Search This Blog

Tuesday, June 16, 2009

* DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH! * "The Wine Trials"

* DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH! *
  ++++++++++++++++++++++
 
1. THE WINE TRIALS (Fearless Critic, 2008; distr. T.Allen, 189 pages,
ISBN 978-0974014357, $14.95 US soft covers) is by Robin Goldstein, with
Alexis Nerschkowitsch. Both have food and wine credentials, in addition
to authoring restaurant review books and travel books. They have been
assisted by eight named contributing writers and 500 named blind
tasters. The object of the book is to come up with hidden wine values.
The cover proclaims "brown-bag blind tastings reveal the surprising
wine values under $15". That's $15 US, of course, and does not allow
for discounts and sales so prevalent in the US marketplace. For
example, top rated Segura Viudas Brut Reserva (no. 5 in the sparkling
category) is $8 US national retail. It can be cheaper. In Ontario, it
is $14.95, a firm price. So it is possible that a top rated US wine at
$20, going on sale for under $15, could be well over $30 in Ontario.
Most of the wines sold in Ontario are under $25 – the trick is to find
the best ones. This book should give some guidance. They list 100 wines
under $15 US that outscored $50 to $150 bottles, using hundreds of
blind tasters who filled in a simple form. Looking at the pictures of
the tasters, I'd have to say that most were young. Nothing wrong with
that, except maybe a lack of experience. Nevertheless, the bottom line
for us is the presentation of the top 100 wines. Values available in
Ontario include Alamos Malbec from Argentina, Aveleda Vinho Verde from
Portugal, Black Box Cabernet Sauvignon from California, Campo Viejo
Rioja from Spain, the Cono Sur range from Chile, Georges Duboeuf
Beaujolais-Villages, Guigal Cotes du Rhone (under $10 US but $18.80 in
Ontario), Mouton Cadet, Osborne Solaz from Spain, and more. The authors
have lots of material justifying their choices, and there are copious
notes for each of the 100 wines. Appendices detail the designs of the
experiment, the forms, and the statistical conclusions.
Audience and level of use: those looking for good wine values.
Some interesting or unusual facts: The book goes on at great length to
debate the premise that expensive wines taste good because you know
that they are expensive, and cheaper wines taste cheap.
The downside to this book: only about half the wines are available in
Ontario, and many are not value priced because of the exchange rate,
the LCBO markup policy and lack of sales/discounts.
The upside to this book: good scientific arguments here to probe the
cost factor
Quality/Price Rating: 91.
 
 

No comments: