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Tuesday, February 26, 2013

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR MARCH 2, 2013

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR MARCH 2, 2013
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at
http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news
items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at
www.deantudor.com since 1994. My tastings are based on MVC (Modal
Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices
are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does
NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product
consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.
 

======>>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *UNDER* $20
 
Finca Nueva Reserva 2005 Rioja: great expression of aged Rioja, two
years in French oak, black fruit showing, longer finish. +268425,
$18.95, QPR: 90.
 
======>>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *OVER* $20
 
Marques de Caceres Gran Reserva 2004 Rioja, +976670, $29.95.
 
TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Vina Robles White 4 2010 Paso Robles: aromatic blend of viognier,
vermentino, verdelho, and savvy (gotta keep that "v" going),
emphasizing stone fruit and citric tones. +313460, $18.95, QPR: 89.
2. Finca Agostino Inicio Torrontes 2011 Mendoza: another wine with
floral goodness, some marmalade in the finish. 13% ABV. +303669,
$14.95, QPT: 89.
3. Te Awa Chardonnay 2010 Hawkes Bay: very rich, buttery, but elegantly
expressed. Let's keep my note shorter than the LCBO's. 13.5% ABV.
+301135, $18.95, QPR: 89.
4. Kleine Zalze Cellar Selection Sauvignon Blanc 2011 WO Western Cape:
pumped up grassiness, overlayered with herbs. 13.5% ABV. +96255,
$15.95, QPR: 89.
5. Fina Taif Zibibbo 2011 IGP Sicilia: affordable, muscat-like but dry
grapiness. +310102, $16.95, QPR: 89.
6. Jean Geiler Medaille Muscat d'Alsace 2011: rich, ripe, off-dry
mouthfeel but bone-dry finish. Great muscat. Gold Medalist. +315093,
$16.95, QPR: 90.
 
TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Sebastiani Merlot 2007 Sonoma County: classic wine often found in US
restaurants, cork finish, aged nicely – now over 5 years. 13.5% ABV.
+219162, $17, QPR: 89.
2. Nieto Senetiner Gran Reserva Malbec/Petit Verdot 2010 Mendoza: 60%
Malbec, 14.5% ABV, black fruit and terrific food finish. +295170,
$17.95, QPR: 89.
3. Undurraga Sibaris Reserva Especial Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Maipo:
well-made balanced blend of black fruit and oak, tempered with mocha
tones. Gold Medalist. 14% ABV. +301200, $15.95, QPR: 89.
4. Vina Chocalan Reserva Syrah 2010 Maipo: great syrah complexity,
14.5% ABV. Gold Medalist. +38513, $14.95, QPR: 89.
5. Chateau Moulin de la Roquille Cuvee Speciale L'Esperance 2010 Cotes
de Bordeaux: quickly maturing but all the right Bordeaux elements are
there now. 14% ABV. A better wine in six months. Gold Medalist.
+307249, $19.95, QPR: 90.
6. Cantina Tollo Aldiano Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Riserva 2008: lots of
fruit in that North American style of appeal. 14% ABV. +51706, $17.95,
QPR: 89.
7. Vina Olabarri Bikani Crianza 2008 Rioja: delicious, above entry
level Rioja, with all the elements in place. Gold Medalist. 13.5% ABV.
+315689, $16.95, QPR: 89.
8. Tarima Monastrell 2010 Alicante: explosive long flavours follow an
aromatic nose, lots of red fruit and spices. +310151, $12.95, QPR: 89.
 
 
 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.
 
1. Fielding Viognier 2011 VQA Niagara, +142323, $25.95 retail.
2. Southbrook Vineyards Triomphe Chardonnay 2011 VQA NOTL, +172338,
$21.95.
3. Chalone Estate Chardonnay 2010 Monterey County Central Coast,
+80226, $29.95.
4. Pascal Renaud Cuvee Vieilles Vignes Pouilly-Fuisse 2011, +303651,
$26.95.
5. Yangarra Shiraz 2008 McLaren Vale, +911974, $22.95.
6. Château Siaurac 2006 Lalande de Pomerol, +309831, $24.95.
7. Carema Riserva 2007 Piedmont, +317289, $27.95.
8. San Giorgio Ugolforte Brunello di Montalcino 2006, +212431, $47.95.
9. Ca' del Monte Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2003, +314401,
$41.95.
 

Some More recent cookbooks

SAINT-EMILION (Feret, 2011; distr. Wine Appreciation Guild, 192
pages, ISBN 978-2-35156095-1, $65 US hard covers) is by Philippe
Dufrenoy, a painter who uses wine in his paintings, and photographer
Jean-Marie Laugery. It is an oversized art book, crammed with
photographs of the village of Saint-Emilion and the region. The
cultural landscape was listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. The
authors begin back in pre-historic times and move through the present
day, stopping off to show us the Pierrefitte Menhir monasteries,
churches and other buildings, as well as lamprey fishing, private and
public collections of art, gastronomy, wine estates, colourful
characters, famous people (including artists), and more. Each topic
gets a double spread: stonecutters, Chateau de Pressac, the river,
church steeple, vineyards, Fongaban Valley, garage wines, wine ladies,
vintages. There is a table of contents; no index is needed.
Audience and level of use: Saint-Emilion lovers, armchair travelers.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: Michel Rolland is a key
figure in Saint-Emilion, and he uses his experience to create wines
with attitude.
The downside to this book: it needs more text, if only for more
background detail.
The upside to this book: the photographs.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.
 

4. FROM A SOUTHERN OVEN; the savories, the sweets (John
Wiley & Sons, 2012, 272 pages, ISBN 978-1-118-06775-8,
$32.50 US hard covers) is by Jean Anderson, author of more
than 20 cookbooks, and national magazine food writer. She's
also a six-time best cookbook award winner. Still, the
publisher felt she needed log-rolling, probably because
everybody's doing it. So she gets endorsed by Sara Moulton
and baker-author Nick Malgieri. She does the savouries
first, from apps through mains, veggies, breads, and then
the sweets (pies, puddings, pastries, cobblers, cakes,
cookies). Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric
equivalents.
Audience and level of use: those who love southern food,
foodies who want historical detail.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: chicken (turkey)
and dressing casserole; crab pie; scalloped oysters;
cheddar biscuits; chocolate chess pie; blind hare;
casserole corn bread.
The downside to this book: does she really need logrolling?
Also, the index has no direct entry for chess pie.
The upside to this book: there's a huge resources list.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.
 
 
 

5. IN SEARCH OF PINOT NOIR (Vendange Press, 2011, 424 pages, ISBN 978-
1-9837292-0-4, $45 US hard covers) is by Benjamin Lewin, Master of
Wine. As a long-time academic and writer of molecular biology, Lewin is
now focusing on wine. In his first book (there are more on the way), he
explored an overview of the financial forces making Bordeaux wines so
pricey today. His current book shifts the focus to pinot noir around
the world. Every winemaker wants to be known as the guy (or girl) who
can be successful with pinot noir outside of Burgundy, a sort-of Holy
Grail search. He visits all the cool climate places in the world
(Europe, West Coast of North America, Australia and New Zealand, with a
few paragraphs on South America, but unfortunately nothing on Niagara
or British Columbia). He looks at the various styles of pinot noir
outside of Burgundy, and describes many vineyards and wineries, with
tasting notes. The hunt is on…He examines terroir vs. winemaking
(nature vs. nurture) without any conclusions. Many questions are
raised, such as the practicality of limestone soils, the ability to
consistently make good pinot noir vintage after vintage, and the
striving for most wineries to try to emulate high-quality Burgundy.
There is a concluding bibliography and endnotes.
Audience and level of use: a good grape variety book, useful for pinot
noir or Burgundy specialists and wine schools.
Some interesting or unusual facts: the guy down the road is just as
likely to make good pinot noir as you are, but probably not year in and
years out.
The downside to this book: physically, the book is hefty to hold – this
is because of the coated paper needed for the colour photos.
The upside to this book: a must read, gripping in its intensity.
Quality/Price Rating: 92.
 

