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Friday, February 28, 2020

* FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH! * (Half the Sugar, All the Love, Workman)

 
HALF THE SUGAR, ALL THE LOVE; a family cookbook (Workman, 2019, 216 pages, ISBN 978-1-5235-0423-7 $22.95 USD paperbound) is by TV healthy personality Jennifer Tyler Lee (Nutrition and Healthy Living, Cornell University) who comes from Toronto but now currently lives in the Bay Area of California. Her co-author is Anisha Patel, a pediatrics professor at Stanford, specializing in child health and weight. They give us 100 easy, low-sugar recipes for every meal. It is relatively easy to give up the overt sugar laden foods such as yogurt, salad dressings, dips and sauces; it is much harder when sugar is buried everywhere else. To quote: "Today our children routinely consume three times the recommended daily allowance of added sugar – a problem that can cause obesity, type 2 diabetes, high blood pressure, and fatty liver disease." The solution proposed in this book is to avoid hidden sugars and replace them with the natural flavours of vegetables and fruits. It's a practical guide with kid-tested recipes (and in some instances, the kids can help out in the kitchen). The basic arrangement is by meal, breakfasts to dinners, with snacks, salads, beverages, and mains. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are tables of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: families and seniors.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: caramelized pumpkin bread; monkey toast; baked BBQ potato chips; turkey panini with cranberry sauce; Chinese chicken salad with mandarin vinaigrette; oven-baked Korean chicken wings; BBQ pulled pork sliders with buttermilk-apple slaw;
The downside to this book: sugar is lurking everywhere, they say, which is really depressing.
The upside to this book: it is of course, convincing
Quality/Price Rating: 91

May we all have 2020 vision.
 

 

Thursday, February 27, 2020

* THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS

* THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...
  +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
 
...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text while keeping the focus tight. Some magazines will reissue popular or classic recipes in an "easy" format. Here are some recent "re-editions"...
 
 
 
23.COOKING WITH MARY BERRY (DK Books, 2016, 2019, 256 pages, ISBN 978-1-4654-9421-4, $19.99 USD hardbound) is by Mary Berry, well-known British cookbook author who has appeared as a judge on UK cooking shows and competitions in the American market. This is one of her first books for US viewers – published in hard covers in 2016, and here now in paper covers, although she has written over 70 (seventy!) cookbooks in the UK. Here are 150 everyday recipes "that my American viewers will love". There are also some UK specialties in the mix as well, such as Chelsea buns. Bath buns, It is a standard arrangement: breakfasts, soups & starters, mains, sides, breads, and desserts. It is international, with curries, enchiladas, hummus, salade nicoise, focaccia, Persian pilaf. Standard and classic Mary Berry. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and  avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85.
 
 
24.PARTY-PERFECT BITES (Ryland Peters & Small, 2014, 2019, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-78879-157-1, $14.95 USDhard covers) is by Milli Taylor, a London caterer who has a supper club called Milk & Sugar. Her book is all about finger food (sorry, only one asparagus recipe: asparagus filo cigars) and small bites. She's got about 100 recipes, all easy and quick to do. In addition, there are menu planners to help serve a variety of people and a selection of both hot and cold apps – all matched to the season, the celebration, and the venue.  These include a formal drinks party, a casual drinks party, a festive winter drinks party, a vegetarian affair, and a gluten-free affair. Strewn throughout are the usual shortcuts, tips, hints and advice on parties. Typical preps are chestnuts and bacon, mini okonomiyaki (with no fish), coconut pancakes, beetroot and apple on crispbreads, prosciutto-pear-gorgonzola rolls, and churros. Something for everyone. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric (for the most part) and avoirdupois measurements. Quality/price rating: 88.
 
 
25.FLAVORS OF THE MIDDLE EAST (Ryland Peters & Small, 2014, 2019, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-78879-162-5, $19.95 USD hard covers) is by Ghilli Basan, a Cordon Bleu trained food writer of books dealing with the Middle East and with South-East Asia. This book was originally published in 2014 as "Flavors of the Middle East". It's more a general introduction, almost-travel book with its photography by Steve Painter. The arrangement here is pretty traditional, beginning with basic recipes and a cultural history of the region, followed by mezze, salads, soups, meat, poultry, seafood, veggies, grains, sweets and drinks. It is a fabulous introduction with a good layout. Preparations have their ingredients listed in some metric but mainly in avoirdupois measurements, and there are no tables of equivalents. Some interesting recipes of the 65 given include chicken tagine with fried halloumi and olives; chicken onions and sumac; lentils with rice and caramelized onions; carrot, almond and cardamom conserve; pickled purple turnips; brown beans with soft-boiled eggs; and fish tagine with chermoula and cabbage.
Quality/Price Rating: 85.
 
 
 
26.THE GUILT-FREE GOURMET; indulgent recipes without wheat, dairy or cane sugar (Ryland, Peters & Small, 2012, 2019, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-78879-152-6, $19.95 USD hard covers) is by Jordan and Jessica Bourke, an Irish brother and sister. He's a chef specializing in nutrition; she's a nutritional therapist. The book originally came out in 2012; it is reprinted here (with an addition: the word "sugar" in the former subtitle has been replaced with the words "cane sugar"). None of the recipes here use wheat or dairy, or "processed sugar" (but date syrup and agave syrup is used, so it is not entirely sugar free). There is also use of xylitol, a natural sweetener. But stevia, though, is strangely not mentioned. The book is arranged by mood, so there is a chapter on brunch, another on comfort food, another on foods from afar, home baking, sweet treats, light and fresh, and sharing plates. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both mainly metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Some interesting recipes include apple, raisins and cinnamon muffins; chicken and chorizo with mashed squash and romesco; sweet potato hummus; borlotti bean puree; globe artichoke and fennel; chicken tagine; chocolate panna cotta. Quality/Price Rating: 85.
 
 
 
27.RAINBOW FOOD; 50 recipes color-coded and vitaminized (Firefly Books, 2018, 2019, 143 pages, ISBN 978-0-2281-0224-3, $19.95 CAD softcovers) is by Linda Louis, who lives in France and writes often about wild foods and organic cooking. It was originally published last year in French by Gallimard (Paris). The theme is "colourful" foods to promote good nutrition, based on easy and delicious (with spices) recipes for a variety of tastes using standard grocery foods, mainly fresh fruits and veggies. The three most powerful nutrients in colourful foods are: chlorophyll, carotenoids, and polyphenols. Preps cover the range from apps to desserts to frozen snacks. There is even a section on homemade natural food colourings. Typical dishes include roasted heirloom carrots with balsamic, yogurt and pomegranate sauce; pickled roasted peppers; chia pudding; fruit popsicles; dried fruit ice cream – even mojitos. The book could have been improved if it also used more metric in the recipes, or at least had a metric conversion chart. This is probably the best new colourfully photographed books this year!  Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
28.ROASTS (National Trust, 2009, 2019, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-911358-75-6 $24.95 USD hardbound) is by Laura Mason. It was originally published a decade ago, and now it is back in a revised edition (although the bibliography does not seem to have been updated). It's a good basic book, with all the British elements of what constitutes a roast and how to prepare it for the baking process. It opens with beef and veal, and then moves along to lamb and mutton (the latter rarely seen in North America), pork and ham, poultry (including goose and duck), and game (a toughie). Plus a selection of sides and sauces. Conversions charts are at the back. Quality/price rating: 87
 
----------------------------------------------------

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Tuesday, February 18, 2020

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for February 22, 2020

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES:  under/over $20 for February 22, 2020
 
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at http://www.deantudor.com since 1994.
 
