
stew. His last stew ("no-name stew") has all the leftovers after he
finished testing the recipes. Worth a try, but hard to find all the
exact ingredients. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 89.
 

32. WEIGHT WATCHERS NEW COMPLETE COOKBOOK, 4th ed. (J Wiley, 2011,2012,
436 pages, ISBN 978-1-118-11683-8, $21.99 US spiral bound edition) is
an update of the 2007 edition, which was also released in a plastic
comb binding. The book was originally published in hardback in 1993.
The new, fourth edition, has many changes, such as a separate chapter
on slow cooker meals and new sidebar advice. The new PointsPlus™
program is explained. Recipes have been labeled for skill level, and
there are more preps for grains and veggies. Plus, of course, the new
design: loose leaf allow for better recipe display in the kitchen. Once
again, the emphasis is on healthy eating for family meals and for
entertainment meals. The book has always been 500 recipes in length,
but they are always changing. There are some helpful technique photos,
as well as the usual technique tricks and tips. Quality/price rating:
87.
 

33. CANADIAN LIVING. The One Dish Collection (Transcontinental Books,
2012; distr. Random House Canada, 288 pages, ISBN 978-0-9813938-9-6,
$26.95 CAD paper covers) is by the test kitchen at Canadian Living
magazine. It's in the style of the other books from the kitchen, such
as The Vegetarian Collection, The Slow Cooker Collection, The
International Collection, and The Barbecue Collection. The arrangement
begins with soups, stews and salads, moving on to casseroles, baked
items, simmer food, stir-fries, pasta and risotto. As always, it is a
basic book with plenty of tips and advice, There's a black bean and
chorizo soup, beer-simmered steaks, vegetable barley soup, mushroom-
bacon-swiss chard with gemelli pasta, tex-mex casserole with Monterey
jack cheese – about 250 of them. There's nutritional data for each
recipe, as well as some tips and advice. There's one prep per page, and
so the typeface could have been a bit larger since there's plenty of
space. Preparations have their ingredients listed mainly in avoirdupois
measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 87.
 

34. HOW TO COOK EVERYTHING: the basics, all you need to cook great food
(John Wiley & Sons, 2012, 486 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-52806-8, $35US hard
covers) is by Mark Bittman. Every book he creates has many things to
say about food, and this one is no different. It was originally
published in 2003, with 100 basic recipes plus 30 others. Now Bittman
has moved on to "hands-on" cooking. This edition of the book has 185
"building-block recipes and 1,000 instructive photographs". This is
great for beginners, but I'm sure that Bittman fans already have his
recipes and do not need the pix. Nevertheless, with the 2003 book out
of print, this is the basic Bittman that new cooks will want. And it is
dirt cheap on Amazon and The Book Depository. There's a chunk of primer
data here, such as stocking the pantry and kitchen, specialized
ingredients and equipment, and about 30 different skills for preparing
foods. Still, the publisher has added a lot of log rolling from Oliver,
Batali, Colicchio, and Chang. Preparations have their ingredients
listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is a table of metric
equivalents. Quality/price rating: 90.
 

35. PROFESSIONAL CAKE DECORATING. 2d ed. (Wiley, 2012, 402 pages, ISBN
978-0-470-38009-3, $65US hard covers) is by Toba Garrett, a well-known
multiple award winner of cake decorations. She's at the Institute of
Culinary Education in NYC, a nd has also written many other cake and
cookie decoration books. It was originally published in 2006 at 368
pages, so this second edition has added some 40 or so more pages. The
first edition said: "Professional Cake Decorating is the first
guidebook, reference, and at-your-fingertips resource to the special
methods and techniques unique to cake decorating." There's a
comprehensive set of lessons designed to teach the skills needed in
cake decorating, including basic, intermediate, and advanced piping
skills; hand modeling; and gumpaste flowers. She also deals with the
overall look and design of cakes, and it is a useful training handbook
and resource for bakers and decorators. The second edition has been
revamped, with additional photography and additional techniques and
patterns (such as a marzipan bridal coupe, variations on a closed
tulip, more variations on writing, more marzipan such as jalapeno
peppers, heirloom tomatoes, and mangoes). Also new are floating collars
for suspending cakes and a pillow cake. Using hundreds of step-by-step
and finished cake color photographs and many illustrations, this highly
visual book covers a wealth of techniques for cake borders, piped
flowers, cake writing and piping, royal icing designs, marzipan fruits
and figurines, rolled icing, floral patterns, petit fours, gumpaste
floral art and design, etc. Thorough coverage also includes such
foundation skills as making shells, rosettes, reverse shells, zigzags,
fleur-de-lis, rope, garlands, scrolls, rosebuds, and other
confectionary designs (plus templates). There are also 35 recipes.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 90.
----------------------------------------------------
Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
 

