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Wednesday, November 20, 2019

Wines You Should Try

--WINES YOU SHOULD TRY; a guide for Canadians (Whitecap, 2019, 204 pages, $22.95 paperbound)  largely supersedes the ninth annual edition (2016) of   "The 500 Best-Value Wines In the LCBO 2017".  This new work by wine scribe Rod Phillips is now national, and has both international and domestic wines arranged by wine colour and then by region/country with an indication of a price range (under $12  to  over $49). He tasted about 1000 wines, and chose about 500 wines that are available in at least two provinces.  Each of the wines has some value, or else they would not be in this tool: they can be considered at least "better" if not "best" of what's around in Canada. Each  has an indication of food pairings. A good guidebook which features only those wines available in Canada -- that you should try.
 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Monday, November 18, 2019

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for NOVEMBER 23, 2019

 
WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES:  under/over $20 for NOVEMBER 23, 2019
 
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at http://www.deantudor.com since 1994.
 
These notes for good wines available through  LCBO Vintages (on a bi-weekly basis)  can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca  or at  http://www.deantudor.com No winery can buy their way into – or out of – this publication.
 
Scores are a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, e.g. a Southern Rhone would taste like a Southern Rhone) and QPR (Quality/Price Ratio value in the marketplace above or below its price).
 
NOTE: The first portion  is based on my sampling of the table wines chosen by the LCBO from this release for tasting. That presentation is about 50+  different labels out of about 125 released every two weeks. These wines are basically those that fit the categories of  any of the Featured Themes, Wines of the Month, Local Talent, and "new" -- wines that the LCBO has ordered in sufficient quantities for the Ontario marketplace. Not put out for us are the re-orders (even though they may be of a different vintage) , ISDs, or the expensive wines.  Thus, my report comes from a restricted database. I did not taste every one of these 50+ category wines, nor did I rate several of the wines I did sample because they did not seem to be of particularly good value in terms of their price.
 
NOTE: The second part (at the end) is a simple listing of  those wines that were NOT presented to the media, and are given here simply as a record of  what sampling I could not do. I have left in the name of the agency, in fairness to all.
 
PART ONE:  The "best" wines of a reduced tasting  --
 
THIS MONTH'S SPECIAL FINDS --
 
Fortified+70193 BLANDY'S 5-YEAR-OLD MALMSEY RICH MADEIRA DOC $31.95 QPR: 93
Fizz+438994    KEW BARREL AGED BLANC DE BLANC    Traditional method, VQA Niagara Peninsula     2011    $29.95 MVC/QPR: 92
 
Under $20
=========
W+144386    SOHO WHITE COLLECTION SAUVIGNON BLANC    Marlborough, South Island    2018    $19.95 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
W+259788    JOSEPH CATTIN RIESLING    AC Alsace    2017    $14.95     12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR:  90
W+156943    DOMAINE DE ROCHEBIN CHARDONNAY MÂCON-AZÉ    AC    2017    $17.95 12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
W+147975    GÉRARD BERTRAND RÉSERVE SPÉCIALE VIOGNIER    IGP Pays d'Oc    2017    $14.95    13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 92
W+65086    FRESCOBALDI CASTELLO DI POMINO POMINO BIANCO    DOC    2017    $19.95 12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
W+11138    CA' D'OR BIANCO PAGUS SOAVE CLASSICO    DOC    2017    $17.95    12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
W+488981    FOLLAS NOVAS ALBARIÑO    DO Rías Baixas    2018    $17.95    13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+R+606764    ARBOLEDA SINGLE VINEYARD CABERNET SAUVIGNON    DO Aconcagua Valley    2017    $19.95 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
W+18721    VIÑA TARAPACÁ GRAN RESERVA CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Maipo Valley    2017    $17.95 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+15495    3 RINGS SHIRAZ    Barossa Valley, South Australia    2016    $17.95    14.9% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+343517    TESSELLAE OLD VINES GRENACHE/SYRAH/MOURVÈDRE    AP Côtes du Roussillon    2017    $18.95  14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 91
R+10676    SIERRA NORTE EQUILIBRIO 9 MONASTRELL    DOP Jumilla    2016    $15.95 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 92
R+276030    MURIEL FINCAS DE LA VILLA RESERVA    DOCa Rioja    2014    $19.95 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 92
R+11195    COLINAS DE ANÇÃ BAGA RESERVA    DOC Bairrada    2014    $16.95     13.5%ABV, MVC/QPR: 91
R+11152    COUTADA VELHA SIGNATURE RED    Vingo Regional Alentejano    2017    $15.95    13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+40964    CHÂTEAU DE NAGES VIEILLES VIGNES COSTIÈRES DE NÎMES    AP    2016    $19.95 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
 
Over $20
+=========
W+184549    LE CLOS JORDANNE LE GRAND CLOS CHARDONNAY    VQA Niagara Peninsula    2017    $44.95     MVC/QPR: 92
W+208694    BURROWING OWL ESTATE BOTTLED CHARDONNAY    BC VQA Okanagan Valley    2017    $33.95  13.9% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
W+346304    GRGICH HILLS ESTATE GROWN CHARDONNAY    Napa Valley    2014    $67.95  MVC/QPR: 93
W+677450    DOG POINT SAUVIGNON BLANC    Marlborough, South Island    2018    $26.95 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+13421    HENRY OF PELHAM BIN 106 BACO NOIR    30th anniversary limited edition, VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara Escarpment    2018    $29.95    13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 92
R+505610    HIDDEN BENCH TERROIR CACHÉ    Unfiltered, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment    2016    $44.95 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+184564    LE CLOS JORDANNE LE GRAND CLOS PINOT NOIR    VQA Niagara Peninsula    2017    $44.95    12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+392738    QUEYLUS TRADITION PINOT NOIR    VQA Niagara Peninsula    2016    $31.95 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+312058    STRATUS RED    VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake    2016    $49.20    13.3% ABV,  MVC/QPR:  89
R+320986    THIRTY BENCH WINEMAKER'S BLEND RED    VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment    2017    $24.95 13.3% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+11819    JACKSON-TRIGGS OKANAGAN GRAND RESERVE RED MERITAGE    BC VQA Okanagan Valley    2016    $25.95     13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 92
R+143784    SUMAC RIDGE BLACK SAGE VINEYARD CABERNET SAUVIGNON    BC VQA Okanagan Valley    2017    $28.95 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+906404    LA CREMA RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY PINOT NOIR    Russian River Valley, Sonoma County    2015    $49.95    14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+466938    UNÁNIME GRAN VINO TINTO    Uco Valley, Mendoza    2015    $29.95    14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+129353    THE CHOCOLATE BLOCK    WO Swartland    2017    $39.95    14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+167700    ARDAL SELECCIÓN ESPECIAL RESERVA    DO Ribera del Duero    2006    $23.95 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89.5
R+261784    PAPALE LINEA ORO PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIA    DOP    2015    $22.95 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+63891    EMILIANA COYAM    Los Robles Estate, Colchagua Valley    2016    $29.95    14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+568774    QUINTA DO SAGRADO RESERVA    DOC Douro    2016    $29.95    14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
 
PART TWO: The "rest" of the release [not offered for sampling by media] with agency names --
 
