WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR FEBRUARY 18, 2012

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR FEBRUARY 18, 2012
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at
http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news
items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at
www.deantudor.com since 1994. My tastings are based on MVC (Modal
Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices
are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does
NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product
consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Creekside Laura's White 2009 VQA Niagara: InterVin Silver medal, the
blend has a little smoke in it, adds complexity. +121764, $18.95, QPR:
89.
2. Tawse Sketches of Niagara Chardonnay 2009 VQA: well-developed
Ontario wine, better than a second label. 13% ABV, twist top. +89037,
$19.95, QPR: 89.
3. Lander-Jenkins Spirit Hawk Chardonnay 2009 California: very good
balance of sweeter side of oak (vanilla, cloves) plus the muscat
enhancer. Sip before a meal. 13.5% ABV. +162651, $18.95, QPR: 90.
4. Mount Riley Sauvignon Blanc 2011 Marlborough South Island: really a
grassy and herby savvy, great for food. Fresh. 13% ABV. +981670,
$16.95, QPR: 90.
5. Morgenhof Sauvignon Blanc 2010 WO Simonsberg-Stellenbosch: just a
step below the Mount Riley, not as grassy, more full bodied. 13.5% ABV.
+18507, $16.95, QPR: 89.
6. Domaine Francois Schwach Muscat 2008 Alsace: dry finish, higher
acid, 12.5% ABV. +261644, $15.95, QPR: 89.
7. Maison Francois Martenot Cuvee Prestige Chardonnay Bourgogne 2009:
MVC but medium body, a bit of everything (vague memories of burgundy,
etc.). 12.5% ABV. +159095, $15.95, QPR: 89.
8. Valminor Albarino 2010 Rias Baixas: delicious, aromatic orchard
fruit and longer length, twist top, 12.5% ABV. +266924, $15.95, QPR:
89.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. F. Lurton Hacienda Araucano Reserva Syrah 2009 Lolol Valley: very
good syrah tones, pure, twist top, 14% ABV. +269209, $14.95, QPR: 89.
2. Santa Rita Medalla Real Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Maipo:
lots of black fruit showing, aged in new French oak for over 14 months,
14.5% ABV. Hard to believe that it is selling here under $20. +275594,
$19.95, QPR: 92.
3. Saronsberg Art Space Shiraz/Mourvedre 2009 WO Coastal Region South
Africa: off-dry mouth-feel, 14.5% ABV. Good MVC. +263590, $14.95, QPR:
89.
4. Chateau de Montmal Fitou 2009: red fruit driven, spices, long
length, some anise, 13.5% ABV. +265447, $17.95, QPR: 89.
5. Chateau Saint-Roch Chimeres 2009 Cotes du Roussillon-Villages: dark
fruit, lovely texture on mid-palate, long lingering finish. 14.5% ABV,
Gold Medal. +119354, 18.95, PR: 90.
6. Poderi Chuerra Jerzu Riserva Cannonau di Sardegna 2007: nicely aged,
affordable, good depth, black fruit, thick flavours, mouth coating,
food wine. 13.5% ABV. +270272, $15.95, QPR: 90.
7. Azul Portugal 2008 Ribatejo: dark fruit, North American appeal, 14%
ABV. +266890, $13.95, QPR: 89.
8. Terra d'Alter Reserva 2008 VR Alentejano: good oakiness, very
continental but with smoke and coconut, 14.5% ABV. +266916, $14.95,
QPR: 89.
9. Beronia Reserva 2006 Rioja: woody, well-aged complexity, delicious
with food, 14% ABV. +50203, $19.95, QPR: 90.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1. 13th Street Old Vines Riesling 2010 VQA Creek Shores, +272617, $23.95
retail.
2. La Crema Chardonnay 2009 Sonoma Coast, +962886, $28.95.
3. Bachelder Oregon Chardonnay 2009 Willamette Valley, +273334, $36.95.
4. Signorello Vieilles Vignes Chardonnay 2008 Napa Valley BF, +742692,
$51.95.
5. 7 Deadly Zins Old Vine Zinfandel 2009 Lodi, +59311, $24.95.
6. Clos du Val Zinfandel 2009 Napa, +590216, $23.95.
7. Champy Beaune Vieilles-Vignes 2008, +726406, $28.95.
8. Cuvee du Vatican Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2009, +719120, $37.95.
9. Rocca delle Macie Tenuta Sant'Alfonso Chianti Classico 2007,
+942094, $21.95.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH!