Friday, April 20, 2012

FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH!: Salad for Dinner

SALAD FOR DINNER; complete meals for all seasons (Rizzoli, 2012;
distr. Random House Canada, 208 pages, ISBN 978-0-8478-3825-7, $35US
hard covers) is by Jeanne Kelley, a food writer (principally Bon
Appetit) and cookbook author with an urban homestead (bees, chickens,
veggies). Here she succeeds in making the salad the centerpiece of
every main meal. Here's a couple of dozen pages devoted to a salad
primer, including a pantry for the vinaigrettes and dressings. She's
got a salad code: most of 11 items that you may have in the fridge or
pantry that can be added to create a salad – stuff like an egg,
avocado, meat, cheese, fruit, nuts, dried fruit, croutons, onion plus
of course the dressing/vinaigrette and salad greens. You don't need
them all but you can incorporate what you have beyond the greens and
the dressing. The preps have their own contents listings, and run from
vegetarian salads through fish, seafood, poultry, and meat. It is a
pretty book, specializing in contrasts of colour, flavour and texture.
Personally, we eat few salads in winter – their coolness is not
appealing except for winter salads of radicchio/cabbage/endive/fennel
(not included in this book). But spring/summer/fall is a different
story at our home, with salads galore as main courses. Preparations
have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is
a table of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: salad lovers looking for new turn.
Some interesting or unusual recipes: roasted acorn squash and brussels
sprout salad; brown rice grape leaf salad; fennel with roasted beet and
smoked whitefish; seafood-stuffed avocado salad; grilled kale with lamb
and garlic.
The downside to this book: no chopped winter salads using non-greens,
the kind you find in a cooler climate outside of California.
The upside to this book: good salad ideas incorporating protein and
fats.
Quality/Price Rating: 90.

Thursday, April 19, 2012

DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH!

1. THE FINEST WINES OF BURGUNDY; a guide to the best producers of the
Cote d'Or and their wines (University of California Pr., 2012,
320 pages, ISBN 978-0-520-27201-9, $34.95 US paper covers) is by Bill
Nanson, a chemist with no connection to the wine trade, but he
regularly visits (for more than 15 years) the region and works the
harvest. He also publishes the Burgundy-Report (http://www.burgundy-
report.com/) a website which, since late 2002, has a slowly expanding
library of domaine and village profiles, comments on the market and
vintage challenges plus, of-course, discussion of the wines. His site
allows you to learn about the region and its wines, peruse notes from
many bottles or even discuss with other people. So the current book is
like a hard copy of the website. The book actually is one of an
illustrated series created by The World of Fine Wine magazine; it is
Number 6. These are guides to the classic regions and their producers,
vineyards and vintages. As Hugh Johnson, one of the editorial team,
would say "These are the wines most worth talking about". Thus far, the
company Fine Wine Editions has looked at Champagne, Tuscany,
California, Rioja, and Bordeaux. This book is co-published with Quarto
Group in the UK. The format for all the books in the series is pretty
straight-forward at this point, with Hugh Johnson giving many of the
forewords their lustre. There's material in about 50 pages on history,
culture and geography, along with winemaking, grapes, and viticulture.
Next there is the biggest section: producers and their wines, sub-
arranged by region. The 250 pages here cover the Cote de Nuits and Cote
de Beaune, leaving aside the Macon, the Beaujolais, and Chablis. Then
there is a final 25 pages on wine appreciation, vintages, top-ten
tables for the finest 100, glossary, and bibliography. The photography
is mainly centred on the producers, so there are lots of portraits and
pictures of walls and gates. Overall, it's an excellent guide to the
region, and sure to please many Burgundy lovers, especially since it
comes with a red ribbon bookmark.
Audience and level of use:  the serious wine lover who also loves to
read, reference libraries and wine schools.
Some interesting or unusual facts: best-ever Domaines in Burgundy
include Leroy, Ramonet, Romanee-Conti, Rousseau, and Bruno Clair.
Quality/Price Rating: 90.
 

