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Wednesday, May 27, 2020

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for MAY 30, 2020

 
WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES:  under/over $20 for MAY 30, 2020
 
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at http://www.deantudor.com since 1994.
 
These notes for good wines available through  LCBO Vintages (on a bi-weekly basis)  can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca  or at  http://www.deantudor.com No winery can buy their way into – or out of – this publication.
 
Scores are a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, e.g. a Southern Rhone would taste like a Southern Rhone) and QPR (Quality/Price Ratio value in the marketplace above or below its price).
 
Currently, the wine media have no access to the 50 or so tasting samples usually provided to us in the LCBO lab on a fortnightly basis. This will go on until at least the June 13 release. HOWEVER,  the wine media will still have access to the advance spreadsheet of the wines to be released. So I know what is to be released and when. SOME (but not many) of these wines I have recently tasted since January 2020 or so, and I can comfortably recommend them based on this prior sampling. At the end are some fuller reviews of new products....
 
[I'm in the midst of conducting the annual rose tasting held by the Wine Writers' Circle of Canada. Here are some nifty ROSES from this May 30 release for your enjoyment] ---
 
Still Rose --
+552497    PELEE ISLAND LOLA CABERNET FRANC ROSÉ    VQA South Islands, Lake Erie North Shore    2018    $15.95     W+461640    MVC/QPR: 89
+552562    HENRY OF PELHAM THREE OF HEARTS ROSÉ  VQA Niagara Peninsula    2019 $19.95     Now a Vintages Essential.  MVC/QPR: 90
+177840    PENINSULA RIDGE BEAL VINEYARD CABERNET ROSÉ    VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment    2019    $14.95     MVC/QPR: 89
+562595    THE PALM BY WHISPERING ANGEL [rose]    AC Côteaux d'Aix-en-Provence    2019    $22.95    MVC/QPR: 89
and for those big, big lawn parties, in the 1500 mL magnum bottle:  +490912    GÉRARD BERTRAND CÔTE DES ROSES ROSÉ AP Languedoc    2018    $37.95    1500mL  MVC/QPR: 90
 
Sparkling Rose --
+15686    GRUET BRUT SPARKLING ROSÉ Traditional method,  New Mexico $26.95 MVC/QPR: 90+
 
Under $20
=========
W+413757    LA CAVE DU COUDRAY RÉSERVE DU CHIRON MUSCADET SÈVRE ET MAINE    Sur lie, AC    2018    $15.95    MVC/QPR: 89
R+394288    GÉRARD BERTRAND GRENACHE/SYRAH/MOURVÈDRE    AP Corbières    2016    $17.95    MVC/QPR: 90
R+538041    THE FOREIGN AFFAIR THE EMBRACE    [gamay] VQA Niagara Peninsula    2017    $16.95 MVC/QPR: 90
R+131540  FEATHERSTONE RED TAIL MERLOT    VQA Niagara Peninsula        2017    750    $19.95 MVC/QPR: 90   
R+166512    VALDEMAR INSPIRACIÓN SELECCIÓN DOCa Rioja    2015    $19.95    MVC/QPR: 89
R+ 545772    BUENA VISTA THE LEGENDARY BADGE PETITE SIRAH    California    2018    $17.95    MVC/QPR: 90
R+516765    JEAN-PIERRE MOUEIX BORDEAUX    AC    2016    $18.95    MVC/QPR: 89
R+630103    CHÂTEAU LES PETITS ARNAUDS TRADITION    AC Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux    2016    $16.95     MVC/QPR: 89
R+574087    I BALZI GOVERNO ALL'USO    IGT Rosso Toscana    2017 $16.95    MVC/QPR:89
R+999946    REMO FARINA RIPASSO VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO SUPERIORE    DOC    2018    $18.95     MVC/QPR: 89
 
