WORLD WINE WATCH -- special March 16 2019 hiatus edition...

WORLD WINE WATCH  -- special March 16 2019 hiatus edition...

 

Below I have posted two sets of notes. The first is a collection of my tasting notes from bottles I have been sent. These bottles tend to rate a bit higher than my LCBO lab notes because I've more time to taste and re-taste what I have opened in the nice relaxed atmosphere of my home. My lab notes are one-shot sips of 100 or more table red and white wines, perfect for ADHD quick assessments. Yeah, it is a hard life.

 

The second set of notes come from my speculation on the value of the wines I would have tasted in the lab, such speculation being derived from tasting earlier vintages and knowing that the wine is reliable. Thus, I have NOT tasted the latest LCBO offering of this product. But I can be reasonably sure that it would be GOOD, BETTER or BEST, and so I have rated the wines that way within those broad categories. I would expect them to be consistent and within one or two points of an actual tasting of that harvest year.

 

See ALL of my notes at www.deantudor.com

 

 

The LCBO will let me be back in action for the April 13 release.

 

1.SOME NEW BEVERAGE SAMPLES SENT TO ME FOR TASTING REVIEWS THIS MONTH –

 

Abeille-Fabre Chateau Mont-Redon Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2015, +959627, $45.95 Vintages: a bargain wine for its price (up only two bucks since the 2011 vintage), but still too young to consume unless you double-decant and drink it over a few days. Half of the wine was made in barrels, the other half in vats. A selection of the better barrels is made into a single blend after 18 months, and stored for four to six months before release. It will be well-aged after another 10 years. Of the 13 permitted varieties, grenache, syrah, and mourvedre are dominant, with cinsault, counoise, muscardin, and vaccarese added. Still tight but plenty of black fruits and spices. 14.5% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

Luigi Bosca Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2015 Mendoza, +128629, $19.95 Vintages March 2019: black fruit dominates this substantial wine. Made from older vines (many are 50 years old). Ageing in French and US oak barrels for 14 months, still needs time to resolve despite 4 years of age. 14.2% ABV, a hefty thick wine that dominates. Best for carnivores? You decide. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

Bonnet & Associates Chateau Vrai Caillou 2016 Bordeaux Superieur, +348292, $15.95 March 16 Vintages: Mostly merlot (55%) from the "Entre deux Mers" region which excels in quantities of value Bordeaux. Aged a year in both tanks and barrels, and could age a bit more in your cellar (or do a double-decant and wait an hour). Red fruit dominates, edged by some plumminess. Food ideas basically suggest lamb roast and cheeses. 12.5% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 88.5 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

Gerard Bertrand Grand Terroir Corbieres 2015 $18.95 +394288 Vintages: In this Terroir Corbieres, Bertrand uses carbonic maceration for the syrah and traditional fermentation for the grenache and mourvedre. It is an appealing Rhonish G-S-M, with the blended wine aging in wood for eight months before bottling. Very firm with some fruit on the full finish. 14% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

Baron de Hoen Cremant d'Alsace Brut Mausberg Blanc de Blancs NV, +171785 Vintages, $17.95: Limestone pebbles are responsible for the higher acid of the pinot auxerrois and pinot blanc grapes used in the blend here. Traditional Method is used, of course, without any ML. It is a pretty wine, with a bit of fruit, but is better as an aperitif or with first courses. My wife and I enjoyed this bottle with popcorn and a movie at home. It's sustainable agriculture in the region, and with a huge production of some 600,000 bottles (50K cases), there is an opportunity to keep the price down. This is a re-order by Vintages. 12.5% ABV, 3.8 g/L TA and 10 g/L RS. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

Henry of Pelham Cabernet-Merlot Estate 2015 VQA Short Hills Bench, +395855 Vintages, $24.95: both cabernets franc (4%) and sauvignon (50%) are used in this Bordeaux-styled blend which comes across as a mid-Atlantic version of Cali/Bordeaux New World and Old World. It is still in its youth at 3 years of age, and it would be a shame to consume it this young. You could do what I did: open it and drink it over a couple of weeks, exposing it to air gently or speeding up the process by double-triple decanting. You will get several different wines out of one bottle over the course of time. Extended maceration in stainless, followed by French and US oak (40% new) for 18 months. Currently, you could match it with heavy meats. 13.5% ABV on label. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

