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Friday, May 30, 2014

The Event: Portfolio tasting of 30.50 Imports.

The Date and Time: Monday, May 5, 2014  Noon to 4 Pm
The Event: Portfolio tasting of 30.50 Imports.
The Venue: Canoe
The Target Audience: wine trade, clients, media
The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available through consignment or private order.
The Quote/Background: There were about 60 wines listed, including the rare Chateau Musar, Pearl Morissette from Ontario, and some dynamite sherries from Bodegas Tradicion.
The Wines: I did not try every wine. Prices are licensee.
 
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Valle de Junco Lapa dos Gaivoes Eschola 2008, $25.95
-Sidonio de Sousa Garrafeira 2009, $39.95
-Belem's Madeira Wine Lda 10 Year Old Verdelho NV, $54.95
-Bodegas Tradicion 12 Year Old Fino NV, $55
-Bodegas Tradicion 30 Year Old Amontillado NV, $100
-Peter Zemmer Schiava Gentile 2013 DOC, $13.95
-Il Paradiso di Frassina Brunello di Montalcino 2008, $59.95
-Dom. Michel Mallard & Fils Aloxe-Corton 1er cru Les Valozieres 2009, $74.95
-Chateau Barrejat Seduction 2011 Madiran, $21.95
-Chateau Musar Red 2001, $59.95
 
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Sidonio de Sousa Bairrada Tinto Reserva 2008, $20.95
-Porta da Teira Ninfa Rose 2013, $17.95
-Bodegas Amador Garcia Penagudo Blanco 2012 Viura, $13.95
-Bodegas Medrani Irazu Crianza 2010 Rioja, $17.95
-Bodegas Tradicion 20 Year Old Pedro Ximenez NV, $110
-Peter Zemmer Muller Thurgau 2013 DOC, $19.95
-Cantina di Venoso Aglianico del Vulture Vignali 2011, $15.957
-Castello di Verduno Barolo Massara 2006, $64.9577
-Fattoria Casabianca Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva 2010, $24.50
-Castello La Leccia Chianti Classico 2010, $24.95
-Castello La Leccia Chianti Classico Riserva Bruciagna 2009, $34.95
-Il Paradiso di Frassina Gea Sant'Antimo Rosso 2009, $49.95
-Musella Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva 2008, $65.95
-Pearl Morissette Chardonnay Cuvee 19th Street 2010 VQA, $29.50
-Pearl Morissette Chardonnay Cuvee 19th Street 2011 VQA, $29.50
-Pearl Morissette Cabernet Franc 2011 VQA, $32.08
-Dom. Michel Mallard & Fils Ladoix Le Clos Royer 2010, $49.95
-Chapuy Carte Verte Brut Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Champagne, $49.95 [half-bottles are only half the price, $24.95]
-Chateau Barrejat Cuvee des Vieux Ceps 2010 Madiran, $24.95 [old vines]
-Chateau Musar Hochar Pere et Fils Red 2008, $29.95
-Roots Run Deep Winery Educated Guess Chardonnay 2011 Napa, $23.95
 
*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Porta da Teira Ninfa Branco Sauvignon Blanc-Fernnao Pires 2012, $17.95
-Bodegas Briego Reserva 2009 Ribera del Duero, $29.95
-Celler Cesca Vicent Red 2011 Priorat, $21.95
-Peter Zemmer Pinot Grigio La Lot IGT 2013, $13.95
-Castello di Verduno Barbaresco Rabaja 2008, $59.95
-Fattoria Casabianca Coppai Chianti Colli Senesi 2012, $12.95
-Chateau Musar Jeune Red 2011, $20.95
-Roots Run Deep Winery Educated Guess Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Napa, $26.95
 
The Food: oysters, charcuterie, cheese, pates, quails eggs, breads.
The Downside: the controversial Pearl Morissette Riesling Cuvee Black Ball was missing.
The Upside: a chance to connect with some wine makers who were present.
The Contact Person: info@3050imports.com;
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 90.
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Thursday, May 29, 2014

World Chardonnay Day in Toronto: May 22, 2014

The Date and Time: Thursday, May 22, 2014 2Pm to 5PM

The Event: World Chardonnay Day

The Venue: Allen's (patio)

The Target Audience: wine trade

The Availability/Catalogue: domestic wines from the wineries, imports via agency licensee programmes.

The Quote/Background: this is a sort of preview of the Rebirth of Cool Climate Chardonnay – one world, one grape, one weekend (July 18-20, 2014). Tickets are available at coolchardonnay.org; the event is in Niagara. 55 winemakers will be present, as well as chefs and food.

The Wines:
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Southbrook Whimsy! "Damy" Chardonnay 2011 VQA Niagara biodynamic

-Speck Family Reserve Chardonnay 2010 VQA Niagara

-Jean Leon Vinya Gigi Chardonnay 2012 Spain

-Sumaridge Chardonnay 2011 South Africa [my fave]

-Creation Wine Estate Chardonnay 2012 South Africa

-Flat Rock Chardonnay Rusty Shed 2011 VQA Niagara

-13th Street Sandstone Vineyard Chardonnay 2010 VQA Niagara

-Cambria Chardonnay 2012 Katherine's Vineyard Santa Maria Valley California

-Murphy-Goode Chardonnay 2012 Santa Barbara

-Cave Spring CSV Chardonnay 2011 VQA Niagara

-Cave Spring Estate Chardonnay 2012 VQA Niagara

-Chateau des Charmes Chardonnay 2012 Paul Bosc Vineyard VQA Niagara

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Trivento Golden Reserve Chardonnay 2012 Mendoza

-Concha y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Chardonnay 2012 Chile

-Laroche Chablis St. Martin [Chardonnay]

-Southbrook Triomphe Chardonnay Organic 2012 VQA Niagara

-Southbrook Poetica Chardonnay Biodynamic 2011 VQA Niagara

-Sperling Vineyards Estate Bottled Chardonnay 2012 VQA Okanagan

-Flat Rock Estate Chardonnay 2010 VQA Niagara

-Catena Chardonnay Mendoza

-Catena Alta Chardonnay Mendoza

-13th Street June's Vineyard Chardonnay 2012 VQA Niagara

-Torres Milmanda Chardonnay 2011 Spain

-Jean Leon 3055 Chardonnay 2013 Spain

-Torres Gran Vina Sol [Chardonnay] 2012 Spain

-Gerard Bertrand Domaine de l'Aigle Chardonnay 2011 Limoux

-Normal Hardie County Chardonnay 2012 VQA PEC

-Normal Hardie Niagara Chardonnay 2012 VQA Niagara

-Clos du Bois Calcaire Chardonnay 2011 California

-PlumpJack "Adaptation" Chardonnay 2011 California

-Malivoire Small Lot Chardonnay 2012 VQA Niagara

-Malivoire Mottiar Chardonnay 2011 VQA Niagara

-Bachelder Chardonnay 2011 VQA Niagara

-Bachelder Chardonnay 2012 VQA Niagara

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Grant Burge Summers Chardonnay 2012 Australia

-The Dreaming Tree Chardonnay 2012 California

-Robert Mondavi Private Selection Chardonnay 2010

-Robert Mondavi Chardonnay 2012

-Kim Crawford Unoaked Chardonnay 2013 New Zealand

-Flat Rock Chardonnay Unplugged 2012 VQA Niagara

-Malivoire Moira Vineyard Chardonnay 2010 VQA Niagara

-Chateau des Charmes Chardonnay Musque 2012 VQA Niagara


The Food: nothing for awhile, then crackers and finally some salmon canapes.

The Downside: for awhile, there was no list of wines. There were also additions and withdrawals, for "cool" also means "laid back".

The Upside: There were 21 domestic and 21 imported wines (mostly New World) poured

The Contact Person: trish@coolchardonnay.org

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 87.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Wednesday, May 28, 2014

BBQ, Grilling cookbooks galore !!

LOW & SLOW; the art and technique of braising, BBQ, and slow roasting (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2014, 246 pages, ISNM 978-1-118-10591-7, $19.99 US hard covers) is by Robert Briggs (professor) and the Culinary Institute of America. The basic principles here concern low heat and slow cooking times for prepping tough but flavourful cuts of meat. It tells one how to make the most of every cut of meat, any time of the year. There are chapters on homemade rubs and sauces, plus some accompanying sides to prepare. It is arranged by the three techniques, and each chapter begins with a master recipe, with all the techniques fully illustrated and explained. Under braising, there are two recipes for each prep, one using a slow cooker, the other a stovetop or oven braise. Under BBQ, there are extensive notes on prepping and regional styles. The emphasis throughout is on international cuisine influences. It is a good thorough book, with plenty of techniques illustrated and good suggestions for sides. Just under 100 preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are tables of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: beginning cooks, and men.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: braised pulled pork BBQ sandwiches; Korean-style braised short ribs; beef braised in beer and onions; braised oxtail; Moroccan chicken tagine; Eastern North Carolina BBQ pork butt; spit-roasted garlic and lime chicken.
The downside to this book: could have had more recipes.
The upside to this book: very compact.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.
 
