Awesome! Thank you! I'll let Gibbs Smith know.
Cheers,
Danielle Johnson
Senior Publicist
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Raincoast Books ~ 2440 Viking Way, Richmond, BC V6V 1N2
danielle@raincoast.com ~ ph: 604.448.7163
Follow us:
BLOG: http://blogs.raincoast.com
TWITTER: www.twitter.com/raincoastbooks
PINTEREST: http://pinterest.com/raincoastbooks/
>1. MERINGUE (Gibbs Smith, 2012; distr. Raincoast, 224 pages, ISBN 978-
>1-4236-2581-0, $24.99 US hard covers) is by Linda K. Jackson (a food
>and beverage marketing executive) and Jennifer Evans Gardner (cookbook
>author and lifestyle writer). Together they came up with a single
>ingredient cookbook for the masses: you cannot have too much meringue
>and sugar for dessert! There's an extensive section on the history and
>development of meringues, a primer on how to do it (ingredients, tools
>techniques), followed by a selection of preps dealing with cookies,
>pavlovas, bars, tarts, pies, cakes, tortes, vacherins, dacquoises,
>meringue frostings, and more. There are three stages of meringue
>(foamy, soft peaks, stiff peaks) and three types (French, Italian, and
>Swiss). Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois
>measurements, but there is a table of metric equivalents.
>Audience and level of use: those looking for a meringue fix – what to
>do with all those egg whites after you've made crème brulee and crème
>caramel!
>Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: death by milk chocolate;
>snowballs; s'moringues; meringue pizza; ile flottante with salted
>caramel and toasted hazelnuts; vanilla swiss meringue buttercream;
>raspberry white chocolate vacherin; southern black bottom pie; golden
>apricot bars.
>The downside to this book: no mention of nun's farts (pet de nonne, pet
>des soeur), but there is a chapter on "little clouds".
>The upside to this book: great single ingredient cookbook.
>Quality/Price Rating: 90.
>
>Chimo! [ http://www.deantudor.com ]www.deantudor.com
>
Monday, September 24, 2012
Sunday, September 23, 2012
FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH! Meringue
1. MERINGUE (Gibbs Smith, 2012; distr. Raincoast, 224 pages, ISBN 978-
1-4236-2581-0, $24.99 US hard covers) is by Linda K. Jackson (a food
and beverage marketing executive) and Jennifer Evans Gardner (cookbook
author and lifestyle writer). Together they came up with a single
ingredient cookbook for the masses: you cannot have too much meringue
and sugar for dessert! There's an extensive section on the history and
development of meringues, a primer on how to do it (ingredients, tools
techniques), followed by a selection of preps dealing with cookies,
pavlovas, bars, tarts, pies, cakes, tortes, vacherins, dacquoises,
meringue frostings, and more. There are three stages of meringue
(foamy, soft peaks, stiff peaks) and three types (French, Italian, and
Swiss). Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois
measurements, but there is a table of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: those looking for a meringue fix – what to
do with all those egg whites after you've made crème brulee and crème
caramel!
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: death by milk chocolate;
snowballs; s'moringues; meringue pizza; ile flottante with salted
caramel and toasted hazelnuts; vanilla swiss meringue buttercream;
raspberry white chocolate vacherin; southern black bottom pie; golden
apricot bars.
The downside to this book: no mention of nun's farts (pet de nonne, pet
des soeur), but there is a chapter on "little clouds".
The upside to this book: great single ingredient cookbook.
Quality/Price Rating: 90.
1-4236-2581-0, $24.99 US hard covers) is by Linda K. Jackson (a food
and beverage marketing executive) and Jennifer Evans Gardner (cookbook
author and lifestyle writer). Together they came up with a single
ingredient cookbook for the masses: you cannot have too much meringue
and sugar for dessert! There's an extensive section on the history and
development of meringues, a primer on how to do it (ingredients, tools
techniques), followed by a selection of preps dealing with cookies,
pavlovas, bars, tarts, pies, cakes, tortes, vacherins, dacquoises,
meringue frostings, and more. There are three stages of meringue
(foamy, soft peaks, stiff peaks) and three types (French, Italian, and
Swiss). Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois
measurements, but there is a table of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: those looking for a meringue fix – what to
do with all those egg whites after you've made crème brulee and crème
caramel!
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: death by milk chocolate;
snowballs; s'moringues; meringue pizza; ile flottante with salted
caramel and toasted hazelnuts; vanilla swiss meringue buttercream;
raspberry white chocolate vacherin; southern black bottom pie; golden
apricot bars.
The downside to this book: no mention of nun's farts (pet de nonne, pet
des soeur), but there is a chapter on "little clouds".
The upside to this book: great single ingredient cookbook.
Quality/Price Rating: 90.
Chimo! www.deantudor.com
Friday, September 21, 2012
DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH! NYT Book of Wine
1. THE NEW YORK TIMES BOOK OF WINE (Sterling Epicure, 2012, 692 pages,
ISBN 978-1-4027-8184-1, $24.95 US hard covers) has been edited by
Howard G. Goldberg. The essays come from 29 different contributors --
156 articles from the pages of the New York Times. Authors include Eric
Asimov, Frank J. Prial, Florence Fabricant, Terry Robards, Frank Bruni,
William Grimes, Howard McGee, R.W. Apple Jr., Goldberg himself, and
others. It is a good gift book, covering the previous three decades of
New York Times wine coverage back to 1980 when wine knowledge really
began to blossom in North America. Topics are vast and tiny: food
pairing, corkscrews, major wines, minor wines, restaurant experiences,
newly emerging wine regions, and the like. Goldberg was a NYT editor
from 1970, and wrote about wines until 2004. Asimov took over then, and
continues to do so. Good bedtime reading. Quality/Price rating: 90.
ISBN 978-1-4027-8184-1, $24.95 US hard covers) has been edited by
Howard G. Goldberg. The essays come from 29 different contributors --
156 articles from the pages of the New York Times. Authors include Eric
Asimov, Frank J. Prial, Florence Fabricant, Terry Robards, Frank Bruni,
William Grimes, Howard McGee, R.W. Apple Jr., Goldberg himself, and
others. It is a good gift book, covering the previous three decades of
New York Times wine coverage back to 1980 when wine knowledge really
began to blossom in North America. Topics are vast and tiny: food
pairing, corkscrews, major wines, minor wines, restaurant experiences,
newly emerging wine regions, and the like. Goldberg was a NYT editor
from 1970, and wrote about wines until 2004. Asimov took over then, and
continues to do so. Good bedtime reading. Quality/Price rating: 90.
Chimo! www.deantudor.com
Wednesday, September 19, 2012
THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...
...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback
reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher
a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will
reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will
rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text
while keeping the focus tight. Here are some recent "re-editions" of
scholarly and/or historical cook books...
THE ASIAN GRANDMOTHERS COOKBOOK; home cooking from Asian American
kitchens (Sasquatch Books, 2009, 2012; distr. Random House of Canada,
348 pages, ISBN 978-1-57061-752-2, $25.95 US soft covers) is by
Patricia Tanumihardja, a free-lance food writer. It was originally
published in 2009 as a hardbound book, and here it returns as a
paperback with perfect binding. The Asian grandmother in the US is the
glue that keeps the family together. Here are about 120 preps for old-
school dishes from Chinese, Japanese, Vietnamese, Filipino, Thai,
Indian and Korean sources. Recipes have their variations noted, and the
author contributes her notes and some from a relevant "grandmother".