Wednesday, April 18, 2012

March 30/12: BC Wine Tasting wtih Wine Writers' Circle of Canada

 The Date and Time:   Friday, March 30, 2012  10:30PM to 1:30PM
The Event: Wine Writers' Circle of Canada monthly tasting. The theme
this month was BC wines.
The Venue: LCBO Summerhill location
The Target Audience: WWCC members
The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available in BC or through
Terroir Wine + Spirits, the agency bringing these BC wines to Ontario.
Minimum order: one case.
The Quote/Background: The company reps about 35 wineries in all, quite
a substantial number.
The Wines: There were 15 wineries here, for a total of some 36 wines
presented.
 
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Meyer Family McLean Creek Road Vineyard Chardonnay 2010, $44.95
-Meyer Family Sonja Gaudet Tribute Series Chardonnay 2010, $44.95
-Meyer Family McLean Creek Road Vineyard Pinot Noir 2010, $59.95
-Moon Curser Winery Dead of Night 2009 (tannat, syrah), $44.95
-Blackwood Lane Viana Roja 2008 (Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec),
$47.95
-Cassini Cellars Syrah Collector's Series 2009, $44.95
-Moon Curser Border Vines 2009 (Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Carmenère,
Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot), $44.95
-Cassini Maximus 2009 (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec), $47.95
-Mt. Boucherie Summit Reserve Merlot 2008, $29.95
-
 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-Meyer Family Reimer Vineyard Pinot Noir 2010, $59.95
-Meyer Family Central Okanagan Vineyard Pinot Noir 2008, $59.95
-Desert Hills Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, $39.95
-St. Hubertus Pinot Noir 2010, $18.95
-ACES Wine even Deuce 2009, $27.95
-Mt. Boucherie Estate Semillon 2008, $17.95
-Mt. Boucherie Pinot Gris 201, $21.95
-LuLu Island Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, $19.95
-Church & State Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, $43.95
-Eau Vivre Chardonnay 2008, $24.95
-Eau Vivre Pinot Noir 2008, $24.95
-Fort Berens Chardonnay 2010, $32.95
-Fort Berens Meritage 2009, $49.95
-Summerhill Pyramid Cipes Rose Sparkling [organic pinot noir] NV,
$44.95
 
*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-ACES Wine Pocket Kings 2007, $39.95
-ACES Wine Straight Flush Blush 2010 [rose], $16.95
-Moon Curser Winery Merlot 2009, $44.95
-Moon Curser Winery Syrah 2009, $44.95
-LuLu Island Winery Meritage 2010, $24.95
-Silkscarf Ensemble Rouge 2008, $46.95
-Silkscarf Ensemble Blanc 2011, $32.95
-Summerhill Pyramid Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, $31.95
-Meyer Family Chardonnay 2010, $44.95
-Meyer Family Gewurztraminer 2010, $44.95
The Contact Person: Jamie Crain  jamie@terroirwineandspirits.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 90
 
 

Monday, April 16, 2012

March27/12: Tasting of Churton Wines (New Zealand) and Hidden Bench Winery (Ontario)

The Date and Time: Tuesday, March 27, 2012  3:30PM to 5PM

The Event: Tasting of Churton Wines (New Zealand) and Hidden Bench Winery (Ontario)

The Venue: Fine Wine Reserve

The Target Audience: wine media, sommeliers, FWR clients

The Availability/Catalogue: everything is available, either by consignment through Le Sommelier or at Vintages or the Ontario winery.

The Quote/Background: this was a tasting of sustainable (Hidden Bench) and biodynamic (Churton) wines, available through Le Sommelier in Ontario.