6. UNBELIEVABLY GLUTEN-FREE! Dinner dishes you never
thought you'd be able to eat again (Workman Publishing,
2012, 374 pages, ISBN 978-0-7611-7178-3, $18.95 US soft
covers) is by Anne Byrn, author of the Cake Mix Doctor
series, which have sold over 3.5 million copies. She
concentrates on all of the popular foods such as pizzas,
pastas, meat loaves, cakes, and brownies. She's got 125
recipes, replacing wheat-barley-rye with gluten-free
ingredients. Everything is accessible and easy. Each prep
has a prep time and cooking time, plus a yield, with
minimal steps. Good basic comfort foods. Preparations have
their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but
there is no table of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: beginning cooks, people who need
gluten-free foods.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: classics of
panzanella salad, French onion soup, spaghetti carbonara,
pesto pizza, lemon pudding cake, red velvet cake, orange
cupcakes, peach cobbler, and brownies.
The downside to this book: it's a little late in the game
to declare "dinner dishes you never thought you'd be able
to eat again".
The upside to this book: if anything, it should help
popularize the gluten-free approach to life.
Quality/Price Rating: 85.
 
 
 
 
 

7. ALL YOU KNEAD IS BREAD; over 50 recipes from around the
world to bake & share (Ryland Peters and Small, 2012;
distr. T. Allen, 176 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-257-2 $24.95
US hard covers) is by Jane Mason, a UK bread teacher. Her
take on breads includes international coverage such as
French brioche, Armenian pizza, Chinese steamed buns, pita
bread, soda bread, cinnamon buns, cheese rolls, and corn
bread. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both
metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table
of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: beginning bakers, those looking
for international breads of other cultures.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: pide ekmeghi
(Turkey), graubrot (Germany), pane di Genzano (Italy), pan
de muerto (Mexico), semlor (Scandinavia), aniseed bread.
The downside to this book: a good selection of recipes, but
I think another 25 would have been useful.
The upside to this book: Strong photographs, always
a plus with Ryland Peters & Small.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.
 
 
 
8. DIVINE VINTAGE; following the wine trail from Genesis to the Modern
Age (Palgrave Macmillan, 2012; distr. Raincoast, ISBN 978-0-230-11243-
8, $27 US hard covers) is by Randall Heskett (biblical scholar, former
wine importer, now President of Boulder University) and Joel Butler
(president of the Institute of Masters of Wine, North America).
Together they trace the development of both grapes and wines from the
beginnings in the Fertile Crescent, through the Roman Empire, and into
the Modern Era. It takes a close look at wines made with ancient
techniques. There is also an interpretation with Biblical texts to
references about wine, such as Jesus turning water into wine. There's
also information about kosher wine and how it developed. The last half
of the book deals with modern day countries, and presents us with the
current situation in Turkey, Lebanon, Jordan, Egypt, Israel and Greece,
along with tasting notes. At the back there are end notes and a fairly
comprehensive bibliography for more reading. Extremely readable.
Audience and level of use: Biblical scholars, those interested in wines
from the Middle East.
Some interesting or unusual facts: all cultures and religions had wine
gods, and some were better than others – Gestinanna, Osiris, Eshcol,
Baal, Dionysus, Bacchus.
Quality/Price Rating: 90.
 
 
 
9. THE LITTLE PARIS KITCHEN; 120 simple but classic French recipes
(Chronicle Books, 2012; distr. Raincoast) is by Rachel Khoo, whose bio
on the inside of the dust jacket is vague and cryptic. She's earned a
degree at Le Cordon Bleu and now apparently "travels the world working
on a variety of projects". The book was originally published in England
by Michael Joseph (Penguin Books) by picked up by Chronicle in North
America, not Penguin. In addition, the book was manufactured in
Germany. Now, I have to say that in a lifetime of dealing with English-
language books, it has been decades since I've seen one made in
Germany. There must be some new Euro legislation…Anyway, the book is
basic, and I am not sure if we even need it, given that it seems to be
the same classics and variations that existed in other cookbooks for
quite some time. While the food shots look appetizing, there are too
many photos of Khoo or of stores. Her topics range from everyday
cooking to snack time to summer picnics to aperitifs to dinners and
sweets. This is French home cooking for a small or galley kitchen. Many
items have been miniaturized, such as coq au vin on skewers, croque
madames baked in muffin tins, and the like. There's a listing of her
fave foodie places in Paris. Preparations have their ingredients listed
in avoirdupois measurements, but there are tables of metric equivalents
at the back of the book.
Audience and level of use: young people far from home in small
quarters.
Some interesting or unusual recipes: rabbit liver pate; speedy
sauerkraut; cured sausage, pistachio and prune cake; upside-down apple
tart; cherry tomato and vanilla compote; smoky fish bake; cassoulet
soup with duck.
The downside to this book: too many pix of the author.
The upside to this book: many of the food pix.
Quality/Price Rating: 81.
 
 
 
 
 
10. VIRGIN VEGAN; the meatless guide to pleasing your palate (Gibbs
Smith, 2012; distr. Raincoast, 176 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-2516-2,
$19.99 US hard covers) is by Linda Long, author of Great Chefs Cook
Vegan which featured 25 top chefs preparing plant-based foods. She's
also a food stylist and media host, writing for a number of vegetarian
publications. Here she opens with material about the vegan lifestyle
and what it all means, and then moves on to nutrition and the recipes.
She's got breakfast, some drinks, salads, soups, veggies such as kale
and sweet potatoes, squash, grains, beans and lentils, tofu, pasta and
pizza, sandwiches, and desserts. There are also some recommended
resources with websites. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: vegans or vegetarians.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: edamame combo salad; arugula
watermelon salad; sesame soba noodles with peanut dressing; diner egg
and olive salad sandwich; chickpea pesto.
The downside to this book: teeny tiny print for the index.
The upside to this book: good, no-nonsense collection of preps.
Quality/Price Rating: 86.
 

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
 
* THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOK...
  +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
 
...is one of the hottest trends in cookbooks.
Actually, they've been around for many years, but never in such
proliferation. They are automatic sellers, since the book can be
flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up being a
celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up
on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans
of the chef and/or the restaurant and/or the media personality. Many of
the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the
restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books,
special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu.
Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But
because most of these books are American, they use only US volume
measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric
equivalents, but more often there is not. I'll try to point this out.
The usual shtick is "favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks".
There is also PR copy on "demystifying ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf
also includes much use of the magic phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as
if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from
readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes
(not necessarily from these books) don't seem to work, but how could
that be? They all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many
books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with
tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life
in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding
about. The celebrity books, with well-known chefs or entertainers, seem
to have too much self-involvement and ego. And, of course, there are a
lot of food shots, verging on gastroporn. The endorsements are from
other celebrities in a magnificent case of logrolling. If resources are
cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some
companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them
altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books –
 
 
 

11. COOKING ITALIAN WITH THE CAKE BOSS; family favorites as
only Buddy can serve them up (Free Press, 2012; distr.
Simon & Schuster, 365 pages, ISBN 978-1-4516-7430-9, $30 US
hard covers) is by Buddy Valastro, celebrity chef on a TLC
TV series. His family owns Carlo's Bake Shop. These are his
family's fave preps, along with some memoirish material
about the food's history. Here are 100 recipes in the
Italian-Americano mode. Valastro is better known for his
baking, but at home he works with his family's recipes. So
we have the traditional from his grandmother, such as pasta
carbonara and eggplant parmesan, and some modern
contemporary dishes. There are indications of prep times
and cooking times. All courses are presented, from apps
through desserts, with salads, soups, pizzas, pasta, mains
and sides. There is even a chapter on Italian pantry
basics. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric
equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 84.
 