Typical dishes include chicken adobo, steamed meatballs with tangerine
peel, beef stir fry, black bean steamed fish, watercress and pork rib
soup, pork and shrimp cups, and mochiko fried chicken. There are also a
fair bit of cultural notes here detailing the impact of elder Asian
immigrants in American life. Most of these notes come from the ten
profiles of "grandmas". There's a resources list and a bibliography,
with some chosen websites. Preparations have their ingredients listed
in avoirdupois measurements, but there are conversion tables of metric
equivalents. A good entry level book for the newly inspired lover of
Asiatic food. Quality/price rating: 87.
21. AGUECHEEK'S BEEF, BELCH'S HICCUP, AND OTHER GASTRONOMIC
INTERJECTIONS; literature, culture, and food among the early moderns
(University of Chicago Press, 2006, 2012, 375 pages, ISBN 978-0-26-
02127-0, $22.50 US soft covers) is by Robert Appelbaum, professor of
English literature at Uppsala University in Sweden. It was originally
published in 2006 (winning the Roland H. Bainton Prize in 2007), and
here receives a trade paperback reprint. It's an interesting idea: the
telling of how post-Renaissance Europeans put food into words and words
into food. Appelbaum looks at cookbooks, great literature, comic
novels, and colonial expansion, which brought in new foods to
wonderment and delight. The illustrations are well-chosen. There are
about a dozen preparations, for such tasty items as calves head,
chicken hunter style, hemp seed porridge, and capon broth for the ill.
This is a major contribution to European food cultural history. There
are extensive end notes and a long select bibliography. Quality/price
rating: 90.
INTERJECTIONS; literature, culture, and food among the early moderns
(University of Chicago Press, 2006, 2012, 375 pages, ISBN 978-0-26-
02127-0, $22.50 US soft covers) is by Robert Appelbaum, professor of
English literature at Uppsala University in Sweden. It was originally
published in 2006 (winning the Roland H. Bainton Prize in 2007), and
here receives a trade paperback reprint. It's an interesting idea: the
telling of how post-Renaissance Europeans put food into words and words
into food. Appelbaum looks at cookbooks, great literature, comic
novels, and colonial expansion, which brought in new foods to
wonderment and delight. The illustrations are well-chosen. There are
about a dozen preparations, for such tasty items as calves head,
chicken hunter style, hemp seed porridge, and capon broth for the ill.
This is a major contribution to European food cultural history. There
are extensive end notes and a long select bibliography. Quality/price
rating: 90.
22. AS ALWAYS, JULIA; the letters of Julia Child and Avis DeVoto
(Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Mariner Books, 2012; distr. T. Allen) has
been edited by Joan Reardon. It is a reprint of the acclaimed 2010
hardback book; it was an IACP winner. The entire correspondence covers
1952 to 1989 (when Avis died), but Reardon only goes to 1961, the
period when Julia Child was developing the first volume of her
Mastering the Art of French Cooking. DeVoto was Child's friend and
unofficial literary agent. The initial decade covers the beginnings of
a gastronomic awakening in American culinary development, with Child
leading the way. The more than 200 letters provide the correspondents'
deepest thoughts and feelings about food, friendship, and the making of
the book. This paperback is out just in time for Child's 100th
anniversary of her birth. Scattered throughout are some black and white
photos. For those who like a topical approach, there is even a
worthwhile index. Quality/price rating: 94.
(Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Mariner Books, 2012; distr. T. Allen) has
been edited by Joan Reardon. It is a reprint of the acclaimed 2010
hardback book; it was an IACP winner. The entire correspondence covers
1952 to 1989 (when Avis died), but Reardon only goes to 1961, the
period when Julia Child was developing the first volume of her
Mastering the Art of French Cooking. DeVoto was Child's friend and
unofficial literary agent. The initial decade covers the beginnings of
a gastronomic awakening in American culinary development, with Child
leading the way. The more than 200 letters provide the correspondents'
deepest thoughts and feelings about food, friendship, and the making of
the book. This paperback is out just in time for Child's 100th
anniversary of her birth. Scattered throughout are some black and white
photos. For those who like a topical approach, there is even a
worthwhile index. Quality/price rating: 94.
23. GRANDMA'S GERMAN COOKBOOK (DK Books, 2010, 2012, 195 pages, ISBN
978-0-7566-9432-6, $22 US hard covers) is by Birgit Hamm and Linn
Schmidt, food authors who live in Hamburg. It was originally published
by DK in German in 2010, with 85 classic preps as prepared by the
ladies' grandmothers (actually, there are six grandmothers involved).
It is a homey book, with a full range of soups, stews, dinners, sweets,
cakes, jams, and so forth. Fried potatoes, cabbage rolls, schnitzel,
spaetzle, roast duck, potato pancakes, marzipan, plum tart, Christmas
stollen -- mostly comfort food for a colder climate. There's a German
recipe index as well as a regular index. Cultural notes abound but
there is nothing on wines. Preparations have their ingredients listed
in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of
metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 88.
24. FANNIE FARMER 1896 COOK BOOK THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL (Skyhorse
Publishing, 1896, 2011; distr. T. Allen, 567 pages, ISBN 978-1-61608-
543-8, $12.95 US hard covers) is an open-and-shut photographic reprint
of the 1896 edition, with nothing added or taken away. This includes
the index and the two dozen or so pages of adverts from that time
period. There are 1380 recipes here, from boiling an egg to preparing a
calf's head. Her book is widely known for standardizing measurements in
recipes (the Boston Cooking School first developed this). So these are
the classic recipes, with ingredients listed in avoirdupois
measurements. But of course, there is no table of metric equivalents. A
useful book for the culinary historian at a bargain price.
Quality/price rating: 86.
25. NORWEGIAN CAKES AND COOKIES (Skyhorse Publishing, 2012; distr. T.
Allen, 158 pages, ISBN 978-1-61608-56-8, $19.5 US hard covers) is by
Sverre Saetre, who owns a patisserie in Oslo. It was originally
published in Norwegian in 2009, and this is its North American debut in
English. These are traditional Norwegian desserts with some modern re-
inventions. Saetre has been a member of the Norwegian National Culinary
Team since 2003; they were world champs in 2006 and Olympians in 2008.
There's a wide range here, more than enough to satisfy every taste: the
fyrstekake (butter pastry and marzipan), kokosholler (chocolate
truffles, tilslorte bondepiker (fruit compote). There's a primer
chapter on the basics, with tips and advice. As well, most ingredients
are scaled by metric and avoirdupois measurements. Here's about 60
recipes plus variations, but no index. The table of contents has been
expanded to include the names of the preps. The major arrangement is by
category: fruit, berries, dairy, nuts and spices, and chocolate.
Quality/price rating: 86.
Allen, 158 pages, ISBN 978-1-61608-56-8, $19.5 US hard covers) is by
Sverre Saetre, who owns a patisserie in Oslo. It was originally
published in Norwegian in 2009, and this is its North American debut in
English. These are traditional Norwegian desserts with some modern re-
inventions. Saetre has been a member of the Norwegian National Culinary
Team since 2003; they were world champs in 2006 and Olympians in 2008.
There's a wide range here, more than enough to satisfy every taste: the
fyrstekake (butter pastry and marzipan), kokosholler (chocolate
truffles, tilslorte bondepiker (fruit compote). There's a primer
chapter on the basics, with tips and advice. As well, most ingredients
are scaled by metric and avoirdupois measurements. Here's about 60
recipes plus variations, but no index. The table of contents has been
expanded to include the names of the preps. The major arrangement is by
category: fruit, berries, dairy, nuts and spices, and chocolate.