 CHICKEN (Reaktion Books, 2012; distr. Univ. of Chicago Press, 216
pages, ISBN 978-1-86189-858-6, $19.95 US paper covers) is by Annie
Potts, an academic in New Zealand. Her book is one of the amazing
"Animal" series published by Reaktion in the UK. Most of the series
deal with animals we do not eat, such as Cat, Dog, Giraffe, Parrot and
Whale. Domesticated animals have included Cow, Pig and Duck, plus
farmed animals such as Salmon and Moose. This is the popular culture
story of the Chicken: dealing with historical and literary items such
as fancy breeds from jungle fowl, the religious venerations of chickens
and roosters in the past, egg-rolling, cockfighting, wishbone-pulling,
and the like. Relationships with humans are also covered. There is a
separate chapter on "meat chicks" and "egg machines". And it has been
richly illustrated with colour and black and white historical photos
and drawings, older advertisements, and just plain whimsy – 103 in all,
72 in colour. At the end, Potts has an illustrated timeline of the
chicken, endnotes, select bibliography, a listing of associations and
periodicals, websites, and an index. This is compelling reading.
Audience and level of use: those interested in food lore and history.
Some interesting or unusual facts: "The Day of the Chicken is the first
day of the lunar Chinese New Year, so called because only the Heavenly
Chicken knows when the first sunrise of a new year occurs."
Quality/Price Rating: 90.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

TASTING Autochthonous (indigenous) wines from Appelation Wines agency

The Date and Time: Friday, February 3, 2012    10:30 AM to 1:30 PM

The Event: a tasting of autochthonous wines (made from indigenous grape varieties), available from Ken Hayden of Appellation Wines.

The Venue: LCBO Scrivener Square

The Target Audience: members of the WWCC.

The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available on consignment or by private order.

The Quote/Background: the event was put on at the request of the WWCC Executive, as a special tasting for its members. Ken specializes in sourcing indigenous grape varieties from France, Spain and Italy.

The Quote/Background: It is a trend now to produce indigenous grape varieties in small lots, for there will always be a market for these types of grapes.

The Wines: Prices are approximate since most wines are still coming in.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-2011 Santa Venere Vescovado Guardavalle Calabria IGT [organic]$24.30

-2010 Fina Vini Taif 2010 Zibibbo Marsala IGP $24.10 (white)

-2007 Vera de Estenas Casa Don Angel Bobal DO, Utiel-Requena, Spain

(red) $36 (heavily oaked, my fave)

-2011 Emilio Bulfon Cjanòrie VDT, Friuli, Italy (red) $21.50

-2009 Rebus Ruche di Castagnole Monferrato DOC, Piedmont, Italy (red)

-2010 Cantina Ma.Ri.Ca Ramosceto Lacrima di Morro d'Alba Belevedere Ostrense – Marche DOC $19.40.

-2010 Ibervinum Ad Libitum Maturana Tinta Rioja Alta (red) $24.50

-2011 Vinchio Vaglio Serra "Rebus" Ruche DOC Ruche di Castagnole Monferrato Italy (red) $22.10

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-2010 Santa Venere Speziale Marsigliana Nera Calabria IGT [organic] $24.95

-2010 Chateau Lecusse Cuvee Speciale Fer Servadou AGC, Gaillac, France

(red) $21.50

-2010 Chateau Lecusse Cuvee Speciale Loin de l'Oeil AGC, Gaillac, France (white) $21.50

-2010 Ibervinum Ad Libitum Tempranillo Blanco Rioja Alta (white) $24.50

-2008 Torre Guaceto "Sum" Sussumaniello Manduria Puglia, $25.15

-2007 Vinedos y Bodegas Pablo Menguante Vidadillo DO Carinena, Spain

(red) $22.45

-2010 Emilio Bulfon Forgiarin IGT Venezia Giulia, Italy (red) $21.50

-2010 Emilio Bulfon Piculit Neri IGT Venezie, Italy (red) $22.75

-2008 Fatt. Paradiso Barbarossa Forli IGT Italy, $34.25 (red)