These notes for good wines available through  LCBO Vintages (on a bi-weekly basis)  can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca  or at  http://www.deantudor.com No winery can buy their way into – or out of – this publication.
 
Scores are a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, e.g. a Southern Rhone would taste like a Southern Rhone) and QPR (Quality/Price Ratio value in the marketplace above or below its price).
 
NOTE: The first portion  is based on my sampling of the table wines chosen by the LCBO from this release for tasting. That presentation is about 50+  different labels out of about 125 released every two weeks. These wines are basically those that fit the categories of  any of the Featured Themes, Wines of the Month, Local Talent, and "new" -- wines that the LCBO has ordered in sufficient quantities for the Ontario marketplace. Not put out for us are the re-orders (even though they may be of a different vintage) , ISDs, or the expensive wines.  Thus, my report comes from a restricted database. I did not taste every one of these 50+ category wines, nor did I rate several of the wines I did sample because they did not seem to be of particularly good value in terms of their price.
 
NOTE: The second part (at the end) is a simple listing of  those wines that were NOT presented to the media, and are given here simply as a record of  what sampling I could not do. I have left in the name of the agency, in fairness to all.
 
PART ONE:  The "best" wines of a reduced tasting  --
 
THIS MONTH'S SPECIAL FINDS --
 
Sherry+542746 SÁNCHEZ ROMATE FINO PERDIDO SHERRY   DO, Spain $18.95
R+12984 PERRIN RÉSERVE CÔTES DU RHÔNE AC 2017 $8.95 375mL 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
 
Under $20
=========
W+627067    LA CALA VERMENTINO DI SARDEGNA    DOC    2018    $16.95        12 % ABV, MVC/QPR:  90
W+190454    MUD HOUSE SAUVIGNON BLANC    Marlborough, South Island    2018    $19.95
12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
W+392712    CUVÉE JOSEPH TALMARD MÂCON CHARDONNAY    AC    2018    $16.95  13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
W+11140    FONTEVECCHIA VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CLASSICO SUPERIORE    DOC    2017    $14.95    12% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
W+13447    CASTEL DEL LAGO LUGANA    DOC    2018    $16.95     12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+12281    CHÂTEAU DE RIBEBON    AC Bordeaux Supérieur    2016    $15.95     13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+704353    IRONSTONE MERLOT    Lodi    2018    $17.95     14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88.5
R+13428    LAURA HARTWIG SINGLE VINEYARD CABERNET SAUVIGNON    DO Colchagua Valley    2017    $15.95     13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+481549    SEÑORÍO DE LA ANTIGUA FINCA CABANELA MENCÍA    Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León    2015    $13.95    13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+291989    ABAD DOM BUENO MENCÍA    DO Bierzo    2015    $16.95    13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+13448    CASTELFORTE VALPOLICELLA RIPASSO    DOC    2016    $17.95     14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+13454    SCARANTO CHIANTI    DOCG    2017    $15.95    14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+13398    V3 SANS SULFITES AJOUTÉS    Vegan, AC Buzet    2018    $14.95    13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+224592    CHÂTEAU LE GRAND RETOUR PLAN DE DIEU CÔTES DU RHÔNE-VILLAGES    AC    2017    $15.95     13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+119354    CHÂTEAU SAINT-ROCH CHIMÈRES    AP Côtes du Roussillon-Villages    2017    $19.95     15% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+269464    SISTER'S RUN EPIPHANY SHIRAZ    Epiphany Vineyard, McLaren Vale, South Australia    2017    $17.95  14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
 
Over $20
=========
W+520627    CREEKSIDE ICONOCLAST SAUVIGNON BLANC/SEMILLON    VQA Niagara Peninsula    2017    $22.95     12% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
W+68817    HIDDEN BENCH ESTATE CHARDONNAY    VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment    2017    $29.95    13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 91
W+12653    XANADU DJL CHARDONNAY    Margaret River, Western Australia    2018    $24.95 12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
W+12621    WHITEHAVEN CHARDONNAY    Certified sustainable, Marlborough, South Island    2018    $22.95     13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+12736    ENRICO SERAFINO PICOTENER NEBBIOLO    DOC Langhe    2017    $39.95  14% ABV, MVC/QPR:  90
R+450510    RENWOOD PREMIER OLD VINE ZINFANDEL    Amador County    2017    $22.95 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+13625        FINCA NUEVA GRAN RESERVA DOCa Rioja 2005 $39.95 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+164954    TOLAINI AL PASSO    IGT Toscana    2015    $29.95    14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+12843    TEUSNER THE GENTLEMAN CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Barossa, South Australia    2017    $23.95     14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R418830    SOUTHBROOK TRIOMPHE MERLOT    Vegan, VQA Niagara Peninsula    2017    $24.95     13.1% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
 
PART TWO: The "rest" of the release [not offered for sampling by media] with agency name  --
 
