April 2/11: LCBO Vintages Release -- TOP Values

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR APRIL 2, 2011
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is a guide to
thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers
and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1995. My tastings are based on
MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price
Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE:
The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine
writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not available for re-
tasting.

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Pelee Island Winery Vendange Tardive Pinot Gris 2008 VQA Pelee
Island: dynamite focused almond and apricot flavours, late picked for
that off-dry character, concentrated body, unctuous. Well-priced, buy
it all. +0224196, $16.95, QPR: 92.
2. St. Lucas Torrontes 2010 Mendoza: the aromatic grape of Toronto!
Modest price for great fruit value. Where pinot gris should be, but
isn't. +694513, $11.95, QPR: 90.
2. Arboleda Chardonnay 2008 Casablanca: good balance of fruit-oak-acid.
Long finish, full bodied. +606772, $15.95, QPR: 90.
3. Chateau La Grave D'Arzac Blanc 2009 Graves: all Semillon, fabulous
texture and body, great fruit on palate, some sizzle on the finish for
food. +206714, $14.95, QPR: 90.
4. San Felice Perolla Vermentino 2009 IGT Maremma Toscana: soft,
forward, melons and citrus tones, thick body. I drank a lot of
vermentino during my three months on the Riviera. +222802, $15.95, QPR:
91.
 
TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Kaiken Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Mendoza: juicy and chewy, Euro
flavours are all there. +143248, $14.95, QPR: 90.
2. Errazuriz Single Vineyard Syrah 2008 Don Maximiano Estate Aconacagua
Valley: dynamite, full blown syrah component of character complementary
flavours. +211938, $19.95, QPR: 90.
3. Chateau Bellevue 2006 1er Cotes de Blaye: almost ready, MVC good
Bordeaux, lay down one year (will get better if you wait). +206649,
$14.95, QPR: 90.
4. Chateau La Verriere 2008 Bordeaux Superieur: fabulous price for a
Gold Medal winner, give it two years more, good investment. +199000,
$14.95, QPR: 90.
5. Roux Pere et Fils Cote de Beaune-Villages 2009: MVC for the region,
needs a bit of time (not before Christmas 2011) but all the burgundian
pinot tones are there. 13% ABV. +208520, $17.95, QPR: 90.
6. Barba Vignafranca Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2006: flavours galore from
this occasionally pussy-wussy grape variety. 13.5% ABV. +203984,
$17.95, QPR: 90.
7. Tommasi Arele Appassimento 2008 IGT Veronese: the Ripasso-style wine
flavour of the month from the LCBO. +224188, $17.95, QPR: 89.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1. Freestone Vineyards Ovation Chardonnay 2007 Sonoma Coast, +210302,
$39.95 retail.
2. Domaine Roux Pere et Fils Les Chaumes Chassagne-Montrachet 2009,
+208512, $38.95.
3. Michael David Petite Petit 2008 Lodi, +213017, $24.95.
4. Paul Hobbs Crossbarn Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, +118695, $34.95.
5. Saltram Mamre Brook Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Barossa, +48579, $24.95.
6. Domaine Daniel Rion Les Lavieres Nuits-Saint-Georges 2008, +208454,
$47.95.
7. Domaine Gille Cotes de Nuits-Villages 2008, +210864, $24.95.
8. Maison Roche de Bellene Beaune-Bressandes 1er Cru 2008, +208504,
$47.95.
9. San Cassiano Amarone Della Valpolicella 2006, +210799, $38.95.
10. Chateau Musar 2002 Bekaa Valley, +109413, $51.95.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

FOOD AND DRINK BOOKS IN REVIEW FOR MARCH 2011

3. BEER; a genuine collection of cans (Chronicle Books, 2011; distr.
Raincoast, 352 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-7541-7, $19.95 US paper covers)
is by Dan Becker and Lance Wilson. There are 480 beer cans here, all
with photos and short commentaries. They range from the earliest
Budweiser and Coors up through Pabst Big Cat Malt Liquor and St. Pauli
Girl. The cans come from collector Josh Russo; they are pictured
alphabetically by brand. The range is 80 years and 30 countries. Some
from the 1930s have rust spots, but no matter. You can still see the
label. The older cans had necks so the drinker could suck the beer back
as if from a bottle. My fave kinds for the cheap beers are listed under
"Generic": the no-name house brands for Price Chopper in the 1970s, or
"Beer" by Falstaff in the 1980s, and the lovely "Beer" from Pearl
Brewing in Texas (on the label its says, "Flavor and smoothness are
comparable to other beers. Advertising and packaging costs have been
minimized."). My favourite US beer was the no-name "Near Beer", lager
about 2.5% ABV, regularly selling at $1 a six-pack in the 1980s. In the
heat, you could drink it all day long with only a buzz.
Audience and level of use: beer can collectors.
The downside to this book: a little sparse on details on the history of
beer cans in general.
The upside to this book: nice photos.
Quality/Price Rating: 86.

 

 

 

4. ITALIAN COOKING AT HOME, with the Culinary Institute of America
(John Wiley & Sons, 2011, 328 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-18258-1, $34.95US
hard covers) has been written by Gianni Scappin, Alberto Vanoli, and
Steven Kolpan. All three teach at the CIA. Kolpan was responsible for
the wine notes. Every region is covered here in this book which
straddles – comfortably – Italian restos and home cooking. Both the
classics and regional specialties are here, such as tiramisu, erbazzone
(pancetta and Swiss chard), or pizzoccheri (buckwheat pasta and
cabbage) from Valtellina. After general notes on Italian food and wine,
it is arranged by type of dish or ingredient. There's spuntini (little
bites), conserve (preserves), crudi (raw), brodi (broths), minestre
(soups), pasta (both fresh and dry), gnocchi, risi (rice), pesci
(fish), carni (meats, only 30 pages), dolci (sweets). Most cheese and
wine notes are covered in the preliminary pages, but each dish gets a
set of wine notes from Kolpan (who has written many wines books).
Preparations have their ingredients listed only in avoirdupois
measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. At this
price level (it is currently on Amazon at $20.16US), and with the
definitive-type recipes from the CIA, it becomes a pretty nifty book,
with explicit and relatively easy-to-follow instructions. Try maccu
(fava been soup), ravioli di ricotta, sardine in casseruola, or pollo
al diavolo. Quality/price rating: 89.

 

 

 

 

 

5. MODERN BATCH COOKERY (John Wiley & Sons, 2011, 436 pages, ISBN 978-
0-470-29048-4, $65 US hard covers) is by Victor Gielisse and Ron
DeSantis, both of the Culinary Institute of America. It serves a need
for elegant, refined volume cooking at food service operations such as
restaurants, hotels, or catering firms. There's a lot of fusion-
international cuisine food here as well as nutritious-healthy food.
Just about everything is for fifty portions, and the home cook can
certainly take advantage of the book if he or she does a lot of
entertaining. Many items can be frozen or prepared in advance.
Certainly, the average restaurant can probably count on selling most of
50 portions of a dish if it is labeled "special of the day". Contents
include cooking techniques, stocks and sauces, preps for breakfast and
brunch, salads and sandwiches, entrees, side dishes, and desserts.
There is also a separate chapter for reception foods. There's also
primer material on creating a variety of flavours, labour intensity and
strategies, and costing. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
both metric avoirdupois measurements, but there are no tables of
equivalents. A dish such as chicken and shrimp gumbo, very popular
these days, calls for a half pound of andouille sausage, one pound of
chicken breasts, but 2 and a half pounds of shrimp. The trick would be
to make sure that each of 50 people gets some dices of sausage,
chicken, and shrimp. Also, the prep calls for both okra and file
powder, a distinct "no – no" in Cajun country (traditionally, you use
one or the other, but not both). Considering that it is for 50 people,
the photo of the plated product seems overly generous – 9.5 litres
total in the recipe, divided by 50 means 190 grams, just less than 7
ounces each. Better is the baby spinach, avocado and grapefruit salad.
There are a lot of sauce recipes here, good for flavouring. The book
ends with a glossary and a series of nutritional analyses for each dish
(why couldn't this be added to each prep in the main book?). Caveats
aside, it is useful for cooking for large crowds. Over 200 recipes,
many with photos. Quality/price rating: 86.

