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Monday, July 5, 2021

* MORE FOOD AND DRINK BOOKS

 
3.PEAS LOVE & CARROTS: the cookbook (Artscroll/Shaar Press, 2020,
432 pages, ISBN 978-1-4226-2578-1 $50 hardbound) is by Danielle
 
Renov. It grew out of her social media and website work at
 
www.peaslovencarrots.com. From her kitchen in Israel she transforms
 
classic Jewish cooking to new approachable recipes. Her own
 
background includes Moroccan ancestry, so she is able to draw on the
 
entire Middle Eastern experience. Her site is full of tips and advice,
 
cooking tutorials, and good food knowledge; her book is a permanent
 
extension of the better elements of that digital site. Here are 254+ recipes
 
with 180 full-colour photos. She opens with a whole pile of tips, especially
 
on how to read a recipe, and closes with the conversion tables. In
 
between there are lots of vignettes that relate to each prep. Good reading.
 
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
 
but there are tables of metric equivalents at the end.
Audience and level of use: those looking for a comprehensive modern
 
Jewish cookbook.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: roasted sweet potato, apple
 
and leek soup; slow roasted deckle; bourbon braised short ribs; Korean
 
flanken roast; shakshuka for a crowd; sfinge (Moroccan donuts); orange
 
blossom syrup.
The downside to this book: only two lamb recipes
The upside to this book: generous selection of relevant and contemporary
 
recipes.
Quality/Price Rating: 88
 
 
 
 
4.A TABLE: recipes for cooking + eating the French way (Chronicle
 
Books, 2021, 304 pages, ISBN 978-1-7972-0223-5 $43 hardbound) is by
 
Rebekah Peppler, a Paris-based food writer and stylist who contributes to
 
the New York Times, Vanity Fair, Bon Appetit, and others. She specializes
 
in simple but sophisticated French food and French living. So we've got
 
two books here: one on the food and one on the style or manners. Pre-
 
pandemic she usually hosted impromptu gatherings on a weekly basis,
 
and this goes to the preparation of this book as the blurb notes: "a go-to
 
repertoire of new French dishes that reflect a modern French table." The
 
125 recipes embrace the classic dishes, the regional dishes, and the
 
merging dishes of new cultures from previous colonies of Algeria to
 
Indochina. It is also a travel book with materials about the different
 
elements of food as found in Paris. All of her feasts at home are in three
 
parts: before (85 pages) with aperitifs and snacks, during (130 pages)
 
with mains and sides, and after (60 pages) with deserts and digestifs.
 
There's a bit about wine, but not much. The main wines of Paris appear to
 
be Muscadet and Beaujolais, both compellingly fresh and aromatic.
 
Expensive wines are usually Champagnes.` The book could have been
 
improved if it had also used more metric in the recipes, or at least had a
 
metric conversion chart.
Audience and level of use: those who enjoy a Parisian environment as a
 
backdrop to their food.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: Basque chicken, Alsatian
 
cheesecake, salade nicoise for a crowd; lamb tagine; green shakshuka;
 
bigger banh mi.
The downside to this book: I wanted more on wine
The upside to this book: good arrangement
Quality/Price Rating: 89
 
 
5.CULINARY HERBS; Grow. Preserve. Cook! (Whitecap, 2021, 278
 
pages, ISBN 978-1-770-50335-9 $34.95 softbound) is by Yvonne
 
Tremblay, a recipe developer for major food companies and food
 
marketing boards. She specializes in herbs, and has also written other
 
cookbooks on preserves. And chutneys. This current book focuses on
 
growing, harvesting, and using herbs. The primer includes a discussion on
 
fresh vs. dried herbs, the various herb mixtures (bouquet garni, herbes de
 
provence, fines herbes), and how to cook various herbs. Her glossary of
 
19 herbs includes a basic 17 and two categories of lemon and mint family
 
herbs. Recipes are arranged by course, from appetizers through soups,
 
salads, mains, sides, desserts – with an excursion through crackers,
 
biscuits and breads – ending with herbal beverages and preserves. The
 
book could have been improved if it had also used metric in the recipes,
 
or at least had a metric conversion chart.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
 
but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: gardeners and home cooks
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: veal saltimbocca alla Romana;
 
braised lamb shanks with rosemary; Thai mango salad; mint julep; herbed
 
wine; rosemary apple cider jelly; strawberry lavender jam.
The downside to this book: needs more metric 
The upside to this book: a good reference collection, very
 
comprehensive.
Quality/Price Rating: 88
 
 
6.THE EVERYTHING GUIDE TO THE INSULIN RESISTANCE DIET;
 
lose weight, reverse insulin resistance, and stop pre-diabetes. (Adams
 
Media, 2021, 270 pages, ISBN 978-1-5072-1420-6, $25.99 softbound) is
 
by Marie Feldman and Jodi Dalyai, both of whom are registered dietitians
 
and diabetes educators. Both use nutrition in their daily work to help
 
patients in the areas of weight loss and diabetes. Much has already been
 
written in the media about both diabetes and pre-diabetes, but this book
 
begins a bit earlier with "insulin resistance".  The key here is weight loss
 
and, of course, lifestyle pattern changes. These alone would go a long
 
way to end the path to diabetes. They've got 150 recipes and a 10-week
 
plan for healthy eating and increased activity. Based on their researches
 
and patients they have worked with, you can lower your risk for type 2
 
diabetes. The book could have been improved if it had also used metric in
 
the recipes, but at least it had metric conversion charts. Quality/price
 
rating: 88.
 
