Mar 5/11 LCBO Vintages Releases - some notes

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR MARCH 5, 2011
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is a guide to
thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers
and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1995. My tastings are based on
MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price
Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE:
The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine
writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not available for re-
tasting.

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Fog Head Highlands Reserve Chardonnay 2009 Monterey County Highland
Series: a restaurant-styled wine, initially floral then fruity, toasty
and vanilla finish. Off-dry on the mid-palate. More a sipper. 13.5%
ABV. +158568, $17.95, QPR: 90.
2. Amaral Cool Climate Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Leyda Valley Chile:
minerality and citric tones (mainly lime, maybe rangpur as well) along
with modal character of grass and herbs, long long finish, fairly young
vines. 14.5% ABV. Gold Medalist. +48025, $14.95, QPR: 91.
3. Thelema Sutherland Sauvignon Blanc 2008 Elgin South Africa: some
floral quality, along with minerals and food-length finish. 13% ABV.
+203877, $13.95, QPR: 90.
4. Willy Gisselbrecht Tradition Pinot Gris 2008 Alsace: off-dry palate,
spicy body, dense, finishes dry. +641597, $16.95, QPR: 90.
5. Chateau de la Greffiere Macon-La Roche Vineuse 2009: ripe, dense,
mandarin orange flavours. 13% ABV. Gold Medalist. Bargain price.
+205898, $14.95, QPR: 90.
TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Tabali Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Limari Valley: concentrated
flavours, lovely development, great price. +58446, $14.95, QPR: 90.2. Cline Los Carneros Syrah 2006 Sonoma County: very spicy and
reminiscent of Northern Rhone, some age behind it at this point.
+955435, $17.95, QPR: 90
3. Santa Carolina Reserva de Familia Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Maipo:
concentrated flavours of chocolate, pepper. A year in French oak. First
class cabernet sauvignon. 14.5% ABV. +684597, $15, QPR: 91.
4. Henry's Drive Pillar Box Reserve Shiraz 2008 Padthaway South
Australia: tight, lean, concentrated black fruit. Peppery and herby.
15% ABV. +90324, $19.95, QPR: 90.
5. Chateau Haut-Cantiroy 2008 Graves: good development, maturing
nicely, earthy, smooth finish. +205559, $17.95, QPR: 90.
6. Chateau Hyot 2006 Cotes de Castillon: red fruit, merlot-driven,
great price, 12.5% ABV, gold medalist. +63537, $14.95, QPR: 90.
7. Mas des Bressades Cuvee Tradition 2009 Costieres de Nimes: syrah
really comes through, tarry, anise, mocha, good price. 13.5% ABV.
+143099, $14.95, QPR: 90.
8. Vecchia Cantina Terre di Rubinoro Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2006:
nicely aged, nicely done. It has been awhile since the LCBO has had a
modestly priced VNM. +206862, $17.95, QPR: 89.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1. Charles Baker Picone Vineyard Riesling 2008 VQA Vinemount Ridge
Niagara, +126433, $35.20 retail.
2. Rodney Strong Reserve Chardonnay 2007 Russian River Sonoma County,
+210039, $34.95.
3. Astrolabe Voyage Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Marlborough, +10421, $21.95.
4. Gautheron Chablis 2008, +207902, $22.95.
5. Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler Riesling Spatlese 2008 QmP Wehlener Sonnenuhr,
+197186, $21.95.
6. Ridge Santa Cruz Mountains Estate 2006, +89284, $44.95.
7. Rodney Strong Merlot 2006 Sonoma County, +497933, $22.95.
8. Calera Pinot Noir 2008 Central Coast, +933044, $32.95.
9. Two Hands Lily's Garden Shiraz 2008 McLaren Vale South Australia,
+683086, $54.95.
10. Selection Laurence Feraud Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2007, +211474,
$42.95.
11. Marques de Murrieta Finca Ygay Reserva 2005 Rioja, +209148, $24.95.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

* THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...

...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback
reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher
a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will
reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will
rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text
while keeping the focus tight. Here are some recent "re-editions"...