Quality/price rating: 86.
26. KNIFE SKILLS: how to carve/chop/slice/fillet (DK Books, 2008, 2012,
224 pages, ISBN 978-0-7566-9831-7, $11.95 US paper covers) is by Marcus
Wareing, Shaun Hill, Charlie Trotter and Lyn Hall – all are chefs
except Hall who is a food writer. Here are clear, step-by-step
photographs as only DK books can do. There is material on how to choose
knives, how to sharpen, and how to master techniques. This is the
paperback reprint to the 2008 hardback – with more than 400 photos and
a section on safety and First Aid. Great price. Quality/price rating:
90.
224 pages, ISBN 978-0-7566-9831-7, $11.95 US paper covers) is by Marcus
Wareing, Shaun Hill, Charlie Trotter and Lyn Hall – all are chefs
except Hall who is a food writer. Here are clear, step-by-step
photographs as only DK books can do. There is material on how to choose
knives, how to sharpen, and how to master techniques. This is the
paperback reprint to the 2008 hardback – with more than 400 photos and
a section on safety and First Aid. Great price. Quality/price rating:
90.
Chimo! www.deantudor.com
Monday, September 17, 2012
FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH: Craig Claiborne bio (Free Press)
THE MAN WHO CHANGED THE WAY WE EAT; Craig Claiborne and the American
food renaissance (Free Press, 2012; distr. Simon & Schuster, 339 pages,
ISBN 978-1-4391-9150-7, $27 US hard covers) is by Thomas McNamee, who
also wrote "Alice Waters and Chez Panisse". Claiborne was a remarkable
food editor at the powerful New York Times (from 1957) and over time he
managed to change North American attitudes to food, from falsely-made
foreign food and overdone meats to an ethnic European culture that
embraced crème fraiche, arugula, pesto, cilantro, balsamic, and
equipment for the home kitchen such as the Cuisinart, chef's knives,
and salad spinners. He gave Julia Child her first major review,
introduced Bocuse, Troigros, Prudhomme, Edna Lewis, Puck, and Pepin to
the US, and created a demand for Hazan, Jaffrey, Kennedy, and other
writers. He was probably the first "critical" restaurant reviewer in
the US, and was son emulated by hundreds of others. He promoted dinner
parties at home with fine food and wines, great conversation, and
social ease. There's also a good deal of material about his private
life and his gayness, but it is the food stories that are mainly
relevant here. There are end notes and a bibliography (listing all of
Claiborne's books). His first (a large booklet) was for Bloomingdale's
in 1957, followed by the New York Times Cookbook in 1961.
Audience and level of use: gastronomes, food readers.
Some interesting or unusual facts: On page one of the New York Times,
Nov 14, 1975 – "Just a quiet dinner for 2 in Paris: 31 dishes, 9 wines,
a $4000 check" – the famous dinner paid for by AmEx after Claiborne bid
$300 at a charity silent auction. The full account is here.
The downside to this book: lacks a favourite recipe or two. Also, I
wonder what that $4000 dinner would cost today.
The upside to this book: great detail on the ins and outs of the NYC
food scene, well-worth reading.
Quality/Price Rating: 90.
food renaissance (Free Press, 2012; distr. Simon & Schuster, 339 pages,
ISBN 978-1-4391-9150-7, $27 US hard covers) is by Thomas McNamee, who
also wrote "Alice Waters and Chez Panisse". Claiborne was a remarkable
food editor at the powerful New York Times (from 1957) and over time he
managed to change North American attitudes to food, from falsely-made
foreign food and overdone meats to an ethnic European culture that
embraced crème fraiche, arugula, pesto, cilantro, balsamic, and
equipment for the home kitchen such as the Cuisinart, chef's knives,
and salad spinners. He gave Julia Child her first major review,
introduced Bocuse, Troigros, Prudhomme, Edna Lewis, Puck, and Pepin to
the US, and created a demand for Hazan, Jaffrey, Kennedy, and other
writers. He was probably the first "critical" restaurant reviewer in
the US, and was son emulated by hundreds of others. He promoted dinner
parties at home with fine food and wines, great conversation, and
social ease. There's also a good deal of material about his private
life and his gayness, but it is the food stories that are mainly
relevant here. There are end notes and a bibliography (listing all of
Claiborne's books). His first (a large booklet) was for Bloomingdale's
in 1957, followed by the New York Times Cookbook in 1961.
Audience and level of use: gastronomes, food readers.
Some interesting or unusual facts: On page one of the New York Times,
Nov 14, 1975 – "Just a quiet dinner for 2 in Paris: 31 dishes, 9 wines,
a $4000 check" – the famous dinner paid for by AmEx after Claiborne bid
$300 at a charity silent auction. The full account is here.
The downside to this book: lacks a favourite recipe or two. Also, I
wonder what that $4000 dinner would cost today.
The upside to this book: great detail on the ins and outs of the NYC
food scene, well-worth reading.
Quality/Price Rating: 90.
Chimo! www.deantudor.com
Tuesday, September 11, 2012
WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR SEPTEMBER 15, 2012
WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR SEPTEMBER 15, 2012
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at
http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news
items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at
www.deantudor.com since 1994. My tastings are based on MVC (Modal
Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices
are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does
NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product
consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at
http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news
items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at
www.deantudor.com since 1994. My tastings are based on MVC (Modal
Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices
are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does
NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product
consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.
======>>>> ** BEST WINE OF THE RELEASE *UNDER* $20
White – Domaine Jacky Marteau Sauvignon Touraine 2011, a bargain savvy
with herbs galore. +745349, $12.95, QPR: 91.
with herbs galore. +745349, $12.95, QPR: 91.
Red – Chateau d'Angles Grand Vin 2007 Languedoc La Clape: very good
mid-palate notes, long length, well-aged, 14.5% ABV. South of France
herbs and spices all the way. +286492, $19.95, QPR: 91.
mid-palate notes, long length, well-aged, 14.5% ABV. South of France
herbs and spices all the way. +286492, $19.95, QPR: 91.
======>>>> ** BEST WINE OF THE RELEASE *OVER* $20
Burgess Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Estate Vineyards Napa, +291914, $37.95.
TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. 2017 Falls Vineyard Riesling 2011 VQA Vinemount Ridge: typical
Riesling MVC at a sterling pricepoint. Expect grapefruit, minerals,
some peaches. +294041, $18.95, QPR: 89.
2. Coffin Ridge Bone Dry Riesling 2011 VQA Ontario: from Bruce-Grey,
very good quality, an extra dry riesling with a bit of a bite. Needs
food. 11.9% ABV. +232744, $17, QPR: 89.
3. Lailey Vineyard Chardonnay 2010 VQA Niagara: honestly made well-
balanced, plush Chardonnay with kisses of oak and a lemony custard
finish. +193482, $19.95, QPR: 89.
4. Lakeview Cellars Reserve Riesling 2011 Roller Vineyards VQA Lincoln
Lakeshore: refreshing, extremely useful Riesling, 12.5% ABV, with all
the MVC. +294074, $16.95, QPR: 89.
5. Sebastiani Chardonnay 2010 Sonoma County: a very good in-your-face
California chardonnay, toasty finish, 13.5% ABV. +30791, $17.95, QPR:
89.
6. Domaine Seguinot-Bordet Chablis 2010: good definitive Chablis
character at this price point, 12.5% ABV, with minerality, fruity
flint, and unoaked. +289371, $19.95, QR: 89.