Over $20
=========
Sparkling+400432    MOUTARD PÈRE & FILS GRANDE CUVÉE BRUT CHAMPAGNE    AC, France        $52.95 MVC/QPR: 89
Sparkling+234161    JACKSON-TRIGGS ENTOURAGE GRAND RESERVE BRUT SPARKLING    Traditional method, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario    2016    $29.95     MVC/QPR: 90
W+461640    WILLIAM FÈVRE CHAMPS ROYAUX CHABLIS 2018     $29.95  MVC/QPR: 89
R+393686    NUGAN ESTATE ALCIRA VINEYARD CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Coonawarra, South Australia    2016    $29.95    MVC/QPR: 90
R+489922    TAHBILK GRENACHE/SHIRAZ/MOURVÈDRE    Nagambie Lakes, Central Victoria    2017    $22.95    MVC/QPR: 89
R+ 11986    QUEENSTON MILE RED    VQA Niagara Peninsula    2016    $25  MVC/QPR: 89
R+73817    RUTHERFORD RANCH CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Napa Valley    2016    $39.95
MVC/QPR: 90
R+533711    PENDULUM CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Columbia Valley    2017    $24.95 MVC/QPR: 89
R+129353    THE CHOCOLATE BLOCK    WO Swartland    2018    $39.95     MVC/QPR: 90 R+251645    LA FERME DU MONT PREMIÈRE CÔTE CÔTES DU RHÔNE    AP    2018    $20.95    MVC/QPR: 89
R+704908    E. GUIGAL CROZES-HERMITAGE    AC    2017    $35.95     MVC/QPR: 89
R+14002    BISCARDO AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA    DOCG    2015    $43.95 MVC/QPR: 90
 
