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Friday, May 18, 2012

Other Interesting Cookbooks and Drinkbooks

HOT & CHEESY (John Wiley & Sons, 2012, 404 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-
61535-5, $22.99 US paper covers) is by Clifford A. Wright, an award-
winning author of twelve other cookbooks. He's a multiple Beard winner.
Here he has collected 250 international and global preps covering a
full range of fritters, pastries, casseroles, pastas, sandwiches,
pizzas, breads – just about all foods one can top, stuff or sprinkle
with cheese. In most cases, he tries to match the most appropriate
cheese with the requirement, such as Bell pepper or poblano chili
strips in cheese (use either a four-cheese blend from the book or fresh
cheeses). There's the usual primer on how to choose and store cheeses,
and how to cook with them. Obviously, the cheese must be melt able or
grated first, and the flavours appropriate. Arrangement is by course or
product, beginning with soups and sauces and progressing through
crepes, pies, tarts, Italian and Mexican dishes, eggs, rice, veggies,
meat and seafood, concluding with sweets. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table
of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: home cooks, cheese lovers.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: cheese and potato cigars;
calzones; brioche pork and cheese sandwich; perciatelli with three
cheeses; stuffed veal chops; baked lamb with cheese; haddock and
cheddar casserole; crab au gratin; cheese kolache.
The downside to this book: it would have been nice to have some non-
gluten alternatives.
The upside to this book: there is no logrolling on the cover, which is
good…Wright can sell himself.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.
 

4. THE PHILOSOPHY OF FOOD (University of California Press, 2012, 312
pages, ISBN 978-0-520-26934-7, $27.95 US soft covers) has been edited
by David M. Kaplan, a philosophy professor at the University of North
Texas. It is a diverse collection of essays ruminating on themes about
thinking responsibly about what and how we consume food. The papers
reflect the editor's introduction in which he proposes how "food" fits
into s viable study pattern: metaphysics of food, epistemology,
aesthetics, ethics, technology, and politics. The first two chapters
(of 16) examine the social role of eating. The next three talk about
aesthetics, the taste of food, and food as art. The following three
comment on ethics, morality and politics of food. After this come three
chapters on vegetarianism and ethics of animals used in food
production. There are also sections on aquaculture, agriculture and
food technologies. There are plenty of end notes and bibliographies,
the list of contributors and their stations, and – ta da – an index to
the whole collection. This feature rarely happens. Along the way the
book covers (spread over a few essays) slow food, sustainability, food
safety, table manners, trade, veganism, supermarkets, and other topics
(check the index). What can I say? "Something to chew on"? "Food for
thought"? Quality/Price Rating: 91.
 
 
 
5. TALES FROM AN OENOPHILE; fables, adventures & misconceptions
(Friesen Press, 2011, 156 pages, ISBN 978-1-77067-313-7 $16.95 soft
covers, also available as an ebook for $7.99, both versions at
http://www.frugal-wine.com/bookstore/booktfao.htm) is by Richard Best,
also known as The Frugal Oenophile specializing in modestly-priced
wines. He's a good colleague of mine in the Wine Writers' Circle of
Canada (I'm also mentioned in the Acknowledgments) – those are my
conflicts of interest here. Borrowing a leaf from George Bernard Shaw,
Best has produced a didactic work about wine by using a novel approach:
the novel. There is not really much of a plot, but that's the book's
only weakness. It might have helped to move the story along is there
was more tension, such as a wine cellar collapsing on the principals,
or a vicious winemaker's dog attacking somebody, or a corked wine
killing off half the townfolks. Possibly even a fight at the cash
register over the last bottles of a precious wine. But then, that's
just me. I doubt that they'll make a movie or Broadway musical out of
it, but it might make a good "reality" television show. Essentially, it
is the story of a knowledgeable wine writer and his neighbours (a young
couple) exploring the world of wine through dialogue. Best covers the
basic wine styles, visiting wineries, training a nose and palate for
tasting wines, doing a wine show, talking to a winemaker, exploring a
seasoned wine cellar, and preparing for a party by matching wines with
the foods. Each chapter ends with some wine notes or technical data.
There's an appendix with such items as how to prepare wine aroma
samples on your own and how to build a wine knowledge library with
reference books and newsletters (but nothing from the Internet). Well-
worth a look and read.
Audience and level of use: beginning wine lovers
Some interesting or unusual facts: Basically comprehensive shopping
lists, wine encyclopedias attempt to include every wine imaginable,
along with some coverage of region and wineries.
The downside to this book: more tension is needed for this "show me"
approach.
The upside to this book: a nice novel approach by a best writer.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.
 
 
 
6. NOTES FROM A MAINE KITCHEN; seasonally inspired recipes (Down East
Books, 201; distr. by Nimbus, 196 pages, ISBN 978-0-89272-917-3, $27.95
US hard covers) is by Kathy Gunst who has been nominated for several
IACP and Beard Awards. She's written 14 cookbooks and has contributed
to a variety of the top food magazines in the US. Here, she has essays
for each month of the year, exploring and explaining the Maine food
landscape for that time period. Each is followed by several preps
incorporating seasonal ingredients or themes, about a half-dozen or so
for each month. She covers farmers' markets, sugar shacks, lobster
trapping, ramp hunting, parsnip harvests, and more. In January, it is
smelts, August is for lobsters, September is preserving, and October is
mushroom hunting. There is a nifty section on 18 menus, with pag
references to the recipes. Preparations have their ingredients listed
in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric
equivalents.
Audience and level of use: Maine or New England food lovers
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: maple cheesecake with maple-
ginger crust; ramp puree and ramp butter; sauteed sea scallops with
ramp puree; grilled harpooned swordfish with olive-lemon scallion
topping; herb and feta corn fritters; roasted wild-mushroom soup.
The downside to this book: the Resources section is all New England,
but then this is a regional cookbook.
The upside to this book: the Menus.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.
 

