WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR MARCH 1, 2014

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR MARCH 1, 2014

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By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.

Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium

"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1994. My LCBO tastings are based on MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.

 

 

====?>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *UNDER* $20

 

Bodegas Alitus Balbas Ardal Crianza 2005 Ribera del Duero, +167601, $17.95: and here we are 8.5 years later, with a Ribera drinking well, augmented by forest floor tones, fresh wood tones of vanilla and cream, and terrific black fruit. 14% ABV. Buy it all...QPR: 92.

 

====?>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *OVER* $20

 

Southbrook Triomphe Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 VQA NOTL, +1935723, $22.95.

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.

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1.Maison Roche de Bellene Vieilles Vignes Bourgogne Chardonnay 2011, +299867, $18.95: remarkable value if the label is correct: 65-year old vines, handpicked, 10% new oak. Astounding. QPR: 90.

2.Berthet-Rayne Tradition Cairanne Cotes du Rhone Villages 2011, +354100, $17.95: 14% ABV, bright, juicy, fruity, good depth and length but still best with food. QPR: 89.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.

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1.Featherstone Cabernet Franc 2012 VQA Niagara, +64618, $17.95: dark fruit and loaded with food-friendly tannins, twist top, 13% ABV. QPR: 89.

2.Rockway Vineyards Small Lot Cabernet Merlot 2011 VQA Twenty Mile Bench Niagara, +370346, $15.95: value packed, 13% ABV, twist top, engaging with a slight tartish finish, best with food.

3.Finca Sophrenia Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Mendoza Tupongato, +350090, $17: 14.5% ABV, needs time, but otherwise a smart purchase for its bright fruit and crafty designed toasty finish. QPR: 89.

4.Flagstone Treaty Tree Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2012 WO Western Cape: twist top, 14% ABV, California style of fruitiness, soft, approachable. Mocha, cherries, cream. QPR: 89.

5.Chateau La Gravette Lacombe 2010 Medoc, +295808, $19.95: good tasting Bordeaux for the price, 13.5% ABV, ready any day now.

6.Roux Pere & Fils La Moutonniere Pinot Noir Bourgogne 2012, +365064, $19.95: a classy Burgundy, 12.5% ABV, priced for Ontario. All-purpose pinot. QPR: 89.

7.Chateau Fontenelles Cuvee Renaissance 2010 Corbieres, +148692, $18.95: juicy in the North American appeal style, 14% ABV, largely syrah. Gold Medalist. QPR: 89.

8.Santa Duc Les Vieilles Vignes Cotes du Rhone 2009, +101543, $15.95: pretty good depth (old vines) and smokey toast. One to keep for awhile. QPR: 89.

9.Apollonio Squinzano 2008 Puglia, +362475, $17.95: Gold Medalist, 14% ABV, heavy-heavy density of ripe plums, mocha and darker fruit. "CalItal" comes to mind. QPR: 89.

10.Morgante Nero d'Avola 2011 IGT Sicilia, +40816, $16.95: deep and delicious, off-dry fruit feel, but best with food. 14% ABV. QPR: 89.

11.Bodegas Olarra Anares Reserva 2006 Rioja, +244723, $19.95: hard to beat this price point for a Rioja Reserva that is now 7.5 years old, and remains MVC delicious (mocha, smoke, plums) at 14% ABV. QPR: 90.

12.Lan Crianza 2010 Rioja, +166538, $15.95: the procession of valued Spanish reds continue with this notable traditional Rioja, 13.5% ABV. QPR: 89.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20

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Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10 markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1.Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Chardonnay 2010 VQA Niagara Peninsula, +33936, $30 retail.

2.Domaine du Chardonnay Vaillons Chablis 1er Cru 2010, +365106, $29.95.

3.Pascal Marchand Tawse Meursault 2011, +285866, $66.95.

4.Domaine Franck Millet Sancerre 2012, +297879, $26.95.

5.Farina Gran Colegiata Roble Frances Crianza 2008, +358796, $24.95.

6.Mitchell McNicol Shiraz 2004 Clare Valley So Australia, +278572, $44.95.

7.Domaine Vincent Prunier Volnay Les Mitans 1er Cru 2010, +356949, $57.95.

8.G.D.Vajra Albe Barolo 2008, +179879, $39.95.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

* THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...

...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text while keeping the focus tight. Some magazines will reissue popular or classic recipes in an "easy" format. Here are some recent "re-editions"...

 

 

14.WEEKNIGHT FRESH & FAST; simple, healthy meals for every night of the week (Weldon Owen, 2011, 2013, distr. Simon & Schuster, 240 pages, ISBN 978-1-61628-686-6, $24.95 US paper covers) is by Kristine Kidd, once food editor of Bon Appetit – for over two decades. This 2013 paperback reprint is the same as the 2011 edition; it restores it to print, with added stickers. The book covers some 100 quick ideas for dinner, much like Krieger's book above. It is in the Williams-Sonoma series of cookbooks for Weldon Owen publishers. The arrangement is by season, beginning with spring. It is loaded with tips for fresh and fast meals – well worth a look. Try spice-scented roast chicken and vegetables, clams with white beans and fennel, grilled shrimp and summer squash, or Asian-styled tofu-rice-broccoli salad. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no overall table of equivalents. Nice exciting photography of the plated dish. Quality/price rating: 87.

 

 

 

15.GLUTEN-FREE 101; the essential beginner's guide to easy gluten-free cooking (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2013, 240 pages, ISBN 978-1-118-53912-5, $19.99 US paper back) is by Carol Fenster, author of ten other cookbooks, including 1,000 Gluten-Free Recipes. Here she has 175 preps for everyday family dishes: pancakes, muffins, pizza, fried chicken, banana bread, cookies, cupcakes. The book has been around for a decade; it was last printed up in 2008 by Savory Palate publishers. As the author notes, these preps have been reviewed, revised, rewritten and reworked over the years, with input mainly from her students. It is also 30 preps larger. There are more whole-grain recipes, more dried bean and legume preps, more time saving techniques, more small meals, and more menus. She gives a framework for gluten-free flours and starches, including a recipe for a flour blend than uses sorghum, potato starch, and tapioca flours. This book is better than many other gluten-free books since the emphasis is on wheat/barley/rye replacement in breaded products. You could try some French bread or pumpernickel bread. I also like the fact that the largest typeface in the book has been reserved for the index, so you don't have to squint. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. There are also nutrient data for each recipe. Quality/price rating: 90.

 

 

 

16.KEEP CALM AND SLOW COOK (Thunder Bay Press, 2014, 240 pages, ISBN 978-1-60710-926-6, $19.95 CDN hard covers) is a strange publication: distributed in Canada by Raincoast but  published by Thunder Bay Press (Baker & Taylor imprint) and produced by Collins & Brown (Anova Books imprint of the UK), with a copyright for The National Magazine Company Ltd. The cataloguing data shows a Barbara Dixon as author, but otherwise she is nowhere to be found. The verso lists many photographers (so the pictures were leased?) and a dozen home economists and five food stylists. It is what we used to call in library land "bibliographically untidy". At least it has an index! Other than that, it is a hard bound collection of slow cook/braised recipes, ranging from tasty soups through fish, chicken, meats, veggies, and sweets. There is a chapter on slow cookers, but otherwise the book is about braises. No introduction is needed, apparently. Each prep has timings, service numbers, some minimal nutrition data, an indication of ease, and cook's tip. Try pasta and chickpea soup with pesto, or honey pork with roast potatoes and apples, or caramelized onion and goat cheese tart. The more than 100 preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 84.