547869    TRAPICHE MEDALLA MALBEC    Mendoza    2015    $19.95    PHILIPPE DANDURAND WINES LTD.   
662536    RUINART BRUT ROSÉ CHAMPAGNE    AC        $123.95    CHARTON HOBBS INC   
183434    DELAMOTTE BRUT CHAMPAGNE    AC        $65.95    ROGERS & COMPANY   
239806    RUINART BRUT ROSÉ CHAMPAGNE    AC        $73.95    CHARTON HOBBS INC   
694653    CONUNDRUM WHITE    California    2016    $18.95    ANDREW PELLER IMPORT AGENCY   
708305    FRANCIS COPPOLA DIAMOND COLLECTION GOLD LABEL CHARDONNAY    Monterey County    2017    $23.95    NOBLE ESTATES WINES & SPIRITS INC.   
395699    BERINGER LUMINUS CHARDONNAY    Oak Knoll District, Napa Valley    2017    $49.95    MARK ANTHONY WINE & SPIRITS   
262097    ZUCCARDI SERIE A CHARDONNAY/VIOGNIER    Uco Valley, Mendoza    2018    $16.95    DIONYSUS WINES & SPIRITS LTD.   
164228    GREYWACKE SAUVIGNON BLANC    Marlborough, South Island    2018    $24.95    CONNEXION OENOPHILIA   
484055    BELLINGHAM HOMESTEAD SERIES THE OLD ORCHARDS CHENIN BLANC    WO Paarl    2018    $17.95    DIONYSUS WINES & SPIRITS LTD.   
398164    WOLFBERGER SIGNATURE RIESLING    AC Alsace    2018    $18.95    SYLVESTRE WINES & SPIRITS INC.   
512582    JOSEPH DROUHIN BOURGOGNE CHARDONNAY    AC    2018    $24.95    PHILIPPE DANDURAND WINES LTD.   
271940    JUSTIN MONMOUSSEAU VOUVRAY    AC    2017    $19.95    IAN J CAMPBELL & ASSOC.   
189126    JEAN-MAX ROGER CUVÉE GENÈSE SANCERRE    AC    2018    $30.95    CONNEXION OENOPHILIA   
637868    CHÂTEAU DE LA GRANGE VIEILLES VIGNES CÔTES DE GRAND LIEU MUSCADET    Sur lie, AP    2017    $13.95    NICHOLAS PEARCE WINES INC   
160846    DR. LOOSEN BLUE SLATE RIESLING KABINETT    Prädikatswein    2018    $24.95    SELECT WINE MERCHANTS INC.   
401232    LUNA NUDA PINOT GRIGIO    IGT Vigneti delle Dolomiti    2018    $15.95    EPIC WINES AND SPIRITS INC.   
556787    JANARE SENETE FALANGHINA DEL SANNIO    DOP    2017    $19.95    THE VINE AGENCY   
WINE CELLARS   
610295    AVELEDA ALVARINHO    Vinho Regional Minho    2018    $14.95    PHILIPPE DANDURAND WINES LTD.   
706077    KENDALL-JACKSON VINTNER'S RESERVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Sonoma County    2017    $16.95    BREAKTHRU BEVERAGE CANADA INC.   
104703    CLOS LACHANCE ESTATE CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Estate vineyards, Santa Clara Valley    2017    $29.95    THE VINE AGENCY   
199802    COOPER MOUNTAIN PINOT NOIR    Willamette Valley    2015    $37.95    THE LIVING VINE INC.   
57513    VIÑA TARAPACÁ GRAN RESERVA CARMENÈRE    Maipo Valley    2017    $17.95    PHILIPPE DANDURAND WINES LTD.   
54239    ROLF BINDER HALES SHIRAZ    Barossa Valley, South Australia    2015    $21.95    HALPERN ENTERPRISES   
383547    AVONDALE JONTY'S DUCKS PEKIN RED    WO Paarl    2014    $16.95    RARE EARTH WINES   
419382    MARANI SAPERAVI    Kakheti    2018    $15.95    GLOBAL CELLARS   
705699    BRICCO ROSSO DOGLIANI    DOCG    2016    $15.95    H.H.D. IMPORTS   
477968    VIGNETI ZABÙ IMPARI NERO D'AVOLA    IGT Sicilia    2013    $32.95    BARRIQUE WINE IMPORTS LTD.   
429415    MARCHESI DE' FRESCOBALDI CAMPO AI SASSI ROSSO DI MONTALCINO    DOC    2017    $23.95    PHILIPPE DANDURAND WINES LTD.   
13455    PICCINI IMPAZZIMENTO GOVERNO ALL'USO    IGT Toscano    2017    $14.95    WINE LOVERS AGENCY INC.   
496414    CASTELFORTE AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA    DOCG    2015    $32.95    AZUREAU WINE AGENCY   
442210    MONDECO RED    DOC Dão    2015    $13.95    TERROIR WINE IMPORTS   
450734    TORRES SALMOS    DOCa Priorat    2015    $39.95    PHILIPPE DANDURAND WINES LTD.   
    MAJESTIC WINE CELLARS   
507889    VEUVE CLICQUOT EXTRA BRUT EXTRA OLD CHAMPAGNE    AC        $99.95    CHARTON HOBBS INC   
12994    DENIS ALARY LA BRUNOTE CAIRANNE    AC Côtes du Rhône-Villages    2017    $23.95    BRAND NEW DAY WINES & SPIRITS   
218719    RESALTE CRIANZA    DO Ribera del Duero    2015    $34.95    TERROIR WINE IMPORTS   
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Friday, February 14, 2020

* DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH! * (How to be a Mindful Drinker, DK Books)

 
 
1.HOW TO BE A MINDFUL DRINKER; cut down, take a break, or quit (DK Books, 2019, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-4654-9247-0 $17.99 USD paperback) is very timely after the Christmas holiday period. It's a book about drinking affecting moods, health, and relationships. It comes via the "Club Soda" community, a mindful drinking movement for those who want to cut down alcohol consumption. It all starts with tying in the will to cut back with the mindful movement about why we drink, who we drink with, what we drink and when, how much we consume. This leads to intentions and change, believing in yourself, and avoiding perfection. There are some good ideas here on changing behavioural patterns...Score another one for mindfulness!
Audience and level of use: those who wish to cut back on alcohol.
Some interesting facts: changing involves recognizing your body's health and sleep, feeling moods and stress, boredom, involving and reacting with other people.
The downside to this book: there can be more of an emphasis in this book on alcohol-free clones of drinks when there should really be more detail on liquids that were never part of alcoholic drinks. It is more difficult to change patterns than it is to start up new ones. It's like the vegan approach to hamburgers or Thanksgiving turkeys – make it look and taste pretty close to the original...but why bother? Drink liquids that bear no taste resemblance to alcohol.`
The upside to this book: good stories told by others.
Quality/Price Rating: 91.

May we all have 2020 vision.
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Wednesday, February 12, 2020

* THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOK

* THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOK...
  +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
 
...is one of the hottest trends in cookbooks. Actually, they've been around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are automatic best sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or the restaurant and/or the media personality. Many of the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but more often there is not. I'll try to point this out. The usual shtick is "favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks". There is also PR copy on "demystifying ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf also includes much use of the magic phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books) don't seem to work at home, but how could that be? The books all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. The celebrity books, with well-known chefs or entertainers, seem to have too much self-involvement and ego. And, of course, there are a lot of food photo shots, verging on gastroporn. There are endorsements from other celebrities in magnificent cases of logrolling. If resources are cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books –
 
 
 
17.FELIDIA; recipes from my flagship restaurant (Appetite by Random House, 2019,  246 pages, $42 hardbound) is by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich, her Chef Fortunato Nicotra, and her daughter Tanya Bastianich Manuali who has also co-authored several cookbooks with Lidia. Felidia is one of the top Italian restaurants in North America, and it is augmented by Lidia's empire of entertainment production units (principally her PBS shows), her other restaurants, her prodigious output of cookbooks, and her food line. The upscale preps here come from her flagship restaurant, and include such oft-requested items as polenta crackers, carrot spread, eggplant flan with tomato coulis, capon broth with passatelli, gnudi, and a range of risottos and pastas. Not to mention main courses and sides. This is a well-developed cookbook for the Italian food lover. The book could have been improved if it had also used metric in the recipes, or at least had a metric conversion chart. Quality/price rating: 90
 
 
 
18.THE CURRY GUY VEGGIE (Hardie Grant Quadrille, 2019, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-78713-258-0 $19.99 USD hardbound) is by Dan "The Curry Guy" Toombs. It's his second curry book. This one deals exclusively with over 100 meat-free Indian dishes. It is all arranged by categories, from snacks to starters to street foods, and then curries in 33 pages, dosas, idlis, outdoor cooking, accompaniments, breads, rice and desserts. There is a glossary of ingredients as well as a list of suppliers (includes USA too but not Canada). Recipes labels have been added, so you can see at a glance what prep is 30 minutes or less, what prep is low and slow, what fermenting/soaking time is needed, what is vegan, and what is gluten-free. He's got plans for storing food such as spices, sauces, pulses, rice, herbs, and pickles.  Then there are the base recipes for garam masala, chaat masala, tandoori masala, various pastes and sauces. Try vegetable stuffed papad roll curry, beetroot and potato masala dosa, kanchipuram idlis, or tandoori mushrooms with paprika sauce. Everything has been created and vetted in his own home kitchen. The book could have been improved if it had also used more metric in the recipes as with teaspoons and tablespoons, or at least had a metric conversion chart. Quality/price rating: 89
 