7. WAFFLES (Weldon Owen, 2011; distr. Simon & Schuster, 96 pages, ISBN
978-1-61628-205-3, $19.5 US hard covers) is by Tara Duggan, a Beard
Award winning food journalist and cookbook author. Here she covers over
40 sweet and savoury preps. Her emphasis is on versatility of the
waffle, which is a good thing since you must invest in some kind of
single purpose machine (which she covers, including an egg waffler).
It's an open and shut book with the usual batters and spreads, arranged
by course (breakfasts, brunches, lunch, diner, desserts). It'll make a
good gift book. No gluten-free recipes. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but
there is no table of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: beginners, home cooks.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: fresh corn, goat cheese, and
roasted pepper waffles; sourdough waffle BLTs; chicken and waffles with
pan gravy; three-cheese waffle sticks; potato waffles with applesauce.
The downside to this book: no gluten-free recipes
The upside to this book: really sharp photography.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.
 
 
 
8. 200 SALADS (Gibbs Smith, 2012; distr. Raincoast, 208 pages, ISBN
978-1-4536-2468-4, $12.99 US spiral bound) is by Melissa Barlow and
Stephanie Ashcraft. It's a basic book with no illustrations but with a
detailed index and useful spiral binding. There are both sweet (fruit,
desserts) and savoury (leaves, pasta, BBQ, main courses) with a chapter
on dressings. There are service notes, such as serving 6 or more.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there is a table of metric equivalents on the inside back cover.
Audience and level of use: beginner.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: marinated beef salad; fruit
and nut chicken salad; sunshine salad; cashew bow-tie pasta; summer
zucchini salad.
The downside to this book: nothing, really – there are enough ideas
here for a couple of years of no repeats.
The upside to this book: spiral-binding makes it a snap to search
around or look at recipes.
Quality/Price Rating: 85.
 

9. IN PURSUIT OF GARLIC; an intimate look at the divinely odorous bulb
(Greystone Books, 2012, 202 pages, ISBN 978-1-55365-601-2, $19.95 CAN
paper covers) is by Liz Primeau, a well-established gardening writer
and the founding editor of Canadian Gardening magazine. It is a good
handbook, well-framed with judiciously chosen facts and anecdotes and a
smattering of recipes (there's also a separate recipe index). Log
rolling comes from Mark Cullen and John Bishop. She explores garlic
through history, art, medicine, science, and food. There is even some
contemporary material on the current status of Chinese-imported garlic.
There's a chapter on garlic festivals, and one on a garlic primer (at
the back). Sources are also indicated. And while there is a list of
recommended reading, she also cites (but does not source) Les Blank's
documentary film "Garlic is As Good as Ten Mothers" which currently
only exists as an out-of-print VHS tape – I wish she told me where to
find it, for I have not seen it since its release around 1980.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: garlic lovers
Some interesting or unusual facts: Roman soldiers were issued several
cloves of garlic daily and told to chew on them for resistance to
disease.
The downside to this book: I would have liked more material, a longer
book,
The upside to this book:  separate recipe index.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.
 

10. FARMSTAND FAVORITES: GARLIC; over 75 farm fresh recipes
(Hatherleigh Press, 2012; distr. Random House of Canada, 99 pages, ISBN
978-1-57826-405-6, $9.50 US soft covers) comes from a series created to
buying local and fresh. So far the series has dealt with apples,
pumpkin, and berries (among other titles). It is a basic collection of
preps, covering all courses including breakfast. Some of the recipes
come from garlic festivals or organic suppliers: these are all sourced.
It's an ideal accompaniment to Primeau's book (above) since it only has
three pages dealing with garlic primer material. There's enough to get
you started, even a recipe for pickled garlic – to handle any surplus
that you might have. Unfortunately, there is no index, the book must be
thumbed through. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: beginners
Some interesting or unusual recipes: pesto minestrone; lemon bulgur and
chickpea pilaf; turkey apple gyros; Moroccan lentil salad; artichoke
gondolas.
The downside to this book: no index.
The upside to this book: pickled garlic and roasted garlic recipes to
handle any surplus you might have.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.
 