 
SOME NEW WINES RECEIVED THIS MONTH FOR SAMPLING AND TASTING: --
 
9.Westcott Vineyards Estate Chardonnay 2018 VQA Niagara Escarpment $29.99 winery, licensee:  much like Lillias but with oak overtones. This Estate wine has had full MLF, 100% wild yeast, barrel fermentation, and French oak aging for 9 months (20% new, 40% one fill). Two different clones were used (95, 96), and the results show a typical Westcott feature of orchard fruit with some tropicality concentrated notes contributed by the oak aging' leading to a slight citric finish. Still too young, lay it down – or taste it (as I did) over a stretch of time. A good first course wine since the oak appears in the background as grace notes. 12.5% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
10.Westcott Vineyards Reserve Chardonnay 2018 VQA Vinemount Ridge $44.99 winery:
11.Westcott Vineyards Block 76 Chardonnay 2018 VQA Vinemount Ridge $44.99 Wine Club:
this is a great exercise in comparative horizontal values. The Block 76 is new this year, made for the first time as an exclusive for the Westcott Wine Club. Differences are notable but subtle. Both labels are elegant Burgundian-styled wines, with virtually the same winemaking of full malolactic fermentation and wild yeast, but Block 76 has limited lees stirring. Both are barrel fermented and aged for 10 months in French oak, but Block 76 has more new oak than the Reserve. Block 76 is 12.8% ABV; Reserve is 12.5% ABV. Block 76 has slightly higher total acidity. Chardonnay clones 95 and 96 were used in the Reserve; Chardonnay clone 76 was used in, well, Block 76. But both had strong whiffs of pineapple and butter on the nose. The proof is in the pudding: a tasting over several days showed a more "complex basket" of medium-toned flavours for the Block 76, which was ultimately (and given that it is the same price) my choice of the two. The wines got better as they were exposed to more air over a week; new bottles should really be laid down for a few more years. Soft elegance and incipient balance are keystones here in the long, lingering finish. Also, do not overchill: it just mutes the flavours of layers of fruit and wood. Quality/Price rating for the Westcott Reserve is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures. Quality/Price rating for the Westcott Block 76 is 93+ points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
12.Henry of Pelham Chardonnay Speck Family Reserve 2018 VQA Short Hills Bench +616466, $29.95 Vintages June 27: Grapes come from their oldest estate vineyards (beginning 1988), hand-picked. Barrel fermented in French oak with a portion in 3000L foudres, and then barrel aged for 8 – 10 months in a mix of new and older barrels. This continues the tradition of Burgundian elegance. Expect some ripeness, balance of oaking and fruit, integrated style in place.  Wood integration produces some creaminess in the finish. 13% ABV, cork closure. Definitely needs another year – or more – in bottle in order to bring out the nuances. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
13.Baron de Hoen Gewurztraminer Reserve 2017 Alsace, +377721 Vintages $19.95 July 11: from around Beblenheim area, cool fermentation with typical gewurz tones of spices, lychee, roses. 13.5% ABV. Best as aperitif, or with fragrant cheeses, spicy foods. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
14.Gerard Bertrand Terroir Picpoul de Pinet 2019 AOP Picpoul de Pinet Languedoc, +13000, $17.95 Vintages July 25: from between Narbonne and Montpellier, just north of the Mediterranean. Affordable tastiness from the piquepoul grape, 13% ABV, twist top. Expect white floral and mineral tones, with medium acidity, some citrus notes and honey on the finish. One to go up against pinot grigio (but it is better than PG). Best with shellfish or eels rather than sipping. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
15.McPink Blended Scotch Whisky and Port Cask Finish, $59.95 700 ml bottle. Vintages +12248: McPink is so-called because it has been matured in a Port-wood cask giving it a pink tinge. The tech sheet says it is a blend of 16 single malts (60%) and Edinburgh grain whisky (40%). It's a sweeter and fruitier spirit, made to compete with rums and gins in the "neat" and "soda" market. There's a nose of stewed red fruit such as strawberry plus some mocha elements, and the redness persists on the palate and on the finish. Some herbal complexity makes this a real treat: why mix it? Of course, as a blended whisky, you can, but why bother?  Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
16.Featherstone Estate Winery Canadian Oak Chardonnay 2018 VQA Niagara Peninsula $21.95 +149302 Vintages May: one of my faves, and occasionally an LTO at under $20. Over the years it has simply gotten better as the grapevines have matured. Wild indigenous yeast is used. Good mid-tone oaky component (it is very easy to say it is mid-way between French and US oak) from the use of nearby Canadian oak trees. 10% new oak, 90% 1 to 5 year old. Terrific ripe orchard fruit aromas and palate. Plus vanillin and cream after the mid-palate leading to citric food-friendly finish. Needs more time for balancing, but then at that time it will be awesome. 13.2% ABV. Only 0.26 g/L residual sugar. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
17.Featherstone Estate Winery Four Feathers 2019 VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 +341586 August 22 and Dec 12: a summer social sipper or quaffer, combining 50% riesling and 40% chardonnay with 8% sauvignon blanc and 2% gewurztraminer – all highly aromatic grapes. Stainless steel fermentation. Typical fruit flavours to be found include pineapple, melon, lemon, some mango, and some sweet parts of citric tones near the finish. 12.1% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
18.Featherstone Estate Winery Black Sheep Riesling 2018 VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 +80234 Vintages Essential: more in the Mosel mode than Rhine wine, this delicious sipper is loaded with a nose of citrus highlights (lemon, lime, grapefruit) evolving to orchard fruit on the mid-palate with some minerality and a long lean-ish finish which also makes it nifty food wine for Asiatic dishes of all sorts. Medium body but not dry. Suitable for aging, to get that "petrol" character. 10.1% ABV. RS 20 g/L. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
19.Featherstone Estate Winery Cabernet Franc 2018 VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 +64618 Vintages Essential: a blend  of 86% cabernet franc and 14% merlot. 100% US oak was used – 25% new, balance in 1 to 4 year old barrels. Full malolactic fermentation. Medium-bodied with an assortment of berries, plums and cherries. Long, long finish showing tart-ish food-loving acid balances. Should go well with BBQ or other fatty meats. Keep for another few years (I tasted it daily) or do a double-decant. 12.7% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
20.Featherstone Estate Winery Red Tail Merlot 2018 VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 +131540 Vintages October 17 (May 30 is the Vintages release date for the 2017 vintage): Merlot is still recovering from its dissing by Pinot Noir in the movie "Sideways". But a lot of wineries are still making it. David Johnson the winemaker has here produced a delightfully fruity but dryish (RS 1.4 g/L) drop that is also affordable. Aged 10 months in French oak, 100% malolactic fermentation. Expect black fruit cherry-berry complexity, headed by black currant. Both a patio sipper and a food wine, and ready now for current drinking and accompanying any kind of comfort food. 12.4% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
May we all have 2020 vision.
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Saturday, May 23, 2020

* THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS.....

...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text while keeping the focus tight. Some magazines will reissue popular or classic recipes in an "easy" format. Here are some recent "re-editions"...
 