 
 
 
19.AFTERNOON TEA AT THE CUTTER & SQUIDGE BAKERY; delicious recipes for dream cakes, riskies, savouries & more (Ryland Peters & Small, 2019, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-78879-158-8 $19.95 USD hardbound) is by Annabel Lui and Emily Lui, sisters who own Cutter & Squidge. It is now in two locations in London. The cafe specializes in sweet treats and afternoon teas, and thus the book reflects those activities. The 60 preps have natural colourings and flavourings. There are even some fantasy-themed bakes here, such as rose zucchini tartlets, feta and pepper pinwheel scones, or apple pie mousse with shortbread bows. The ombre rainbow layer cake is spectacular. At the back there is a set of menus for afternoon teas for Mother's Day, quick and easy, kid's faves, vegan, picnic, et al. It's a great book for the baker who wishes ideas, especially those who live outside of London and have no physical access to the cafe. As with all good baking books, ingredients are listed with both metric and avoirdupois measurements. Quality/price rating: 89
 
 
20.CURRY & KIMCHI; flavor secrets for creating 70 Asian-inspired recipes at home (Story Publishing, 2019, 176 pages, ISBN 978-1-63586-158-7, $24.95 USD hardbound) is by Unmi Abkin and Roger Taylor, co-owners and chefs at the Maassachusetts restaurant Coco and The Cellar Bar. Abkin is a four-time semifinalist for the James Beard Award for Best Chef in the Northeast. Both of them attended the California Culinary Academy. Abkin had also worked at Chez Panisse. It's a typical book with basic Korean dishes but there is also the added spin of some Mexican- and Korean-inspired lateral foods, such as a bolognese sauce for Korean spaghetti and Korean sloppy joes. There's a chow fun sauce for coriander shrimp, a scallion ginger jam for a clay pot miso chicken, and ponzu sauce for a miso-glazed cod rice bowl. On board with the log rolling endorsements are Alice Waters, Virginia Willia, and Joanne Weir. Excellent layout with two-colour instructions.
The book could have been improved if it also used metric in the recipes, but at least it had a metric conversion charts. Quality/price rating: 88
 
 
21.THE DEEP END OF FLAVOR; recipes and stories from New Orleans' premier seafood chef (Gibbs Smith, 2019, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-5100-0 $30 USD hardbound) is by Tenney Flynn, chef at GW Fins in New Orleans. He has been assisted her by Susan Puckett, former food editor of the Atlanta Journal-Constitution. His log rollers include a bevvy of Bear award winners from New Orleans. It is mostly about finfish (he's got a glossary) but also covers shrimp and crawfish, oyster, lobster, crab and other assorted denizens of the deep. It is all arranged by cooking method: raw, poached and boiled, seared, grilled, smoked, braised, roasted, fried, simmered, stewed, blended bits and pieces, plus the inevitable sauces-dressings-sides-salads. A small chapter on drinks and desserts completes the book which could have been improved if it also used metric in the recipes. At least had a metric conversion chart. Quality/price rating: 88
 
 
 
 
22.PLANT-BASED MEAL PREP; simple, make-ahead recipes for vegan, gluten-free, comfort food (Alpha DK, 2019, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-4654-8384-3 $19.99 USD paperbound) is by Stephanie Tornatore and Adam Bannon who now have their own YouTube channel. They also wrote "Healthy Meal Prep". This is a basic book on vegan food, emphasizing that your diet can be completely vegan or just eat more plant-based dishes. There are six quick prep day plans, with strategies, followed by 70 or so make-ahead recipes for all meals (and some of them can be mixed and matched). In addition to all preps being GF (gluten-free) there are other tags such as soy-free, gain-free, nut-free. The book could have been improved if it also used more metric in the recipes, or at least had a metric conversion chart. Nutritional data has been added to each recipe. The index is in a large typeface. Quality/price rating: 86
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Monday, February 10, 2020

* MORE FOOD AND DRINK BOOKS reviewed

* MORE FOOD AND DRINK BOOKS
 
 
3.BEST OF BRIDGE: COMFORT FOOD (Robert Rose, 2019, 252 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0632-5 $29.95 CAD spiral bound) is by Emily Richards and Sylvia Kong who have been extending the Best of Bridge franchise by creating new material and new books. They had previously written "Best of Bridge Weekday Suppers". Their latest book has 150 recipes for family and friends on the theme of "comfort food". As such it is very useful for anybody who wishes a basic cook book for the kitchen. The spiral binding is a great bonus, for the book lies flat when used. Typical dishes include breakfast sandwiches, ramen noodle soup, Asian chopped chicken salad, carbonara pasta – all the warm foods that are quick and easy to make for the fall/winter seasons. Some updating includes more plant-based options and multi-cultural preps (chicken gumbo, guyanese beef curry on rice, ma po tofu, churros). The familiar hand-lettered font has been retained (except for the index). Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements; and there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/Price Rating: 88.
 
 
 
4.INSTANT LOSS: eat real, lose weight (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2019, 322 pages, ISBN 978-0-358-12185-5, $24.99 USF paperbound) is by Brittany Williams, who describes how she lost 125 pounds – in one year –  using the Instant Pot and other kitchen gadgets. In 2017 she made a radical choice to stop trying to lose weight and instead keep food simple. She changed her mindset regarding weight loss, dieting and food. Her first book was Instant Loss Cookbook, in which she used the Instant Pot for all her meals. She decided to do all the fresh cooking at home (avoiding processed foods), for meals that are 30 minutes in prep time or less, using healthy and sustainable food, with no eating out or ordering in. No fast food. Just natural food. And it worked too, and should work for anyone: mindfulness, no fast food, no processed food, no ordering in, no eating out, and just eating naturally healthy food of all kinds, even meats/seafood. There are 100 plus recipes here that are worthy of your attention. Just don't overindulge. The book is arranged by course, from apps through desserts, soups to nuts, with material on breakfasts and snacks. The book could have been improved if it had also used metric in the recipes, or at least had a metric conversion chart. Quality/price rating: 88
 
 
 
5.FRESH FLAVORS FOR THE SLOW COOKER (Storey Publishing, 2019, 202 pages, ISBN 978-1-63586-123-5 $18.95 USD paperbound) is by Nicki Sizemore, a recipe developer who had previously published "Build-a-Bowl" cookbook. Here are 77 easy recipes for the slow-cooked meal. It's a rethink of the old slow cooker, which is back in tandem with the Instant Pot. She does compare the two, and feels that the slow cooker is better since the Instant Pot (and its clones?) heats up too fast for breaking down stewing meats and other tough foods. BUT as long as you are aware of that heating up, then an Instant Pot can be used almost as well and you don't have to buy another appliance, not even from a garage sale.
Her overall changes in developing new recipes is to cut out processed foods, cut back on adding liquid, increase the aromatics and spices, add quick cooking foods last, and finish the dish with a compelling sauce/topping. There are four main sections here: veggies, poultry, meats, and seafood, plus brunch dishes. Thus there are chicken and black bean chilaquiles, Asian pork lettuce wraps, and slow cooked cod. The book could have been improved if it had also used metric in the recipes. But at least it had a metric conversion chart. Quality/price rating: 89
 
