SOME FOOD AND DRINK BOOKS IN REVIEW

 

THE BIG BEAUTIFUL BROWN RICE COOKBOOK; the world's best brown rice
recipes (SquareOne Publishers, 2013; distr. T. Allen, 184 pages, ISBN
978-0-7570-0364-6, $16.95 US soft covers) is by Wendy Esko, who has
studied and taught macrobiotic cooking for over four decades. She's
written over 20 cookbooks, and currently works for Eden Foods. She's
been around and around these recipes for quite some time. It's a basic
primer of some 140 recipes with practical cooking tips and guidelines,
plus variations. There's also a glossary of ingredients. It is
organized by course, with breakfast up first, followed by soups, stews,
salads, condiments, apps, sides, mains, and desserts. At the beginning,
there are the basics of brown rice and a pantry of sorts. There is also
a large list of resources. Preparations have their ingredients listed
in avoirdupois measurements, but there are tables of metric
equivalents.
Audience and level of use: for vegetarians and vegans.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: fried adzuki bean rice;
stuffed grape leaves; muesli; Moroccan rice; applesauce brown rice
muffins; mushroom onion sauce; California rolls; baked rice and barley
casserole.
The downside to this book: the emphasis is on brown rice, not
macrobiotics.
The upside to this book: good glossary
Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

4. THE GLUTEN-FREE QUINTESSENTIAL QUINOA COOKBOOK; eat great, lose
weight, feel healthy (Skyhorse Publishing, 2013, 285 pages, ISBN 978-1-
62087-699-2, $17.95 US hard covers) is by Wendy Polisi, author of last
year's "The Quintessential Quinoa Cookbook". This version is now all
gluten-free. It's based on the large feedback she got from that book:
why not make it all gluten-free? So here it is, with photos and
nutritional info for every recipe, gluten-free desserts, and quinoa
recipes for kids. She's even given alternative ingredients and prep
methods for many dishes, including vegan, sugar-free, and quick and
easy. She's got two recipes for gluten-free flour blends – an all-
purpose quinoa flour blend and a quinoa cake flour blend. These can be
used without fear. The book is arranged by course, breakfast through
apps and snacks, salads, wraps and tacos and sandwiches, mains, baking
and desserts. About 140 dishes here, but there is more at
cookingquinoa.net. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there are tables of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: those who require a gluten-free diet
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: gluten-free pizza dough;
quinoa bread; apple onion focaccia bread; broccoli quinoa casserole;
BBQ quinoa sloppy joes; Mediterranean lettuce cups; smoked chile
rellenos.
The downside to this book: I would have liked more preps, but I can
always visit the website.
The upside to this book: good pictures and descriptions.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.

 

5. INDIAN COOKING UNFOLDED (Workman Publishing, 2013; distr. T. Allen,
330 pages, ISBN 978-0-7611-6521-7, $19.95 US paper covers) is by
Raghavan Iyer, an award-winning author-teacher with several Indian
cookbooks to his name. This one has 100 easy recipes with few prep
techniques and few ingredients or spices. The publisher has a "foldout"
format: each of the seven sections of the book opens with an
illustrated technique lesson that leads the cook through a foundation
recipe. This is the master class part of the book. For example, in the
veggie mains section, there is a class on smoky yellow split peas
(dal), with detailed instructions and technique photos. It is the first
lesson in the section, followed by others: spicy Indian omelets,
cardamom-scented cheese with peppers, pan-fried cheese with creamy
spinach, sassy chickpea curry, red lentil dal, mustard cannellini
beans, and six more, leading to root vegetable pie. Preparations have
their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are
tables of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: beginners, those interested in Indian food.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: see above
The downside to this book: nothing really, although I got bored with
the sections headed "extra credit" – made it all seem so school-ey.
The upside to this book: there's a bibliography for advanced reading.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

6. GREAT GLUTEN-FREE WHOLE-GRAIN BREAD MACHINE RECIPES. (Robert Rose,
2013, 320 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0463-5, $24.95 CAN paper covers) is by
Donna Washburn and Heather Butt, both professional home economists with
credentials in the fields of gluten-free recipe development and bread
machine baking. Together, they have written nine cookbooks, including
300 Best Canadian Bread Machine Recipes. Here there are 150 recipes
using flours that include quinoa, amaranth, teff, tapioca, rice,
buckwheat, millet, sorghum, corn, and oat. Every prep comes with
detailed notes off set up, nutritional information, tips and
variations, plus minute usage of the bread machine. New ones have a
gluten-free cycle; however, the authors also give a work-around system
for older machines without the cycle. The book begins with re-
interpretations of the classics, and then continues with artisan
breads, hearty breads, seed-nut breads, mixes, egg-free breads, and
then the flatties of filled breads, flatbreads, and pizzas. There are
glossaries of equipment, ingredients, and techniques.  Preparations
have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois
measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. A very useful book.
Audience and level of use: those gluten-free cooks with bread machines.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: carrot poppy loaf, challah,
five-seed brown bread, mock rye loaf, panini sandwich loaf.
The upside to this book: there are sections on egg-free, nut-free, and
rice-free breads.
Quality/Price Rating: 90.

 

7. THE FRENCH COOK: cream puffs and eclairs (Gibbs Smith, 2013, 128
pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-3243-6, $21.99 US hard covers) is by Holly
Herrick, who is a Cordon Bleu grad and restaurant critic, living in
Charleston, SC. She has also written a few cookbooks for Gibbs Smith.
This is the second in a new series on French cuisine. And, of course,
what better place to start than with versatile pate a choux or choux
paste (pastry), which can translate into many sweet and savoury cream
puffs and éclairs. There are photos and step-by-step techniques. The
basic pastes are here (gougeres, puffs, croquembouche, profiteroles)
plus more and some variations are noted. The book is set up as a primer
for beginners. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is a table of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: beginner
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: avocado mousse with bacon
and tomato in choux paste; "gnocchi" made with choux paste; gougeres;
Dreamsicle orange cream puffs.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.