 

 

 

 

 

6. AROUND MY FRENCH TABLE; more than 300 recipes from my home to yours
(Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2010, 530 pages, ISBN 978-0-618-87553-5,
$40 US hard covers) is by Dorie Greenspan, a food writer, cookbook
author, and winner of a Beard (for "Baking: from my home to yours"). In
spite of these creds, the publisher still has four powerful log rollers
on the back cover – Ina "Barefoot Contessa" Garten, Patricia Wells,
David Lebovitz, and Adam Gopnik. The book's about a new generation of
French cooks and cookery, specifically women. The cuisine has been re-
invented and re-interpreted by Greenspan for our faster North American
lifestyle (there's a simple and easy roast chicken dinner for "lazy
people"). She's also got some memoirish-type stories. Preparations have
their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no
metric table of equivalents. Most prep titles are in English only; this
alone would get rid of a lot of pretensions. There's a list of websites
as sources, but it seems most items (including this book at $31.31
Canadian, with free shipping) can be bought at www.amazon.com. It's all
a fresh look for the uncomplicated lifestyle.
Audience and level of use: French-inspired cooks and chefs.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: salmon rilettes; tartine de
viande des grisons; pissaladiere; provencal olive fougasse; socca;
gougeres; leek and potato soup, smooth or chunky, hot or cold; couscous
salad; basque potato tortilla; chicken liver gateaux; crab-avocado
ravioli.
The downside to this book: Ironic claims -- The publisher says, "a book
that does for a new generation what Mastering the Art of French Cooking
did for its time". Houghton Mifflin is famous for passing up Julia's
book when it was first offered in 1961. NOW it wants to trade in on
Julia's success with another publisher. Also, "hors d'oeuvre" should
never be plural.
The upside to this book: I like the attempt, but there is a "tough
sell" feel about the book.
Quality/Price Rating: 86.

 

 

 

7. FIRE IT UP; more than 400 recipes for grilling everything (Chronicle
Books, 2011; distr. Raincoast, 416 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-6505-0,
$24.95 US soft covers) is by cookbook authors and food writers, Andrew
Schloss and David Joachim. There's the usual primer-type material on
equipment and methods and techniques, plus how to build flavour into
anything grilled. The book is arranged by ingredient: beef, veal, pork,
lamb, game, poultry, fish and seafood, veggies, fruit, and other
foodstuffs. At the beginning of each section, there's a meat chart plus
advice on how to handle that particular animal (with tips and
techniques). There's a sources list with websites and phone numbers,
all American. There's a separate index to techniques, such as filleting
a monkfish tail or spatchcocking a chicken or making lamb steaks.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there is a metric table of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: BBQ fanatics.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: T-Bone of veal au poivre;
pig candy; grilled coriander chicken with margarita butter; sage-brined
roast turkey; alder-planked Pacific salmon fillet; grilled oysters;
grilled coleslaw.
The downside to this book: considering the white space available, I
think there could have been a larger font size – it looks just a tad
small to me, certainly no larger than the index font!
The upside to this book: a good database of preps and meat charts,
perhaps not as spicy as Raichlen's book (see below).
Quality/Price Rating: 87.

 

 

 

8. HOME HERBAL; cook, brew and blend your own herbs (DK Publishing,
2011, 352 pages, ISBN 978-0-7566-7183-9, $22.95 US soft covers) is a
book package produced by the publisher on the theme of making your own
health-enhancing herbal remedies with preps developed by professional
herbalists plus over 70 recipes for herbal teas, tinctures, smoothies,
salads and soups. Most of the material has been assembled by Neal's
Yard Remedies of the UK, but there is also a credit given to Christy
Lusiak as an "Americanizer" to make the book more North American. It is
in directory format, with 100 key medicinal herbs: what each herb can
treat, how to grow it, how to harvest it, and how to apply it (with
detailed dosage advice). There are photographic demos for making
creams, bath soaks, toners, balms, face masks, soaps, and other
concoctions in a kitchen. There's a primer on herb basics, a glossary,
and some useful websites for North America. This is a nice package,
with good photos and indexing, with cross-references. Quality/price
rating: 88.

 

 

 

9. DIETICIANS OF CANADA COOK! (Robert Rose, 2011, 384 pages, ISBN 978-
0-7788-0261-7, $29.95 CAN paper covers) is by Mary Sue Waisman, RD,
cookbook author, and the Dieticians of Canada. Here are 275 recipes
that celebrate food from field to table. It is based on SLOFE
principles (seasonal, local, organic, fast, and easy) wherever
possible, and it is out just in time for Nutrition March 2011,
celebrating healthy eating. The book opens with a lot of information
about Canadian food and types of food preps designed to retain
nutrition. There's also a nutrient analysis for each recipe. All
courses (breakfast, lunch, brunch, snacks, dinner) are covered, and the
book is primarily arranged by major ingredient of poultry, beef, pork,
lamb, game, fish and seafood, along with veggies, breads, desserts,
soups and salads. In common with all Robert Rose books, preparations
have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois
measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Recipes have been
contributed and all are attributed to the developer, usually an RD.
Audience and level of use: beginning cooks, families.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: Asian chicken soup bowl;
bulgur salad with broccoli and radishes; scrambled egg pizza; veggie
bow tie pasta; mushroom and cheese risotto; pasta e fagioli; quinoa-
stuffed peppers; BBQ tarragon mustard turkey; orange nut bread; gluten-
free potato kugel.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

 

 

10. THE KITCHEN GARDEN COOKBOOK (DK Publishing, 2011, 352 pages, ISBN
978-0-7566-7188-4, $22.95 US soft covers) has been put together by
Caroline Bretherton, described as "editor-in-chief". I'm not sure what
this means. I assume that the preps come from a wide variety of
sources. There are 200 seasonal recipes here, about 50 for each season.
The book is arranged from spring through winter, and within each, there
are sections dealing with specific ingredients. In spring, there are
asparagus, peas, fava beans, Swiss chard, spinach, rhubarb and others.
Each is given several pages. At the beginning of each, there is a
sidebar with "when to pick", "use fresh", "how to preserve" and
"freezing options". The preps are detailed as to service (normally for
4), prep time, and cooking time. Preparations have their ingredients
listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no
table of metric equivalents. There are photos of the main ingredient
plus plated finished products. Good strong typeface and well-indexed.
Techniques for preserving are explained, and include drying veggies,
making cold pickles, storing under soil, freezing fruit, making
chutney: about 20 in all. All courses are covered, from soups to
desserts.
Audience and level of use: home cooks, reference tool usage.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: curried parsnip and apple
soup; rosemary jelly; caramelized pork with pecans and apricots;
Belgian endive gazpacho; French cabbage soup; roasted celery and
Stilton soup; piccalilli.
The downside to this book: I'm not sure about the provenance of these
recipes.
The upside to this book: gorgeous DK photographs.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.

* FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH! *

FIFTY PLANTS THAT CHANGED THE COURSE OF HISTORY (Firefly, 2010, 224
pages, ISBN 978-1-55407-798-4, $29.95 Canadian hard covers) is by Bill
Laws, social historian and book author. It is a very useful guide to
the basic fifty plants that humans had cultivated from the beginning of
agriculture. For each, there is a description of the plant, the
botanical name, its native range, and its primary function (e.g.,
edible or medicinal or commercial or all of these). There is also a lot
of cultural and social history for each plant: Laws explains why it is
in the Top Fifty (many plants get two pages here; corn gets six pages).
This text is complemented by botanical drawings, paintings and
photographs, and quotes from deep thinkers. The common food plants are
here (rice, wheat, corn, sugarcane, wine grapes) as well as tea,
cotton, rubber and tobacco. Not so common are pineapple (greenhouses
and conservatories), coconut (coir fibre, margarine, cream, coagulant),
eucalyptus (diuretics, mouthwash, vitamins, honey), white mulberry
(silk), and English oak (dyes, leather tanning, charcoal, casks,
ships). There's a bibliography for further reading, although there are
no citations to materials dealing with the Columbus Exchange.
Audience and level of use: the historically curious, foodies, reference
libraries, school of hospitality and cooking.
Some interesting or unusual facts: These are just the top 50 of the
quarter million or so plants which inhabit the earth.
The downside to this book: I'm not sure I'd use the phrase "changed the
course". Sure, these plants are important, but "change the course"?
This statement needs more enlightenment.
The upside to this book: well-priced, and it comes with a ribbon
bookmark.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.

* DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH! *

1. WHAT'S A WINE LOVER TO DO? (Artisan, 2010; distr. T. Allen, 372
pages, ISBN 978-1-57965-370-5, $17.95 US paper covers) is by Wes
Marshall, wine columnist for many newspapers and magazines in the US.
He also authored and produced "The Wine Roads of Texas" for a publisher
and PBS. It's another primer in Artisan's "What to do?" series, a sort-
of upscale dummy guide or self-help series. It is billed as an
illustrated guide with 334 essential oenophile pointers and tips. It's
a classy inexpensive introduction, with colour pix, presented in Q and
A style with plenty of lists. So there is the ground work of wine
regions, wine grapes, wine types, wine and food matching, wine tasting,
wine shopping (for US), and so forth. He also tackles how to find
Cabernet bargains, how to "talk chardonnay", speak with a sommelier,
predict the taste of a wine from the label, and other matters including
how to wash glasses. There's even a section on vegan wines.
Audience and level of use: beginner
Some interesting or unusual facts: He has a table of wine defects for
returning wines (corked, cooked, oxidized, volatile acidity, brett, and
sulphur, although the latter can disperse when poured).
The downside to this book: do we need another wine primer, even if it
is classy?
The upside to this book: it doesn't use the word "demystify",
preferring to use "mystify".
Quality/Price Rating: 89.

COOKBOOKS: Reissues and Newer Editions for 2011....

THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...
  ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

 

...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback
reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher
a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will
reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will
rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text
while keeping the focus tight. Here are some recent "re-editions"...

 

 

 

16. SPECIAL EVENTS; a new generation and the next frontier. Sixth ed.
(John Wiley & Sons, 2011, 550 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-44987-5, $55.55 US
hard covers) is by Joe Goldblatt, currently Executive Director of the
International Centre for the Study of Planned Events in Edinburgh. He
has established many, many programs through the United States, and is
thought to be the leader in the field of Event Management. The first
edition of this book was published in 1990 by Van Nostrand, and then
Wiley took over. Lately, it has been updated every three years. So this
becomes a gold standard text in the area. Besides coverage of what
event management is, discussion questions (this is a text, after all),
and career management and advancement, there has been a general
updating plus new material. There are new chapters on greener events,
corporate social responsibility, international best practices, and
expanding event fields. More than 200 new web resources are indicated,
as well as constructive uses of social media. There are also more
interviews with event leaders and newer case studies. The updated
bibliography contains quite a few relevant sources. Quality/Price
rating: 89.

 

17. THE NEW SONOMA DIET; trimmer waist, more energy in just 10 days.
(Sterling Publishing, 2011, 383 pages, ISBN 978-1-4027-8118=6, $22.95
US hard covers) is by Connie Guttersen, R.D., Ph.D., currently a
nutrition instructor at the CIA in California. The first edition of her
book was in 2005, selling a lot of copies. There is a subscription
website, www.newsonomadiet.com which has much more additional
information. The main thrust of the diet is quality food, flavours, and
a healthy exercise regimen. The updating is for more coverage of the
so-called SuperFoods, here labeled Power Foods, and the evolving
glycemic index. New material covers omega 3 fatty acids, pro-biotics,
dark chocolate, Vitamin D, gluten free recipes, and wine. Lots has
happened in the past 5 – 6 years. The basic 10 power foods have been
added to, with beans and citrus. There are 21 days of menus and recipes
with all sorts of combinations. My basic go-to food has been dark
chocolate and almonds, and they are here. Guttersen promotes the three
wave theory: the first wave (10 days) is the approach to the diet, the
clearing of the path. The second wave is the continuation of the diet
for weight loss. The third wave (after reaching target weight) is
changing the diet into a lifestyle. The older book would still be
useful, so don't pitch it. This book is meant for new readers.
Quality/price rating: 88. 

 

 

 

18. COOKING BASICS FOR DUMMIES. 4th ed. (Wiley Publishing Inc., 2011,
436 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-91388-8, $19.99 US paper covers) is by Bryan
Miller (once a restaurant reviewer for the New York Times and now a
food writer covering dining trends), Marie Rama (food consultant), and
Eve Adamson (cookbook author). The last edition was in 2004. So here we
are with newer material on trendier dining (BBQ and grilling) and newer
equipment. As a basic book for under twenty bucks, it is pretty good.
And the fact that it appears to be revised when needed is also pretty
good. And yes there are even metric conversion tables. One of the keys
is at the back: a glossary of top 100 common cooking terms, plus notes
on common substitutions, abbreviations and equivalents. There's also
enough stuff here to make you a short order cook. Each prep has a clear
explanation of technique, with ingredients listed in boldface and
nutritional data at the bottom. There's an indication of prep times,
cook times, and yields. All courses and meals are covered, with a lot
of variety – about 100 starter preps in all, with variations as needed.
Quality/Price rating: 90.

 

 

 

19. WEIGHT WATCHERS NEW COMPLETE COOKBOOK, 4th ed. (J Wiley, 2011, 416
pages, ISBN 978-0-470-61451-8, $29.95 US loose leaf edition) is an
update of the 2007 edition, which was released in a plastic comb
binding. It was originally published in hardback in 1993. The new,
fourth edition, has many changes, such as a separate chapter on slow
cooker meals and new sidebar advice. The new PointsPlus™ program is
explained. Recipes have been labeled for skill level, and there are
more preps for grains and veggies. Plus, of course, the new design:
loose leaf allow for better recipe display in the kitchen. Once again,
the emphasis is on healthy eating for family meals and for
entertainment meals. The book has always been 500 recipes in length,
but they are always changing. There are some helpful technique photos,
as well as the usual technique tricks and tips. Quality/price rating:
87.

 

 

 

20. AT HOME WITH MADHUR JAFFRY; simple, delectable dishes from India,
Pakistan, Bangladesh, and Sri Lanka (Knopf, 2010, 301 pages, ISBN 978-
0-307-26824-2, $35 US hard covers) was originally published as "Curry
Easy" in different form by Ebury Press in London. Six of her previous
books have won Beard Awards – she's the go-to person for Indian food.
It's a summative book of some 190 recipes, for this is what she does at
home. It follows the SLOFE principles (seasonal, local, organic, fast,
and easy). As she says, "to make a proper curry generally calls for the
browning of wet seasonings such as onion, garlic and ginger, the
browning of dry spices like cumin, chilies, and coriander, and the
browning of the meat itself. Now I find that if I just marinate the
meat with all the spices and seasonings and then bake it, both covered
and uncovered, all the browning happens on its own; the curry absorbs
the spices and is delicious." So the emphasis is on simpler methods and
fewer steps. But she does change the order of the food: like many
cultures, all the food comes out at once, with fresh fruit for dessert.
Here, she has a Western culture order to the dishes, with appetizers,
mains, sides, and desserts. I should think at this time of her life
that the publisher would need no log rolling, but Deborah Madison and
Betty Fussell do appear on the back cover. Try eggplants in a North-
South sauce, gujarati-style okra, roasted moong dal with mustard
greens, or Pakistani goat curry with potatoes. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no metric
table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

Some interesting and relevant cookbooks for 2011

 