The Wines: Hidden bench also brought along some wines exclusive to licensees: Bistro Rose ($13.51), Bistro Riesling (~$15), Bistro Chardonnay (~$18), and Bistro Pinot Noir (~$21), mostly made from young vines, in limited lots, and available to restaurants and bars. I would rate the Rose and the Riesling, both of which I sampled, at GOOD (3 stars, 85 – 87). Globe and Earth have bought their own "Globe" labeling from Hidden Bench for similar wines from chardonnay and pinot noir grapes.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Churton Wines 2009 Sauvignon Blanc, $22.95

-Churton Wines 2009 Pinot Noir, $36.95 – my FAVE red

-Churton Wines 2008 The Abyss Pinot Noir, $64.95

-Hidden Bench Winery 2008 Felseck Chardonnay, $38.00 – my FAVE white

-Hidden Bench Winery 2009 Estate Chardonnay, $32.00

-Hidden Bench Winery 2009 Felseck Riesling, $28.00

-Hidden Bench Winery 2008 Terroir Cache, $35.00

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (8890 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Churton Wines 2008 Pinot Noir, $30.50

-Churton Wines 2010 Sauvignon Blanc, $22.95

-Hidden Bench Winery 2009 Estate Riesling, $24.00

-Hidden Bench Winery 2009 Roman's Block Riesling, $30.00

-Hidden Bench Winery 2009 Estate Pinot Noir, $38.00

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (8587 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Churton Wines 2011 Viognier, $36.95

Hidden Bench Winery 2009 Nuit Blanche, $40.00

 

The Food: breads, cheeses, pate and salumi.

The Downside: it got crowded really fast.

The Upside: the FWR tables, which weigh a tonne each, were pushed back to the wall to create more room. There was also a good chance to talk with winery owners Mandy Weaver (Churton) and Harald Thiel.

The Contact Person: bernard@lesommelier.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 89.

Wednesday, April 11, 2012

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR APRIL 14 2012

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR APRIL 14 2012
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at
http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news
items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at
www.deantudor.com since 1994. My tastings are based on MVC (Modal
Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices
are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does
NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product
consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.
 
TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Inniskillin Winemaker's Series Two Vineyards Riesling 2010 VQA
Niagara: excellent Alsatian-styled typicity at a modest 11.5% ABV.
+105387, $17.95, QPR: 89.
2. Crios Torrontes 2011 Argentina: brightly aromatic like poplar
blended wines from all over, value lies in its price. +1834, $12.95,
QPR: 89.
3. Michel Picard Chardonnay Bourgogne 2009: classy packaging at this
price level, typicity is stressed with good MVC. +264440, $17.95, QPR:
89.
4. Michel del Hommeau Cuvee Harmonie Muscadet de Sevre et Maine 2010:
sip or food, crowd pleaser, not as acidic as other muscadets. 12% ABV.
Gold medalist. +164624, 12.95, QPR: 89.
5. Saget La Perriere Marie de Beauregard Vouvray 2009: off-dry, ripe
mouthfeel, pear and other orchard fruit. +276691, $17.95, QPR: 90.
 
TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Mastronardi Merlot/Cabernet 2008 VQA Lake Erie North Shore:
delicious intensity, plummy with depth. Berries, well-made, ready now.
+273730, $19.95, QP: 89.
2. Henry's Drive Pillar Box Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Padthaway:
juicy, long length, mint and some herbs. 199745, $19.95, QPR: 89.
3. Chateau Beausejour 2009 Fronsac: excellent all-round MVC Bordeaux,
tasted some four hours after opening. Do the same. +26467, $14.95, QPR:
89.
4. La Corte Old Vines Primitivo di Manduria 2010 Puglia: even the
primitivo wine makers are getting into the "old vines" labeling, as do
many of the zinfandel winemakers in California. No indication of how
old these vines are, so proceed at your own risk (the phrase is not
regulated anywhere). Good value for mocha-inflected black berry fruit
materials at 14% ABV. +269019, $15.95, QPR: 89.
5. Torre Quarto Bottaccia Uva di Troia 2008 IGT Puglia: delicious
Italianate wine, nicely aged. 13.5$ ABV. +161737, $15.95, QPR: 89.
6. L'Antico di Burchino Vigna Casanova Chianti 2010: Demeter approved
biodynamic wine, ridiculously underpriced. 12.5% ABV. +160457, $13.95,
QPR: 90.
7. Luigi Righetti Campolieti Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore
2009: "LCBO Ripassso of the Month" for April. +695890, $15.95, QPR: 89.
8. Astrolabium Reserva Vinho Tinto 2008 Dao: good deep blend, 13% ABV,
some mushrooms and underbrush. +276121, 15.95, PR: 89.
9. Coto de Imaz Reserva 2005 Rioja: coconut tones, definitely US oak,
vanilla and some dried fruit. 13.% ABV. Nicely aged. +23762, $19.95,
QPR: 90.
10.
 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.
 