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

 

-2011 Emilio Bulfon Sciaglin IGT Venezia Giulia Italy (white) $21.50

-2010 Chateau Lecusse Cuvee Speciale Duras AGC, Gaillac, France

(red) $21.50

-2010 Terra di Briganti Sciascinoso Sannio DOP Italy, (red) $23.50

-2011 Vinchio Vaglio Serra "Le Nocche" Grignolino d'Asti DOC, Piedmont, Italy (red) $18.65

 

We were also given an opportunity to taste some of Appellation's non-indigenous products from Vintages (retail):

 

FOUR stars

–Domaine Francois Schwach Muscat 2008 Alsace, +261644, $15.95.

 

THREE AND A HALF STARS

–Domaine Saint Andeol Cotes du Rhone Villages Cairanne 2009, +251512, $17.95

-Domaine Francois Schwach Cremant Blanc de Blanc Brut 2007 Alsace, +268060, $18.95.

-Domaine Hubert Reyser Riesling Stephansberg 2008, +118240, $19.95

 

THREE STARS

-Domaine Roche Guillon Fleurie 2010, +269514, $17.95.

 

plus a private order wine from Jo Cooke Wine Selections (Campo al Pero Bolgheri DOC Toscana 2007, $27 est.)

 

The Downside: I was stymied, trying to compare varieties with varieties

I knew well, as a touchstone.

The Upside: a rare opportunity to taste a variety of wines, well-made

but with different tastes.

The Contact Person: kenhayden@appellationwines.ca

The Marketing Effectiveness of this Event (numerical grade): 92.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH!

1. THE OXFORD COMPANION TO BEER (Oxford University Press, 2012, 920
pages, ISBN 978-0-19-536713-3, $65 US hard covers) has been edited by
Garrett Oliver, brew master of The Brooklyn Brewery, and beer book
author (The Brewmaster's Table). He's also led more than 700 beer
tasting events over the past two decades. As with other Oxford
Companions, this is an assortment of well-defined articles about the
world of beer, gathered for consistency and relevancy, and put into
alphabetic order. It makes a great read for beer lovers, either
randomly or from the beginning. 165 beer experts from 20 countries
contributed material for over 1,100 entries. Topics include:
biographies, beer history, the brewing process, tastings and notes,
beer styles, profiles of beer-producing regions, varieties of hops
(more than 100 entries) and barley, food pairing, glassware, barrel-
aging, dry hopping, bottle re-fermentation, and more. Illustrations are
derived from advertisements, brochures, postcards, photos, and more.
The appendices have lists of beer organizations and clubs, beer
festivals, websites, magazines, and beer museums. Articles are signed,
and there is a list of contributors with their affiliations.
Audience and level of use: reference libraries, intelligent beer
lovers.
Some interesting or unusual facts: gravity dispense is the original
method for drawing beer from a cask, before the invention of draught
systems.
The downside to this book: Nick Pashley and Stephen Beaumont, both beer
experts in Canada, are not listed as contributors.
The upside to this book: there are two full pages about Michael Jackson
the beer and scotch writer.
Quality/Price Rating: 93.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

Annual Wine Writers' Circle Holiday Dinner, at MidEastro Jan 30/12

The Date and Time: Monday, January 30, 2012  6PM to midnight

The Event: annual Holiday dinner of the Wine Writers' Circle of Canada

The Venue: MidEastro Yorkville

The Target Audience: WWCC members and their guests.

The Availability/Catalogue: all of the dinner wines were drawn from members' cellars, most are older vintages. There were some reception wines from Bottega in Italy and from New Zealand.

The Quote/Background: There was a range of Prosecco from Bottega, as well as some white wines from New Zealand. I could not taste all of these wines.