294041    2027 FALLS VINEYARD RIESLING    VQA Vinemount Ridge, Niagara Peninsula    2017    $18.95    2027 CELLARS LTD.   
578625    FLAT ROCK NADJA'S VINEYARD RIESLING    VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Escarpment    2018    $24.95    FLAT ROCK CELLARS   
581231    TZAFONA CELLARS NAVA BLANC KPM    VQA Ontario    2016    $19.95    NORTHERN WINE CORP   
485276    TZAFONA CELLARS COLD CLIMATE UNOAKED CHARDONNAY KP    Vegan friendly, VQA Niagara Peninsula    2015    $22.95    TRAJECTORY BEVERAGE PARTNERS   
566026    CAVE SPRING CSV RIESLING    Cave Spring Vineyard, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment    2016    $29.95    CAVE SPRING CELLARS LTD.,   
469023    CUDDY BY TAWSE CHARDONNAY    VQA Niagara Peninsula    2014    $25.95    TAWSE WINERY INC.   
94375    DUCKHORN SAUVIGNON BLANC    Napa Valley    2017    $37.95    ROGERS & COMPANY   
288555    WILLIAM HILL NORTH COAST CHARDONNAY    North Coast    2017    $19.95    E&J GALLO WINERY CANADA LTD.   
125310    NORMAN HARDIE COUNTY UNFILTERED PINOT NOIR    VQA Prince Edward County    2017    $45.20    HARDIE WINES   
284570    TAWSE GROWER'S BLEND CABERNET FRANC    VQA Niagara Peninsula    2015    $28.95    TAWSE WINERY INC.   
246918    J. LOHR CAROL'S VINEYARD CABERNET SAUVIGNON    St. Helena, Napa Valley    2014    $89.95    BARRIQUE WINE IMPORTS LTD.   
723478    ZUCCARDI Q MALBEC    Uco Valley, Mendoza    2016    $19.95    DIONYSUS WINES & SPIRITS LTD.   
166298    LA POSTA PIZZELLA MALBEC    Mendoza    2017    $15.95    TRIALTO WINE GROUP LTD.   
256685    MONTES LIMITED SELECTION CARMENÈRE    DO Colchagua Valley    2016    $14.95    VIN VINO WINE MERCHANTS INC.   
546424    ERRAZURIZ ACONCAGUA ALTO CARMENÈRE    DO Valle de Aconcagua    2017    $21.95    PHILIPPE DANDURAND WINES LTD.   
357475    DANDELION VINEYARDS LIONESS OF MCLAREN VALE SHIRAZ    McLaren Vale, South Australia    2017    $20.95    DU CHASSE WINES & SPIRITS   
684753    PORCA DE MURÇA RESERVA TINTO    DOC Douro    2014    $17.95    H.H.D. IMPORTS   
371518    BORSAO BEROLA    DO Campo de Borja    2015    $18.95    CHARTON HOBBS INC   
927    SOMMAVITE SANTOVINO VINO LIQUOROSO    Italy        $10.95    RUBAIYAT WINE AND SPIRIT MERCH.   
437319    ROSEWOOD MEAD ROYALE HONEY WINE    Barrel aged, Canada    2017    $19.95    CHURCHILL CELLARS LTD.   
709717    CAKEBREAD CELLARS CHARDONNAY    Napa Valley    2017    $69.95    CHARTON HOBBS INC   
21303    CAVE DE TURCKHEIM BRAND RIESLING    AC Alsace Grand Cru    2013    $38.95    NOBLE ESTATES WINES & SPIRITS INC.   
10468    STAGS' LEAP THE INVESTOR RED BLEND    Napa Valley    2015    $64.95    MARK ANTHONY WINE & SPIRITS   
11166    YOUNGBERG HILL J BLOCK PINOT NOIR    Willamette Valley    2016    $67.95    LOYAL IMPORTS   
309625    PENFOLDS BIN 389 CABERNET/SHIRAZ    South Australia    2017    $99.95    MARK ANTHONY WINE & SPIRITS   
11082    AURORE DEZAT SANCERRE ROUGE    AC Sancerre    2016    $31.95    TOCADE   
466110    DOMAIN MEGA SPILEO GRAND CAVE DRY RED    PGI Achaia    2013    $29.95    THE KOLONAKI GROUP INC   
568857    JOÃO BRITO E CUNHA QUINTA DE S. JOSÉ TOURIGA NACIONAL    DOC Douro    2016    $39.95    NATURAL VINES   
368373    VIÑA ARANA RESERVA    DOCa Rioja    2011    $49.95    JOHN HANNA & SONS LIMITED   
10493    CELESTE RESERVA    DO Ribera del Duero    2014    $34.95    PHILIPPE DANDURAND WINES LTD.   
10901    TORO ALBALÁ DON PX    DO Montilla-Moriles    2017    $21.95    LE SOMMELIER INC.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Saturday, November 16, 2019

The November 5 Event: Wines of Chile: Love Wine, Love Chile – trade show

The Date and Time: Tuesday November 5, 2019  12PM  - 5PM
The Event: Wines of Chile: Love Wine, Love Chile – trade show
The Venue: ROM
The Target Audience: wine trade and media
The Availability/Catalogue: large-sized bold print, spiral-bound, name of contact and Ontario sales agent, space for notes, arranged alphabetically. First rate production.
The Quote/Background: Signs were on the table with page numbers, very convenient. Some live music was playing but it was hard to hear above it – at that end of the room.
The Wines: I did not try all the wines, focusing on whites and higher-end reds.
 
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Casas del Bosque Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo 2017 $21.95 +353086
-Cono Sur Sparkling Rose Bio Bio $13.95  +365205
-Cono Sur Buculeta Viognier $11.50  +64287
-Emiliana Sparkling TM Organic Casablanca $19.95  +536607
-Emiliana Ge Red Organic Colchagua 2015  $79.95 www.emilana.bio
-Errazuriz Aconcagua Costa Sauvignon Blanc $19.95  +462614
-Errazuriz Aconcagua Don Maximiano $89.95  +501247
-Montes Alpha Chardonnay Casablanca 2017 $19.95   Profile
-Vina Santa Alicia Millantu 2017 Maipo $24.95  +469288
-Vina Santa Carolina Herencia 2012 Peumo $69.95  Charton Hobbs
-Vina Santa Ema Gran Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2018 Leyda $17.95  +443507
-Vina Santa Ema Gran Reserva Chardonnay 2018 Leyda $17.95  +542365
-Vina Siegel Ketran 2014 Colchagua $99   Sylvestre
-Vina Siegel Unique Selection 2015 Colchagua $41.95  Sylvestre
-Vina Siegel Gran Reserva Viognier 2015 Colchagua $17.95  Sylvestre
-Valdivieso Caballo Loco Grand Cru Maipo 2015 $53.99  Wine Lovers Agency
-Vina Ventisquero Enclave Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Maipo $69.95   Univins
-Vinedos Veramonte Neyen de Apalta 2015 $60  +255976
-Hacienda Araucano Lurton Hamo Blanco 2019 Sauvignon Blanc Colchagua Lolol $19.95  Trajectory Beverage Partners
-Hacienda Araucano Lurton Clos de Lolol White Blend 2018 Colchagua Lolol $29.95  Trajectory Beverage Partners
-Vina I Wines Qu Chardonnay Curico 2018  $16.95
 