1. Featherstone Canadian Oak Chardonnay 2010 VQA Niagara, +149302,
$21.95 retail.
2. Dog Point Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2011 Marlborough, +677450, $20.95
3. Hoopenburg Integrer Chardonnay 2007 WO Stellenbosch, +174672, $21.95
4. Domaine Chauveau La Charmette Pouilly Fume 2010, +274357, $21.95
5. Chimney Rock Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Stags Leap District Napa,
+731810, $57.95.
6. Cyrus Cabernet Bled 2007 Alexander Valley Sonoma County, +269233,
59.95.
7. Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Alexander Valley Sonoma
County, +50427, $27.95.
8. Luis Segundo Correas Vale La Acequias Rosedal Malbec 2006 Mendoza,
+261750, $29.95.
9. Brokenwood Shiraz 2009 McLaren Vale/Beechworth, +265975, $29.95.
10. Angelo Negro Cascinotta Barbaresco 2007, +268953, $32.95.
11. Ruffino Lodola Nuova Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2008, +332411,
$23.95.
12. Bod. Franco-Espanolas Rioja Bordon Gran Reserva 2004, +114454,
$22.95.

Saturday, April 7, 2012

March 29/12: RAW: Toronto tartares in action....

7. The Date and Time:   Thursday, March 29, 2012  6PM to 8:30PM
The Event: RAW: The Great Toronto Tartare-Off, in support of Grapes for
Humanity
The Venue: Imperial Room, Fairmont Royal York
The Target Audience: food lovers
The Availability/Catalogue: wines are available in a variety of
distribution channels, but mostly from agents or wineries.
The Quote/Background: This was a fundraiser for building a high school
in Basico, Guatemala.
 
The Wines: Wines came from some wine agents (Winery Direct, Profile
Wine Group) and Ontario wineries such as Rosewood, Stratus, Staff,
Tawse, Malivoire, Hidden Bench. I did not taste every wine. But
sommeliers Zoltan Szabo and Jamie Drummond tasted all the donated wines
with the tartares: their best match was Rosewood Estate Pinot Noir 2010
with La Palette Chef Brook Kavanagh's venison tartare.
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Signorello Napa Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
-Rosewood Semillon 2010 Niagara
 
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-Crios Torrontes 2011 Argentina
-Santinori 2010 Greece
-Black Stallion Napa Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
-Rosewood Pinot Noir 2010 Niagara
 
*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Robert Block Riesling 2011
-Tollgate 2008 Niagara (red and white versions)
-Malivoire Gamay Alive 2010
-Tawse Growers Blend Cabernet Franc 2009
-Aveleda Vinho Verde
 
The Food: it was all raw, except for the platforms and the Humber
College options. A panel of judges, consisting of John Higgins, Amy
Rosen, Josh Josephson, Corey Mintz and Geddy Lee, crowned one chef the
King of Tartare. Those chefs included Jamie Kennedy (Gilead; beef),
Didier Leroy (Didier; beef), Lorenzo Loseto (George; cobia), Tim Palmer
(Fairmont Royal York; venison and bannock), Mark Cutrara (Cowbell;
venison), Brook Kavanagh (La Palette; venison), Albert Ponzo (Le
Sélect; bison), Patrick McMurray (Starfish and Ceili Cottage; beef with
oyster from one restaurant, ostrich and quail egg from the other) and
Luke Wood (Thornton's Wine and Tapas Room; musk-ox and beef) who flew
in from Yellowknife for the function. Each tartare was paired with a
wine. After tasting everything blind, the judges announced the winners
in two categories: professional and amateur. Of the four amateur chefs
present, Paul Pender of Tawse Winery got top spot for his beef tartare
flavoured with capers, anchovies and leeks, with a horseradish finish.
Lorenzo Loseto got the professional crown for the cobia tartare. The
oily whitefish was served with roasted fennel, shallots and black
trumpet mushrooms, and topped with a stack of tiny potato chips that
had been fried on the skewer. For those who preferred a "cooked"
alternative, there were Asian hors d'oeuvres prepared by students of
Humber College, french fries, and a sweet table.
 