 

 

 

17.KEEP CALM AND VEG(ETARIAN) (Thunder Bay Press, 2014, 240 pages, ISBN 978-1-60710-927-3, $19.95 CDN hard covers) is a strange publication: distributed in Canada by Raincoast but  published by Thunder Bay Press (Baker & Taylor imprint) and produced by Collins & Brown (Anova Books imprint of the UK), with a copyright for The National Magazine Company Ltd. The cataloguing data shows a Barbara Dixon as author, but otherwise she is nowhere to be found. The verso lists many photographers (so the pictures were leased?) and eleven home economists and six food stylists. It is what we used to call in library land "bibliographically untidy". At least it has an index! Other than that, it is a hard bound collection of vegetarian dishes, ranging from tasty soups through light bites, sides, mains, egg and cheese dishes, legumes, grains, pastas and pizzas, pies, pastries, breads and desserts. No introduction is needed, apparently. Each prep has timings, service numbers, some minimal nutrition data, an indication of ease, and cook's tip. Try

endive-blue cheese-walnut salad, cheese scone twists, roasted Mediterranean veggies, or artichoke and mushroom lasagna. The more than 100 preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.

Quality/price rating: 84.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

* THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOK...

...is one of the hottest trends in cookbooks. Actually, they've been around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are automatic best sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or the restaurant and/or the media personality. Many of the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but more often there is not. I'll try to point this out. The usual shtick is "favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks". There is also PR copy on "demystifying ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf also includes much use of the magic phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books) don't seem to work at home, but how could that be? The books all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. The celebrity books, with well-known chefs or entertainers, seem to have too much self-involvement and ego. And, of course, there are a lot of food photo shots, verging on gastroporn. There are endorsements from other celebrities in magnificent cases of logrolling. If resources are cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books –

 

 

9.WEEKNIGHT WONDERS; delicious, healthy dinners in 30 minutes or less (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2013, 304 pages, ISBN 978-1-118-40949-7, $29.99 US hard covers) is by Ellie Krieger, host of the Food Network's Healthy Appetite. She's also a registered dietician who has a Beard Award for a previous cookbook (The Food You Crave). Here, with log rolling from both Jacques Pepin and a "Food Network star", she gives us some 150 easy to prepare dishes for the busy cook who comes home late. Every prep can be done in 30 minutes or less, with an emphasis on fresh and flavour. From among the fish dishes, try pistachio-crusted tilapia, pasta in creamy tuna sauce with arugula, or mojito mahi mahi with mango and avocado. Of course, it helps to have the right ingredients handy, so there is advanced work in maintaining some kind of pantry inventory. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Nutritional data is given for each prep, and concludes serving sizes, calories, a breakdown of nutrients, and a an indication of how excellent the dish is as a source. Quality/price rating: 87.

 

 

 

10.THE POUND A DAY DIET (Grand Central Life & Style, 2014; distr. Hachette, 298 pages, ISBN 978-1-4555-2367-2, $26 US hard covers) is By Rocco DiSpirito, a former restauranteur who created Union Pacific in NYC and currently hosts "Restaurant Divided" on the Food Network. He's also written nine cookbooks; this is his tenth. Most of his books advocate weight reduction. Here he takes it more slowly, but the cover does scream out: "lose up to 5 pounds in 5 days by eating the foods you love". It comes with a forward by a medical doctor. There's a large disclaimer, beginning with the words "This publication is intended to provide helpful and informative material...". He says over 95% of the participants who followed the program as specified lost 6 pounds of fat in the first week. Then he goes on to say that all of the participants maintained or lost more weight  after going off the diet. It is basically a low-cal six-meal-per-day program, with little or no cooking or exercise. One of the keys is the weekend: go wild. So you are five days on and two days off, repeatable for as long as you want. As I lifelong dieter, I find the idea intriguing, but I also realize that the first five pounds off is mainly water. Still, there are 60 quick preps here, most with five ingredients or less. The important principle here is always to have a plan and to stick with it. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Nutrient contents are listed for each recipe. Quality/price rating: 85.

 

 

11.TARTINE BOOK NO. 3: modern ancient classic whole (Chronicle Books, 2013, 336 pages, ISBN 978-1-4521-1430-9, $40 US hard covers) is by Chad Robertson co-founder of Tartine Bakery in San Francisco. As the title says, it is number three in the series of baking books. He's also a Beard Award winner. This current book looks to ancient grains and flavours in a modern interpretation. So there are 85 recipes for whole-grain versions of Tartine specialties. There are also preps for porridge breads and sprouted grain breads. There are also some previous Tartine pastry recipes redone with whole gains and nut milks. Maybe next time Robertson could also redo everything with gluten-free flours – wouldn't that be a treat!! Bread reparations have their ingredients listed in baker's percentages and by metric weight. Other recipes have both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Try the sprouted emmer with maple and beer, or rye porridge. Quality/price rating: 88.

 

 

12.MIRAVAL'S SWEET & SAVORY COOKING (Hay House, 2014; distr. Raincoast, 206 pages, ISBN 978-1-4019-4190-1, $29.95 US hard covers) is by husband and wife Justine Cline Macy and Kim Macy, both culinary teachers and TV personalities – but also executive chef and pastry chef (respectively) at the Miraval Resort & Spa in Tucson Arizona. This is food that conforms to well-being and delicious treatments. It is also known as "spa food", and it is very useful to get you on track again. Sweet and savoury actually have no meaning (since all food is either sweet or savoury), except to indicate that there are items here for every type of course which includes a sweetener and/or salt. It is a complete package, as you find in a spa, with Kim's breakfasts, quick breads, yeast breads, cookies, bars, baked goods, cakes, custards, and Justin's soups, salads, appetizers, and mains. Both contribute side dishes. Along the way there are some pix and text about the resort, about the staff, and plated foods. It's a very nice package if you have ever been to a spa. Try some parmesan and olive crackers (gluten-free) or quinoa fettuccine with seasonal veggies. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are tables of equivalents at the back. Quality/price rating: 87.

 

 

13.COWGIRL CREAMERY COOKS (Chronicle Books, 2013,  256 pages, ISBN 978-1-4521-1163-6, $35 US hard covers) is by Sue Conley and Peggy Smith, co-founders of Cowgirl Creamery, a farmstead cheese producer in Point Reyes California. It is mostly cows' milk as the name implies, with some sheep and goat. The book has the story of the artisanal creamery and how it evolved into a force within the organic food movement. It's also got strong log rolling from Ina Garten, David Tanis and Suzanne Goin. There are 75 apps, soups, salads, snacks, mains, and desserts: Earl Grey panna cotta, chilled garlic and asparagus soup with crème fraiche, and blue butter on grilled rib-eye. The arrangement is by type of cheese, with preps for various parts of the meal strewn about each chapter. There's even a glossary. Material about cheeses include accompaniments for cheese, tasting, sorting, aging, pairing beverages, serving, storage – even a discussion about rinds. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

FOOD AND DRINK BOOKS IN REVIEW FOR JANUARY, 2014

 

2.THE HOME BREWER'S GUIDE TO VINTAGE BEER (Quarry Books, 2014, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-59253-882-9, $24.99 US spiral bound) is by Ronald Pattinson, a brewing historian now based in Amsterdam. He has collaborated on new batches of old beers with a variety of beer bloggers and craft brewers. This current work contains rediscovered recipes for classic brews dating from 1800 to 1965. This historical collection, also with modernized preps, allows you recreate the originals or adapt them to suit your own palate. It is mainly British in orientation, with chapters devoted to porter, stout, IPA, Scottish ales, pale ales/bitters, stock ale, and then moving on to light and European beers – all in 12 chapters. There are profiles for each beer, plus of course the recipes. There's an 1880 Whitbread FA, a 1910 Fuller's AK, an 1804 Barclay Perkins TT porter, an 1853 Younger XP, and a 1868 Tetley East India Pale Ale – 100 in all. The first 35 pages deal with brewing techniques and ingredients; there are also historical photos and label reproductions strewn about. At the end there is a glossary, a weights and measures conversion chart, and an index.