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Longavi Glup Chenin Blanc Marchique 2019  $24.95  The Case for Wine
-Montes Purple Angel 2017 Colchagua/Apalta $62.95 +62364
-Valdivieso Eclat Vigno Maule 2010 $33.99  Wine Lovers Agency
-Valdivieso Caballo Loco Grand Cru Limari Syrah 2015 $53.99  Wine Lovers Agency
-Valdivieso Caballo Loco Grand Cru Apalta Santa Cruz 2015 $53.99  Wine Lovers Agency
-Valdivieso Extra Brut TM Bio Bio/Itata $23.99  Wine Lovers Agency
-Vina Siegel Single Vineyard Carmenere 2015 Colchagua $25.95  Sylvestre
-Morande Adventure Vigno Old Vines Maule 2017 $26.95  +638445
-Morande Brut K.O. NV Maule/Casablanca $19.95  www.morande.cl
-Perez Cruz Rose Lingal 2019 Maipo Andes  Charton Hobbs
-Vina San Esteban In Situ Reserva Chardonnay 2018 Aconagua $14.95  +10765
-Vina San Esteban Laguna del Inca 2017 Aconagua $27.95 MCO 
-Montes Alpha Special Cuvee Cabernet Sauvignon Colchagua 2017 $24.95   Profile
-Aresti Family Collection Assemblage 2015 $39.95 L'Excellent Wines
-Calcu Winemaker's Selection 2014 Colchagua $35  Don Ackerman's W&S
-Vina Casa Silva Cool Coast Sauvignon Gris 2019 Colchagua $23.99  The Case for Wine
-Vina Casa Silva Quinta Generacion Red 2016 Colchagua $29.99  The Case for Wine
-Clos de Luz Massal 1945 Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 Rapel $21.95 +12675
-Cono Sur Organic Chardonnay 2018 $13.95  +230565
-Errazuriz Aconcagua Costa Chardonnay $19.95  P Dandurand
-Vina Las Ninas Mitica Red Blend 2017 Apalta $29.95  United Stars
-Vina Las Ninas Ella Chardonnay Organic 2017 Apalta $16.95  United Stars
-Montgras Amaral Sauvignon Blanc Leyda 2018 $16.95  Epic Wines and Spirits
-Montgras Antu Limited Syrah Leyda 2013 $24.95  Epic Wines and Spirits
 
The Food: two sets – baby empanadas with beef or chicken or cheese (the moist chicken was best) and the usual Daniel et Daniel charcuterie platters with smoked duck breast, meats, cheeses, pates, and the famous artichoke/parmesan dip.
The Downside: music was so loud that I had to shout at contacts (and they back at me) in over half the room at that end.
The Upside: a chance to taste some high end wines from Chile.
The Contact Person: lisa@androscom.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 86

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Thursday, November 14, 2019

The October 21 Event: Tre Amici Wines: Veni, Vidi, Vino III, third portfolio tasting

6.The Date and Time: Monday, October 21, 2019  1PM to 5PM
The Event: Tre Amici Wines: Veni, Vidi, Vino III, third potfolio tasting.
The Venue: Palais Royale
The Target Audience: customers, sommeliers, wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available through the agency.
The Quote/Background: The tasting included wines from the Vertical Wine Group (www.verticalwinegroup.com).
The Wines: I did not try all the wines, nor did I try any spirits. Prices for the most part seemed to be licensee.
 
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Villa Pillo Borgoforte 2016 Tuscany $18.95
-Villa Pillo Cingalino 2017 Tuscany $15.95
-Chateau Roubine Provence La Vie En Rose Brut Rose
-Collard-Picard Champagne Selection Brut Blanc de Noir $75
-Collard-Picard Champagne Cuvee Prestige Brut $87
-Collard-Picard Champagne Essentiel Brut 2010 $190
-Patrocinio Tempranillo Reserva 2012 Rioja $44.95
-Plan B The King Chardonnay 2015 Margaret River $27.95
-Plan B CV Chardonnay/Viognier 2016 Margaret River $24.50
-Fontanassa Gavi del Comune di Gavi 2017 Piemonte $32.50
-Fontanassa Gavi del Comune di Gavi "Citu" 2015 Piemonte $51.95
-Salvano Barbaresco Riserva 2012 $102
-Salvano Barolo Riserva 2011 $117
-Antonutti Traminer Aromatico 2018 $25.50
-Castelfeder Chardonnay "Doss" 2017 Alto Adige $29.50
-Punti Ferrer Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2017 Cachapoal Chile $19.50
-Punti Ferrer Gran Reserva Chardonnay 2016 Cachapoal Chile $20.95
-Vina Amalia Signature Petit Verdot 2011 Mendoza $83.95
-Misty Cove Landmark Series Riesling 2019 $27
-Misty Cove Landmark Series Sauvignon Gris 2019 $27
-San Martino Undici Prosecco Extra Dry $19.95
-San Martino Millesimato Dry $19.95
 
 
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Casalbosco Dorato Chardonnay IGT Toscana 2017 $24.95
-Lodi Wine Company Chardonnay 2018 Lodi $18.50
-Vinihold Portinho di Covo White Blend Peninsula de Setrubal $12.95
-Vina Amalia Sauvignon Blanc Dos Fincas 2017 Mendoza $19.95
-Vina Amalia Torrontes Dos Fincas 2018 Mendoza $19.95
-Vina Amalia Malbec Dos Fincas Brut Mendoza $21.95
-Vina Amalia Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2013 Mendoza $27.50
-Misty Cove Estate Series Marlborough Pinot Gris 2019 $24.50
-Misty Cove Estate Series Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2019 $21
-Oak Ridge Winery Blazon Chardonnay Lodi 2017 $25.50
-Oak Ridge Winery Gnarled Vine Chardonnay Lodi 2018 $21.95
-Villa Pillo Sant'adele Merlot 2017 Tuscany $44.50
-Patrocinio Zinio Viura & Tempranillo Blanco 2018 Rioja
-Patrocinio Garnacha 2016 Rioja $19.50
-Patrocinio Vendimia Seleccionada Tempranillo 2014 Rioja $27.50
-Plan B OD Riesling 2017 Margaret River $24.95
-Plan B DR Riesling 2017 Margaret River $23.95
-Fontanassa Gavi "Ca Adua" 2018 Piemonte $25.50
-Castelfeder Pinot Bianco "Vom Stein" 2017 Alto Adige $27.45
-Castelfeder Sauvignon Blanc "Raif" 2017 Alto Adige $34.50
-Julius Treis Riesling Alte Reben Trocken 2017 Mosel
-Valle Secreto Sauvignon Blanc "First Edition" 2017 Cachapoal Chile $20.95
-Punti Ferrer Chardonnay 2018 Cachapoal Chile $14.50
-Punti Ferrer Sauvignon Blanc 2018 Cachapoal Chile $14.50
-Punti Ferrer Gran Reserva Malbec 2017 Cachapoal Chile $20.95
 
The Food: The Food Studio Catering provided us with charcuterie and salumi platters, international cheeses, peppers, dips, breads, etc.
The Downside: I had to leave early so I could pack for my trip to Wolfville and the Devour Food Film Festival.
The Upside: Palais Royale was easy to get to.
The Contact Person: r.f.sferrazza@gmail.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 90.
 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Monday, November 11, 2019

SOME NEW BEVERAGE SAMPLES SENT TO ME FOR TASTING THIS MONTH –

SOME NEW BEVERAGE SAMPLES SENT TO ME FOR TASTING THIS MONTH –
 
1.Best's Great Western Shiraz 2017 Bin 1 Victoria, +222323 Vintages, $21.95: very ripe and juicy at this point, with a longer than expected finish. 13.5% ABV is not hot at all. Typical black fruit of shiraz but also with some herbs and mint. It is a keeper for the next few years. Twist top. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
2.Gerard Bertrand Terroir Fitou 2017 $16.95 +403683 Vintages November: Bertrand continues to advance the Terroir series (and the Grand Terroir series) with more localized vineyards. Here it is Fitou, with its grenache and carignan grapes, vinified separately. The carignan has carbonic maceration for two weeks; the grenache is done in traditional style. Some of the wine is barrel aged for a year. Everything here seems to be concentrated in aromas and flavours, red fruit and undergrowth dominating. 14% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
3.Gerard Bertrand Reserve Speciale Viognier 2018 IGP Pays d'Oc, +147975, $14.95 Vintages Nov 2019: aromatic but on the dry side, perfect as a social wine or for first course. Expect peachy and orange character, but of course no oak. Youthful and useful with nuances of orchard fruit and spicy nuts. No malolactic fermentation. Could go either way with or without food, hence versatile. 13.5% ABV, cork closure. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
 