 
 
 
6.CHEESE BOARDS TO SHARE; how to create a stunning cheese board for any occasion (Ryland Peters and Small, 2019, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-78879-148-9 $19.95 USD hard covers) is by cheese professional and cheese educator Thalassa Skinner. This is a short introduction to the "world of cheeses" plus material on how to create 25 themed cheese boards with international cheeses. Themes include wine, beer and cocktail pairings, as well as kids, picnics, and camping trips. Each cheese has a detailed description and some suggested global alternatives if you cannot find an elusive cheese. She has accompaniment ideas and many tips and tricks, including a bibliography of books and magazines and websites for further reading. A typical board is the Alpine, an all Swiss cheese board. Four cheeses are described, 12 more are listed as substitutes, and she gives us the idea of doing more regional boards for other countries. Suggested "boughten" accompaniments for the Swiss board include rye bread toasts, salted almonds, pickled cornichons, and fresh apricots. Also, she has a tomato and smoked pepper jam for you to make from her recipe. I would have liked an all-blue cheese board for the sake of comparison, but she does have one board with two blues on it. In fact, cheese boards can also be instructive if there is the opportunity to compare and contrast very similar cheeses. Indeed, a few days ago I prepared a cheese board with four different Tommes (circular round shape, earthy gray-brown edible rind, and intensely nutty taste, made from skimmed milk: hence low-fat, high-protein) from four separate milk sources (water buffalo, cow, sheep, goat) from the same Ontario dairy – Monforte. Hey – that way I created a three-fold cheese board of regionality, Tommes, and milk sources! The book could have been improved if it had also used more metric in the recipes to include equivalents to teaspoons and tablespoons, or at least had a metric conversion chart. Quality/price rating: 90.
 
 
 
7.LEAF: lettuce, greens, herbs, weeds (Hardie Grant Quadrille, 2019, 288 pages, ISBN 978-1-78713-240-5 $35 USD hardbound) is by food writer and cookbook author Catherine Phipps. One of her four books is CITRUS (2017). Here she engages us with 120 or so recipes that celebrate varied, versatile leaves. It's arranged by course, from  brunch through starters, light meals, soups, salads, veggie main dishes, meat/seafood mains, sides and basics. There are some good notes on how to store leaves and how to dry herbs, plus some cooking preps on making flavoured salts, butters, jellies and oils, principally from herbs. A section on sauerkraut proves that cabbage is king. Radicchio risotto is one my faves, as is orzo with foraged spring greens. The book could have been improved if it had also used more metric in the recipes especially for the teaspoons and the tablespoons equivalencies, or at least had a metric conversion chart. Quality/price rating: 88.
 
 
 
8.SOUR; the magical element that will transform your cooking (Hardie Grant Quadrille, 2019, 288 pages, ISBN 978-1-78713-226-9 $35 USD hardbound) is by Mark Diacono, food writer. He introduces souring skills at the beginning, the first 60 pages that deal with sourdough, dairy, vinegar, fermented fruit and vegetables, and fermented drinks. Then he goes on with sections devoted to courses: apps, sides, salads, salads, mains, desserts, and drinks. At the end there are some resources, mainly books and websites. This is a through and comprehensive book, full of sour details. You've got to like "sour" but there are levels to run through. I love sourdoughs and sour dairy (kefir, yogurt), but I loathe pickles and fermented veggies. So where does that put me? This is an excellent reference book for its details. Some suggestions: sumac duck, kombucha mayonnaise, roasted plums with labneh, cherry sour cream clafoutis. It could have been improved if the book had also used more metric in the recipes especially for the teaspoon and the tablespoon equivalencies, or at least had a metric conversion chart. Quality/price rating: 90.
 
 
9.COOKING CLASS GLOBAL FEAST! (Storey Publishing, 2019, 144 pages, $28.95 spiral bound) is by Deanna F. Cook, and it is  her third work in this series meant for food adventures for kids. It's a tour of 44 ethnic dishes from around the world – there's fried bannock bread from Canada, beans on toast from the UK, soda bread from Ireland, kasha from Russia, mealie meal bread from South Africa, coconut bread from Tonga, fried rice from China, et al. There are also pop-out food passports, world language flash cards, flag stickers, infographics for taste-test explorations of fruits, breads, veggies and ice creams from around the world. Great fun for over the holidays. Quality/price rating: 87
 
 
 
10.AMERICAN CUISINE AND HOW IT GOT THIS WAY (Liveright Publishing Corporation, 2019. 451 pages, $53.95 hardbound) is by Paul Freedman, author of "Ten Restaurants that Changed America" . He's followed up on that earlier tome by covering more of the Colonial period up through processed industrial food, ethnic cultural diversified foods, and the farm-to-table movement. It's an ambitious too, covering regional cooking styles of the colonies and the westward evolution of the USA. His main thrust is the progression from regionality through national standardization and then variety (as a backlash). Thoughtful, interesting reading for the holidays. Quality/price rating: 90.
 
 
 
11.THE SIDE DISH BIBLE (America's Test Kitchen, 2019, 564 pages, $45 hardcovers) is an affordable look at 1001 great recipes for every salad, veggie, rice, grain, fruit, and bean dish you might need to accompany a main dish – right from a turkey down to a meatball.  The only thing missing is fresh meat as a garnish, save for bacon and pancetta (with over 50 preps between them). There are plenty of tips and advice to help the harried cook/chef to easily find a perfect matching side dish for any occasion. There's 10-minute Brussels sprouts, cauliflower salad, creamy farrotto (farro risotto), potato galette. And it is a perfect cookbook for those who actually enjoy a meal of side dishes (like me). One of the highlights of the holiday gift parade. Quality/price rating: 90.
 
 
 
 
12.PASTA GRANNIES; THE OFFICIAL COOKBOOK (Hardie Grant Books, 2019, 256 pages, $42.99 hardbound) is by Vicky Bennison who created the YouTube channel "Pasta Grannies" five years ago. In her cookbook (and through the videos), she has a mission to save traditions and share skills, one Granny Nonna at a time, As 85-year old Lucia says, "when you have good ingredients you don't have to worry about cooking. They do the work for you." Everyone has their own special recipe and Bennison is capturing as many as she can before the nonne pass on.  While the cookbook is arranged by type of food (nuts, veggies, pulses, gnocchi, seafood, meat, brodo, ravioli), it is basically about the great divide of dairy (butter, cheese) of the north and the tomato of the south. Diversity is the name of the game. Profiles are given as well as backgorund the the many kitchens, so it is more than just a cookbook. These are the secrets of Italy's best home cooks, and it is a wonderful gift for a hostess/holiday time. Quality/price rating: 90.
 