 
9.MELTED CHEESE (Ryland Peters Small, 2019, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-78879-164-9 $14.95 USD hardbound) is a publisher's book of collected recipes from the RPS stable of writers. Its sub-title deftly summarizes it: "gloriously gooey recipes from fondue to grilled cheese and pasta bake to potato gratin". Classics include Swiss fondue and French onion soup. The seventy recipes are from (mostly) Laura Washburn, Hannah Miles, Lizzie Kamenetzky, and 13 others. The contents include breads, pastas, veggies, dips, and soups. A nice collection of melted cheese foods. The book could have been improved if it also used more metric in the recipes, or at least had a metric conversion chart. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
10.MODERN FLEXITARIAN; plant-inspired recipes you can flex to add fish, meat, or dairy (DK Books, 2020, 256 pages, ISBN 978-1-4654-9246-3 $30 USD hardback) originated with DK Books in Australia in 2019. This is the North American edition. The preps are taken from ten other DK cookbooks which deal with healthy non-meat foods. The opening chapter was created by Lucy Taylor and gives the lay of the land: definitions, balanced diet, pantry, swaps, and more. In the book, the stress is on using plant-based preps with the option of adding any or all of fish, meat or dairy. So for the three bean paella, there are instructions on how to use or add fish. For the baked falafel with pickled red onions, how to make it with lamb. For the masala chickpea nachos, how to add cooked chopped chicken OR use a soy mozzarella cheese. There's a good section on simple swaps, where dairy milk substitutes can be soy, almond, coconut, oat, and rice; cheese can be swapped with nutritional yeast or nut cheeses; honey can be swapped with agave nectar, rice malt syrup or maple syrup; and eggs can be swapped with aquafaba, chia seeds and flax seeds. Meat and seafood can be replaced by tofu, tempeh and seitan. Cooking techniques need not change. The book could have been improved if it had also used metric in the recipes, or at least had a metric conversion chart. Quality/price rating: 89.
 
 
 
11.DELICIOUS SOUPS; fresh & hearty soups for every occasion (Ryland, Peters & Small, 2013, 2020, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-78879-196-0, $19.95 USD hard covers) is by Belinda Williams, founder of the Yorkshire Party Company (events and catering) and the Yorkshire Provender. She's been busy designing soups for the latter. There are about 60 preps here, arranged by style of soup: hearty, smooth and creamy, special occasion, and global flavours. Her chickpea soup is a Moroccan harira and a chickpea chicken tagine. There is no pho or miso. But there is a nifty sunchoke soup with sorrel and sage, and a field mushroom soup or a creamy coconut and lamb soup. This book could have been improved if it also used more metric in the recipes, or at least had a metric conversion chart. Quality/price rating: 86.
 
 
 
12.THE PLANT KITCHEN: 100 easy recipes for vegan beginners (Ryland, Peters & Small, 2020, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-78879-181-6 $19.95 USD hardbound) has been edited by Miriam Catley from recipes by other writers in the RPS stable. It is a good introductory book, arranged by course (breakfast through snacks, soups, sides, suppers, and entertaining a crowd – finishing with desserts. Preps come from 16 different writers, but mainly from Dunja Gulin (30), Jenna Zoe, Nicola Gaines, and Liz Franklin. This book could have been improved if it also used more metric in the recipes, or at least had a metric conversion chart. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
13.THE MODERN TAGINE COOKBOOK: delicious recipes for Moroccan one-pot meals (Ryland Peters & Small, 2019, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-78879-143-4 $14.95 USD hardbound) is by Ghillie Basan. They were chosen by editor Julia Charles from Basan's four previous tagine books: Flavours of Morocco, Tagine, Tagines and Couscous, and Vegetarian Tagines and Couscous. So here are 60 great preps for Moroccan casseroles that include any of meat (lamb, beef, chicken, sausage), fish and seafood, vegetable (lentil, bean) or vegan options (cream-free, of course). And there are recipes for couscous and salads. If you do not have a tagine, then a Dutch oven, Instant pot, Slow cooker, or just a tin-foiled covered baking dish can do – either stovetop or oven. [but this is not explained in the book]. The book could have been improved if it also used metric in the recipes, or at least had a metric conversion chart. Quality/price rating: 87
 

May we all have 2020 vision.
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Tuesday, May 12, 2020

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for MAY 16, 2020

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES:  under/over $20 for MAY 16, 2020
 
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at http://www.deantudor.com since 1994.
 
These notes for good wines available through  LCBO Vintages (on a bi-weekly basis)  can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca  or at  http://www.deantudor.com No winery can buy their way into – or out of – this publication.
 
Scores are a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, e.g. a Southern Rhone would taste like a Southern Rhone) and QPR (Quality/Price Ratio value in the marketplace above or below its price).
 
Currently, the wine media have no access to the 50 or so tasting samples usually provided to us in the LCBO lab on a fortnightly basis. This will go on until at least the June 13 release. HOWEVER,  the wine media will still have access to the advance spreadsheet of the wines to be released. So I know what is to be released and when. SOME (but not many) of these wines I have recently tasted since January 2020 or so, and I can comfortably recommend them based on prior sampling.
 