 

8. THE SOUPMAKER'S KITCHEN; how to save your scraps, prepare a stock,
and craft the perfect pot of soup (Quarry Books, 2013, 160 pages, ISBN
978-1-59253-844-7, $24.99 US soft covers) is by Aliza Green, a Beard
winner (Ceviche!, published in 2001). She's written 13 cookery books in
all, and was a former food writer for the Philadelphia Inquirer and
Cooking Light magazine. Her last book was Making Artisan Pasta (2012).
Here she concentrates on the clever art of "scratch" cooking and
"leftover" cooking. Hardened family cooks (like my wife) already know
the ins and outs of sterling soup production. But for others, the book
is a gem. There's an in-depth chapter on stock followed by the major
categories of soups (clear, bisques, stews, chowders. Lots of tips and
advice too. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois
measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: intermediate or beginner home cooks.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: golden tomato gazpacho with
smoked paprika; scallop and white corn chowder with roasted poblanos
chiles; Turkish red lentil soup; acquacotta maremmana; French soupe de
potiron; Caribbean callalou soup.
The downside to this book: no shrimp recipes.
The upside to this book: it is an all-purpose book with some vegan
recipes.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.

 

9. GRAIN BRAIN; the surprising truth about wheat, carbs, and sugar –
your brain's silent killers (Little Brown and Co., 2013, 323 pages,
ISBN 978-0-316-23480-1, $27 US hard covers) is by David Perlmutter, MD,
an award-winning brain specialist with numerous books on the brain
(e.g., The Better Brain Book). There's some heavy duty log rolling
here, ascribing the linking of dementia to a diet high in sugar and
grains. Most carbs also appear to link to ADHD, epilepsy, anxiety,
chronic headaches, depression, decreased libido, and more. Most of the
book deals with proving this point; the balance h=goes on to describe a
4-week lifestyle change plan on how to keep the brain healthy, with
recipes, strategies, and so forth. Kristin Loberg is the focusing
writer. First, you must determine your baseline on blood glucose,
insulin, hemoglobin, vitamin D, gluten, and other factors. Then, there
is a list of OTC supplements such as coconut oil, DHA, probiotics,
resveratrol, turmeric, and Vitamin D, which must be taken daily for the
rest of your life. Then you clear out your kitchen, re-stock, maybe
fast a little, eliminate all gluten, focus on exercise and sleep, and
find motivators. There are some sample menus and some starter recipes.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there is no table of metric equivalents. Extensive end notes.
Audience and level of use: those wishing to go off carbs.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: broccoli soup with cashew
cream; herb garden salad with balsamic; Nicoise salad; avocado-tahini
dip; chocolate truffles; sofritos; dill spread.
The downside to this book: much of the beginning can be condensed even
further, but is still useful for argument's sake.
The upside to this book: the last 100 pages of text are the most
valuable.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.

 

10. THE GREAT VEGAN BEAN BOOK (Fair Winds Press, 2013, 192 pages, ISBN
978-1-59233-549-7, $19.99 US paper covers) is by Kathy Hester, a
blogger and freelancer who writes on vegan matters
(healthyslowcooking.com, keyingredient.com, Chickpea magazine) and
teaches vegan cooking classes. Her book has more than 100 plant-based
dishes with lots of protein, and most recipes are soy- and gluten-free
(each recipe is tagged thus). There is also some heavy duty log rolling
from other vegan writers. All courses are covered, including breakfast,
snacks, soups, salads, sandwiches, stews, casseroles, and desserts. If
you are vegan, you may already know this material. Nevertheless, for
newbies, this is a good assortment of bean preps for every day and
every course. At the end, there is a resources list. All kinds of beans
are covered, including cannellini, calypso, edamame, and adzuki.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents.
Nutritional data is given per serving.
Audience and level of use: vegans or those looking at veganism.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: faux goat cheese; pumpkin
white bean chowder; orange blossom brunch biscuits; cream of the crop
garden soup; salsa quinoa salad; asian black soybean slaw.
The downside to this book: I think it needed a few more recipes.
The upside to this book: the index has a listing of oil-free, gluten-
free, and soy-free dishes, arranged alphabetically.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.

 

11. NOSH ON THIS; gluten-free baking from a Jewish-American kitchen
(The Experiment, 2013; distr. T. Allen, 274 pages, ISBN 978-1-61519-
086-7, $19.95 US paper covers) is by Lisa Stander-Horel and Tim Horel.
There is some heavy duty log rolling from other authors of gluten-free
or Jewish cooking. Most recipes come from the Eastern European
tradition. Chapter sections have headings: cookies, macaroons, bars and
brownies, cakes and cupcakes, pies and tarts, pastries, doughnuts,
breads and matzo, baked savouries, and others. Preparations have their
ingredients listed mostly in both metric and avoirdupois measurements,
but there is a table of metric equivalents. At the back, there is also
a list of resources, including a glossary/pantry/equipment table, along
with a store locator. Both celiac and Jewish baking Internet resources
are noted, and there is a handy Jewish holiday baking chart for seven
events, including Shabbat, Rosh Hashanah, Passover.
Audience and level of use: gluten-free food lovers.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: cherry chocolate cupcakes;
marble chiffon cake; baked jelly donuts; challah; crostata; hand pies.
The downside to this book: why all the endorsements?
The upside to this book: the Resources section is terrific.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.

 

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