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Wednesday, August 21, 2013

SHINE {ON} Ontario wine promotion, July 25, 2013

The Date and Time: Thursday, July 25, 2013  6Pm to 8PM

The Event: SHINE {ON} with Ontario wines.

The Venue: LCBO Summerhill

The Target Audience: wine press

The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are part of the LCBO promotion running Sept 15 through October 12.

The Quote/Background: Astrid Brummer, product manager of Ontario wines, and Sue-Ann Staff, local winemaker, spoke to the wines. This is the largest annual promotion of Ontario wines, with adverts, highlights of 167 products from 55 Ontario wineries, new wines, new Essentials listings, extensive use fo social media, and many interviews with winemakers. It all begins Sept 14 with www.lcboourwinecountry.com and culminates with the big wine show at the ROM, October 10, 6:30 onwards (100 VQA wines, 30 wineries, $65).

The Wines: We were given good tasting sheets with technical data, but the wines were not presented in that order, so there was some to-ing and fro-ing through the pages.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Konzelmann Gewurztraminer 2011 VQA, +392357, $14.95 – great with oysters

-Cattail Creek Cabernet Merlot 2010 VQA, +344135, $14.95 – very good Bordeaux-like quality.

-Sketches Merlot Cabernet 2011 VQA, +130252, $19.95

-Tawse Grower's Blend Pinot Noir 2010 VQA, +130989, $31.95

-Honeysuckle Seyval Vidal VQA 2011, +91934, $12.95

-Union Gold VQA 2011, +351049, $14.95

-Flat Rock Good Kharma Chardonnay 2010 VQA, +681247, $16.95

-Sue-Ann Staff Merlot 2010 VQA, +347651, $17.95

-Southbrook Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, +193573, $22.95

-Bachelder Niagara Chardonnay VQA 2011, +302083, $29.95

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (8890 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Angels Gate Pinot Gris VQA 2011, +331215, $13.95

-Pillitteri Pic'd White VQA 2012, +317263, $12.95

-Small Talk Burning Ambition White VQA 2010, +310433, $13.95

-Cattail Creek Riesling VQA 2012, +241547, $14.95

-Local Squeeze White VQA 2012, +357418, $13.95

-Reif The Empress Chardonnay VQA 2011, +346791, $12.95

-Sprucewood Shores Riesling VQA 2011, +326249, $13.95

-Mike Weir Pinot Noir VQA 2009, +686972, $16.95

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (8587 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Pondview Harmony White VQA 2011, +308718, $14.95

-Brickyard Riesling VQA 2012, +346866, $13.95

-Coyote's Run Pinot Noir VQA 2011, +53090, $19.95

-Pondview Harmony Red VQA 2010, +336495, $14.95

-Sandbanks Gewurztraminer VQA 2011, +343350, $14.95

-Earth & Sky Riesling VQA 2011, +343350, $14.95

-Kacaba Unoaked Chardonnay 2012 VQA, +326975, $14.95

-Mike Weir Sauvignon Blanc 2012 VQA, +686972, $16.95

-Wayne Gretzky Pinot Grigio VQA 2012, +326256, $14.95

-Small Talk Faux Pas Riesling Sauvignon Blanc VQA 2011, +343384, $14.95.

-Cottage Block Riesling VQA 2012, +346601, $12.95

-Sandbanks Dunes Red VQA 2012, +346445, $16.95

-Earth & Sky Pinot Noir VQA 2010, +343368, $15.95

-13th Street Cuvee Rose VQA, +147504, $24.95

 

The Food: Farmhouse Tavern (Junction Triangle) provided the food – oysters, gravid lax, bacon, veggies and pickles, duck heart tartare – which were presented as food matches.

The Downside: it was a small group, but…

The Upside: …that gave us more time and scope to mingle and enjoy food and wine.

The Contact Person: Lauren@wolffpublicrelations.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 87.

Tuesday, August 20, 2013

Bodegas Beronia tasting at Patria, July 18/13; notes

The Date and Time: Thursday, July 18, 2013  11:30 AM to 3 PM

The Event: To celebrate the 40th anniversary of Bodegas Beronia in Ollauri, Rioja. The head winemaker Matias Calleja Ugartewas invited for a small press tasting and lunch.

The Venue: Patria Restaurant

The Target Audience: wine press

The Availability/Catalogue: only the older wines are not available; the rest are through the LCBO delivery streams.

The Quote/Background: Beronia is now owned by Gonzalez Byass. Both firms are repped in Ontario by Woodman Wines and Spirits.