4.Henry of Pelham Cabernet-Merlot Estate 2015 VQA Short Hills Bench, +395855 Vintages, $24.95: both cabernets franc (4%) and sauvignon (50%) are used in this Bordeaux-styled blend (46% merlot) which comes across as a mid-Atlantic version of Cali/Bordeaux New World and Old World. It is still in its youth at 4 years of age, and it would be a shame to consume it this young. You could do what I did: open it and drink it over a couple of weeks, exposing it to air gently or speeding up the process by double-triple decanting. You will get several different wines out of one bottle over the course of time. Extended maceration in stainless, followed by French and US oak (40% new) for 18 months. Currently, you could match it with heavy meats. 13.5% ABV on label. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
5.The Audacity of Thomas G. Bright Chardonnay Sussreserve 2017 VQA Niagara Peninsula +11565 LCBO $16.95: Arterra has unleashed a series in respectful memory of the work of its founder the indefatigable Thomas G. Bright. He brought over Euro grapes to grow in Ontario in the late 19th century. Some perished but others survived. I remember drinking "Pinot Chardonnay" from Bright's  in the late 1950s. This version from 2017 has been aged in French oak for eight months, then after MF it spent a year on lees. Some unfermented grape juice was added back into the wine before bottling. This brings it up against California chardonnay. RS is now 10g/L but the acidity level means that it can also be used with food, in addition to being a sipper at patios or stand-up events. 14% ABV, cork finish. Best with dairy and fatty foods (cream sauces, cheeses, buttered popcorn, avocado).  Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
 
6.The Audacity of Thomas G. Bright Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon Whisky-Barrel Finish 2017 VQA Niagara Peninsula +11564 LCBO $16.95: another Arterra salute to founder Thomas G. Bright. And this wine certainly is bright as a full-bodied red blend in the definite Cali style, mostly merlot. Aged in US oak for 8 months, finished in whisky barrels for 5 months for that smooth finish. Black fruit dominates through the over-the-top cassis tones, but it is countered with spices and smoke elements. Hearty foods are suggested (stews from lamb or beef, meaty pastas, BBQ). 14.5% ABV and RS 5 g/L (the latter well-under some leading Cali brands). Quality/Price rating is 88.5 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
7.Henry of Pelham Bin 106 Baco Noir 30th Vintage Limited Edition 2018 VQA Ontario, $29.95, +13421: these vines were planted in 1984 by the Three Speck Brothers, and this is the 30th vintage for many of the grapes (and maybe the Brothers too). These grapes survived the cut, and represent the very best barrels. Kudos on the effort! Low yields on 3.5 tonnes per acre, gravity movement, destemming, etc. Aged in new and one year old US barriques for a year. Single vineyard. Top barrels were selected. As with their previous baco noirs, HOP has maintained both the rich jammy black currant spicy wood character and the lowish price – under $30 – a buck for each year. This bottle still needs another two years for proper aging, but with double decanting and prolonged exposure to air while under cork, it can be enjoyed now. 13% ABV. One of the top bacos in Ontario, works best with pronounced meats such as pork/boar, lamb, farmed or wild game – all either braised or grilled. Really old cheeses and blues as well. 400 cases produced; collectors' item. Quality/Price rating is 92.5 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Saturday, November 9, 2019

The October 23, 2019 Event: Devour! Food Film Festival aka DevourFest (Ninth edition) Opening Gala Reception (presented by Taste of Nova Scotia)

The Event: Devour! Food Film Festival aka DevourFest (Ninth edition) Opening Gala Reception (presented by Taste of Nova Scotia)
The Date and Time: Wednesday, October 23, 2019 5:30 PM – 8:30 PM
The Venue: Acadia University, Fountain Commons, Wolfville Nova Scotia.
The Target Audience: well-wishers and foodies, gala lovers in their "fineries".
The Availability/Catalogue: In style, the Gala Reception was much like similar benefits in Toronto – a walk-around with beverage stations (wine, beer, cider and spirits) and food stations next to each other. It was the usual grazing pattern, except in our case, it is in the lovely autumn of Nova Scotia. So the beverages and the food were mostly available only locally. Still, the theme was Italian food and culture, and the invited restaurants did their amazing job in replicating Italian food.
The Quote/Background: This Opening Gala used to be part of a package with the Opening Gala Film, but recently the two got split (you could now do one or both), which suited our personal timetables better. My wife's account of some of the thought-provoking movies we saw at Devour is at http://scenesfromthejourney.blogspot.com/2019/10/devour-wolfville-ns.html
Eleven of Nova Scotia's finest chefs came together to create sensory explorations that celebrated local cuisine with an Italian theme. There may have been more food stations that I passed by.... But participating (and tasted) were:
-Martin Ruiz Salvador, Beach Pea Kitchen and Bar, Lunenberg, with his salt cod and celeriac cream with poached eggs, sourdough toast, lamb bacon and black garlic. This was my fave of the evening – I even went back for "seconds". He also did a nifty beef carpaccio. I would give him the "Award For Best Food Presented to an Outlander who Comes from Away". Last year he did an equally impressive tuna, squid, and oyster dish. www.beachpeakitchen.com
-Renee Lavallee, The Canteen, Darmouth NS with her duck liver parfait on housemade crackers and crabapple mustard. This was my wife's fave; she may have gone back for "seconds". In fact, last year Renee did a smoked beef brisket and she was the first to run out (everybody had to make 300 portions). Later that week, in a culinary workshop mt wife took, Renee replicated her duck parfait when she taught the class. Kudos all round. www.thecanteen.ca
-Matthew Krizan, Mateus Restaurant, Mahone Bay, with its pulled duck and dulse was a close second for both of us. Last year Krizan produced trout lox. www.mateusbistro.ca
-The Flying Apron Inn and Cookery did a crespelle and white truffle dish, and a potato confit. Last year, they had a ricotta mousse decorated with beauty berries.
-Lightfoot & Wolfville Winery did a pork belly with a sauerkraut chip
-Meadowbrook Meat Market presented Italian salumi such as a meatball sausage with feta cheese balls.
-Keeper's Kitchen did an amazing smoked haddock pate
-Acadia Dining Services gave us a great "breakfast" of egg salad and smoked salmon
-The Carleton had Nova Scotia smoked swordfish
-Agyler's Lodge did their cannellini beans and pancetta; last year it was its famed lobster-scallop-haddock seviche).
-Founders House came up with a beef striploin, bone marrow and truffle.
The Beverages:  Bottled natural mineral water came from Canada Geese of Nova Scotia. Drinks came from The Good Cheer Trail featuring Annapolis Cider Company (best: Crisp and Dry, and Earl Blue), Benjamin Bridge, L'Acadie Vineyards, Compass Distillers,  Sober Island Brewing Company (best: oyster stout), Lake City Cider (best: Nieforth Original, Darkside Dry), Boxing Rock Brewing Company (Double IPA was terrific, so was Daskai Keji Black IPA), and Solas Kombucha. I did not try all the the wines, and I had some of the beers/ciders (I really enjoyed Sober Island's Oyster Stout, made with 20 kilos of oysters inserted for 10 minutes into a tank), but I did not have any distilled spirits or cocktails.
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Benjamin Bridge Brut NV Methode Traditionnelle $27.99 NS
-L'Acadie Vineyards Vintage Cuvee Rose MT 2016  $30  NS
-L'Acadie Vineyards Vintage Cuvee MT 2017  $30  NS
-Lightfoot & Wolfville Rose 2018
 
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Lightfoot & Wolfville Fauna Red
-Lightfoot & Wolfville Flora White
-Benjamin Bridge Tidal Bay 2018 $21.90 NS
The Downside: are you kidding? Maybe poorly amplified sound for the announcements and the tributes. It was hard to hear in the corners of the large room. Most attendees had to leave the Gala earlyish in order to get a seat at the film (the North American Premiere of "From the Vine", with Joe Pantoliano), which was followed by another cocktail party. My wife and I stayed with the Gala Reception, to visit more food and wine stations – we'll catch up with the movie later back in Toronto.
The upside: a great introduction to local Nova Scotia food and wine, and to keep an annual tab on the progress of the Nova Scotia wineries.
The Contact Person: lia@devourfest.com; michael@devourfest.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 95.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Wednesday, November 6, 2019

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for NOVEMBER 9, 2019

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES:  under/over $20 for NOVEMBER 9, 2019
 
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at http://www.deantudor.com since 1994.
 
