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Tuesday, December 26, 2023

French Cremant sparkling wines...

"Cremant" is a sparkling wine made in eight regions of France (in addition to the six regions below, Cremants are also made in Die and in Savoie). It is produced by the "Traditional Method" or "Methode Champenoise". It is different from Champagne only in that it uses local specified grape varieties, but not necessarily chardonnay/pinot noir/pinot meunier as specified in Champagne. The closest a Cremant can be to Champagne is Cremant de Bourgogne, which uses the same varieties as for Champagne. Cremants represent great value, and here are the latest 27 (some of which are sparkling roses) at the LCBO as of the New Year's 2024 [more different ones may be at the Consignment warehouse or available by private order]:

Chateau de Montgueret Cremant de Loire Brut $24.05
Montgueret Cremant De Loire Rose $21.00
Grande Cuvee 1531 De Aimery Cremant De Limoux $23.95
Bailly Lapierre Réserve Brut Crémant de Bourgogne $24.95
Sieur Gaillard Cremant de Bordeaux $23.65
De Chanceny Cremant De Loire Rose Brut $25.80
Veuve Ambal Cremant De Bourgogne Grande Cuvee Brut $25.30
Vitteaut-Alberti Cremant De Bourgogne Blanc Des Blancs $29.25
Domaine Schaeffer Cremant d'Alsace Brut Rose Terroirs 2018 $27.95
Cremant de Loire Brut Nature Leon & Jean $33.70
Cleebourg Clérotstein Auxerrois Crémant d'Alsace $19.95
Domaine Schaeffer Cremant d'Alsace Brut Tradition 2018 $26.05
Viteaut-Alberti Cremant de Bourgogne Blanc de Noirs Brut $28.25
Edition Abtei Himmerod Cremant Riesling Brut  $25.95
Montgermont Crémant de Bourgogne Blanc de Noirs Brut Sparkling $28.95
Koenig Brut Crémant d'Alsace KPM $27.95
Henkell Brut Crémant de Loire 2016 $21.95
Crémant de Bourgogne Rosé Brut Perle d'Aurore Louis Bouillot $35.95
Domaine Baud Brut Sauvage Crémant du Jura Brut Sparkling $36.00
Veuve Ambal Grande Cuvée Brut Rosé Crémant de Bourgogne $19.95
Celene Cuvée Royale Rosé Crémant de Bordeaux $19.95
De Chanceny Brut Crémant de Loire $24.95
Louis Bouillot Perle Rare Brut Crémant de Bourgogne 2018 $22.95
Cave de Lugny Brut Blanc de Blancs Crémant de Bourgogne $22.95
Cave de Ribeauvillé Giersberger Brut Crémant d'Alsace $22.95
Louis Bouillot Perle d'Aurore Brut Rosé Crémant de Bourgogne $27.95
Emile Beyer Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Crémant d'Alsace $23.95


Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Wednesday, December 13, 2023

A Child's Christmas in Scarborough...

Time for my annual Christmas Greeting to all my beloved friends...A Child's Christmas in Scarborough...
 
A Child's Christmas in Scarborough
 
By Howard Engel  with apologies to Dylan Thomas
 
 
Whenever I remember Christmas as a child in Scarborough, I can never remember whether the slush was new or old, or whether we lived on the sixth street north of the shopping plaza stoplights and I was seven years old, or whether it was the seventh street and I was six. But still my nose and fingertips tingle at the thought of Christmas in the row-housing, whose names rang their challenging, forlorn ways down to the fast-backed, nerve and gear-wracking lanes of the freeway: Elegance Manors, Tweedingham Mews, Buckingham Back Courts; and I am again a boy among boys, riding our crash-barred, chrome-bedazzling bikes through the supermarket swing doors, grabbing girls' toques and Popsicles in the Mac's Milk and diving with our arms spread to make angels in the snow-banks that the ploughs churned up, plunging our hands to the soggy, stitch-straining armpits and pulling out, as I am doing now, uncles with ham-red hands, scratchy and sizzling-hot in their wife-bought cable-knits and après ski, who through the live-long Christmas afternoons watched the Buffalo Bills and the Los Angeles Rams battling in full colour on a purple field, and sat through Sugar Bowls and Dust Bowls, Cotton and Flannel Bowls until the punch bowl was emptied for the last time and they moved up the queasy, shifting stairs from the rec-room to the hall. And clear as the chlorinated water in the taps, but not so clear as a secret rivulet in the snows that we boys found near the highway that was gone in the spring when the hill was cleared for a condominium, I see Uncle Harry turning away the Salvation Army girl at the door and making us all laugh as she fell on the path on the ice I should have chipped away.
 
Christmas in Scarborough was nothing if it was not families and laughter. But before the compacts and the late-models and the single sports car owned by Aunt Hetty, the divorcee, who bought the Fugs record, before the hoards of uncles and aunts and cousins jousted for a parking spot and the superintendent appeared to ask us to remove a car that had been parked in someone else's spot, there were the presents that smoothed Father's absence due to overtime, and Mother's voice raised in the kitchen downstairs while the supper held in the stove at low heat congealed.
 
And there were disappointments, for as one scavenged among boxes and ribbons and discarded batteries from robots that never worked, and broken strings from suddenly mute Talking Barbies, there had to be one, small, bright and unutterably just right present that lies forever hiding over the rim of memory even now, as I remember, I can see it dancing somewhere in the dark room before sleep, and even in the dreams of Christmas night, when I ran through the vanished fields of our subdivision and climbed and tumbled in the haylofts of the vanished barns, it was there amongst the ghosts of swallows and blue jays and horses -- all gone now, like the words we wrote in last year's snow: Fanny Hill puts out. And, in the moonlight in the dark of the yard unlit by streetlights because of Charlie's air rifle and where no car would desecrate its stillness and the dark velvet of its shadows with the cold incandescence of its lights, I crept close to the sleeping whaleback of the hay-breathing house. I stole past the oaken veneer majesty of my parents' door, and finally warm in the acrylic goose down of my bed above orchards and cockcrow and the sailing ship moon on the skating pond; I slept until dawn sped back the whole farm and the cattle and the soft-eyed horses back to the darkest corner of my room where the sun never shines and socks can sometimes be found amid the slut's wool.
 
And then it was afternoon: and all the cousins, friends of friends, who had been stuffed into spare rooms and cautioned to nap because they had stayed up all night in candy-caned anticipation of catching Santa and delayed for a day his return to the department store throne, were awakened and sent off into the streets. And, waking from a dream in which I chased the blue and white stocking-capped boys, bigger boys from the skating rink at City Hall, glimpsed once on television, I dress in my fur-lined boots, was stuffed into station wagons with protesting uncles who drove as though the football games of all the world were punting in the shadows of the last-minute goalposts. And then we were sliding down the slopes of everlasting snow, everlasting for as long as the machine flew Niagaras of chipped ice over its diesel-throbbing back. And there, in that spinning time, I have my ski-lift ticket stapled to me, as though I were my own receipt for being, and hug for dear day the live cable that pulls me to the top and almost doesn't let go, and then I am poised on last year's skis, and am ready to take my turn. And then I do that. And I do it again, and then I come home for tea, uncles and the barracks of my Christmas soon-to-be-forgotten child's life.
 
And I remember that Aunt Hetty, who was the centre of attention in the kitchen but was not allowed in to help with the gossip, lay stretched out on the Spanish sofa, her soft, brandy-breath keeping Ernie, her latest lover, stupefied. Then Uncle Herbert appeared from the depths of the basement like a drunken porpoise and chased the whole kitchen gaggle with a plastic spring of mistletoe, and came to a bad end with his elbow in the gravy boat. Then Father phoned from Number 41 Station to say that he had been in the eggnog again and that he would be detained, and Mother drank the cooking sherry, and the turkey went unbasted. Then Uncle Frank who had been a stockbroker and then a convict tried again to dance the Windfall of '65 and fell through the picture window. Then the neighbours knocked on the wall and we knocked on the neighbour's wall and then the police came.
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for DECEMBER 16, 2023 release.