The Wines: There were two white wines and a rose.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Beronia Tempranillo Barrel Fermented 2011, +723643, $17.95 – Sept 28/13 Vintages

-Beronia Gran Reserva 1973, not available (5% viura was added for acidity)

-Beronia Gran Reserva 2006, +9440965, $34.95 – March 2014

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (8890 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Beronia Barrel Fermented Viura 2011, $17.95 private order

-Beronia Tempranillo 2010, +243055, $11.65 LCBO

-Beronia Crianza 2009, $16.95 consignment

-Beronia Reserva 2008, +50203, $18.95 Vintages

-Beronia Gran Reserva 1994, not available

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (8587 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Beronia Viura 2012, +190801, $14.95 – arriving in Jan 2014

-Beronia Rosado 2012, +323519, $14.95 Vintages

 

The samples of the Beronia Gran Reserva 1982 were oxidated.

 

The Food: we could have any wine we wanted from the tasting, so some of us lined up tasting samples to go with each course. Course One featured pan con tomate, quince jam, seleccion de embutidos (with serrano), and dates with bacon and Manchego. Course Two had shaved fennel and Manchego with artichokes, pasta with clams and chorizo, and an empanada with braised meats. There was a dessert but no wine to go with it.

The Downside: it was a hot day with no air conditioning. I got there early and positioned myself under a fan, after testing the air currents. I was also the only one wearing sensible shorts.

The Upside: a chance to hear and speak with Matias.

The Contact Person:   jason@woodmanwinesandspirits.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 92.

Sunday, August 18, 2013

Tasting La Ferme du Mont, July 12/13

The Date and Time: Friday, July 12, 2013  Noon3 PM

The Event: Seminar and luncheon with Stephane Vedeau, owner-winemaker of La Ferme du Mont, in Valreas Southern Rhone.

The Venue: Café Nicole, Novotel Esplanade.

The Target Audience: wine media

The Availability/Catalogue: Four of the 6 wines are available through the LCBO, the fifth will be arriving soon to Vintages. No word on the sixth.

The Quote/Background: Vedeau decamped Languedoc and moved to the Rhone to begin making nearly-organic wines (natural, sustainable, etc.) on a 50 hectare estate. The main focal point today was La Truffiere 2011, a charming white being released in July.

The Wines:

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-La Ferme du Mont Chateauneuf du Pape Vendange 2011 Blanc [95% grenache blanc] - limited

-La Ferme du Mont Chateauneuf du Pape Cotes Capelan 2010, +78857, $63

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (8890 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-La Ferme du Mont Le Ponnant Cotes du Rhone 2011, +171371, $17

-La Ferme du Mont La Truffiere Cotes du Rhone 2011, +234716, $14.95

-La Ferme du Mont Cote Jugunda Gigondas 2010, +354118, $29.95

-La Ferme du Mont Premiere Cote Cotes du Rhone 2009, $15 soon at Vintages

 

The Food: we began with seared scallop (La Truffiere), followed by tomato and bocconcini (Premiere Cote) and prosciutto and asparagus (Le Ponnant). The heavy guns came out with the duck confit (Gigondas) and the lamb chop (Chateauneuf du Pape rouge). It was all very successful and delicious.

The Downside: nothing really, except that the white Chateauneuf is made in 500 bottles, and probably won't make it to Toronto. Vedeau brought it in with his luggage.

The Upside: a great chance to participate in the seminar about Rhone wines.

The Contact Person: rbales@eurovintage.com or sales@eurovintage.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 91.

Wednesday, August 14, 2013

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR AUGUST 17, 2013


WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR AUGUST 17, 2013
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at
http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news
items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at
www.deantudor.com since 1994. My tastings are based on MVC (Modal
Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices
are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does
NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product
consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.
 

======>>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *UNDER* $20
 
Walimea Estates Spinyback Sauvignon Blanc 2012 Nelson: lively aromas,
more herbs than grass, 14% ABV, great finish. Twist top. Value for its
body. +694737, $18.95, QPR: 91.
 
======>>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *OVER* $20
 
Daniel Lenko Old Vines Chardonnay 2010 VQA Niagara, American Oak,
+352328, $22.95 retail.
 
TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Yalumba The Y Series Viognier 2012 South Australia: good blowsy
aromatic wine with guts and substance, value priced as well. +624502,
$16.95, QPR: 89.
2. Eidosela Albarino 2011 DO Rias Baixas: least expensive albarino at
the LCBO, 13% ABV, floral, orchard fruit, citric finish. Great summer
wine. +336271, $13.95, QPR: 90.
3. Cheval Quancard Reserve Sauvignon/Semillon 2011 Bordeaux: with 10%
added muscadelle for more aroma, and some aging in new oak, brings it
around to a real "fume blanc" style. 12% ABV. +336842, $14.95, QPR: 90.
4. Domaine de la Gitonniere Touraine 2011: medium-bodied but accessible
in kiwi style of grass and veggies, 12.5% ABV, gold medalist. +168914,
$13.95, QPR: 89.
5. Terredora Loggia Della Serra Greco di Tufo 2011 Campania: some wood,
smoke and stones. Best with a first course with flesh. +983197, $17.95,
QPR: 89.
 
TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Henry of Pelham Family Tree Red 2010 VQA Niagara: delicious fruit,
cork finish but could use a twist top instead. 58% shiraz, 17% cab
sauv, 15% cab franc, 10% merlot. Juicy at 13.5% ABV, for entertainment.
+247882, $18.95, QPR: 89.
2. Fabre Montmayou Gran Reserva Malbec 2010 Mendoza: great integrated
flavours, dark fruit, long length, powerhouse at 15% ABV. Gold medalist
in Argentina. +279802, $19.95, QPR: 89.
3. Chateau Haut-Colombier 2009 Cotes de Bordeaux – Blaye: distinguished
flavours, long finish, 14.5% ABV. Gold medalist. +336891, $17.95, QPR:
89.
4. Chateau Prieure Canteloup 2009 Cotes de Bordeaux: typical MVC,
smooth and lingering. 13.5% ABV. +194415, $18.85, QPR: 89.
5. Boutari Naoussa 2008 Greece: with some aging, this has become great
value for the price. Aged in older French oak barrels. Fruity, and has
been compared to Barbaresco/nebbiolo wines. After five years, the
tannins have resolved to a warm lingering and soft finish. +23218,
$12.95, QPR: 90.
6. Talamonti Tre Saggi Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2008: chocolate tones,
nice aging and character, 13.5% ABV. Old oak of "spices, leather and
tobacco". +204016, $15.95, QPR: 89.
7. Cantine Volpetti Le Piantate 2011 IGT Cesanese Lazio: delicious,
fine velvet leather, black fruit, long length, 13% ABV. +344242,
$15.95, QPR: 89.
8. Argiolas Perdera 2010 Monica di Sardegna: I once dated an Italian
girl named Monica, but other than that, this is a wine with long
length, red and black fruit, a tasty 13.5% ABV. +297556, $17.95, QPR:
89.
9. Cantine Riondo Appassimento 2010 IGT Rosso Veneto: LCBO ripasso
style of the month. +326595, $13.95, QPR: 89.
10. Beronia Reserva 2008 Rioja: warm, inviting juicy model of new style
Rioja, from 40- 60 year old vines. 14% ABV, 90% Tempranillo. +50203,
$18.95, QPR: 90.
 
VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.
 
1. Carabella Dijon 76 Clone Chardonnay 2009 Chehalem Mountains Oregon,
+180133, $27.95 retail.
2. Domaine de la Croix Senaillet Saint-Veran 2010 [organic] +337832,
$22.95.
3. Haha Pinot Noir 2011 Marlborough, +331116, $21.95.
4. Chateau Fortia Cuvee du Baron Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2010, +959999,
$38.95.
5. El Coto de Imaz Gran Reserva 2001 Rioja, +976811, $30.95.

Tuesday, August 13, 2013

Tasting Victorian wines from Oz, July 9/13

The Date and Time: Tuesday, July 9, 2013  2:30 – 5PM

The Event: A tasting of Victorian wines from Australia, emphasizing diversity and innovation.

The Venue: The Miller on Bay

The Target Audience: LCBO buyers, consultants and wine media.

The Availability/Catalogue: Fewer than half the wines are at Vintages, but all are ready for ordering, to be in the system. Agents included Amethyst, Hobbs, Eurovintage, Rogers and Von Terra,

The Quote/Background: Steven Worley, winemaker at The Hairy Arm Company in Northcote, Victoria, led the seminar. There were four flights: alternative whites, chardonnay, alternative reds, and shiraz. Both the shiraz and the chardonnay were the larger flights. When asked, Steven said that Tempranillo would be the next big grape variety from Oz.

The Wines:

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Galli Estate Pamela Chardonnay 2010 Sunbury, $44.95 Amethyst

-Soumah Single Vineyard Chardonnay 2011 Yarra Valley, $29.95 Rogers

-Camelback Single Vineyard Chardonnay 2010 Sunbury, +287839 Vintages, $32.95

-Yabby Lake Chardonnay Mornington 2010, +138628 Vintages $39.95

-Camelback Shiraz Sunbury 2008, +665125 Vintages $27.95

-Tar & Roses Shiraz Heathcote 2010, +282731 $18.60

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (8890 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Fowles Wines Ladies Who Shoot their Lunch Shiraz 2010 +243592 Vintages, $35.95

-Fowles Wines Are You Game? Shiraz 2009 $16.95 at LCBO [value-priced]