 
8.SOUTHWEST DUTCH OVEN (Gibbs Smith, 2014, 128 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-3635-9, $15.99 US spiral bound) is by George and Carolyn Dumler, both seasoned Dutch oven cooks preparing food for large crowds. They have qualified for the World Championships every year since 2009. Indeed, some of these preps here are reprinted from cookbooks of the 2010-2012 World Championship Cook-Off Dutch Oven Recipes. There's a primer, and then the book is arranged by course or ingredient such as chiles, sauces, sides, mains, breads, and desserts. There is also a menu for a big Southwestern Thanksgiving, with nine recipes. This must be the tenth book published this year on Dutch ovens: a really popular item?
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is a table of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: Dutch oven users.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: mashed potatoes; turkey with chile garlic marinade; turkey breast with chipotle gravy; chorizo and pistachio stuffing; corn pudding; cheddar jalapeno twists; tequila cranberry compote; pumpkin pinon bread; and pecan chile pie.
The downside to this book: ripped out pages are easy (spiral binding)
The upside to this book: spiral bound, lies flat.
Quality/Price Rating: 86.
 
 
 
12.MARINADES; the quick-fix way to turn everyday food into exceptional fare, with 400 recipes (Harvard Common Press, 2014; dist. T.Allen, 320 pages, ISBN 978-1-55832-827-3, $17.95 US paper covers) is by Lucy Vaserfirer, recipe developer and cookbook author. This is a great idea for a book, as an alternative to a slow-cooker. With the right marinade, you can dress up meats or veggies in the morning, put the food in the fridge for the day, and finish off the plate at night with a broil, grill, microwave, or saute. Of course, for meat like beef, this only works on the softer textured cuts. The heavy duty stewing meats may be a tad too tough for quick cooking. The 200 marinades here are vinegar-based, oil-based, fruit-based, milk-based, and alcohol-based. There is certainly something for every day; each marinade comes with a recipe that shows one way to use it.  More than half the "suggested use" recipes are for grilled dishes and BBQs, but they can be adapted for indoor use. She opens with the marinades, in separate chapters for herbs, spices, citrus, tomato and the like. Then she moves on to different cuisines, such as southwestern marinades, South American marinades, European, Chines-Japanese-Korean, Southeast Asia, Indian, African, Caribbean, and even "sweet" dessert marinades.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: those willing to experiment or looking for more jazzy flavours.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: Buffalo wing marinade; balsamic-soy marinade; grilled portobellos; cranberry-cider marinade; teriyaki marinade.
The downside to this book: I just wish that there was something that can be done for the bully beef and the mutton, and other tough cuts of meat, that can happen within the 12 hour spread of AM and PM in the fridge.
The upside to this book: there are two indexes, one to the marinades and another to "suggested use".
Quality/Price Rating: 89.
 
 
14.FIRE & SMOKE (Clarkson Potter, 2014, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0-7704-3438-0, $24.99 US soft covers) is by Chris Lilly, executive chef and partner of Big Bob Gibson Bar-B-Q. Their competition cooking team has won 10 World BBQ Championships, six other world titles, and other competitions. Lilly has also written Big Bob Gibson's BBQ Book. It is just one of many new BBQ books unleashed this season (see below for others), by competition champion celebrities and cookbook authors. Each, of course, has pitmaster secrets and also reflects as a Good Ol' Boy. Lilly combines the speed of grilling with smoky flavours of low-and-slow BBQ. No special equipment required: just the hot grill of smoldering coals and a rack or pan. There are 100 preps here, covering BBQ oysters, lamb ribs, grilled pizza, smoked pork belly confit, and cowboy ribeye. Sides, apps, salads, desserts, and cocktails are also here. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Profusely illustrated. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
15.VIRGIL'S BARBECUE ROAD TRIP COOKBOOK; the best barbecue from around the country without ever leaving your backyard (St. Martin's Press, 2014, 335 pages, ISBN 978-1-250-04109-8, $29.99 US hard covers) is by Neal Corman, executive chef of Alicart Restaurant Group, with freelancer Chris Peterson as the focusing food writer. Virgil's has been doing BBQ since 1994 in New York City, with ideas from US BBQ country of Texas, North Carolina, Kansas City and Memphis.  Here there are preps for beef (Texas brisket, chicken fried steak, burnt ends), pork (baby ribs, pulled pork, slow ham), and chicken (pulled, fried, jerked). No lamb. It's arranged by course, from apps to desserts, with suggested menus (social gatherings, game day, afternoon grill fest, fish fry, Sunday brunch – 7 in all). There are also beer notes. These are recipes modified for home use from the restaurants which use 1400 pound smokers. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.
 
 
16.WILEY'S CHAMPIONSHIP BBQ (Gibbs Smith, 2014, 216 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-3631-1, $19.99 US spiral bound) is by Wiley McCrary, a former Atlanta BBQ caterer, now a BBQ pitmaster champion and owner of Wiley's Championship BBQ restaurant in Savannah, Georgia. He's a co-author here with his wife Janet and Amy Paige Condon, associate editor of Savannah magazine and food writer (she's also co-authored The Back in the Day Bakery Cookbook). It is all done with the engaging subtitle "secrets that old men take to the grave". It is thorough and comprehensive, with pix of techniques. The spiral binding in a plus, for the recipes can lie flat on the counter or by the BBQ. There's the primer on smoking and BBQ, calculating, sauces (he also has a line he sells), and a section on how to use this cookbook, including getting a notebook for your own revisions. He's got a beef tri-tip, a smoked leg of lamb, pulled pork, deep-fried turkey, smoked and stuffed chicken breasts, and even a seafood casserole. Sides and accompaniments include fried pickles, black-eyed pea hummus, grilled peaches, and a bread pudding with bourbon. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is a table of metric equivalents on the inside back cover.
Quality/price rating: 88.
 
 
 
25.MAN MADE MEALS; the essential cookbook for guys (Workman Publishing, 2014; distr. T. Allen, 631 pages, ISBN 978-0-7611-6644-3, $24.95 US paper covers) is by Steven Raichlen, author of seven grilling books (one of which is the award-winning Barbecue! Bible which I reviewed in 1998, with its 500 BBQ recipes) and host of the PBS series Barbecue University and Primal Grill. The book concentrates on guy food: heavy, substantial flavours, lots of protein and starches. Veggies are mainly chiles, beans, corn, potatoes, mushrooms, kale, cauliflower, and collard greens, although he does have a (downplayed) salad chapter. The 300 preps here stress that knowledge is power and that all men have an inner chef who loves showing off that power. Like in the wine world, Raichlen advises kicking butt (in the introduction)-- whatever sells the book which is being billed as a cookbook, textbook, and guidebook to male cooking. He also manages to pull in material from Thomas Keller, Michael Pollan, and Mark Bittman, among others. The 17 food chapters embrace courses and meals, such as breakfast, sandwiches, pizza, breads, ribs, chili, soups, and a short sweet chapter (rum and coke float, affogato, bourbon brown cow, Mexican chocolate pudding, bananas Foster). There are lots of lists and tables (male things) scattered throughout, plus an opening primer. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are tables of metric equivalents. I found some inconsistencies in the index, such as the matter of corn-flour-taco-tortilla. Quality/price rating: 89.
 
 
 
28.THE TEXAS FOOD BIBLE; from legendary dishes to new classics (Grand Central Life & Style, 2013, 2014; distr. Hachette, 256 pages, ISBN 978-1-4555-7430-8, $30 US hard covers) is by Dean Fearing, former chef at the Mansion on Turtle Creek and now at Fearing's. He's been a fave chef of mine for years; maybe it's his first name. Here he offers a history of Texas food through culinary experiences. He expands it all to the southwestern regional experience through such as Navajo fry bread, sweet potato spoonbread, enchiladas, and BBQ. It is a guide to regional grilling-smoking-braising, with additional recipes from other chefs. There is also material about local suppliers. He begins with a pantry, and moves through the courses of breakfast, brunch, apps, salads, mains, sides – with other chapters on the grill and BBQ. Good boldfacing of ingredient lists, as well as a list of sources. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Try poblano-mango-carmelized onion quesadillas with cilantro-lime-sour cream, or molasses-tabasco duck with smoked veggie dressing, or even smoked salmon tartare with roast jalapeno cream and roasted garlic. Innovative stuff. Quality/price rating: 89.
 