These notes for good wines available through  LCBO Vintages (on a bi-weekly basis)  can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca  or at  http://www.deantudor.com
Thirty years ago I announced  in my newsletter that "Nobody can buy their way into, or out of this publication".
 
Scores are a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, e.g. a Southern Rhone would taste like a Southern Rhone) and QPR (Quality/Price Ratio value in the marketplace above or below its price).
 
NOTE: The first portion  is based on my sampling of the table wines chosen by the LCBO from this release for tasting. This presentation for Nov 9 release is 111  different labels out of about 153 released. These wines are basically those that fit the categories of  any of the Featured Themes, Wines of the Month, Local Talent, and "new" -- wines that the LCBO has ordered in sufficient quantities for the Ontario marketplace. Not put out for us are the re-orders (even though they may be of a different vintage)  and the ISDs. Thus, my report comes from a restricted database. I did not taste every one of these 111 category wines, nor did I rate several of the wines I did sample because they did not seem to be of particularly good value in terms of their price. For the most part, these particular wines come from the New World.
 
NOTE: The second part (at the end) is a simple listing of  those wines that were NOT presented to the media, and are given here simply as a record of  what sampling I could not do. I have left in the name of the agency, in fairness to all.
 
PART ONE:  The "best" wines of a reduced tasting  --
 
THIS MONTH'S SPECIAL FINDS --
 
Fizz+234161    JACKSON-TRIGGS ENTOURAGE GRAND RESERVE BRUT SPARKLING    Traditional method, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario    2015    $29.95
Fizz+546762    CUDDY BY TAWSE SPARKLING    Traditional method, VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario        $25.95   
Dessert+341024    SOUTHBROOK FRAMBOISE    Ontario $19.95 375mL
 
Under $20
=========
W+ 330407    KAIKEN TERROIR SERIES TORRONTÉS    Cafayate Valley, Salta    2018    $17.95       13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
W+10765    IN SITU RESERVA CHARDONNAY    Aconcagua Valley    2018    $14.95
13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 91
W+662775    D'ARENBERG THE HERMIT CRAB VIOGNIER/MARSANNE    McLaren Vale, South Australia    2017    $17.95     13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
W+148429    PENCARROW SAUVIGNON BLANC    Martinborough, North Island    2017    $18.95 12% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
W+10104    CHRISTINA THE HERITAGE COLLECTION CHARDONNAY    WO Robertson    2017    $18.95  13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 91
R+10473    DISTRICT 7 CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Monterey County, Central Coast    2016    $19.95 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+421198    UNDERWOOD PINOT NOIR Oregon 2017    $22.95     13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+249201    SAN PEDRO 1865 SELECTED VINEYARDS CARMENÈRE    DO Maule Valley    2017    $19.95 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+11141    VUELO GRAND RESERVA MERLOT    Cachapoal Valley    2016    $16.95     14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+10762    WILLIAM COLE GRAND RESERVE PINOT NOIR    Casablanca Valley    2017    $19.95 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+446146    SIDEWOOD SHIRAZ    Adelaide Hills, South Australia    2016    $19.95     14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.5
R+983742    L.A. CETTO PETITE SIRAH    Guadalupe Valley, Baja California    2016    $13.95 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+68767    NEDERBURG THE MANOR HOUSE CABERNET SAUVIGNON    WO Western Cape    2016    $16.95 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+403683    GÉRARD BERTRAND FITOU GRENACHE/CARIGNAN    AP    2017    $17.95 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+    452789    CONFIDENCIAL RESERVA    Vinho Regional Lisboa    2014    $14.95 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
W+    489963    DOMAINE DE LA RENNE TOURAINE SAUVIGNON BLANC    AC    2018    $16.95    12% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.5
 
Over $20
=========
W+643361    HENRY OF PELHAM SPECK FAMILY RESERVE RIESLING    VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara Escarpment    2018    $24.95 10.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
W+483875    THE TRAGICALLY HIP AHEAD BY A CENTURY CHARDONNAY    VQA Niagara Peninsula    2018    $21.95 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
W+424507    WESTCOTT ESTATE CHARDONNAY    VQA Vinemount Ridge, Niagara Peninsula    2017    $27.95 12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 91
W+326165    ROBERT MONDAVI TO KALON VINEYARD RESERVE FUMÉ BLANC    Napa Valley    2015    $59.95     14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
W+45583    SHAFER RED SHOULDER RANCH CHARDONNAY    Carneros, Napa Valley    2016    $84.95 14.9% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90.5
W+359513    CLOUDY BAY CHARDONNAY    Marlborough, South Island    2016    $38.95     13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
W+924555    KIM CRAWFORD RESERVE SAUVIGNON BLANC    Marlborough, South Island    2017    $24.95 12% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+556613    BURROWING OWL PINOT NOIR    BC VQA Okanagan Valley    2017    $39.95     14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+238261    FAUST CABERNET SAUVIGNON Napa Valley    2016    $59.95     14.9% ABV, MVC/QPR:  90
R+350454    RODNEY STRONG ALEXANDER VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Alexander Valley, Sonoma County    2016    $32.95 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+12217    TURLEY JUVENILE ZINFANDEL    California    2017    $49.95     15.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+316984    VERSADO RESERVA ANCIENT MALBEC    Mendoza    2013    $59.95     14.9% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+123729    VIÑA COBOS BRAMARE MALBEC    Unfined and unfiltered, Uco Valley, Mendoza    2015    $44.95 15% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+115311    VIÑALBA GRAN RESERVA MALBEC    Uco Valley, Mendoza    2015    $24.95     14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+222323    BEST'S BIN NO. 1 SHIRAZ    Great Western, Victoria    2016    $21.95     14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 91.5
R+9175    ELDERTON CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Barossa, South Australia    2016    $24.95    14.8% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+329706    THORNBURY PINOT NOIR    Central Otago, South Island    2017    $27.95     13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+10497    DE MORGENZON MAESTRO BLUE    WO Stellenbosch    2015    $29.95     14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+203364    ERRAZURIZ ACONCAGUA ALTO CABERNET SAUVIGNON    DO Aconcagua Valley    2017    $21.95     14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
 
PART TWO: The "rest" of the release [not offered for sampling by media] with agents --
 