 BETTER HOMES AND GARDENS THE ULTIMATE APPETIZERS BOOK (John Wiley &
Sons, 2011, 480 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-63414-1, $19.95 US soft covers)
is a bargain of a book, with 450 quick and easy nibble and drinks,
along with the usual party-planning advice. It's all done in typical
BH&G fashion, playing to the harried homemaker. Chapters cover dips,
meatballs and sliders, wings, seafood, pastries, cheeses, breads,
stuffed morsels, one and two-biters, small bowls, veggies, crunchies,
and desserts. Plus drinks, of course. There's a wealth of information
here, plus a minimal amount of bought processed ingredients such as
pita chips, puff pastry, BBQ sauce, at al. Many items can be expanded
into most of a meal, say for four people, or family time. Preparations
have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is
a metric table of equivalents. There is also a listing of emergency
substitutions.
Audience and level of use: homemakers,
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: leek and olive tart with
brie; California sushi rolls; nutty pork sliders; pepperoni biscotti;
Jamaican jerk chicken wings; beer and cheddar fondue.
The downside to this book: just speculative – will the binding hold up?
The book is squat and heavy.
The upside to this book: useful, especially if you don't want to buy or
use pre-made canapés from a supermarket.
Quality/Price Rating: 85.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4. THE CITY COOK; big city, small kitchen, limitless ingredients, no
time (Simon & Schuster, 2010, 277 pages, ISBN 978-1-4391-7199-8, $20 US
hard covers) is by Kaye McDonough who launched thecitycook.com in 2007.
This is a practical guide to fitting in cooking with a busy life and a
small kitchen (e.g., condo or apartment). There's also log rolling by
Barbara Kafka and Molly O'Neill. Her first point is, of course, to stop
ordering takeout. And use SLOFE principles (seasonal, local, organic,
fast, and easy). There's lots of advice here, and the book does read
like a primer for beginners. (She says you'll only need three different
knives). As well, you'll need a commitment to food. She goes on to sort
out the various greengrocers, farmers, butchers, wine merchants, cheese
mongers, fishmongers, bakers, spice merchants, Community-Supported
Agriculture, urban gardeners, farmer market organizers, and many more.
There's also planning for pantry and larder, with advice on what needs
to be on the shelf, on the counter, in the fridge, and in the freezer.
This is from what you cook. There's a listing of larger urban markets
in the USA, web merchants, other helpful web sites such as Slow Food,
Seafood Watch, USDA, and Sustainable Table. The ninety reparations have
their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are
metric tables of equivalents. Large typeface helps a lot.
Audience and level of use: beginning cooks, apartment dwellers.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: poached pears with parmesan;
winter greens with butternut squash croutons; composed salads
(variety); lamb shanks with tomato sauce.
The downside to this book: nothing really
The upside to this book: strategies for buying from specialists.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.

 

 

 

5. GLYCEMIC INDEX COOKBOOK FOR DUMMIES (Wiley Publishing, 2011, 360
pages, ISBN 978-0-470-87566-7, $19.99 US soft covers) is by Meri
Raffetto and Rosanne Rust, both registered dietitians and food writers.
Raffetto had previously writer The Glycemic Index Diet for Dummies;
both had written The Calorie Counter For Dummies. The GI is now a
mature and proven industry with many books behind it. It had initially
begun with a series of numbers to determine high or low glycemic
qualities. The index is a way of determining how different
carbohydrates in foods affect blood glucose levels. The lower the
number, the slower (and more sustained) the absorption of carbs into
the body. This is useful information for those with health issues
(diabetes, heart problems, et al) or those trying to lose weight. So
there is a good summary here in 50 pages, and then the creation of
menus and recipes. All courses are covered, from apps to desserts. 150
or so recipes are listed in an index at the back and in a separate
table of contents near the front.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there are metric tables of equivalents. It is all safe and
effective and healthy. If you stick with low GIs, then you'll probably
lose weight and be healthy. Check out the authors' website
www.reallivingnutrition.com.
Audience and level of use: dieters, those with health issues.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: understand the differences
between types of carbohydrates.
The downside to this book: much has been simplified, but then that is
the Dummies style.
The upside to this book: major foods are identified by "high" or "low"
or "medium", which is better than a number out of 100.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.

 

 

 

6. KEYS TO GOOD COOKING; a guide to making the best of foods and
recipes (Doubleday Canada, 2010, 553 pages, ISBN 978-0-385-66645-9, $42
US hard covers) is by Harold McGee, author of "On Food and Cooking".
Indeed, it has all the appearance of a slimmed down version of that
1984/2004 tome, minus much of the science behind the food. But it has
also been updated beyond 2004: much of the bibliography is new, new
foods have been brought in, and there has been a general updating
throughout. For example, the section on sprouts in the 2004 book did
not mention microgreens (which is in the 2010 book). On the other hand,
much of the science behind sprouts has been left behind, and instead,
the safety factor has been highlighted (sprouts promote bacterial
growth). So it is a bit of a tradeoff. In length, this book is about
one-quarter the size of "On Food and Cooking". The 2004 book had a
smaller typeface over two columns, with smaller leading and tables. The
current book has an extremely large typeface and lots of blank space.
Its emphasis is on cooking food, and not the science behind it. The mix
of chemistry, history, folklore, literary anecdotes, kitchen tips,
recipes, and explaining the science behind the cooking techniques are
all gone. Still, it is extremely useful for strategies such as
shopping, safety, storing, and preparations for cooking. The few tables
that exist are inside the covers, and detail mostly metric
equivalencies.
Audience and level of use: cooks, libraries, cooking schools.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: the 2004 book said that
flipping meat on the grill every minute creates moistness. The 2010
books just says "to speed the cooking", with no mention of moistness. 
The downside to this book: excessive log rolling (did we actually need
Thomas Keller, Ruth Reichl, Rose Beranbaum, and even Shirley Corriher
[who had McGee log roll her own book] doing endorsements? It's like
getting the Pope to give advance praise to a new edition of the
Catholic Bible). Also, there is more on food and the kitchen and so
little on human use of food (nutrition and digestion) and taste buds.
The upside to this book: there is a newer audience out there for the
science behind cooking. The updated bibliography.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

 

 

7. VEGAN COOKING FOR DUMMIES (Wiley Publishing, 2011, 364 pages, ISBN
978-0-470-64840-7, $19.99 US soft covers) is by Alexandra Jamieson, a
certified holistic health counselor and a vegan chef (featured in the
documentary "Super Size Me"). Vegans avoid all animal products, both in
diet (flesh, eggs, dairy, honey) and in lifestyle (fur coats, shoe
leather, furniture). She has about 160 vegan preps. All courses are
covered, from apps to desserts. The recipes are listed in an index at
the back and in a separate table of contents near the front. And she
does make it all sound easy and fun. There's party food here as well as
menus for entertaining. A highlight is a listing of 11 emergency snacks
such as pretzels, hummus and pita, salsa and tortilla chips, olive
paste and rice crackers, peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, and the
like. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois
measurements, but there are metric tables of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: vegetarians, vegans, those seeking a
different lifestyle.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: Occasionally, some vegans
will recycle "used" animal products to avoid an environmental conflict.
The downside to this book: much has been simplified, but then that is
the Dummies style.
The upside to this book: cheerful and upbeat, a good intro to vegans.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.

 

8. VEGETARIAN TIMES EVERYTHING VEGAN (John Wiley & Sons, 2011, 352
pages, ISBN 978-0-470-54788-5, $29.95 US hard covers) is edited by Mary
Margaret Chappell. It's a collection of some 250 recipes with SLOFE
principles (seasonal, local, organic, fast, and easy). It's billed by
the publisher as "the something-for-everyone vegan cookbook", drawn
from the pages and kitchens of Vegetarian Times. Vegan cookery usually
means "vegetarian without eggs and dairy". And this can limit some
choices of food preps since eggs and dairy are extensively used as
binders in the plated product, holding a casserole or a cake together.
Vegan meals can help reduce cholesterol, certain kinds of cancer,
diabetes, and weight. These have been proven. This is a basic book,
beginning with a kitchen primer and menu ideas. There are about 30
important and suggested menus, ranging from Thanksgiving, Christmas
(all the usual holidays) to a Sunday Breakfast or Weekday Dinner. The
preps begin with starters, drinks, burgers and sandwiches, salads, and
then move on to pasta, noodles, rice, whole grains, soy products,
"vegetables", and beans. There are also soups, baked goods, sweets, and
a variety of sauces and jams. There are informative sidebars, such as
"Guidelines for Choosing Rice". Preparations have their ingredients
listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no metric table of
equivalents. Each prep also has nutritional data.
Audience and level of use: vegans, vegetarians, natural health lovers.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: barley risotto with spinach
and tofu; polenta wedges with black-eyed pea salsa; forbidden rice
bibimbap; radicchio, radish and fennel salad; morning glory loaf.
The upside to this book: a good selection of vegan recipes from a
vegetarian magazine.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.