-Tar & Roses Pinot Grigio Central Victoria 2011, +282723 Vintages $19.95

-Soumah SV Savarro Savagnin Yarra 2012, $23.95 Rogers

-Soumah Skye Blox Chardonnay Yarra 2012,  $18.95 Rogers

-Soumah Single Vineyard Shiraz Yarra 2010, Rogers $29.95

-Camelback Block Two Shiraz Heathcote 2009, Amethyst $23.95

-Camelback Temp/Gren/Mour Heathcote 2010, +285577, $23.95

-The Trust Shiraz Nagambie 2010, Von Terra $29.95

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (8587 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Soumah Single Vineyard Pinot Grigio Yarra 2013,  $19.95  Rogers

-Tar & Roses Tempranillo Heathcote 2011, +280198 Vintages $20.50

-Tar & Roses Sangiovese Heathcote 2012, Eurovintage $23.95

-Camelback Sangiovese Heathcote 2012, Amethyst $19.95

-Tellurian Tranter Shiraz Heathcote 2010, Hobbs & Co  $36.95

 

The Food: many small plates of apps, including chicken, beef, veggie rolls, arancinis, skewers of vegetables and shrimp.

The Downside: it was the day after the downpour, and we kept checking the skies to see if any water would return.

The Upside: good gathering, lots of fine wine, superb ambience generated by organizer Laura.

The Contact Person: laura@amethystwine.ca

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade):

90.

Friday, August 9, 2013

OTHER FOOD AND DRINK BOOKS

3. GLUTEN IS MY BITCH; rants, recipes and ridiculousness for the
gluten-free (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2013, 208 pages, ISBN 978-1-
61769-030-3, $19.95 US hard covers) is by April Peveteaux, creator of
the blog, http://glutenismybitch.wordpress.com/ ...which she writes
with good humour. The book pretty well summarizes her approach to
gluten, and fills in what you need to know about the blog. If you go
there, then you just need to keep up. So this is a guide to the gluten-
free life, with recipes and how to live with celiac and relatives with
celiac. There are resources lists, with her recommendations. She has
material about restaurants and how to handle them; in fact, the book is
loaded with tips and advice. Good hand holding here. Preparations have
their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are
tables of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: celiacs and those who wish to be gluten-
free.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: coconut macaroons, coffee
shake, Devil's food cake, beef brisket chili pie, coconut oil roasted
chicken and spring veggies.
The downside to this book: needs more recipes, but go to the blog for
these.
The upside to this book: recipes are on blue-tinged papers.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.
 
 
 
4. 200 EASY MEXICAN RECIPES; authentic recipes from burritos to
enchiladas (Robert Rose, 2013, 224 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0436-9,
$24.95 CAN/US soft covers) is by Kelley Cleary Coffeen, a cookbook
author in New Mexico who frequently writes about Mexican-style foods.
This is her fifth cookbook. This is a good collection of basics,
beginning with the Mexican Cuisine Essentials chapter. It lists all the
data you would need for ingredients, toppings, sauces, and definitions.
It is arranged by course, from apps to desserts, with stops along the
way for tacos/burritos/tamales and the Mexican grill. There's even a
chapter on beverages and cocktails. Preparations have their ingredients
listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric
equivalents.
Audience and level of use: Mexican food enthusiasts, beginners at spicy
cuisine.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: enchilada casserole, beef
fajitas, chicken and lime soup, chopped Mexican salad, margarita pie,
grilled shrimp with avocado butter.
Quality/Price Rating: 86.
 

5. THE NEW TRAILSIDE COOKBOOK; 100 delicious recipes for the camp chef
(Firefly Books, 2013, 191 pages, ISBN 978-1-77085-189-4, $19.95 CAN/US
soft covers) is by Kevin Callan and Margaret Howard. He has written
several books on camping, while she has written books on outdoor
grilling and preserving. The 100 preps here are easy, nutritious, and
full of energy. They range from "gorp" (which we make with bitter
chocolate, raisins and almonds, but here -- in this book – references
"good old raisins and peanuts") to gourmet (which needs a bit more
time). Chapters cover all courses, plus dehydrating food,
shopping/packing, camp stoves, cold weather camping, weekend gourmet
and living off the land. There's also a planner for all the work to be
done at home and at camp. There is even a seven day menu plan. Tips and
advice in the form of sidebars provide references to handling bears
(!!), cooking at high altitudes, smoking, storage, ax handling, and one
litre boxed wines. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both
metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of
equivalents.
Audience and level of use: campers, beginner cooks.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: grilled banana oatmeal
pancakes, herb and garlic pasta, peanut butter banana muffins, pesto
avocado dip, polenta appetizer pie, tuna quesadilla, baked veggie loaf.
The downside to this book: the book is portable, but not lightweight;
its pictures needed heavier paper.
The upside to this book: good basic preps.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.
 