April 20/12: Monthly APVSA tasting, report

 
The Date and Time: Friday, April 20, 2012 11AM to 5 PM
The Event: the monthly APVSA tasting (Association pour la promotion des
vins et spiritueux en Amerique du Nord).
The Venue: Delta Chelsea Inn
The Target Audience: wine agents.
The Availability/Catalogue: no wines are currently available in
Ontario. The group is here to get some agents to agree to rep the
principal. Some of the wines are available in Quebec and Alberta.
Most of the wines were French, and there is sales staff available to
comment on the prices and production. This road show also visits such
places as New York, Los Angeles, Seattle, Las Vegas, Calgary,
Vancouver, Miami, Washington DC, and Montreal. Occasionally, the show
will have wines from Italy, Uruguay, Spain and Australia. Sometimes
spirits and VDN are also available.
The Wines: The problem I had with the wines, and one that must be
acknowledged, is that (by and large) they were about the same as wines
that we already have here in Ontario. There really did not seem to be
any price advantages, either. But these 40 or so wines could be made
available through Vintages or Consignment. In the past, quite a few
have been picked up for sale in Ontario; these were mostly the good
value or unique wines. Here were my faves from today, regardless of FOB
cost which must be requested due to competitive pricing. I did not try
every wine.
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Champagne Demilly de Baere Cuvée carte d'or Brut
-Château Viranel -Saint-Chinian 2011 Tradition rosé 3.70 E
-Château l'Espigne AOP Muscat de Rivesalles 2011
-La Maurine Rouge Saint-Chinian Secrets de Paul 2009 5 E
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-Château Viranel Saint-Chinian 2009 Tradition rouge 4 E
-Château l'Espigne AOP Fitou Pla de Rouffia 2009
-Château Barrail des Graves Saint Emilion 2004 Cuvée Georges & Gilles
-Château Barrail des Graves Saint-Emilion 2005 Cuvée Charlie
-Chateau Fontbaude Castillon Cotes de Bordeaux 2009 Vieilles Vignes
-La Maurine Rouge Saint-Chinian Galopins 2009 3.4 E
*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-La Maurine Rouge Saint-Chinian Rouge 2010 2.80 E
-La Maurine Rouge Saint-Chinian Rosé 2011 3 E
-Château Viranel Coteaux du Languedoc 2011 Tradition blanc 3.70 E
-Château l'Espigne AOP Fitou Demoiselle Gaubert 2010
-Château Barrail des Graves Saint-Emilion 2006
-Chateau Fontbaude Castillon Cotes de Bordeaux 2009
The Food: Some really great, piping hot pizza.
The Contact Person: Pascal p.fernand@apvsa.ca
The Marketing Effectiveness/Execution of the Event (numerical grade):
84.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

Wednesday, May 16, 2012

April 27/12: Paxton Vineyards, McLaren Vale, tasting report

 The Date and Time: Friday April 27, 2012 4:30 PM to 7 PM
The Event: Tasting of new Paxton Vineyards wines from McLaren Vale. The
Venue: Fine Wine Reserve
The Target Audience: media, sommeliers, clients
The Availability/Catalogue: through The Living Vine, Ontario's unique
source for totally organic, biodynamic and sustainable wines – that's
all they sell.
The Quote/Background: David Paxton came for the showing. His son
Michael is the winemaker. These are biodynamic wines or are "in
conversion". The company makes 11 different wines, including pinot gris
and Tempranillo (not shown today).
The Wines:
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Paxton MV Shiraz 2010 McLaren Vale, $19.95
-Paxton Jones Block Shiraz 2009 McLaren Vale, $34.95
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-Paxton Cabernet/Shiraz "The Guesser" 2010 McLaren Vale, $16.95
-Paxton AAA Shiraz Grenache 2010 McLaren Vale, $21.95
-Paxton Quandong Farm Shiraz 2010 McLaren Vale, $29.95
*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Paxton Thomas Block Chardonnay 2010 McLaren Vale, $24.95
The Food: gourmet upscale cheeses (Chevre Noir, Epoises, Mimolette)
plus pates and breads.
The Downside: I had already exposed myself to some 140 wines at the
weekly LCBO media tasting.
The Upside: it was Friday night.
The Contact Person: mark@thelivingvine.ca
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade):
88.

Sunday, May 13, 2012

Some new wines tasted this month...

SOME NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH --
 
1. Les Jamelles Merlot 2010 Vin de Pays d'Oc, +245324 LCBO, $12.95:
making a new appearance on the General List after years of consignment,
this Merlot exhibits typicity of the region, near Nimes. 10 – 1 year-
old vines and acidic soil lend it some crispness pushing it over to the
food wine category. 13.5% ABV, cooked black fruit, with a longer finish
than anticipated. Twist top for easier service.
 
2. Sauvion Carte D'Or Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sue Lie 2010 Loire,
+143016 LCBO, $12.95: from the melon de Bourgogne grape, a fairly high
acid food wine, great with shellfish (especially at this price). Aged
on lees for added complexity, 4 to 8 months. 12% BV. A really heavy
bottle and attractive label makes the wine seem more posh than the
price.
 
3. Calvet Reserve Merlot-Cabernet 2010 Bordeaux, +44032 LCBO, $14.45
(but only $10.98 or so in Alberta): at 14% ABV the wine qualifies as
Bordeaux Superiore. Here the cuvee is 60% merlot and 40% cab sauvignon.
Fruity in the North American appeal style, both red and black fruit
alternate in aromas. Needs time to open up, do a double decant.
 
4. Chateau des Charmes Pinot Noir Old Vines 2007 VQA NOTL, +256834,
$18.95 Vintages: quite a powerful wine, a Cuvee winner, lots of forest
floor (mushrooms, earth) to complement the red fruit. 13% ABV.
 
5. Chateau des Charmes Sauvignon Blanc 2010 St. David's Bench VQA,
+391300 $14.95 LCBO: good balanced fruit, citric tones, zest, MVC
typicity. Fresh, 13% ABV.
 