The Wines: we were all supposed to bring one bottle a person, and we were seated at tables of six, so I got to taste a few different wines.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-TeAwa Hawkes Bay Chardonnay 2009

-Burrowing Owl Meritage 2008 Okanagan

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Nautilus Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2010

-Astrolabe Pinot Gris 2010

-Spy Valley Riesling 2010

-Lailey Chardonnay 2008 VQA Niagara

-Pasquale Alma Mater 2010 New Zeal (pinot gris/gewurztraminer/riesling)

-Wither Hills Barangis Sauvignon Blanc 2010

-Tyrone Estate DeVine Shiraz 2007 Organic Australia [my wine]

-Panther Creek Reserve Petite Syrah 2007

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Chakana Reserve Malbec 2008 Argentina

-Ancient Peaks Paso Robles Syrah 2007

-Citto Volpaia 2008 Toscano

-Château Pipeau 2005

-Etim Old vine Grenache 2005

-Domaine Pierre Fil Cuvée Elesyces 2007

 

The Food: it was really very stunning. Here was the Menu

 

Canapes Served at the Bar with Reception wines:

olive oil and garlic, tomato spread, tapenade – all with black olive bread.

 

Canapé Served at the Table:

mini babaganoush, hummus, matbuha, fried eggplant

Served with black olive bread

 

1st Course [excellent, best plate of the evening]

Black truffle carpaccio

12 week aged Wagyu tenderloin rolled on arugula, Parmiggiano Reggiano, balsamic and black truffle oil on a layer of pomegranate honey reduction

 

2nd Course

Grilled calamari

Served on lime root vegetable cream and ox tail caviar lentil pot au feu

 

Cranberry sorbet

 

3rd Course

4oz Sea-bream Couscous, Tripoli-style couscous

 

OR

 

8oz New York Steak [I was so full, I took half my steak home with me]

On black truffle mashed potatoes, sea asparagus & baked bone marrow in balsamic & chestnut demi-glace

 

4th Course

Homemade pastilla

Stuffed with dry fruit, dark chocolate ganache with coconut semifreddo and garnished with mint and white chocolate coulis

 

Coffees

 

The Downside: so many wines to sample, and I had forgotten my spittoon.

The Upside: great friends, great wines, great food.

The Contact Person: spuritt@sympatico.ca

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 93

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR FEBRUARY 4, 2012

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR FEBRUARY 4, 2012
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at
http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news
items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at
www.deantudor.com since 1994. My tastings are based on MVC (Modal
Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices
are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does
NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product
consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Gran Lurton Corte Friulano 2010 Uco Valley Mendoza: wonderful
aromatic complexity, partial BF for Sauvignon Vert, Pinot Gris,
Chardonnay and Torrontes varieties. +66829, $19.95, QPR: 90.
2. Vieil Armand Medaille Gewurztraminer 2009 Alsace: 13% ABV, dynamite
MVC, whirling world of lychee, peach, citrus, and some bittering.
+260158, $16.95, QPR: 91.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Albino Armani Egle Ripasso Valpolicella Superiore 2008: "Ripasso of
the month". +247916, $15.95, QPR: 89.
2. Maculan Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 IGT Veneto: a lighter Bordeaux-like
style, good value at this price. +987701, $14.95, QPR: 90.
3. Maetierra Dominum Quatro Pagos Reserva 2005 Rioja: delicious, albeit
sweet tones, not drying out, 14% ABV, "Reserva" not noted on front
label. +246660, $19.95, QPR: 89
4. Columbia Crest Grand states Merlot 2007 Columbia Valley Washington
State: smoke and toast dominate, fruit after mid-palate. Yummy. 13.5%
ABV. +263418, $15.95, QPR: 91.
5. Crios de Susana Balbo Malbec 2010 Mendoza: dense, 13.5% BV, but good
finishing acid for food pairing. +162529, $13.5, QPR: 89.
6. La Posta Angel Paulucci Vineyard Malbec 2008 Mendoza: ripe and
juicy, long finish, food or sipper. 13.9% BV. +75515, $15.95, QPR: 89.
7. Jip Jip Rocks Shiraz/Cabernet 2009 Padthaway: dense and chunky, some
mint showing, 14.5% BV. +186114, $16.95, QPR: 89.
8. Tapestry BG & V Shiraz 2009 McLaren Vale: twist top, rich and fruit,
14% ABV. +247155, $17.95, QPR: 89.
9. Chateau Haut-Canteloup 2009 Blaye: dynamite MVC Bordeaux, 13% ABV,
delivers flavour and value, ready now. +64747, $13.95, QPR: 93.
10. Chateau Piron 2008 Montagne St-Emilion: juicy, affordable, 12.5%
ABV. +176982, $16.95, QPR: 89.
11. Perrin Nature Cotes du Rhone 2010: very good finish and development
for this organic wine. +948059, 16.95, QPR: 90.
12. L'Excellence du Chateau Bladinieres 2008 Cahors: delicious wood
aging, 13% ABV. Gold Medal. +264671, $16.95, QPR: 90.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1. Antolini Moropio Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2006, +247957,
$34.95 retail.
2. Stratus Chardonnay 2008 VQA NOTL, +267856, $42.20.
3. Landmark Damaris Reserve Chardonnay 2008 Flocchini & Sangiacomo
Vyds, Sonoma, +356519, $45.95.
4. Domaine Jean Collet & Fils Vaillons Chablis 1er Cru 008, +650804,
$28.95.
5. Domaine Fouassier Les Grands Groux Sancere 2009, +267948, $24.95.
6. Mission Hill Reserve Merlot 2008 VQA Okanagan, +553313, $25.95
7. Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon 2007 Napa, +80218, $89.95.
8. Dry Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Sonoma, +642207, $24.95.
9. Francis Coppola Diamond Collection Blue Label Merlot 2008
California, +595686, 24.95.
10. Kilikanoon Testament Shiraz 2007 Barossa, +50047, $39.95.
11. Loacker Corte Pavone Brunello di Montalcino 2005, +237263, $49.95.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