 
 
12. COOKING WITH LOVE; comfort food that hugs you (Free
Press, 2012; distr. Simon & Schuster, 311 pages, ISBN 978-
1-4516-6219-1, $30 US hard covers) is by Carla Hall, a co-
host on ABC and Bravo's cooking shows. She also runs an
artisanal cookie company in Washington, D.C. Here she is
assisted by Genevieve Ko a food writer and food editor.
This book has 100 preps in the comfort food mode, and
ranges from apps to desserts. Typical dishes are chicken
pot pie (with crust on the bottom), creamed chicken with
broccoli and mushrooms, southern fried catfish, beer-
braised pulled barbecue brisket, smashed herbed potatoes,
creamy mac and cheese – all the foods we grew up with.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois
measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 84.
 
 
 

13. SECRETS OF THE BEST CHEFS; recipes, techniques, and
tricks from America's greatest cooks (Artisan,2012; distr.
T. Allen,386 pages, ISBN 978-1-57965-439-9, $27.95 US hard
covers) has been assembled by food blogger Adam Roberts who
also has hosted several shows for the Food Network plus
writing articles for online magazines. It comes with heavy
logrolling (Chang, Lee Brothers, Hesser, Lebovitz,
Andrews). It is a collection of preps from some US chefs
(the book was originally called "Great Chefs" but got
changed to "Best Chefs"…subtle). There are about three
recipes from each of 50: Alice Waters, Lidia Bastianich,
Sara Moulton, and Michael White – just to name a few. He's
got some basic stories about each of them, along with a
photo or two plus, of course, three recipes which he fine-
tuned for home kitchens. There's crostini with sugar snap
peas and radishes and anchovies, spinach calzone with
cheeses, scallop chowder, beet salad with pecans, chicken
liver mousse, and lentil soup with sausage. Eclectic, but
then that's what sells cookbooks. There's a resources list,
but do also look at his blog amateurgourmet.com.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois
measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 88.
 
 
 
14. MY YEAR IN MEALS (Atria Books, 2012; distr. Simon &
Schuster, 310 pages, ISBN 978-1-4516-5972-6, $29.99 US hard
covers) is by Rachel Ray, TV celebrity chef and hostess.
She has more than 500 recipes for a year of cooking. It is
also a flip book with a smaller section by John Cusimano, a
musician and a producer with a flair for mixing drinks. His
part of the book (on the reverse) is only 57 pages long,
but covers 100 cocktail preps. The Gunga Din and Quince
Sling have been augmented by the Morning Glory Fizz,
Whiskey Rickey, and the Purple Plum. Ray's book is the more
compelling since many of her recipes are quite good and
unusual. There are ten smart tags to access digital
information such as videos on choosing seasonal
ingredients, Italy, holiday traditions, entertaining tips,
and some bonus recipes. The book itself is arranged by
month, from April to March (the fiscal year???). Dinners,
lunches, and breakfasts are laid out in a monthly calendar,
although there usually is only one or two meals a day
listed. The recipes have the ingredients highlighted in a
colour, which usually works as a standout until you get to
the pastel colours. Then it becomes hard to read. Try
dandelion greens with eggs and potatoes, mixed herb pesto
penne, chapata with manchego potatoes eggs and Serrano ham,
buffalo chicken meatballs, and lots of comfort food. But
will somebody please kill the references to EVOO? It's
evil. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric
equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85.
 
 
 
15. TACOS, TORTAS, AND TAMALES; flavors from the griddles,
pots and streetside kitchens of Mexico (John Wiley & Sons,
2012, 220 pages, ISBN 978-1-118-19020-3, $19.99 US hard
covers) is by Roberto Santibanez with J.J. Goode. The
former has written three Mexican food books, and currently
is the chef-owner of Fonda in New York City; the latter is
a professional writer and co-author of six cookbooks. They
show the variety of tacos in Mexico: fish tacos in Baja,
slow-cooked pork tacos in Yucatan, poblanos pepper tacos in
Mexico City. There are also Mexican sandwiches (torta) and
tamales. In addition, there are recipes for a variety of
mostly fresh salsas, fresh juices (aguas), margaritas and
desserts. The tortas chapter is really interesting: not
many Mexican cookbooks deal with tortas, but certainly they
are a viable street food component. Just not as exotic as
tacos or tamales. And of course, there are cold and hot
tortas, each with pronounced Mexican seasoning of some
kind. There are also many descriptions of food stands, with
photos, a glossary, and a list of websites to buy food not
locally available. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 87.
 

16. THE BROWN BETTY COOKBOOK; modern vintage desserts and stories from
Philadelphia's best bakery (John Wiley & Sons, 2012, 192 pages, ISBN
978-1-118-14435-0, $22.99 US hardbound) is by Linda Hinton Brown and
Norrinda Brown Hayat. Linda grew up in a home where her mother, Betty,
regularly baked a collection of pies, cakes, and biscuits before church
on Sundays. Norrinda is Linda's daughter, and together they opened
Brown Betty Dessert Boutique in Philadelphia. There are only three
chapters here: pies, cakes and cookies. But liberally scattered
throughout are stories of home, making this a sort-of memoir cookbook
about home and the bakery. There are macadamia cookies, red velvet,
sour cream pound layer cake, sweet potato cake, rice pudding and s
strawberry letter. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 

Monday, February 25, 2013

Huff Wines in review

SOME NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH --
 
1. Huff Estate South Bay Vineyards Chardonnay 2010 VQA Prince Edward
County, $29.95 +88955 Vintages: some burgundian elegance but needs more
time to evolve. It's been a fave of mine for quite some time, showing
some lean tropicality and green orchard fruit, finishing crisp after
some oak tones. 12.5% ABV, 14 months in French oak (25% new), tastes
lightly toasted. 450 cases. Needs more time in the bottle. Rated 89 by
Dean Tudor.
 
2. Huff Estate South Bay Vineyards Merlot 2010 VQA Prince Edward
County, $29.95: Black fruit dominates (broods?) on nose and palate,
with cedary leaf tobacco influence, light spices. Best with food. 13%
ABV, 15 months in new French oak, tastes lightly toasted. 560 cases.
Rated 88 by Dean Tudor.
 
3. Huff Estate Hillier Vineyard Cuvee Janine 2010 Sparkling Rose VQA
Prince Edward County, $29.95: Traditional Champagne method of riddling
and fermenting on the lees (24 months with this wine), 100% pinot noir,
12.5% ABV. 170 cases. Crimson colour, beyond rose, much like a
sparkling pinot noir with very little saignee. Winey flavours, but an
intense sparkler dominated by cranberries (typical of Ontario). Should
keep well for several years. Rated 87 by Dean Tudor.
 
 

Sunday, February 24, 2013

* THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOK...