Baron de Hoen Gewurztraminer Reserve 2017 Alsace, +377721 Vintages $19.95: from around Beblenheim area, cool fermentation with typical gewurz tones of spices, lychee, roses. 12.5% ABV, and RS of 15 g/L (off-dry). Best as aperitif, or with fragrant cheeses, spicy foods. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

Chateau des Charmes Pinot Noir 2017 Estate Grown &  Bottled VQA NOTL, +454967, $16.95 LCBO: A lovely young wine, with some forest floor (mushrooms, earth) to complement the red fruit (strawberries are hinted by the winemaker). Estate grown and bottled. Good written notes on the back label are spot on. Just under subtle oaking, with a moderate intensity of medium flavours. Ready to drink now. Cork closure, 12.5% ABV. Try with lamb burgers. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

  

Chateau des Charmes Pinot Noir 2016 Paul Bosc Estate Vineyard VQA St.David's Bench,+332858, $38.95 at winery, online, boutiques: Quite a powerful wine, lots of stylish Burgundian forest floor (mushrooms, earth) to complement the red berry fruit. It was last produced in 2014 (some years were declassified). Needs some time, maybe three more years. 13% ABV. It will also show better with food such as an Asian salmon preps or veal or lamb. Cork closure. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

Sartori di Verona "Corte Bra" Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2011 DOCG, $49.95, +225540 Vintages March: this wine has aged nicely (7 years now; initially 4 years in small oak) and becomes more of a bargain at this price level. 15.5% ABV puts it in the bigger leagues. Black fruit dominates the nose and palate, lots of body, lush and luscious in a Juicy Lucy style, and a long finish. Unfiltered. We had it with aged sheep and water buffalo cheeses from Monforte (Ontario). Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

Buena Vista Winery Chateau Buena Vista Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 Napa Valley, $59.95 +539106 Vintages March 16: a top of the line Napa cab with its richness, denseness and opulence from Oak Knoll and St. Helena vineyards. After 28 months in French oak (35% new) it was racked and bottled unfiltered. Tons of black fruit and mocha tones with spices suggestive of cardamom – and a long, long finish. Still needs time, a cellar keeper. Do a double decant or leave it open for a week to get a taste of its potential. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

Berger-Rive Manoir de Mercey Rully En Rosey Red 2015 #635623, $32.95 Vintages: From the Cote Chalonnaise, this is an old vines pinot noir Burgundy that is pretty consistent from year to year (and they've kept the price down too). After fermentation it goes into wood (about a quarter of the volume is put into new oak) for a year's aging. Typical ripe red fruit with vanilla wood, but also soft which appeals to many North American tastes. Should be cellared another year. Smart buy at this price. 12.5% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

Henry of Pelham Chardonnay Speck Family Reserve 2017 VQA Short Hills Bench +616466 Vintages April $29.95: Grapes come from their oldest estate vineyards (1984 onward), hand-picked. Barrel fermented in French oak with a portion in 3000L foudres, and then barrel aged for 8 – 10 months in a mix of new and older barrels. This continues the tradition of Burgundian elegance. Expect some ripeness, balance of oaking and fruit, integrated style in place. Wood integration produces some creaminess in the finish. 13.3% ABV, cork closure. Definitely needs another year – or more – in bottle in order to bring out the nuances. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

Henry of Pelham Pinot Noir Estate 2017 VQA Short Hills Bench Niagara, +268391 Vintages March 30, $24.95: Here is a deft Burgundian-character pinot noir wine, with cherry-berry tones, some toast, mildly opulent style, not totally cool climate at all. Fermented in stainless and aged in "European" oak (30% new) for 10 months. Ready in a year or two. Dependable. And also available in Denmark, Hungary, Japan and USA. 13.5% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