 

 

 

 

 

9. FOODISTA; 100 great recipes, photographs and voices (Andrews McMeel,
2010; distr. Simon and Schuster, 204 pages, ISBN 978-0-7407-9767-5,
$19.99 US paper covers) has been edited by Sheri L. Wetherell, Barnaby
Dorfman, and Colin M. Saunders. All three are founders of
www.foodista.com, a Seattle-based collaborative project to build a
large online food encyclopedia along the lines of Wikipedia, with
material that can be edited by members and cross-checked, etc., as
Wikipedia is supposed to be. It's another free resource social media
site, allowing free information for anyone who wants to cook and to
share recipes. The members chose the 100 best recipes from the
thousands on the site, and here they are. It's arranged by course, from
appetizers to desserts. Each prep is sourced, with a picture of the
plated dish, and some biographical information (a picture of each cook
is at the back of the book). Preparations have their ingredients listed
in avoirdupois measurements, but there is a metric table of equivalents
at the back. Recipes come from around the world, mostly from young
people (mainly women), and appear to be derived from their extended
families. So there are a fair bit of ethnic dishes here, which is a
good thing.
Audience and level of use: new cooks, bloggers, foodies.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: paneer kofta; cranberry
crumb bars; spicy pumpkin soup; buckwheat galettes with an egg; Asian
meat loaf.
The downside to this book: the typeface for the list of ingredients is
a light orange, hard on the eyes after awhile.
The upside to this book: the recipe line spacing is good with plenty of
leading.
Quality/Price Rating: 86.

 

 

 

10. THE ART OF THE CHOCOLATIER; from classic confections to sensational
showpieces (John Wiley & Sons, 2011, 408 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-39884-5,
$65 US hard covers) is by Ewald Notter, an award-winning pastry chef
and chocolatier. He has been working for over 35 years, and a teacher
for a quarter century. Currently, he is also pastry adviser to the
Culinary Team USA. It becomes at once THE book on chocolate for pastry
chefs, students, and chocolate stores. Part One gives the basic
overview (equipment, ingredients, techniques), while Part Two covers
all manner of small chocolates (gianduja, marzipan, ganache, chocolate
pralines). Part Three is the heavy gun – creating chocolate showpieces
(not for the faint of heart), dealing with flowers, painting, piping,
creating 3-D models, etc.). The work is complemented by absolutely
stunning photography and numerous charts, diagrams and templates.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in metric, US and volume
measurements, but otherwise there are no tables of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: professionals in the chocolate business,
students, libraries, reference collections.
Some interesting or unusual facts: for a unique look, chocolate candy
molds can be smeared or finger-painted with coloured cocoa butter using
colours that correspond to the flavours inside. Splattering is also
useful.
The downside to this book: it weighs 2 kilos (4.4 pounds)!
The upside to this book: good, detailed index.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.

 

 

 

11. HEALING SPICES; how to use 50 everyday and exotic spices to boost
health and beat disease (Sterling Publishing, 2011, 322 pages, ISBN
978-1-4027-7663-2, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Bharat B. Aggarwal (a
Ph.D. cancer researcher with over 500 scientific papers and articles),
with Debora Yost (a health book editor and writer). First off, I'm not
sure why the title says just "spices" when the book also includes herbs
and nuts. Notable herbs here include basil, bay leaf, mint, parsley,
rosemary, sage, and thyme. Nuts include almonds. Even veggies are here
(sun-dried tomatoes, onions, garlic). Let's just say that the foods he
recommends are "flavourful foods", usually consumed in small quantities
because they are intense. Several pages are devoted to each "spice".
The entry for turmeric, for example, is about a dozen pages long,
subtitled "leading crusader against disease". There's an explanation
about what it does, suggesting that it is the anti-cancer spice.
There's a list of what it may help prevent or treat (about 30
illnesses), a statement about how much is needed to promote good
health, what other spices it pairs well with, and a recipe (here,
turmeric with potato cauliflower soup). There is also a list of other
recipes in the book (with page references) that call for turmeric, and
a statement of non-recommended partnering with food (here, dairy dishes
will mask turmeric's delicate flavour). There are sidebars scattered
throughout, such as the one on how to make your own vanilla extract,
what is Mexican oregano, how to mask garlic breath, and using elephant
garlic like a leek). The last part of the book covers about two dozen
special spice combos, such as masala, which you can do yourself, and
substitutions. There's also the use of spices as natural medicines,
ranging from something as simple as bad breath to the more complicated
varieties of arthritis or asthma. Indeed, the book has linked spices to
the prevention and treatment of more than 150 health problems, such as
heart disease, type 2 diabetes, and Alzheimer's. It concludes with a
listing of US sources for spices, many of them online. Preparations
have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is
no metric table of equivalents. Colour photos of the spices are
collated into one section at the middle of the book.
Audience and level of use: alternative medicine fans, reference
libraries, natural health lovers.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: turmeric had a secondary use
as a fabric dye, so be careful about spills; it can be difficult to get
turmeric out of fabric.
The downside to this book: more recipes would have been useful, say, at
least two per entry.
The upside to this book: a good collection of materials, nicely laid
out.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.

 

 

 

 

 

12. HEALTHY COOKING (John Wiley & Sons, 2011, 314 pages, ISBN 978-0-
470-05233-4, $34.95 US hard covers) is from the Culinary Institute of
America, and is another addition to its consumer-styled "At Home"
series. This series is meant for home cooks: the recipes have normal
quantities of about 4 to 6, the ingredients can be reasonably found,
and equipment is home-sized. Kudos to the CIA for this series, but I
still wonder why a "Healthy Cooking" at home is needed. There are many
other books out on the market dealing with this matter; the CIA in
establishing some turf is a "Johnny-come-lately" entrant. Nevertheless,
the CIA would probably like you to buy all the books in this series.
The basic premise here is to replace unhealthy fats/oils and sugar and
carbs with flavour from herbs and spices, and using better, more
appropriate cooking techniques for different foods in different
circumstances. Recipes are based on the latest USDA nutrition
guidelines and food safety techniques, along with portion control.
Strategies are important, to develop healthy menus for meal planning.
Accompaniments must be balanced, and the whole day's nutrition cast
amongst the three meals of breakfast, lunch and dinner. The 235 recipes
here provide for variations and other options. And, in essence, the
book tries to practice SLOFE principles (seasonal, local, organic,
fast, and easy) as much as it can. Preparations have their ingredients
listed in avoirdupois volume measurements, but there is no metric table
of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: home cooks, new cooks, students.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: curried apple-squash soup;
artichoke seviche in Belgian endive; medallions of lobster with shaved
vegetable salad; Vietnamese summer rolls; lentil ragout; thyme-scented
trout; cocoa-rubbed pork tenderloin; pumpkin, zucchini, and chickpea
tagine.
The downside to this book: heavy book, could have been lighter. Also,
there is lots of competition out there.
The upside to this book: recipes are pretty basic and simple to do.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

Some interesting Crew Wines...

1. CREW Colchester Ridge Estate Winery Cabernet Franc 2007 VQA Lake
Erie North Shore: peppery fruit, underbrush, earth, some oak showing
from 10 months in barrel. Lay down for two years. $18 at
www.colchesterridge.com

 

2. CREW Colchester Ridge Estate Winery Meritage 2007 VQA Lake Erie
North Shore: Bordeaux varieties of cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon,
and merlot. Red fruit dominates, some oak showing from barrel aging.
Lay down for at least five years. $20 at www.colchesterridge.com

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

March 19/11: LCBO Vintages TOP Releases: some notes

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR MARCH 19, 2011
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is a guide to
thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers
and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1995. My tastings are based on
MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price
Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE:
The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine
writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not available for re-
tasting.