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES:  under/over $20 for DECEMBER 16, 2023 release.

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at  https://pages.pathcom.com/~dtudor since 1994. These notes for  better or best wines available through  LCBO Vintages (on a bi-weekly basis)  can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca  or at https://pages.pathcom.com/~dtudor No winery can buy their way into – or out of – this publication.

Scores are a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, e.g. a Southern Rhone would taste like a Southern Rhone) and QPR (Quality/Price Ratio value in the marketplace, above or below its price).
I was one of the first to jump on the Robert Parker bandwagon, using numerical indications for scores. Why? Because with a database I could rate, rank and order wines in any fashion. It was just so convenient using databases. Unfortunately, the numerical system has been shown to be disgraced by overuse and "inflated numbers", so I am quitting any ranking by number. From now on, it will just be GOOD, BETTER and BEST, which will give me some wiggle room (e.g. is this wine an 87, 88, 89, or 90? Or all of them...depends on my mood and time of day). With the rigorous standards and lab testing by the LCBO, I can safely say that every single wine at the LCBO is at least GOOD, which I would numerically rank at 75-85 points. For reasons of time and space, I will NOT be listing the GOOD wines. Just the BETTER (86-89) and the BEST (90+ ) wines. This spread of points will relate to SILVER and GOLD medals, with BRONZE being "GOOD".  Significantly, this also fits into my scheme for trade tastings (as noted below).

MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )

MAJOR THEME:  Bubbles, Bubbles, Bubbles!

Wines Under $20
=========
W+311456 ZONTE'S FOOTSTEP EXCALIBUR SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022  AUSTRALIA $19.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
W+251470 TRIUS DISTINCTION BARREL FERMENTED CHARDONNAY 2021 VQA $19.95 MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )
W+389726 BOYA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023 CHILE $17.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
W+573683 FERZO ABRUZZO PECORINO SUPERIORE 2022  $18.95 MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )
W+919514 WITHER HILLS SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022  NZ $19.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
W+20970 LE BONHEUR CHARDONNAY 2022  SOUTH AFRICA $18.25 MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )
R+261867 FABRE MONTMAYOU RESERVA MALBEC 2021 ARGENTINA $17.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+34606 SANTA EMA 60/40 BARREL RESERVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON/CARMENÈRE $19.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+224915 DOMAINES ANDRÉ AUBERT VISAN CÔTES DU RHÔNE-VILLAGES 2022 $17.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+908079 BENI DI BATASIOLO NEBBIOLO 2020 $19.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)

Wines Over $20
=========
Rose+493171 OYSTER BAY ROSÉ 2022 NZ $20.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
W+360297 JACKSON-TRIGGS NIAGARA GRAND RESERVE WHITE MERITAGE 2021  $29.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
W+685222 LA CHABLISIENNE GRANDE CUVÉE CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2021  $54.95 MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )
W+82255 ROGER & DIDIER RAIMBAULT SANCERRE 2022 $39.95 MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )
W+485854 CHÂTEAU DE NAGES JT WHITE 2021 Rhone $29.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+594002 JACKSON-TRIGGS GRAND RESERVE MERITAGE 2020 VQA $32.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+35464 LOUIS AINE & FILS MORGON 2022 BEAUJOLAIS $22.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+13438 CHÂTEAU DE MONTFAUCON BARON LOUIS LIRAC 2018 Rhone $32.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+16210 CHÂTEAU MAUCOIL PRIVILÈGE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2020 $62.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+994095 ALTESINO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2018 $64.95 MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )
R+574251 FANTI POGGIO TORTO ROSSO 2020 Tuscany $23.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)

FIZZ --  recommended (but not rated) bubbles from the December 16 release...

+105353 CA' DEL BOSCO CUVÉE PRESTIGE EXTRA BRUT FRANCIACORTA $46.95
+113035 PELLER ESTATES SIGNATURE SERIES ICE CUVÉE ROSÉ SPARKLING VQA $36.95
+14421 FLAT ROCK TWISTED SPARKLING 2021 VQA $19.95
+520411 VIENI SPARKLING RIESLING VQA $19.95
+284547 PELLER ESTATES SIGNATURE SERIES CLASSIC ICE CUVÉE SPARKLING VQA $35.95
+183624 CAVE DE RIBEAUVILLÉ GIERSBERGER BRUT CRÉMANT D'ALSACE $22.95
+32269 MONTGERMONT CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE BLANC DE NOIRS BRUT $28.95
+178137 LOUIS BOUILLOT PERLE RARE BRUT CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE 2018 $22.95
+32270 PITARS EXTRA DRY PROSECCO 2021 $25.95
+302752 SANTA MARGHERITA BRUT ROSÉ SPARKLING $21.95
+16836 GRAN BARÓN BRUT RESERVA CAVA 2020 $18.95


LTO -- LIMITED TIME OFFERS: Some Recommended Wines from the LCBO's Limited Time Offers selections...these  are good value...on sale through Sunday December 31
 
W+250696 Banfi Principessa Gavia Gavi Piedmont now $18.95, save $3
W+350041 Paco & Lola Albarino Rias Baixas Spain now $21.95, save $3
W+38117 Vineland Estates Elevation St. Urban Vineyard Riesling VQA Niagara now $19.95, save $3
R+229781 A to Z Wineworks Pinot Noir Oregon now $26.95, save $3
R+337238 Concha Y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon Puente Alto Chile now $21.95, save $3
R+259721 E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone $21.95, save $3
R+177345 Muga Reserva Rioja now $24.95, save $4
R+590414 Oyster Bay Pinot Noir Marlborough NZ now $19.95, save $3
R+741769 Rocca delle Macie Chianti Classico Tuscany now $17.95, save $3
R+303800 Trius Red VQA Niagara now $24.95, save $3
R+225086 Umberto Cesari Liano Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon IGT Rubicone, Emilia-Romagna now $24.95, save $5
Fizz+147504  13th Street Cuvee Brut Sparkling Rose Trad. Method VQA Niagara now $28.95, save $3
 [splurge]R+433417 Tedeschi Amarone Della Valpolicella Veneto now $46.95, save $3

** Some New Wines I Tasted Over the Past Season ---

REPORT ON TASTING OF WINES FROM CHATEAU D'AIGUEVILLE COTES DU RHONE AND HENRI DE VILLAMONT BEAUNE BURGUNDY
The Date and Time: July 27, 12:30 - 3PM
The Event: Chateau d'Aigueville and Henri de Villamont wine tasting.
The Venue: National Club
The Target Audience: wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: the wines will mostly be available at LCBO/Vintages over the next little while, before Christmas in most cases.
The Quote/Background: Domain Henri de Villamont (Savigny-les-Beaune) is one of the oldest producers in the region, with ten hectares in the Cote de Beaune (Savigny) and Cote de Nuits (Chambolle-Musigny). A wide range of appellations are matured in 4,000 barrels in their cellars. We sampled six different wines. From the organic certified Chateau d'Aigueville in the Southern Rhone (soon to be biodynamic with the 2023 harvest), we sampled six more wines. Both wineries are owned by the Schenk family wine merchants of Switzerland (in all, Schenk harvests 3500 hectares of vineyards world-wide).
The Wines: Prices are estimated retail...