 

Wednesday, May 9, 2012

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR MAY 12, 2012


WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR MAY 12, 2012
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at
http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news
items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at
www.deantudor.com since 1994. My tastings are based on MVC (Modal
Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices
are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does
NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product
consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.
 
BUT FIRST -- THIS MUM'S DAY SPECIAL --
 
Le Cidre St-Nicolas Rose, +275362, $19.95:  This fine apple cider from Quebec runs at 7% ABV. It is a gold medal winner. The apples are crushed cold pressed with raspberries and strawberries for added complexity and, of course, colour. A terrific social drink or with dessert, even brunch. A Mum's Day Treat.
 
TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Angels Gate Mountainview Chardonnay 2010 VQA Beamsville Bench: rich
ripe fruit flavours, good balance with wood tones and longer length for
food. +116384, $18.95, QPR: 89.
2. Catena Alamos Torrontes 2011 Salta: fresh aromas and lively finish,
more a food wine (first course) than a social wine. 13.5% ABV, twist
top. +81539, $13.95, QPR: 89.
3. Wither Hills Wairau Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2011 Marlborough: typical
Kiwi Savvy in MVC style but with a lighter finish. 13.5% ABV, twist
top. +919514, $17.95, QPR: 89.
4. Helfrich Gewurztraminer 2010 Alsace: great aromatics, good on
palate, slightly bitterish finish. 12.5% ABV, twist top. +169748,
$18.95, QPR: 89.
5. Domaine Chenevieres Chablis 2010 La Chapelle Vaupeteigne: more
fruity than minerally, should appeal to a wider range of consumers.
Elegant, good body and finish. Classy labels too. +277913, $19.95, QPR:
89.
6. Monmousseau Vouvray 2010: peachy, peachy, peachy, off dry, some
lanolin. 12% ABV, twist top. +271940, $14.95, QPR: 89.
7. Sols & Sens Laudon Cotes du Rhones-Villages Blanc 2010: refreshing,
the viognier dominates (hot and jammy), appetizer or social wine. 13.5%
ABV. +272435, $14.95, QPR: 90.
8. Geil Bechtheimer Rosengarten Riesling Kabinett 2011 Prad.: sunshine
in a bottle with finishing acid, 10% ABV. Social or first course wine.
+994764, $14.95, QPR: 89.
 
TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Graffigna Grand Reserve Malbec 2008 Pedernal Valley Argentina:
excellent character, jammy, plumy, black fruit, MVC all the way. 14.5%
ABV. +162149, $16.95, PR: 89.
2. Heartland Stickleback Red 2009 South Australia: good drinking blend
of four varieties, twist top, 14.5% ABV.
3. San Fabiano Calcinaia Chianti Classico 2008: needs a bit of time,
but the set is there. Good MVC, just under the Mendoza line. +23408,
$19.95, QPR: 89.
4. Arduini Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2009: "Ripasso of
the Month". +267898, $18.95, QPR: 89.
5. Chapillon Cuvee Remy 2007 Priorat: deep and delicious flavours and
tones of grenache, carignan, and cabernet sauvignon. 15.4% ABV leads to
a hot finish. +271114, $18.95, QPR: 89.
6. Juan Gil White Label De Cepas Viejas Monastrell 2010 Jumilla: red
fruit, delicious vanilla and coconut (US oak), affordable, 14.5% ABV.
Buy it all!! +13656, $12.95, QPR: 92.
7. Muriel Reserva 2005 Rioja: juicy but a reserved finish of some
depth. 13% ABV, great price. +276030, $15.95, QPR: 90.
 
VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.
 
1. Casa Marin Laurel Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2009 San Antonio Valley
Chile, +274050, $24.95 retail.
2. Domaine Herve Azo Beauroy Chablis 1er Cru 2010, +276451, $27.95
retail.
3. Roger & Didier Raimbault Sancerre 2010, +82255, $22.95.
4. Clos de Gat Chardonnay 2009 Judean Hills Israel, +280321, $47.95.
5. Ravenswood Old Vine Zinfandel 2009 Sonoma County, +673798, $23.95.
6. Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Sonoma County, +226944,
$21.95.
7. Cuvelier Los Andes Grand Vin 2006 Mendoza, +149831, $39.95.
8. Plaisir de Siaurac 2009 Lalande de Pomerol, +245886, $21.95.
9. Campo di Sasso Insoglio del Cinghiale 2010 Toscana, +277012, $29.95.
10. Heredad de Baroja Gran Reserva 2001 Rioja, +276113, $21.95.

Tuesday, May 8, 2012

April 16/12: Austrian wine tasting at Trump Hotel

The Date and Time: Monday, April 16, 2012  2PM to 5PM

The Event: Austria Uncorked; a wine tasting

The Venue: Trump Hotel

The Target Audience: wine trade, friends, guests and associates.

The Availability/Catalogue: wines may or may not be available through the normal distribution channels, or may be privately ordered. The catalogue seemed to have everything needed for each wine in technical terms, but did not have any prices (not even FOBs).

The Quote/Background: "How many people can they cram into this room? The Austrians, while they may seem to be generous to a fault, invite too many people – all of their events are always oversubscribed."

The Wines: While I tried to taste as many wines as I could, the crowds and heat slowed me down. Consequently, I did not try the GVs (too crowded wherever I went), the sweeties, and the reds. But there were exceptions when somebody twisted my arm (or plied me with refreshing ice cubes).