 
29.THE NOLAN RYAN BEEF & BARBECUE COOKBOOK; recipes from a Texas kitchen (Little Brown and Co., 2014; distr. Hachette, 172 pages, ISBN 978-0-316-24826-6, $25 US hard covers) is by baseball great Nolan Ryan and three others: JP Rosenthal (food and baseball writer), Cristobal Vazquez (executive chef at Texas Rangers Ballpark), and Charlie Bradbury (CEO of Nolan Ryan Beef). Texas BBQ is all about beef, so here it is: hamburgers, hot dogs, T-bones, rib-eyes, strip steaks, tenderloins, sirloin, roasts, ribs, brisket, flank steak, flat iron steak – plus some salads and sides and desserts. It is not Dean Fearing, but it is Texas and it is beef. The idea too is to pitch Texas beef, specifically Beefmaster cattle (half Brahman, quarter Hereford, quarter Shorthorn). So you can order it, at least in the USA, and try it out on the BBQ grill. He's got easy T-bone with soy and pineapple, slow-roasted prime rib with natural jus, beer-braised country ribs, and grilled balsamic flank steak. It is a good introduction to Texas beef, with many compelling recipes. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
 
 
30.SAUSAGE MAKING (Chronicle Books, 2014, 207 pages, ISBN 978-1-4521-0178-1, $35 US hard covers) is by Ryan Farr, author of Whole Beast Butchery, and owner of 4505 Meats, an artisanal meat company where he teaches butchery classes and makes sausages. Jessica Battilana is the focusing food writer. It is a basic book for home cooks, with the techniques skills and equipment needed for cooking/curing/smoking every type of sausage. The arrangement is by texture, with a section on coarse (chorizo, merguez, Italian), firm (linguica, Polish, bratwurst), soft (boudin noir, scrapple), smooth (bierwurst, bologna, wieners), and combination (duck confit and cherry terrine, headcheese). There is a major discussion of selecting meats and fats (including frog), techniques of grinding-mixing-stuffing-twisting, and cooking styles – most with photos. Typical preps of the 38 sausages here include those for goat sausage with peppers, turkey-apple-campari sausage, guinea hen and kimchee links, smoked trout and pork sausage, and the veal-sweetbread-morels en croute combo. Other recipes cover condiments and breads. There is a resources list and a picture of a side view of each sausage. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both US and metric measurements, along with ratio tables. Quality/price rating: 89.
 
 
34.TRUE FOOD; season, sustainable, simple, pure (Little,
Brown, 2012, 2104, 255 pages, ISBN 978-0-316-12940-4, $19 US
paper covers) is by Andrew Weil and Sam Fox, with Michael
Stebner. Weil is well-known for his books and columns on
alternative health practices and issue (including many food
recipes). He is partner with Sam Fox in the True Food
Kitchen chain. Stebner is the executive chef of these
restaurants. The work comes heavily endowed with log
rollers Alice Waters and Marion Nestle. This is the 2014
paperback reprint. It's a book based
on SLOFE principles (seasonal, local, organic, fast, and
easy); there are about 150 recipes adapted from the six
restaurant chain. The important thing you need to know
about Andrew Weil is that the guy is completely
trustworthy: he has impressed me for over 20 years. Other
than that, this is good food with plenty of explanations
from Weil and a pantry to start up. You cannot go wrong
here. There are good illustrations and sufficient white
space in the book's layout. The chapters follow a daily
meal, with breakfast, appetizers, salads, soups, mains,
pasta, veggies, desserts and drinks (only a few with
alcohol). This is a good book for the struggling dieter –
you will get your appetite sated. Dishes include chocolate-
banana tart, stir-fried long beans with citrus-sesame
sauce, bibimbap, bison umami burger, and halibut with
fingerling potatoes. There are no tables of nutritional
sources. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric
equivalents, which is a shame for international sales.
Quality/price rating: 88.
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Wednesday, May 21, 2014

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR MAY 24, 2014


WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR  MAY 24, 2014
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1994. My LCBO tastings are based on MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.
 
**** HALF-BOTTLE ALERT !! – Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Marlborough, +160085, $9.95 375 mL: an herbal savvy, just perfect for two glasses (two people) as a starter course wine, and well-priced. QPR: 90.
 
====?>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *UNDER* $20
 
Domaine Les Yeuses Les Epices Syrah 2011 Pays d'Oc, +177584, $14.95: it's back, but
another vintage, just as good as ever – even better. Value priced, great syrah hit of pepper, smoked meat, black fruit, garrigue, blackberries. Perfect accompaniment to horse meat. I've said virtually the same things about the last four times this has turned up in Vintages (the 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, and now 2011). 13.5% ABV. Up a dollar, but then so is everything else in life. QPR: 93.
 
====?>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *OVER* $20
 
E.Guigal Chateau d'Ampuis Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2007, +727503, $59.95.
 
 
TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1.Mission Hill Family Reserve Pinot Gris 2012 VQA Okanagan, +537076, $17.95: lively, lots of flavour for a pinot gris but very good MVC for that Alsatian-styled consistency. Cork finish, 13.5% ABV. QPR: 89.
2.Calamus Riesling 2012 VQA Vinemount Ridge, +158642, $16.95: immediate riesling hit on the nose, serve cool, so Mosel-like. Twist top, 11% ABV. QPR: 89.
3.Vineland Estates Chardonnay Musque 2011 VQA Niagara Escarpment, +996793, $17.95: flavourful, slightly grapey muskiness from the clonal character, floral for summer!! Cork finish. QPR: 89.
4.Yamhill Valley Vineyards Pinot Gris 2011 Willamette Valley Oregon, +366294, $17.95: a refreshing change, depth and flavour, twist top, quality wine with cooler climate orchard fruit and lemon drops. QPR: 89.
5.Beauvignac Picpoul de Pinet 2013 Coteaux du Languedoc, +350124, $13.95: fresh from last year's vintage, much like an upscale soave but less expensive, more expansive. QPR: 89.
 
TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1.Henry of Pelham Family Tree Red 2012 VQA Niagara, +247882, $18.95: quite a lot of character for a blend of Bordeaux varieties and shiraz, lots of flavour, great BBQ wine. 13.5% ABV. QPR: 89
2.La Casa del Rey Alta Vista Premium Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Mendoza, +129957, $15.95: quality in spades here, juicy, 14.5% ABV, North American appeal, but taut enough for food. QPR: 89.
3.Fabre Montmayou Reserva Malbec 2012 Mendoza, +261867, $15.95: another plummy, delicious fruit tones to go with food. 14.9% ABV. QPR: 89.
4.Luis Felipe Edwards Claro Magnolio Reserve Malbec 2011 Colchagua, +365932, $13.95: the Chileans are taking a crack at Malbec, this one has typical plummy value, 14% ABV, cork finish. QPR: 89.
5.Audacia Shiraz 2011 WO Stellenbosch, +366211, $13.95: a pretty good syrah in Euro mode, not in the shiraz style despite the label. Off-dry on palate, 14% ABV. QPR: 89.
6.Chateau Saint Esteve D'Uchaux Massif d'Uchaux Cotes du Rhone Villages 2010, +370189, $18.95: impressive southern Rhone, with a lot of syrah and aging behind it. Dark fruit, long length. QPR: 89.
7.Domaine Martin Plan de Dieu Cotes du Rhone Villages 2011, +370197, $19.95: very intense syrah component, 15% ABV. The best of the CdR Villages out today. Unfiltered smoke, with tar and all those other bad things like some brett. More savoury than fruity. QPR: 91.
 
VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10 markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.
 
1.Mike Weir Limited Edition Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2012, +367813, $24.95 retail.
2.Jean Pabiot & Fils Domaine des Fines Caillottes Pouilly-Fume 2012, +695908, $26.95.
3.Roger & Didier Raimbault Sancerre 2012, +82255, $27.95.
4.Albert Morot Beaune Les Teurons 1er Cru 2011, +902833, $59.95.
5.Lazzeretti Brunello di Montalcino 2007, +318352, $42.95.
6.F. Olazabal Meandro Do Vale Meao 2011 Douro, +244731, $24.95.
7.Cosme Palacio Reserva 2007 Rioja, +14662, $23.95.
8.Heredad de Baroja Gran Reserva 2004 Rioja, +276113, $24.95.
9.Jean Olivier Chateau d'Aqueria Tavel 2013, +319368, $21.95.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Sunday, May 18, 2014

THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...

...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text while keeping the focus tight. Some magazines will reissue popular or classic recipes in an "easy" format. Here are some recent "re-editions"...


28.TEA; history, terroirs, varieties. 2D ed (Firefly Books, 2014, 270 pages,
ISBN 978-1-77085-319-5, $24.95 CAD paper covers) is a heavily
illustrated compendium on non-herbal tea, rich in anti-oxidants and 
with proven medical benefits. It was originally published in French in
Quebec in 2009, and here is translated into English. The second edition reflects a general updating with more material on health benefits.   The four writers of this book own The Camellia Sinensis Tea House in Montreal and work
as tasters, traveling the world looking for teas. Jonathan Racine who
works for the Tea House did the editorial work. Topics include a primer
on tea, varieties, processing, cultivars, making-serving-tasting tea,
tea ceremonies, and tea in cooking (with 14 recipes by Quebecois
chefs). The source of all non-herbal teas is the plant Camellia sinensis, which is processed three different ways to produce the major classes (black, green, oolong, white, yellow, Pu er, scented and smoked. Terroir also imparts unique character to a tea. Reference material includes a bibliography, scientific tables
for the biochemical properties of 35 teas, and a directory of teas.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Throughout the book, there are profiles of tea growers. The first edition of this book was my Drink Book of the Month; this edition has the same rating: 92.