First Saintsbury Society Dinner of 2012 now a matter of record...

The Date and Time: Saturday, January 28, 2012  7:30 PM to 11:30 PM

The Event: Saintsbury Society Dinner

The Venue: somewhere in the East End of Toronto

The Target Audience: Members and Guests

The Availability/Catalogue: Most of the wines were not available as they were older vintages. Our host provided a tasting of Gigondas.

The Quote/Background: "One of the rules is: we cannot ask you back to this location." This secret society, without its robes, appears to specialize in gourmet dinners and old wines at members' houses. Some outsiders get invited to participate. Tonight it was my (and my wife's) turn.

The Wines:

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Domaine de Mavette Gigondas 2007 (13.5%), $23.95 Vintages

-Delas Freres Cornas 1983 Chante Perdix

-Josef Draften Wittinger Scharzberg Riesling Extra Dry Mosel Sekt 2009, 12.5%, $13.95 Vintages

-Domaine de Cabasse 2007 Gigondas, 15% $29.95 Vintages

-Cuilleron Cote Rotie 2007 Terres Lombres, 13.5%

-Domaine de Bonsterine Cote Rotie 2008 La Sarrasine

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Chateau de Trinquevdel 2011 Rose Tavel (13.5%), $17.95 Vintages March

-Hartz Barn Sparkling Shiraz 2001 Black Bead Barossa, 13.5% en magnum

-Domaine des Bernardins Muscat Beaumes de Venise 2009, 15% half-bottle

-Domaine Mathieu Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2005 Blanc, $35

-Domaine de Grapillon d'Or 1806 Gigondas 2010, Vintages upcoming

-Domaine de Grapillon d'Or 1806 Gigondas 2009

-Domaine de Grapillon d'Or 1806 Gigondas 2007, $31.95 Vintages

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-La Ferme de Mont Cotes du Rhone Blanc La Truffiere 2009, 13.5%

-Penfolds St. Henri Shiraz 2006, 14.5%

-Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 2002, 13.5%

 

The Food: The food was Rhone/Provence, so the wines matched that theme with grape varieties or regions. We began with sweet and savoury nuts and herbed black olives, followed by water chestnuts wrapped in Rowe Farm bacon. All of these with the sparklers and the Tavel; the latter went best of course. To the table and some hand-cut foie gras and chutney with lovely Muscat Beaumes de Venise, slightly off-sweet here. The Asian pear shrimp salad was lovingly presented with Romaine spears and a Marie Rose sauce in a plastic double Martini glass, very effective. The Cotes du Rhone Blanc offered bracing fruit and acidity for the pear. Out came the main: huge braised Australian lamb shanks and their mirepoix, truffled mash, and roasted parsnips (cut lengthwise). It took forever to consume (they were tender, but they were big), and then we needed the time and space for nine red wines to taste and match. I needed help with extra shank meat, but I got through it before the honeyed figs and pistachio ice cream with biscuit arrived. There was a floral Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc with this course, delightful in its structure.