The Downside: there was no veggie tartare, sadly a missed opportunity
for sauvignon blanc wine lovers.
The Upside: great attendance at this fundraiser, over 170.
The Contact Person: tony.aspler@rogers.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 93
 

Thursday, April 5, 2012

March 29/12: Biodynamic wine tasting,he Living Vine

 The Date and Time: Thursday, March 29, 2012  4PM to 7PM
The Event: tasting a selection of biodynamic wines available from The
Living Vine [www.thelivingvine.ca]
The Venue: Fine Wine Reserve
The Target Audience: media, private clients
The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available by consignment, in
six and twelve bottle cartons.
The Quote/Background: Wines could also be ordered through
www.bwwines.com
 
The Wines: To reiterate, all wines are biodynamic.
 
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Hedymann-Lowenstein Ven Blaum Schiefer Riesling Reserve 2010, $49.95
-Millton Vineyard Opou Chardonnay 2010, $24.95 – my FAVE white of the
tasting
-Ceago Vinegarden Del Lago Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Clew Lake North
California, $24.95 - my FAVE red of the tasting
-Pyramid Valley Vineyards Lion's Tooth Chardonnay 2009 New Zealand, $69
 
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-Chateau Tie Pe Tire Pe 2009 Bordeaux, $22.95 [40% Malbec]
-Cowhorn Vineyards Syrah Applegate Valley Oregon 2007, $34.95
-Az. Ag. Gravner Ribolla Gialla Amphora 2005, $99.95
-Azienda Agricola Pian dell'Orino Brunello di Montalcino, $94.95
-Dr. Burklin-Wolf 2010 Burklin Estate Riesling Pfalz, $19.95.
-Dom. Ostertag Gewurztraminer SGN 2007, $65 half-bottle.
 
*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Littorai Wines Charles Heintz Sonoma Chardonnay 2009, $69.95
 
The Food: cheese, pate, breads.
The Contact Person: mark@thelivingvine.ca
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 89
 
 

Tuesday, April 3, 2012

March 22/12: Vinho Verde Tasting at George/Verity

The Date and Time: Thursday, March 22, 2012  2:30PM to 6PM

The Event: a seminar and tasting of Vinho Verde wines

The Venue: George (for the seminar) and Verity Club (for the walkaround tasting).

The Target Audience: wine media and sommeliers.

The Availability/Catalogue: most of the wines were not generally available. Some producers had no agents, some agents had no product. Prices were speculative, for the most part. It did not help that we had no catalogue of producer labels, and that we had to write down this kind of information.

The Quote/Background: Evan Savioloidis, with his loud clear voice, gave a good talk on what Vinho verde was all about, and the newer styles that are coming onstream. We had a brief tasting of four styles: one classic at 11.5%ABV, one made from the Loureiro grape (to drink with food), one made from the Alvarinho grape (very aromatic, a sipper, 12.5%ABV), and one made from the Espadiero grape (a rose, 12%ABV). You can forget about low alcohol versions; they are all going to be 12 or more percentage ABV. The seminar was mobbed with 60 attendees and SRO.

The Wines: I did not try every wine.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Quinta de Carapecos Escolha 2010, $15

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (8890 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Soalheiro Alvarinho 2011

-Estreia Loureiro Grande Escolha 2011

-Estreia Alvarinho 2011

-Solar de Loureido 2011

-Terras de Gerras 2011

-Menancos Alvarinho/Trajadura 2011

-Terras de Moncao Alvarinho 2011

-Solar de Serrade Alvarinho 2011

-Quinta de Gomariz Loureiro 2011

-Quinta de Gomariz Alvarinho 2010

-Quinta de Gomariz Rose Espadeiro 2010 and 2011

-Quinta de Carapecos Alvarinho 2011, $13

-Quinta de Carapecos Alvarinho/Trajadura 2011, $13

-Quinta do Arcas Conde Villar Alvarinho 2011

-Quinta da Lixa Terras do Minho 2011

-Quinta da Lixa Alvarinho/Trajadura 2011

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (8587 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Quintas do Homem Vale do Homen Verde Branco 2011