 

18. A FEAST FOR ALL SEASONS; traditional native peoples' cuisine
(Arsenal Pulp Press, 2010, 151 pages, ISBN 978-1-55152-368-2, $24.95
CAD soft covers) is by Andrew George Jr. and Robert Gairns. George was
most recently head chef at the Four Host First Nations pavilion at the
2010 Winter Olympics. He was also involved with the World Culinary
Olympics as part of the first all-Native team in the competition's
history. He instructs at the Kla-how-eya cooking school. Gairns is a
writer-playwright. The book was earlier published as "Feast!" by
Doubleday Canada in 1997. It's part memoir (updated, of course) and
part cookbook, with 120 recipes that feature foods from native areas of
Canada, such as salmon and fiddleheads, wild duck, oysters, beaver, and
bear. It is a unique book: the original was well-worn and tattered-
splattered through many kitchens over the past 13 years. The emphasis
is on "feast" foods and ceremonies, for a gathering small or large; it
could even be a family dinner. There are cultural food notes, with
specific material about the salmon harvest, bannock, and wild rice.
Half of the recipes are in the seasonal menus beginning with autumn;
the other half are from the waters, the earth, land and the skies. The
eight menus have page references to the recipes used. You'll need
access to a lot of wild food in order to do these recipes. Preparations
have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois
measurements, but there is no metric table of equivalents. Try moose
chili or moose cutlets, wild goose stuffed with apples, smoked salmon
on bannock fingers, seafood chowder, spirit braid seafood platter, and
any of the delicious soups. Quality/price rating: 89.

 

19. WHY ITALIANS LOVE TO TALK ABOUT FOOD (Farrar, Straus and Giroux,
2006, 2010, 449 pages, ISBN 978-0-374-53253-6 $18 US soft covers) is by
Elena Kostioukovitch, a translator (Umberto Eco) and essayist. It was
originally published in Italian in 2006, and then in English in 2009.
This is its paperback reprint edition, with log rolling by Jacques
Pepin and Tom Colicchio. It is billed as "a journey through Italy's
regional cuisines". Each region is discussed with its history,
geography and culture as it all pertains to food. Wine is not covered,
although Campari is mentioned. Each area has a set of sidebars which
lists dishes, food ingredients and drinks. It's an academic book, with
an extensive 23 page bibliography, end notes, and two food sections:
cooking methods in English for an Italian phrase, and pairings of pasta
shapes with sauces. It's a good book, long on culture and Mediterranean
Diet and Slow Food (as well as pilgrims and Jews), but I still don't
see WHY Italians love to talk about food. Quality/price rating: 90.

 

20. HOW BAKING WORKS. 3rd edition (John Wiley & Sons, 2010, 516 pages,
ISBN 978-0-470-39267-6, $45 US soft covers) is by Paula Figoni, a
professor at the College of Culinary Arts at Johnson & Wales University
in Providence, Rhone Island. She had earlier worked for the Pillsbury
Company. The first edition was created for students in 2003. This
latest version incorporates changes on health and wellness in baking
(special diets, food sensitivities, food allergies), changes due to the
switch away from trans fats, changes in the student exercises and
experiments, more questions, drawing and charts, and some simplified
explanations for the chemistry behind such functions as emulsification.
A useful book for both students and short-order cooks. Quality/price
rating: 86.

 

21. ANJUM'S NEW INDIAN (Alhambra Editions, 2010, 256 pages, ISBN 978-1-
84400-954-1, $14.95 CAD soft covers) is by Anjum Anand, who hosts the
TV show "Indian Food Made Easy" in the UK. Here, she collates many
recipes from her best-selling book based on the TV show which has the
same title, along with some fave regional Indian dishes. The emphasis
is on light, modern, and simple Indian food. There are over 100 dishes
here, arranged by ingredient (fish, meat, beans, etc.) with separate
chapters for snacks, light meals, desserts, drinks and chutneys. There
is also a short discourse on regional foods, common ingredients, and
basic recipes for masala, yogurt, and paneer. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no metric
table of equivalents. Because of the "perfect" binding, the book is
awkward when open, so be careful. What works well in this basic book?
Tomato-poached eggs, quick brad and veggie stir-fry, chicken dhansak,
Bengali fish stew, mung lentil curry, Punjabi lamb chops. Quality/price
rating: 86.