 
 
6. I SCREAM SANDWICH! Inspired recipes for the ultimate frozen treat
(Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2013, 178 pages, ISBN 978-1-61769-036-5,
$19.95 US hard covers) is by Jennie Schacht, a California culinary
writer specializing in desserts. Here she produces a specific
ingredient cookbook for 40 sandwich recipes, many gluten-free such as
almond tea cakes, cinnamon macaroons, oatmeal cookies, five-spice
cookies, Vietnamese breakfast sandwiches, et al. The arrangement is by
type, beginning with the classics (key lime ice cream on sugar cookies)
and moving on to fruited dishes (peaches and cream ice cream on oatmeal
cookies), global dishes (dulce de leche ice cream on brown butter
blondies), and holidays and special occasions. There is also a chapter
on swirls, mix-ins, roll-'ems, and coatings. Lots of good ideas here,
including a resources list for equipment and websites of relevant ice
cream blogs. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both
avoirdupois and metric measurements, but there is no table of
equivalents.
Audience and level of use: summer cooks, beginners
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: cherry cheesecake ice cream
on shortcrust cookies; Caribbean banana ice cream on peanut butter
cookies; rosewater ice cream on pistachio-cardamom sandies; jasmine ice
cream on almond tea cakes; Champagne-caramel swirl ice cream on vanilla
cookies in a black-and-white tuxedo.
The downside to this book: the gluten-free aspect could have been
better highlighted.
The upside to this book: there is a series of tables to create your own
sandwiches. Choose an ice cream (or yogurt or sorbet), pick a holder,
and use some optional embellishments.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.
 
 
 
7. CAKE; 100 essential recipes (Spruce, 2013; distr. Canadian Manda
Group, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-84601-420-8, $14.99 US hard covers)
 
and
 
8. CHOCOLATE; 100 essential recipes (Spruce, 2013; distr. Canadian
Manda Group, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-84601-422-2, $14.99 US hard covers)
 
are members of another uniform cookbook series presenting essential
preps. These are the classic cakes (fruity, nutty, coffee, small cakes,
icings) and the classic chocolate (cakes, cookies, bars, puddings).
Something for everyone, hot and cold. Good layout. Preparations have
their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no
table of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: beginner.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: chocolate and chestnut
roulade, chocolate gingersnap mousse, triple choc brulee, rocky roads;
chili and pineapple torte, pear, cardamom an raisin cake; Swiss roll;
truffle cake; lemon drizzle cake.
Quality/Price Rating: 84.
 
 
 
9. PANCAKES; 72 sweet and savory recipes for the perfect stack (St.
Martin's Griffin, 2013; distr. Raincoast, 162 pages, ISBN 978-1-250-
01249-4, $21.99 US paper covers) is by Adrianna Adarme, a food blogger
since 2009 (www.acozykitchen.com). It is a nice collection that meets
her high standards of what a pancake should be – not just a flat oval
or circle. I think the savory ones work very well. She could also have
added more gluten-free incentives. Arrangement is by "breakfast" and
"dinner", with the savories in the latter. There are the basics, with a
generic vegan and gluten-free prep, and a selection of eight toppings.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there is no table of metric equivalents. The index needs to be
fuller: there are few entries under gluten-free, and nothing under
quinoa. There are some good ideas here, as well as excellent food
plating photography.
Audience and level of use: pancake lovers.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: sour cream and chive potato
latkes, German apple popovers, strawberries and cream crepe cake, goat
cheese quinoa cakes.
The downside to this book: there are only two gluten-free recipes, a
generic buttermilk one with rice flour, and an arepa prep using
cornmeal.
The upside to this book: good photos.
Quality/Price Rating: 85.
 
 
 
10. THE FRENCH COOK: sauces (Gibbs Smith, 2013, 128 pages, ISBN 978-1-
4236-3238-2, $21.99 US hard covers) is by Holly Herrick, who is a
Cordon Bleu grad and restaurant critic, living in Charleston, SC. She
has also written a few cookbooks for Gibbs Smith. This is going to be
the first in a new series on French cuisine. And, of course, what
better place to start than with sauces, especially since stocks can be
covered as well. There are photos and step-by-step techniques. The
basic sauces are here (béchamel, veloute, emulsions, brown sauces,
tomato sauces) plus more, and some variations are noted. The book is
set up as a primer for beginners. Preparations have their ingredients
listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is a table of metric
equivalents.
Audience and level of use: beginner
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: sauce cremeuse au poisson;
croquettes de crabe; sauce crème fouettee et mayonnaise au raifort;
poulet roti a la sauce poulette.
The downside to this book: nothing really.
The upside to this book: there are preps for dishes involving some of
the sauces.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.
 