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Clos du Bois Chardonnay 2009 North Coast: a steady restaurant wine,
balanced with flavours of tropicality, wood and citric finish. Sipper
of food wine. +124867, $18.95, QPR: 90.
2. Lone Kauri Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Marlborough: great
expression, both ripe and unripe fruit, underbrush, herbs, and finish.
+138974, $14.95, QPR: 90.
3. Caves de la Tourangelle Grande Reserve Touraine 2009: Savvy value,
good depth and fine finish. +196733, $14.95, QPR: 89.
4. Studert-Prum Riesling Kabinett 2009 Mosel: good body, depth, well-
made off-dry. +970129, $18.95, QPR: 89.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Kacaba Proprietor's Blend Cabernet 2005 VQA Niagara Escarpment: good
blend of both cabernets, merlot and syrah, 13% ABV. Well-tuned and
nicely aged. +223974, $143.95, QPR: 89.
2. Gnarly Head Gnarlier Head Sommer Vineyard Old Vine Zin 2006 Dry
Creek Valley: sweet on mid-palate, dry on finish. Loaded with
character. Whopping 15.5% ABV. +212795, $19.95, QPR: 90.
3. Columbia Crest Grand Estates Merlot 2006 Columbia Valley: a
restaurant wine, finely aged, ripe 13.5% ABV. +263418, $15.95, QPR: 89.
4. Chateau Bel Air 2008 Haut-Medoc: MVC decent Bordeaux with a dollop
of chocolate. Keep a year more. +199042, $16.95, QPR: 90.
5. Alfiere Rosso Merlot 2007 Friuli: tasty but tart finish needs food,
merlot complexity. 12.5% ABV. +204024, $16.95, QPR: 89.
6. Banfi Centine 2008 IGT Toscana: smooth, ready now, 13.5%. Affordable
SuperTuscan blend of sangiovese, cab sauv and merlot. +947440, $16.95,
QPR: 90.
7. Spiaggiole Morellino di Scansano 2008 Tuscany: very Italianate in
taste, affordable black and blue berries, long, long length after a
fruity palate. +203398, $15.95, QPR: 91.
8. Lealtanza Reserva Seleccion 2004 Rioja: and older treat, nicely
stewed fruit, 13.5% ABV. +208223, $17.95, QPR: 90.
9. Bod. Abanico Eternum Viti 2008 Toro: full and ripe, lots of vinous
activity on the palate, with complexity to be resolved on the finish.
+210963, $18.95, QPR: 90.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1. Vina Mayor Reserva 2004 Ribera del Duero, +209155, $25.95.

2. Hamilton Russell Chardonnay 2009 WO Hemel-en-Aarde Valley South
Africa, +931006, $29.95.
3. Domaine de Riaux Pouilly-Fume 2009, +200063, $22.95.
4. Robert Mondavi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Napa, +670463,
$134.95.
5. The Foundry Syrah 2005 WO Coastal Region South Africa, +613331,
$29.95.
6. La Crau de ma Mere Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2007, +941740, $46.95.
7. Terre Nere Brunello di Montalcino 2005, +208462, $34.95.
8. Sartori Amarone Della Valpolicella 2006, +85217, $37.95.
9. Arroyo Reserva 2005 Ribera del Duero, +215715, $20.95.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

Feb 24/11: Tasting Alexander Valley's Hawkes Winery at FWR

The Time and Date: Thursday, February 24, 2011   4PM to 7PM
The Event: Jake Hawkes of Hawkes Vineyard and Winery in Alexander
Valley explored a variety of his wines. He is repped in Ontario by
Nectar Wine Imports.
The Venue: Fine Wine Reserve, King and Spadina
The Target Audience: wine media, clients, licensees, sommeliers
The Availability/Catalogue: The six wines tasted are available through
Nectar by the 12-pack case (www.nectarimports.ca)
The Quote/Background: The Hawkes family has been farming wine grapes
for over 30 years. Lately, they have begun producing their own wines
beginning in 2002. Currently, they produce immense, big Chardonnays,
Merlots and Cabernet Sauvignons.
The Wines:

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Hawkes Family Merlot Alexander Valley 2006, $29.95 – VALUE priced
-Hawkes Family Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 2004, $29.95 -VALUE
-Hawkes Family Pyramid Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 2005, $67.95

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Hawkes Family Home Chardonnay Alexander Valley 2008, $29.95
-Hawkes Family Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 2005, $34.95
-Hawkes Family Stone Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 2005, $67.95

 

The Food: catered by C'est Cheese & Meats, Oakville (breads, crackers,
artisanal cheeses, charcuterie, pate, and sausage platter). An
excellent spread that went well with the big wines.
www.cheeseandmeats.ca
The Downside: it was a short session since I had leave early.
The Upside: a chance to talk with Jake Hawkes about his winemaking.
The Contact Person: Ken Wallis <kwallis@nectarimports.ca>
The Marketing Effectiveness of this Event (numerical grade): 89.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

Feb 23/11: Tasting APVSA wines on offer

The Time and Date: Wednesday, February 23, 2011  11AM to  6 PM
The Event: the monthly APVSA tasting (Association pour la promotion des
vins et spiritueux en Amerique du Nord).
The Venue: Delta Chelsea Inn
The Target Audience: wine agents.
The Availability/Catalogue: no wines are currently available in
Ontario. The group is here to try to get some agents to agree to rep
the principal. Some of the wines are available in Quebec and Alberta.
Most of the wines were French, and there is sales staff available to
comment on the prices and production. This road show also visits such
places as New York, Los Angeles, Seattle, Las Vegas, Calgary,
Vancouver, Miami, Washington DC, and Montreal. Occasionally, the show
will have wines from Italy, Spain and Australia.
The Wines: The problem I had with the wines, and one that must be
acknowledged, is that (by and large) they were almost no better than
the wines that we already have here in Ontario. There really did not
seem to be any price advantages, either. But these 40 or so wines could
be made available through Vintages or Consignment. In the past, quite a
few have been picked up for sale in Ontario. They were mostly the good
value or unique wines. Here were my faves, regardless of price (all
prices are ex-cellar Euros). I did not try every wine:

 

The Wines:

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Alain Voge St. Peray Terres Boisees 2008 Marsanne, 9.20 E
-Moulin de Breuil Cuvee Elegance Cotes Catalane 2009 Cab-Merlot IGP,
3.15 E
-Gocker Gewurztraminer 2009, 3.80 E

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Chateau Fontbaude Cotes de Castillon 2008 Vieilles Vignes, 4.75 Euros
-Pradelle Crozes Hermitage 2009 Rouge, 4.50 E
-Domaine Grand Pere Jules Cotes du Rhone Villages 2009 Organic, 4.50 E
-Domaine des Carabiniers Lirac Rouge 2009 Organic, 5.90 E
-Domaine des Carabiniers Lirac Blanc 2009 Organic, 5.40 E
-Domaine des Carabiniers Cotes du Rhone Rouge 2009 Organic, 3.85 E
-Alain Voge Cornas Vieilles Vignes 2007, 21 E
-Alain Voge Cotes du Rhone Les Peyrouses 100% syrah 2008, 4.70 E
-Alain Voge St. Joseph Les Vinsonnes 2008 100% syrah, 11 E
-Alain Voge St. Peray Harmonie 2009 Marsanne, 8.20 E
-Domaine de Malavieille Coteaux du Languedoc-Terrasse du Larzac
Alliance Rouge 2007, 4.00 E
-Moulin de Breuil Cuvee Elegance Cotes du Roussillon Rouge 2009 GSM,
3.25 E
-Moulin de Breuil Cuvee Attelage Cotes du Roussillon Rouge 2008 GSM,
4.25 E
-Domaine Robert Klingenfus Pinot Noir 2009 Alsace, 4.10 E
-Gocker Riesling 2009, 3.50 E
-Henry Fuchs Riesling Grand Cru Kirchberg Vendange Tardive 2000, 17.50
E
-Henry Fuchs Pinot Gris 2009, 4.65 E
-Alain Mabillot Reuilly 2010 Loire, 4.50 E
-Alain Mabillot Reuilly 2008 Mont Cocu Loire, 5.6 E
-Alain Mabillot Reuilly 2019 Rouge Loire, 4.5 E
-Maillard Christophe Muscadet Sevre et Maine sur Lie Domaine des
Sablons 2010, 3.07 E
-Ecuyers Talmard Macon Chardonnay Blanc 2009, 4 E
-Chateau Goubau La Source 2007 Bordeaux, 4.50 E