 

22. MAKING SENSE OF WINE TASTING; your essential guide to enjoying
wine. 5th ed. (Wine Appreciation Guild, 2010; distr. by McArthur & Co.,
174 pages, ISBN 978-1-891267-03-1, $34.95 CAD soft covers) is by Alan
Young, founder of the International Wine Academy, based in San
Francisco. This is his 19th book; it was first published in London
England in 1986 and has been revised and updated several times. Paul
Rigby contributes some engaging and hilarious cartoons, while Robert
("Himself") Parker Jr. gives some log rolling. The emphasis is on
sight, touch, smell and taste (but can't you also hear the bubbles in
crackling wine? Just wondering…). New this edition is the concept of
umami. There are photos, cartoons, charts, and highlighted passages
(for the kernel material). Plus there are plenty of exercises for self-
study pr as part of a class experience. In addition, there's ancillary
material on glassware, wine judging, setups, and bibliographies for
further reading. This is a must read. Quality/price rating: 92.

 

 

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

February 2011: Some new wines to taste

1. Mission Hill Family Estate Winery sent me some 2009 samples, and
their cover letter suggested that the wines would be appropriate for a
Holiday Dinner over Christmas. So I tried them that way. First up was
Mission Hill Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2009 Okanagan ($19.95 Vintages),
with its traditional MVC style for a subdued grassy Savvy. On the
palate, there was a certain creaminess or unctuousness cause by barrel
fermentation of a small parcel of the wine. It went well with our
appetizers and salads. The main course was turkey, and Mission Hill
Chardonnay Reserve 2009 Okanagan ($19.95 Vintages Essential) went
first, followed by the Mission Hill Pinot Noir Five Vineyards 2009
Okanagan ($16.45 LCBO General List). The white was coolish climate
style, and despite partial BF and BA (on lees for seven months), it was
smooth and well-balanced without oaky spices. Just a little vanilla to
temper the citrus acidity. Don't over-chill this wine; in fact, serve
it at the same cool temperature as the Pinot Noir, which showed red
fruit, finishing tannins, and some underbrush. It was all fermented in
French oak barrels for 7.5 months. Dinner concluded with the opulent
Mission Hill Riesling Icewine 2009 Okanagan (about $60, not yet
available in Ontario), 8.5% ABV, succulent orange and peach flavours
that may perhaps need some more aging time to resolve the sweetness.
Fatty cheeses were provided for the long, over-the-top finish.
 
2. From the Kolonaki Group (sales@kolonakigroup.com):
-Sula Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Nashik Estate +660209, $11.95
Vintages: a neighbour raved about this wine. She had some of it in
India (the country of origin), and retried it at my place. It's lightly
herby with bracing acidity. It went well with our pesto pizza. 13.5%
ABV, twist top.
-Eradus Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Marlborough Awatere Valley +225557, $17.95
Vintages April 30/11: stony terraces gave this herbaceous-fruity wine
an oomph on the finish with concentrated minerality. 13% ABV, twist
top.
The agency is principally known for Greek wines such as –
-Boutari Grand Reserve 2004 Naoussa +140111, $16.95 Vintages April
30/11: from the xinomavro grape variety, 13% ABV. Somewhat gamey with
underbrush and earthy components, but well-concentrated fruit flavours
for food. Oak aged, approachable in the mid-palate.
-Boutari Santorini 2009 +47985, $15.95 Vintages April 16/11: full-
bodied, affordable version of wine from the white assyrtiko grape
variety. Expect citrus and minerals, some bracing acidity, much like a
Chablis. 13.5% ABV. Best with seafood.