11. THE NO RECIPE COOKBOOK; a beginner's guide to the art of cooking
(Skyhorse Publishing, 2013, 196 pages, ISBN 978-1-62087-616-9, $19.95
US hard covers) is by Susan Crowther, a CIA grad who did catering
before becoming a nutritionist-academic in Vermont. This is a
worthwhile instructional guide on how to cook, without any recipes. It
is all commonsense, focusing on principles, intuition, local
ingredients and safe cooking. There are sections on basics: simple
salad dressings, soup stocks, bread making. You just need to understand
proportions. The best cooks simply have a list of ingredients, and
there are many handbooks (Heering, Saulniere Reperoire) that have been
published for scores of years which only list ingredients. The
proportions must be learned, but you quickly get the hang of it – but
only if you cook a lot. Recipes are useful as aide memoires and for the
quantities. Procedures and processes come with time and experience.
Crowther has a handful of easy cooking time charts and shopping lists,
along with good humourous hand holding. It is, of course, written from
a nutritionist's perspective. Ingredients are listed in avoirdupois
measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: beginning cooks.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: the section on cooking
grains emphasizes ratios, usually one part grain to two parts water for
cooking (but pasta has a higher ratio since water is needed for a
rolling boil and is surplus at the end).
The downside to this book: it could use a sharper editorial focus from
time to time.
The upside to this book: it should give beginners some confidences.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.
 

12. MARITIME FRESH; delectable recipes for preparing preserving and
celebrating local produce. (Nimbus Publishing, 2013, 234 pages, ISBN
978-1-77108-008-8, $27.95 CAN soft covers) is by food critic Elizabeth
Bailey, author of "Maritime Fresh". It's a bit of a misnomer in that
just about everything in the book can be found throughout North
America: it is arranged by produce that is not unique to the Maritimes.
There are no fiddlehead recipes here (or at least, fiddleheads are not
indexed.). There is a halibut recipe, but "halibut" is not indexed.
There's a rumtopf recipe, but neither "rumtopf" nor "rum" is indexed.
What is indexed can be strange: there are 50 or so references to "herb
salt" and almost as many for "vegetable stock". But no rum, no halibut.
There is a listing of seasonal availability and places in the Maritimes
to find produce. Produce includes apples, asparagus, beans, beets,
through carrots, eggplants, mushrooms, down to plums, potatoes,
rhubarb, and winter squash – 33 veggies and fruits in all. There is
some meat (chickens, pork, fish, beef) but otherwise it is mostly
vegetarian. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois
measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: beginners
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: garlic cauliflower pasta,
maple apple pork, asparagus tofu curry, green bean casserole, stuffed
squash, sun-dried tomato pesto.
The downside to this book: the index is variable.
The upside to this book: there are a few meat dishes.
Quality/Price Rating: 83.
 
 
 
13. BACON NATION; 125 irresistible recipes (Workman Publishing, 2013;
distr. T. Allen, 310 pages, ISBN 978-0-7611-6582-8, $14.95 US paper
covers) is by Peter Kaminsky and Marie Rama. It is this year's bacon
book (there is usually one every year). Kaminsky has written other pork
books, and Rama has written s few Dummies books (e.g. Grilling). Here
the emphasis is on the smoke flavours of bacon, so the material covers
soups, soufflés, braises, and bread puddings. Americans seem to eat
about $2 billion worth of bacon a year. The chapters are arranged by
course, starters to sweets, complete with a resources listing of places
to buy really good bacon in the US. Each source (and bacon) is
different, so you'll need a variety of meats to absolutely perfect the
recipe used. The apps section here is particularly good. Preparations
have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is
a table of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: bacon lovers and others.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: spiced nuts with bacon,
bacon swizzle stick, bacon cheese straws, crispy polenta bites, bacon
jam, caponata, chipotle meatballs.
The downside to this book: not enough recipes for me, but OK in terms
of the price.
The upside to this book: good tips and sidebars.
Quality/Price Rating: 90.
 
 
 

14. SOUTH AMERICAN GRILL (Hardie Grant Books, 2012; distr. Random House
of Canada, 207 pages, ISBN 978-1-74270-300-8, $24.95 US hard covers) is
by Rachel Lane, an Australian cook book and travel writer. Here are
more than 80 recipes concentrating on Latin American grillwork,
particularly the asados and churrascos of Argentina and Brazil. The
book is arranged by course, from apps to mains to sides to desserts and
drinks. Typical dishes also include Peruvian ceviche, Argentine baked
empanadas, arepas de queso, grilled haloumi skewers, Brazilian fish
skewers, and humitas. There are activity menus (lazy summer afternoons,
family gatherings, Friday nights with your mates, etc.) where details
and planning are laid out in a time line.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in mostly metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: intermediate cooks, grillers and BBQ fans.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: cancha, grilled kidney
skewers, grilled chicken hearts, Brazilian coconut baked custard cake,
roasted cinnamon bananas with mango sorbet, pisco sours, Uruguayan
white wine sangria.
The downside to this book: nothing really.
The upside to this book: Spanish and Portuguese names for all dishes.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.
 