29.SUPERFOODS; the healthiest foods on the planet. 2D ed (Firefly, 2014, 256
pages, ISBN 978-1-77085-256-3, $24.95 CAD paper covers) is by
registered dietitian Tonia Reinhard, who has authored other books
dealing with vitamins and nutrition. Here, she devotes a page to each
of some 200 superfoods. The definition of such is "nutrient-dense", one
that provides a high level of nutrients in a reasonable number of
calories (that is, more bang for the buck). There have been a number of
such books over the past few years; indeed, it has even reached down to
"Superfoods for Dummies". Her book is arranged by food type:
vegetables, mushrooms, legumes, fruits, nuts and oils, herbs and
spices, grains, meats, dairy food, and beverages. In this second edition, she gives data on new research about the food ("The Healthy Evidence"), and how effective that food is.
For each superfood, she has details on nutritional content, seasonal variations,
curative value, combinations that enhance their efficacy and those to
avoid, how to maximize the beneficial effects of each, prep advice, and
culinary tips. But no recipes. There are lots here such as an
explanation of anti-oxidants, omegas, free radicals, enzymes, and
minerals. Certainly, you'd want to begin eating these foods before many
others....and quickly. There are also updated nutritional tables and a glossary.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.



30.HOW TO GROW FOOD; a step-by-step guide to growing all kinds of
fruits, vegetables, herbs, salads and more (Firefly, 2011, 2014, 256 pages,
ISBN 978-1-77085-317-1, $19.95 CAD soft covers) is by Richard
Gianfrancesco, who is a plant scientist who has co-ordinated hundreds
of garden plant tests and trials, which have been published in
magazines and online. The book has been co-published in the UK by
Quarto, and is now available as a paperback. Here he appeals to those who want to "eat local", whether from their window box or from a large backyard (maybe as much as one-third of the North American population?). He has some good principles about
organic gardening, soil management, composting, weeds and pests,
pruning, growing from seed, buying plants, and growing in containers.
In fact, his title should really be "How to Grow Real Food". The main
section is a plant-by-plant analysis for growing. He begins with
veggies and salads (potato, sweet potato, onion, lettuces, herbs, etc.
– about 64 in all), continuing with 22 fruits and three nuts. At the
end are some ideas on preserving the crop (jams, jellies, pickles,
chutneys, drying, and freezing). There's also a sowing summary, a crop
selection summary, and a list of hardiness zones. Preparations have
their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements,
but there is no table of equivalents. Most of the typeface is a shade too small for my eyes, but the index has leading and is easy to read. And there is a good explanation on how to use the book, at the front. Quality/Price Rating: 86.


31.WHERE TO EAT AROUND THE WORLD (Travel + Leisure, 2013; distr. T. Allen, 192 pages, ISBN 978-1-932624-62-5, $19.95 US soft covers) is from Travel + Leisure  magazine. After 40 years it still the largest audience of any travel magazine. Reportage includes style, culture, food and design, all complemented by superb photography. This package migrates to a book which the publisher says is "coverage into an expertly vetted collection of culinary journeys. The material includes: top restos in New York, London, and Copenhagen; exotic cuisines in Sao Paolo, Marrakesh, and Vietnam; iconic dishes in Italy, Japan and Paris; and local dishes in Texas, Dubai and South Africa. There is other experiental material about eating in such places as Hawaii, Mexico City and Shanghai. There's directory type data and recommendations on what to order, and more than 200 colour pix. There's a chapter on the search for pizza in Naples vs. Rome, another on Greek wine country, and a third on "for the love of ramen" – just some of the 27 locations in all. Quality/price rating: 88.


32.FOOD & WINE ANNUAL COOKBOOK 2014; an entire year of recipes (Food & Wine Books, 2014; distr. T. Allen, 408 pages, ISBN 978-1-932624-63-2, $32.95 US) comes from "Food & Wine" magazine, and the recipes are actually from 2013's contents (using the principle of forward dating employed by almanacs). These are most, if not all, of the recipes published in 2013. All topics and courses are covered in individual chapters, from apps to desserts, with lunches and breakfasts and brunches plus drinks in their separate sections. Each of the 700 or so recipes is  sourced as to author, with a short biography
at the back of the book for each person. Contributors are noted chefs, freelancers, staff, and professional recipe developers, such as Mario Batali, the late Marcella Hazan, and Michael Symon. Beverages are also included, as well as a
few basic recipes to round out the completeness of the book. Each main course and appetizer has been paired with a wine, listed by style or varietal name, but brands are
mentioned and may not be available in Canada. 200 staff faves have been highlighted, and over the years, it was learned that these are the ones the book purchasers try first.
All preparations are coded as to "fast", and "healthy", and "make ahead". What I like about this book is the extensive, really good index, the use of colours, and the wine pairing. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is a table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 89.


33.BETTER HOMES AND GARDENS FRESH GRILLING (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2014; distr. T. Allen, 288 pages, ISBN 978-0-544-24219-7, $19.99 US soft covers) is the latest in the test kitchen series from a variety of magazines in both Canad and the United States. Which ones you prefer is probably dependent on whether you read the magazine or not. Certainly, they are all affordable and represent value. Here, the BH&G magazine presents some 200 grilling recipes, each with a photo, full nutritional information, and prep and grill times. Primer data includes the basics of equipment, techniques, sauces and rubs, and a produce guide for choosing, storing and preparing fresh veggies and fruits. Arrangement is by course: apps to desserts. There's a special chapter on "quick smoke": using wood chips or planks for a smoky accent in 30 minutes or less (rosemary-orange stuffed smoked pork tenderloin, smoked duck breast with acorn squash, smoked new york strip steaks, smoky beets-orange-ribeye salad, rack of lamb with smoked potatoes, and more). Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is also a full page of tables of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.

34.PIZZA ON THE GRILL (Taunton Press, 2014, 186 pages, ISBN 978-1-60085-828-4, $17.95 US soft covers) is by Elizabeth Karmel, a cookbook author, AP writer, and executive chef of Hill Country Barbecue Market and Country Chicken (NYC, Brooklyn, and Wash DC) and Bob Blumer, host of various Food Network shows and author of five cookbooks. It was originally published in 2008, and sold about 60,000 copies. It has been updated by both tweaking her and there and adding 10 gluten-free recipes (plus a gluten-free pizza dough). The 60 preps are easy-to-follow, good for all tastes and body needs: vegetarian, kids, meat eaters. Each comes with ingredient substitutions plus a drink and salad suggestion to complement the flavours of the pie. All pizzas are meant for grilling, so no bake stone is needed – the heat of the grill is enough. There are the classics, the meatless, the seafood, the pork, the chicken, the beef, the veggies, even the sweeties. One for summer. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.

35.28 DAYS TO YOUNGER SKIN (Robert Rose, 2013, 2014, 253 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0480-2, $24.95 CAN paper covers) is by Karen Fischer, who has authored other Rose books on skin care and eczema and diets. An earlier book offered a diet for 8 weeks with 100 recipes. This one goes for only 4 weeks, with only 50 or so recipes – a fast track program for people who have a special occasion coming up, such as a wedding, a holiday, or family/school reunion. It is a supplement to any current skin program one is using, and was originally published in Australia in 2013. Why 28 days? It takes that long for skin cells to be produced and travel to the surface. Also, it takes 21 days to break or form new habits, so 28 days seems to be an ideal run. One's metabolism will be boosted, and nutrients supplied for renewal and maintenance. But it will take some work since this is   a fast-track, not a lifestyle change. Her top 12 foods include dark leafy greens, red quinoa, black sesame seeds, blueberries, pomegranate, red onion, yellow curry powder, cloves, and more. Each recipe has nutritional data and tips, etc. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. There is, though, a resources list to check out and track down all the research she gives us. And the usual Rose production of large print and leading.
Quality/price rating: 88.


36.THE SCIENCE OF WINE; from vine to glass. 2D ed.  (University of California Press, 2005, 2012, 216 pages, ISBN 978-0-520-27689-5, $39.95 US hard covers) is by Jamie Goode, UK wine writer and columnist. The first edition in 2006 was the Glenfiddich Drink Book of the Year. It's a great introduction to the scientific and technical innovations applied to grape-growing and winemaking. It explains how the practical applications of science affects the quality, flavour and perception of wine. In addition, there is also some material on Mother Nature: how climate change and global warming is also affecting wine production and styles. As it is about the "science" of wine, it also covers biodynamics, health benefits, and screw cap closures. New to this edition is a discussion of genetically modified grapevines, sulphur dioxide, the future of cork, wine flavour chemistry; updating by new chapters  has occurred for soils, vines, oxygen management, red wine production techniques, and the role of language. An immensely accessible book, written for the lay person, and with a glossary at the end. But no footnotes or bibliography. Quality/price rating: 90.

Dean Tudor, Wine Writer, www.deantudor.com

 

Friday, May 16, 2014

Le Clos Jordanne: four tasting notes, June 2014.