 

3. ST. DONATUS IRSAI OLIVÉR BALATONLELLEI Garamvári Vineyard
2009 Hungary, VINTAGES  +12070, $12.95: 12.5% ABV. Irsai Olivér is a
cross between the Pozsony and Pearl of Csaba grapes. Floral, Muscat-y
and mint-scented. Useful on its own, or with Asiatic dishes. Perhaps
best in the summer, so buy now.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

Jan 30/11: Equifera Icewine by Ziraldo launches at Rosewater in Toronto

The Time and Date: Sunday January 30, 2011  6PM to 7 PM
The Event: Launch of Equifera Icewine by Donald Ziraldo, CM
The Venue: Rosewater Restaurant
The Target Audience: friends and wine media.
The Availability/Catalogue: Equifera Estate Icewine is available
through Mondia Alliance agents.
The Quote/Background: Equifera Estate is across the road from Henry of
Pelham winery, and is owned by Kruger Wines who also make Pinot Noir
and Chardonnay. Donald Ziraldo was asked to make an icewine for them.
The Wines: There were 650 cases of the 2009 Riesling ($69 for 375 mL:
bracing, lush, firm citric tones on longer finish), 1500 cases of the
2008 Vidal ($49, not tasted because Chef at Rosewater used the
allotment for cooking later that night), and 200 cases of Cabernet
Franc ($ n/a, limited supply).
The Food: platters were devoted to three recipes from Ziraldo's book
"Icewine". We had copious quantities of such amuse bouche as truffled
cream of cauliflower soup with icewine; icewine marinated pork
medallions with a corn-crusted onion ring; and an icewine and thyme
grilled fig salad with gorgonzola and sherry vinaigrette.
The Downside: it was a cold night outside, but then that's icewine for
you…
The Upside: the event nicely dovetailed with an Opera in Concert at the
St. Lawrence Centre that just concluded 20 minutes before, and I was
able to bring my wife along.
The Contact Person: dziraldo@hotmail.com
The Marketing Effectiveness of this Event (numerical grade): 95.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

Feb 19/11: LCBO Vintages Release (some notes)

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR  FEBRUARY 19, 2011
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is a guide to
thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers
and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1995. My tastings are based on
MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price
Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE:
The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine
writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not available for re-
tasting.

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Calamus Unoaked Chardonnay 2008 Niagara: juicy, ripe, long finish.
Twist top. +210062, $13.95, QPR: 90.
2. Alamos Viognier 2010 Mendoza: plenty of orchard fruit and flowers
here, long fruity finish. +507830, $13.95, QPR: 90.
3. Emiliana Adobe Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Casablanca Valley: ripe peachy
flavours come across with the citrus-herby zest. Sipper? Organic wine.
+211912, $12.95, QPR: 89.
4. Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Marlborough: zesty, balanced, long
finish, enjoyable Loire-ish wine. Sip or with food. Gold Medalist.
+686675, $15.95, QPR: 90.
5. Domaine Saint-Remy reserve Gewurztraminer 2008 Alsace: a climate-
change wine, with more off-dry MVC for the variety. Slight bitterish
finish, but dense and concentrated flavours and body. +61150, $18.95,
QPR: 91.
6. Domaines Schlumberger Les Princes Abbes Riesling 2007 Alsace: long
riesling finish with good MVC. Delightful. Best with food. +981662,
$18.95, QPR: 89.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Ironstone Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 California: a rock-steady value
wine, hitting all the California cabby notes. +537597, $17.95, QPR: 89.
2. Michel Torino Don David Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Cafayate
Valley Mendoza: high quality cab sauvignon (black currants, vanilla,
pepper) at this price. +974428, $12.95, QPR: 89.
3. Cathedral Cellar Triptych 2007 WO Coast Region South Africa: a value
blend of Bordeaux varieties with syrah, aged in new oak (on the nose),
mocha, cassis, and eucalyptus. +53124, $16.95, QPR: 90.
4. Chateau Saint-Roch Chimeres 2008 Cotes du Roussillon-Villages: 65
grenache/30 syrah/5 carignane blend, 14.5% ABV, off-dry finish. Late
winter BBQs?
5. Chateau Goudray Cuvee Excellence Rasteau 2009 Cotes du Rhone-
Villages: lovely black fruit from syrah and grenache, plums, smoke, and
the like. 14.5% ABV. Gold Medalist. +195032, $15.95, QPR: 90.
6. Louis Bernard Reserve de Bonpas Cotes du Rhone 2009: a G-S-M but
heavy syrah-inflected in flavours, 14% ABV. +194969, $13.95, QPR: 90.
7. Tommasi Poggio al Tufo Rompicollo 2008 IGT Maremma Toscana: lots of
black and dark flavours from berries and fruits, delicious length and
complexity. Italianate. +13755, $17.95, QPR: 90.
8. Herdade Paco do Conde 2007 Alentejano: lots of mocha but not off-dry
on mid-palate. Sip or food this treasure. +131821, $14.95, QPR: 90.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1. Lailey Vineyard Canadian Oak Chardonnay 2009 Niagara River, +225474,
$24.95 retail.
2. Davis Bynum Chardonnay 2007 Russian River Valley, +205815, $24.95.
3. Domaine Masson-Blondelet Villa Paulus Pouilly-Fume 2008, +702878,
$24.95.
4. Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate Proprietors' Grand Reserve Shiraz
2006, +33241, $24.95.
5. Candor Lot 2 Zinfandel California, +133389, $21.95.
6. Christian Moueix Napanook 2007 Napa, +212357, $53.95.
7. Yalumba The Signature Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz 2005, +528356,
$51.95.
8. Abbazia Barolo 2005, +189787, $28.95.
9. Zenato Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2006, +413179, $47.95.
10. Jean Leon Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Penedes, +401596, $28.95.

