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Sunday, March 5, 2017

* THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...

 
...all reflect a boom in cookbook publishing. A paperback reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text while keeping the focus tight. Some magazines will reissue popular or classic recipes in an "easy" format. Here are some recent "re-editions"...
 
 
 
20.THE NAKED COOKBOOK (Ten Speed Press, 2015, 128 pages, ISBN 978-1-60774-994-3, $24.99 USD hard/softbound) is by Tess Ward. It was originally published in the UK by Quadrille, and this is the North American printing. Ward is a London-based food blogger who has worked at Ricer Cottage and The Ritz. The preps are for you to eat: raw, pure, stripped, bare, nude, clean and thus detox. Even down to the physical book itself (just boards for covers, no spine at all (just stitching) – to emphasize how serious it all is. Clean eating will give you more energy. Help you to lose weight, and ultimately purify (detox) your body. It is a good lifestyle with uncomplicated and simple recipes. Her "naked" yogurts include such as basil yogurt dressing, cumin yogurt dressing, and cilantro yogurt dressing. He naked dips include goat milk ricotta, wasabi crème fraiche, and a cucumber-radish-goat cheese raita. Along with sauces, they add a huge variety of flavours to basic everyday food such as molasses and ginger pork balls with bok choy, or avocado boats with peas-feta-mint. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Lots of pantry advice. Small typeface is used for the index. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
 
21.THE SOUTH OF FRANCE COOKBOOK (Weldon Owen, 2015, 256 pages, ISBN 978-1-68188-053-2, $35 USD hardbound) is by Nina Parker, a London-based chef and caterer. It was originally published by Weidenfeld & Nicolson in the UK in 2014; this is the North American printing. It is arranged by meal, from breakfast through lunch, teatime, canapes, dinner and dessert. The subtitle confines it by saying "recipes and stories from St. Tropez", although the dishes are evocative of the region (eg, "le sticky bun", apricot and almond jam, or provencal tomatoes). The stories/memoirs are hers of course. But while the picture of the ruby red roasted duck La Verdoyante (from the nearby restaurant in Gassin) is phenomenal, there are also many pix of just her in various settings.
Preparations have their ingredients listed mostly in avoirdupois measurements with some metric, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85.
 
22.PICNIC IN PROVENCE (Back Bay Books – Little, Brown and Co., 2015, 2016, 368 pages, $15.99 USD soft covers) is by Elizabeth Bard, a US journalist based in Provence. She had previously written "Lunch in Paris", and continues the French theme of memoirs + recipes with this volume about Provence. This is a memoir about love and marriage and family, moving from Paris to Provence and setting up an artisanal ice cream shop. Local recipes are included (and indexed), such as broiled whole sea bass with lemon and herbs, or salade composee au foie de volaille. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
 
 
23.VARIETAL WINES (Hardie Grant, 2015, 308 pages, ISBN 978-1-74270860-7, $44.95 CAD hardbound) is by Oz wine critic James Halliday who has been at it for 45 years. He has written or contributed to more than 70 books on wine. This book was originally published in 2004, profiling 84 varieties of grapevines grown in Australia. Since that time, more have been added to the viticulture in Oz, and the book's coverage has grown to 130 varietal wines. Every varietal in Oz still remains set in an international context here. These are the classic (cabernet sauvignon, shiraz, chardonnay, riesling), second tier, and alternative varieties currently grown in Australia. He's got histories for all, along with diversity of regional styles, the best producers, and production stats from Oz and the ROW. Details of the lesser 95 red and white varieties are also given, although a case could be made for also separating these "lesser"  into two tiers by at least name recognition. Aucerot? Biancone? In the same listing as Pedro Ximenez? As Silvaner? Or Prosecco? The public's fancy seems to dominate, as Prosecco will surely ascend in the rankings, which is how Pinot Grigio (a second tier white if there ever was one) got to be a "classic" of the same ranking as chardonnay or sauvignon blanc. And whatever happened to Malbec? There is not a mention of it in his book, yet it has been grown in Australia for decades. Just check out www.vinodiversity.com/malbec.html#inoz
Quality/price rating: 84.
 
 
 
24.VEGETABLES; the essential reference (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2016, 516 pages, ISBN 978-0-544-71528-8, $35 USD hardbound) comes from the editors of Eating Well magazine. I was once a charter subscriber while the magazine was part of the Canadian cooking landscape situated in Vermont. It is now owned by Meredith Corporation, home of Better Homes and Gardens, Family Circle, Martha Stewart Living, and many others dealing with home life. Most of the preps here have appeared in Eating Well, and contributors are noted. You could try Bruce Aidells' Bavarian leek and cabbage soup or pork & shrimp stuffed eggplant, Lidia Bastianich's braised greens and cannellini bean panini, or Mario Batali's penne alla primavera. Alice Waters contributes a sauteed Brussels sprouts with bacon and onions, while Deborah Madison encourages us with roasted sweet potato wedges. Even Toronto's own Naomi Duguid is here (fish sauce with chiles). Even an impressive book such as this one required some log rolling. There are 101 veggies, arranged A – Z with 200 recipes (some use meat too, so the book is not all vegetarian). There are basic descriptions, cooking technique styles, nutritional data, colour photos and recipes for each. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. There are special interest indexes for gluten-free, heart-healthy, and vegan. There is even a short section on how to read an Eating Well recipe! Quality/price rating: 90.
 