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Chateau Fontbaude Cotes de Castillon 2008, 3.75 Euros
-Denis Lafon La Revelation Premieres Cotes de Blaye 2005, 5.75 E
-Chateau du Grand Barrail Blaye Cotes de Bordeaux 2008, 3.50 E
-Domaine des Carabiniers Tavel Rose Organic 2009, 5.83 E
-Alain Voge Cornas Les Chailles 2008, 12 E
-Domaine Les Terres de Mallyce Cotes du Roussillon Village Rouge 2008,
4 E
-Domaine St. Michel Archange Tour de Boussecos Rouge 2009, 4 E
-Domaine St. Michel Archange Cuvee Josephine Rouge 2008, 5.50 E
-Domaine Robert Klingenfus Pinot Blanc 2009 Alsace, 4.33 E
-Domaine Robert Klingenfus Riesling 2009 Alsace, 4.49 E
-Domaine Robert Klingenfus Riesling Grand Cru Bruderthal 2009 Alsace,
9.11 E
-Gocker Pinot Gris 2009, 3.50 E
-Henry Fuchs Pinot Blanc Auxerrois 2009, 2.95 E
-Henry Fuchs Gewurztraminer 2009, 4.65 E
-Henry Fuchs Riesling Grand Cru Kirchberg 2007, 8.30 E
-B. Fleuriet et Fils Sancerre 2010, 6 E
-J. Rouze Quincy 2010, 4.60 E
-Marchesseau Bourgeuil Alouette 2009, 3.61 E
-G. Blanchett Pouilly Fume 2010, 5.50 E
-Maillard Christophe Muscadet Sevre et Maine sur Lie Domaine des
Sablons 2010, 3.07 E
-Maillard Christophe Muscadet Sevre et Maine sur Lie Cuvee Camille
2009, 3.75 E
-Ecuyers Talmard Macon Blanc 2009, 4 E
-Chateau Goubau 2008 Bordeaux, 7.50 E
-Chateau Goubau La Source 2008 Bordeaux, 4.75 E
-Les Charmes de Goubau 2008 Bordeaux, 3.50 E

 

The Downside: selection is eclectic and some bottles arrive
haphazardly. Some bottles never arrived at all, but we were not told
this until we got there. Some bottles are in the show, but are not
listed in the catalogue. It can be frustrating.
The Upside: a chance to taste some engaging wines not available here.
There is a listing of wines with FOB prices in Euros.
The Contact Person: Pascal p.fernand@apvsa.ca
The Effectiveness (numerical grade): 84.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

Feb 9/11: Tasting Cuvee VQA winners semi-blind

The Time and Date: Wednesday February 9, 2011  10:30 to 2 PM
The Event: The annual media pre-Cuvee Ontario VQA wine tasting.
The Venue: BMO, 68th Floor.
The Target Audience: wine media and sommeliers.
The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available for sale, at the
winery. Some are at the LCBO.
The Quote/Background: This was to be a broad overview of the wines to
be poured at Cuvee (early March). These wines represent each
participating winery's top scoring wine from the Cuvee judging held in
January. The official winners for the top scoring wine in each category
will be announced on March 4.
The Wines: Because of my time constraints, I just evaluated red and
white table wines. Four wineries who participate in Cuvee did not send
in submissions to the media pre-Cuvee tasting. One winery's sample was
sub-standard (both bottles) and not listed here.
 

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Niagara Teaching College Dean's List Chardonnay 2009, $27.95.
-Nyarai Cellars Veritas Red 2007, $24.95
-Palantine Hills Estate Gewurztraminer 2008, $13.75
-Pelee Island Winery Alvar Semillon Sauvignon 2009, $12.95.
-Peninsula Ridge Fume Blanc 2008, $24.95
-Rosewood Estates Chardonnay Reserve 2007, $25
-Thirty Bench Winemakers Small Lot Cabernet Franc 2007, $40

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Calamus Estate Vinemount Ridge Riesling 2008, $16.20
-Cave Spring Cellars Riesling CSV 2008, $29.95
-Colaneri Estate Pinot Grigio Cavallone 2009, $25
-Dan Aykroyd Winery Signature Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, $39.95
-EastDell Estates Cabernet Franc Reserve 2007, $39.95
-Featherstone Estate Bottled Sauvignon Blanc 2010, $19.95
-Five Rows Craft Wine of Lowrey Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2009, $25
-Flat Rock Cellars Twisted 2009, $16.95
-Henry of Pelham Reserve Cabernet Merlot 2007, $24.95
-Kacaba Reserve Cabernet Franc 2007, $44.95
-Konzelmann Estate Merlot Barrel Aged 4th Generation 2007, $25
-Lakeview Cellars Kerner Reserve 2009, $17.95
-Megalomaniac John Howard Cellars of Distinction Sous Terre Cabernet
Merlot Reserve 2007, $44.95
-Mike Weir Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2009, $14.95
-Peller Estates Signature Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, $38
-Pondview Estate Barrel Fermented and Aged Chardonnay 2009, $17
-Ridge Road Estate Gamay 2009, $15.95
-Riverview Cellars Gewurztraminer 2009, $16.95
-Rockway Glen Estate Reserve Chardonnay 2007, $19.95.
-Stoney Ridge Estate Excellence Pinot Noir 2009, no price provided
-Tawse Winery Cherry Avenue Pinot Noir 2008, $57.95
-Twenty Twenty-Seven Cellars Fox Croft Vineyard Riesling 2009, $24.95

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Alvento Winery Emilie 2007, $29.95
-Angels Gate Winery Angels III 2007, $35
-Casa Dea Reserve Chardonnay 2009, $24.95
-Cattail Creek Estate Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2009, $35.20
-Colio Estate CEV Sauvignon Blanc 2009, $15.75
-Cornerstone Estate Riesling Reserve Barrel Aged 2009, $20
-Creekside Estate Queenston Road Vineyard Reserve Viognier 2009, $28.95
-D'Angelo Vineyards Estate Cabernet Franc 2007, $11.99
-Diamond Estates Birchwood FRESH Sauvignon Blanc-Chardonnay 2008,
$11.95
-Fielding Estate Riesling 2009, $15.95
-Good Earth Vineyard Medium Dry Riesling 2009, $20
-Hernder Estates Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, $14.95.
-Jackson Triggs Delaine Vineyard Syrah 2007, $29.95
-Ravine Vineyard Reserve Red 2007, $55
-Vineland Estates Cabernet Franc Reserve 2007, $40
-Wayne Gretzky Estate Series Gewurztraminer 2009, $18.95

 

The Food: I was given a box lunch to take with me, with wraps and
sandwiches, an apple, and biscotti. Coffee and juices were available,
but I did not have any food with the wines, except bread.
The Downside: I had a prior engagement at noon, so I had to leave
early.
The Upside: There were some terrific wines, but also some that
should/could have scored higher.
The Contact Person: erin@mitchellwestlake.com
The Marketing Effectiveness of this Event (numerical grade): 89.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

 

 

Feb 22/11: Tasting Seriously Cool Chardonnays AGAIN, with some changes in position.

The Time and Date: Tuesday, February 22, 2011  2PM to 5PM
The Event: A tasting of Seriously Cool Chardonnays from Ontario and BC,
previously judged to be the best to be sent to NYC on March 8 for a
media tasting.
The Venue: Toronto Lawn and Tennis Club
The Target Audience: wine media and sommeliers.
The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available at the winery, some
at Vintages or LCBO.
The Quote/Background: some WWCC members had judged this event, some
others had attended a WWCC exclusive tasting two weeks ago. Thus, in a
few cases, it was possible to taste a wine three times in three
different circumstances. If you closer compare the following
rankings/ratings with my Feb 4 notes, you will see that there were a
few changes upwards and downwards.
The Wines:

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Burrowing Owl Estate Winery 2008 Okanagan, 13.5%, $25
-Closson Chase Vineyards S.Kocsis Vineyard 2007, 13.8%, $44.95
-Flatrock Cellars Reserve 2007, 13%, $35
-Henry of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Chardonnay 2007, $40
-Hidden Bench Vineyards and Winery Tête de Cuvée 2008, 13.1%, $45
-Hillebrand Winery Showcase Oliveria Vineyard Wild Ferment 2008, 13.6%,
$35
-Le Clos Jordanne Claystone Terrace 2008, 13.5%, $40
-Le Clos Jordanne Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard 2008, $13.5%, $40
-Quail's Gate Estate Winery Stewart Family Reserve 2006 Okanagan, 14%,
$29.99
-Ravine Vineyard Reserve 2009, 14.5%, $38
-Rosewood Estates Reserve Renaceau Vineyard 2007, 14%, $25
-Southbrook Vineyards Poetica 2003, 13.8%, $62