 
Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Chardonnay VQA, $30 +33936 June Vintages: I've tasted Le Clos Jordanne over the years (often calling it "Closer Dan", as a nod to baseball's lights out relief pitchers in the ninth inning: it has often shut down the competition). Here, at 13.5% ABV, the wine is a bit more restrained. Currently, the minerality is showing, but the core needs to soften a bit for harmony. This will come with age. On the mid-palate, the balance is shading to some aged complexity, and I can expect more of this in the future as the pattern holds for later consumption. From three estates around Jordan, each expressing the MVC of stone fruit, minerality, and acid balance – tempered by wood aging and, later of course, time. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
 
Le Clos Jordanne Claystone Terrace Chardonnay 2011 VQA, $40 +56929 July Vintages: here, with a delimited quantity of estate grapes from one vineyard, the wine is progressing with more orchard fruit tones. There is also more structure and complexity, leading to more concentration and finesse. Oaking is more mute and balanced, but will still need time to resolve. One for the cellar, certainly affordable at this price. 13.5% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Pinot Noir 2011 VQA, $30 +33894 Vintages: the 2011 vintage in Ontario was very cool. Ontario pinot noir should then exhibit a range of Burgundian characteristics, muting any showiness typical of a warmer climate. This Village Reserve pinot, from four different vineyards about Jordan, is at 13% ABV according to the label. What had begun as complex red cherries has now evolved into some depth of red fruit in general (strawbs, rasps, cherries) with upper floral notes being integrated into the wood treatment. Forest floor is also present. Chosen by the winemaker Sebastien Jacquey as his Cuvee 2014 entry. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
Le Clos Jordanne Jordanne Vineyard Pinot Noir 2011 VQA, $40 +33902 Vintages: the cool 2011 vintage continued to show Burgundian characteristics in Ontario pinot noirs. From the eastern side of the vineyard. Ontario cranberries are showing well here, but there is also a dollop of black fruit (plum, black currants, blueberries). Tannins are maturing, but there is also some mushroom component as the forest floor continues to evolve. But some succulence is also here on the finish. A cellar keeper for many years. 13.5% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Wednesday, May 14, 2014

Strewn Terroir Wine series: six reviews May 2014

Strewn Terroir French Oak Chardonnay 2011 VQA NOTL, $24.95 winery: at 14.4% ABV, I was wowed by the ripeness of the wine, loaded with spices and caramel. Long, long finish after some tropicality. New and used French oak barrels, cork finish. For 2012, this wine was aged in two different ways – one in US oak, the other in French oak, selling for the same price of $24.95. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
Strewn Terroir Riesling 2011 VQA NOTL, $16.95 winery: at 11.2% ABV, this wine beguiled me. Very much in the Mosel mode with lovely concentrated aromatics and the apricot-peach-citric triangle of tastes. Ever so slightly off-dry, enough for sipping on the patio or with a first  course. The 2012, at 11.9% ABV, is a bit drier, same price. Twist top. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
Strewn Terroir Fume Blanc 2012 VQA NOTL, $18.95 winery: a new wine to the portfolio, done up with barrel fermentation of sauvignon blanc (50% US and 50% Canadian oak). Rich and herby, tempered by the wood. Obviously needs time to resolve the toastiness, but will be worth the weight (I had the bottle open for a week). 13.6% ABV, twist top. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
Strewn Terroir Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 VQA NOTL, $29.80 winery: rich and meaty, ripe mintiness, black fruit, mocha, forest floor. 13.1% ABV, can be enjoyed now (almost 4 years after vintage), but will definitely improve. My fave red of the tasting. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
Strewn Terroir Cabernet Franc Dry Late Harvest 2011 VQA NOTL, $38 winery: again, rich and meaty but this time from the late harvested grapes that were partially dehydrated on the vine (no drying on the mats here). Some dried fruit tones, raisins, figs, mocha, leather/earth, even "dusty". Needs rich or fatty foods, and more time – save a few more years. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
Strewn Noble Cabernet Botrytis Affected 2011 VQA NOTL, $35 375 mL, winery: nicely sweet with a dry component on the finish, succulent, pale red just beyond rose, harvested third week into November. Cabernet Franc at 83%, Cabernet Sauvignon at 17%. With that decaying intensity, it is delicious anytime. 14.9% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Sunday, May 11, 2014

* THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOK...

...is one of the hottest trends in cookbooks. Actually, they've been around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are automatic best sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or the restaurant and/or the media personality. Many of the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but more often there is not. I'll try to point this out. The usual shtick is "favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks". There is also PR copy on "demystifying ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf also includes much use of the magic phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books) don't seem to work at home, but how could that be? The books all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. The celebrity books, with well-known chefs or entertainers, seem to have too much self-involvement and ego. And, of course, there are a lot of food photo shots, verging on gastroporn. There are endorsements from other celebrities in magnificent cases of logrolling. If resources are cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books –

14.JON BONNELL'S WATERS; fine coastal cuisine (Gibbs Smith, 2014; distr. Raincoast, 222 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-3306-8, $35 US hard covers) is by the owner of Bonnell's Fine Texas Cuisine (2001), a regional-Texas style restaurant in Fort Worth. But this is about his newest place, Waters, and is devoted to seafood. He has also authored two other books about Texas cuisine. He has recipes for fancy dining on more than 35 varieties of fish and seafood, with a grouping of accompaniments to produce a full course. All techniques are covered: cold, raw, ceviche, soup, salad, poached, steamed, sauteed, crispy fried, grilled, roasted, and baked. Many of the dishes call for Southwestern spicing, and he has his appropriate rubs, sauces and blends. He also has a nice, all-round recipe for Waters Bay Blend, with 22 different seasonings. Try steamed mussels with jalapeno, seared mahi with artichokes and capers, almond crusted speckled trout with brown butter, or grilled scallop kebabs on rosemary skewers. Large print format is a real plus here (and this includes the index). Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is a table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 88.






15.A VISUAL GUIDE TO SUSHI-MAKING AT HOME (Chronicle Books, 2014, 223 pages, ISBN 978-1-4521-0710-3, $35 US hard covers) is by Hrio Sone (Beard Award winning chef and co-owner of Ame Restaurant and Terra Restaurant in the Frisco Bay Area) and Lissa Doumani (the other co-owner). There are usually two books year on making sushi (at least since 1997), but this one has tons of photography. These are the fundamentals for 50 recipes, with step-by-step visuals. The first 100 pages cover the basics of breaking down and trimming the fish/seafood, plus making rice, dashi, soy glaze, pickled ginger, and grating daikon and toasting nori. The rest is making hand-formed sushi (nigiri-zushi), gunkan-maki warship rolls, maki-zushi skinny rolls, maki-zushi hand rolls, and sushi don bowls. I've always played it safe when eating at unknown places, so I've largely stuck with salmon, tuna and shrimp as the seafood. But I do love smoked eel...Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois and mostly metric measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. The photography of the finished plates is amazing, and can serve as a great catalogue of sushi dishes. Quality/price rating: 89.


16.JOSEY BAKER BREAD (Chronicle Books, 2014, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-4521-1368-5, $27.50 US hard covers) is by baker Baker operating out of The Mill in San Francisco. Here are 18 step-by-step lessons, ranging from sourdough through whole grain breads, with rye and seeded along the way. The core recipes here can be spun off into buns, pizzas, and pockets and other shapes and sizes. There are also scones, fruit crumbles, cornbread – even cookies. Covered are sesame loaves, olive bread, cinnamon raisin, black pepper parmesan, sesame poppy, cranberry walnut, corn kamut, cheddar chive, and fig fennel.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table equivalents and only the metric is scaled. Quality/price rating: 86.


17.CHOCOLATE, CHOCOLATE & MORE CHOCOLATE (Imagine! Books, 2014; distr. T. Allen, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-62354-020-3, $18.95 US hard covers) is by Ellie Tarrab, now running a chocolate boutique in Tel Aviv called Cardinal, offering pralines, bonbons, and the like. There are 80 preps here for chocolate truffles, ganache, candies, cookies, sheets, bars, pralines, and general desserts. Plus, of course, a primer on dealing with chocolate. He even has blondies (white chocolate). Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are tables of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 86.


18.PANCAKES, CREPES, WAFFLES & FRENCH TOAST (Ryland Peters & Small, 2014, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-487-3, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Hannah Miles, one of the Ryland stable of food writers (over 12 books), TV presenter in the UK, and one of three finalists in the MasterChef TV show in 2007. It's a concise and precise book, with 60 recipes on the brunch front, with material on how to make fancy sauces and fillings for simple comfort foods. There are thick US-type pancakes and thin French crepes. There is even one gluten-free spinach and ricotta crepe recipe, using buckwheat flour. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois and mostly metric measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. There are also the usual fabulous Ryland photos of plated dishes. Quality/price rating: 87.


19.FRIENDS AROUND THE TABLE; Mediterranean recipes for relaxed entertaining (Ryland Peters & Small, 2014, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-84986-461-3, $27.95 US hard covers) is by Acland Geddes, now owner of Megan's in London (after catering and then cheffing in gastropubs). Recipes were developed by Acland and Pedro da Silva, head chef at Megan's. The 60 recipes call for careful planning, to make it an event (tablecloths, cutlery, decorations, etc.), not just taking advantage of warm weather to eat outside. Lunch al fresco brings back the classics: gazpacho, carpaccio, grilled sardines and/or calamari, couscous salad or crunchy fennel salad, grilled nectarines with mozzarella, roasted pears. Another section deals with a large crowd and serious meats such as lamb or beef. A third covers just two diners, with preps scaled down to two (no leftovers). Another is teatime, another is for side dishes. Well-thought out, but I would have like a few more recipes (try cutting back on the lavish photography, which I cannot eat). Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois and mostly metric measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.