 

Thursday, August 8, 2013

DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH!

* DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH! *
  ++++++++++++++++++++++
 
1. CRAFT BEER WORLD; a guide to over 350 of the finest beers known to
man (Dog 'n' Bone/Cico/Ryland Peters & Small, 2013, 208 pages, ISBN
978-0-957140-99-8, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Mark Dredge, a beer
writer (www.pencilandspoon.com since 2008) and beer worker (Camden Town
Brewery in London UK). It is arranged by over 50 beer styles (pilsner,
bock, IPA, alt, wit, Belgian, fruit, etc.) with a beginning primer,
glossary, and food service. The range, from the first page to the last,
is usually by heaviness. Pilsner is up first, last is stout and porter.
Concluding chapters deal with the esoterics such as barrel-aged beers,
extreme beer, and blockbuster beers. This is a good arrangement, for it
gets away from a geographic contents listing. The index covers all the
countries, so that is an alternative point of entry. Canada has about
eight different styles represented here. It is all illustrated by
labels or bottle shots, and there are plenty of tidbits along the way.
Each entry has a name, location, ABV, a hopping statement, and some
extensive tasting notes. It is fascinating to plow through the Belgian
chapters and view the dubbel, tripel and quadrupel beers. In a chapter
covering special ingredients, there is Brasseurs San Gluten from
Montreal, making four beers from millet, buckwheat, corn and quinoa. At
the end, there is a list of resources, both books and websites, for
further information.
Audience and level of use: beer junkies
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: pairing beer and food is a
matter of balance, such as having a chocolatey-milky brew with chili
heat. Or boosting flavours. Or with local foods. It takes skill, more
than with wine.
The downside to this book: I'd like more beers covered, maybe 600?
The upside to this book: good descriptions make this book a great
companion.
Quality/Price Rating: 90.
 

Tuesday, August 6, 2013

* THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...

...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback
reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher
a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will
reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will
rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text
while keeping the focus tight. Some magazines will reissue popular or
classic recipes in an "easy" format. Here are some recent "re-
editions"...

22. FEAR OF FOOD; a history of why we worry about what we eat
(University of Chicago Press, 2012, 2013, 218 pages, ISBN 978-0-226-
05490-2, $15 US soft covers) is by Harvey Levenstein, a professor
emeritus of history at McMaster University in Hamilton, Ontario. He has
published a number of books about American social food history, such as
"Revolution at the Table" and "Paradox of Plenty". This time out he
describes the US as a "nation gripped by gustatory paranoia": problems
with eggs (raw? cholesterol? allergies?), wine (good? bad?), death by
pesticides and/or additives and/or processed foods? Read all about it
here, with a spillover to fears in Canada. A lot of the book deals with
single products, such as eggs and milk, red meat, bacteria, and more.
Early scientists warned about deadly microbes, followed by later
researchers who say that processing food to get rid of microbes robs
the food of vitamins and minerals. It is a see-saw battle, antagonized
by Big Foody who prey on people's fears by marketing their "food" to
play into the fear of the day. There are also details on eating
disorders, , diet, food preferences, and food phobias. It is a great
history (loaded with end note references), well worth a read!
Quality/price rating: 91.

23. THE APPETIZER COLLECTION (Transcontinental Books, 2013; distr.
Random House Canada, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0-9877474-4-0, $26.95 CAN soft
covers) is by the Canadian Living Test Kitchen. The kitchen has been
working its way through the family meal course by course over the
years, and this time "appetizers" come up. Actually, the book is being
pitched as party food preps, presumably because many family dinners are
really just a main course with sides and desserts. But apps make the
perfect upscale family dinner, entertainment for guests at a formal
dinner, and are magnificent when folded over into lunches (either
cooked as original or used as leftovers). The seven chapters here deal
with appetizer party planning, dips and spreads, hot apps, cold apps,
savoury pastries, tiny sandwiches, and snacks that go with drinks. As
the book says, there is something for everyone here: the mix-and-match
aspect gives you plenty of cooking/entertaining options. But watch out
for the lamb lollipop prep: the meat will cost you an arm and a leg.
About 200 recipes with variations. Preparations have their ingredients
listed in avoirdupois measurements (with some metric weights), but
there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.