 
7.THE ITALIAN DELI COOKBOOK (Hardie Grant Quadrille, 2021, 256
 
pages, ISBN 978-1-78713-596-3 $50 hardbound) is by Theo Randall,
 
who had worked at River Cafe (UK) and Chez Panisse (USA) before
 
opening his own UK restaurant in 2006. He has also been a guest on
 
many UK TV shows. This is his third book on Italian cooking, and it deals
 
with the Italian pantry. Keep well-stocked shelves and you'll never go
 
hungry – you can make a meal out of anything found in the kitchen. A
 
perfect pandemic selection. Everything can be purchased ahead of time
 
from Eataly or similar delis (no matter how small), and the arrangement of
 
the book follows the shelves. First up are eggs, which are sort of an
 
anomaly since they are "fresh". Nevertheless, this section is followed by
 
cheese (good storage for dairy!), salumi, tinned fish, smoked fish, jarred
 
veggies and pulses, dried pasta, olives, herbs, rice, Italian sausages,
 
olive oil and other oils, vinegars, flour, wine, and coffee. From all of these
 
you can make dishes of pasta, pizza, and panini for a start. The only
 
reservation I have of this steady diet is a concern about the amount of salt
 
and other preservatives. It's best to look at labels. Never buy pesto: you
 
can make your own and preserve it. The same with ragu and other sauces.
 
The index has a double whammy for the older folks: tiny tiny typeface and
 
grey ink. Not every reader is a millennial. Anyway, self-confession time:
 
we've got all these ingredients at our house and we have been using the
 
Italian pantry for over 40 years. The book could have been improved if it
 
had also used more metric in the recipes, or at least had a metric
 
conversion chart. Quality/price rating: 90.
 
 
8.BOARDS, PLATTERS, PLATES: recipes for entertaining, sharing, and
 
snacking (Artisan, 2021, 160 pages, $24.95 hardbound) is by Maria Zizka,
 
co-author of  the excellent "Tartine All Day" cookbook. Here she gives us
 
30 boards/platters/plates for all manner of events, ranging from the basic
 
charcuterie board and cheese board through appetizer board, Parisienne
 
party size board, cauliflower pakora, beachside, Lebanese lunch, vegan
 
rainbow, bagna cauda party size, and even six boards for dessert. Very
 
well-presented with illustrated examples of layouts of boards and
 
identification of all the components. Fish and seafood are also added, as
 
for the beach or for the grand aioli. Well-worth a look. Quality/price rating:
 
89
 
 
9.ONE-BOWL MEALS: simple, nourishing, delicious (Artisan, 2021, 160
 
pages, $24.95 hardbound) is by Maria Zizka, co-author of  the excellent
 
"Tartine All Day" cookbook. Here she has given us 30 combinations
 
organized by base (oatmeal, chia, yogurt, grains, noodles, greens. The
 
basic formula is start with a base, build with a protein, and add a sauce,
 
and then a couple of toppings, and some crunchy garnishes. Thes one-
 
meal bowls can be protein-enhanced, or made vegan, or made gluten-
 
free. She's got the ideas all laid out for us. Yummy photos too.
 
Quality/price rating: 89
 
 
 
10.TABLES & SPREADS (Chronicle Books, 2021, 288 pages, $27.95
 
USD hardbound) is by Shelly Westerhausen Worcel with Wyatt Worcel.
 
She's a vegetarian food blogger; he's an aquaculture graduate. Together
 
they have compiled a go-to guide for snacks, small gatherings, and
 
inviting feasts. They present 21 inspired design ideas, with timelines,
 
shopping lists, and diagrams. Plus of course the recipes. The duo's got
 
some tips for choosing a theme and styling the food in a creative manner.
 
Linens, flowers, and music complete the picture. Platters can be as small
 
as a burrata bar or a creamy polenta spread, or just a selection of
 
delicious dips. Some typical themes embrace a savoury focaccia party, a
 
mezze spread, pierogi dumplings, breakfast nacho buffet, Dutch baby
 
party, and the like.  Taking their notes and ideas you can create many
 
more tables and spreads.  There's one spread for bought sliced meat and
 
sausages, but the recipes themselves are all vegetarian. Quality/Price
 
rating: 90.
 
 
 
11.NEGRONI (Ryland Peters & Small, 2021, 64 pages, $13.85
 
hardbound) is by David T. Smith and Keli Rivers. Here are more than 30
 
classic and modern recipes for Italy's iconic cocktail.  Variations make use
 
of dry and aged vermouths, along with ports and sherries and white
 
bitters. One for the cocktail friends. Quality/Price rating: 90.
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

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