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Angerer Kurt Donatus Riesling Niederosterreich 2011, $29 Licensee

-Rabl Kamptal TBA Riesling 2007

-Brundlmayer Kamptal Steinmassel Riesling 2006

-Beck Burgenland Weisburgunder 2011 Wild Ferment Organic, $19

-Markowitsch Carnuntum Rosenberg Cuvee 2009 [zweigelt, merlot, cab sauv)

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (8890 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Angerer Kurt Klassik Riesling Niederosterreich 2011

-Brundlmayer Kamptal Klassik Heiligenstein Riesling 2010

-Hafner Burgenland Spatlese The Blue Muskat Ottonel 2010

-Leopold Kamptal Gerichsthal Riesling 2011

-Loimer Kamptal Reserve Seeberg Riesling 2010, $55.95

-Nigl Kremstal Senftenberger Piri Riesling 2011, $38.95

-Nittnaus Burgenland Obere Wies Sauvignon Blanc 201, $22.54

-Sattlerhof Sudsteiermark Sernauberg Sauvignon Blanc 2010, $37.95

-Huber Markus Traisental Reserve Berg Riesling 2011, $48.95

-Dom. Wachau Federspiel Terrassen Riesling 2011, $29.95

-Dom. Wachau Smaragd Achleiten Riesling 2010, $38.95

-Muller Niederosterreich Yonder Velt Gruner Veltliner 2011, $12.85 LCBO

-Muller Niederosterreich Gottweiger Berg Riesling 2011

-Muller Niederosterreich Neubergen Gelber Muskateller 2011

-Pfaffl Niederosterreich Nussem Weisburgunder 2011, $25

-Pfaffl Niederosterreich Am Berg Riesling 2010

-Tement Sudsteiermark Klassik Gelber Muskateller 2011

-Tement Sudsteiermark Grassnitzberg  2010

-Tement Sudsteiermark Zieregg Sauvignon Blanc 2009

-Tement Sudsteiermark Dom. Ciringa Fosilini Berg Sauvignon Blanc 2011

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (8587 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Rabl Kamptal Klassik Steinhaus Riesling 2011

-Jurtschitsch Kamptal Klassik Platin Riesling 2011

-Jurtschitsch Kamptal Reserve Zobinger Heiligenstein Riesling 2010

-Steininger Kamptal Klassik Riesling 2011, $15

-Steininger Riesling Sekt 2010, $30

-Brundlmayer Kamptal Klassik Terrassen Riesling 2011

-Lenz Moser Niederosterreich Prestige Riesling 2010, $14.95

-Leopold Niesderosterreich Bergen Weisburgunder 2011

-Salomon Kremstal Klassik Undholf Kogl Riesling 2011

-Loimer Kamptal Riesling 2011, $23.67

-Sattlerhof Sudsteiermark Klassik Muskateller 201, $22.54

-Sattlerhof Sudsteiermark Klassik Sauvignon Blanc 2011, $27.95

-Huber Markus Traisental Klassik Terrassen Riesling 2011, $18.95

-Huber Markus Sekt Hugo Rose Sparkling 2010, $15.95

-Tement Sudsteiermark Klassik Sauvignon Blanc 2010

 

The Food: great terrines, pates, hard sausages (unfortunately, some where excessively hot which did not play too well with the wines or the heat of the room).

The Downside: it was unbearably hot, sweat was pouring down just about everybody's front (or was that spilled white wine?). Was it summer already? Did they turn the furnace off? There was some talk about breaking open a window or two. There were too many people, and it was hard to get wine samples and then spit them out.

The Upside: it was good to have the show back, they took a pass last year.

The Contact Person: Toronto@advantageaustria.org

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 80.

Monday, May 7, 2012

April 13/12: Ontario Wines and Beers at the Green Living Show

The Date and Time: Friday, April 13, 2012  11 AM to 3 PM

The Event: opening of the Green Living Show's wine and beer tastings.

The Venue: Direct Energy Centre

The Target Audience: wine trade

The Availability/Catalogue: everything is available through the winery or brewery.

The Quote/Background: The Green Living Show is North America's largest green consumer show.

The Wines: I sampled some beers from Creemore, Steamwhistle, Mill Street and King Brewery. They were uniformly excellent in flavour. I enjoyed best: Creemore's Premium Lager and Thornbury Apple Cider (King Brewery).

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Ravine Riesling 2010, $28 [40% botry.]

-Southbrook Connect Red 2011 Organic

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (8890 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Stratus Red 2007, $44

-Stratus Wildass White 2009, $19.95

-Fresh Sauvignon Blanc/Chardonnay 2008, $11.95

-Southbrook Connect Vidal White Organic 2011, $14.95 LCBO GL

-Southbrook Triomphe Cabernet Franc 2008, $23.95

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (8587 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Stratus Wildass Red 2008, $19.95

-Ravine York Road Sand and Gravel White Blend, $16.95

-Ravine Red Coat Sand & Gravel Red Blend, $17.95

-Ravine Merlot 2010, $32

-Fresh Gewurztraminer/Riesling 2009, $11.95

-Fresh Rose Blend 2009, $11.95

-Fresh Cabernet/Gamay 2009, $11.95

-Trumpour's Mill 2010 PEC, $14.95

-Trumpour's Mill Cabernet Franc 2008 PEC

 

The Food: none, just water.

The Downside: unfortunately, the number of organic or sustainable wineries has been reduced over the years. This year's show only featured Ontario wines. Also, spittoons were at a premium.

The Upside: more time to look into Ontario wines and beers.

The Contact Person: aborger@integralcommunications.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 84.

Sunday, May 6, 2012

THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOK...

...is one of the hottest trends in cookbooks.
Actually, they've been around for many years, but never in such
proliferation. They are automatic sellers, since the book can be
flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up being a
celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up
on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans
of the chef and/or the restaurant and/or the media personality. Many of
the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the
restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books,
special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu.
Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But
because most of these books are American, they use only US volume
measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric
equivalents, but more often there is not. I'll try to point this out.
The usual shtick is "favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks".
There is also PR copy on "demystifying ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf
also includes much use of the magic phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as
if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from
readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes
(not necessarily from these books) don't seem to work, but how could
that be? They all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many
books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with
tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life
in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding
about. The celebrity books, with well-known chefs or entertainers, seem
to have too much self-involvement and ego. And, of course, there are a
lot of food shots, verging on gastroporn. The endorsements are from
other celebrities in a magnificent case of logrolling. If resources are
cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some
companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them
altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books –
 
11. FRENCH BISTRO; seasonal recipes (Flammarion 2011, 2012; distr. by
Random House of Canada, 216 pages, ISBN 978-2-08-020088-4, $34.95US
hard covers) is by Bertrand Auboyneau, owner of Paul Bert in Paris, and
Francois Simon, food writer for Le Figaro. The seasonal preps come from
the bistro, and Simon explains the ten essentials that make a great
bistro (the chalkboard menu is one of them; the bistro chair is
another). To those ten, I'd add an eleventh: quality of fat used. The
book also includes features on a baker's dozen of the best French
bistros in Paris. There are 56 recipes – try duck foie gras marbled
with leeks, organic tomato and anchovy Nicoise-style salad, sauteed
sweetbreads with green asparagus, or flattened hen with vin jaune
fpllowed by rice pudding with dolce con leche. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but
there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.
 
 
 
12. THE MANSION ON TURTLE CREEK COOKBOOK. (Rizzoli, 2012; distr. Random
House Canada, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0-8478-36536, $39.95US hard covers)
is from the Mansion, with preps largely by Dean Fearing and editorial
assistance from food writer Helen Thompson. Fearing was the author of
the same named book published in 1994; he left the Manson in 2007 to
open his own resto. Here is the collection of some 100 preps from the
past twenty-five years. The Mansion Restaurant was one of the early
leaders in the New Southwestern cuisine, bringing forth lobster tacos
and tortilla soups (both found here). Contemporary dishes include
grilled snapper with a tomatillo-serrano vinaigrette and cornbread
oyster or red grapefruit tart with avocado ice cream. There's a long
history of the Mansion as well as a wealth of photos that were not in
the previous cookbook since it was, well, mainly a cookbook. The
current work is a "presentation" copy for a coffee table, and is quite
suitable for fans of the Mansion.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there is a table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 88.
 

13. DESSERTED; recipes and tales from an Island Chocolatier (Down East
Books, 2011; distr. Nimbus, 128 pages, ISBN 978-0-89272-991-3, $29.95
US hard covers) is by Kate Shaffer who was transplanted to Maine by her
husband. An experienced restaurant chef, she began cooking at a
lighthouse inn on Isle au Haut, one of the remote islands off Maine.
After five years, she began making gourmet
truffles and other chocolates (Black Dinah Chocolatiers). Here are 45
preps, each with stories and anecdotes about island life. It's been
categorized as an armchair cookbook since most people seem to buy
chocolates rather than make them. Nevertheless, there's a lot of fun
here. It is arranged by food format, with breakfast, tarts, pies,
cakes, cookies, ice creams, puddings, and even a few savouries. Try
pumpkin cheesecake with elderberry glaze and chocolate walnut crumb
crust, or white-chocolate lavender pound cake, or roast chicken with
New England-style mole poblano. Preparations have their ingredients
listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric
equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.
 

14. CHLOE'S KITCHEN; 125 easy, delicious recipes for making the food
you love the vegan way (Free Press, 2012; distr. Simon & Schuster, 272
pages, ISBN 978-1-4516-3674-1, $18.99 US paper covers) is by Chloe
Coscarelli, winner of the Food Network's Cupcake Wars. She is the first
vegan to win anything on the Food network. She's had chef training and
has worked at a variety of California and New York restos. She's also
accessible at chefchloe.com. While not gluten-free, the book does
recommend several commercially available alternatives such as purchased
all-purpose non-gluten flours or brown rice pasta. It's a beginners
book but with veganism as the theme. Dishes have been spiced up or
sweetened in order to appeal, but all are healthy and delicious.
Arrangement is by course. Try avocado pesto pasta, wasabi sesame noodle
salad, chocolate walnut fudge, or cheesy broccoli soup in sourdough
bread bowls. At the back there are ten menu suggestions, and each dish
has a page reference to save you from looking it up in the index.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.
 