Audience and level of use: beer makers, libraries.

Some interesting or unusual facts: "Where rice was used extensively in the late nineteenth century might come as a surprise: Germany. The Reinheitsgebot was applied to the whole of Germany only in 1906".

The downside to this book: while the spiral binding is a plus for laying flat, it also leads to vandalism in libraries and bookstores. It may be safer to order it online.

The upside to this book: each chapter is preceded by a generous history of the style of beer.

Quality/Price Rating: 90.

 

 

3.THE ALL-NEW VEGETARIAN PASSPORT; 350 healthy recipes inspired by global cuisines Whitecap, 2013, 432 pages, ISBN 978-1-77050-179-9, $34.95 CDN paper covers) is by Linda Woolven, who specializes in natural health writing (she's written or co-authored more than six books, appeared in broadcasting, and has written newsletters and articles). Here she promotes the vegetarian diet which is higher in fibre, nutrients and anti-oxidants, and lower in bad fats – than meat-based diets. There is a lot of general health material as well as signpost logos which are attached to each prep: logos indicating that the dish is good for fighting cancer, or candida, celiac disease, diabetes, gout, heart disease, memory loss, multiple sclerosis, osteoarthritis, and/or rheumatoid arthritis. There is also a sign for indicating that the dish is vegan. The arrangement of the recipes is by region: North Africa and the Middle East, the Mediterranean, Europe, India, Asia, Latin America, North America – with a separate chapter for desserts and beverages. There's a glossary and some pantry advice. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no overall table of equivalents.

Audience and level of use: vegetarians, those needing more natural health.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: Greek feta, kefalotiri, and kale bake; pasta with chard and feta; grilled Asian vegetables; Mexican black bean soup; kidney bean and salsa salad; red potato, onion and celeriac salad.

The downside to this book: this book could get heavy use, and the binding may become less secure with time.

The upside to this book: the glossary and the signposts.

Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

 

 

4.WEEKNIGHT GLUTEN FREE; simple, healthy meals for every night of the week (Weldon Owen, 2013; distr. Simon & Schuster, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-61628-687-3, $24.95 US paper covers) is by Kristine Kidd, once food editor of Bon Appetit – for over two decades. It includes over 100 preps plus advice for the gluten-free lifestyle. She emphasizes cooking with the seasons, although the book is arranged by main ingredient (almost meatless, seafood, poultry, meat) followed by desserts. If you have gluten-intolerance you'll need to read packaging and labels carefully. Otherwise, you avoid wheat, barley, and rye (so this includes barley beer as well). The hardest part is bread-avoidance and cooking with flours. There is not much you can do about replacing the "chew" in breads, and the inventory for flours can be onerous in space. But this is still a nifty quick and easy cookbook for the weeknight. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no overall table of equivalents.

Audience and level of use: gluten-free eaters.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: lamb burgers with mint Greek salad topping; grilled skirt steak with Thai cucumber and peanut salad; quick herb-roasted pork and sweet potatoes; chopped salad with chicken, citrus, and avocado.

The downside to this book: not enough breaded substitutes.

The upside to this book: goods photography on the plating.

Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

 

5.PALEO ON A BUDGET; saving money, eating healthy (Front Table Books, 2013, 198 pages, ISBN 978-1-4621-1327-9, $19.99 US paper covers) is by Elizabeth McGaw, blogger at www.paleoonabudget.com from whence is derived this print book. It is, of course, dedicated to the paleo diet for the budget-conscious. The stress is on meat, eggs, nuts, vegetables and fruits in balance. Overall, the selection of food is based on being wallet-friendly, and also being healthy. But it is still a diet book, meant for everyday meals. The arrangement is by course – breakfast, soups/salads, snacks/sides, fish, chicken, meat, and "splurges". Paleo 101 and basic preps cover the first third of the book. She does her own photography, which is quite good. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.

Audience and level of use: paleo dieters and other looking for healthy budget food.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: coconut pumpkin cookies; panzanella salad; baked scallops; zucchini boats; almond butter truffles; broken-down burrito.

The downside to this book: I think it needs more recipes.

The upside to this book: nice looking index, with a large typeface and leading.

Quality/Price Rating: 87.

 

 

 

 

6.STUFFED; the ultimate comfort food cookbook (Page Street, 2014, 206 pages, ISBN 978-1-62414-011-2, $19.99 US paper covers) is by Dan Whalen, creator-blogger for www.thefoodinmybeard.com. As he explains, this book takes your fave comfort foods to the next level with extreme stuffed recipes. There are some log rolling endorsements, such as one from "Eater Boston". The idea is to combine popular foods, stuffing one with the other. So for mac and cheese, there are lobster stuffed fried mac and cheese balls, mac and cheese chile rellenos, mac and cheese raviolis, and mac and cheese stuffed burger (I don't suppose you would want to stuff macaroni? Too labour intensive). I find a little goes a long way, but the ideas are sound and useful. Arrangement is by main ingredient, so you have stuffed breads (sandwiches?), stuffed pasta/rice, stuffed meats, stuffed veggies/fruits, and stuffed sweets. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Good typeface size and leading in the index, and the pages lie flat.

Audience and level of use: home cooks, probably male.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: lasagna timpano; avocado eclairs; bacon avocado chicken salad stuffed tomatoes; jalapeno popper dog; turducken (of course); cheeseburger ravioli burger. Sfogliatelle and Epic Timpano too (although each could use a photo).

The downside to this book: a little goes a long way, but then comfort food is limiting.

The upside to this book: I love the way the book lies flat due to the page work from premium binding (stays open, hands free)

Quality/Price Rating: 89.

 

 

7. THE ARTISAN FOOD ENTREPRENEUR; profiles in passion and success (WWW Press - Quarry Books, 2014, 176 pages, ISBN 978-1-59253-894-2, $26.99 US paper covers) is by Jo Packham, President of Chapelle which publishes magazines such as Where Women Create and Where Women Cook. Here she presents success stories of 20 top professional small business women in the US artisanal food business. These are bios with pix of food entrepreneurs; typical businesses include The Santa Fe School of Cooking, Slide Ridge Honey, Queen City Cookies, and Dry Soda. These are stories of successful restaurant owners, caterers, farmers, bakers, and beekeepers among other occupations. Some of them are Beard winners, other are Child winners, some have a "top food blog", another has authored multiple cookbooks.

Audience and level of use: business schools, hospitality schools looking for role models.

The downside to this book:

The upside to this book:

Quality/Price Rating: 86.

 

 

8. STRAIGHT FROM THE EARTH; irresistible vegan recipes for everyone (Chronicle Books, 2014, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-4521-1269-5, $27.50 US soft covers) is by the mother-daughter team of Myra Goodman and Marea Goodman. Myra is the co-founder of Earthbound Farm. Here they advocate a plant-based diet, and since everything from their California business is organic, all the veggies should also be organic. There is some memoir-ish material about their lifestyle and vegans, followed by cooking tips and an arrangement of courses or ingredients. First up is breakfast, followed by salads, soups, apps, entrees, sides and desserts. At the end, there are the appendices: 11 theme menus and metric conversion charts, plus a chart on greenhouse gas emissions for common foods (the highest id=s for lamb, the lowest is for lentils and tomatoes). The 90 or so preparations have their ingredients listed in mainly avoirdupois measurements with some metric by weight, but there are tables of equivalents. Each recipes comes with nutritional data, and there are also some cooking charts.

Audience and level of use: great for vegetarians and vegans.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: Thai fresh spring rolls with peanut dipping sauce; pasta with creamy mushroom sauce; grilled fig sandwiches roasted pistachio pesto and balsamic caramelized onions; cabbage and carrot crunch salad.

The downside to this book: nothing really.

The upside to this book: straightforward, easy-to-read, uncomplicated.

Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

* FOOD AND DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH! *

1.THE CANADIAN CRAFT BEER COOKBOOK (Whitecap, 2013, 184 pages, ISBN 978-1-77050-193-5, $29.95 CDN soft covers) is by David Ort, a food and beer writer in Toronto (PostCity.com, TorontoLife.com, SpotlightToronto.com). Here he has developed preps for craft beers that can be found locally just about anywhere in Canada, ranging from abbey ale, India pale ale, barley wine, witbier, pilsen, brown, lager, bock – the full panoply. There is a rundown on pairing beers with food, and 75 or so preps for the full range of apps through salads, mains, desserts. Each has specific beer recommendations, so you might have to look around for comparable local brands. There are even some beer cocktails. The usual and expected are here: welsh rarebit, Flemish beef stew, stout braised lamb shanks. But there are also some new and welcomed interpretations. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents.

Audience and level of use: beer drinkers; cooks wanting to use beer and bittering agents.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: currywurst; brownies with spiced ale chocolate sauce; rapini with dopplebock; soba salad with sriracha dressing; witbier onion rings; IPA guacamole.

The downside to this book: there are a lot of pictures and some interesting profiles of people, but I would have appreciated more recipes in these spaces. The aim should have been for over 100 recipes.

The upside to this book: there's a bibliography for more reading and recipes.

Quality/Price Rating: 90.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

The Event: Australia Today 2014 Trade Show and Seminar, Feb 6/14

The Date and Time: Thursday, February 6, 2014  12:30 Pm to 5 PM

The Event: Australia Today 2014 Trade Show and Seminar

The Venue:AGO

The Target Audience: wine trade

The Availability/Catalogue: most of the wines are landed at the LCBO or in Consignment. The balance were private orders (PO) with estimated prices.

The Quote/Background: There was a seminar at 12:30, with an extensive waiting list so it was jam packed. John Szabo and Mark Davidson led the presentation which stressed evolving classics of distinct wines (chardonnay, pinot noir, and shiraz), primarily from Victoria. There were also "focus" tables in the trade area, showcasing old vines and chardonnays.

The Wines: I have folded in the seminar wines with the trade wines. I did not try every wine.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Yering Station Reserve Chardonnay 2012 Yerra Valley

-Yabby Lake Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2010 Mornington, $50

-Kooyong Ferrous Pinot Noir 2009 Mornington

-Fowles Wine Ladies Who Shoot Their Lunch Shiraz 2010 Strathbogie Ranges, $35

-Henschke Mount Edelstone Shiraz 2008 Eden Valley

-Camelback Sunbury Shiraz 2008 Victoria, $24.95

-Stella Bella Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2009 Margaret River, $32

-Hardy's Heritage Reserve Bin Chardonnay 2011 Pemberton and Yarra, $30 PO Mondia

-Mitolo Wines Serpico Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 McLaren, $52.95

-Petaluma Piccadilly Valley Chardonnay 2012 Adelaide Hills, $40 PO Select

-Schild Estate Edgar Schild Reserve Grenache 2012 Barossa, $54 PO Halpern

-Shaw + Smith Sauvignon Blanc 2012, $24.95 Lifford

-Saltram Winemakers Reserve Select Shiraz Tempranillo 2010 Barossa, $44.95

-Vasse Felix Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Margaret River, $49.95

-Yalumba Old Bush Vine Grenache 2012 Barossa, $24.95

-Penfolds Magill Estate Estate 2010 Barossa, $119.95 PO Treasury

-Yabby Lake Block 1 Chardonnay 2012 Mornington Peninsula, $85 PO Von Terra

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Wolf Blass White Label Chardonnay 2012 Adelaide Hills

-Yering Station Village Pinot Noir 2011 Yarra Valley

-Jamsheed Garden Gully Syrah 2012 Great Western, $60 PO Living Vine

-Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier 2005 Canberra District

-Brothers in Arms Side by Side Malbec 2012 Langhorne Creek, $37.75 PO Sylvestre

-Brothers in Arms No. 6 Shiraz 2009 Langhorne Creek, $26.65 PO

-Brothers in Arms No. 6 Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Langhorne Creek, $26.65 PO

-Stella Bella Chardonnay 2010 2009 Margaret River, $32

-Grant Burge Fisell Shiraz 2011 Barossa, $32.95 PO Trialto

-Grant Burge Corryton Park Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Barossa, $32.95 PO Trialto

-Heggies Eden Valley Chardonnay 2012, $34 PO Charton Hobbs

-Ringbolt 21 Barriques Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Margaret River, $44.95

-Jacob's Creek Reserve Chardonnay 2013 Adelaide Hills, $14.95

-Jamsheed Garden Gully Riesling 2013 Victoria, $40 PO Living Vine

-Jamsheed Beechworth Syrah 2012, $60

-Kilikanoon Killerman's Run Shiraz 2011 Clare, $39.95

-Mitolo Wines G.A.M. Shiraz 2010 McLaren, $39.95

-St. Hallett Blackwell Shiraz 2010 Barossa, $45

-Robert Oatley Signature Series Chardonnay 2012 Margaret River, $17.95.

-Shaw + Smith M3 Chardonnay 2012, $42.95 Lifford

-Shaw + Smith Shiraz 2010, $42.95 Lifford

-Wolf Blass Grey Label Shiraz 2010 McLaren, $34.95

-Wynns Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Coonawarra, $27.95

-Vasse Felix Heytesbury Cabernet Petit Verdot Malbec 2010 Margaret River, $94.95

-Yalumba The Y Series Vermentino 2011 South Australia, $19.95

-Yalumba Menzies The Cigar Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Coonawarra, $44.95

-Yalumba The Signature Cabernet Shiraz 2009 Barossa, $67.95 PO B&W

-Wolf Blass Gold Label Chardonnay 2012 Adelaide Hills, $22.95

-Penfolds Yattarna Chardonnay 2008 Tasmania and Adelaide Hills, $125

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Stonier Chardonnay 2012 Mornington Peninsula, $30

-Coldstream Hills Pinot Noir 2012 Yarra Valley, $29.95

-Kilikanoon Killerman's Run Prodigal Grenache 2012 Clare Valley, $29.95 PO Charton Hobbs

-Hardy's Tintara Shiraz 2012 McLaren Vale, $30 PO Mondia

-Henry's Drive Morse Code Chardonnay 2010 Padthaway, $13.95 PO Christopher Stewart

-Henry's Drive H Syrah 2012 Padthaway, $26.95 PO Christopher Stewart

-Jamsheed Harem Le Blanc Plonk Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Victoria, $26 PO Living Vine

-Jamsheed Harem La Syrah 2013 Victoria, $26 PO Living Vine

-Kilikanoon Killerman's Run Covenant Shiraz 2012 Clare, $39.95 PO Charton Hobbs

-Nugan Estate Alfred Dried Grape Shiraz 2012 SEA, $26.95

-Shingleback Davey Estate Shiraz 2011 McLaren, $24.95 PO Lifford

-Vasse Felix Chardonnay 2011 Margaret River, $27.95

-Hill Smith Estate Chardonnay 2010 Eden Valley, $19.95

 

The Food: international cheeses and breads, and panforte.

The Downside: we had to wait a half hour for the seminar to begin, but after tasting the wines I slipped out early to catch the show at 2PM.

The Upside: the seminar was extremely valuable, at least for letting me taste 12 wines ahead of the show itself (some of these wines were not even in the show).

The Contact Person: emily.england@wineaustralia.com; angela.slade@wineaustralia.com; popoffanne@gmail.com.

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 90.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

APVSA Tasting in Toronto

The Date and Time: Tuesday, January 14, 2014  11AM to 4PM

The Event: the bi-monthly APVSA tasting (Association pour la promotion des

vins et spiritueux en Amerique du Nord).