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Chateau d'Aigueville Vin de France La Source Blanc 2021 (mostly clairette)
-Henri de Villamont Bourgogne Chardonnay Prestige 2021 ($24)
-Henri de Villamont Macon-Villages 2018 ($29)
-Henri de Villamont Pouilly-Fuisse Grumes d'Or 2020 ($53)
-Henri de Villamont Santenay Les Champs-Claude 2017  ($43)
-Henri de Villamont Savigny-Les-Beaune Le Village 2019  ($59)
-Chateau d'Aigueville Cotes du Rhone Massif d'Uchaux 2020

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Henri de Villamont Bourgogne Pinot Noir Prestige 2021  ($24)
-Chateau d'Aigueville Cotes du Rhone Rouge 2021
-Chateau d'Aigueville Cotes du Rhone Blanc 2022
-Chateau d'Aigueville Cotes du Rhone Villages 2019
-Chateau d'Aigueville Vin de France La Rosee Rouge 2022 (all syrah)

The Food: iced heritage tomato caprese salad, followed by a large chicken supreme with veggies, and with fresh berries and ice cream for dessert.
The Downside: I had to leave early due to a prior engagement.
The Upside: it was hot outside but nicely chilled inside.
The Contact Person: Tom Noitsis-- sales@eurovintage.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 91


Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Tuesday, December 12, 2023

TEN OF THE BEST WINE AND DRINK BOOKS PUBLISHED IN 2023...

TEN of the Best Wine and Drink Books Published in 2023....

The Wine List: Stories and Tasting Notes Behind the World's Most Remarkable Bottles, 
by Grant Reynolds. 
Publisher: Union Square & Co.

The New French Wine: Redefining the World's Greatest Wine Culture [Two-Book Boxed Set],
by Jon Bonné. 
Publisher: Ten Speed Press.


Agave Spirits: The Past, Present, and Future of Mezcals,
by David Suro Piñera and Gary Paul Nabhan. 
Publisher: W. W. Norton & Company.

The Encyclopedia of Cocktails: The People, Bars & Drinks, with More Than 100 Recipes,
by Robert Simonson. 
Publisher: Ten Speed Press.

Gin A Tasting Course: A Flavor-focused Approach to the World of Gin,
by Anthony Gladman. 
Publisher: DK Books [Random House].

How to Make Better Cocktails: Cocktail Techniques, Pro-Tips and Recipes,
by Sebastian Hamilton-Mudge, Natalia Garcia Bourke, and Andy Shannon. 
Publisher: Octopus Books.

Juke Joints, Jazz Clubs, and Juice: Cocktails From Two Centuries of African-American Cookbooks, 
by Toni-Tipton Martin. 
Publisher: Clarkson Potter.

The Maison Premiere Almanac: Cocktails, Oysters, Absinthe, and Other Essential Nutrients for the Sensualist, Aesthete, and Flaneur, 
by Joshua Boissy, Krystof Zizka, Jordan MacKay, and William Elliott. 
Publisher: Clarkson Potter.


Strong, Sweet and Bitter: Your Guide to All Things Cocktails, Bartending and Booze from Behind the Bar,
by Cara Devine. 
Publisher:  Hardie Grant.

Tropical Standard: Cocktail Techniques & Reinvented Recipes,
by Garret Richard and Ben Schaffer. 
Publisher: Countryman Press.


Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Monday, December 11, 2023

REPORT ON MARK ANTHONY PORTFOLIO TASTING September 2023

REPORT ON MARK ANTHONY PORTFOLIO TASTING September 2023

The Date and Time: Monday September 25, 2023   5P-9P
The Event: Mark Anthony's Port to Place Portfolio Tasting
The Venue: Second Floor Events King Street west
The Target Audience: private buyers, sommeliers, wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: There was a paper listing, with label photo, for all of the wines and spirits, and with prices. It was arranged alphabetically (for the most part) by winery or ownership, or by first name. They did a good job for all of the details of all of the products.
The Wines: I did not try wines that were available at the LCBO. Nor did I try any fortified wines or spirits or seltzers. Prices are retail, for the consignment (con) and private orders (po).

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Alois Lageder Chardonnay Alto Adige 2022, $20.95 private order
-Alois Lageder Porer Pinot Grigio 2022, $33.95 po
-Attems Ramato DOC Fruili Rose 2022, $24 con
-Bertani Amarone della Valpolicella Valpantena DOCG 2019, $59.95 con
-Bertani Soave Original Vintage Edition DOC 2022, +36341 con Dec 2023, $27.25
-Brotte Domaine Barville Red CDP 2018, $60.95  po
-Brumont Montus Pacherenc Vich Bihl 2015, $43.95  con
-Chateau St Jean Chardonnay 2021, $19.95 po
-Chateau St Jean Cinq Cepages Sonoma 2018, $132 con
-Henkell Cremant de Loire Brut AOC NV, Vintages, $21.95
-Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Noirs NV $42.25 con
-Segura Viudas Heredad Cava NV Vintages December $39.95
-Mission Hill Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2022, $24.95 con
-Checkmate Fool's Mate Chardonnay 2019, $95
-Lanson Black Label Champagne NV, %86.75
-Lanson Rose Champagne NV, $79.95 po
-Lanson Le Vintage 2012, $99.95
-Davis Bynum Chardonnay 2021 $34.95  po
-Tenuta Luce Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2018 $165.95  con
-Gabbiano Riserva Chianti Classico 2028  $24.65  con
-Wynns Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon  2019 Vintages $47.95

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Alois Lageder Terra Alpina Pinot Grigio 2022, $21.95 consignment
-Arboleda Chardonnay 2021 Chile $19.95 po
-Arboleda Sauvignon Blanc 2021, $14.95 po
-Brotte Cotes du Rhone Villages Cairanne Creation Grosset 2020, $21.95 po
-Brotte Cotes du Rhone Villages Laudun Bord Elegance 2022, $18.95 po
-Austin Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, $29.95 con
-Martin's Lane Simes Pinot Noir 2019, $99.95 con
-Louis Latour Macon Lugny Les Genievres 2020 $29.95 con
-Rodney Strong  Sonoma Chardonnay 2020 $19.25 con
-The Wine Group Kung Fu Girl Riesling 2022 $17.95  con
-The Wine Group Band of Roses 2021  $26.95  po
-The Wine Group Imagery Sauvignon Blanc 2022  Vintages  $23.95

The Food: there were cheese and charcuterie boards loaded with salami, Celtic blue cheese, Beemster cheese, rye crisps, grapes, various fruit sauces (peaches, etc.)
The Downside: the food disappeared quickly (but then, this is a wine tasting not a food tasting).
The Upside: a chance to evaluate recent vintages
The Contact Person: scaputo@markanthonywineandspirits.ca;
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 89




Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Thursday, December 7, 2023

REPORT ON A RELAXING SUMMER SATURDAY AFTERNOON TASTING September 2023

REPORT ON A RELAXING SUMMER SATURDAY AFTERNOON TASTING September 2023


I was invited by Giovanni Silvestri of Rome's International Marketing Communications to a small group tasting at Restaurant Deco in Toronto's Junction (Keele and Dundas). Actually, it was a family-style lunch with wine and with kids. Deco was still springing back from the pandemic: they had opened just before covid-19 attacked. There were seven adults here, and we tasted the wines with multiple food courses. For food we had shareable platters of Italian chewy breads with porchetta and olive oils, followed by caprese with fresh local tomatoes and fresh mozzarella. There were two hot courses: one with short pasta and guancale in Roman style, and another with gnocchi bolognese. There were six wines, and the tasting was led by Giovanni who also represents Gambrero Rosso Worldtour. Full disclosure--he's also the brand ambassador for Casale del Giglio wines:


**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Casale del Griglio Bellone 2022 Lazio IGT 13.5% ABV. Bellone as a grape harkens back to Roman times but it has once again risen to its potential in sales with a "juicyfruit" tenderness and a long palate. It had been a major seller at our LCBO, and Giovanni points out that it may be coming back. Bellone is also often found in white wine blends in Lazio and Umbria.