 
13.BINGING WITH BABISH (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2019, 336 pages, $43 hardbound) is by Andrew Rea, a chef and filmmaker. He's created the eponymous YouTube channel, and this is the resulting complementary cookbook...except it also involves storytelling as it relates to 100 recipes recreated from fave movies and TV shows (such as Homer Simpson's Space-Age Out-of-This-World Moon Waffles, or The Godfather's Cannoli, or shrimp gumbo from Forrest Gump).  He's got details about the cooking show itself, plus a range of photography and some memoir-material.  Outstanding are such classic dishes as the timpano from Big Night,  prison gravy from Goodfellas,  and big kahuna burger from Pulp Fiction. The ultimate giftbook...to food lovers or film lovers. Quality/price rating: 86
 
 
14.BINGE-WATCHING EATS (Ryland Peters & Small, 2019, 160 pages $19.95 hardbound) is a publisher's production, with themed snacks and drinks  for your next binge TV watch, as pulled together by Katherine Bebo and Julia Charles from  32 cookbook authors in the RP & S stable of writers. It's arranged by theme: lawyer shows, sports, medical shows, police, murder, etc. 60 party recipes for TV shows. Quality/price rating: 86.
 
 
 
15.FINE CIDER (Dog 'n' Bone, 2019, 176 pages, $27.95  hardbound) is by Felix Nash, a cider merchant who looks at the history, the styles, the apple varieties, and the processes of cider-making, He's also got material on cider-producing regions, cider and food matches, and a great list of where to start with the bucket list of ciders to try. Styles are important (I love cider from Normandy or Brittany), but these are dependent on the varieties available.  There is an art to blending and to using wild yeasts. Cidermaking is a  lot like winemaking, substituting apples for grapes and finishing with a lower alcohol content, usually at the top end of a beer level, say 5 – 8% ABV.  There's the French style I like, usually at 4% ABV. There is also Pet Nat (petillant naturel) , ice cider, still cider, and Champagne method. A good too for those beginning to find their way into cider. Quality/price rating: 91
 
 
16.BAR CART STYLE; creating super-chic cocktail stations (Ryland Peters & Small, 2019, 128 pages, $19.95 hardbound) has been styled by Emily Henson. It is basically how to put together a bar cart that makes a statement in its own right for iconic cocktails and other alcoholic drinks. Carts are from the Art Deco and Jazz Age period, but they are important simply because they are mobile and free-up counter space. The bar basics are here, equipment is minimal as is glassware, and there are some suggested recipes such as blackberry bellini, mai tai, jalisco flowet, dill acquavit, and the Negroni. A great inexpensive gift for the millennial. Quality/price rating: 88
 
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Wednesday, February 5, 2020

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for FEBRUARY 8, 2020

 
WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES:  under/over $20 for FEBRUARY 8, 2020
 
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at http://www.deantudor.com since 1994.
 
These notes for good wines available through  LCBO Vintages (on a bi-weekly basis)  can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca  or at  http://www.deantudor.com No winery can buy their way into – or out of – this publication.
 
Scores are a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, e.g. a Southern Rhone would taste like a Southern Rhone) and QPR (Quality/Price Ratio value in the marketplace above or below its price).
 
NOTE: The first portion  is based on my sampling of the table wines chosen by the LCBO from this release for tasting. That presentation is about 50+  different labels out of about 125 released every two weeks. These wines are basically those that fit the categories of  any of the Featured Themes, Wines of the Month, Local Talent, and "new" -- wines that the LCBO has ordered in sufficient quantities for the Ontario marketplace. Not put out for us are the re-orders (even though they may be of a different vintage) , ISDs, or the expensive wines.  Thus, my report comes from a restricted database. I did not taste every one of these 50+ category wines, nor did I rate several of the wines I did sample because they did not seem to be of particularly good value in terms of their price.
 
NOTE: The second part (at the end) is a simple listing of  those wines that were NOT presented to the media, and are given here simply as a record of  what sampling I could not do. I have left in the name of the agency, in fairness to all.
 
PART ONE:  The "best" wines of a reduced tasting  --
 
THIS MONTH'S SPECIAL FINDS --
 
Rose+552562    THREE OF HEARTS ROSÉ    VQA Niagara Peninsula    2018    $19.95    11.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
Orange+12119    DOMINIO DE PUNCTUM POMELADOS ORANGE WINE    Spain    2018    $16.95  13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 91
 
Under $20
=========
W+12431    LE RICHE CHARDONNAY    WO Stellenbosch    2017    $19.95     13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+310532    CREW MERLOT    VQA Lake Erie North Shore    2017    $17.95     14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+411298    SUR DE LOS ANDES PREMIUM BLEND MALBEC/CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Mendoza    2014    $16.95    14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+132365    VIÑA COBOS FELINO CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Mendoza    2017    $19.95 14.6% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+10806    CASA SILVA LOLOL GRAN TERROIR DE LA COSTA SYRAH    DO Colchagua Valley    2016    $19.95 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+13434    ESCUDO ROJO RESERVA CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Maipo Valley    2018    $17.95 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 91
R+446716    CHAPEL HILL THE PARSON CABERNET SAUVIGNON    McLaren Vale, South Australia    2018    $18.95    14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+387522    CHÂTEAU LA FLEUR GRANDS LANDES    AC Montagne-Saint-Émilion    2015    $19.95     14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+348292    CHÂTEAU VRAI CAILLOU    AC Bordeaux Supérieur    2016    $15.95    12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+12029    DOMAIN FOND MOIROUX MOULIN-À-VENT    AC    2011    $18.95    12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR:  91
R+12981    DOMAINE DES VALS CORBIÈRES    AC    2017    $14.95    14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 91
R+13513    DOMAINE COUDOULIS EVIDENCE LIRAC    AP    2016    $19.95    15% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+13034    TENUTA IUZZOLINI CIRÒ ROSSO CLASSICO    DOC    2017    $17.95    13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+13519    BERNARDESCHI GOVERNO ALL'USO ROSSO    IGT Toscana    2017    $19.95    13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+11632    CABRAL RESERVA    DOC Douro    2016    $13.95    13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+11149    CASCA MOUNTAIN VINEYARDS 1808 RESERVA    DOC Douro    2016    $16.95 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+10692    CASTAÑO ALCARIA OLD VINES    DO Yecla    2017    $14.95     14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+11877    LAURENT PERRACHON ET FILS TERRES ROSES MOULIN-À-VENT    AC    2017    $19.95     13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
 
Over $20
=========
W+158683    LA CREMA MONTEREY CHARDONNAY    Monterey    2017    $26.95 13.5 % ABV, MVC/QPR:  90
W+11913    FRANÇOIS MARTENOT LES MAROUETTES CHABLIS    AC    2018    $24.95 13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+11818    BLACK SAGE VINEYARD SHIRAZ    BC VQA Okanagan Valley    2016    $31.95 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+13238    BOOKWALTER READERS CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Columbia Valley    2016    $35.95 14% ABV, MVC/QPR:  89
R+12845    TRENTHAM ESTATE RESERVE PINOT NOIR    Tasmania    2015    $24.95    13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+968693    PIERRE AMADIEU DOMAINE GRAND ROMANE CUVÉE PRESTIGE VIEILLES VIGNES GIGONDAS    AC    2017    $33.95    15% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+262956    DONNACHIARA IRPINIA AGLIANICO    DOC    2017    $24.95    13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+487090    TORNATORE NERELLO MASCALESE/NERELLO CAPPUCCIO    DOC Etna Rosso    2017    $23.95 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+47118    CARPINETO RISERVA CHIANTI CLASSICO    DOCG    2015    $28.95    13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+12421    RICKETY BRIDGE SHIRAZ    WO Western Cape    2015    $24.95    14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+12094    PETRA HEBO SUVERETO    IGT Toscana    2016    $24.95    14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
 