The Venue: Eaton Chelsea Inn

The Target Audience: wine agents.

The Availability/Catalogue: no wines are currently available in

Ontario. The group is here to get some agents to agree to rep the

principal. Some of the wines are available in Quebec and Alberta.

Most of the wines were French, and there is sales staff available to

comment on the prices and production. This road show also visits such

places as New York, Los Angeles, Seattle, Las Vegas, Calgary,

Vancouver, Miami, Washington DC, and Montreal. Occasionally, the show

will have wines from Canada, Italy, Uruguay, Spain and Australia.

Sometimes spirits and VDN are also available.

The Wines: The problem I had with the wines, and one that must be

acknowledged, is that (by and large) they were about the same as wines

that we already have here in Ontario. There really did not seem to be

any price advantages, either. But these 40 or so wines could be made

available through Vintages or Consignment. In the past, quite a few

have been picked up for sale in Ontario; these were mostly the good

value or unique wines. Here were my faves from today, regardless of FOB

cost. I did not try every wine, even though there were winery assistants this time.

The Wines: Prices are FOB. I did not taste every product.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Domaine Parigot Pommard Les Riottes 2011

-Champagne Waris Hubert Grand Cru Chardonnay, 13.5E

-Champagne Waris Hubert Blanc de Noirs Pinot Noir, 12E

-Champagne Waris Hubert Grand Cru Chardonnay Millesime, 18E

-Champagne Moussy Brut Classique Edition 2007, 10.40E

-Champagne Moussy Brut Cuvee de Reserve Edition 2007, 10.40E

-Champagne Piot Sevillano Brut Tradition, 13.60E

-Champagne Piot Sevillano Rose Brut, 15E

-Champagne Piot Sevillano Prestige, 17.50E

-Domaine L'Enclos des Jumeaux Enclos de la Chance Les Jumeaux 2012 Blanc

-Chateau de Thauvenay Sancerre 2012, 7.10E

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price

Rating terms):

-Chateau la Caderie Authentique 2008 Rouge Bordeaux, 4.83E

-Chateau la Caderie Authentique 2010 Rouge Bordeaux, 4.83E

-Domaine Parigot Pommard 1er cru Les Charmots 2011

-Domaine Parigot Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Beaune Clos de la Perriere 2011

-Chateau Montana Dialogue Cotes du Roussillon 2012, 2.90E

-Chateau Montana La Rouge Eternel Dialogue Cotes du Roussillon 2012, 3.50E

-Chateau Montana Cotes du Roussillon 2011, 5.50E

-Domaine L'Enclos des Jumeaux Enclos de la Chance Aiguillettes 2013 Blanc

-Chateau de Thauvenay Les Vignes du Baron Sancerre 2012, 5.72E

-Domaine de la Mayonette Cotes de Provence 2012 Rose, 3.50E

-Domaine de la Mayonette Cotes de Provence 2012 Blanc, 3.50E

-Domaine Guiot Chateau Nimois Nitoi 2012 Rouge [Rhone], 2.85E

-Domaine du Vistre Cuvee de Gladiateur AOP Costieres de Nimes 2009 Rouge

-Domaine du Vistre Cuvee de Gladiateur AOP Costieres de Nimes 2012 Rouge

-Chateau Landra Ventoux Les Boutieres 2010 Rouge

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Domaine Joncy Coteaux Bourguignone 2013 Rouge

-Chateau la Caderie Expression 2012 Rouge Bordeaux, 3.52E

-Chateau de Garde Bordeaux 2008 Rouge, 3.01E

-Chateau de Garde Bordeaux 2008 Blanc, 2.51E

-Domaine de la Mayonette 2012 Rose, 2E

-Domaine Guiot Chateau Numa 2011 Rouge [Rhone], 4.75E

-Chateau Landra Ventoux 2011 Rouge

-Chateau Landra Ventoux 2011 Blanc

 

The Food: great hot pizzas, which went well with the wines, as always.

The Contact Person: Pascal p.fernand@apvsa.ca

The Marketing Effectiveness/Execution of the Event (numerical grade):

85.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Wine Writers' Circle of Canada Annual Dinner, Jan 20, 2014

The Date and Time: Monday, January 20, 2014  6:15PM to midnight

The Event: the annual dinner of the Wine Writers' Circle of Canada, attended by members and their partners. It was terrifically well-organized by member Sheila Swerling-Puritt, an event planner/opinion maker who is also a WWCC member.

The Venue: Le Paradis

The Target Audience: ourselves – private party, for which we actually pay money.

The Availability/Catalogue: only one wine was available to all – a generous donation of six well-received Bottega sparklers (three proseccos and three roses) for the reception, accompanied by mushrooms on gaufettes and other canapes.

The Quote/Background: we get together every year in January for a dinner at some great restaurant in Toronto (previously, Edo, Tutti Matti, Mistura, Mideastro Bistro, Senses, Hemispheres, Royal York, etc.). In addition to paying for the dinner, each person is responsible for bringing a bottle of "good to great" wine, which is then shared by all.

The Wines:

 

There were a lot of good/great wines with the dinner, too many (over two dozen) to sample and to list – but I was struck by the Chateau Pichon Baron 1998, Trius Grand Reds of 2007 and 1999, the Urla Tempus 2010 from Turkey, the Graham's 30 Year Port, the 1974 Vintage Port, the Yatta white wine from Kenya in a tetrapak, the Cote Rotie 1998, the Kangaroo Springs Shiraz, Pommard, the Brunello, and the copious quantities of different Ontario icewines.

 

The Food: there was a set menu of French bistro food with lots of choices and courses (snails, duck, chicken, fish, salads, etc.). Everybody got a scrumptious grilled veal marrow bone – it certainly brought out the dogs.

The Downside: it was really cold outside.

The Upside: we were in a room all by ourselves, and comfortably fed by David Currie who also provided a great wait staff.

The Contact Person: spuritt@sympatico.ca

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): A plus, of course.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR FEBRUARY 15, 2014

*** PLEASE BE AWARE THAT SOME LCBO STORES STOCK NEW RELEASES ON THE THURSDAY AND FRIDAY BEFORE RELEASE DATES...THAT FAVE VALENTINE WINE CAN MOST LIKELY BE PICKED UP BEFORE OR ON FEBRUARY 14...

 

 

 

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR FEBRUARY 15, 2014

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.

Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium

"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1994. My LCBO tastings are based on MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.

 

*** PLEASE BE AWARE THAT SOME LCBO STORES STOCK NEW RELEASES ON THE THURSDAY AND FRIDAY BEFORE RELEASE DATES...THAT FAVE VALENTINE WINE CAN MOST LIKELY BE PICKED UP BEFORE OR ON FEBRUARY 14...

 

====?>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *UNDER* $20

 

Mountadam Vineyards Cabernet/Merlot 2009 Barossa, +641860: outstanding value at this price level, 14.6% ABV, twist top, already aged five years. War, approachable, intense, reminiscent of a Bordeaux with more sweet fruit. QPR: 90.

 

 

 

====?>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *OVER* $20

 

[HALF-BOTTLE ALERT] – Muga Reserva 2009 Rioja, +976928, $13.95 for 375 mL

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

1.Colome Torrontes 2012 Calchaqui Valley Argentina, +357913, $13.95: lip smacking delicious, off-dry, great for a Valentine's Day in Toronto, the natural home of torrontes!! Indeed, it reminds me of summer, which is needed after the wretched winter thus far. Twist top. QPR: 89.

3.Lawson's Dry Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2012 Marlborough, +214460, $17.95: very grassy savvy, Gold Medalist, more full body than most, good price. QPR: 89.

4.Paul Zinck Portrait Gewurztraminer 2011 Alsace, +367433, $19.95: twist top, with some more pronounced gewurz flavours minus the slight bitterness at the end. Off-dry. QPR: 89.