7. Martin Codax Burgans Albarino 2010 Rias Baixas: Burgans must be
Spanish for "bargains", as this is easily one of the better affordable
Albarinos around, with its peachy aromatic fruit forwardness. 12.5%
ABV. Twist top. +945063, $17.95, QPR: 89.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. 2017 Falls Vineyard Riesling 2011 VQA Vinemount Ridge: typical
Riesling MVC at a sterling pricepoint. Expect grapefruit, minerals,
some peaches. +294041, $18.95, QPR: 89.
2. Coffin Ridge Bone Dry Riesling 2011 VQA Ontario: from Bruce-Grey,
very good quality, an extra dry riesling with a bit of a bite. Needs
food. 11.9% ABV. +232744, $17, QPR: 89.
3. Lailey Vineyard Chardonnay 2010 VQA Niagara: honestly made well-
balanced, plush Chardonnay with kisses of oak and a lemony custard
finish. +193482, $19.95, QPR: 89.
4. Lakeview Cellars Reserve Riesling 2011 Roller Vineyards VQA Lincoln
Lakeshore: refreshing, extremely useful Riesling, 12.5% ABV, with all
the MVC. +294074, $16.95, QPR: 89.
5. Sebastiani Chardonnay 2010 Sonoma County: a very good in-your-face
California chardonnay, toasty finish, 13.5% ABV. +30791, $17.95, QPR:
89.
6. Domaine Seguinot-Bordet Chablis 2010: good definitive Chablis
character at this price point, 12.5% ABV, with minerality, fruity
flint, and unoaked. +289371, $19.95, QR: 89.
7. Martin Codax Burgans Albarino 2010 Rias Baixas: Burgans must be
Spanish for "bargains", as this is easily one of the better affordable
Albarinos around, with its peachy aromatic fruit forwardness. 12.5%
ABV. Twist top. +945063, $17.95, QPR: 89.
TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1.Featherstone Cabernet Franc 2010 VQA Niagara: tannic finish, tight,
but herby nonetheless, 13% ABV. Could be juicier after cellaring.
+6468, $16.95, QPR: 89.
2. Wildass Red 2009 VQA Niagara: juicy sipper or with food from
Stratus, good mix of fruit and wood, a winemaker's treasure and
delight. Twist top, 13% ABV. +86363, $19.95, QPR: 89.
3. Chakana Maipe Reserve Malbec 2010 Mendoza: delicious balanced fruit,
14% ABV, matured in French oak. +247320, $17.95, QPR: 89.
4. Koyle Reserva Syrah 2009 Colchagua Valley Chile: very North Rhonish
with plump upfront syrah tones. 14% ABV. +273961, $15.95, QPR: 89.
5. The Black Chook Shiraz/Viognier 2010 McLaren Vale: surefire winner
of Parker points at 90 or over since 2003, great track record, twist
top, 14.5% ABV. What's not to like? +66738, $17.95, QPR: 89.
6. Chateau de Millegrand Minervois 2010: Gold Medalist, very good
balance, North American appeal of sweet oak. +288944, $16.95, QPR: 89.
7. Ferraton Pere & Fils Plan de Dieu Cotes du Rhone-Villages 2009: very
good consistency, 214.5% ABV, BBQ wine, simple North Rhone style.
+74229, $15.95, QPR: 89.
8. Azul Portugal Vinho Tinto 2007 Bairrada: modestly priced dense wine,
well-aged, delicious fruit, 13% ABV. +292060, $12.95, QPR: 89.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1.Featherstone Cabernet Franc 2010 VQA Niagara: tannic finish, tight,
but herby nonetheless, 13% ABV. Could be juicier after cellaring.
+6468, $16.95, QPR: 89.
2. Wildass Red 2009 VQA Niagara: juicy sipper or with food from
Stratus, good mix of fruit and wood, a winemaker's treasure and
delight. Twist top, 13% ABV. +86363, $19.95, QPR: 89.
3. Chakana Maipe Reserve Malbec 2010 Mendoza: delicious balanced fruit,
14% ABV, matured in French oak. +247320, $17.95, QPR: 89.
4. Koyle Reserva Syrah 2009 Colchagua Valley Chile: very North Rhonish
with plump upfront syrah tones. 14% ABV. +273961, $15.95, QPR: 89.
5. The Black Chook Shiraz/Viognier 2010 McLaren Vale: surefire winner
of Parker points at 90 or over since 2003, great track record, twist
top, 14.5% ABV. What's not to like? +66738, $17.95, QPR: 89.
6. Chateau de Millegrand Minervois 2010: Gold Medalist, very good
balance, North American appeal of sweet oak. +288944, $16.95, QPR: 89.
7. Ferraton Pere & Fils Plan de Dieu Cotes du Rhone-Villages 2009: very
good consistency, 214.5% ABV, BBQ wine, simple North Rhone style.
+74229, $15.95, QPR: 89.
8. Azul Portugal Vinho Tinto 2007 Bairrada: modestly priced dense wine,
well-aged, delicious fruit, 13% ABV. +292060, $12.95, QPR: 89.
VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.
1. Bachelder Niagara Chardonnay 2010 VQA Niagara, +302083, $29.95
retail.
2. Closson Chase Closson Chase Vineyard Chardonnay 2009 VQA PEC,
+148866, $29.95.
3.Rolly Gassmann Stegreben de Rorschwihr Gewurztraminer 2009 Alsace,
+289439, $27.95.
4. Domaine Michel Caillot Meursault 2009, +281139, $42.95.
5. Roland Tessier & Fils Sancerre 2011, +10851, $20.95.
6. Henry of Pelham Reserve Pinot Noir 2007 VQA Niagara, +268391,
$24.95.
7. Bodegas LAN Reserva 2007 Rioja, +42929, $21.95.
8. Thomas Fogarty Lexington Meritage 2006 Santa Cruz Mountains, +83352,
$49.95.
9. Charles Cimicky The Autograph Shiraz 2008 Barossa, +27326, $34.95.
10. Gemma Barolo 2007, +285502, $29.95.
11. Ruffino Ducale Oro Chianti Classico Riserva 2007, +353201, $43.95.
12. Michele Castellani Colle Cristi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
2007, +222109, $44.95.
retail.
2. Closson Chase Closson Chase Vineyard Chardonnay 2009 VQA PEC,
+148866, $29.95.
3.Rolly Gassmann Stegreben de Rorschwihr Gewurztraminer 2009 Alsace,
+289439, $27.95.
4. Domaine Michel Caillot Meursault 2009, +281139, $42.95.
5. Roland Tessier & Fils Sancerre 2011, +10851, $20.95.
6. Henry of Pelham Reserve Pinot Noir 2007 VQA Niagara, +268391,
$24.95.
7. Bodegas LAN Reserva 2007 Rioja, +42929, $21.95.
8. Thomas Fogarty Lexington Meritage 2006 Santa Cruz Mountains, +83352,
$49.95.
9. Charles Cimicky The Autograph Shiraz 2008 Barossa, +27326, $34.95.
10. Gemma Barolo 2007, +285502, $29.95.
11. Ruffino Ducale Oro Chianti Classico Riserva 2007, +353201, $43.95.
12. Michele Castellani Colle Cristi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
2007, +222109, $44.95.
Chimo! www.deantudor.com
Monday, September 10, 2012
THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...
...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback
reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher
a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will
reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will
rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text
while keeping the focus tight. Here are some recent "re-editions"...
reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher
a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will
reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will
rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text
while keeping the focus tight. Here are some recent "re-editions"...