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Burrowing Owl Estate Winery 2005 Okanagan, 13.5%, $25
-Chateau des Charmes Paul Bosc Estate Vineyard 2007 St. David's, 13%,
$21.95
-Closson Chase Vineyards Closson Chase Vineyard 2008 PEC, 12.6%, $34.95
-Closson Chase Beamsville Bench 2005 (Library wine)
-Coyote's Run Estate Winery Black Paw Vineyard 2007, 13.5%
-Hillebrand Winery Trius 2009 Barrel Fermented, 13.5%, $18.95 – best
value!
-Hidden Bench Vineyards and Winery 2008, 13.1%, $32
-Huff Estates South Bay Vineyards 2008, 12.5%, $29.95
-Lailey Vineyard Old Vines 2008, 13%, $40
-Lakeview Cellars Reserve 2000, 14%, $24.95
-Lakeview Cellars Reserve 2007, 13%, $21.95
-Malivoire Moira Vineyard 2008, 13%, $39.95
-Malivoire Mottiar 2008, 13%, $29.95
-Meyer Family Vineyards Tribute Series Kenny McLean 2009 Naramata BC,
13.5%, $35
-Norman Hardie Cuvée 'L' Unfiltered 2008, 11.9%, $49
-Norman Hardie Unfiltered 2008, 11.8%, $35
-Pillitteri Estates Winery Exclamation Cellar Series 2006, 12.5%, $23
-Quail's Gate Estate Winery 2008 Okanagan, 14%, $18.99
-Rosehall Run Cuvée County 2008 PEC, 13.5%, $21.95
-Rosewood Estates Reserve 2008, 14%, $25
-Southbrook Vineyards Triomphe 2009, 13.1%, $21.95
-Southbrook Vineyards Whimsy! 2008, 12.2%, $29.95
-Tawse Winery Beamsville Bench Reserve 2002, 14.1%, $47
-Tawse Winery Robyn's Block Vineyard 2008, 13.5%, $41.95

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Angels Gate Winery Mountainview 2008, 13$, $18.95
-Casa-Dea Estates Chardonnay Unoaked 2009
-Cave Spring Cellars CSV 2007, 13.5%, $29.95
-Chateau des Charmes Musqué 2009, 12.5%, $16.95
-Colaneri Estate Winery 'Paese' 2008, 13.4%, $34.95
-Coyote's Run Estate Winery Red Paw Vineyard 2009, 12.5%, $21.95
-Exultet Estates 2009 PEC, $13.5%, $35
-Flatrock Cellars 2008, 12.5%, $16.95
-Henry of Pelham Family Estate Winery Unoaked 2009, 12.6%, $12.95
-Lailey Vineyards 2009, 12.5%, $20
-Mission Hill Family Estate Winery Select Lot Collection 2005, 14%,
$29.95
-Pelee Island Winery Barrique 2005, 12.5%, $13.85
-Pondview Estate Winery Unoaked 2009, 14.3%, $17
-Tawse Winery Quarry Road Vineyard 2008, 13.5%, $34.95
-The Grange of Prince Edward County Victoria Block Barrel Fermented
2008, 14.2%, $35

 

The Food: bread and water
The Downside: the water was meant for rinsing, and it was hotter than
lukewarm.
The Upside: another try at tasting these wines, allowing for some final
adjustments.
The Contact Person: sdarby@rogers.com
The Marketing Effectiveness of this Event (numerical grade): 90.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

Feb 4/11: Tasting Seriously Cool Chardonnays with WWCC

The Time and Date: Friday, February 4, 2011   10:30 AM to 1:50 PM
The Event: Wine Writers' Circle of Canada monthly meeting, tasting
Serious Cool Chardonnays that are on their way to New York for a
tasting with American wine writers. This is a follow-up to the London
tasting of May 2010.
The Venue: LCBO Private Function Room, Scrivener Square.
The Target Audience: WWCC members.
The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available through the winery,
save for some "Library" wines. Some are also at the LCBO.
The Quote/Background: The wines had been winnowed down from about 100.
This year there were also wines from British Columbia.
The Wines: I tasted about 50 table wines, no sparklers nor icewine.
Some wines failed to achieve 85 points. All wines, of course, are 100%
chardonnay --

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Closson Chase Vineyards S.Kocsis Vineyard 2007, 13.8%, $44.95
-Flatrock Cellars Reserve 2007, 13%, $35
-Hidden Bench Vineyards and Winery Tête de Cuvée 2008, 13.1%, $45
-Hidden Bench Vineyards and Winery 2008, 13.1%, $32
-Hillebrand Winery Trius 2009, 13.5%, $18.95 – best value!
-Lakeview Cellars Reserve 2007, 13%, $21.95
-Quail's Gate Estate Winery Stewart Family Reserve 2006 Okanagan, 14%,
$29.99
-Rosewood Estates Reserve Renaceau Vineyard 2007, 14%, $25
-Southbrook Vineyards Poetica 2003, 13.8%, $62
-Tawse Winery Robyn's Block Vineyard 2008, 13.5%, $41.95

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Burrowing Owl Estate Winery 2008 Okanagan, 13.5%, $25
-Chateau des Charmes Paul Bosc Estate Vineyard 2007 St. David's, 13%,
$21.95
-Closson Chase Vineyards Closson Chase Vineyard 2008 PEC, $12.6%,
$34.95
-Coyote's Run Estate Winery Black Paw Vineyard 2007, 13.5%
-Coyote's Run Estate Winery Red Paw Vineyard 2009, 12.5%, $21.95
-Henry of Pelham Family Estate Winery Unoaked 2009, 12.6%, $12.95
-Hillebrand Winery Showcase Oliveria Vineyard Wild Ferment 2008, 13.6%,
$35
-Huff Estates South Bay Vineyards 2008, 12.5%, $29.95
-Lailey Vineyard Old Vines 2008, 13%, $40
-Lailey Vineyards 2009, 12.5%, $20
-Lakeview Cellars Reserve 2000, 14%, $24.95
-Malivoire Moira Vineyard 2008, 13%, $39.95
-Malivoire Mottiar 2008, 13%, $29.95
-Meyer Family Vineyards Tribute Series Kenny McLean 2009 Naramata BC,
13.5%, $35
-Norman Hardie Cuvée 'L' Unfiltered 2008, 11.9%, $49
-Norman Hardie Unfiltered 2008, 11.8%, $35
-Pillitteri Estates Winery Exclamation Cellar Series 2006, 12.5%, $23
-Quail's Gate Estate Winery 2008 Okanagan, 14%, $18.99
-Rosehall Run Cuvée County 2008 PEC, 13.5%, $21.95
-Southbrook Vineyards Triomphe 2009, 13.1%, $21.95
-Tawse Winery Beamsville Bench Reserve 2002, 14.1%, $47
-Tawse Winery Quarry Road Vineyard 2008, 13.5%, $34.95
-The Grange of Prince Edward County Victoria Block Barrel Fermented
2008, 14.2%, $35

 

*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Angels Gate Winery Mountainview 2008, 13$, $18.95
-Cave Spring Cellars CSV 2007, 13.5%, $29.95
-Chateau des Charmes Musqué 2009, 12.5%, $16.95
-Colaneri Estate Winery 'Paese' 2008, 13.4%, $34.95
-Exultet Estates 2009 PEC, $13.5%, $35
-Flatrock Cellars 2008, 12.5%, $16.95
-Le Clos Jordanne Claystone Terrace 2008, 13.5%, $40
-Le Clos Jordanne Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard 2008, $13.5%, $40
-Mission Hill Family Estate Winery Select Lot Collection 2005, 14%,
$29.95
-Pelee Island Winery Barrique 2005, 12.5%, $13.85
-Pondview Estate Winery Unoaked 2009, 14.3%, $17
-Ravine Vineyard Reserve 2009, 14.5%, $38
-Rosewood Estates Reserve 2008, 14%, $25
-Southbrook Vineyards Whimsy! 2008, 12.2%, $29.95

 

The Contact Person: sdarby@rogers.com
The Marketing Effectiveness of this Event (numerical grade): 91.

 

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com