5.Joseph Drouhin Macon-Villages 2012, +356956, $17.95: this month's value white burgundy, attractive style for food with lovely finish. QPR: 89.

6.Terres Blanches Muscat Sec 2012 Pays d'Oc, +653188, $13.95: how do I say it? "gewurz without zee edge". QPR: 89.

7.Boutari Santorini 2012 Greece, +47985, $17.95: grassy, herby, good price for an acid spine meant for food. QPR: 89.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

1.Columbia Crest Grand Estates Cabernet Sauvignon 2011, +240093, $17.95: more than a match for their wonderful Merlot, 13.5% and juicy. QPR: 89.

2.Willow Bridge Dragonfly Shiraz 2011 Geographe Western Australia, +289249, $18.95: good intensity of Shiraz fruit, twist top, 13.5% ABV. QPR: 89.

3.Domaine des Ouches Igoranda Bourgueil 2011, +283424, $16.95: very useful food wine, slightly weedy and savoury, only 12.5% ABV. QPR: 89.

4.Poderi Angelini Primitivo di Manduria 2008 Puglia, +268136, $18.95: already five years old, still alive and kicking at 15% ABV. It's also a very heavy bottle, so it must be serious: only those with a six-pack can hoist it. QPR: 89.

5.Torre Saracena Riserva Salice Salentino 2009 Puglia, +362442, $16.95: deep dark chocolate tones, 13.5% ABV, check rated. QPR: 89.

6.Tasca d'Almerita Cygnus Nero d'Avola/Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 IGT Sicilia, +909911, $19.95: mint dominates, pull it out as a surprise mystery wine and let everybody think it is from California. 14% ABV. QPR: 89.

7.Tenuta Sant'Antonio Monti Garbi Ripasso Valpolicella Superiore 2010, +165126, $17.95: the Ripasso of the Month at the LCBO. 14% ABV. QPR: 89.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10 markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1.Southbrook Vineyards Triomphe Chardonnay 2012 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, +172338, $22.95 retail.

2.Mud House The Woolshed Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2011 Marlborough, +312744, $20.95.

3.Waterkloof Circle of Life White 2011 WO Stellenbosch, +284588, $24.95.

4.Chateau des Charmes Paul Bosc Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir 2010 VQA St.David's Bench Niagara, +332858, $35.

5.Tahbilk Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Nagambie Lakes Victoria, +138818, $21.95.

6.Daniel Rion & Fils Vieilles Vignes Nuits-Saint-Georges 2011, +356600, $53.95.

7.Chateau de Gaudou Renaissance Cahors 2010 Cuvee Boisee, +364786, $22.95.

8.Verbena Brunello di Montalcino 2008, +165126, $39.95.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

LCBO's Winter Wine Release (Caparzo Sangiovese) launch at Tutti Matti, Jan 23/14

The Date and Time:  Thursday, January 23, 2014, Noon – 3 PM

The Event: Luncheon with Elisabetta Gnudi Angelini, proprietor of Caparzo, Doga delle Clavule, and Borgo Scopeto in Tuscany. The purpose was to introduce the new LCBO listing Caparzo Sangiovese 2011 IGT Toscana (+361022, $12.95). It is this year's Winter Wine Release at the LCBO.

The Venue: Tutti Matti

The Target Audience: wine media/bloggers

The Availability/Catalogue: wines appear from time to time through the LCBO. Here, only the Caparzo Sangiovese is at the LCBO. The rest are all through the agent.

The Quote/Background: The Winter Wine Release is a limited time offering via the LCBO; it is always red (in summer there is a white Summer Wine Release). The wine comes from three separate estate vineyards in Tuscany, those responsible for Chianti, Brunello and Maremma. Delicious black and red berries, some vanilla tones. Mostly food, but can also be a sipper at a party.

The Wines:

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Borgo Scopeto Chianti Classico 2010, $18.95

-Tenuta Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino 2008, $39.95

-Tenuta Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino La Casa Single Vineyard 2000

-Tenuta Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino La Casa Single Vineyard 2004

-Tenuta Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino La Casa Single Vineyard 2006

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Caparzo Sangiovese 2011 Toscana IGT, +361022, $12.95. Twist top.

-Tenuta Caparzo La Grance 2005 IGT Toscana [white, 75% BF chardonnay], $21.95

-Tenuta Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino La Casa Single Vineyard 2008, $61.75

-Tenuta Caparzo Moscadello di Montalcino Vendemmia Tardiva 2006, $26.75 375 mL

 

The Food: owner-chef Alida Solomon matched her food with the wines, both being reflective of Tuscany. The antipasti was a selection of bruschetta and crostini, fried pancetta, rabbit terrine, headcheese, pecorinos, veggie pickles, white beans, prosciutto, and pate (with the Sangiovese and La Grance). The wild board ragu was with the Chianti; the braised short ribs with the Brunello 2008, while the cheeses (60 day pecorino and aged pecorino) went with the Brunello La Casa 2000, 2004, 2006, and 2008. Afterward, we all had coffees, biscotti from Italy, and the Moscadello. Terrific matching.

The Downside: it was cold outside and noisy inside.

The Upside: a chance to talk with a winery proprietor.

The Contact Person: joy@thecaseforwine.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 91.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Domaine de l'Arjolle Tasting Jan21/2014 Toronto

The Date and Time: Tuesday, January 21, 11AM to 1PM

The Event: Tasting a selection of wines from Domaine de l'Arjolle, represented in Ontario by HHD Imports [www.hhdimports.com]

The Venue: LCBO Summerhill Store #10

The Target Audience: wine writers

The Availability/Catalogue: only two wines are in the Ontario marketplace (the Zinfandel and the Sauvignon Blanc/Viognier) – the rest are private orders.

The Quote/Background: the tasting was led by Geoffroy de la Besnardiere, winemaker for the domaine which is owned in conjunction with Chateau Massamier La Mignarde and Chateau La Croix Martelle. The wines are from the IGP Cotes du Thongue appellation of the Languedoc, and are reflective of biodiversity naturalness. While the rules of the Thongue appellation allow for a free choice of grapes (such as zinfandel), the overarching rules of France's appellations prohibit more than a Vin de France label. Their one hectare of zinfandel, planted in the 1980s, is still the only growth in France.

The Wines:

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Domaine de L'Arjolle Z Zinfandel 2011 Vin de France, 14% ABV, +346072, $19.95.

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Domaine de L'Arjolle Equilibre Viogner Sauvignon Blanc 2013 [60/40] $15.95 Private

-Domaine de L'Arjolle Cabernet Merlot 2012 [60/40] $15.95 Private order

-Domaine de L'Arjolle K Carmenere 2010 Vin de France, $19.95 Private order

-Domaine de L'Arjolle Cabernet 2011 [70CS/30CF] $21.95 Private order

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-L'Arjolle Sauvignon Blanc Viognier 2012 [60/40], +348904, $11.95.

-L'Arjolle Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 [60/40] $11.95 private order

 

The Food: pate, two blue cheeses, breads, summer sausage.

The Downside: it was a cold day

The Upside: a chance to talk with the winemaker, who had an extensive q and a with us.

The Contact Person: info@hhdimports.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 89.

 

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...

..all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback
reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher
a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will
reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will
rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text
while keeping the focus tight. Some magazines will reissue popular or
classic recipes in an "easy" format. Here are some recent "re-
editions"...