19. PRESERVING MADE EASY; small batches & simple techniques (Firefly,
2012, 286 pages, ISBN 978-1-77085-094-1, $9.99 CA paperback is by Ellie
Topp and Margaret Howard. It's based on THE COMPLETE BOOK OF SMALL-
BATCH PRESERVING; over 300 delicious recipes to use year-round. 2d
edition,
The authors are professional home economists and food consultants. Both
have authored and co-authored cookbooks before. Lots
of simple techniques are carefully explained here, so that food should
not spoil. Variations are suggested. The shtick is to do your own
processing and save over supermarket prices; hence, there are fairly
decent store knockoffs here. Covered are jams, jellies, pickles,
chutneys, sauces, salsas, conserves, low-sugar spreads, flavoured oils
and vinegars. This paperback has 200 of the larger book's 300 preps,
some reworked for simplicity. Preparations have their ingredients
listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no
separate table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 89.
20. EASY CAKES & COOKIES; cupcakes, brownies, muffins, loaves a& more
(Ryland, Peters & Small, 2012, 240 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-212-1,
$19.95 US hard covers) and21. EASY 30-MINUTE MEALS; quick and easy recipes for busy people
(Ryland, Peters & Small, 2012, 240 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-210-7,
$19.95 US hard covers) are the latest books in this publisher's "Easy"
series (over half-a-million books sold), bringing the total up to 18
thus far. The premise is a selection of easy preps from the stable of
writers at Ryland. All recipes are credited to such as Louise Pickford,
Maxine Clark, Ross Dobson, Sarah Rendell, Tonia George, and many
others. There are about 100 preps in each of the "Easy" books; all have
been previously published by Ryland. Try sweet potato and coconut soup,
porcini frittata, Thai chicken curry, mocha swirl loaf, lime drizzle
cake, or toffee pear muffins.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there is a separate table of metric
equivalents. Quality/price rating: 84.22. FISH & SHELLFISH; grilled & smoked (Harvard Common Press, 2002,
2012, 408 pages, ISBN 978-1-55832-181-6, $18.95 US soft covers) is by
Karen Adler, author of a dozen cookbooks, and Judith Fertig, also
author of a dozen cookbooks. Here they combine to give us 300 preps
plus sauces, marinades, rubs, and sides for seafood. The book was
originally published in 2002, and this is a paperback reissue. There's
a primer on grilling and smoking, with fish substitution guidelines.
Then the recipes are divided on fish or shellfish, smoked or grilled in
four chapters. There's fresh herbed-crusted mullet, grilled ocean
perch, grilled squid, smoked catfish salad, stir-grilled scallops, oak-
planked salmon, and more. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 85.23. SUMMER DAYS & BALMY NIGHTS (Ryland, Peters & Small, 2012, 276
pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-207-7, $27.95 US hard covers) has more than 160
recipes and ideas for summer entertaining Mediterranean-style. It's a
book package pulled together from the stable of food writers at Ryland,
There was an earlier book entitled "Lazy Days and Beach Blankets", and
this current effort extends that one. Major recipe contributions came
from Louise Pickford, Fiona Beckett, Maxine Clark, Ross Dobson, and
Clair Ferguson. Preps include lemon drop, peaches and sauternes ice
cream, chicken avgolemono, soupe verdon, watermelon and ricotta salata
salad, and spiced muscat figs. Arrangement is by course, with grazing
apps, salads, soups, grill work, alfresco desserts and drinks.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no separate table of metric
equivalents. Excellent photography. Quality/price rating: 84.
24. ARTISANAL GLUTEN-FREE COOKING; 275 great-tasting, from-scratch
recipes from around the world, perfect for every meal and for anyone on
a gluten-free diet, and even those who aren't. 2d ed. Rev. (The
Experiment, 2009, 2012; distr. T. Allen, 336 pages, ISBN 978-1-61519-
050-8, $18.95 US paper covers) is by the husband-and-wife team of Kelli
Bronski, Cornell hotel school graduate, and writer Peter Bronski (who
has celiac disease since before 2007). Everything, of course, is
gluten-free in this book. There are 70 GF flour preps for breads,
pastas, and pizzas, as well as 20 for GF flour desserts. They have
developed their own mix ratios for gluten-free flours (as has almost
every other gluten-free writer): if you need it, you'll have to
experiment to see what works best. This one is principally brown rice,
sorghum, and corn starch. But it is their default GF flour mix. There's
a primer plus a range of recipes without gluten. Many preps never had
gluten to begin with, such as bacon-wrapped shrimp. To my mind, a
better book would have been based solely on replacing gluten in
recipes. Only about 100 of the 275 preps do that. The new edition has
50 more colour photos, 25 more recipes, and some appeal to vegetarians
and vegans. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois
measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 85.
25. TEN-MINUTE BENTO (Vertical Inc., 2007, 2012; dist. Random House of
Canada, 80 pages, ISBN 978-1-935654-41-4, $14.95 US soft covers) is by
Megumi Fuji. It was published by Kodansha in Japan in 2007, and this is
the North American reissue. And it is a terrific idea. Tired of all
those 30-minute or less easy meals? Try the ten-minute bento. These are
easy, creative bento box meals, classic preps and some with modern
ideas. "Just cook up some rice and add a topping" – or two. Here are
sliced beef bento, omelet and wakame rice bento, sesame chicken and
veggie with salsify rice bento, or ramen salad bento. There are 27
bento boxes, plus some sides and desserts. Of course, it helps to have
a good pantry. Excellent photos. Preparations have their ingredients
listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no
separate table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 90.
26. THE PERFECT START TO YOUR DAY; delicious recipes for breakfast and
brunch (Ryland, Peters & Small, 2009, 2012; distr. T. Allen, 144 pages,
ISBN 978-1-84975-219-0, $19.95 U hard covers) is by food writer-stylist
Tonia George who has written for Ryland before. This is a revised
edition of "Breakfast & Brunch" published in 2009. There are abut 100
preps here that cover the usual terrain of drinks, fruit, grains, eggs,
pastries, pancakes, waffles, mains, sandwiches, salads, sides and
preserves. But it is all well-framed, with convincing arguments that
this style of food is appropriate all day long. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but
there is no table of metric equivalents. Try lemon and sage tisane,
smoked haddock and avocado omelette wraps, potato and rosemary pancakes
with bacon and honey, or English breakfast quiche. Quality/price
rating: 85,
27. MAKE IT TONIGHT; delicious no-fuss dinner solutions for every cook.
Updated edition (Transcontinental Books, 2007, 2012; distr. Random
House of Canada, 240 pages, ISBN 978-0-9813938-6-5, $27.95 CAN paper
covers) is from the test kitchens at Canadian Living. It was first
published in 2007 under the guidance of Elizabeth Baird and her team.
This time it has been redesigned and redone by the Test Kitchen, with
55 new recipes and photos. The meals remain fast (15 to 30 minutes),
convenient (pantry or specialized equipment such as slow cooker), and
with few ingredients (usually 5 or fewer). Preparations have their
ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but
there is no separate table of equivalents. Nutritional information is
provided, and usually there is a sidebar with each prep indicating some
technique or tip or advice. It is basic stuff, but it is organized well
and there is a large typeface and plenty of white space. Quality/price
rating: 85.Chimo! www.deantudor.com
Saturday, September 8, 2012
Drink Book of the Month: Whiskey Opus (DK Books)
WHISKEY OPUS; the world's greatest distilleries and their whiskeys
(DK Books, 2012, 300 pages, ISBN 978-0-7566-9833-1, $40 US hard covers)
is by Gavin D. Smith and Dominic Roskrow, with contributions by Davin
De Kergommeaux and Jurgen Deibel (Davin is a Canadian writer, author of
whisky articles for magazines and author of Canadian Whisky. This is an
incredibly informative book about the brown spirit of whiskey and
whisky. Every single style is noted, from single-malts to poteen, with
info on how to appreciate each one. The emphasis is global: so while
Scotland has the lion's share of 130 pages, there are about 125 for the
ROW. The US and Canada are separate, but all whiskey-producing
countries are included, along with a glossary and intro primer. It is a
huge book, measuring 11 by 9 inches, lots of photos (a DK Books
specialty). Regions are described, e.g., Speyside, Islay, Highlands,
Lowlands, and there are tasting notes for selected distilleries. It's
not comprehensive: only the best are included. Still, there is enough
here to keep even the most fervid fan happy. As I write this review,
you can get the book from Amazon.Com for $27.33 (or $27.59 in Canada,
with free shipping). Quality/Price Rating: 90.
