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Tuesday, March 20, 2012

THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...

...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback
reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher
a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will
reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will
rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text
while keeping the focus tight. Here are some recent "re-editions"...
 

20. PRAIRIE HOME COOKING; 400 recipes that celebrate the bountiful
harvests, creative cooks, and comforting foods of the American
heartland (Harvard Common Press, 1999, 2011; distr. T. Allen, 434
pages, ISBN 978-1-55832-145-8, $16.95 US paper covers) is by Judith M.
Fertig, who has written extensively about the agriculture and local
culinary traditions of the US midwest. It was originally published in
1999 as part of the America Cooks series, and this is a straight
reprint (the bibliography has not been updated, which is a shame). It
is a worthy collection of preps, with bits of lore accompanying each
recipe, and it had been nominated for several awards. It's arranged in
two columns, covering courses from apps to desserts, with extra
chapters on breads and breakfasts. Try dilly beer grilled brats,
roasted Italian sausage with peppers and potatoes, pan-fried chicken
with gravy, and the twice-baked morel-stuffed potatoes. Preparations
have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is
no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85.
 

21. BAKING BY FLAVOUR (John Wiley & Sons, 2002, 2011, 567 pages, ISBN
978-1-118-16967-4, $24.99 US paper covers) is by Lisa Yockelson, a
cookbook author and journalist. It was originally published in 2002 and
subsequently won an IACP Award. This is the paperback reprint, complete
with a ten-year old bibliography. Nevertheless, the return of this book
to print is still an occasion. She deals with flavour principles,
emphasizing the judicious and selective use of such as coconut,
peanuts, rum, ginger, blueberry, banana, almonds, etc. – about 19 in
all. There is a chapter for each. For example, under caramel, there is
caramel chip cake, butterscotch oatmeal cookies, butterscotch pecan
bars, caramel basting sauce, and turtle squares. Volume measurements
are used, and as well, preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 86.
 
 
 
 
 
22. TEXAS HOME COOKING; 400 terrific and comforting recipes full of
big, bright flavors and loads of down-home goodness (Harvard Common
Press, 1993, 2011; distr. T. Allen, 584 pages, ISBN 978-1-55832-059-8,
$18.95 US paper covers) is by Cheryl and Bill Jamison who have written
two James Beard Book Award winners. It was originally published in
1993, and here it is back as a straight reissued reprint. Sadly, the
bibliography has not been brought up to date, and there's mostly a 20
year gap between the list and now. However, as part of the America
Cooks series, the two-columned book covers all the basics of Texas BBQ,
Tex-Mex food, chili, beans and football food. Hearty food indeed. It's
arranged by ingredient, with separate chapters on steak, poultry, game,
fish, seafood, breakfasts, desserts, and sides. Try South Texas venison
stew, sweet-sour kraut salad, popeye noodles, onion bread pudding, hot
kohl, and sausage upside-down cornbread. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table
of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85.
 

23. MAGICAL MEALS MADE EASY (Gibbs Smith, 2011, 328 pages, ISBN 978-1-
4236-2363-2, $24.99 US hard covers) is a hard bound reprint of four
"101 Ways With" cookbooks, written by Stephanie Ashcraft, Donna Kelly,
and Toni Patrick who collectively have written dozens of these kinds of
books. So this reprint covers 101 Ways With Canned Soup, 101 Ways with
Mac 'n' Cheese, and Meatballs, and Canned Biscuits. So there are 404
preps here, emphasizing the quick and convenient meals for harried
families. You'll find pork chops and potatoes, slow-cooked potatoes and
sausage, macaroni cake, Christmas stew, cheesy triangles, and Caesar
meatball kabobs. But only four recipes using Velveeta cheese.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there is no table of metric equivalents. There's an all-inclusive
index as a bonus. Quality/price index: 80.
 