...is one of the hottest trends in cookbooks.
Actually, they've been around for many years, but never in such
proliferation. They are automatic sellers, since the book can be
flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up being a
celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up
on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans
of the chef and/or the restaurant and/or the media personality. Many of
the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the
restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books,
special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu.
Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But
because most of these books are American, they use only US volume
measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric
equivalents, but more often there is not. I'll try to point this out.
The usual shtick is "favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks".
There is also PR copy on "demystifying ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf
also includes much use of the magic phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as
if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from
readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes
(not necessarily from these books) don't seem to work, but how could
that be? They all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many
books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with
tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life
in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding
about. The celebrity books, with well-known chefs or entertainers, seem
to have too much self-involvement and ego. And, of course, there are a
lot of food shots, verging on gastroporn. The endorsements are from
other celebrities in a magnificent case of logrolling. If resources are
cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some
companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them
altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books –
 
 
 

11. COOKING ITALIAN WITH THE CAKE BOSS; family favorites as
only Buddy can serve them up (Free Press, 2012; distr.
Simon & Schuster, 365 pages, ISBN 978-1-4516-7430-9, $30 US
hard covers) is by Buddy Valastro, celebrity chef on a TLC
TV series. His family owns Carlo's Bake Shop. These are his
family's fave preps, along with some memoirish material
about the food's history. Here are 100 recipes in the
Italian-Americano mode. Valastro is better known for his
baking, but at home he works with his family's recipes. So
we have the traditional from his grandmother, such as pasta
carbonara and eggplant parmesan, and some modern
contemporary dishes. There are indications of prep times
and cooking times. All courses are presented, from apps
through desserts, with salads, soups, pizzas, pasta, mains
and sides. There is even a chapter on Italian pantry
basics. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric
equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 84.
 
 
 
12. COOKING WITH LOVE; comfort food that hugs you (Free
Press, 2012; distr. Simon & Schuster, 311 pages, ISBN 978-
1-4516-6219-1, $30 US hard covers) is by Carla Hall, a co-
host on ABC and Bravo's cooking shows. She also runs an
artisanal cookie company in Washington, D.C. Here she is
assisted by Genevieve Ko a food writer and food editor.
This book has 100 preps in the comfort food mode, and
ranges from apps to desserts. Typical dishes are chicken
pot pie (with crust on the bottom), creamed chicken with
broccoli and mushrooms, southern fried catfish, beer-
braised pulled barbecue brisket, smashed herbed potatoes,
creamy mac and cheese – all the foods we grew up with.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois
measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 84.
 
 
 

13. SECRETS OF THE BEST CHEFS; recipes, techniques, and
tricks from America's greatest cooks (Artisan,2012; distr.
T. Allen,386 pages, ISBN 978-1-57965-439-9, $27.95 US hard
covers) has been assembled by food blogger Adam Roberts who
also has hosted several shows for the Food Network plus
writing articles for online magazines. It comes with heavy
logrolling (Chang, Lee Brothers, Hesser, Lebovitz,
Andrews). It is a collection of preps from some US chefs
(the book was originally called "Great Chefs" but got
changed to "Best Chefs"…subtle). There are about three
recipes from each of 50: Alice Waters, Lidia Bastianich,
Sara Moulton, and Michael White – just to name a few. He's
got some basic stories about each of them, along with a
photo or two plus, of course, three recipes which he fine-
tuned for home kitchens. There's crostini with sugar snap
peas and radishes and anchovies, spinach calzone with
cheeses, scallop chowder, beet salad with pecans, chicken
liver mousse, and lentil soup with sausage. Eclectic, but
then that's what sells cookbooks. There's a resources list,
but do also look at his blog amateurgourmet.com.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois
measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 88.
 
 
 
14. MY YEAR IN MEALS (Atria Books, 2012; distr. Simon &
Schuster, 310 pages, ISBN 978-1-4516-5972-6, $29.99 US hard
covers) is by Rachel Ray, TV celebrity chef and hostess.
She has more than 500 recipes for a year of cooking. It is
also a flip book with a smaller section by John Cusimano, a
musician and a producer with a flair for mixing drinks. His
part of the book (on the reverse) is only 57 pages long,
but covers 100 cocktail preps. The Gunga Din and Quince
Sling have been augmented by the Morning Glory Fizz,
Whiskey Rickey, and the Purple Plum. Ray's book is the more
compelling since many of her recipes are quite good and
unusual. There are ten smart tags to access digital
information such as videos on choosing seasonal
ingredients, Italy, holiday traditions, entertaining tips,
and some bonus recipes. The book itself is arranged by
month, from April to March (the fiscal year???). Dinners,
lunches, and breakfasts are laid out in a monthly calendar,
although there usually is only one or two meals a day
listed. The recipes have the ingredients highlighted in a
colour, which usually works as a standout until you get to
the pastel colours. Then it becomes hard to read. Try
dandelion greens with eggs and potatoes, mixed herb pesto
penne, chapata with manchego potatoes eggs and Serrano ham,
buffalo chicken meatballs, and lots of comfort food. But
will somebody please kill the references to EVOO? It's
evil. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric
equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85.
 
 
 
15. TACOS, TORTAS, AND TAMALES; flavors from the griddles,
pots and streetside kitchens of Mexico (John Wiley & Sons,
2012, 220 pages, ISBN 978-1-118-19020-3, $19.99 US hard
covers) is by Roberto Santibanez with J.J. Goode. The
former has written three Mexican food books, and currently
is the chef-owner of Fonda in New York City; the latter is
a professional writer and co-author of six cookbooks. They
show the variety of tacos in Mexico: fish tacos in Baja,
slow-cooked pork tacos in Yucatan, poblanos pepper tacos in
Mexico City. There are also Mexican sandwiches (torta) and
tamales. In addition, there are recipes for a variety of
mostly fresh salsas, fresh juices (aguas), margaritas and
desserts. The tortas chapter is really interesting: not
many Mexican cookbooks deal with tortas, but certainly they
are a viable street food component. Just not as exotic as
tacos or tamales. And of course, there are cold and hot
tortas, each with pronounced Mexican seasoning of some
kind. There are also many descriptions of food stands, with
photos, a glossary, and a list of websites to buy food not
locally available. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 87.
 

16. THE BROWN BETTY COOKBOOK; modern vintage desserts and stories from
Philadelphia's best bakery (John Wiley & Sons, 2012, 192 pages, ISBN
978-1-118-14435-0, $22.99 US hardbound) is by Linda Hinton Brown and
Norrinda Brown Hayat. Linda grew up in a home where her mother, Betty,
regularly baked a collection of pies, cakes, and biscuits before church
on Sundays. Norrinda is Linda's daughter, and together they opened
Brown Betty Dessert Boutique in Philadelphia. There are only three
chapters here: pies, cakes and cookies. But liberally scattered
throughout are stories of home, making this a sort-of memoir cookbook
about home and the bakery. There are macadamia cookies, red velvet,
sour cream pound layer cake, sweet potato cake, rice pudding and s
strawberry letter. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 