-Castello di Gabiano Corte Sauvignon Blanc 2022 Piemonte DOC [organic] 10.50 Euros 13.5% comes from the southern part of Piedmont but still delivers the typical sauvignon blanc herbaceous character so necessary for food wines.

-Castello di Gabiano Adornes Barbera d'Asti Superiore 2015 Piedmont DOCG 14% ABV was my fave of the tasting, with its deep richness and satisfying aging. Aged 18 months, at least six in barriques, and more in the bottle before release. Barbera is the principal red grape of Piedmont, although, of course, it is lighter than barbaresco and barolo (both made from nebbiolo, a different but more tannic grape). Cherry-berry complexity makes the wine approachable, especially the older wines. Look also for what are known as "warm spices" or "pumpkin pie" spices with a shot of vanilla as it is aged in wood.


***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Casale del Griglio Satrico 2022 Lazio Bianco +569806 $18.95 6g/L residual sugar, 13% ABV: made up in stainless with a combo of grapes (chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, trebbiano giallo) almost like a field blend. This results in a good grip based on the grapes, such as herbs and grass, orchard fruit, lemons, and an underlying minerality. A good wine to sip on the patio or deck.

-Anselmi San Vincenzo 2022 Veneto IGT +948158 $19.95 5g/L residual sugar, 12.5% ABV is much like Soave with its garganega grape blended with chardonnay and sauvignon blanc, exhibiting flowers and plums, even aromas of red currants. It's off-dry and best with food as a first course.

-Castello di Gabiano La Bruja Barbera d'Asti 2020 Piedmont DOCG 14.5% ABV was fermented in concrete (60%) and then aged for a year. Expect a variety of red fruits such as sour cherry, strawberry and raspberry. Better years will have a shot of dark fruit such as black cherry or blackberry nuances. The higher acid makes the wine more food-friendly as the wine cuts through the rich creams and sauces.



Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures


Virus-free.www.avg.com

Monday, December 4, 2023

STOCKING STUFFERS for the Holidays

Stocking stuffer books should be at the very top of everybody's gift list: something affordable from under $10 up to $25 or so, and that can also double as a host gift, being something small and lightweight. And of course, they can all stuff an adult stocking.

Typical for food are:

--DINNER WITH JANE AUSTEN; menus inspired by her novels and letters (CICO Books, 2023, 64 pages, ISBN 978-1-80065-264-4 $19.99 CAD hardbound) is by Pen Vogler who has written many such historical British cookbooks (Tea with Jane Austen, Dinner with Mr. Darcy, Dinner with Dickens, et al). These are Regency menus and dinners that have been fully updated for modern times: the originals are next to the updates. There are five menus with notes about the times and about compelling dishes. For example, there is Mrs. Bennet's Dinner to Impress from Pride and Prejudice (fresh pea soup, partridges with bread sauce, spiced mushrooms, and everlasting syllabub). There is also a bibliography and an index. A top book for the top of your stocking stuffers. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.

--MAGNIFICENT MEALS IN A BOWL COOKBOOK; healthy, fast, easy recipes with vegan-and-keto-friendly choices (Fox Chapel Publishing, 2016, 2023, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-4971-0384-9, $18.99 CAD softbound) is by Gabrielle Garcia. It's derived from three other bowl books authored by Garcia. This makes for a good compilation at the entry level for a variety of 150 savoury dishes -- each in a bowl. The table of contents include preps for breakfast, combo salads, green salads, sandwiches, pasta and noodles, grain bowls, and rice bowls. Each is easy to make, starting with a basic bowl of bacon and eggs with kale, moving through chicken bruschetta salad, cabbage with eggs and lo main, shrimp and beet barley bowls, and sweet and sour items atop rice. A good choice for beginning or solo cooks. Nice rich close-up photos. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.

-- COMFORT FOOD ESSENTIALS; over 100 delicious recipes for all-time favorite feel-good foods (Fox Chapel Publishing, 2023, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-4971-0320-7, $22.99 CAD softbound) is by chef-owner Kim Wilcox (It's All So Yummy Cafe in Knoxville, Tennessee).
Her preps cover the basic three meals of breakfast, lunch, dinner, with other material on sides, soups, "childhood comforts", snacks, breads, toppings, condiments, et al. It is a good basic entry-level cookbook, useful for new families, college students, singles and solos beginning life away from home. The comforts of home can be replicated here. It's loaded with tips and advice. A good starter book, and a great stocking stuffer. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.


Other little books for beverages include those on beer, wine and spirits:

--IT'S NO FUN WITHOUT RUM! 50 fabulous recipes for rum-based cocktails from mai tai to mojito (Dog 'n' Bone, 2023, 64 pages, ISBN 978-1-912983-78-0 $12.99 USD hardbound) is a publisher's book with 11 different contributors: Ben Reed has largest number of recipes (15), followed by Michael Butt (13). It's a basic handy guide to a pile of delicious rum cocktail preps. We all know daiquiri, pina colada, planter's punch, cuba libre, and hurricane. But do we know officer's nightcap? Or tiki negroni? Or graham cracker crunch? We do now. Nifty photos. A good book to serve as a host gift or stocking stuffer. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.


--JUST A SPRITZ: 57 simple sparkling sips with low to no alcohol (Artisan, 2022, 176 pages, $25 hardbound) is by Danielle Centoni, with Eric Medsker as photographer. The Italian export, the Aperol spritz, with its classic (and simple) makeup of fizzy prosecco, sparkling water, and a splash of the bittersweet, citrus-flavored liqueur, is just the beginning. In Just a Spritz, Danielle Centoni shares a world of spritz variations. Add in sweet liqueurs and bitter amari, fresh juices, flavored kombuchas, and drinking vinegars to update the sparkling spritz. A spritz is quick to assemble and does not require a stocked pantry. Here there are more than 50 recipes (and numerous variations) organized by flavor profile and theme, including the Raspberry Beret, the Margarita Spritz, and the Cucumberbatch, as well as nonalcoholic spritz drinks. For a spritz newbie, a classic Negroni Sbagliato may be just the thing. Or the fruity-floral, scarlet-purple, picture-perfect Lady Lavender. Whatever the craving, from a sweet peach spritz to a slightly bitter and citric Cappelletti Shandy, there's a recipe to satisfy every thirst, along with colourful photos. Remember, these are all LO-AL or NO-AL concoctions. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.

Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Tuesday, November 28, 2023

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for the DECEMBER 2, 2023 release.

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES:  under/over $20 for the DECEMBER 2, 2023 release.

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at  https://pages.pathcom.com/~dtudor since 1994. These notes for good wines available through  LCBO Vintages (on a bi-weekly basis)  can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca  or at https://pages.pathcom.com/~dtudor No winery can buy their way into – or out of – this publication.

Scores are a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, e.g. a Southern Rhone would taste like a Southern Rhone) and QPR (Quality/Price Ratio value in the marketplace above or below its price).
I was one of the first to jump on the Robert Parker bandwagon, using numerical indications for scores. Why? Because with a database I could rate, rank and order wines in any fashion. It was just so convenient using databases. Unfortunately, the numerical system has been shown to be disgraced, so I am quitting any ranking by number. From now on, it will just be GOOD, BETTER and BEST, which will give me some wiggle room (e.g. is this wine an 87, 88, 89, or 90? Or all of them...depends on my mood and time of day). With the rigorous standards and lab testing by the LCBO, I can safely say that every single wine at the LCBO is at least GOOD, which I would numerically rank at 75-85 points. For reasons of time and space, I will NOT be listing GOOD wines. Just the BETTER (86-89) and BEST (90+ ) wines. This spread of points will probably relate to SILVER and GOLD medals, with BRONZE being "GOOD".  Significantly, this also fits into my scheme for trade tastings (as noted below).

MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )

THEME: FINE WINES FOR FESTIVE ENTERTAINING

Wines Under $20
===============
W+734798 THORNBURY SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022 NZ $18.95 MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )
W+12679 MATAHIWI ESTATE PINOT GRIS 2022 NZ $19.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
W+23254 VIÑA MAYOR VERDEJO 2021 SPAIN $16.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
W+461327 BERONIA RUEDA VERDEJO 2022 SPAIN $15.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+23905 KNAPPSTEIN CLARE VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020 OZ $19.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+131540 FEATHERSTONE RED TAIL MERLOT 2021 VQA NIAGARA $19.95 MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )


Wines Over $20
==============

W+32570 PETER LEHMANN WIGAN EDEN VALLEY RIESLING 2016 OZ $29.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
W+424507 WESTCOTT ESTATE CHARDONNAY 2021 VQA NIAGARA $29.95 MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )
W+466144 J. MOREAU & FILS GLORIE DE CHABLIS 2022 $32.95 MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )
R+484303 CATENA APPELLATION AGRELO CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020 CHILE $23.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+50849 KAIKEN ULTRA MALBEC 2020 ARGENTINA $22.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+84996 WYNNS COONAWARRA ESTATE BLACK LABEL CABERNET SAUVIGNON $47.95 MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )
R+10138 QUEENSTON MILE PINOT NOIR 2017 VQA NIAGARA $40 MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )
R+312058 STRATUS RED 2020 VQA NIAGARA $55 MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )
R+26296 CHÂTEAU GEMEILLAN 2014 BORDEAUX $26.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+24755 E. GUIGAL CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2018 $68.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+261784 PAPALE LINEA ORO PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIA 2019 PUGLIA $26.80 MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )
R+747030 LA VITE LUCENTE 2021 TUSCANY $34.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)

FIZZ -- recommended, but not rated
+967398 TALTARNI TACHÉ BRUT ROSÉ SPARKLING 2015 OZ $27.55
+528752 BENJAMIN BRIDGE MÉTHODE CLASSIQUE BRUT SPARKLING NOVA SCOTIA $32.95
+234161 JACKSON-TRIGGS ENTOURAGE GRAND RESERVE BRUT SPARKLING 2017 VQA NIAGARA $34.95
+142679 13TH STREET PREMIER CUVÉE SPARKLING 2017 VQA NIAGARA $39.95
+163634 OYSTER BAY BRUT SPARKLING CUVÉE NZ $25.95
 
LTO -- LIMITED TIME OFFERS: Some Recommended Wines from the LCBO's Limited Time Offers selections...these  are good value...on sale  November 27 through Sunday December 31
 
W+250696 Banfi Principessa Gavia Gavi Piedmont now $18.95, save $3
W+350041 Paco & Lola Albarino Rias Baixas Spain now $21.95, save $3
W+038117 Vineland Estates Elevation St. Urban Vineyard Riesling VQA Niagara now $19.95, save $3
R+229781 A to Z Wineworks Pinot Noir Oregon now $26.95, save $3
R+337238 Concha Y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon Puente Alto Chile now $21.95, save $3
R+259721 E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone $21.95, save $3
R+177345 Muga Reserva Rioja now $24.95, save $4
R+590414 Oyster Bay Pinot Noir Marlborough NZ now $19.95, save $3
R+741769 Rocca delle Macie Chianti Classico Tuscany now $17.95, save $3
R+303800 Trius Red VQA Niagara now $24.95, save $3
R+225086 Umberto Cesari Liano Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon IGT Rubicone, Emilia-Romagna now $24.95, save $5
Fizz+147504  13th Street Cuvee Brut Sparkling Rose Trad. Method VQA Niagara now $28.95, save $3
[splurge]R+433417 Tedeschi Amarone Della Valpolicella Veneto now $46.95, save $3


REPORT ON THE 16th ANNUAL TASTIN' FRANCE trade show, July 2023...
The Date and Time: Monday July 10, 2023   11A - 4PM
The Event: Tastin' France: a B2B event with French wine producers seeking representation in Ontario, Quebec, and other provinces.
The Venue: Toronto Marriott City Centre Hotel, One Blue Jays Way
The Target Audience: wine professionals, buyers, LCBO, some media, etc.
The Availability/Catalogue: Ten producers showed their wines in Toronto, with a total of some 80 samples. The catalogue had a full listing of the products, including grapes and percentages. As well, there were names and addresses for each company, production numbers, and a good description of each winery.
The Quote/Background: This was the 16th annual trade tasting roadshow in three cities: Toronto, Montreal, Vancouver. Previous Toronto hotel sites have included the Park Plaza Hyatt and the Hotel Ochoa.
The Wines: I did not taste every wine.

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Champagne Esterlin Blanc de Blancs Brut Eclat Champagne
-Champagne Esterlin Cleo Blanc de Blancs Brut Champagne 2010  [my fave of the day]
-Champagne Esterlin Brut Nature Champagne 2009
-Champagne Esterlin Brut Eclat Champagne
-Be Bio Chardonnay 2022 IGP Pays d'Oc
-Domaine des Pierettes Eros Rose 2022 [gamay, chenin] Loire
-Cave de Ribeauville Cremant Brut Alsace NV [auxerrois, pinot blanc]
-Cave de Ribeauville Pinot Gris Collection 2022 Alsace
-Cave de Ribeauville Gewurztraminer Collection 2021 Alsace
-Claude Leblanc Pouilly-Fuisse 2020
-Claude Leblanc Pouilly-Fuisse 1er cru 2020
-Claude Leblanc Rully 1er cru blanc Les Marissous 2021
-Claude Leblanc Hautes-Cotes-de-Nuits 2020
-Claude Leblanc Santenay 2020
-Claude Leblanc Nuits-Saint-Georges 2019
-Hesiode Pierre Bourree et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin Village 2018
-Hesiode Pierre Bourree et Fils Nuit-Saint-Georges Village 2020
-Hesiode Pierre Bourree et Fils Pernand-Vergelesses Village 2018
-Fonoya Delta L'Homme Chardonnay 2022 IGP Saint-Guilhem-le-Desert
-Le Cellier du Pic French Toast Rose 2022 IGP Pays d'Oc
-Be Bio Grenache Rose 2022 IGP Pays d'Oc
-Domaine du Vistre Mas du Vistre Blanc IGT Gard
-Vignobles Vellas Naughty Angel Viognier 2022 Languedoc
-Vignobles Vellas Les Silex Fumes Blanc 2022 IGP Saint Guilhem Le Desert
-Chateau Les Vergnes Blanc 2022 Bordeaux

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Champagne Esterlin Ex Solera Champagne NV
-Champagne Esterlin Pur Meunier Champagne NV
-Domaine des Pierettes Sen'S Sauvignon Blanc 2022 Touraine  [organic]
-Vignoble Demois L'ane Blanc 2020 Chinon
-Vignoble Demois L'ane Rose 2020 Chinon
-Cave de Ribeauville Riesling Collection Alsace 2020
-Claude Leblanc Saint-Veran 2022
-Hesiode Le Bois Braud Muscadet Sevre et Maine sur Lie 2021 Loire
-Hesiode Laudacious Brut Nature NV Montlouis-sur-Loire
-Hesiode Pierre Bourree et Fils Auxey-Duresses Village 2016
-Domaine de Mayal Oplezir Rose 2022 Luberon
-Domaine de Mayal Cuvee Classique Blanc 2022 Luberon
-Domaine du Vistre Mas du Vistre Rose IGT Gard
-Vignobles Vellas Chai d'Oeuvre Sauvignon Blanc 2022 Languedoc
-Vignobles Vellas Mrs. Seafood 2021 Languedoc
-Vignobles Vellas Poison Rose 2022 Languedoc
-Vignobles Vellas Naturellement Pur Orange Wine 2021 Languedoc
-Chateau Les Vergnes Rose 2022 Bordeaux
-Univitis Grand Theatre Blanc 2022 Bordeaux
-Univitis Grand Theatre Rose 2022 Bordeaux

The Food: we were given disposable "Bento" boxes of charcuterie, fromages, grapes, nuts, and crackers. Plus unlimited coffee and tea.
The Downside: the Marriott was a bit awkward to get to via TTC since it had a separate entrance to the Rogers Centre. Also, inside there was an enormous walk to the extra-spacious and extra-high ballroom where the tasting was held. I felt a lot like Alice.
The Upside: a great opportunity to taste some fabulous wines from France that are not currently being listed at the LCBO.
The Contact Person: romane.champion.int@businesfrance.fr; rodolphe.desobry@businessfrance.fr
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 87.

Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Sunday, November 26, 2023

LTO -- LIMITED TIME OFFERS Mon Nov 27 to end of the year....

LTO -- LIMITED TIME OFFERS: Some Recommended Wines from the LCBO's Limited Time Offers selections...these  are "better" value wines...on sale Monday November 27 through Sunday December 31
 
W+250696 Banfi Principessa Gavia Gavi Piedmont now $18.95, save $3
W+350041 Paco & Lola Albarino Rias Baixas Spain now $21.95, save $3
W+038117 Vineland Estates Elevation St. Urban Vineyard Riesling VQA Niagara now $19.95, save $3
R+229781 A to Z Wineworks Pinot Noir Oregon now $26.95, save $3
R+337238 Concha Y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon Puente Alto Chile now $21.95, save $3
R+259721 E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone $21.95, save $3
R+177345 Muga Reserva Rioja now $24.95, save $4
R+590414 Oyster Bay Pinot Noir Marlborough NZ now $19.95, save $3
R+741769 Rocca delle Macie Chianti Classico Tuscany now $17.95, save $3
R+303800 Trius Red VQA Niagara now $24.95, save $3
R+225086 Umberto Cesari Liano Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon IGT Rubicone, Emilia-Romagna now $24.95, save $5
Fizz+147504  13th Street Cuvee Brut Sparkling Rose Trad. Method VQA Niagara now $28.95, save $3
[splurge]R+433417 Tedeschi Amarone Della Valpolicella Veneto now $46.95, save $3


Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Wednesday, November 15, 2023

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for NOVEMBER 18, 2023 release.

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES:  under/over $20 for NOVEMBER 18, 2023 release.

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at  https://pages.pathcom.com/~dtudor since 1994. These notes for good wines available through  LCBO Vintages (on a bi-weekly basis)  can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca  or at https://pages.pathcom.com/~dtudor No winery can buy their way into – or out of – this publication.

Scores are a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, e.g. a Southern Rhone would taste like a Southern Rhone) and QPR (Quality/Price Ratio value in the marketplace above or below its price).
I was one of the first to jump on the Robert Parker bandwagon, using numerical indications for scores. Why? Because with a database I could rate, rank and order wines in any fashion. It was just so convenient using databases. Unfortunately, the numerical system has been shown to be disgraced, so I am quitting any ranking by number. From now on, it will just be GOOD, BETTER and BEST, which will give me some wiggle room (e.g. is this wine an 87, 88, 89, or 90? Or all of them...depends on my mood and time of day). With the rigorous standards and lab testing by the LCBO, I can safely say that every single wine at the LCBO is at least GOOD, which I would numerically rank at 75-85 points. For reasons of time and space, I will NOT be listing GOOD wines. Just the BETTER (86-89) and BEST (90+ ) wines. This spread of points will probably relate to SILVER and GOLD medals, with BRONZE being "GOOD".  Significantly, this also fits into my scheme for trade tastings (as noted below).

MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )

MAJOR THEME:  PREMIUM WINES FOR THE HOLIDAYS


Wines Under $20
=========
R+642421 CANTINA VALPANTENA TORRE DEL FALASCO VALPOLICELLA RIPASSO VENETO $18.95 MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )
FIZZ+281329 JOSEPH CATTIN BRUT CRÉMANT D'ALSACE NV $18.95 MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )

W+29823 BOECKEL RIESLING 2021 ALSACE $18.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
W+33294 IONA SOPHIE TE'BLANCHE 2022 SOUTH AFRICA $19.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+640854 SALENTEIN RESERVE MALBEC 2021 ARGENTINA $19.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+19274 SALENTEIN PORTILLO PINOT NOIR 2021 ARGENTINA $17.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+34814 VINALBA RESERVA MALBEC/SYRAH 2021 ARGENTINA $19.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+297317 XAVIER VIGNON CÔTES DU RHÔNE 2020 $17.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+35622 VIA CARITATIS VOX ANGELORUM 2020 RHONE $19.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+31701 CHÂTEAU LAVAL 2021 RHONE $17.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+32757 ANTONINI MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO 2020 $19.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+983742 L.A. CETTO PETITE SIRAH 2020 MEXICO 519B 12 $14.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+363168 TOM DE BATON 2021 PORTUGAL $16.95  MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+31197 SOGEVINUS VEEDHA RED 2020 PORTUGAL $15.95MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
FIZZ+632265 VILLA CONCHI BRUT ROSÉ CAVA NV $17.95  MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)

Wines Over $20
=========
W+256552 CAVE SPRING ESTATE GROWN CHARDONNAY 2019 VQA NIAGARA $21.95 MVC/QPR: BEST (91+ )
W+290296 E. GUIGAL CÔTES DU RHÔNE BLANC 2022  $23.95 MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )
R+505610 HIDDEN BENCH TERROIR CACHÉ 2019 $44.95 MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )
FIZZ+15688 BENJAMIN BRIDGE MÉTHODE CLASSIQUE BRUT ROSÉ SPARKLING NV NOVA SCOTIA $34.95 MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )

W+172338 SOUTHBROOK TRIOMPHE ORGANIC CHARDONNAY 2019 VQA NIAGARA $26.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
W+32959 ANDRÉ GOICHOT POUILLY-FUISSÉ 1ER CRU 2021 $49.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
W+994012 FALCHINI VIGNA A SOLATÌO VERNACCIA DI SAN GIMIGNANO 2022 TUSCANY  $23.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+333229 WYNNS COONAWARRA ESTATE THE SIDING CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2021 24.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+32282 HAYWIRE SECREST MOUNTAIN PINOT NOIR 2020 VQA BC $33.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+21400 ORGANIZED CRIME CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2019 VQA NIAGARA $24.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
FIZZ+12619 VILMART ET CIE GRANDE RÉSERVE 1ER CRU CHAMPAGNE NV $82.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)

[The following LTOs are on sale from Nov 6 through Nov 26]:

Fizz+991562  Bailly Lapierre Brut Cremant de Bourgogne, now $21.45, save $3.50
W+958975  Mer Soleil Reserve Chardonnay Monterey, now $26.95, save $3
W+324228  Stoneleigh Latitude Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough NZ, now $19.95, save $3
R+274753  Hidden Bench Pinot Noir Beamsville Bench VQA, now $34.95, save $3
R+36483  Torres Gran Coronas Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon Penedes Spain, $20.95, save $3
Splurge+356220  Tommasi Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico Superiore Veneto, $47.95, save $5
Splurge+650432  Castelgiocondo Brunello de Montalcino Tuscany, $49.95, save $5