Jan 26/11: Autochthonous wines from Appellation Wines Agency

The Time and Date: Wednesday, January 26, 2011   2 to 4:30 PM
The Event: Sampling autochthonous wines available from Ken Hayden of
Appellation Wines.
The Venue: Jam Café, Cabbagetown
The Target Audience: wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: the wines are drawn from his Consignment
catalogue; Ken specializes in sourcing indigenous grape varieties from
France, Spain and Italy.
The Quote/Background: It is a trend now to produce indigenous grape
varieties in small lots, for there will always be a market for these
types of grapes.
The Wines: All wines are available though the Consignment program, some
prices are being sorted out, but mostly under $20.

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-2005 Vera de Estenas Casa Don Angel Bobal DO, Utiel-Requena, Spain
(red) $36.10 (my fave)
-2009 Emilio Bulfon Cjanòrie VDT, Friuli, Italy (red) $21.05
-2009 Rebus Ruche di Castagnole Monferrato DOC, Piedmont, Italy (red)

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-2007 Chateau Lecusse Cuvee Speciale Fer Servadou AGC, Gaillac, France
(red) $16.95 Gold Medalist
-2007 Vinedos y Bodegas Pablo Menguante Vidadillo DO, Carinena, Spain
(red)
-2009 Emilio Bulfon Sciaglin IGT, Friuli, Italy (white) $21.05
-2009 Emilio Bulfon Forgiarin IGT, Friuli, Italy (red) $21.05
-2009 Emilio Bulfon Piculit Neri IGT, Friuli, Italy (red) $22.91
-2008 Pravis Negrara IGT, Trentino Alto Adige, Italy (red) $21.36
-2009 Nivascio Piemonte Brachwetto DOC, 6% ABV, sparkling red

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-2008 Vins Plageoles Mauzac Vert AGC, Gaillac, France (white) $21.45
-2009 Chateau Cransac N Resolument Negrette AFC, Fronton, France (red)
$19.05
-2008 Anna Spinato Raboso IGT, Veneto, Italy (red) $16.90
-2009 La Martana Monferrato Freisa (vivace) DOC, Piedmont, Italy (red)
-2009 Le Nocche Grignolino d'Asti DOC, Piedmont, Italy (red)

 

The Food: prosciutto, cheeses, breads.
The Downside: I was stymied, trying to compare varieties with varieties
I knew well, as a touchstone.
The Upside: a rare opportunity to taste a variety of wines, well-made
but with different tastes.
The Contact Person: kenhayden@appellationwines.ca
The Marketing Effectiveness of this Event (numerical grade): 90.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

Jan 27/11: Rhone Valley wine tasting at George.