Tuesday, February 19, 2013

* FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH! *

 ENTERTAINING; recipes and inspirations for gathering with family and
friends (John Wiley & Sons, 2012, 346 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-42132-1,
$34.99 US hard covers) is by  Abigail Kirsch, a well-known caterer with
Culinary Institute of America and Cordon Bleu diplomas. Indeed, the
book has been issued under the auspices of the CIA in its far reaching
series of cookbooks for consumers. As Kirsch points out, the high point
in entertaining at home was from the mid-fifties to the mid-sixties.
That ten year period saw many new developments in food production,
cookbooks, and the booming upscale standard of living in North America
after the war years. It petered out with the disintegration of the
family unit as more wives went to work, teenagers rebelled, and young
adults simply "hung out" in a different manner. Today's entertaining is
more casual, and there is a lot more of it because of its looseness.
Her book has over 200 preps for party food, covering all courses,
snacks, desserts, and beverages. Her range is from summer BBQs, to
lunch-brunch, family gatherings, tasting parties, picnic and tailgates,
all the way to fancy special occasions, upscale cocktail parties,
reunions, and the like. She manages to cover all the basics of
planning, preparing, and hosting. Preparations have their ingredients
listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric
equivalents.
Audience and level of use: home entertainers
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: three-grain waffles; cheddar
and walnut icebox crackers; frisee salad; toasted haricot verts with
walnuts; butternut squash, eggplant, zucchini and fava bean stew;
barley and wheat berry pilaf; prosciutto and lobster crostini;
tortillas de papas; pork crown roast with rosemary jus lie.
The downside to this book: a few more photos would have been useful,
especially since it was possible to get two dishes on a page. And there
are no gluten-free alternatives.
The upside to this book: there's plenty of leading and judicious use of
white space.
Quality/Price Rating: 91.
 

Monday, February 18, 2013

* DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH! *

1. THE FINEST WINES OF GERMANY; a regional guide to the best producers
and their wines (University of California Pr., 2012,
272 pages, ISBN 978-0-520-27322-1, $39.95 US paper covers) is by
Stephan Reinhardt, former editor of the German-Swiss wine magazine
Weinwisser and a regular writer on German wines. The book actually is
one of an illustrated series created by The World of Fine Wine
magazine. These are guides to the classic regions and their producers,
vineyards and vintages. As Hugh Johnson, one of the editorial team,
would say "These are the wines most worth talking about". Thus far, the
company Fine Wine Editions has looked at Champagne, Tuscany,
California, Rioja, Cote d'Or, and Bordeaux. This book is co-published
with Quarto Group in the UK. The format for all the books in the series
is pretty straight-forward at this point, with Hugh Johnson giving many
of the forewords their lustre. There's material in about 50 pages on
history, culture and geography, along with winemaking, grapes, and
viticulture. Next, there is the biggest section: producers and their
wines, sub-arranged by region. The 230 pages here cover 10 regions, and
include Rheingau, Rheinhessen, Mosel, and Pfalz. Grapes covered include
Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, and Pinot Noir, among others. He
profiles 70 producers whose philosophies and winemaking skills
represent the contemporary German wine scene. Then, there is a final 10
pages on glossary, bibliography, and indexes. The photography is mainly
centred on the producers, so there are lots of portraits and pictures
of walls and gates. Overall, it's an excellent guide to the country,
and it is sure to please many lovers of German wines,
Audience and level of use:  the serious wine lover who also loves to
read, reference libraries and wine schools.
Some interesting or unusual facts: Schloss Schonborn still seems to
dominate the Rheingau, while for Mosel it's Markus Molitor, Egon
Muller, Dr. Loosen, J.J. Prum, Zilliken, and Urbans-Hof.
The downside to this book: the binding makes the gutters seem a little
pinched.
The upside to this book: there is a ribbon bookmark for the craft book
lover.
Quality/Price Rating: 90.
 
 

Wednesday, February 13, 2013

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR FEBRUARY 16, 2013

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR FEBRUARY 16, 2013
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at
http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news
items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at
www.deantudor.com since 1994. My tastings are based on MVC (Modal
Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices
are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does
NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product
consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.
 

======>>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *UNDER* $20
 
Rutherford Ranch Old Vine Zinfandel 2009 Napa: wow, with a 16% ABV,
you'd expect a hot finish. Not here. But just don't stand up too soon.
Bold power, old vines. +279828, $19.95, QPR: 90.
 
======>>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *OVER* $20
 
Castello d'Albola Chianti Classico Riserva 2006, +315150, $22.95
retail.
 
TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Fielding Estate Riesling 2011 VQA Niagara: off-dry on mid-palate,
tons of aromas and fruits, 10% ABV, twist top. +251439, $18.95, QPR:
89.
2. Chateau Roquefort Blanc 2011 Bordeaux: a savvy Semillon blend, quite
tasty with lemons and herbs, long finish. +313346, $14.95, QPR: 89.
3. Domaine de la Tourlaudiere Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie 2011:
MVC, high acid but useful for food, fresh, fresh, fresh. +171694,
$13.95, QPR: 89.
4. Zenato Lugana San Benedetto 2011 Veneto: quite tasty and delicious
tones, melons, stone fruit, fresh, fresh, fresh. +707158, $14.95, QPR:
89.
 
TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Boutari Grand Reserve 2007 Naoussa: from the distinguished xinomavro
grape, terrifically aged well, dried fruit but long finish. 13.5% ABV.
+140111, $16.95, QPR: 89.
2. Trapiche Fincas La Palmas Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Mendoza: 14% ABV,
definite North American fresh and fruity fleshy appeal, best as sipper.
Gold Medalist. +143206, $16.95, QPR: 89.
3. Sol de Andes Reserva Especial Syrah 2008 Colchagua: definitely
Rhonish in attitude and style, with smoke, game and leather, plus
Provence/Rhone garrigue (how did that get there?). 13% ABV. +274159,
$17.95, QPR: 89.
4. Penmara Reserve Shiraz 2009 Orange New South Wales: juicy beyond
belief, with some spices moving into a long dry finish. 13.5% ABV.
+912782, $17.95, QPR: 89.
5. Château Le Grand Moulin 2009 Blaye Cotes de Bordeaux: very
attractive MVC oaky Bordeaux at affordable price. Gold Medalist. 13%
ABV. +307363, $16.95, QPR: 89.
6. Mas des Bressades Les Vignes de Mon Pere Cabernet/Syrah 2009 Vin de
Pays du Gard: done up in oak, very tasty with Bordeaux-like overtones.
A perennial winner. 14.5% ABV. +712174, $19.95, QPR: 89.
 
VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.
 
1. Pahlmeyer Chardonnay 2010 Napa Valley, +147454, $89.95 retail.
2. Tangley Oaks Chardonnay 2010 Sonoma Coast, +311589, $21.95.
3. Cicchitti Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 Mendoza, +301465,
$21.95.
4. Château Teyssier 2009 Montagne Saint Emilion, +226035, $23.95
5. Gemma Colarej Barolo 2007, +232447, $34.95.
6. Castello di Querceto Chianti Classico Riserva 2008, +650754, $27.95
7. Terre Nere Brunello di Montalcino 2006, +208462, $34.95.
8. Clos Floridene Blanc 2009 Graves, +189357, $31.85.
 

* THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...

...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback
reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher
a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will
reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will
rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text
while keeping the focus tight. Here are some recent "re-editions"...
 