(DK Books, 2012, 300 pages, ISBN 978-0-7566-9833-1, $40 US hard covers)
is by Gavin D. Smith and Dominic Roskrow, with contributions by Davin
De Kergommeaux and Jurgen Deibel (Davin is a Canadian writer, author of
whisky articles for magazines and author of Canadian Whisky. This is an
incredibly informative book about the brown spirit of whiskey and
whisky. Every single style is noted, from single-malts to poteen, with
info on how to appreciate each one. The emphasis is global: so while
Scotland has the lion's share of 130 pages, there are about 125 for the
ROW. The US and Canada are separate, but all whiskey-producing
countries are included, along with a glossary and intro primer. It is a
huge book, measuring 11 by 9 inches, lots of photos (a DK Books
specialty). Regions are described, e.g., Speyside, Islay, Highlands,
Lowlands, and there are tasting notes for selected distilleries. It's
not comprehensive: only the best are included. Still, there is enough
here to keep even the most fervid fan happy. As I write this review,
you can get the book from Amazon.Com for $27.33 (or $27.59 in Canada,
with free shipping). Quality/Price Rating: 90.
Chimo! www.deantudor.com
Wednesday, September 5, 2012
Some new Ontario wines recently tasted...
1. From Chateau des Charmes,
* Chateau des Charmes Aligote 2010 VQA St. David's Bench, $13.55,
+296848 LCBO: made from a rare French vinifera (seldom seen outside
Burgundy) that Chat. des Charmes has cultivated since 1978, loaded with
orchard fruit (apples and pears) and ending with a crisp finishing
acidity suggesting food more than sipping. 13% ABV.
+296848 LCBO: made from a rare French vinifera (seldom seen outside
Burgundy) that Chat. des Charmes has cultivated since 1978, loaded with
orchard fruit (apples and pears) and ending with a crisp finishing
acidity suggesting food more than sipping. 13% ABV.
* Chateau des Charmes Gamay Noir 2009 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, $12.55,
+57349 LCBO: medium-bodied, suggestive of Beaujolais (same grape
variety). Easy drinking of cherry-berry flavours, patios, parties, BBQ.
Ready now, with some tannic structure to carry through a whole meal.
13% ABV.
+57349 LCBO: medium-bodied, suggestive of Beaujolais (same grape
variety). Easy drinking of cherry-berry flavours, patios, parties, BBQ.
Ready now, with some tannic structure to carry through a whole meal.
13% ABV.
* Chateau des Charmes Vidal Icewine 2009 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake,
$25.95 for 200 mL, +565861 Vintages: a nifty icewine with apricot as
the defining aroma and flavour, followed by honey tones. Read now, but
can be aged (but then it will taste different and, in my opinion,
better). Perfect for gifting.
$25.95 for 200 mL, +565861 Vintages: a nifty icewine with apricot as
the defining aroma and flavour, followed by honey tones. Read now, but
can be aged (but then it will taste different and, in my opinion,
better). Perfect for gifting.
2. From Huff Estates,
* Huff Estates Pinot Gris 2011 VQA Ontario, $19.95 at winery: from
vineyards in PEC and NOTL (hence the Ontario VQA designation). Stress
is on the French style (winemaker F. Picard is French) and uses the
"gris" descriptor rather than the more-common "grigio". "Gris" usually
indicates more aromatics and floral consistency right through to an
enticing finish. Body is firmer and colouring is more straw or
yellowish. Useful as an aperitif or first course wine, but it is more
demanding than a regular sipper. 12.5% ABV.
vineyards in PEC and NOTL (hence the Ontario VQA designation). Stress
is on the French style (winemaker F. Picard is French) and uses the
"gris" descriptor rather than the more-common "grigio". "Gris" usually
indicates more aromatics and floral consistency right through to an
enticing finish. Body is firmer and colouring is more straw or
yellowish. Useful as an aperitif or first course wine, but it is more
demanding than a regular sipper. 12.5% ABV.
* Huff Estates Riesling Off Dry 2011 VQA Ontario, $17.95 at winery: I
did not find this "off-dry" at all, but rather a typical Ontario
Riesling with body and finishing acidity. More a first course or
aperitif than a sipper as the label may imply. Good balance of
sweetness and acidity. 12% ABV.
did not find this "off-dry" at all, but rather a typical Ontario
Riesling with body and finishing acidity. More a first course or
aperitif than a sipper as the label may imply. Good balance of
sweetness and acidity. 12% ABV.
* Huff Estates Riesling Reserve Sculpture Series 2011 VQA Ontario,
$21.95 at winery: more stuffing in this Riesling, again with some
citric and peach tones, and a longer acidity on the finish. Definitely
food, and later in the meal. Good offset to fatty foods such as goose.
This one could be cellared for 5 years. 12.5% ABV.
$21.95 at winery: more stuffing in this Riesling, again with some
citric and peach tones, and a longer acidity on the finish. Definitely
food, and later in the meal. Good offset to fatty foods such as goose.
This one could be cellared for 5 years. 12.5% ABV.
* Huff Estates Chardonnay VQA Niagara, $17.95 at winery: described by
the winery as "clean and lean", and I would add "green" for its apple
tones. Some tropicality. Stainless steel fermentation, no oak.
Excellent food wine, main courses. 12.5% ABV.
the winery as "clean and lean", and I would add "green" for its apple
tones. Some tropicality. Stainless steel fermentation, no oak.
Excellent food wine, main courses. 12.5% ABV.
* Huff Estates Merlot 2011 VQA Ontario, $19.95 at winery: very fruity,
maybe fruit gone wild, no oak or other aging – just stainless steel.
Typical red fruit style, cherry-berry even, some anise. First course or
cheese. 12.8% ABV.
maybe fruit gone wild, no oak or other aging – just stainless steel.
Typical red fruit style, cherry-berry even, some anise. First course or
cheese. 12.8% ABV.
* Huff Estates Merlot 2008 South Bay Vineyards VQA PEC, $29.95 at
winery: previous vintages have won Gold medals at Artevino, the PEC
food and wine festival. This has just been released, but the taste
profile follows the past, so there is no reason why it cannot win again
in its class! Definitely French-style Pomerol, 18 months in new French
oak, 13% ABV. Black fruit, plumy, some underbrush showing, wood tones.
Good for laying down until at least 2016. Or aerate.
winery: previous vintages have won Gold medals at Artevino, the PEC
food and wine festival. This has just been released, but the taste
profile follows the past, so there is no reason why it cannot win again
in its class! Definitely French-style Pomerol, 18 months in new French
oak, 13% ABV. Black fruit, plumy, some underbrush showing, wood tones.
Good for laying down until at least 2016. Or aerate.