The Time and Date: Thursday, Jan 27, 2011  11 AM to 3 PM
The Event: "Come to explore the Wine Region of the Year...Rhone Valley
Wines."
The Venue: George Restaurant
The Target Audience: wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: tasted wines came from the LCBO and
Vintages listings.
The Quote/Background: Christian Paly, President of Inter Rhône, Arnaud
Pignol, Commissioner General of Inter-Rhône and Olivier Legrand, Export
Marketing Manager of Inter Rhône came to Toronto to meet major
journalists in an informal and friendly Rhône Valley wines tasting.
There was a short slide presentation and some talks on the quality of
Rhone wines.
The Wines:

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Chateau Mas Neuf Costieres de Nimes 2008, +177097, $11.35 - brett
-Dom. Courbis Les Eygats Cornas 2007, +719385, $59

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Jean-Luc Colombo Les Lauves Saint Joseph 2007, +943324, $31.95
-Reserve Perrin Cotes du Rhone Blanc 2009, +499509, $14.95
-La Vieille Ferme Luberon Blanc 2009, +298505, $11.95
-Ogier Cotes de Ventoux Rose 2009, +134916, $10.95
-Domaine des Carteresses Tavel Rose 2009, +739474, $15.95
-Ogier Cotes de Ventoux Rouge 2008, +569095, $10.95
-Chapoutier Rasteau Cotes du Rhone Villages 2008, +321539, $17.95
-Domaine Autrand Cotes du Rhone Villages 2007, +200030, $14.95

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Louis Bernard Cotes du Rhone Blanc 2009, +589432, $11.65
-Cuvee Tableau Tavel Rose 2008, +117309, $18.98
-Louis Bernard Cotes du Rhone Rouge 2009, +581645, $12.15
-Visan Cotes du Rhone Villages 2007, +179226, $13.95
-Domaine de Pierredon Cotes du Rhone 2008, +175257, $13.95

 

The Food: the tasting was followed by a lunch, and we could re-taste
all the wines that we wanted. With BC rock shrimp (with Belgian endive
and Brazil nut curry) I had Le Vielle Ferme Luberon Blanc 2009. The
duck breast and duck confit duo (with barley risotto and broccoli)
screamed out for the brett-inflected Chateau Mas Neuf 2008. The beef
tenderloin paired very well with the still evolving Les Eygats Cornas
2007. Cheeses, dark chocolate beignets, and coffee completed the long
lunch.
The Downside: we started late because winter blizzards delayed the
principals' arrival in Toronto from New York city, where the Rhone
Valley had just won Wine Enthusiast's "Wine Region of the Year" award.
The Upside: I really liked the Chateau Mas Neuf's price for the brett
component. A little goes a long way, and the wine had sufficient brett
to make it interesting and gamey.
The Contact Person: Johanna.raynaud@sopexa.com
The Marketing Effectiveness of this Event (numerical grade): 88.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

Jan 25/11: Union des Grand Crus de Bordeaux parades 2008 wines in Toronto

The Time and Date: Tuesday January 25, 2011  2 PM to 4 PM
The Event: Discover Bordeaux 2008; Union des Grand Crus de Bordeaux
Taste and Buy, sponsored by LCBO Vintages.
The Venue: Four Seasons Hotel
The Target Audience: trade show in afternoon, consumers at night,
purchases only on the spot.
The Availability/Catalogue: there were over 100 wines from over 70
chateaux available for instant purchase in three-bottle lots.
The Quote/Background: It was a mixed vintage, with many green flavours
scattered through the cabernet franc- and sauvignon-based Left Bank
wines. St. Julien was a shade higher. The merlot wines were more
successful (St. Emilion and Pomerol).
The Wines:  I did not try the Sauternes. Prices are retail.