 
25.BROOKS HEADLEY'S FANCY DESSERTS (W.W.Norton, 2014, 2016, 273 pages, ISBN 978-0-393-35238-2, $24.95 USD paperbound) is by Brooks Headley, former executive chef at Del Posto now chef-owner of Superiority Burger. He has also written food articles for the press. The preps here were created while he was running pastry at Del Posto's. This is the paperbound reprint of a 2014 hardbound book; he has left Del Posto in the meanwhile. Still, he won a Beard while at Del Posto. His approach: fruit is king, veggies can be used in desserts, acidity is the key, and simplicity is the goal. So he has 50 pages on such as cucumber creamsicle, candied cucumber, avocados and strawbs, carrot sauce, and: fried Roman artichokes with ricotta gelato, honey and matzo chocolate. He's got tips, photos of techniques, stories about other pastry chefs in NYC, and a variety of eclecticisms. As Bill Buford said, Headley is "brave, extreme and wacky. It is the best anti-cookbook cookbook I have ever read."  Throughout, there is a trail of salt, vinegar and breadcrumbs. In true baker style the ingredients are scaled: preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements. Quality/price rating: 89.
 
 
26.THE HAPPY COOKBOOK (St. Martin's Griffen, 2015, 2016, 248 pages, ISBN 978-1-250-09227-4, $24.99 USD paperbound) is by Lola Berry, an Australian nutritionist who devised a 20/20 Diet based on her years of experience helping people to shed excess pounds. Her book was originally published in Australia last year by Pan Macmillan, and this is its US debut. The subtitle says it all: 130 wholefood recipes for health, wellness, and a little extra sparkle. Some preps are sugar-free, others are gluten-free, and there are some paleo delights as well. It is all arranged by form, with chapters on smoothies, loaves, salads, veggies, brekkies, surf and turf, and ending with desserts and sweets. It concludes with a series of festive menus, and the dishes listed have page references. Her biggest contribution is the happy thoughts that one needs for a stress-free existence. The 20/20 diet, not really given here, is a way to lose 20 kilos (44 pounds) over 20 weeks. I think all the preps here are part of that diet, but there is no rigour involved. Typical are spiced roasted sweet potato with pecans and creamy tahini dressing, quirky carrot salad, poached chicken salad with maple-roasted pumpkin, feta and pepitas, and broccoli and chickpea patties with tahini and lime dressing. But too many pix of Lola deter from an interesting book. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85.
 
 
27.POSH – EGGS (Quadrille, 2016, 176 pages, ISBN 978-1-84949-788-6, $19.95 USD hardbound) is one of a publishers cookbook series. Here it celebrates upscale uses for eggs, ranging from advocaat to zabaglione. The publisher says that the egg is the original superfood, and they are right. Here are over 70 recipes: kedgeree at breakfast, green shakshuka at lunch, crab souffle at dinner (with iles flottantes for dessert). Preps are mainly quick, come with a photo, have a somewhat British/Australian twist, and easy to read instructions. Lucy O'Reilly did the writing and the food styling. It's arranged by mealtime. Try bacon salad with beetroot and quail eggs, or sole maltaise. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements with some metric, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85.
 
 
28.POSH – TOAST (Quadrille, 2015, 176 pages, ISBN 978-1-84949-700-8, $19.95 USD hardbound) is one of a publishers cookbook series. Here it celebrates upscale uses for toast, which it claims is the ultimate fast food. Platforms will vary, but toasts can be made from sourdough, corn tortilla, spelt, seeded, rye, and then made into open faced sandwiches, crostini, even panini. Over 70 recipes are arranged by mealtime, from breakfast through snacks to dinner. Preps are mainly quick, come with a photo, have a somewhat British/Australian twist, and easy to read instructions. Emily Kydd did most of the the recipe writing and the food styling. The range is from anchovy spread to white bean puree. You may want to try mozzarella and kale pesto, spiced potted crab, or chipotle prawns and corn avocado crème tostada. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements with some metric, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85.
 