20. NOBU'S VEGETARIAN COOKBOOK (Pie Books, 2012; distr. Random House of
Canada, 176 pages, ISBN 978-4-89444-905-3, $39.95 US hard covers) is by
Nobu Matsuhisa, one of the leading Japanese restaurateurs of this
generation. He opened Matsuhisa in Los Angeles in 1987, followed by
Nobu in New York City in 1994. Since then he has opened about 30 more
restaurants around the world, and produced a half-dozen cookbooks, each
one eagerly awaited by his fans and followers of Japanese cooking. And
in true style, each book has been a work of art with gorgeous photos of
food display by Masashi Kuma, a Beard Award-nominated photographer.
There are over 70 recipes here, covering the gamut of fresh salads,
party foods, sizzling plates, desserts and cocktails. He emphasizes
"umami" found in many veggies (especially sea vegetables) for full
flavours, to replace tastes derived from animal flesh. Soy beans, of
course, through tofu, yuba and miso, play a prominent role.
Professionals will admire this book for Nobu bringing in play all the
textures, flavours and colours of veggies. I particularly enjoyed the
rice, soba noodles and soup chapter with his take on nigiri sushi,
crispy rice cubes with tar and pumpkin mash, and ten-vegetable tomato
soup. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements for the most part, but there is no table of
equivalents. Here's also a glossary of Japanese ingredients and a list
(with addresses) of all of his restaurants. Quality/price rating: 91.
 

21. NATURE; simple, healthy, and good (Rizzoli, 2011; distr. Random
House of Canada, 361 pages, ISBN 978-0-8478-3840-0, $45 US hard covers)
is by Alain Ducasse, the well-known world class restaurateur, with his
assistants Paue Neyrat for the recipe finishing and Chistophe Saintagne
for the editorial work. Log rolling is by Thomas Keller and Daniel
Boulud. It was originally published in France in 2009, and then
translated and published by Hardie Grant Books in the UK last year.
This is the North American publication. It's a heavy book with a padded 
cover, but it does lie open relatively flat on your kitchen counter.
There are 190 recipes here for simple, healthy and flavourful foods.
The preps are written in narrative style with a fainter than usual
typeface for the ingredients used; this can be off-putting by many
older people. Try vegetables a la barigoule with vanilla, spinach and
soft-boiled eggs, chestnut soup with bacon and flaked porcini, soft
potato pancakes, sauteed rabbit with apples, or whole poached sea bass
with herb cream. First-rate photography. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table
of metric equivalents. There is an interesting index by main
ingredient. Quality/price rating: 84.
 

Saturday, May 5, 2012

April 20/12: Passion Jura wine tasting, report

The Date and Time: Friday, April 20, 2012 1PM to 5PM
The Event: Passion Jura, a tasting of Jura wines.
The Venue: Penthouses of SoHo Metropolitan Hotel, Wellington Street
The Target Audience: wine trade
The Availability/Catalogue: Most wines are not available, although
several agents were tasting at the show. There were about two dozen
producers, with whites, reds, cremants, vin jaunes, vins de pailles and
macvins. They had just been in Chicago a few days before; this was a
joint catalogue.
The Quote/Background: "Hey, it's an active show, with three small rooms
on three floors, lots of climbing."
The Wines: Prices were difficult to find if there was no agent. I did
not try every wine.
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Dom. Andre et Mireille Tissot Arbois Vin Jaune 2005, $79.95 (The
Living Vine)
-Dom. Champ Divin Cremant du Jura 2009
-Dom. Rijckaert Cotes du Jura 2007 Les Sarres Savagnin (Appellation
Wines)
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-Dom. Andre et Mireille Tissot Arbois Traminer 2010, $28
-Dom. Andre et Mireille Tissot Arbois Chardonnay Les Graviers 2010,
$39.95
-Dom. Andre et Mireille Tissot Arbois Trousseau Singulier 2010, $36.95
-Dom. Andre et Mireille Tissot Cremant du Jura Blanc, $24.95 [50% pint
noir, 50% chardonnay]
-Dom. Andre et Mireille Tissot Cotes du Jura Chardonnay En Barberon
2010, $39.95
-Dom. Champ Divin Cotes du Jura 2010 Chardonnay
-Dom. Desire Petit Chateau Chalon 2003
-Dom. Desire Petit Cremant du Jura NV Cuvee Desiree
-Dom. Baud Cremant du Jura NV Blanc de Blancs
-Dom. Baud Cremant du Jura NV Brut Sauvage
-Juravinum Macvin du Jura NV
-Fruitiere Vincole d'Arbois Vin Jaune July Vintages
-Dom. Rijckaert Cotes du Jura 2009 Vignes des Voises Vieilles Vignes
-Dom. Rijckaert Cotes du Jura 2010 Les Sarres Chardonnay
-Dom. Rijckaert Arbois 2010 Chardonnay
-Dom. Labet Cotes du Jura 2010 Chardonnay Fleurs
-Dom. Berthet Bondet Cotes du Jura 2010 Chardonnay
-Dom. Berthet Bondet Cotes du Jura 2010 Nature [savagnin]
-Henri Maire Cremant du Jura NV
*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Dom. Andre et Mireille Tissot Arbois Savagnin 2008, $44.95
-Dom. Hughes Beguet Cotes du Jura 2010 Chardonnay
-Dom. Benoit Badoz Cotes du Jura 2010 Chardonnay Les Roussots
-Dom. Baud Cotes du Jura 2009 Cuvee Flor
-Dom. Jacques Tissot Arbois 2008 Chardonnay
-Dom. Jacques Tissot Cremant du Jura NV
-Juravinum Arbois 2009 Chardonnay
-Fruitiere Vincole d'Arbois Cotes du Jura NV Cremant du Jura Rose
-Fruitiere Vincole d'Arbois Bethanie 2008
-Dom. De l'Octavin Arbois 2010 Cremant Chardonnay
-Dom. De la Borde Arbois Pupillin 2009 Chardonnay Caillot
-Dom. Rijckaert Arbois 2008 Grand Elevage Savagnin
-Cave de la Reine Jeanne Arbois 2010 Chardonnay
-Cave de la Reine Jeanne Arbois 2009 Savagnin
-Cave de la Reine Jeanne Arbois 2010 Grain de Pierre [chardonnay]
-Cave de la Reine Jeanne Cremant du Jura NV
-Dom. Labet Cotes du Jura 2010 Fleur de Savagnin
-Dom. De la Pinte Arbois Pupillin 2008 Chardonnay
-Dom. Rolet Cotes du Jura 2009 Chardonnay
-Dom. Rolet Cremant du Jura NV
-Dom. Berthet Bondet Cremant du Jura 2010 Brut
-Henri Maire Arbois 2009 Croix d'Argis [chardonnay]
The Food: cheese, charcuterie, breads.
The Downside: it was packed, mostly with a lot of young people, some of
them sommelier students. The tables were really small and close
together.
The Upside: a chance to taste some rare wines.
The Contact Person: lafortune@llpx.ca
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade):
83.