Chimo! www.deantudor.com
Monday, September 3, 2012
Aug 29/12: re-launch of Tundra Restaurant
The Date and Time: Wednesday, August 29, 2012 6PM to 9PM
The Event: re-launch of Tundra Restaurant
The Venue: Hilton Toronto
The Target Audience: food, wine and lifestyle media
The Availability/Catalogue: beers, wines and cocktails were from the
bar.
The Quote/Background: Tundra has been through a makeover, with new
décor, menu, and ambience. Kevin Prendergast, Executive Chef (since
2006) was around us for chats – he was unmistakable with his presence.
The Montreal-based design firm Lemaymichaud had enhanced the entrance
with a sphere fashioned from Vancouver Island red cedar. The new
centerpiece features glass panels etched with a satellite image of
Ungava Bay. Earth tones dominate, especially at the horseshoe-shaped
bar.
The Wines: we were served Giovello Blu Prosecco (spritzy, party-like),
Lailey Vineyards Chardonnay 2009 VQA Niagara (full, ripe, nuances of
oak and tropical fruit, 90 pts), and Peninsula Ridge Merlot A.J. Lepp
Vineyard Reserve 2010 VA Niagara Lakeshore (nose a bit closed at this
point but red fruit prevailed on the palate, 89 pts). There were
cocktails from Diageo (Grand Marnier, Ketel One) which I did not have,
and beers (such as Sam Adams lager) which I did not have. Additional
drinks were poured with desserts in the 32nd Floor Executive Lounge.
The Food: The new menu features reindeer carpaccio, venison, elk, BC
black cod, and more, to be seasonally adjusted four times a year.
Everything, of course, is sustainable and locally sourced. Wild and/or
organic ingredients come from a Quebec-based forager (fiddleheads,
ramps, berries, mushrooms). Cheeses come via the Cheese Boutique. We
were served via four stations: house cured salmon gravlax (with ramps,
mustard cream cheese, dill), buffalo mozzarella (with charred leeks,
pea shoots, pickled fiddleheads, and pine nut shards), pan-fired
scallops, and beef slices. Passarounds included bison sliders, mac and
cheese lobster, sushi rolls. There was so much food…
The Downside: I wore myself out talking, drinking, and eating savouries
– I passed on the invite to the Executive Lounge.
The Upside: I had a very good time talking to a lot of people and other
media folk, plus Michael Howell from Tempest in Nova Scotia. The food
was terrific, excellent matches to the wines (and vice versa).
The Contact Person: renee@thesirengroup.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade):
94.
The Event: re-launch of Tundra Restaurant
The Venue: Hilton Toronto
The Target Audience: food, wine and lifestyle media
The Availability/Catalogue: beers, wines and cocktails were from the
bar.
The Quote/Background: Tundra has been through a makeover, with new
décor, menu, and ambience. Kevin Prendergast, Executive Chef (since
2006) was around us for chats – he was unmistakable with his presence.
The Montreal-based design firm Lemaymichaud had enhanced the entrance
with a sphere fashioned from Vancouver Island red cedar. The new
centerpiece features glass panels etched with a satellite image of
Ungava Bay. Earth tones dominate, especially at the horseshoe-shaped
bar.
The Wines: we were served Giovello Blu Prosecco (spritzy, party-like),
Lailey Vineyards Chardonnay 2009 VQA Niagara (full, ripe, nuances of
oak and tropical fruit, 90 pts), and Peninsula Ridge Merlot A.J. Lepp
Vineyard Reserve 2010 VA Niagara Lakeshore (nose a bit closed at this
point but red fruit prevailed on the palate, 89 pts). There were
cocktails from Diageo (Grand Marnier, Ketel One) which I did not have,
and beers (such as Sam Adams lager) which I did not have. Additional
drinks were poured with desserts in the 32nd Floor Executive Lounge.
The Food: The new menu features reindeer carpaccio, venison, elk, BC
black cod, and more, to be seasonally adjusted four times a year.
Everything, of course, is sustainable and locally sourced. Wild and/or
organic ingredients come from a Quebec-based forager (fiddleheads,
ramps, berries, mushrooms). Cheeses come via the Cheese Boutique. We
were served via four stations: house cured salmon gravlax (with ramps,
mustard cream cheese, dill), buffalo mozzarella (with charred leeks,
pea shoots, pickled fiddleheads, and pine nut shards), pan-fired
scallops, and beef slices. Passarounds included bison sliders, mac and
cheese lobster, sushi rolls. There was so much food…
The Downside: I wore myself out talking, drinking, and eating savouries
– I passed on the invite to the Executive Lounge.
The Upside: I had a very good time talking to a lot of people and other
media folk, plus Michael Howell from Tempest in Nova Scotia. The food
was terrific, excellent matches to the wines (and vice versa).
The Contact Person: renee@thesirengroup.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade):
94.
Chimo! www.deantudor.com
Wednesday, August 29, 2012
WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR SEPTEMBER 1, 2012
WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR SEPTEMBER 1, 2012
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at
http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news
items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at
www.deantudor.com since 1994. My tastings are based on MVC (Modal
Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices
are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does
NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product
consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at
http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news
items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at
www.deantudor.com since 1994. My tastings are based on MVC (Modal
Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices
are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does
NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product
consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.
======>>>> ** BEST WINE OF THE RELEASE *UNDER* $20
Monasterio de las Vinas Reserva 2006 Carinena Spain: like a southern
Rhone, but a blend of Tempranillo, carignan and grenache (GTC?). Barrel
aging emphasizes spices. Black fruit dominates. Bargain priced.
+166579, $13.95, QPR: 90.
Rhone, but a blend of Tempranillo, carignan and grenache (GTC?). Barrel
aging emphasizes spices. Black fruit dominates. Bargain priced.
+166579, $13.95, QPR: 90.
======>>>> ** BEST WINE OF THE RELEASE *OVER* $20
Merry Edwards Pinot Noir 2009 Russian River Valley Meredith Vineyard,
+656868, $64.95.
+656868, $64.95.
TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Mike Weir Riesling 2010 VQA Niagara: off-dry taste and tones, very
nicely made, well-rounded, 12% ABV, MVC. +229286, $14.95, QPR: 89.
2. Andre Blanck & Ses Fils Rosenbourg Pinot Blanc 2011 Alsace:
affordable summery wine (only a few weeks left!), minerals and some
lean and green tones. 12.5% ABV. +626606, $13.95, QPR: 89.
3. Joseph Cattin Gewurztraminer 2010 Alsace: lots of Gewurz MVC playing
around, with flowers, spices, and that famous finish. Gold Medalist.
+224626, $16.95, QPR: 90.
4. Antonin Rodet Chateau de Mercey Chardonnay Bourgogne 2009: basic and
affordable white burgundy for under a double sawbuck, MVC, 13% ABV.
+278978, $19.95, QPR: 89.
5. Donatien Bahuaud Les Grands Mortiers Vouvray 2011: a medium off-dry
chenin blanc from the Loire, 12% ABV, with some forest floor complexity
and orchard notes. +140889, $15.95, QPR: 89.
6. Pedro Escudero Fuente Elvira Verdejo 2010 Rueda: a quality summer
sipper, 13.5% ABV, orchard fruit and citrus tones. Sip or with first
course food. +218313, $14.95, QPR: 89.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Mike Weir Riesling 2010 VQA Niagara: off-dry taste and tones, very
nicely made, well-rounded, 12% ABV, MVC. +229286, $14.95, QPR: 89.