-Vianna Loureiro 2011

-Quinta de Gomariz Grande Escolha 2010

-Quinta de Carapecos Espadeiro Rose 2010, $13

-Quinta de Carapecos Eiva dos Mouros NV

-Quinta do Arcas Conde Villar Loureiro 2011

-Quinta do Arcas Conde Villar Vinho Verde 2011

-Quinta do Arcas Conde Villar Rose 2011

-Arca Nora 2011

-Quinta da Lixa Vinho Verde 2011

-Quinta da Lixa Loureiro NV

-Aveleda Vinho Verde Fonte, $8.95

-Quinta da Aveleda Vinho Verde, $9.95

 

The Food: from George, we had appetizers such as prosciutto, cod cakes, cured salmon, chicken skewers, cheeses and breads.

The Downside: there was no catalogue of wines being poured.

The Upside: a chance to re-connect with Vinho Verde.

The Contact Person: mvickell@national.ca

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 83

Monday, April 2, 2012

March 19/12 APVSA tasting at Delta Chelsea Inn

The Date and Time: Monday, March 19, 2012.  11AM to 5PM

The Event: the monthly APVSA tasting (Association pour la promotion des

vins et spiritueux en Amerique du Nord).

The Venue: Delta Chelsea Inn

The Target Audience: wine agents.

The Availability/Catalogue: no wines are currently available in

Ontario. The group is here to get some agents to agree to rep the principal. Some of the wines are available in Quebec and Alberta.

Most of the wines were French, and there is sales staff available to comment on the prices and production. This road show also visits such places as New York, Los Angeles, Seattle, Las Vegas, Calgary, Vancouver, Miami, Washington DC, and Montreal. Occasionally, the show will have wines from Italy, Uruguay, Spain and Australia. Sometimes spirits and VDN are also available.

The Wines: The problem I had with the wines, and one that must be acknowledged, is that (by and large) they were about the same as wines that we already have here in Ontario. There really did not seem to be any price advantages, either. But these 40 or so wines could be made available through Vintages or Consignment. In the past, quite a few have been picked up for sale in Ontario; these were mostly the good value or unique wines. Here were my faves from today, regardless of FOB cost which must be requested due to competitive pricing. I did not try every wine.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Cave Vieil Armand Gewurztraminer 2010

-La Maurine Rouge Saint-Chinian Secrets de Paul 2009

-Dom. De Mayol Luberon 2008

-Vina Vilano Legon Ribera del Duero Premium 2005

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price

Rating terms):

-Dom. Perraud Chardonnay Macon Villages 2009

-Dom. Perraud L'Oeuvre Saint-Veran 2010

-Dom. Des Hauts Perray Coulee du Hauts Perrays 2011

-Dom. Des Hauts Perray Cabernet d'Anjou 2011 [rose]

-Ch. Du Vallies 2007 Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux

-Ch. Coutelor La Romarine 2009 Sainte-Foy Bordeaux

-Cave Vieil Armand Pinot Gris 2009

-La Maurine Rouge Saint-Chinian Galopins 2009

-Ch. Prat de Cest Corbieres 2009

-Dom. De Mayol Luberon 2009

-Dom. M. Colbois Chablis du Chene 2010

-Vina Vilano Legon Ribera del Duero Roble 2010

-Vina Vilano Legon Ribera del Duero Reserva 2005

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Dom. Grand Jean Bordeaux Rose 2011

-Dom. Grand Jean Bordeaux Rouge 2010

-Dom. Perraud Bourgogne Rouge 2008

-Cave Vieil Armand Pinot Noir 2008

-Les Tros Puechs Coteaux du Languedoc 2011

-Les Tros Puechs Pays d'Oc 2011

-Ch. Prat de Cest Corbieres 2010

-Dom. M. Colbois Bourgogne Algote 2009

-Dom. M. Colbois Bourgogne Chitry Chardonnay 2009

-Vina Vilano Legon Ribera del Duero Tinto 2011

 

The Food: I arrived late after the Palacios tasting, so I missed most of the lunch, but I did grab a slice of pizza.

The Contact Person: Pascal p.fernand@apvsa.ca

The Marketing Effectiveness/Execution of the Event(numerical grade):

84.