PART TWO: The "rest" of the release [not offered for sampling by media] with agency name  --
 
65110    VILMART & CIE GRAND CELLIER 1ER CRU BRUT CHAMPAGNE    AC        $92.95    ROGERS & COMPANY   
405555    CHANDON SPARKLING ROSÉ    Traditional method, California        $34.95    CHARTON HOBBS INC   
51565    LOUIS BOUILLOT PERLE D'OR BRUT CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE    Traditional method, AC, Burgundy, France    2012    $24.95    CHARTON HOBBS INC   
515288    RIVAROSE BRUT SPARKLING ROSÉ    IGP Méditérranée, Provence, France        $18.95    SYLVESTRE WINES & SPIRITS INC.   
352153    FERRARI BRUT SPARKLING    Traditional method, DOC Trento, Italy        $24.95    PHILIPPE DANDURAND WINES LTD.   
515254    VILARNAU BRUT RESERVA CAVA    Traditional method, DO, Spain        $15.95    WOODMAN WINES & SPIRITS   
265983    MCMANIS CHARDONNAY    Estate grown, River Junction    2018    $19.95    THE VINE AGENCY   
10851    SCHEID CRAFTWORK ESTATE SAUVIGNON BLANC    Monterey County    2017    $19.95    WINEONLINE MARKETING COMPANY LTD   
685651    CHATEAU STE. MICHELLE RIESLING    Columbia Valley    2018    $16.95    PHILIPPE DANDURAND WINES LTD.   
389262    ZUCCARDI SERIE A TORRONTÉS    IP Salta    2019    $16.95    DIONYSUS WINES & SPIRITS LTD.   
536169    SOHO WHITE COLLECTION PINOT GRIS    Marlborough, South Island    2018    $19.95    H.H.D. IMPORTS   
225557    ERADUS SAUVIGNON BLANC    Awatere Valley, Marlborough, South Island    2019    $17.95    THE KOLONAKI GROUP INC   
196956    JOSEPH CATTIN PINOT GRIS    AC Alsace    2018    $15.95    DIONYSUS WINES & SPIRITS LTD.   
446369    ROUX PÈRE & FILS BOURGOGNE CHARDONNAY    AC    2017    $19.95    VINEXX   
521997    DOMAINE DE LA BAUME LES MARIÉS SAUVIGNON BLANC    IGP Pays d'Oc    2018    $16.95    ANDREW PELLER IMPORT AGENCY   
289553    UMANI RONCHI VELLODORO PECORINO    IGT Terre di Chieti    2018    $16.95    PERUGINI   
95802    PETER ZEMMER PINOT GRIGIO    DOC Alto Adige    2017    $17.95    30 50 IMPORTS   
204768    SAN RAFFAELE PINOT GRIGIO    Vegan friendly, DOC delle Venezie    2018    $15.95    CONNEXION OENOPHILIA   
89003    RIDGEPOINT PINOT NOIR    VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Escarpment    2012    $24.95    BASSOALTO INC.   
245613    FROGPOND FARM GAMAY NOIR    VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake    2017    $16.95    FROGPOND FARM WINERY   
718759    CAYMUS NAPA VALLEY ZINFANDEL    Napa Valley    2017    $59.95    ANDREW PELLER IMPORT AGENCY   
460642    DECOY MERLOT    Sonoma County    2017    $34.95    ROGERS & COMPANY   
342824    CANNONBALL MERLOT    California    2017    $22.95    ROGERS & COMPANY   
59113    KLINKER BRICK OLD VINE ZINFANDEL    Mokelumne River, Lodi    2015    $23.95    CARPE VINUM INTERNATIONAL   
547695    PIKE ROAD PINOT NOIR    Willamette Valley    2015    $26.95    BREAKTHRU BEVERAGE CANADA INC.   
421149    ACROBAT PINOT NOIR    Oregon    2016    $29.95    CHARTON HOBBS INC   
568865    TRAPICHE MEDALLA CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Mendoza    2016    $16.95    PHILIPPE DANDURAND WINES LTD.   
404137    TINTONEGRO LIMESTONE BLOCK MALBEC    Mendoza    2015    $19.95    DU CHASSE WINES & SPIRITS   
37937    MONTES LIMITED SELECTION PINOT NOIR    DO Aconcagua Costa    2017    $14.95    VIN VINO WINE MERCHANTS INC.   
632620    DON'T TELL GARY SHIRAZ    Grampians, Victoria    2017    $21.95    GRAPE EXPECTATIONS WINE AGENCY   
12429    ALVI'S DRIFT SIGNATURE SHIRAZ    WO Western Cape    2018    $13.95    CHURCHILL CELLARS LTD.   
53124    CATHEDRAL CELLAR TRIPTYCH    WO Western Cape    2015    $17.95    PHILIPPE DANDURAND WINES LTD.   
463273    CHÂTEAU LANGLAIS    AC Puisseguin-Saint-Émilion    2009    $39.95    VINETER   
448829    CHÂTEAU TOUR DE SARRAIL    AC Bordeaux    2010    $19.95    VINOLUNA   
363101    CHÂTEAU DES LANDES CUVÉE PRESTIGE    AC Lussac-Saint-Émilion    2015    $27.95    VINETER   
527937    MATHIEU PAQUET BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR    AP Bourgogne    2018    $22.95    TRADESA CORP.   
102954    CHÂTEAU LA CAMINADE    AP Cahors    2018    $19.95    THE CASE FOR WINE   
636613    ALCHYMIA PRIMITIVO    IGT Puglia    2015    $19.95    AZUREAU WINE AGENCY   
674135    GUADO AL TASSO IL BRUCIATO    DOC Bolgheri    2017    $25.95    HALPERN ENTERPRISES   
491985    LORNANO GRAN SELEZIONE CHIANTI CLASSICO    DOCG    2012    $45.95    FRONTIER WINE MERCHANTS   
568022    VILLA POGGIO SALVI CASPAGNOLO CHIANTI COLLI SENESI    DOCG    2018    $15.95    HALPERN ENTERPRISES   
451724    ZENATO ALANERA    IGT Rosso Veronese    2016    $19.95    JOSEPH CIPELLI WINES & SPIRITS   
958868    BARÓN DE LEY RESERVA    DOCa Rioja    2014    $21.95    NOBLE ESTATES WINES & SPIRITS INC.   
723452    ONDARRE RESERVA    DOCa Rioja    2015    $19.95    MACDONALD AND COMPANY                           
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Monday, February 3, 2020

The January 28 Event: Australian Wine Winter Trade Tasting 2020 Toronto

The Date and Time:  Tuesday, January 28, 2020   1 - 4PM
The Event: Australian Wine Winter Trade Tasting 2020 Toronto
The Venue: The Great Hall, Queen St West
The Target Audience: wine trade
The Availability/Catalogue: a smart looking booklet arranged by agent tables with a special one for the seminar wines (Heritage and Place: the evolution of an Australian classic [shiraz], complete with RRP prices and email addresses. Unfortunately, no pens were available (like last year).
The Quote/Background: All major regions are repped here, with just under 200 wines available for tasting from 68 wineries.
The Wines:  I did not taste every wine. I concentrated on Chardonnays and Cabernet Sauvignons with a smattering of other wines. I folded in some seminar wine tastings. Prices are retail unless otherwise stated. Most of the wines are only available through the agent (as listed).
 