Under $20
=========
Sparkling+369074    BERNARD-MASSARD CUVÉE DE L'ÉCUSSON PINOT NOIR BRUT SPARKLING ROSÉ    Traditional method, Luxembourg        $19.95      MVC/QPR: 88
Rose+219840    CHÂTEAU BELLEVUE LA FORÊT ROSÉ    AP Fronton    2019    $14.95 MVC/QPR:  89
W+106831    ANNE DE LAWEISS COLLECTION PINOT GRIS    AC Alsace    2017    $19.95
MVC/QPR: 89
W+369850    KIM CRAWFORD PINOT GRIS    Marlborough, South Island    2019    $19.95       MVC/QPR:  89
R+548867    CASA SANTOS LIMA COLOSSAL RESERVA    Vinho Regional Lisboa    2016    $15.95     MVC/QPR:  90
R+536532    CANTINE DUE PALME SANGAETANO PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIA    DOP    2018    $17.95     MVC/QPR:  89
R+11454    CHÂTEAU LABESSE    AC Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux    2016    $17.95     MVC/QPR:  89
R+91660    NUGAN ESTATE COOKOOTHAMA DARLINGTON POINT CABERNET/MERLOT    New South Wales, Australia    2016    $17.95     MVC/QPR: 91
R+444703    MONTGRAS ANTU CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Sustainable, DO Maipo Valley    2017    $18.95    MVC/QPR: 89
R+161141    PASO CREEK CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Paso Robles    2017  $19.95    MVC/QPR: 89
 
Over $20
=========
Sparkling+227009    ANGELS GATE ARCHANGEL BRUT SPARKLING CHARDONNAY    Traditional method, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment 2014    $29.95 MVC/QPR: 89
W+566026    CAVE SPRING CSV RIESLING    Cave Spring Vineyard, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment    2017    $29.95     MVC/QPR: 90
W+418319    DUCKHORN CHARDONNAY    Napa Valley    2017    $49.95    MVC/QPR: 89
R+922054    TENUTE SILVIO NARDI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO    DOCG     2013    $46.95    MVC/QPR:  89
R+12630    MUD HOUSE PINOT NOIR    Certified sustainable, Central Otago, South Island    2018    $24.95    MVC/QPR: 88
R+959338    RUTHERFORD HILL MERLOT    Napa Valley    2015    $39.95    MVC/QPR: 89
 
 
May we all have 2020 vision.
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Sunday, May 10, 2020

* THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...

 
  ...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text while keeping the focus tight. Some magazines will reissue popular or classic recipes in an "easy" format. Here are some recent "re-editions"...
 
 
 
8.ENTERTAINING WITH MARY BERRY (DK, 2010, 2014, 2020, 352 pages, ISBN 978-0-4654-8935-7, $27 USD hard covers) is by Mary Berry, a UK cookbook author with more than 80 books to her credit. Lucy Young is the co-author; she's been Berry's assistant for more than 25 years and has helped to develop the recipes for all of Berry's books. It was originally published in 2010 as "Cook Up a Feast", but in this second revised edition, it is "Entertaining with Mary Berry". The price has even come down a bit, and there are 16 more pages. This is a cookbook for entertaining the larger crowd, usually to serve six or to serve 12. It tries to answer stressful questions such as "what can I make for so many people?", or "How can I keep the food hot?" and "Will there be enough?" They begin with the primer material, followed by specific topics such as hors d'oeuvre, special mains, potluck parties, Italian feasts, buffets, backyards, snacks, desserts. The setting is important, so you'll need to concentrate on lighting, flowers, music, themes, and the like. Still, it is hard to think about actually making party finger food when there are many, many frozen versions at the supermarket. Asparagus, goat cheese and prosciutto phyllo rolls do stand out, but just about everything else mentioned here in this section can be purchased. You might be better off spending your time slicing and chopping fresh foods and then rely on the purchased goods. Party foods are just too exhausting (been there, done that myself). Everything else is a different story, but it
still takes a lot of work. Preps are listed as service for six or for 12, with separate columns of ingredients for six or 12, a good idea. Most everything can be made in advance by several hours, with a minimum amount of finishing. The older editions used to have 24 menus with timelines for the themes. The book could have been improved if it also used more metric in the recipes, or at least had a metric conversion chart. Do try Puy lentil and pearl barley soup; fennel and smoked salmon tartlets; hot baked trout with tomato and basil salsa; smokey sausage cassoulet; eggplant baked with feta and
chickpeas; roasted veggie risotto; toffee pudding with warm toffee sauce; and/or summer berry tart. Quality/Price Rating: 87.
 