    13961    UNITED STARS KINDZMARAULI    PDO Kindzmarauli, Kakheti    2017    $17.95    THE DOCHAS COMPANY INC.
    23408    SAN FABIANO CALCINAIA CHIANTI CLASSICO    DOCG    2016    $21.95    WOODMAN WINES & SPIRITS
    244228    PETRA ZINGARI    IGT Toscana    2015    $19.95    NOBLE ESTATES WINES & SPIRITS INC.
    288530    MAZZEI SER LAPO RISERVA CHIANTI CLASSICO    DOCG    2016    $24.95    DU CHASSE WINES & SPIRITS
    342444    MASI TOAR VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO SUPERIORE    DOC    2015    $23.95    AUTHENTIC WINE & SPIRITS MERCHANTS
    408138    QUINTA DO QUETZAL GUADALUPE WINEMAKER'S SELECTION RED    Vinho Regional Alentejano    2016    $16.95    VINYA
    443945    EL GORÚ MONASTRELL/SYRAH/PETIT VERDOT    DOP Jumilla    2018    $13.95    THE KOLONAKI GROUP INC
    166579    MONASTERIO DE LAS VIÑAS RESERVA GARNACHA/TEMPRANILLO/CARIÑENA    DOP Cariñena    2014    $14.95    NOBLE ESTATES WINES & SPIRITS INC.
    53397    LAKEVIEW CELLARS CABERNET FRANC ICEWINE    VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario    2017    $29.95    TRAJECTORY BEVERAGE PARTNERS
    117861    FEATHERSTONE ROSÉ    VQA Niagara Peninsula    2018    $15.95    FEATHERSTONE WINERY
    368415    LOUIS ROEDERER BRUT ROSÉ CHAMPAGNE    AC    2013    $104.95    AUTHENTIC WINE & SPIRITS MERCHANTS
    1537    NEWTON UNFILTERED CHARDONNAY    Napa Valley    2017    $73.95    CHARTON HOBBS INC
    11255    CARABELLA ESTATE PINOT GRIS    Chehalem Mountains, Willamette Valley    2017    $27.95    DB WINE & SPIRITS INC.
    556217    MATURANA NARANJO ORANGE WINE TORONTEL    Maule Valley    2018    $24.95    WINE LOVERS AGENCY INC.
    10956    MONTEMAJOR FIANO DI AVELINO    DOCG    2017    $23.95    CARTO ENTERPRISE
    130997    TAWSE LAUNDRY VINEYARD CABERNET FRANC    VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula    2014    $34.95    TAWSE WINERY INC.
    163725    JOSÉ ZUCCARDI MALBEC    Uco Valley, Mendoza    2015    $44.95    DIONYSUS WINES & SPIRITS LTD.
    986133    LEEUWIN PRELUDE VINEYARDS CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Margaret River, Western Australia    2014    $31.95    TERRA FIRMA WINES
    156828    BABICH WINEMAKERS' RESERVE MERLOT    Hawke's Bay, North Island    2015    $29.95    DIONYSUS WINES & SPIRITS LTD.
    11963    VILLA MARIA RESERVE GIMBLETT GRAVELS SYRAH    Gimblett Gravels, Hawke's Bay, North Island    2016    $49.95    PHILIPPE DANDURAND WINES LTD.
    195255    CHÂTEAU PIPEAU    AC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru    2015    $86.95    PARADIGM FINE WINE AGENCY
    51458    LE VOLTE DELL'ORNELLAIA    IGT Toscana    2017    $64.95    MARK ANTHONY WINE & SPIRITS
    10407    MASI MAZZANO AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO    DOCG    2012    $321.95    AUTHENTIC WINE & SPIRITS MERCHANTS
    265710    TORRES COS PERPETUAL    DOCa Priorat    2015    $59.95    PHILIPPE DANDURAND WINES LTD.
    748798    LUSTAU PALO CORTADO PENINSULA SOLERA FAMILIAR DRY SHERRY    DO        $35.95    JOHN HANNA & SONS LIMITED

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Monday, November 4, 2019

The October 15 Event: Sustainable South Africa – Wines of South Africa (WOSA) trade show portion

The Date and Time: Tuesday, October 15, 2019  11:30AM - 4PM
The Event: Sustainable South Africa – Wines of South Africa (WOSA) trade show portion
The Venue: Steamwhistle Brewery, Roundhouse Hall
The Target Audience: wine trade
The Availability/Catalogue: the show was in both Toronto and Montreal, and not all wines were at both places. The catalogue noted the wines and the vintages, but not all the wines had arrived. Prices (if available) had to be obtained at the tables.
The Quote/Background: The seminar at 11:30 was led by John Szabo, and was about the sustainability of the WOSA wineries. My ratings on these wines are folded into the notes below.
The Wines: There were 30 wineries, I did not taste them all nor all of the other wines. This time I tried mainly the whites, following on the lead of the seminar which had only two reds.
 
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Asara The Terroir Series Granite Chenin 2018
-Asara The Terroir Series Viognier 2018
-Asara Speciality Range White Cabernet Sauvignon 2018
-Boekenhoutskloof Vinologist Chenin Blanc 2018  $12.95  Univins
-Boekenhoutskloof Semillon 2016  Univins
-Whalehaven Conservation Coast Chardonnay 2016  $45
-Creation Reserve Chardonnay 2018  $49.95  Gradwell   Cons
-De Trafford Wines Sijnn White 2017  $35.95 Gradwell Cons
-Bellingham The Bernard Series Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2017  Dionysus
-Boschendal 1685 Chardonnay 2018 Vintages Essential  +367698  $15.95
-Kloovenburg Eight Feel 2017 White $25.95 Gradwell Cons
-Ken Forrester Wines Old Vine Reserve Chenin Blanc 2018 $18  Dec Vintages
-Ken Forrester Wines Old Vine Reserve Chenin Blanc 2007 Library
-Le Bonheur Sauvignon Blanc 2018  $24.95  Select
-Meerlust Rubicon 2016  $57.99  Lifford Cons
-Mullineux Wines Old Vines White 2018  $38  N Pearce
-Overhex Survivor Chenin Blanc 2018 $19.95  Trajectory Bev Co
-Pearce Predhomme Chenin Blanc 2018 $19.95  N Pearce
-Radford Dale The Renaissance of Chenin Blanc 2017 $45  N Pearce  PO
-Rustenberg Peter Barlow Cabernet Sauvignon 2010   Woodman
-Simonsig Chenin Avec Chene 2017  $34.95   Azureau  PO
-Spier 21 Gables Chenin Blanc 2017  $34.95  Sylvestre  PO
 
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Spier Seaward Sauvignon Blanc 2019  $15.95   Sylvestre
-Radford Dale Vinum Chenin Blanc 2018 $17.95  N Pearce
-Reyneke Organic Chenin Blanc 2019  Univins
-Perdeberg The Dry Land Collection Barrel Fermented Chenin Blanc 2018 $24.95  Loyal Imports
-Overhex Survivor Sauvignon Blanc 2018 $19.95  Trajectory Bev Co
-Fairview Amos Sauvignon Blanc 2019  Noble
-Meerlust Chardonnay 2018 $39.95  Lifford PO
-Asara Pickled Fush Sauvignon Blanc 2018
-Boekenhoutskloof The Wolftrap White 2018  $14.95 LCBO
-Bottega SA Family Wines Idiom Viognier 2017  ~$35
-Bottega SA Family Wines Idiom Semillon 2016  ~$35
-Whalehaven Sauvignon Blanc 2019 $20
-Bruce Jack Sauvignon Blanc 2018  $15.99 Lifford Cons
-Creation Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2019  $19.95  Gradwell   Cons
-Kloovenburg Unwooded Chardonnay 2019 $16.95  Gradwell  Cons
-L'Avenir Single Block Chenin Blanc 2018  Select
-Le Bonheur Chardonnay 2018  $14.95  Select
-Leeuwenkuil Reserve White 2017  Univins
-Leeuwenkuil Heritage Chenin Blanc 2017  Univins
-Mullineux Wines Kloof Street Chenin Blanc 2018   N Pearce
-Waterford Estate Single-Vineyard Chardonnay 2016   Epic Wines & Spirits
 
The Food: Daniel et Daniel did the catering which featured the usual meat platter (duck breast, salumi, sausages, and boerewors), cheeses, breads. Veggies and dips.
The Downside: I had to miss the opening of the seminar.
The Upside: A chance to re-connect with many WOSA wines (it had been a long time since the last trade show).
The Contact Person: keenan@propellorpr.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 89

Chimo! www.deantudor.com
AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
AND https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Dean Tudor, Ryerson University Journalism Professor Emeritus
Treasurer, Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://winewriterscircle.ca
Look it up and you'll remember it; screw it up and you'll never forget it.