Obalo Rioja 2017, +644856 Vintages March 30, $17.95: here is a fresh and fruity 100% tempranillo that has only been aged (with ML fermentation) for 3 months in diverse cooperage of French oak (50% new) – so it is not a Crianza. The company (founded in 2006) does make a Crianza and a Reserva, plus a Rose. And the small vineyards are about 40 – 90 years old, showing some depth through age and grace. It's a spicy cherry-berry complex of aromatics with some finish inviting pasta and rice dishes, tapas and cheeses. 14% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

Champagne Drappier Brut Nature Pinot Noir Zero Dosage NV, +179275 Vintages March 30, $59.95: Uses first-pressed juice, malolactic fermentation, no filtering, and then aged 30 months or more sur lattes. The highlight of course: there is no dosage. Aromas of citric fruit, tartness at first but mellowing out on the mid-palate with some herbal green complexity. Finish is structurally tight but brisk and refreshing. Good as a preprandial aperitif or with a first course. A Champagne to age in your cellar: it will only get better as it matures. Very affordable. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

Gerard Bertrand Naturae – Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 IGP Pays d'Oc +644393 April 13 Vintages $19.95: This one leads off the introduction of organic and vegan wines in Ontario by Gerard Bertrand. It is exceedingly fresh, with no oaking (it's the 2018 vintage). The new range is "naturae", and as little manipulation as possible is employed. The wine has been racked before malo begins, and then racked again. The acid/sweetness/tannin balance is loaded with dense black fruits (cassis, blueberry, black raspberry). It'll need some more time bottle, so try it at Christmas. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

Camigliano Brunello di Montalcino 2014 +941757 April 13 Vintages $62.95: The 2014 I tasted was 100% sangiovese grosso, aged two years in French and Slavonian oak barrels.

Fresh black fruit dominates (blueberry, black cherry), forest floor showing, but tannins still need resolution. A cellar keeper, or try if over several days after exposure to air. Best with cheese and game. 14% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

2.The BEST, BETTER, and GOOD notes for March 16 release (based on previous vintages I have tasted; I have not tasted these current Mar 16 wines) ...

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (90+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

+373985    GÉRARD BERTRAND CÔTE DES ROSES ROSÉ    AP Languedoc $18.95

+499152     ALVEAR "PEDRO XIMENEZ DE ANADA 2015  Montilla Morilles  $24.95 375 ml

+68239    ANTECH EXPRESSION BRUT CRÉMANT DE LIMOUX    Traditional method, AC, Languedoc, France Georges & Roger Antech.    2015  $19.95   

+566026    CAVE SPRING CSV RIESLING Cave Spring Vineyard, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment    2016    $29.95

+142398    WAKEFIELD JARAMAN CABERNET SAUVIGNON Coonawarra/Clare Valley, South Australia 2015 $24.95

+297317    XAVIER CÔTES DU RHÔNE    AP 2016     $17.95

+976662    FAUSTINO I GRAN RESERVA    DOCa Rioja Bodegas Faustino Martinez 2005 $35.95

 

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

+552562     HENRY OF PELHAM THREE OF HEARTS ROSE 2018 VQA  $19.95 

+243592    LADIES WHO SHOOT THEIR LUNCH WILD FERMENT SHIRAZ    Victoria    Fowles Wine 2016    $34.95

+731620    BAROSSA VALLEY ESTATE E&E BLACK PEPPER SHIRAZ    Limited release, Barossa Valley, South Australia 2014  $89.95   

 

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

+350900    ROBERT OATLEY SIGNATURE SERIES CHARDONNAY    Margaret River, Western Australia 2016    $19.95

+353086    CASAS DEL BOSQUE GRAN RESERVA CABERNET SAUVIGNON Maipo Valley 2017 $24.95

+642173    TORRES FLORALIS MOSCATEL ORO    Spain 500 mL  $16.95

Chimo! www.deantudor.com
AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
AND https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Dean Tudor, Ryerson University Journalism Professor Emeritus
Treasurer, Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://winewriterscircle.ca
Look it up and you'll remember it; screw it up and you'll never forget it.