 
 
29.THE ILLUSTRATED KITCHEN BIBLE (DK Books, 2008, 2016, 544 pages, ISBN 978-
1-4654-5155-2, $24.96 USD paperbound) is by a book packager, with Victoria Blashford-Snell as editor-in-chief. She runs her own catering firm, teaches, acts as a presenter on UK TV, and has written eight popular cookbooks. Here she assembles 1000 preps plus some 3,000 colour instructional photos for techniques. She has menu planners, shopping lists, easy step developments, an idea of what can be made ahead, and ideas for both leftovers and holdovers. All courses, all foods, and all seasons are covered here. Each prep has an indication of serving numbers, prep times, and equipment needed, and storage time lengths. Each of the three categories (starters, mains and sides, desserts) has a special table of contents that lists the title of the recipe, a short one or two line description, a small picture, prep times, and storage times, and of course the page reference. Sub-categories for the three
larger groups include a breakdown by topic. For example, for starters, there are topics like seafood starters, snacks on toast, weekend brunch, healthy snacks, party bites, hearty soups, etc.  Some interesting or unusual recipes include herbed fish goujons, anchovy and olive bruschetta, sesame shrimp toast, sausages with lima beans,  and ginger cream sauce. Preparations have their ingredients listed in mostly avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/Price Rating: 88.
 
 
 
30.CANADIAN LIVING MAKE IT AHEAD! (Juniper Publishing, 2016, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-988002-27-9, $19.95 CAD paperbound) continues the mega-output from this magazine: I think that this is the 24th book in the series. There are 100 plus recipes for batch cooking, freezing, and other storage. Their Tested-Till-Perfect approach ensures a consistency for a variety of situations, such as weeknights or emergency entertaining. This is stuff you could always have on hand. But of course it also depends on the right storage containers. There are good tips her to prevent freezer burns. It's arranged by course, from apps through pastas, burgers, mains, sides, condiments, and desserts. Each prep has nutritional data and some tips, along with timings. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois for volumes and metric for weight measurements, but there is no table of  equivalents. Try cheeseburger spring rolls or mini Cubanos. Quality/price rating: 85.
 
 
 
31.POSTCARDS FROM GREECE (Hardie Grant Books, 2014, 2016, 256 pages, ISBN 978-1-78488-061-3, $24.99 USD hardbound) is by food and drink writer Rebecca Seal, who has also written "Istanbul: recipes from the heart of Turkey". Her Greek tome was originally published in 2014 as "Islands of Greece" , and for some reason was re-titled on its reissue. So all of the preps here come from places such as Milos, Santorini, Rhodes, Crete, and other islands. These are regional specialties, presented in order of breads, mezedes, seafood, meat, veggies, and desserts. It is also part travel too with some memoir-type material and photos from her life partner. I was disappointed that Greek wines were not covered since they are approaching now on the mainstage...Try sweet Ester bread, olive oil chocolate mousse, volcanic lamb with egg and lemon sauce, and salt cod fritters. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both avoirdupois and metric measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.
 
 
32.GRAIN BOWLS (Hardie Grant Books, 2016, 192 pages,  ISBN 978-1-78488-048-4, $19.99 USD paperbound) is by Anna Shillinglaw Hampton. It was originally published in hard covers; this is the paper cover reprint. She says that the only tools you will need for this book are: bowl, wooden spoon, knife, frying pan, and saucepan. She introduces "grain bowls", which are (as in the subtitle) mainly bulgur wheat, quinoa, barley, rice,  and spelt. And then she tells how make the perfect grain bowl by layering. Other grains employed include the now-popular  cracked freekeh, buckwheat groats, and kamut. It is a "build-a-bowl", similar to other books which also deal with salads and soups in this build fashion. 80 recipes cover salad grain bowls, vegetarian grain bowls, meaty grain bowls, and diverse dressings and toppings. Well-worth a look for its variety.  Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and  avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of  equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.
 
 
33.SOUPS (Hardie Grant Books, 2015, 2016, 192 pages, ISBN 978-1-78488-038-5, $19.99 USD paperbound) is by Anna Helm Baxter. It was originally published in hardbound; this is the paperbound reprint. It's a companion book to Grain Bowls (above). These are quick and easy soups for every season and every occasion. The opening chapters deal with  soup design and construction, so then it all becomes a technique. There are sections on quick toppings and quick garnishes. The arrangement starts with chilled, moves on to smooth, to stock-based, and then to hearty. Over 80 recipes. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of  equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.
 
 
34.BEST DIPS, APPS, & SIDES (The Countryman Press, 2015, 2016, 128 pages, ISBN 978-1-581-57421-0, $14.95 USD paperbound) is by Monica Sweeney, a food writer/editor who had previously written "Best Dips & Apps Ever" and "Best Side Dishes Ever" for Hollan Publishing in 2015. This paperback reissue is a selection of preps from those two books, combined for paperbound packaging. There are over 50 recipes here, featuring a spinach/bacon dip, savoury pinwheels, and beef lettuce wraps. It is arranged by function: dips and breads, hearty eats, salads and veggies, and more substantial (but still small plate-sized) pasta-potatoes-casseroles. Each is illustrated and the typeface is great for seniors. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating:  85.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

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