20. COOKING AT HOME WITH THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA. Rev. ed.
(Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2013, 408 pages, ISBN 978—0-470-58781-2,
$35 US hard covers) presents the essentials of cooking: tools and
equipment, ingredients, pantry, techniques. It was originally published
by Wiley in 2003, selling at $60. This edition has 104 more pages, and
now has 250 new recipes and new colour photography. There are scores of
cooking techniques which are explained, with full instructions and
photos of processes, followed by basic recipes with more photos of
platings. The book starts with soups (and stocks) such as Thai hot and
sour soup, moving through the menu to desserts such as bread and butter
pudding. The basic and the classic are presented, with plenty of paged
cross-references from a recipe to the techniques involved. Gone, for
example, are the chicken thighs with duxelles stuffing and the braised
rabbit. Basics also include southern fried chicken and chicken breasts
made with diverse sauces. Classics include duck and orange sauce, osso
buco, and paella Valenciana. While there are illustrations of what you
can do with a knife (e.g., chop, dice, julienne, etc.), there are no
detailed instructions nor illustrations on how to hold the knife, nor
on the stroke action. What I do like about this book is its
authoritative style, very useful for beginners. Preparations have their
ingredients listed only in avoirdupois measurements, but there are
tabled of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88, for the home
cook

21. COUTURE CHOCOLATE; a masterclass in chocolate (Jacqui Small LLP,
2011, 2013, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-909342-45-3, $29.95 US soft covers)
is by William Curley, four time winner of Best British Chocolatier
award from the Academy of Chocolate. There's also log rolling from
Heston Blumenthal and Marco Pierre White, amongst others. This current
book, originally published in 2011, won the Guild of Food Writers
Cookery Book of the Year award in 2012. It is a colourful book
examining origins and bean qualities, plus other items in a chapter
dealing with essentials. This is followed by classes in truffles, bars,
bouchees, cakes, patisserie, ice cream and sauces, and so forth. It's a
DIY book, with absolutely gorgeous photos. There's a glossary, and a
resources list (almost all of it is British). Try chocolate and
pistachio cake, milk chocolate and jasmine granita, or caramelized
white chocolate and miso ice cream in coconut and orange cone.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 89.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

Restaurant Australia and Wine Australia celebrate Australia Day Jan 23, 2014

The Date and Time: Thursday, January 23, 2014   5:30PM to 9 PM

The Event: Restaurant Australia celebrates Australia Day, with creations by Chef John Placko and appropriate wines.

The Venue: The 2nd Floor, King Street West.

The Target Audience: wine media/bloggers/opinion makers

The Availability/Catalogue: wines are in the LCBO system

The Quote/Background: Last year, we had a sit down dinner for Oz Day with Oz Chef John Placko, a molecular gastronomy consultant and chef at Humber College. There were only a few wines which nobody talked about, and only 24 people at the dinner. This year, there was similar food, but with more wines (and pourers to talk about them) and more trade (over 100). The drawback was that it was all stand up, noisy, and hard to match wines with other dishes. For awhile, until I brought it up, there were no spit buckets. Indeed, the quote of the day was "This is not a spit bucket event". Nevertheless, it was successful in exposing a lot of wine and a lot of food to a lot of people. As before, it was a joint effort with Tourism Australia, Wine Australia, and Air New Zealand.

The Wines: I may have missed some wines that were not put out until later.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Robert Oatley Tic Tok Pocket Watch Cabernet Sauvignon 2011.......$15.95

-Are You Game Shiraz 2010.....$16.95

-Stone Dwellers Cabernet Sauvignon 2012......$19.95

-Evans & Tate Metricup Road Shiraz 2010 Margaret River - $22.95

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Day Trippers Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 2013.....$9.95

-Stonier Pinot Noir 2012 Mornington Peninsula.....$26.95

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Brokenwood Cricket Pitch Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 2011.........$18.95

-Sticks Chardonnay 2010 Yarra - $19.95

-Little Yering Pinot Noir 2012......$19.95

-Chapel Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 McLaren Vale....$24.95

-Yalumba Y Series Viognier 2012..... $16.95

 

The Food: service was a la carte and a la minute, so there were lineups after 6PM when most people arrived. I guess with the younger crowd, everybody is used to lineups and noise. The trade was chatty, checked their email, talked on the cell, took pictures, etc. – while waiting. I read a book.

Menu – from Victoria, there was a white strip lamb served with minted cucumber, four year old cheddar, pickled apple, apricot paste. 7 wines from Victoria joined the food.

From New South Wales, there were lemon myrtle prawns with caramelized onion sponge and roasted macadamia crumbs and a dill fluid gel. With Pocket Watch and Cricket Pitch.

From South Australia, kangaroo and pepperberry sliders, quandong peach relish. Chapel Hill and Y Viognier here.

Things started slowing down with the wines – the barramundi with wilted greens, the butternut squash with goat cheese crumbs (my fave of the evening), and the wattle seed ice cream together got Evans and Tate Shiraz.

At the end, the great Tim Tam Slam!!

The Downside: it was cold outside and after a busy stand up day, I had to stand up some more (there was limited seating).

The Upside: good exposure of food and wine, although no notes or lineups were provided until after the event. Apparently, I was the only one taking notes – maybe that's old style? Maybe I wasn't supposed to?

The Contact Person: giovana.chichito@ketchum.com;  stacey.grimshaw@ketchum.com; johneplacko@gmail.com; popoffanne@gmail.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 87.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com
AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
AND https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Dean Tudor, Ryerson University Journalism Professor Emeritus
Treasurer, Wine Writers' Circle of Canada
Look it up and you'll remember it; screw it up and you'll never forget it.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com

Restraurant/Celebrity Cookbooks

...is one of the hottest trends in cookbooks. Actually, they've been
around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are
automatic best sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant
or TV show and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere,
doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network.
Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or
the restaurant and/or the media personality. Many of the recipes in
these books actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved.
Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or
recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be
related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are
American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients;
sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but more often there
is not. I'll try to point this out. The usual shtick is "favourite
recipes made easy for everyday cooks". There is also PR copy on
"demystifying ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf also includes much use of
the magic phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as if that is what it takes
to sell such a book. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food
writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books)
don't seem to work at home, but how could that be? The books all claim
to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food
researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and
advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant
world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. The celebrity
books, with well-known chefs or entertainers, seem to have too much
self-involvement and ego. And, of course, there are a lot of food photo
shots, verging on gastroporn. There are endorsements from other
celebrities in magnificent cases of logrolling. If resources are cited,
they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some
companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them
altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books –

13. PERFECT PATISSERIE; mastering macarons, madeleines and more
(Firefly Books, 2013, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-77085-211-2, $24.95 CAN
hard covers) is by Tim Kinnaird, owner of Macarons & More. It was
launched after Kinnaird reached the finals of the BBC's MasterChef show
in 2010. His recipes are in two cookbooks derived from that show. He
also sells online at www.macaronsandmore.com. This book is for the home
baker, with details on how to make the various parts and how to
assemble them. It's fully and richly illustrated, with tips and advice
for a range of foods dealing with choux paste, tarts, gateaux,
entremets, petits fours, fillings and frostings, plus decorating.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no overall table of equivalents.
There is also a glossary and a resource list. Try apple crumble and
custard caramel éclairs, maple syrup-bacon-blueberry macarons, green
tea and white chocolate and lemon delice, or arlette cookies. Have fun!
Quality/price rating: 86.

14. PAYARD DESSERTS (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2013, 360 pages, ISBN
978-1-118-43589-2, $40 US hard covers) is by Francois Payard, owner of
Payard Patisserie & Bistro and other places in NYC. In 1995 he won a
Beard Award as Pastry Chef of the Year, and since then he was been
accoladed by his profession. He is one of 85 "best pastry chefs in the
world" via his membership in Relais Desserts International. Even so, he
needs a boatload of eight log rollers, including Thomas Keller, Dorie
Greenspan, Eric Ripert and Daniel Boulud. His focusing food writer is
Tish Boyle, an experienced dessert food writer, recipe developer, and
cookbook author. She does the instructions, ingredients and equipment,
but the preps are his. Chapters have section s that incorporate frozen
desserts, fruit desserts, pastries, meringues, custards, mousses,
tarts, soufflés, crepes, cold dessert soups, and even the cheese course
(warm ricotta tart, gorgonzola ice cream, chevre cheese, and more).
Each dessert also includes a beverage pairing suggestion from Olivier
Flosse, sommelier of A Voce restaurants in NYC: wine, beer, liqueur,
cocktail. Some specific brands are mentioned, but many are not.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. If you
do these procedures a lot, the recipes are not really complicated: you
just need to run through them a few times. For a four-hour baked apple
napoleon with caramel chantilly and caramel sauce, you'll need some
time, five recipes (including one for spiced tuiles) plus some assembly
instructions that are easier than IKEA. Quality/price rating: 88.