20.PLANT FOOD (Gibbs Smith, 2014; distr. Raincoast, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-3062-3, $19.99 US soft covers) is by Matthew Kenney, Meredith Baird, and Scott Winegard – all associated with the Matthew Kenney Restaurant and Academy. Both Matthew and Meredith have written a variety of raw cookbooks, and this is also a raw food book. But instead of just being plates of "raw" food, the chefs have here innovated with different techniques that involve no cooking and retain the nutritional elements of the plant. Familiar tools used in new ways such as smokers and dehydrators – there is a two page list of modernist equipment at the back of the book. The preps are presented in groups: found, quality, sprouted, spun, dried, smoked, sealed, cured, pressed, fermented, aged, sweetened and sipped. There is also an interesting section on kefir grains. Typical are lemon verbena "creme" on porcini cracker, young celery with juniper oil, rye seaweed crisps with macadamia butters, smoked cashews with herbs and flowers. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is a table of metric equivalents. Great photography. Quality/price rating: 87.

21.WOLFGANG PUCK MAKES IT HEALTHY (Grand Central Life & Style, 2014; distr. Hachette, 336 pages, ISBN 978-1-4555-0884-6, $30 US hard covers) is by Puck and Chad Waterbury with Norman Kolpas and Lou Schuler. Waterbury is a strength coach and personal trainer. The subtitle says it all – light, delicious recipes and easy exercise for a better life.  As Puck says, "I never, ever expected to write this book". But over the years, he's become more concerned about his own eating habits, diets, and exercises. This concern has moved over to his family and friends and paying customers of his restaurants and catering company. This is his seventh cookbook, with 100 useful recipes to satisfy nutritional needs. It is mainly popular food (Mediterranean, Asiatic, Mexican) which is full of flavours, simple to prepare, and full of calorie/fat reducing elements such as using yoghurt to replace sour cream (who doesn't these days? But do get the pro-biotic kind), egg whites to replace some of the yolks, and so forth. The arrangement has the kitchen first, followed by the dishes in course order, and then an exercise section of some 30 pages (extremely useful). I did not notice any menus, although there is a page on meal planning. Typical dishes include mandarin noodles with sauteed pork and veggies, prosciutto pizza, stir-fried shrimp salad, and a variety of low-cal/low-fat sauces and dressings. With Puck's name attached, the healthy lifestyle must have hit the mainstream. Go for it...Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.


22.THE CHOPPED COOKBOOK (Clarkson Potter, 2014; distr. Random House of Canada, 240 pages, ISBN 978-0-7704-3500-4, $27.50 US hard covers) is by the Food Network Kitchen, the operation behind the TV shows, website, magazine, restaurants, and Kohl's products. It is staffed by food stylists, recipe developers, researchers, and chefs. Here, they've put out the preps behind the TV show "Chopped". It uses the same principles as the show (use what you've got to cook something great), but substitutes your pantry and leftovers in the fridge for 188 doable recipes. Most of the dishes here use four ingredients plus the pantry. There are a lot of shortcuts listed, as well as timing (active, total), and of course it is arranged by major ingredient: there are chapters for pastas, chickens, eggs, veggies,salads, fish, grains and desserts. Scrumptious dishes include coconut panna cotta with candied peanuts, chile affogato, mushroom and cheese baked polenta, carrot and almond arancini, and butter-basted flat iron steak with tomato butter sauce and parsley noodles (25 minutes total time for the steak). Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.


23.TEENY'S TOUR OF PIE; a cookbook (Workman Publishing, 2014; distr. T. Allen, 272 pages, ISBN 978-0-7611-7336-6, $15.95 US soft covers) is by Teeny Lamothe, who runs Teeny Pies in Washington, DC. She's also written on pies for online and print publications. Here she has 67 preps, mainly from her business, covering fruit pies, cream pies, innovative pies, and savoury pies. Included are profiles of pie-makers and some regional specialties. There are 10 no-fail crusts here (including one that is gluten-free), as well as a pie calendar (what to make according to the season: in summer, bluebarb pie, peach pie, strawb-lime tarts, and summer squash pies with a cracker crust seem very convenient. There are extensive instructions and many tips, along with nutritional advice and timings. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are tables of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.


24.FRENCHIE; new bistro cooking (Artisan, 2012, 2014; distr. T. Allen, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-57965-534-1, $22.95 US hard covers) is by Greg Marchand, owner of Frenchie bistro in Paris. It was originally published in French in 2012, as an "at home" cookbook from the French bistro. This is its North American debut, and it comes with some heavy-duty log rolling from Oliver, Waters, Bourdain, and Lebovitz. The latter nails it when he refers to a "matchup of French and American cooking showcases the best of both cultures." The arrangement is by season, from spring. There is a short intro that is a partial memoir, and a short list of sources. There are about 50 recipes; those from spring include foie gras with cherry chutney, wild garlic broth with fresh crabmeat, crispy pollock with asparagus, and grilled mackerel with cauliflower farrotto and trout roe. Upscale, but doable. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Profusely illustrated. Quality/price rating: 86.


25.THE BIG-FLAVOR GRILL; no-marinade, no-hassle recipes (Ten Speed Press, 2014, 240 pages, ISBN 978-1-60774-527-3, $25US hard covers) is by former Boston chef-owner of East Coast Grill (and Beard Award winner) Chris Schlesinger and John Willoughby, now editorial director for magazines at America's Test Kitchen. The 130 recipes here promise no brines, marinades or basting are needed. Waiting time will be saved, which also means you can sort of spontaneously make BBQ. The authors advocate spice rubs (made up and used in the time it takes for the grill to heat up) and powerful post-BBQ ingredients to toss with the food (citrus, hoisin, fish sauce, ginger, basil, fresh chiles). They recommend trying five-spice steak "tips" with grilled pineapple and sweet-sour sauce, Thai-style baby back ribs, chicken breasts with maple-soy glaze and peanut-ginger relish, and fish steaks with sriracha-basil butter. Yummy. Now, can we just get rid of the grilling? The book is predicated on live fire grilling, although there is advice on how to handle gas grills. Certainly, if you are stuck indoors, you can use a ridged cast iron grill on the stove – you'll need a hooded fan, but it works. Try smoke-roasted whole chickens, grilled pork chops with hoisin-peanut sauce, grilled new potatoes, and other goodies. Complete with flow charts (hey, this is a guy book), this is a real winner here...Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 89.


26.GRILL TO PERFECTION (Page Street Publishing, 2014, 192 pages, ISBN 978-1-62414-042-6, $21.99 US soft covers) is by Andy Husbands (Beard Award winning chef-owner of Tremont 647) and Chris Hart, a multiple BBQ competition winner. Both are part of the award-winning BBQ team, iQUE, and together they have been Kansas City BBQ Society Grand Champions 35(!) times. Food free-lancer Andrea Pyenson has been the focusing writer. The book has been arranged by physical heat: it opens with hot direct grilling (searing), followed by medium (roasting), and low direct grilling. The authors also introduce their two-zone hybrid grilling by building a two-zone fire in a gas grill. The last chapter is about low and slow grilling using the two-zone method. In addition to traditional meats, preps include fish, lamb, and veggies. There is a resources list, a drinks section, and a section "the tools we always have when we grill". The first rate recipes include seared greens with grilled chicken livers and blue cheese, BBQ oysters, chocolate sea salt butter, grilled shrimp cocktail with chipotle sauce, and even grilled spam with curried slaw. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no overall table of equivalents. Very useful book, lacking just the regular margin gutters that Page Street is known for. Quality/price rating: 87.


27.SLIMMING MEALS THAT HEAL (Random House Canada, 2014, 338 pages, ISBN 978-0-345-81350-3, $29.95 CAN soft covers) is by Julie Daniluk, RHN, author of Meals That Heal Inflammation, and the co-host of Healing Gourmet, a reality cooking show on the Oprah Winfrey Network. She's appeared on many other TV shows as a nutrition expert. In her current book, she connects inflammation-allergies-weight gain, and gives us 120 or so new recipes. The basis premise here is lifestyle change: tasty food that will make you come back for more, even after you've lost that weight. There is information here on organ cleansing, superfoods, and techniques to reduce food cravings. At the heart is her five-step plan on how to boost metabolism and to balance hormones. The first 140 pages cover the program material, and then come the recipes, arranged by course. Each prep has a logo to indicate eggs, soy, dairy, tree nuts, GI score level, high GI score, raw foods, and nightshades. All preps are gluten-free. Typical are lemon-marinated fennel bulbs, Key lime shake, turkey chili, a no bake pumpkin pie, a gluten-free lasagne, and cashew-crusted chicken. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. She concludes with a resources list, bibliographic references, and two indexes (by subject and by recipe). Quality/price rating: 87.