Sunday, November 3, 2019

NEW BEVERAGE SAMPLES SENT TO ME FOR TASTING –

NEW BEVERAGE SAMPLES SENT TO ME FOR TASTING  –
 
1.Gerard Bertrand Terroir Languedoc Red 2015 +413237 October Vintages, $16.95: the last vintage here was 2013. This is a re-order of the 2015: it's a blend of syrah and grenache, promising both black fruit and red fruit tones at an affordable price. Local garrigue is apparent, complemented by some fennel. Part of the wine is transferred over to 225-litre oak barrels where it is aged for roughly 10 months. 14% ABV. Good price. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
2.Henry of Pelham Riesling Estate 2018 VQA Short Hills Bench, +557165 Vintages, $19.95: intense riesling in a Rhine style of cool fermentation, with very off-dry palate but dry finish (good acid levels on the finish) – broad grapefruit and lemons on the mid-palate, sip (mainly) or food. 10.5% ABV, 17g/L RS, twist top, from HOP's oldest Estate vineyards (33+ year old riesling vines). Should also age well. Try with fish that live in water but die in wine. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
3.Henry of Pelham Pinot Noir Speck Family Reserve 2017 VQA Short Hills Bench, +657874 Vintages November, $34.95: this is an LCBO re-order of a top of the line pinot noir from Ontario, fruit-forward with enough black/dark tones of cherry-berry capable of long cellar aging. The winery says Clones 667 on Block 100 were used for 250 cases. Tank fermentation with 10 months small European oak barrel aging, finishing as blended in an oak tank. Very, very food friendly. 13.5% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
4.Cantina Valpantena Veneto Chardonnay IGP 2017 $13.95 Consignment Majestic Wine Cellars:  It's a definite antipasto or pre-prandial wine since it was light lemons with lively acidity, some tart apples, 12% ABV, and a longer finish than I was expecting. Quite pleasant. Under composition cork. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
5.Albino Armani 1607 Chardonnay Capitel 2017 Trentino DOC, $19.95 consignment Majestic Wine Cellars. From the Adige Valley region, it's a mellow, rounder wine with less acid (sweet apples) but a long honeyed finish in the mouth. Composition cork, and it too had sweet apples, limes and citrus, and a bright freshness from the stainless steel. 12.5% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
6.Biscardo Oropasso Originale 2018 IGT Veneto $17.95 consignment from Majestic Wine Cellars: made from 60% garganega (basis of soave) and 40% chardonnay juice. No oak, just stainless steel for freshness. But a longer fermentation than usual, and five months on the lees. Results? An engaging floral, off-sweet bouquet leading to nuts and tropical fruits on the palate with citrus running in the background. A good seam of acidity through to the spicy finish. Best with food, but possible also as a sipper. A very nice riff on Soave. The company's series includes Rosapasso (pinot noir rose) and Neropasso (red), all trading off on the "oro-" gold usage. 13% ABV. Good value. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
7.Morgan Bay Cellars Chardonnay 2017 California appellation $17.95 Majestic Wine Cellars Consignment:  cork disc closure, well-rounded texture meant to appeal to the US palate. There were lemons and green apples, but also the softness and taste of a creamy caramel. But there is also enough finishing acid for a first course. Otherwise, sip away. 13% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
8.Rutherford Ranch Chardonnay 2016 Napa $25.95, Consignment from Majestic Wine Cellars: a soft wine full of orchard fruit (baked apple, pear), creamy, bright, some vanilla but a little toasted French oak (and lees) with spices. Aperitif or with seafood. 13.5% ABV. RS a meagre 0.1 g/L. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
10.Jim Barry The Cover Drive Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 Coonawarra Terra Rossa South Australia, $19.95 +677476 Vintages October: it's been awhile since I've had an affordable dense cabby from Oz (since the days of Hill Smith?). This one's loaded with juicy cassis and black cherry notes. Some Bordeaux-like tones come into play (leafy tobacco, cedar box, anise, some herbaceousness. Near the finish there is a softness that may seem out-of-place, but the wine is now almost four years old. Coonawarra produces only 1.5% of Australian wine; the exceptional Terra Rossa section is but a small part of this tiny percentage. A winner all round. 14.3% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
11&12.Chateau des Charmes Atelier White 2017 VQA NOTL $14.95 LCBO +688499, and
Chateau des Charmes Atelier Red 2017 VQA NOTL $14.95 LCBO +688523, both also at winery and online: these two wines represent the latest blended wines from Chateau des Charmes
as Generation Seven Red and White came a decade ago. The white is unusual in that it's an Ontario version of the Alsatian Edelzwicker, with its Riesling-Gewurztraminer-Auxerrois blend of noble varieties. 1800 cases of social wine (parties, pre-prandials, first course food accompaniments) in the mainly popular riesling-gewurz style favoured by a lot of wineries world-wide. The red, to continue a French analogy, is Burgundy meets Bordeaux, with five different grapes: Gamay noir-Pinot noir-Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon-Cabernet Franc. 4000 cases of social wine or first course food accompaniments. Both wines are produced from the Chateau's own estates, and are light-bodied (no oak) and fruity (floral in the white, berries in the red), to accompany friends or simple foods as a social wine. 12% ABV for both. Both are also part of the Limited Time Offers running from the Sept 16 through Oct 13 period, reducing the price to $13.95 apiece. Quality/Price rating of both is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
13&14.Toro Bravo Tempranillo Merlot 2018 Valencia, $7.95 LCBO +635755, and Toro Bravo Verdejo Sauvignon Blanc 2018 La Mancha, $7.95 LCBO +10711: these are not the cheapest wines at the LCBO but they do appear to be the most reasonable. The trend in lower-end pricing or entry wines has always been to the bi-varietal spectrum, such as most of the wines from Latin America, especially the ones in magnums. This works in Europe too. Here we have a Tempranillo and Merlot mix from Valencia, where the blend neatly plays down any shortcomings and plumps up the softness and rich readiness of the lowered tannin finish. Fruity, best suited to red wine drinkers on the patio who like just red wine without any food. Sip or quaff. 13% ABV. The white (Verdejo Sauvignon Blanc) to my mind tastes better: more citrus and orchard stone fruit. It is nicely blended and can serve as a patio wine or aperitif or first course wine with light food, showing off a light minerality. 11.5% ABV. Both have a twist top, of course, and both are value wines. Quality/Price rating of the red Toro Bravo is 87 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures. Quality/Price rating of the white Toro Bravo is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Devour, Wolfville, NS

 

Devour, Wolfville, NS, by Ann Tudor 

We just arrived back in Toronto after spending a week in beautiful Wolfville, Nova Scotia. The occasion of the trip was Devour, the Food Film Festival, a five-day extravaganza of eighty films, plus three large dinners, prepared by chefs from Canada, the U.S., and Europe. Culinary workshops were taught by well-known chefs and there were also workshops on film-making, foraging, wine-tasting, and cheese-tasting—as well as trips to wineries and breweries.

 

My reason for writing about the festival here (aside from the hope that some of you might be inspired to attend Devour next year) is to tell you about a few of the movies that inspired me.

 

Two movies ("Dive" and "The Food Fighter") deal with the question of food waste, showcasing people who work tirelessly to inform us and to persuade (for example) large grocery chains to send their perfectly good packaged products to soup kitchens rather than to the dumpsters behind their stores. Very inspiring stories.

 

"Billion Dollar Bully" investigates the accusations that Yelp! is running a mob-like extortion scheme.

 

"The Game Changers" views plant-based eating not just as the best choice environmentally but as a way for athletes to achieve their best results. Fascinating and very persuasive.

 

Finally, "Maxima" and "Honeyland" are portraits of very strong women thriving in harrowing circumstances. Maxima lives in mountainous Peru, where her small piece of land is coveted by a giant gold-mining company. "Honeyland", set in rural Macedonia, follows the life of a woman who uses ancient traditions in the keeping of her bees.