Friday, May 4, 2012

April 17/12: Chateau des Charmes New 2010 Releases, report

 The Date and Time: Tuesday, April 17, 2012 4PM to 7PM
The Event: Chateau des Charmes New 2010 Releases.
The Venue: Fairmount Royal York
The Target Audience: wine trade, private clients.
The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available at the winery, many
are also at the LCBO or Vintages.
The Quote/Background: The winery is a charter member of Sustainable
Winemaking Ontario, and work four vineyards in NOTL, with one in St.
David's Bench and another at Four Mile Creek.
The Wines:
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Chateau des Charmes Sauvignon Blanc St. David's Bench 2010, +391300,
$14.95.
-Chateau des Charmes Equuleus 2010 Paul Bosc Estate Vineyard, +319525,
$40
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-Chateau des Charmes Chardonnay Musque 2010 Estate Bottled, +322016,
$16.95
-Chateau des Charmes Old Vines Riesling 2010 Estate Bottled, +277228,
$16.95
-Chateau des Charmes Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2010 Estate Bottled,
+81653, $13.95
-Chateau des Charmes Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 St. David's Bench,
+453423, $25.95
-Chateau des Charmes Pinot Noir 2010 Paul Bosc Estate Vineyard,
+332858, $35
*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Chateau des Charmes Aligote 2010 St. David's Bench, $13.55
-Chateau des Charmes Cabernet Franc 2010 St. David's Bench, +453416,
$25.95
-Chateau des Charmes Merlot 2010 St. David's Bench, +453431, $29.95.
The Food: upscale gourmet cheeses
The Contact Person: Michele@chateaudescharmes.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade):
89.

Tuesday, May 1, 2012

April 17/12: World Malbec Day Argentine wine tasting - report

The Date and Time: Tuesday, April 17, 2012 PM to 4PM
The Event: World Malbec Day: a tutored trade tasting of Argentine
Malbec and beyond.
The Venue: 580 The Loft, King Street West
The Target Audience: wine trade. There wree 54 seats, and by the end of
the seminar, most were filled.
The Availability/Catalogue: most wines are available through the normal
LCBO distribution channels.
The Quote/Background: "Malbec continues to grow in 2011 over 2010 with
11.4% increase. Torrontes climbed 26% in 2011, over 2010." David
Lawrason moderated the panel and kept us all from running over.
The Wines: There were 18 wines, but 12 were non-Malbec.
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Familia Schroeder Saurus Barrel Fermented Malbec 2009, private order
$25
-Nieto Senetiner Bonarda Limited Edition 2009, est $25 but N/A
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-Trapiche Sparkling Extra Brut, +262261, $11.95 (10% Malbec!, 70%
chardonnay, 20% Semillon)
-Dominio Del Plata Crios Torrontes 2011, consignment $14.95
-Broquel Chardonnay 2010, +270231, $13.95
-Rutini Malbec 2009, private order $21.95
-Benegas Malbec 2009, $17.95
-Colome Malbec Estate 2010, 27.95
-Graffigna Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, +277830, $16.95
-Trivento Golden Reserve Syrah 2008, $22
*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Graffigna Centenario Reserve Pinot Grigio 2011, +164756, $12.95
-Santa Ana La Mascotta Chardonnay 2010, +126870, $14.95
-Trivento Amado Sur 2011, $15 [Torrontes blend with viognier and
chardonnay]
-Zuccardi Q Malbec 2009, +723478, $19.95
-Dona Paula Estate Malbec 2010, $17.95
-Kaiken Ultra Malbec 2010, +50849, $19.95
-Dominio del Plata Ben Marco Malbec 2009, consignment $20.95
-Manos Negras Pinot Noir 2008, Vintages July $14.95
The Food: bread, water.
The Downside: I thought the whole seminar was about Malbec. Instead, of
the 18 wines, only 8 were Malbec.
The Upside: a chance to taste Argentine wines with plenty of time and
space and sitting down.
The Contact Person: monica.ralphs@sympatico.ca
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade):
86.