15. MODERN NATIVE FEASTS; healthy, innovative, sustainable cuisine
(Arsenal Pulp Press, 2013, 189 pages, ISBN 978-1-55152-507-5, $21.95
paper covers) is by Andrew George Jr. who had earlier written A FEAST
FOR ALL SEASONS; traditional native peoples' cuisine (Arsenal Pulp
Press, 2010). He was recently head chef at the Four Host First Nations
pavilion at the 2010 Winter Olympics. He was also involved with the
World Culinary Olympics as part of the first all-Native team in the
competition's history. He instructed at the Kla-how-eya cooking school,
and also develops Native menus for restaurants and hotels
internationally. There are over 100 preps here for a variety of
appetizers, salads, soups, and mains that match traditional native
ingredients with modern flavours and techniques. In time for the 2013
holidays are the recipes for buffalo and cranberry stew, venison
tourtiere, and wild berry crumble. Other foods from native areas of
Canada, such as salmon, wild duck, oysters, caribou and elk are also
here. The emphasis is on "feast" foods and ceremonies, for a gathering
small or large; it could even be a family dinner. There are cultural
food notes. Try moose cannelloni, cranberry sweet and sour goose
breast, spicy elk wraps, or even three-game meatballs. Preparations
have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements with some
metric weights, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 88.

16. GREAT HOMEMADE SOUPS; a cook's collection (Jacqui Small, 2013, 232
pages, ISBN 978-1-909342-23-1, $40 US hard covers) is a collection of
some 100 soup recipes, mostly from award-winning Chef Paul Gayler of
The Lanesborough (London). He's been on British TV and has over 20
cookery books under his name. It's a "master class" book, with
templated recipes to replicate or expand on. He's also got some guests
chefs: Daniel Boulud, Pierre Koffman, Susan Spicer, and five more.
There's the basic primer about soups and stocks and equipment. This is
followed by clear soups and consommés, smooth and creamy, hearty and
wholesome, some British favourites, wild and exotic soups, and chilled
soups (only a few are fruit-based). Globally, there is pho from
Vietnam, ajiaco from Colombia, miso noodle soup from Japan, and a
chickpea and fennel soup from Sardinia. One of my faves is the yam-
peanut-ginger soup from Ethiopia. Great photographs, but a tiny font
for the index makes it difficult to locate a recipe. Preparations have
their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements,
but there is no table of equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 88.

17. DELICIOUS SOUPS; fresh and hearty soups for every occasion (Ryland,
Peters & Small, 2013, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-463-7, $24.95 US hard
covers) is by Belinda Williams, founder of the Yorkshire Party Company
(events and catering) and the Yorkshire Provender. She's been busy
designing soups for the latter. There are about 60 preps here, arranged
by style of soup. It is much the same as Gayler's book above, but with
fewer recipes. Her chickpea soup is a Moroccan harira; there is no pho
or miso. But there is a nifty sunchoke soup with sorrel and sage, and a
field mushroom soup or a creamy coconut and lamb soup. Preparations
have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois
measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price
rating: 86.

18. THE MODEL BAKERY COOKBOOK (Chronicle Books, 2013, 208 pages, ISBN
978-1-4521-1383-8, $35 US hard covers) is by Karen Mitchell and her
daughter Sarah, along with Rick Rodgers as the focusing food writer.
Karen founded Napa Valley's Model Bakery in 1984, and Sarah expanded it
to a market in 2008. Here are 75 preps featuring their most requested
foods: breads, desserts, fresh pastries – mostly along the lines of
pain au levain, sticky buns, peach streusel pie and ginger molasses
cookies. Model Bakery has been described as the quintessential hometown
bakery. Preparations have their ingredients listed in mainly metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no overall table of metric
equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.

19. THE FOUR & TWENTY BLACKBIRDS PIE BOOK; uncommon recipes from the
celebrated Brooklyn pie ship (Grand Central Life & Style, 2013, 224
pages, ISBN 978-1-4555-2051-0, $30 US hard covers) is by Emily and
Melissa Elsen, whose mother once owned the Calico Kitchen in South
Dakota. Her daughters later established Four & Twenty Blackbirds pie
and coffee shop in Brooklyn in 2010, and since then they seem to have
been featured all over the NYC media. There are 60 preps here, arranged
by season starting with spring, and with many photographs (some
illustrating techniques). With its lack of fresh fruit, winter brings
more nuts and citric pies, such as malted chocolate pecan pie,
grapefruit custard pie, lemon chess pie, buttermilk chess pie, or green
chili chocolate pie. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 88.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com

New wines tasted this month

SOME NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH --

 

 

From Pelee Island Winery,

 

1.Pelee Island Vinedressers Cabernet Sauvignon/Petit Verdot VQA Ontario 2010, +530000 Winery, $19.95: gobs of both red and black fruit, mocha and toast, some drying in evidence at this stage, good food wine. 13% ABV. French, US and Hungarian oak used. 75% Cabernet. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

2.Pelee Island Vinedressers Cabernet Sauvignon VQA Ontario 2010, +530576 LCBO, $16.25: typical MVC for Cabernet, with black fruit and toastiness. Needs time, certainly. One to lay down. 13% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

3.Pelee Island Vinedressers Chardonnay VQA Ontario 2012, winery only, $14.95: a modestly priced rich chardonnay, brimming with fruity tones and a good body, almost late harvest in depth. Creamy and some vanilla and spicing, but little evidence of oaking. 13% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

4.Pelee Island Barrique Chardonnay VQA Pelee Island 2005, winery only, $13.95: still available, an amazing survivor through eight years of cellaring. Lots of life, somewhat off-dry, late harvested, excellent body and smokey. Food or sip (or both). Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

5.Pelee Island Singing Moon Pinot Blanc VQA Ontario 2012, LCBO Limited Release Wines to Watch Spring 2014, +326000, $14.95: with apple and citrus tones, this is like a lean, low alcohol (only 10% ABV) chardonnay suitable for a social wine gathering. Pinot Blanc is not seen too often in Ontario. Some auxerrois (14%) has been added for spine. Twist top. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

6.Pelee Island Pinot Grigio VQA Ontario 2012, +326413, $13.95: good colour from the Gris component, 12.5% ABV. Flavours of stone fruit but with some pear drops, rich, mid-palate crispness, perhaps better with food. 15% chardonnay added. Twist top. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

7.Pelee Island Pinot Gris Vendange Tardive VQA Pelee Island 2008, winery only, $16.95: probably one of the finest wines Pelee IW has ever made (of course, it is a personal fave of mine), in the distinct Alsatian style of (almost) late harvested Pinot Gris: rich, mid-sweet on the palate, but comforting. Definitely in the Gris mode and not the Grigio style. Already five years old and improving since I last had it, accented by pear tones which have gained strength as the wine ages. 13.5% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

8.Pelee Island Alvar Pinot Noir VQA Ontario 2010, +458521, $15.95: one of their top end pinots, consistent from year-to-year. This vintage shows off much red fruit (cherries) and some vegetative patches (earth, mushrooms, herbs) good for food. 13% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com