** Some New Wines I Tasted Over the Past Season ---

REPORT ON THE ANNUAL LIVING VINE ACID TRIP PORFOLIO TASTING, June 2023...
The Date and Time:  Sunday June 18, 2023   1P - 5PM
The Event: The Annual Living Vine Acid Trip Try-and-Buy Portfolio Tasting
The Venue: Society Clubhouse, College Street
The Target Audience: wine media, private clients, restaurants.
The Availability/Catalogue: everything was available on some 15 tables, with label names, vintage dates, case quantities (6 or 12), and retail/licensee prices for each wine.
The Quote/Background: Mark Cuff, who runs The Living Vine, has been a sustainable/green/organic/biodynamic wiz for a couple of decades now. His annual portfolio tasting is one of the best in town, with many new brands and a diversified audience (in attendance, there were as many babies as seniors!).
The Wines: I did not taste all the 100 or so wines and ciders. As is my wont, I concentrated on the summery white wines. The ciders from Cidre Fleuri were phenomenal: Piccolino, Joe, Klaus, Willie, Rosie – all in 473ml containers at $7.75 each. There were also 750 ml bottles of cider: Terrain Vague, Niagara Place, Villefranche, and Franconia at $20 each. I did not taste the non-alcoholic wines ("Proxies") or the kombucha or the spirits. Prices are retail...

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Chateau Grand Launay Blanc 2022, $27.95  [my fave of the show]
-Poggio Piccolo Chianti 2020, $29.95
-Poggio Piccolo Vermentino 2020, $28.95
-Antica Enotria Bianco 2021, $20.95
-Montesecondo 2021, $32.95
-Villa Papiano Strada Corniolo 2020, $39.95
-Cantina Fiorentino Madreterra 2021, $24.95
-Patch Pinot Grigio 2022, $21.95
-Poivre d'Ane White 2021, $26.95
-Texier Chateauneuf du Pape VV 2020, $94.95
-Supernatural Sauvignon Blanc 2020, $32.95
-Smallfry Tangerine Dream 2022, $39.95
-El Bandito Cortez 2022, $59.95
-Rigour and Whimsey Thus Spoke Veruca 2020, $52.95
-Lagasca Viognier 2021, $17.95
-Pomelado Orange Wine 2021, $18.95 [at LCBO}
-Badenhorst Secateurs Chenin Blanc 2022 South Africa, $25.95
-JC Wickens Wines Swerwer White 2023 South Africa, $33.95
-Hidden Bench R & D Chardonnay 2020 VQA, $30


***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Foradori Manzoni Bianco 2021, $43.95
-Dettori Renosu Bianco NV, $38.95
-Domaine Flo Busch Lou Bragalou 2021, $30.95
-Domaine Pinte Chardonnay Arbois 2020, $37.95
-Stephan Rocher Lemon Tree 2022, $31.95
-Mas Goma Cosi Joan Orange NV, $36.95
-Makarounas Aerides 2022, $29.95
-Cam Rd Down the Rabbit Hole 2021, $42.95
-El Bandito Skin 2022, $59.95
-Cellar Credo Volaina Spain 2019, $24.95
-Norte Sur Rosado 2021, $17.95
-Lanzado Orange 2021, $19.95 [at LCBO]
-Badenhorst Curator White 2022 South Africa, $23.95
-Hidden Bench Chardonnay Beton 2021 VQA, $27.95

The Food: some to be purchased
The Downside: the room was surrounded by mirrors, which made it look much more crowded than it actually was.
The Upside: taste and try before you buy
The Contact Person: mark@thelivingvine.ca
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 90






Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Tuesday, November 14, 2023

MY 27th(!!) ANNUAL SURVEY OF FOOD AND DRINK-RELATED BOOKS SUITABLE AS HOLIDAY GIFTS FOR THE 2023 SEASON

ON THE DEAN'S LIST:  

MY 27th(!!)  ANNUAL SURVEY OF FOOD AND DRINK-RELATED BOOKS
SUITABLE AS HOLIDAY GIFTS FOR THE 2023 SEASON

NOVEMBER 15, 2023
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By Dean Tudor,  T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson)  Journalism Professor Emeritus and Gothic Epicures Writing, www.deantudor.com (World Wine Watch Newsletter).
Blog: http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
Twitter: @gothicepicures
Reviewer Timeline: Cookbook Reviewer, Library Journal, 1969-1974; Cookbook Columnist and Lead Reviewer, The Booklist (American Library Association), 1974-1985; CBRA Cookbook Reviewer, 1975-1985; Freelance Cookbook Reviewer, 1985-1999; Gothic Epicures Writing Lead Cookbook Reviewer since 2000-
These food and wine book reviews are always available at www.deantudor.com and at my blog http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
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There are always many new food and wine books out there for people who have picky tastes!! What to choose? I have cast about for material and have come up with a decent selection of materials published mostly in 2023 to satisfy any pocketbook, any host, and any friend or relative. All books and book-like materials that are listed here are RECOMMENDED for gifting, and can be purchased at a discount via Amazon.Ca or Chapters.Indigo.Ca (with free delivery on a total purchase of over $35 or so).

Price Alert: Books listed are in Canadian dollars, but because of CAD and USD fluctuations, all prices of imported books may vary.


Part One: TOP GIFT BOOKS
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A. Art/travel/restaurant cookbooks might be some of the best books to give a loved one (or to yourself, since you are your own best loved one). Most may cost you an arm and a leg. Books for the coffee table have their place in the gift scheme: just about every such book is only bought as a gift! And are often perused first by the donor (you). Don't let the prices daunt you. Such books are available at a discount from online vendors. Because of the "economy", not too many pricey food and wine books were released this year. Herewith, and in random order:

--ALWAYS HUNGRY! (Robert Rose, 2023, 224 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0714-8 $39.95 hardbound) is by Laurent Dagenais,a chef who has worked in the culinary world since he left school. It was originally published in 2022 in French (Toujours Faim!) ; this is the English translation. When he returned to Montreal, he worked his way up to being a manager of several restaurants. He began making food videos, and when the 2020 pandemic closed all bars and restaurants, he created more and more content. A handful of people followed him, and then the pandemic saw his exponential growth to more than 4 million social media followers. In this book there are his 70 fave preps, which include asparagus with wild leek gribiche, a French take on surf-and-turf with prime rib and garlic escargots, and the great Montecristo ham and cheese sandwich. Ethnic considerations include Mexican cuisine, Vietnamese, Louisiana, Quebecois, Middle East -- just about anywhere French is spoken. As one log roller put it: "Laurent's food is fun, exciting, accessible and delicious. If you are always hungry, this cookbook is the key to satisfying that craving". And the colour close-up photos are inventive in their setting and gorgeous. A terrific gift  book. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.

--MANJU'S COOKBOOK; vegetarian Gujarati Indian recipes from a much-loved family restaurant (Ryland Peters & Small, 2023, 176 pages, ISBN 978-1-78879-559-3 $30 USD hardbound) is by Manju Patel who operates a family-run restaurant in Brighton (UK). As of this writing, she's 86 and still cooking for her head chef Dee. Her food categories begin with a primer on Gujarati cuisine (west coast of India, north of Mumbai) and then move through curries, breads-rice-dal, snacks, and street foods. Near the end there are sides, chutneys, pickles, sweets, and drinks. Typical dishes include khandvi, kachori (peas in pastry), eggplant curry, paneer curry, millet flatbread, chakri (crispy swirls), and dahi vada (lentil fritters coated in yogurt). This is a good Indian theme book with many colourful illustrations of fab-looking dishes. Ingredients are mainly listed in Imperial measurements with some metric volumes, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.