15. THE COMPLETE BORDEAUX: the wines, the chateaux, the people. Rev.
ed. (Mitchell Beazley, 2007, 2012; distr. Canadian Manda Group, 720
pages, ISBN 978-1-84533-707-0, $0 US hard covers) is by Stephen Brook.
Most of the text was released in 2006 in the "Classic Wine Library"
series, at $46, and with no pictures, in 528 pages. This library series
is quite well-known by now: a basic layout of serviceable sketch-maps,
no pictures, and lots of capsule histories and tasting notes for each
property described. But the publisher has seen fit to reissue that text
on Medoc and Graves, added material on the Right Bank (Pomerol and
St.Emilion, more material on Sauternes, and even more material on the
satellite areas around (the various Cotes, Entre deux Mers, etc.).
Plus, of course, some plates of coloured photographs. Here is insider
information on Bordeaux, The introductory material includes chapters on
the land (terroir), grapes, and wine styles. The main arrangement is by
region. The directory data includes names and numbers, websites,
owners, size, production and grape varieties. Then, the narrative style
embraces a mini-history with tasting notes. There is an appendix with
comments on the various vintages, 1961-2011, a glossary, and an
outdated bibliography. Quality/Price Rating: 90.
 
 
 
16. BETTY CROCKER WHOLE GRAINS (John Wiley & Sons, 2007, 2012, 224
pages, ISBN 978-1-118-31300-8, $19.99 US soft covers) last came out in
2007. Now it has been revised and reissued, but not nearly fast enough
to catch the quinoa wave. Quinoa is now the hottest grain around, and
while this book has six quinoa preps listed in the index, somebody at
the publisher said that that was not enough. So they came up with ten
more recipes and stuck them at the very front of the book, using Roman
numerals for pagination, and calling it "Bonus Quinoa Chapter".
Consequently, they are not indexed nor joined with the original 6. It's
OK, but it just looks funny and is not retrievable. The book has 150
recipes for using whole grains (barley, oats, quinoa, rye, etc.) in a
variety of ways through slow-cookers, sides, 30-minute meals, desserts,
salads, snacks. Each recipe has prep times, total times, servings,
nutritional information, and exchanges. There is a nice photo of many
dishes, and the typeface is really big for older people like myself.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there are tables of metric equivalents. Try Italian broccoli and
quinoa pilaf, tripe-berry oatmeal muesli, Italian frittata, tabbuleh
with garbanzo beans, maple corn pudding, and rush-hour tuna melts.
Quality/price rating: 86.
 

17. FARMSTAND FAVORITES COOKBOOK (Hatherleigh Press, 2012, 221 pages,
ISBN 978-1-57826-420-9, $16.50 US soft covers) is a collection of over
300 preps, probably assembled from the Farmstand Favorites series which
covers apples, berries, canning, cheese, garlic, honey, maple syrup,
pumpkins ands tomatoes. It's a series devoted to farm fresh foods. The
emphasis is on buying local and supporting the local farmer and farmers
markets. Many preps come from food associations such as the New York
State Maple Producers Association, or the Cape Cod Cranberry Growers'
Association, or Toronto Garlic Festival. Everything is easy in a no-
fuss, no-muss mode. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Here's a resources list and some generic produce photos, and the
typeface is reasonably large (with the index's typeface being even
larger still). Quality/price rating: 82.
 
 
 
18. EASY ROASTING; simply delicious recipes for your perfect roast
(Ryland, Peters & Small, 2012, 240 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-284-8,
$19.95 US hard covers) is part of the "Easy" series. There now 16 of
these, covering drinks, desserts, courses, and kitchen implements.
Contributions come from 13 cookbook authors, such as Sonia Stevenson
with 58 plus the opening primer on roasting styles, Maxine Clark (9)
and Ross Dobson (10). Try Italian roast leg of lamb with lemon and
anchovy sauce, brined roast chicken with a ham and fresh sage stuffing,
spatchcocked poussins (use Cornish hens or large quail) with rosemary
and lemon glaze, tuna with paprika crumbs and Romesco sauce, and whole
roast monkfish. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both
metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no separate table of
equivalents. Some preps for trimmings such sides, stuffings, gravies,
and relishes are also included. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
 
19. CHOCOLATE PASSION; recipes and inspiration from the kitchens of
Chocolatier magazine (John Wiley & Sons, 1999, 2012, 320 pages, ISBN
978-1-118-43109-2, $24.99 US paper covers) is by Tish Boyle, former
editor of Chocolatier, and Timothy Moriarty, former features editor of
Chocolatier. It is a reprint of the 1999 hardback, from a time when
both authors were still working for the magazine. As such, the resource
list is out-of-date (but I also have no time to track down who is still
in business and at what address/phone number) simply because there are
no websites listed. The back cover takes advantage of the reprinting to
update the author bios and give us some logrolling. Here are 54
recipes, tested at the magazine, with material on white chocolate, milk
chocolate, and dark chocolate. Unfortunately for the publisher, most of
the chocolate-mad world has moved on to simply dark chocolate at 70% or
85%, which has 24 preps in its section. Nevertheless, the price of the
book has come down, the photos are still gorgeous, the techniques
exemplary, and the instructions still valid. A good book for the gifted
amateur home cook. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is a table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 82.
 
 
 
20. 300 SENSATIONAL SOUPS (Robert Rose, 2008, 2012, 384 pages, ISBN
978-0-7788-0196-2, $27.95 CAN paper covers) is by Carla Snyder and
Meredith Deeds, both food writers living in the US Midwest. It was
originally published in 2008, but has not been reprinted as a
bestseller. This is a nice database of classics and contemporary soups,
along with 50 international preps such as pho, harira, minestrone, or
African peanut soup. It is arranged by major ingredient. There are
separate chapters for meat, veggies, beans, cheese, poultry, fish, and
styles such as chowders, cold soups, and dessert soups. At the
beginning there are notes on soup stocks, and at the end, there are
notes on garnishes and toppings. As is standard with any Rose cookbook,
the ingredients are expressed in both avoirdupois and metric
measurements, the typeface is clean and lean and large, and there is
plenty of white space for adding your own notes. Some interesting
recipes include veal burgoo, chilled curried pear soup, chicken-squash-
sausage soup, lasagna soup, arugula soup with salmon and roasted grape
tomatoes, and guacamole soup. Quality/Price Rating: 86.
 

21. CHOCOLATES & CONFECTIONS: formula, theory, and technique for the
artisan confectioner. Second edition. (John Wiley & Sons, 2007, 2012,
534 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-42441-4, $65 US hard covers) is by Peter
Greweling of the Culinary Institute of America. It was originally
published in 2007 but with only 388 pages and the same price. So there
are 150 pages more at a better exchange rate! It also won an IACP Award
in 2008. Greweling concentrates on artisanal confectionary production
techniques, such as tempering chocolate and candying fruit. Behind it
all is the theory and science of candy and chocolate processing. Styles
are covered as well. About 200 formulas and variations are presented,
including dairy based centers of butter and cream ganache. Crystalline
and non-crystalline structures are covered, as well as jellies, nut
centers, and aerated confections. All of these include marzipan,
nougat, truffles, fondants, fudges, brittles, toffee, and taffy. There
are more than 250 photos and line drawings of processes and finished
products. The book is loaded with charts and there are lots of standard
recipes. The book is a boon for hospitality schools and restaurants, as
well as serious home cooks.
There is a glossary, a bibliography, and a listing of websites.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.
 

22. SIMPLY SATISFYING; over 200 vegetarian recipes you'll want to make
again and again (The Experiment, 2012; distr. by T. Allen, 346 pages,
ISBN 978-1-61519-062-1, $21.95 US paper covers) is by Jeanne Lemlin, a
vegetarian cookbook author of five books plus a Beard winner. It was
originally published in 1986 under a different name and with a
different publisher "in significantly different form" (whatever that
means). She continues to write for magazines. Her 1986 book was a menu
book, with 250 preps in 74 menus. The current arrangement is by course
or ingredient, beginning with breakfast and ending with dessert. The
menus have been collated to the back, with page references to the
suggested dishes. There are now just 54 of these. Of course, the book
has been completely revised, reorganized, and updated with logrolling
from Madison, Roden, and Moulton. It looks like 50 preps have been
dropped, but maybe more have been cut if there are newer recipes added.
Still, there is no mention in the index to quinoa or chia, the hot new
grains of today. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there are tables of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 84.
 