Dean Tudor, Wine Writer, www.deantudor.com

Wednesday, May 7, 2014

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR MAY 10, 2014

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR  MAY 10, 2014
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1994. My LCBO tastings are based on MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.
 
 
====>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *UNDER* $20
 
Hinterbrook Barrel Fermented Reserve Chardonnay 2011 VAQ Niagara Lakeshore, +292375, $19.95: a good quality scoop if you can find it at the stores. Twist top, 13.8%, good mix of oaking (20% new French oak). Fruity, baked goods, caramel finish. QPR: 91.
 
====>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *OVER* $20
 
Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Marlborough, +677450, $23.95.
 
TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1.Featherstone Black Sheep Riesling 2012 VQA Niagara, +80234, $16.95: intense Mosel-like Riesling MVC flavours, 10.5% ABV, twist top. Very long finish. More off-dry than medium. Sip or with food. QPR: 89.
2.Hermanos de Domingo Molia Torrontes 2012 Cafayate Salta, +303685, $16.95: the summer wine of Toronto? Perhaps, with the similar name. Typically light and fruity, with sustain on the finish of 13.9% ABV. QPR: 89.
3.San Esteban In Situ Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Aconcagua Valley, +369470, $15.95: refreshingly tart for summer with fruit (melon) and acid (citrus) in balance. Twist top, 13% ABV. QPR: 89.
4.Maycas del Limari Reserva Especial Chardonnay 2010 Limari, +162040, $19.95: with a cork finish and 14% ABV, this substantial chard shows good wood tones from aging in French oak, and a long length. QPR: 89.
5.Marisco The Ned Pinot Gris 2013 Marlborough, +267138, $16.95: very tasty, slight grey-rose colour, depth in the style of "gris", 13% ABV. Emphasizes florals and spices, good sipper, long length with food. QPR: 89.
6.Cathedral Cellar Chardonnay 2012 WO Western Cape, +328559, $15.95: this brand has been at Vintages since the 2005 vintage (but not every vintage), and its price has remained stable. It is a personal fave of mine, showing good oaking. But as the vintages go by, there is less oak than before. This one has more citric fruit finish than earlier editions. QPR: 89.
7.Paul Mas Nicole Vineyard Viognier 2012 IGP Pays d'Oc, +370098, $17.95: brilliant old world style, nicely aged, 13.5%, good value for orchard fruit. QPR: 89.
8.Konigschaffhausen Vulkanfelsen Trocken Pinot Gris 2012 Baden, +597500, $15.95: yet another substantial "gris", more off-dry, and good value from Germany. 13% ABV, twist top. QPR: 89.
 
TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1.Ridgepoint Wines Cabernet/Merlot 2011 VQA Twenty Mile Bench Niagara, +101519, $14.95: compelling, great oaking presence (over 18 months), 13% ABV, twist top. Smokey BBQ tones. You know what that means...QPR: 89.
2.Aconacagua Roble Oak Malbec 2007 Mendoza, +369603, $15.95: good value red, with over-the-top fruit and the usually well-developed toast and animal tones. 13.4% ABV. QPR: 89.
3.Chateau Ferran Classique 2012 Fronton, +370114, $16.95: good blend of local varieties with cab franc, dark tones, good tastes, 14% ABV. Gold Medalist. QPR: 89.
4.Lirica Primitivo di Manduria 2007 Puglia, +326710, $18.95: this month's underpriced zinfandel. 14%. QPR: 89.
5.Bod Franco Espanolas Rioja Bordon Reserva 2008, +194753, $19.95: excellent Rioja MVC, in US oak for two years, tempranillo tempered with garnacha and mazuelo in a classic blend. 13.5% ABV. QPR: 89.
6.Valdemar Inspiraco Seleccion 2010 Rioja, +166512, $17: scooped up by the LCBO in a timely fashion, 14% ABV, 90% tempranillo and 10% graciano. Better with food. QPR: 89.
 
VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10 markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.
 
1.Flat Rock The Rusty Shed Chardonnay 2011 VQA Twenty Mile Bench Niagara, +1552, $24.95 retail.
2.Remo Farina Le Pezze Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2011, +171587, $37.95.
3.Jean-Max Roger Cuvee G.C. Sancerre 2013, +189126, $28.95.
4.Max Ferd. Richter Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2007 Prad. Mosel, +998120, $20.95.
5.Jackson-Triggs Grand Reserve Meritage 2011 VQA Niagara, +594002, $24.95.
6.Tabali Reserva Especial 2009 Limari Valley, +107540, $22.95.
7.Saltram Mamre Brook Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Barossa, +48579, $26.95.
8.Torbreck The Steading 2009 Barossa, +97220, $53.95.
9.Gerard Bertrand Grand Teroir La Clape Sytah/Carignan/Mourvedre 2009, +370262, $20.95.
10.Domaine du Clos Gautier Cuvee Emile 2008 Cotes de Provence, +374330, $24.95.
11.Delas Freres Les Launes Crozes-Hermitage 2011, +701359, $22.95.
12.Banfi Regali La Lus Albarossa 2009 Piedmont, +291575, $24.95.
13.Opus One 2006 Napa, 1500 mL, +14324, $1075.00. There's a great temptation to list this one here; I encourage restaurateurs to buy some and mark it up $24 or so. You can also get some profit from the HST rebate.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Tuesday, May 6, 2014

More FOOD AND DRINK BOOKS IN REVIEW

THE NOURISHED KITCHEN (Ten Speed Press, 2014, 314 pages, ISBN 978-1-60774-468-9, $27.99 US paper covers) is by Jennifer McGruther, a food educator and blog owner at www.nourishedkitchen.com. It comes with log rolling from Deborah Madison and others. It can be summed up as "farm-to-table recipes for the traditional lifestyle, featuring bone broths, fermented vegetables, grass-fed meats, wholesome fats, raw dairy, and kombuchas". – nutrient dense real food. A traditional diet allows for grains, unlike a paleo diet, and for cultured dairy such as kefir or yogurt, fermented food with pro-biotics, and organ meats. The important to remember is that raw dairy, fermented foods, and organs should always be organic. Arrangement is by location: foods from the garden, the pasture, the range, the waters, the fields, the wild, the orchard, and the larder. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is a table of metric equivalents. At the end she has a glossary and a list of resources, including a listing of food advocacy groups.
Audience and level of use: those seeking a healthier lifestyle.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: rabbit pie with bacon and chanterelles; mincemeat hand pies; red berry kvass; beetroot relish; greek salad with buttermilk herb dressing; dulse and potato soup; salmon baked in cream with thyme and dill; squash, butternut, and white mean mash with garlic and sage.
The downside to this book: not much is stated about the importance of "organic" foods, although much is implied.
The upside to this book: good treatment.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.




10.HEALTHY DISH OF THE DAY (Weldon Owen, 2014, 304 pages, ISBN 978-1-61628-665-1, $34.95 US hard covers) is from Williams-Sonoma, and is one of a series from them on 365 recipes for every day of the year. Kate McMillan, owner-chef of a catering company and food  educator, is the author. There's two or three preps on a page, along with a calendar and  photos. It is seasonal, so for February 19, there is chicken cacciatore, for which you can use frozen chicken and canned tomatoes from the larder, to avoid shopping trips and outofseason veggies. For July 18, there are fresh eggs poached in fresh tomato sauce with crostini. One dish a day does it, the other two can be leftovers or no-cook preps. It's pretty straightforward and its value lies in "healthy" and "365 recipes". So you could have two a day, and repeat some faves. There is something here for everyone and for every occasion (quick weeknight meal, entertaining on weekends, healthy classic comfort dish. The arrangement by calendar precludes a quick dip for a type of course, so there is a traditional index by ingredient and an index by type (burgers, curries, pasta, pizza, salads, sandwiches, soups, stews, stir-fries, vegan, etc. Preparations have their ingredients listed in mainly avoirdupois and some metric measurements, but there is no table of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: those looking for healthy meals.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: I'm writing this review on April 2, so I should be having pasta with English peas and morels tonight, followed by tomorrow's asparagus-pea and fava bean stew, then Friday's salmon satay burgers with cucumber-onion relish, and then stuffed artichokes, spinach frittata, spring veggies, and pan-seared chicken.
The downside to this book: the preps require an extensive larder if you stick with the plan. It also weighs a lot.
The upside to this book: good database of preps, like other in the series.
Quality/Price Rating: 86.


11.THE CREAMERY KITCHEN (Ryland Peters & Small, 2014, 128 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-494-1, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Jenny Linford, author of some 15 books including Food Lovers' London. Here, in 45 recipes, she delves into fresh dairy products such as butter, yogurt, labneh (yogurt cheese), sour cream, cream cheese, ricotta, cottage cheese, feta and others. These are all easy to make, and seem straightforward in an uncomplicated way. There are many colour photos of techniques, and recipes that use the cream products. All of this, of course, tastes better when made with raw milk, but accessibility in North America is spotty, unlike the UK (but it is banned in Scotland). Certainly organic pasteurized milk can be a compromise. Preparations have their ingredients listed mostly in avoirdupois with some metric measurements, but there is no table of equivalents given.
Audience and level of use: homemade artisans, the adventuresome.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: for example, under labneh yogurt cheese, there are lamb skewers with za'atar labneh, asparagus-pea and labneh salad, dukkah flatbreads with herbed labneh, and saffron & cardamom labneh with mango.
The downside to this book: I think it needs more recipes.
The upside to this book: homemade artisanal foods are trending.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.