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Angove Family Winemakers Warboys Single Vineyard McLaren Vale Shiraz 2017 $46 Case for Wine
-Bleasdale Wines Powder Monkey Lanhorne Creek Shiraz 2015 $59.95 Azureau
-Barossa Valley Estate E&E Black Pepper Barossa Valley Shiraz 2016 $99.95 Delegat Canada
-Mollydooker Wines Blue Eyed Boy McLaren Vale Shiraz 2017 $67.95 Breakthru Beverage Canada
-Clarendon Hills Sandown McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 $84.95 Breakthru
-Innocent Bystander Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2017 $26.95 Von Terra
-Giant Steps Wine Applejack Vineyard Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2018 $59.80 Alto Vino
-Clonakilla Canberra District Shiraz Viognier 2018 $105 Alto Vino
-Soumah d'Soumah Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2018 $27.95 Gradwell Wines
-Vasse Felix Margaret River Chardonnay 2017 $42.95 Licensee Breakthru
-Montalto Pennon Hill Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay 2018 $29.95 Nicolas Pearce
-Montalto Estate Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay 2018 $46.95 Nicolas Pearce
-Torbreck Vintners Factor Barossa Shiraz 2016 $151.95 Noble Estates
-Rymill Coonawarra The Surveyor Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 $67 Epic Wines
-Penfolds Bin 407 South Australia Barossa Valley Coonawarra LcLaren Vale Padthaway Wrattonbully Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 $100 Mark Anthony
-Xanadu Wines Estate Margaret River Chardonnay 2018 $46.99 Noble Estates
-Stella Bella Luminosa Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 $75 HHD Imports
-Voyager Estate Margaret River Chardonnay 2017 $39.95 Rogers & Co
-Voyager Estate Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 $69.95 Rogers & Co
-Hickinbotham Trueman McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 $119  Jackson Family Wines
-Hickinbotham The Revivalist McLaren Vale Merlot 2016 $119  Jackson Family Wines
 
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Tahbilk Old Vines Nagambie Lakes Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2016 $39.95 Grape Expectations
-Voyager Estate Project Sparkling Margaret River Chenin Blanc 2019 $29.95 Rogers & Co
-Irrewarra Central Ranges Pinot 2016  $70 Alto Vino
-Wines By Farr Farrside Geelong Pinot Noir 2016 $85.60 Alto Vino
-Angove Family Winemakers Warboys Single Vineyard McLaren Vale Grenache 2017 $46 Case for Wine
-Chalk Hill Wines Alpha Crucis Old Vines McLaren Vale Grenche 2018 $44.95 Azureau
-Pepper Tree Estate Elderslee Road Single Vineyard Wrattonbully Cabernet Franc 2014 $39.95 Azureau
-Clarendon Hills Domaine Clarendon BDX McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2016 $54.95 Breakthru
-Giant Steps Wine Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2019 $29.95 Alto Vino
-Jasper Hill Vineyard Georgia's Paddock Heathcote Shiraz 2015 $95 Alto Vino
-Soumah Hexham Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2018 $31.95 Gradwell Wines
-Oxford Landing Estates South Australia Chardonnay 2018 $11.95 Licensee Breakthru
-Penfolds Bin 311 Adelaide Hills Tasmania Tumbarumba Chardonnay 2018 $50 Mark Anthony
-Wynns Coonawarra Estate Black Label Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 $39.95 Mark Anthony
-Xanadu Wines DJL Margaret River Chardonnay 2018 $23.95 Noble Estates
-Tyrrell's HVD Single Vineyard Hunter Valley Semillon 2014 $43 Select Wines
-Stella Bella Skuttlebutt Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2018 $18.95 HHD Imports
-Stella Bella Suckfizzle Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2018 $38 HHD Imports
-Hickinbotham Brooks Road McLaren Vale Shiraz 2016 $119  Jackson Family Wines
-Yangarra PF McLaren Vale Shiraz 2019 $29.95 Jackson Family Wines
-Tyrrell's Wines Hunter Valley Shiraz 2017 $24.95 Select
-Giant Steps Tarraford Vineyard Yarra Valley Shiraz 2018 $60  Alto Vino
-Paxton Wines Quandong Farm McLaren Vale Shiraz 2018 $32.99 Noble Estates
 
The Food: cheese boards, along with breads and crackers, jams, fresh fruit.
The Downside: The place was packed! still, there was lots of room to manoeuvre about because there was space between tables.
The Upside: a really great opportunity to see where Oz wines are today.
The Contact Person: canada@wineaustralia.com; annie.dingwall@wineaustralia.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 90
 

May we all have 2020 vision.
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Saturday, February 1, 2020

SOME NEW BEVERAGE SAMPLES SENT TO ME FOR TASTING IN JANUARY –

SOME NEW BEVERAGE SAMPLES SENT TO ME FOR TASTING IN JANUARY –
 
1.Gerard Bertrand Terroir Fitou 2018 $17.95 +403683 Vintages March: Bertrand continues to advance the Terroir series (and the Grand Terroir series) with more localized vineyards. Here it is Fitou, with its grenache and carignan grapes, vinified separately. The carignan has carbonic maceration for two weeks; the grenache is done in traditional style. Some of the wine is barrel aged for a year. Everything here seems to be concentrated in aromas and flavours, red fruit and undergrowth dominating. 14% ABV. The 2017 was just here in November 2019, and was a dollar less. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
2.Quinta de Curvos Loureiro Vinho Verde 20189 +471284, $12.95 Vintages March: 12% ABV, with lightly floral tones on the nose and on the palate, ending with aromatic softness. 100% Loureiro grape, done up as a vinho verde. Best sipped or with Asiatic appetizers. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
3.Vinedos Marchigue Quilina Carmenere Gran Reserva Colchagua 2018 +13430, $14.95 Vintages March: from Chile's biggest family owned estates (part of Errazuriz Ovalle Family holdings). Black fruit dominates, with cherry-berry and oak (French and US for six months) tones. The medium body is complemented by the medium acidity – goes well with comfort food pairing such as stews, sausages, beans, curries, and with patio sipping. The finish is intense and lush in the New World style. Easy-going BBQ wine. 14% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 

May we all have 2020 vision.
Chimo! www.deantudor.com
AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
AND https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Dean Tudor, Ryerson University Journalism Professor Emeritus
Treasurer, Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://winewriterscircle.ca
Look it up and you'll remember it; screw it up and you'll never forget it.