9.CRAFT PIZZA (Ryland Peters & Small, 2016, 2020, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-78879-194-6, $19.95 USD hardcovers) is by Maxine Clark, prolific UK food writer and cooking coach/teacher. Here, she covers mainly "classic" pizza, Sicilian, sourdough, calzone and focaccia made at home. It's a revision of her earlier 2016 book which has the same title. So she's also got pizzette and small bites. It is pretty thorough, with a primer on equipment and flours. About 80+ recipes in all, but no doughs that are gluten-free. Try focaccia with crispy kale with whipped ricotta, roasted garlic and chipotle; rolled pesto and olive and garlic bread; rustic country pie; torta reggiano; and potato and mozzarella calzone. The book could have been improved if it had also used more metric in the recipes, or at least had a metric conversion chart. Quality/price rating: 86
 
 
 
10.DELICIOUSLY MESSY FOOD; 65 recipes for ribs, wings, burgers, hot dogs, and other lip-smacking foods ((Ryland Peters & Small, 2014, 2020, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-78879-193-9, $19.95 USD hard covers) is by Carol Hilker, a food writer in San Francisco who has written several cookbooks for Ryland Peters & Small. It was originally published in 2014 but now has some additional material. Chicken wings are perfectly adaptable to a huge range of dips and sauces, marinades and glazes. So any BBQ book with a lot of these savoury methods is useful. The same for ribs and other finger foods that call for constant "wiping of the hands". This food is perfect for any in-house sports watching, and here YOU are in charge of the better sauces and the better meats. So there are honey-fried chicken, pulled pork sandwiches, pretzel buns, blueberry cotton candy pancakes, etc. The range also includes bowls and some recipes for homemade versions of take-out food. Remarkable is the fried oysters and grits prep. Desserts and beverages are also included (such as honey-vanilla root beer float).
The book could have been improved if it also used more metric in the recipes, or at least had a metric conversion chart. Quality/price rating: 84.
 
 
 
11.FISH (Ryland, Peters & Small, 2015, 2020 176 pages, ISBN 978-1-78879-198-4, $19.95 USD hard covers) is by Mat Follas, a UK chef/owner and winner of Masterchef (BBC) in 2009. It has now been revised for 2020 expectations. This set is organized by fish type: salmon & tuna, freshwater fish, small fish, round fish, flat fish, exotic fish, with crustaceans, squid and octopus occupying the last quarter of the book. There's material on sustainability, stocks and soups, and drinks to match the food. The 80 recipes come loaded with tips. Preparations have their ingredients listed in mainly avoirdupois measurements with some metric, but there is no overall table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.
 
 
 
12.VEGETABLES (Ryland Peters & Small, 2016, 2020, 176 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-709-6, $24.95 USD hardbound) is by Mat Follas, Masterchef UK winner in 2009. It was first published in 2016 as "Vegetable Perfection". As a basic book, it covers some of the more modern approaches to vegetarian cookery found in restaurants: using the newest cooking techniques and interesting ingredients to boost texture, add flavour, and thus make the veggie stand out on its own by being its own centrepiece. He's got 100 preps for roots, bulbs, shoots and stems. The book is arranged this way, with other chapters for juices, brassicas, belladonnas, pulses, and fungi. Some of the preps are vegan. There's an interesting pantry (here, a store cupboard) and some substitutions. There are resource pages for both the UK and the US. You could check out artichoke frittata, goat's cheese with dandelion sauce, Bloody Mary soup, or runner beans with eggplant pasta. The book could have been improved if it also used more metric in the recipes (why use teaspoons?), or at least had a metric conversion chart. Quality/price rating: 87
 
 
13.LEMONS AND LIMES (Ryland Peters & Small, 2017, 2020, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-78879-200-4 $14.95 USD hardbound) is by well-known Ursula Ferrigno, who has written over 18 cookery books most emphasizing Mediterranean foods. This is the 2020 edition. She's been on UK TV quite a lot, does restaurant consultations, and runs classes at all Sur La Table stores. These 75 preps emphasize the freshness and vivacity of lemons and limes, with one excursion to pink grapefruit. The range is from small bites through soups/salads, meat/poultry, fish/seafood, veggies, and sweets plus drinks. Lemon mushroom arancini, pork dumplings in lime-leaf broth, spaghettini with calamari and lemons, and a smashing gin and tonic cake with lemon syrup. The book could have been improved if it also used more metric in the recipes (tablespoons and teaspoons are in Imperial, or at least had a metric conversion chart. Quality/price rating: 87.

May we all have 2020 vision.
Chimo! www.deantudor.com