2. Andre Blanck & Ses Fils Rosenbourg Pinot Blanc 2011 Alsace:
affordable summery wine (only a few weeks left!), minerals and some
lean and green tones. 12.5% ABV. +626606, $13.95, QPR: 89.
3. Joseph Cattin Gewurztraminer 2010 Alsace: lots of Gewurz MVC playing
around, with flowers, spices, and that famous finish. Gold Medalist.
+224626, $16.95, QPR: 90.
4. Antonin Rodet Chateau de Mercey Chardonnay Bourgogne 2009: basic and
affordable white burgundy for under a double sawbuck, MVC, 13% ABV.
+278978, $19.95, QPR: 89.
5. Donatien Bahuaud Les Grands Mortiers Vouvray 2011: a medium off-dry
chenin blanc from the Loire, 12% ABV, with some forest floor complexity
and orchard notes. +140889, $15.95, QPR: 89.
6. Pedro Escudero Fuente Elvira Verdejo 2010 Rueda: a quality summer
sipper, 13.5% ABV, orchard fruit and citrus tones. Sip or with first
course food. +218313, $14.95, QPR: 89.
TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. McManis Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 California: juicy Cal feel, BBQ,
good depth to the finish, 13.5% ABV. +212126, $19.95, QPR: 89.
2. Vina Maipo Gran Devocion Carmenere/Syrah 2009 Maule Valley:
absolutely delicious fresh fruity wine, with many berry tones. 14.5%
ABV. +274100, $16.95, QPR: 90.
3. Vina Tarapaca Gran Reserva Carmenere 2010 Maipo: many herbs in this
big wine, 14$ ABV. +57513, $16.95, QPR: 89.
4. John Hancock Trinity Hill Syrah 2010 Hawkes Bay: excellent North
Rhone style wine, with a whiff of brett, plus, chocolate, black fruit,
14% ABV. Gold medalist. 194274, $20.95, QPR: 90.
5. Chateau La Gorce 2008 Medoc: excellent MVC example of a quality
Bordeaux at a decent price, 13.5% ABV. Gold Medalist. +280057, $16.95,
QPR: 89.
6. Chateau Cesseras Rouge 2008 Minervois la Liviniere: cabernet franc
with a long herby finish, 13% ABV. Lip-smacking. +690570, $19.95, QPR:
89.
7. Jean-Luc Baldes Triguedina La Chapelle du Clos Malbec Cahors 2008:
good depth to the long finish, lots of ed fruit and mocha tones. 13.5%
ABV. +27653, $16.95, QPR: 89.
8. Giordano Maestri Italiani Nebbiolo d'Alba 2009: great nebbiolo MVC,
lay down for a year or two, 13.5% ABV. Like a lighter Barolo. +159483,
$16.95, QPR: 89.
9. Sampietrana Vigna della Monache Riserva Salice Salentino 2006
Puglia: fruity, plummy, mocha, 13.5% ABV. Concentrated tones. +247908,
$15.95, QPR: 89.
10. Legon Crianza 2008 Ribera del Duero: MVC delicious, with great
North American appeal. Strongly wooded, 13.5% ABV. +276089, $15.95,
QPR: 89.
11. Bod. Patrocinio Senorio de Unuela Reserva 2007 Rioja: a good price
for a nicely aged Rioja at the reserve level. 14.5% ABV. +172536,
$17.95, QPR: 89.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. McManis Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 California: juicy Cal feel, BBQ,
good depth to the finish, 13.5% ABV. +212126, $19.95, QPR: 89.
2. Vina Maipo Gran Devocion Carmenere/Syrah 2009 Maule Valley:
absolutely delicious fresh fruity wine, with many berry tones. 14.5%
ABV. +274100, $16.95, QPR: 90.
3. Vina Tarapaca Gran Reserva Carmenere 2010 Maipo: many herbs in this
big wine, 14$ ABV. +57513, $16.95, QPR: 89.
4. John Hancock Trinity Hill Syrah 2010 Hawkes Bay: excellent North
Rhone style wine, with a whiff of brett, plus, chocolate, black fruit,
14% ABV. Gold medalist. 194274, $20.95, QPR: 90.
5. Chateau La Gorce 2008 Medoc: excellent MVC example of a quality
Bordeaux at a decent price, 13.5% ABV. Gold Medalist. +280057, $16.95,
QPR: 89.
6. Chateau Cesseras Rouge 2008 Minervois la Liviniere: cabernet franc
with a long herby finish, 13% ABV. Lip-smacking. +690570, $19.95, QPR:
89.
7. Jean-Luc Baldes Triguedina La Chapelle du Clos Malbec Cahors 2008:
good depth to the long finish, lots of ed fruit and mocha tones. 13.5%
ABV. +27653, $16.95, QPR: 89.
8. Giordano Maestri Italiani Nebbiolo d'Alba 2009: great nebbiolo MVC,
lay down for a year or two, 13.5% ABV. Like a lighter Barolo. +159483,
$16.95, QPR: 89.
9. Sampietrana Vigna della Monache Riserva Salice Salentino 2006
Puglia: fruity, plummy, mocha, 13.5% ABV. Concentrated tones. +247908,
$15.95, QPR: 89.
10. Legon Crianza 2008 Ribera del Duero: MVC delicious, with great
North American appeal. Strongly wooded, 13.5% ABV. +276089, $15.95,
QPR: 89.
11. Bod. Patrocinio Senorio de Unuela Reserva 2007 Rioja: a good price
for a nicely aged Rioja at the reserve level. 14.5% ABV. +172536,
$17.95, QPR: 89.
VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.
1. Marimar Estate La Masia Don Miguel Vineyard Chardonnay 2008 Russian
River Valley, +270090, $25.95 retail.
2. Treana Marsanne/Viognier 2009 Central Coast, +11247, $29.95
3. Seguinot-Bordet Vaillons Chablis 1er Cru 2010, +289389, $29.95.
4. Jean Pabiot Domaine des Fines Caillottes Pouilly-Fume 2010, +695908,
$21.5.
5. Lailey Pinot Noir 2010 Niagara VQA, +591404, $24.95
6. Farina Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2008, +995910, $34.95.
7. Starry Night Old Vine Zinfandel 2007 Russian River Valley, +293332,
$32.95.
8. Masi Bossi Fedrigotti Fojaneghe Rosso 2008 IGT Vigneti delle
Dolomiti Alto Adige, +279109, $29.95.
9. Rivera Il Falcone Riserva 2007 Castel del Monte Puglia, +177295,
$22.95.
10. Castello di Bossi C. Berardenga Chianti Classico 2009, +994608,
$22.95.
River Valley, +270090, $25.95 retail.
2. Treana Marsanne/Viognier 2009 Central Coast, +11247, $29.95
3. Seguinot-Bordet Vaillons Chablis 1er Cru 2010, +289389, $29.95.
4. Jean Pabiot Domaine des Fines Caillottes Pouilly-Fume 2010, +695908,
$21.5.
5. Lailey Pinot Noir 2010 Niagara VQA, +591404, $24.95
6. Farina Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2008, +995910, $34.95.
7. Starry Night Old Vine Zinfandel 2007 Russian River Valley, +293332,
$32.95.
8. Masi Bossi Fedrigotti Fojaneghe Rosso 2008 IGT Vigneti delle
Dolomiti Alto Adige, +279109, $29.95.
9. Rivera Il Falcone Riserva 2007 Castel del Monte Puglia, +177295,
$22.95.
10. Castello di Bossi C. Berardenga Chianti Classico 2009, +994608,
$22.95.
Chimo! www.deantudor.com
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