 

All of these movies are well worth your time. "The Game Changers" is already on Netflix, so it's easy to find. I urge you to watch for the others during the next year, whether on-line or at your local theatre.

 

And do go to www.devourfest.com to learn more about the festival, which will celebrate its tenth anniversary next year.

 

Friday, November 1, 2019

The Event: A tasting of Fortified Wines as developed by the Wine Writers' Circle of Canada (18th annual tasting)

The Date and Time: Tuesday October 8, 2019  3PM to 7PM
The Event: A tasting of Fortified Wines as developed by the Wine Writers' Circle of Canada (18th annual tasting)
The Venue: Wine Writers' Circle of Canada's clubhouse.
The Target Audience: WWCC members exclusive.
The Availability/Catalogue: All these fortified wines are at the LCBO or by consignment, etc. They include ports, sherries, vermouths, and other beverages.
The Quote/Background: This was not a competition or a judging, but a tasting for writing purposes re: Holiday Wines and Gifts. The Wine Writers' Circle of Canada would like to thank each of the supplying agents for their contributions.
The Wines: My ratings do NOT include a ranking beyond GOOD, BETTER, and BEST. They are listed randomly within each category.
The Wines: Meanwhile, this just in: " Interest in sherry is drying up to the point of extinction despite concerted efforts at a revival, writes Don Kavanagh. Meanwhile, searches on Wine-Searcher for port increased 34.5% in the last five years, and searches for the most-popular port so far this year were conducted 46 times more frequently than searches for most-popular sherry, he writes."
 
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
Producer    Product Name    Vintage    Price    LCBO #     Country    Region    Grape Varieties    Alc. %     Availability Where      Availability When     Agent or Winery Info    Comments
-La Madre Vermouth    La Madre Premium    nv    $29.45    490978    Spain    Spain        15    E-Comm    Now    Majestic Wine Cellars   
-Sandeman    20 YO Tawny Port    n/a    $64.95    116178    Portugal    Douro    Touriga Franca, etc.    20% Vintages front line anytime (no release scheduled) Charton Hobbs   
-Tawse Winery    Orange Bitters        $12.95     N/A    Canada    Niagara        50%    Retail shop    Now    Daniel Lafleur   
-Tawse Winery    Lemon Bitters        $12.95     N/A    Canada    Niagara        50%    Retail shop    Now    Daniel Lafleur   
-Tawse Winery    Lavender Bitters        $12.95     N/A    Canada    Niagara        50%    Retail shop    Now    Daniel Lafleur   
-Tawse Winery    Wild Cherry Bark Bitters        $13     N/A    Canada    Niagara        50%    Retail shop    Now    Daniel Lafleur   
-Tawse Winery    Barrel-aged Bitters        $12.95     N/A    Canada    Niagara        50%    Retail shop    Now    Daniel Lafleur   
-Tawse Winery    Aromatics Bitters        $12.95     N/A    Canada    Niagara        50%    Retail shop    Now    Daniel Lafleur   
-PADRÓ I FAMILIA SL    PADRÓ & CO. ROJO CLÁSICO VERMOUTH    NV    EST $24.75    835181    SPAIN    CATALUNYA    MACABEO    18.0    DESTINATION    Nov-19 DB WINE & SPIRITS 180 BTLS
-Taylor Fladgate    10 Year Old Tawny    NV    $35.95    121749    Portugal    Douro        20    LCBO    Vintage Essential    Sylvestre Wines & Spirits   
-Taylor Fladgate    20 Year Old Tawny    NV    $69.95    14907    Portugal    Douro        20    LCBO    Vintage Essential    Sylvestre Wines & Spirits   
-Taylor Fladgate    Vintage Port    2017    $159.95    12076    Portugal    Douro        20    LCBO - V-mail    March 19th, 2020    Sylvestre Wines & Spirits   
-Croft    Vintage Port    2017    127.95    12082    Portugal    Douro        20    LCBO    March 19th, 2020    Sylvestre Wines & Spirits   
-Oscar 697    697 Rosso    0    $29.95    Consignment    Italy    Milano        16    Consignment/Ecom    Now    Majestic Wine Cellars   
-Oscar 697    697 Bianco    0    $29.95    Consignment    Italy    Milano        16    Consignment/Ecom    Now    Majestic Wine Cellars   
 
 
 
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
Producer    Product Name    Vintage    Price    LCBO #     Country    Region    Grape Varieties    Alc. %     Availability Where      Availability When     Agent or Winery Info    Comments
-Sandeman    10 YO Tawny Port    n/a    $34.95    n/a    Portugal    Douro    Touriga Franca, etc.    20    Private Order    anytime    Charton Hobbs   
-Sandeman    Late Bottled Vintage    2012    $13.40 sale    195974    Portugal    Douro    Touriga Franca, etc.    20.5    LCBO    GL    Charton Hobbs   
-Tawse Winery    Dry Vermouth        $23.13     N/A    Canada    Niagara    Riesling + 14 botanicals    18.5    Retail shop    Now    Daniel Lafleur   
-Sogrape Vinhos de Portugal    Ferreira Dona Antonia Tawny Reserve Port    NV    $19.95    157586    Portugal    Douro    30% Malvasia Fina, 20% Códega, 20% Viosinho, 20%   Rabigato, 10% Arinto    20    LCBO    All year    Authentic Wine & Spirits Merchants   
-Alvear     Alvear Fino Montilla-Morilles         $14.05    112771    Spain    Montilla Morilles     Fino    15%    LCBO     General List     FWM Canada-
-La Madre Vermouth    La Madre Red    0    $21.5    491018    Spain    Spain        15    E-Comm    Now    Majestic Wine Cellars   
-Symington Family     Warre's Otima 10 y.o. Tawny    NV    $21.95     566174    Portugal    Oporto    Touriga Nacional, local varieties     20.00%    LCBO - General list    Year-round    Dionysus W&S Ltd   
 
 
*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
Producer    Product Name    Vintage    Price    LCBO #     Country    Region    Grape Varieties    Alc. %     Availability Where      Availability When     Agent or Winery Info    Comments
-Sandeman    Fine Ruby Port    n/a    $15.95    23366    Portugal    Douro    Touriga Franca, etc.    19.5    LCBO    GL    Charton Hobbs   
-Williams & Humbert     Dry Sack Sherry    NV    $14.05    13565    Spain    Jerez - Xeres     Palomino, Pedro Ximénez    19.5    LCBO General List    All the time     Dandurand. 1660 Tech Ave Unit 2A mississauga ON L4W 5S7. 416-368-3344   
-Taylor Fladgate    Late Bottled Vintage    2014    $18.95    46946    Portugal    Douro        20    LCBO    GL    Sylvestre Wines & Spirits   
-Taylor Fladgate    First Estate    NV    $17.50    309401    Portugal    Douro        20    LCBO    GL    Sylvestre Wines & Spirits   
-Croft     Reserve Tawny Port    NV    $18.95    538983    Portugal    Douro        20    LCBO    March 7th, 2020    Sylvestre Wines & Spirits   
-Fonseca     Fonesca Bin No.27 Reserve Porto         $17    325506    Portugal     Cima Corga         20%    LCBO     General List     FWM Canada- info@fwmcanada.com   
-Fonseca     Fonseca White Port         $17    276816    Portugal     Douro Valley    Arinto, Malvasia Fina, Codega, Esgana Cao, Folgasao, Gouveio, Viosinho and Rabigato     20%    LCBO     General List     FWM Canada- info@fwmcanada.com   
info@fwmcanada.com   
-Alvear     Alvear Medium Dry         $14.05    112789    Spain    Montilla Morilles     Amontillado     17%    LCBO     General List     FWM Canada- info@fwmcanada.com   
 
The Food: baguette, unsalted roasted almonds, Nicoise olives, water
The Contact Person:  deantudor@yahoo.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 94
 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com