12.THE VEGAN PANTRY (Ryland Peters & Small, 2014; distr. T. Allen, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-489-7, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Dunja Gulin, a teacher-chef in Zagreb who has authored other raw and vegan cookbooks. Here she presents a primer of 60 basic preps, with data on important vegan ingredients, substitutions when needed, getting essential vitamins and minerals, and – most importantly for the book – how to stock and maintain a pantry (grains, dried legumes, pasta, oils/vinegars, salt, nuts/seeds, herbs/spices, thickeners) and a fridge (condiments, non-dairy milk). Arrangement is by course, and includes breakfast, apps, mains, salads, sauces/dips, soups/stews, and desserts. Preparations have their ingredients listed mostly in avoirdupois and some metric measurements, but there is no table of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: those seeking the vegan lifestyle.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: millet croquettes; eggplant and date chutney;  quinoa, fennel and arame salad; sweet potato wedges; curry tofu; Mediterranean green lentil loaf; zucchini and walnut canapes.
The downside to this book: has basics that many vegans may already know.
The upside to this book: a good primer
Quality/Price Rating: 86.




13.FRESH FROM THE FARM; a year of recipes and stories (Taunton Press, 2014, 250 pages, ISBN 978-1-60085-904-5, $28 US hard covers) is by Susie Middleton, former editor of Fine Cooking magazine and now cookbook author and free lance food writer and blogger. This is part memoir, part recipes – taken from a year on her farm, which she began commercially on Martha's Vineyard in 2010. There are 125 seasonal recipes, 35 finished-dish photos, and 181 lifestyle photos. Her culinary storytelling evolves in the memoir style of trials, failures and triumphs. It should be noted that the recipes are not all vegetarian. It is arranged by season, from late spring to early fall. She concludes with four designs for garden or farm. Since the book is seasonally arranged, the two indexes are useful: by course, and by ingredient. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are no tables of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: for those looking to start their own veggie farm
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: summer veggie-palooza paella; greens, sausage and tortelloni soup; roasted parmesan-crusted cod with baby potatoes and bell peppers; corn-off-the-cob and yellow bean saute with bacon and herbs; molasses crinkle cookies.
The downside to this book: some of the memoirs run as continuous sidebars through the recipes, and can prove to be distracting.
The upside to this book: good marketing advice, good business plans.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.

Dean Tudor, Wine Writer, www.deantudor.com

 

Sunday, May 4, 2014

* FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH! *

CHARCUTERIA; the soul of Spain (Surrey Books, 2014, 462 pages, ISBN 978-1-57284-152-9, $39.95 US hard covers) is by Jeffrey Weiss, chef at Jeninni Kitchen + Wine Bar in Pacific Grove, California (Monterey Peninsula). He earned a ICEX culinary scholarship to live in Spain, learn regional cuisines, and cook in top kitchens. This amazing book deals with Spanish butchering and meat-curing techniques in English for North Americans. There are more than 100 traditional Spanish recipes, with step-by-step photos, and engaging closeups of plated dishes. There's log rolling by Colman Andrews and Michael Ruhlman – at least they say something informative beyond "great book". It is also a partial travel book with some memoir material, good for the armchair traveler-cook or as a gift. There is some historical depth and a superb re-telling of "dead pig walking" as butchering is described. Not for the faint of heart, but real it is. There is a lot of material about charcuteria stylings, including some charts and fat levels. Then come the recipes: basic brines and cures, adobos, escabeche, confits, embutidos, pates and terrines, salsas, and desserts. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents (and p.437 is blank). There is a Spanish sources list with street addresses, other sources, a glossary, a bibliography, and excellent photography. It weighs almost 2 kilos, but it should be an award-winning book at a great price.
Audience and level of use: it is a good book for those engaged in whole beast cookery; also very useful for the jaded cook who demands more.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: caldo blanco; cured egg yolks; bacalao in green sauce; partridge escabeche; alioli; bocadillo de chorizo (sandwich); panceta curada; preserved pork shank and ham bone; botifarra sausages; chistorra sausages.
The downside to this book: there may be too much info here for many people, but it is a good reference book.
The upside to this book: the index has both Spanish and English.
Quality/Price Rating: 93.


Dean Tudor, Wine Writer, www.deantudor.com

Saturday, May 3, 2014

* DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH! *

1.SUPERJUICING (Firefly Books, 2014, 240 pages, ISBN 978-1-77085-307-2, $24.95 CAN soft covers) is by Tonia Reinhard, RD (director of Coordinated Program in Dietetics at Wayne State University in Detroit, and a teacher of college-level nutritional courses) with some writing and research by her husband John. She also authored SuperFoods (Firefly), the second edition coming out last month (see previous review). Juices are nutrient-dense foods packed with the vitamins, minerals, antioxidants, phytochemicals and other good things – for the least calories. Many are tasty on their own, others need palate help. Here are more than 100 veggie and fruit recipes (82 sweet, 18 savoury), combining plants with ginger and flax and other supplements. The leftover pulpy fibre can be added to quick breads, muffins, soups, stews, meatloaf, and more. No waste here, but the chart on page 147 could have been incorporated into an earlier chapter that deals with primer material. Each prep has a nutritional analysis, with graphs and charts in some cases. The photos are basic: there is nothing much one can do with glasses of juice. Garnishes do not help. There is also a helpful section on some juicers in the market. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no handy table of equivalents. She concludes with a glossary, a resources list, and a bibliography.
Audience and level of use: those into juicing; reference libraries.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: mango carotene; berried grapes; tropical kale (with pineapple, kiwi, mango); carrot limeberry; blackberry citrus; red pepper mango; pearberry tofu; curried avocado dal; and beany zucchini.
The downside to this book: the pulp chart on p147 needs to be expanded and re-positioned in the primer section.
The upside to this book: a look at some juicers.
Quality/Price Rating: 90.

Thursday, May 1, 2014

The Event: a portfolio tasting of FWP: Food Wines of Portugal, www.winesofpotugal.ca April 28/14

The Date and Time: Monday, April 28, 2014   6:30 PM to 7:30 PM
The Event: a portfolio tasting of FWP: Food Wines of Portugal, www.winesofpotugal.ca.
The Venue: Via Norte, College Street
The Target Audience: wine buyers of Portuguese wines.
The Availability/Catalogue: everything is available mainly through FWP.
The Quote/Background: it had been some time since Portuguese wines were featured in Toronto. Arlindo Beca, who has been operating FWP for over a decade, decided to have a portfolio tasting of wines ranging from about $15 to $75 a bottle.
The Wines:
 
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Costers Del Sio Celistia Tuerra White 2011, $15.50 – my fave white
-Crasto Superior 2011 Red, $28.95 – my fave affordable red
-Julio Bastos J.B. Dona Maria Red 2011, $28
-Quinta Do Mouro Estromoz, $52
-Curriculum Vita CV Douro 2010, $135
 
 
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Campolargo Sparkling Espumante NV, $25.35
-Caves Transmontanas Vertice Cuvee Sparkling 2010, $25
-Sao Domingos Sparkling NV, $20
-Carm Maria de Lourdes Red 2008, $60
-Costers del Sio Celistia Estrellas Red 2009, $24
-Costers del Sio Celistia Tierra Red, $16.45
-Fea Cartuxa White 2011, $26
-Fonte de Paredes Herdade Grand Reserva 2009, $37
-Fonte de Paredes Herdade Reserva 2007, $22
-Julio Bastos J.B. Dona Maria White 2012, $23.85
-Lixa Pinho Real 2012 Vinho Verde, 9.5% ABV, $11.80
-Malhadinha Red 2011, %75 – still too young at this point
 
*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Fonte de Paredes Herdade Santa Ana Red 2011, $15.61
-Chocapalha Mar de Lisboa Red 2011, $18
-Chocapalha Mar de Palha Red 2009, $25.75
-Grous White 2012, $28.25
-Malhadinha Peceguina White 2012, $25
-Mouro Agil Red 2012, $14.29
-Passadouro Passa White 2012, $19
-Passadouro Passa Red 2011, $21
-Quadrus Douro 2010, $28
-Alento Reserva 2010, $27
 
The Food: the food that guys crave – fried calamari, fried shrimp, fried sardines, fried cod and potatoes, fried spring rolls – all along with appropriate sauces. And  food that ladies crave (if I may be allowed to stereotype) – rolled sushi with soy sauce. Unfortunately, the food went better with sparklers and white wines, which were just one-third of the show.
The Downside: waiting 20 minutes in bad weather for the College streetcar.
The Upside: a chance to reconnect with Portuguese wines, sorely lacking in Ontario promotional marketing.
The Contact Person: fwp@winesofportugal.ca
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 91.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com