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Smith Haute Lafitte 2008 Blanc, $115
-Latour Martillac 2008 Blanc, $147
-Pape Clement 2008 Blanc, $265
-Angélus 2008, $299
-Canon La Gaffelière 2008, $85
-Pape Clement 2008 Rouge, $175
-Beychevelle 2008, $59
-Gruaud-Larose 2008, $95
-La Gaffelière 2008, $79
-Cantemerle 2008, $38
-Citran 2008, $25
-Dauzac 2008, $62
-Lascombes 2008, $79
-Malescot Saint-Exupery 2008, $59
-Prieure-Lichine 2008, $65
-Leoville-Barton 2008, $149
-Léoville Poyferré 2008, $84
-Pichon Longueville Baron 2008, $115

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Figeac 2008, $109
-Clos Fourtet 2008, $72
-Troplong-Mondot 2008, $115
-Gazin 2008, n/a
-Lagrange 2008, $59
-Batailley 2008, $55
-Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 2008, $109
-Lafon-Rochet 2008, $54
-Rahoul 2008 Rouge, $25
-Domaine de Chevalier 2008 Blanc, $119
-Larrivet Haut-Brion 2008 Rouge, $49
-Malartic-Lagraviere 2008 Blanc, $99
-Pape Clement 2008 Rouge, $175
-Trotte Vieille 2008, $99
-Clinet 2008, $219
-La Conseillante 2008, $109
-Fourcas-Hosten 2008, $26
-Chasse-Spleen 2008, $39
-Belgrave 2008, $35
-La Lagune 2008, $85
-La Tour Carnet 2008, $45
-Durfort-Vivens 2008, $49
-Giscours 2008, $59
-Kirwan 2008, $69
-Marquis de Terme 2008, $45
-Rauzan-Segla 2008, $99
-Haut-Bages-Liberal 2008, $44
-Beaumont 2008, $22
-Langoa-Barton 2008, $59
-Talbot 2008, $65
-Clerc Milon 2008, $59
-D'Armailhac 2008, $52
-Lynch-Bages 2008, $189
-De Pez 2008, $39

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Chantegrive Blanc 2008, $33
-Chantegrive 2008 Rouge, $25
-Rahoul 2008 Blanc, $25
-Bouscaut 2008 Rouge, $35
-Carbonnieux 2008 Blanc, $55
-Carbonnieux 2008 Rouge, $49
-Domaine de Chevalier 2008 Rouge, $65
-Fieuzal 2008 Blanc, $75
-Fieuzal 2008 Rouge, $42
-Haut-Bailly 2008, $95
-Haut-Bergey 2008, $39
-Larrivet Haut-Brion 2008 Blanc, $62
-Latour-Martillac 2008 Rouge, $45
-Malartic-Lagraviere 2008 Rouge, $59
-Smith Haut Lafitte 2008 Rouge, $79
-Beau-Sejour Becot 2008, $75
-Canon 2008, $99
-Dassault 2008, $49
-Grand Mayne 2008, $64
-Cos-Labory 2008, $49
-La Couspaude 2008, $65
-La Dominique 2008, $59
-Berliquet 2008, $49
-Larcis Ducasse 2008, $125
-Beauregard 2008, $49
-Poujeaux 2008, $39
-Greysac 2008, $26
-La Tour de By 2008, $28
-Brane-Cantenac 2008, $59
-du Terte 2008, $45
-Labegorce 2008, $39
-Ferriere 2008, $39
-Branaire Ducru 2008, $63
-Saint-Pierre 2008, $65
-Lynch-Moussas 2008, $45
-Grand Puy Ducasse 2008, $49
-Ormes de Pez 2008, $38
-Phelan Segur 2008, $49

 

The Food: cheese platters, breads, dried fruit, grapes.
The Downside: a mouth full of tannin after it was all over.
The Upside: a chance to re-evaluate the 2008 Bordeaux vintage.
The Contact Person: trina.hendry@lcbo.com
The Marketing Effectiveness of this Event (numerical grade): 92.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

Feb 5/11: LCBO Vintages Release (some notes)

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR FEBRUARY 5, 2011
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com.
My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is a guide to
thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers
and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1995. My tastings are based on
MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price
Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE:
The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine
writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not available for re-
tasting.