 

Monday, February 11, 2013

* THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOK...

...is one of the hottest trends in cookbooks.
Actually, they've been around for many years, but never in such
proliferation. They are automatic sellers, since the book can be
flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up being a
celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up
on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans
of the chef and/or the restaurant and/or the media personality. Many of
the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the
restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books,
special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu.
Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But
because most of these books are American, they use only US volume
measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric
equivalents, but more often there is not. I'll try to point this out.
The usual shtick is "favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks".
There is also PR copy on "demystifying ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf
also includes much use of the magic phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as
if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from
readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes
(not necessarily from these books) don't seem to work, but how could
that be? They all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many
books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with
tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life
in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding
about. The celebrity books, with well-known chefs or entertainers, seem
to have too much self-involvement and ego. And, of course, there are a
lot of food shots, verging on gastroporn. The endorsements are from
other celebrities in a magnificent case of logrolling. If resources are
cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some
companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them
altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books –
 

11. TART IT UP! Sweet & savory tarts & pies (Mitchell Beazley, 2012;
dist. By Canadian Manda Group, 176 pages, ISBN 978-1-84533-719-3,
$19.99 US hard covers) is by Eric Lanlard, a Master Patissier who ran
the patisserie business for the Roux brothers in London for five years.
He has since launched his own business Cake Boy (a café, cake emporium,
and cooking school). He's also appeared on British television and has
written three books, mostly on cakes. Here he tackles tarts and pies,
opening with a primer on pastry. The first section has about 40
savouries, plus some quick bakes for apps and some accompaniments such
as condiments. There's an equal number of sweets, plus the bakes and
accompaniments. The photos are very good. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table
of metric equivalents. Try Britanny seafood tart, Zucchini ribbon and
roasted pepper tart, Iberian chicken pie, treacle tart, apple and
almond nougat tart, or hazelnut bread and butter pudding pie. Toulouse
sausage and root vegetable pies were also good. I think the savouries
work better than the sweets. Quality/Price Rating: 87.
 
 
 
12. GLUTEN-FREE & VEGAN BREAD; artisanal recipes to make at home
(Sasquatch Books, 2012, 168 pages, ISNM 978-1-57061-780-5, $24.95 US
paper covers) is by Jennifer Katzinger, former owner of the Flying
Apron (Seattle), a gluten-free and vegan bakery. She's written two
other cookbooks on these theses, but this one deals exclusively with
bread. Here are 65 basic and simple preps based on the home equivalent
of what the bakery produced. Each of the breads is made without dairy,
eggs, gluten or soy. The range is from yeasted breads through wild
starter breads, flatbreads, batter breads, and quick breads. Quite
delicious: Iranian barbari flatbreads, Indian roti, raspberry-rooibos
tea bread, matzo, and an orange chocolate bread. Preparations have
their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no
table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.
 

13. RIDE OR FRY; the Dante Fried Chicken experience (Sterling Epicure,
2012, 208 pages, ISBN 978-1-4027-9429-2, $19.95 US paper covers) is by
Dante Gonzales, owner of the Ride or Fry food truck in Los Angeles. He
works with pop-up stands, music, and underground parties. His shadowy
lifestyle comes to ground in his hard printed cookbook, meant for home
use. Here are 100 eco-conscious recipes (with many vegetarian and vegan
options), some heirloom dishes from his grandmother, and other preps
from his music friends. It's an eclectic mix, based on mainly New
Orleans and Caribbean foods. Try baked pistachio wings, cook-up gumbo,
banana-date short ribs, veggie gumbo, creamed spinach and asparagus,
low country special overrice, okra and sardines, mofongo tamales, and
DFC succotash – or anything with his sauces. Nifty illustrations.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.
 

14. ONE DISH AT A TIME; delicious recipes and stories from my Italian-
American childhood and beyond (Rodale, 2012, 242 pages, ISBN 978-1-
60961-460-7, $30 US hard covers) is by Valerie Bertinelli (One Day at a
Time, Hot in Cleveland), also author of a couple of diet-memoir weight
loss books. She is also the face of the Jenny Craig weight loss
program. Portion control is her key to success, and she gives us about
100 recipes here from diverse sources (Italian dishes from her family,
Indonesian dishes from her former mother-in-law, quick meals for
working women, at-home restaurant meals, and some Jenny Craig faves.
It's all arranged by course (breakfast, apps, soups, salads, mains,
sides, desserts), with stories behind each one. Each prep has some
memoir background and nutritional data, as well as portion control
notes.  Try ribollita, beet-onion and feta salad, pasta alle vongole,
herbed mashed cauliflower, or gooey brownies. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table
of metric equivalents. N interesting book for her fans.
Quality/price rating: 83.
 
 

Saturday, February 9, 2013

Recently tasted wines

SOME NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS JANUARY  --
 

-Sokol Blosser Evolution NV, +206870 LCBO, $16.95: here is the 15th
edition of this wine (marked on the label; there is no vintage date).
It's one of the leading US white wine blends, with elements of pinot
gris, pinot blanc, white riesling, Semillon, muscat canelli,
gewurztraminer, chardonnay, sylvaner and muller-thurgau. Probably only
muscat and gewurztraminer really matter when it comes to upfront grape,
tropical, and spicy tones. The balance changes each year depending on
what the vintage bears fruit, but the nine grapes apparently remain the
same. Lush, off-dry flavours of tropicality, perfect for summer sipping
(and light enough at 12.5% ABV). Goes with any food that is hot and/or
spicy. Quality/price rating 91 points by Dean Tudor.
 
-Sokol Blosser Meditrina NV, +206888 LCBO, $16.95: no, this is not the
red version of Evolution, although the concept is the same. It leans
more to a party wine, with its red fruit from the pinot noir and sweet
pie spices and vanilla from the added syrah and zinfandel (Red
Evolution is syrah-based). 13.5% ABV is enough to make you dance. If
you need food, try the grill for meats…or pastas. It has been around
since about 2005, but just recently here in Ontario, while Red
Evolution is just a couple of years old – and not available in Ontario.
Not sure why. Quality/price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor.
 

-Puklus Pinceszet Tokaji Aszu 3 Puttonyos 2007, $20.95 (500 mL),
+980805): Hungarian nectar, full of apricot, dried peach and orange
peel. 13.5% ABV. Quality/price rating 89 points by Dean Tudor.
 
-Chateau des Charmes Cabernet Merlot 2009 NOTL VQA, +454991 LCBO,
$12.95: Equuleus was not made in 2009 since the grapes did not achieve
the brix level needed (they were off by only 0.4). So this CM (made
with cabernets franc and sauvignon plus merlot) is actually
declassified Equuleus. Here are 2079 voluptuous cases of most of
Chateau des Charmes' single vineyard red wine grapes (Paul Bosc and St.
David's). Expect terrific red fruit, cedar, and Bordeaux-like black
currant after 9 months in French oak. 12.5% ABV. Cork finished.
Quality/price rating 91 points by Dean Tudor.
 