The Downside: it was a slippery and slid-y icy night, plus there were four other wines that we never got to.

The Upside: A range of five Gigondas for tasting.

The Contact Person: deantudor@deantudor.com

The Event's Execution (numerical grade): 95.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

SOME NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH --

 

1. Antoine Moueix Merlot Bordeaux 2010, +245860 GL LCBO, $12.95, an easy drinking affordable Bordeaux, twist top, 13.5% ABV, from a Saint Emilion specialist. Young vines give it a characteristic light tannic finish, but it could go either way as a sipper or with food

 

2. 181 Merlot Lodi 2008, +226530 GL LCBO, $16.95, another easy drinking merlot from California. The number 181 refers to the Merlot clone imported from Pomerol; the wine emphasizes its roots. Best as a sipper.

 

3. Mionetto Il Prosecco NV, +588053 GL LCBO, $11.95, weighing in at 10.5% ABV and with a crown cap, this newest addition to the growing list of proseccos in Ontario meets a demand for lower price and lower alcohol. The category has apparently exploded last year, up 16% across Canada. No cork means a lower wholesale price to the LCBO. Off-dry, frizzante style, aperitif or party wine.

 

4. Cantine Clavesana D'Oh Dolcetto di Dogliani 2010 Piemonte, $12.95 GL LCBO, +268037, is a welcomed addition, principally because of its fruitiness. It'll give Beaujolais a run for its money at 12.5% ABV. 90% of the company's production is Dolcetto (the co-op has 350 vintners), and 90% of all that is for domestic sales – so only 10% is exported. Expect warm red fruit tones, very useful as a sipper.

 

5. Mountain Road Wine Company Chardonnay 2007 Unoaked Niagara, +700067 Winery Only, $14.95: orchard fruit, good long finishing acid, highly extractive body, more like an aging Chablis. 13.7% ABV. An aperitif wine.

 

6. Mountain Road Wine Company Chardonnay Barrel Fermented 2006 Niagara, Winery Only, $15.95: one of my fave wines, aromatically positive, expressive Euro mode, good creamy oaking, food wine, long finish, maturing well (over five years now). Best with cheese, fish and chicken. 13.9% ABV. First Prize Ribbon at Royal Winter Fair in 2010.

 

7. Mountain Road Wine Company Chardonnay Reserve 2006 VQA Beamsville Bench, Winery Only, $25.95: typical baked apple and tropical fruit, butter, vanilla, caramel and cream, highly extractive, some underbrush, rich and fat. Body leads to good mouthfeel on the mid-palate. Cuvee 2010 Gold Medalist.

 

8. Mountain Road Wine Company Vidal Icewine 1999 VQA Steve Kocsis Vineyard Beamsville Bench, 375 mL, +977049, Winery Only, $39.95: tropical fruit, oranges and honey, but acidity balances sweetness, leading to a rich long finish. Considering its age, this is a bargain wine. It got a Lieutenant-Governor's Award 2011 for Excellence in Ontario Wine.

 

9. Tokaji Yellow Muscat 2010 Puklus Cellars Hungary (+46508 Vintages, $14.95 retail, 750 mL, Vintages January): related to Muscat Blanc, from older vines, done up in Late Harvest style, with that peachy complexity, medium-bodied, but with lemons and pineapple acidity on the longer finish. Floral aromatics. 12% ABV, a bit less this year. Serve with later courses (fruity mains, salads, cheeses, off-dry desserts).

 

10, Santa Rita Medalla Real Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Maipo (+275594 Vintages, $19.95 retail): offers immense value, with its deep black fruit (cherry-berry), vanilla, toast, some anise, very French like. 5% Cabernet Franc added, 14.5% ABV, aged 14 months in mixed-use oak barrels, ready to consume now. All the grapes come form 15-year-old low yield vines of Alto Jahuel in Maipo.

 

11. Rodney Strong Vineyards Chardonnay Reserve Russian River Valley Sonoma 2009 ($34.95 b consignment, Mark Anthony): with 14.5% ABV, this baked apple and vanilla-driven white leaves a long, buttery finish. Lees stirring has promoted creaminess. There is something here for all Chardonnay lovers, or at least for those who dislike stainless steel. Barrel fermentation in French oak (one-quarter new), all malolactic, and 13 months aging.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com