24. EASY ITALIAN; 30 classic recipes (Weldon Owen, 2013; distr. Simon &
Schuster, 116 pages, ISBN 978-1-61628-496-1, $16.95 US soft covers)
and
25. EASY MEXICAN; 37 classic recipes (Weldon Owen, 2013; distr. Simon &
Schuster, 116 pages, ISBN 978-1-61628-497-8, $16.95 US soft covers)
are both from Saveur magazine. They are classy presentations, with many
photos, and suitable as affordable hostess gifts. Each has the basic
food (pesto focaccia, minestrone, linguine with clams, eggplant
parmesan, shrimp ceviche, tomatillo salsa, Mexican scrambled eggs,
chicken and chile enchiladas, Mexican rice) with photos. There are also
guide to Mexican dried chiles in the one book, Italian/Mexican
pantries, Italian wines, and Mexican wines (and mezcal but no beers).
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there is a table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85.

26. VEGETABLES; a biography (University of Chicago Press, 2012, 112
pages, ISBN 978-0-226-05995-2, $15 US soft covers) is by Evelyne Bloch-
Dano, who has written many diverse books. It was originally published
in France in 2008. The book is slim, and marred even further by the
lack of an index (although it does have a bibliography and enough blank
pages [for an index] at the end). It's sort of a condensed version of
the Reaktion series of food books, covering 11 veggies (including
parsnips, beans, cabbage, peas, pumpkins, and even tomatoes which are
botanically "fruits") with a handful of short preps such as a Sicilian
tomato sauce (strattu), a vegetable tagine, a puree of root vegetables,
and Alexandre Dumas' asperges en petit pois. An engaging little book,
but at this price, maybe one to borrow from the public library.
Quality/price rating: 85.
27. EASY INDIAN COOKING. 2d ed. (Robert Rose, 2004, 2013, 240 pages,
ISBN 978-0-7788-0450-5, $19.95 CAN and US soft covers) is by Suneeta
Vaswani. She has taught Indian cooking in the US and other places for
over 30 years, but has just moved back to Mumbai where she was born.
This second edition has a new Chaat and Street Foods section. Flavours
abound but does ease, which makes the book n=beneficial to the home
cook willing to try out Indian cuisine. Many cookbook s don't make it
to another edition, so it says something that this one is not only back
in print but there are newer recipes. The total here is 140, and is
mostly comprised of the classics from north and south India. There are
notes on a pantry and on condiments (sauces and chutneys), as well as
sweets and beverages. Many street food items can serve as apps. There's
yellow lentil soup with veggies (toor dal), scrambled eggs (akoori),
caramelized carrot pudding (gajar ka halwa), and Indian style
ratatouille with five spices (panch phoran tarkari). Preparations have
their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements,
but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 89.

28. GUY GOURMET; great chefs' amazing meals for a lean & healthy body
(Rodale, 2013, 320 pages, ISBN 978-1-60961-979-4, $24.99 US hard
covers) has been edited by Adina Steiman and Paul Kita, with the
editors of Men's Health magazine. There are about 150 recipes here,
from Rick Bayless, Thomas Keller, Anita Lo, Masaharu Morimoto, Marcus
Samuelsson, and others. It's based on the coverage in the magazine, and
is directed to males. So there are brunches and breakfasts here, as
well as fast weeknight dinners, snacks and big-batch food for crowds.
There are also chapters on BBQ and grill, camp cookery, intimate
dinners for "date night", and man-sized celebrations such as trash can
turkey, Guinness-braised short ribs, and cheese platters. Drinks are
also included, but they are all cocktails and beers. Wine is basically,
how to pour champagne. There are "masterclasses" for the standard prep,
such as meatballs, kebabs, chili, dips, ice cream sauces, and chicken
soup. It is all healthy enough food, but it is still a little light on
veggies. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois
measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 88.
29. WEIGHTWATCHERS 50th ANNIVERSARY COOKBOOK (St. Martins Griffin, 2013,
335 pages, ISBN 978-1-250-03640-7, $29.99 US hard covers) is from WWI
and is mainly derived from the magazine, although many of the preps in
this book come from "Greatest Hits", which has been around since 2002
and last appeared as the 40th anniversary cookbook (with 250 recipes).
Here, there has been the usual updating with new nutrition values plus
another 30 recipes, to be at 280 preps in all. If you have the 40th
book, then you may safely pass up this one – unless you want the latest
tips and the newest PointsPlus values. All courses are covered, from
breakfasts through lunches, entrees, meatless, Italian faves, side
dishes, and desserts. Very useful if you don't have the earlier
edition. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois
measurements, but there is a table of metric equivalents. Quality/price
rating: 87.

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