-Chateau des Charmes Old Vines Riesling 2010 Estate Bottled, +277228,
$16.95: Made from vines largely planted in 1978, now a mature vineyard.
12.5% ABV. Succulence like you would not believe, but off-dry Alsatian
character (citric tones, spices), with now two years plus of aging. A
beaut. Twist top. Quality/price rating 90 points by Dean Tudor.
 
From Mountain Road Wine Company, a comparative chardonnay tasting from
vines planted since 1983. They need to be opened early and not served
too cold:
 
1. Mountain Road Chardonnay Barrel Fermented 2005 S. Kocsis Vineyard
Niagara, $12 at winery: some underbrush, mushrooms, forest floor,
higher acid, oaky wonder. Great value at this price. 13.7 % ABV. Gold
Medalist at 2010 Royal Winter Fair Toronto. Quality/price rating 91
points by Dean Tudor.
 
2. Mountain Road Chardonnay Barrel Fermented 2006 S. Kocsis Vineyard
Niagara, $15.95 at winery: delicious, balanced, more fruit than most,
buttery and creamy. For the value of the dollar, best tasting wine of
the four. 13.9% ABV. Quality/price rating 90 points by Dean Tudor.
 
3. Mountain Road Chardonnay Reserve 2005 S. Kocsis Vineyard Niagara,
$22 at winery: on the label, this is also known as cHard Times. Short
nose, but intense, long finish with higher acid. Very oaky, great for
those who like the wood. 14.3% ABV. Quality/price rating 89 points by
Dean Tudor.
 
4. Mountain Road Chardonnay Reserve 2006 S. Kocsis Vineyard VQA
Beamsville Bench Niagara, $25.95 at winery: buttery, toasty, very
complex and still evolving, no real sign of aging. 13.4% ABV. Gold
Medalist at 2010 Cuvee (Niagara). Quality/price rating 91 points by
Dean Tudor.
 

From Amethyst Wine Agency,
 
1. Gann Family Cellars Chardonnay Russian River Valley 2007, $29.95, 
+311571 Jan Vintages: one of my recommended top wine values over $20 in
the Jan 19 release, with full BF and BA, caramel, vanilla and
butterscotch (but not too heavy), 14% ABV, from vines planted in 1978.
There is to be a $3 LTO in Period 13. Quality/price rating 92 points by
Dean Tudor.
 
2. McNab Ridge Winery Roussanne Mendocino 2009, $18.95, +312892 Jan
Vintages: honeyed peach tones, some pie spices, all done up in
stainless steel. This Rhone variety comes in at 14.5% ABV, bound to
give viognier a run for its money. Aperitif wine or first course.
Quality/price rating 89 points by Dean Tudor.
 
3. Quinta da Baixo 2008 Bairrada Tinto, $14.95, +293415 Vintages: from
the baga and touriga nacional grapes, unfiltered, aged six months in
French oak, 13% ABV, shows off top notes of red fruit and vanilla,
could be served with meaty main, cheeses, or mocha-inspired desserts.
Quality/price rating 87 points by Dean Tudor.
 
4. Southbank Estates Chardonnay 2010 Hawkes Bay New Zealand, $17.95,
+278523 Vintages: aged 7 months in French oak, good balance between
acid-vanilla-fruit, perhaps best in summer or with summer-y salad food,
with a whopping 14.5% ABV (but no hot finish). Sustainable-produced,
hand harvested Gold Medalist at New World Wine Awards. Quality/price
rating 88 points by Dean Tudor.
 
From Groupe Kolonaki,
 
1. Eradus Sauvignon Blanc 2011 Awatere Valley New Zealand, +225557, $17
April 27 Vintages: fairly typical of Kiwi Savvies, but with
tropical/floral top notes and a lingering herbal finish that is best
with food (not as a sipper). Usually a proven winner since the 2006
vintage. 13.5% ABV, a bit higher this time around than before (about
13%). 2408 cases available! Quality/price rating is 90 points by Dean
Tudor.
 
2. Casale Dello Sparviero Chianti Classico Riserva 2009, $18.95,
+317313 March 2 Vintages: rare to find such value in Chianti Riserva
under $20, selected as WOM by LCBO, 1400 cases available. Intervin Gold
Medalist 2012, but still needs some time to come around with the
tannins and 14% ABV. Berries dominate with pepper coming at the finish.
If drinking now, do a double decant before serving. Quality/price
rating 89 points by Dean Tudor.
 
 

Thursday, February 7, 2013

March 2013 California Style Thematic

The Date and Time: Wednesday, February 6, 2013  11AM to 2:30 PM

The Event: Media pre-tasting of the LCBO March California Style Thematic

The Venue: LCBO Event Kitchen Scrivener Square

The Target Audience: wine media

The Avail ability/Catalogue: all wines are available at the LCBO or Vintages Essentials.

The Quote/Background: The thematic will run in more than 630 stores from March 3 through March 31. It will be assisted by free air miles and LTOs on 52 wines, running from $1 to $2. Many different wines will be part of the Thematic: red, white, rose, sparkling. There are special releases of 35 premium wines through Vintages March 2 and March 16. There will be adverts and articles, special dinners, videos, a  trade and consumer tasting on March 21, and more.

The Wines: We did not taste all 87 wines in the thematic, and indeed, I did not taste all the wines presented to us today.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Sebastiani Merlot 2006, $17

-Ghost Pines Chardonnay Winemaker's Blend 2010, $19.95

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (8890 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Firestone Cabernet Sauvignon Santa Ynez 2010, $19.95

-Aquinas Pinot Noir Napa Valley 2010, $17.95

-Hahn Chardonnay Monterey 2010, $16.95

-Wente Morning Fog Chardonnay 2011, $16.95

-7 Deadly Zins Zinfandel 2010, $24.95

-Menage a Trois Red 2011, $17.95

-Cupcake Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, $14.95

-Menage a Trois White 2011, $17.95

-Sterling Vintner's Merlot 2009, $15.95

-Big House Cardinal Zin 2011, $12.95

-Cupcake Chardonnay 2011, $14.95

-Pepperwood Grove Old Vine Zinfandel 2010, $n/a

-Kitchen Sink California Red NV, $12.95

-Entwine Pinot Grigio Livermore Valley, $14.95

-Fetzer Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, $12.95

-Smoking Loon Old Vine Zinfandel 2011, $14.95

-Sonoma Cutrer Russian River Ranches Chardonnay, $26.95

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (8587 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Cline Zinfandel 2011, $13.35

-Ironstone Obsession Symphony California 2011, $14.50

-Zinfatuation Zinfandel 2010, $16.95

-Big House The Birdman Pinot Grigio 2011, $12.95

-Gnarly Head Cabernet Sauvignon 2011, $14.95

-Project Paso Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, $17.95

-181 Merlot Lodi 2010, $16.95

-Sterling Vintner's Pinot Noir 2011, $15.95

-Hess Select Chardonnay 2010, $15.95

-Bonterra Chardonnay 2010, $18.95

-Bonterra Pinot Noir 2010, $19.95

 

The Food: great roast turkey sandwiches, beef Thai rolls, chicken wraps, beef sandwiches, wild rice and edamame salad, and more…from Stephen Clarke of Nibbles Nosh.

The Downside: it was difficult to match the wine being tasted with the list of participating wineries. There was no order to the listing. Unfortunately, some of the larger wineries were missing from the media promotion; I was so looking forward to tasting them.

The Upside: a chance to re-connect with California – it has been 10 months since the big California show.

The Contact Person: paula@praxispr.ca

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade):89.