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Calina Chardonnay Reserva 2009 Casablanca/Limari Valleys: tropical
fruit and lumber for the woodies, nice balance, great sipper. +640912,
$15.95, QPR: 89.
2. Zilzie Murray Darling Regional Collection Chardonnay 2009 Victoria:
loaded with goodness, oak, whiff of tropicality, toast-butter-vanilla.
Decent price. +186411, $17.95, QPR: 90.
3. La Cave de Sigolsheim Reserve Particuliere Muscat 2008 Alsace: dry
muscat tones, excellent body, flowers and orchard fruit. Gold Medalist.
+202408, $15.95, QPR: 90.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Diamond Ridge Zinfandel 2007 Howell Mountain Napa: balanced and
well-integrated MVC zinfandel complexity, good price. +205781, $17.95,
QPR: 90.
2. Our Daily Red 2009 California: very good basic blended red wine,
reminiscent of the South of France. Fully Organic. +203851, $14.95,
QPR: 89.
3. Columbia Crest H3 Merlot 2007 Horse Heaven Hills Columbia Valley:
hefty, chunky merlot featuring both red and black berries, drying out
nicely on the finish. 14.5% ABV. +209874, $19.95, QPR: 89.
4. R.J. Vinedos Pasion 4 Merlot 2008 Uco Valley Mendoza: North American
styled merlot, with mocha and smoke, black currants, long finish.
+59287, $12.95, QPR: 90.
5. Wyndham Estate George Wyndham Founder's Reserve Shiraz 2007
Langhorne Creek: deliciously black (mocha, berries, eucalyptus), wood
on finish. Needs food. 14% ABV. +107904, $19.95, QPR: 90.
6. Chateau Le Grand Moulin 2008 Premieres Cotes de Blaye: an MVC
Bordeaux bargain for a Gold Medalist. Smoke, toast, black fruit,
complex finish. +198994, $15.95, QPR: 90.
7. Domaine de Peyanne 2009 Saumur: good cab franc MVC, nice and tart
for food, some berries on the nose. +197038, $13.95, QPR: 89.
8. Domaine Gardies Mas Las Cabes Rouge 2009 Cotes de Roussillon: rich,
developing, balance of fruit, hot 14% ABV, lots of dense body. +194894,
$15.95, QPR: 89.
9. Diego Conterno Baluma Nebbiolo d'Alba 2008: poor man's Barolo, but
see also below at $26.95. Evolving nicely. +189829, $18.95, QPR: 89.
10. Tenuta Moraia Pietracupa Bolgheri 2007: cabernet makes this a
Bordeaux-styled wine, extremely beneficial price, long finish. +211458,
$18.95, QPR: 89.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1. Jean-Max Roger Cuvee C.M. Sancerre Blanc 2008, +196667, $24.95
retail.
2. Maison Kerlann Chablis 2008, +158964, $21.95.
3. Frog's Leap Merlot 2007 Rutherford Napa, +707489, $44.95.
4. Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Sonoma, +226944, $22.95.
5. Elderton Shiraz 2007 Barossa, +713024, $32.95.
6. Chateau Reysson 2005 Haut-Medoc, +199083, $21.95.
7. Abbona La Pieve Barolo 2005, +213132, $26.95.
8. Brancaia Tre 2007 IGT Toscana, +164715, $24.95.
9. Icario Vino Nobile di Monepulciano 2007, +203430, $31.95.
10. Isole e Olena Chianti Classico 2007, +704346, $26.95.
11. I Casteil Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2006, +739979, $34.95
12. Vina Vilano Reserva 2004 Ribera del Duero, +190736, $22.95.
13. Bodegas Lan Vina Lanciano Reserva 2004, +955096, $28.95.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

Dean Tudor, Ryerson University Journalism Professor Emeritus
Treasurer, Wine Writers' Circle of Canada
Look it up and you'll remember it; screw it up and you'll never forget it.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com