 
 
24. NEW ENGLAND HOME COOKING; 350 recipes from town and country, land
and sea, hearth and home (Harvard Common Press, 1999, 2011; distr. T.
Allen, 652 pages, ISBN 978-1-55832-757-3, $18.95 US paper covers) is by
Brooke Dojny, a Beard Award-winning food writer who lives in Maine.
She's authored over a dozen cookbooks, many dealing with New England.
It was originally published in 1999 as The New England Cookbook, and
here it is back as a straight reissued reprint. Sadly, the bibliography
has not been brought up to date, and there's mostly a 10 year gap
between the list and now. However, as part of the America Cooks series,
it does celebrate the regional cooking of Down East and the rest of New
England. The range (and the arrangement) is from soups to desserts,
with chapters on breads and preserves. True Yankee classics include
North End clams casino, Wellfleet oysters on the half-shell, Maine-
style molasses baked yellow-eyes, New England Cobb salad, Shaker
whipped winter squash with Cape Cod cranberries, and Beach House
blueberry cobbler. There are also lots of fish and game preps, as well
as cider and cheese. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 85.
 

25. THE APPLE A DAY COOKBOOK (Nimbus Publishing, 1993, 2011, 219 pages,
ISBN 978-1-55109-858-6, $16.95 CAD soft covers) is by Janet Reeves, a
cookbook author. It was originally published in 1993. There's no
evidence of what's new, but the layout has changed with a re-setting of
the type. It's been 18 years since the book was published, but apples
are a pretty stable commodity, and there was no bibliography or
statistical table to update. Recipes are timeless, sourced from all
over the world, with many from PEI, Reeves' home (she says that there
are 20 varieties of apples in PEI). The wide range includes all
courses. Mains include pork dishes (a natural affinity for apples),
plus some apple preps with chicken, curried steak, and an apple-scallop
bake. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois
measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents, possibly
left from the 1993 edition. With one or two recipes on a page, there
should be close to 365 preps here. The index is arranged by food
category (e.g., muffins) that is bolded. Quality/price rating: 89.
 
 
 
26. KNEADLESSLY SIMPLE; fabulous, fuss-free, no-knead breads (John
Wiley
& Sons, 2009, 2011, 210 pages, ISBN 978-1-118-16943-8, $19.99 US paper
covers) is by Nancy Baggett, a food writer known principally for her
dessert cookbooks (one was a Beard winner). It was originally published
in 2009, and this is a straight reprint at a $5 reduction. Here she
riffs off of Jim Lahey's successful no-knead slow-rise French bread
recipe as captured by Mark Bittman (October, 2006, New York Times) by
extending the concept to all kinds of yeast breads. Lahey's was not the
first, but it seemed to be the most popular as evidenced by its spread
through the Internet. Baggett has made changes, such as using ice water
and refrigeration to slow down the biga. The 75 recipes here are a boon
to harried cooks and bakers everywhere. The secret to good bread
making, whether you knead or not, is simply a long, slow rise. You'll
only need one bowl, one spoon, some simple steps to follow, and minimal
cleanup. What you will get is artisanal bread that is thick, crusty,
with moderately sized holes in the crumb. Her details and instructions
are precise, with a range of rising times to suit your own schedule.
And of course, she has a troubleshooting section. It is worth the
effort to read about how to convert your favourite old bread recipe
into the newer mode, for then you can convert most anything. There is a
32 page section on "easiest ever yeast breads", followed by specific
chapters on American favourites, Old World classics, multi-grain and
gluten-free breads, and sweet breads. She believes that the best yeast
for the slow rise is bread machine yeast because it does not need to be
re-hydrated; don't use cake or compressed yeast. The basic technique
takes nine steps, and is explained on pages 1 to 3. Each prep here
usually has variations: cheddar bread; farmhouse potato bread with dill
and olives; English muffin loaves; crusty yeasted cornbread; challah.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there is no table of metric equivalents. The emphasis in the book
is on "knowing the rules before breaking them", which I wholeheartedly
agree with, but may rub some people the wrong way in these permissive
times. Quality/Price Rating: 89.
 

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