--THEO'S FAMILY KITCHEN; 75 recipes for fast feel good food at home (Ryland Peters & Small, 2023, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-78879-558-6 $28 USD hardbound) is by Theo A. Michaels, who works as an Executive Chef – as well as authoring six cookbooks for RP&S. He says: "Feeding my family unprocessed, homecooked meals is important to me and I want to pass on my knowledge so you can do the same." It's also a book for all family members to contribute their time and energies to proper food. He opens up with "How to Cook the Perfect....egg, rice, potatoes, green veggies, fish, chicken, white sauce, tomato sauce, homemade stock, shortcrust pie shell." Indeed, many bachelors could make use of this book. He's got ideas for tasty family meals on weeknights and weekends, plus some family takeout knockoffs to do at home (e.g. fish and chips, pizza, burgers, and fried chicken). Salads, sides and sweets complete the package. Ingredients are mainly listed in Imperial measurements with some metric volumes, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.


--AREPA; classic and contemporary recipes for Venezuela's daily bread (Ryland Peters & Small, 2023, 192 pages, ISBN 978-1-78879-517-3 $30 USD hardbound) is by Irena Stein, owner of Alma Cocina Latina in Baltimore, and by Eduardo Egui, a Venezuelan chef living in Spain, and by David Zamudio, the Executive Chef at Alma Cocina Latina. There's a basic introduction to the bread with notes on its history, with recipes and notes on variations. There are three main chapters: seafood, vegetarian, and meat. Along the way they've got separate sections on appetizers, butters and sauces, some deserts, and drinks. It's fairly comprehensive, and then photography (food and travel) is gorgeous. The book would make a nice hostess gift. One of my faves is the fried egg arepa with spicy marinated veggies and aged cheese. Another is the fried pork arepa with kimchi. Ingredients are mainly listed in Imperial measurements with some metric volumes, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.


--BIBIMBAP & other Asian-inspired rice & noodle bowl recipes (Ryland, Peters & Small, 2023, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-78879-555-5 $25 USD hardbound) is largely by Louise Pickford, a food writer-stylist currently based in France with 15 or so cookbooks to her credit. Five other Ryland food authors' recipes are from Atsuko Ikeda, Jackie Kearney, Kathy Kordalis, Jenny Linford, and Uyen Luu. The book attempts to lay out plans for ease of preparation of rice and noodles: one-pot dishes in soups, salads, and stir-fries based on dishes from Korea, Cambodia, Burma, Japan, Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia. Korea's Bibimbap is the iconic dish (fried egg on top of rice, seasoned veggies, kimchi, and gochujang sauce). Indeed, "bibim" means mixing and "bap" means cooked rice. The dish is often used as a base for many one bowl rice/noodle dishes. Pickford arranges her book by need: the first section is "easy does it", followed by "fresh & cool", "soul satisfying", "warming spice", and "umami rich". As a tested Supertaster, I headed for that last chapter first. She's got BBQ pork noodle bowls with dipping sauce, wild garlic miso pork stir fry, mushroom udon, an ultimate banh mi rice bowl [I didn't miss the baguette at all], and duck red curry over rice – among others. This is a great looking book with all the RP&S food photos in place. Ingredients are mainly listed in Imperial measurements with some metric volumes, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.


--CASABLANCA; my Moroccan food (Firefly Books, 2018, 2023, 224 pages, ISBN 978-0-2281-0086-7, $39.95 CAD hardbound) is by Nargisse Benkabbou, a native of Morocco (www.mymoroccanfood.com) and now living in London. She's done everything such as developing new cooking techniques, recipe development, cooking schools, food photography, and guest chefing. Her book was originally published by Octopus in the UK; this is the North American reissue. Here are 100 recipes for modern and traditional dishes to be served for family and entertaining. Her primer has elements for ras el hanout spice mix, preserved lemons, harissa paste, couscous, Moroccan tea, and, of course, the tagine.  Typical dishes include sweet potato and feta maakouda, artichoke and baby potato and preserved lemon tagine, zucchini and thyme and beef shin tagine, kefta and olive toast, and chicken mchermel. Great photography of the finished plates with (thankfully) few or no touristic photos. But all ingredients are expressed in avoirdupois, not metric. So the book could have been improved if it had also used metric in the recipes, or at least had a metric conversion chart. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.


--THE EDGY VEG; easy eats -- quick, tasty, vegan (Robert Rose, 2022, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0703-2, $34.95 CAD hardbound) is by Candice Hutchings, who produces the Edgy Veg YouTube channel and blog. This is her follow-up to "The Edgy Veg: 138 Carnivore-Approved Vegan Recipes", but it is also a simpler everyday "little sister" to her foundational first book with about 100 new and different but easy preps. She's got a dozen brekkies (pumpkin scones, banana bread muffins, breakfast beans), a dozen salads, a dozen soups, a dozen appetizers, two dozen mains, a dozen sides, six potent potables, and nine desserts. Plus she's got an all-knowing sassy in-your-face-style, just the same as her YouTube channel. Excellent photography, typeface and index. Her four recipe icons are very useful: symbols for "15 minutes or less", "one pot/one pan", "gluten-free" and "great for entertaining". Nothing here takes longer than 45 minutes tops. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both avoirdupois and metric measurements; it is the Robert Rose style. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.


--BEST OF BRIDGE EVERYDAY CELEBRATIONS (Robert Rose, 2023, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0708-7 $34.95 CAD hardbound) is by Emily Richards and Sylvia Kong who have been extending the Best of Bridge franchise by creating new material for new books. They had previously written Best of Bridge Weekday Suppers and Best of Bridge Comfort Food. This latest book has 125 recipes for family and friends on the theme of  everyday celebrations such as home birthdays, entertaining, neighbourhood potlucks, or just a small party for a foursome that is joyous and festive. As such it is very useful for anybody who wishes a basic cook book for the upscale kitchen. Typical dishes include breakfast sandwiches that use speedy bagels, zucchini noodle soup, Asian coleslaw chicken salad with Thai and Vietnamese flavours, instant pot beef stew -- all the warm foods that are quick and easy to make for the cooler seasons. Some updating includes more plant-based options and multi-cultural preps (spatchcocked chicken, veggie pot stickers, crispy Korean fried chicken trips, individual beef Wellington packs, tofu banh mi, cilantro lime rice). But he familiar hand-lettered font has disappeared. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements; so there is no need for a table of equivalents. Quality/Price rating is  91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.


--BEAUTIFUL BOARDS & DELICIOUS CHARCUTERIE FOR EVERY OCCASION (Fox Chapel Publishing, 2023, 136 pages, ISBN 978-1-4971-0383-2 $18.99 CAD softbound) is by Kate Woodson. She's got 100 easy-to-make recipes for meats, cheese, veggies, butter boards, and themed spreads. After a primer the chapters are mainly savoury, with 16 preps for sweet platters such as honey-almond brie, whipped honey ricotta, peanut butter and chocolate hummus, plus some dips. Most of the preps are for savouries such as meat lovers, smoked foods, Mexican, Spanish tapas, a bruschetta board, seasonal boards, French, Italian, Mediterranean, and the like. All of the platyter ideas are laid out nicely with accompanying recipes and photos. Fox Chapel did a good job of condensing all you'll need to know about platters. For two people (or more) everything here can replace TV dinners. With glasses of sparkling wine, this is actually unbeatable while you are streaming. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.
 

--CHARCUTERIE BOARDS; platters, boards, plates & simple recipes to share (Ryland, Peters & Small, 2023, 176 pages, ISBN 978-1-78879-515-9 $34.12  CAD hardbound) is by Miranda Ballard and Louise Pickford. Both are cookbook authors for RP&S, with Ballard having the additional credit of owning five retail butcher shops in the UK. Some of Ballard's preps come from a previous RP&S book published in 2014. The boards are mainly  meats with occasional garnishes of olives, peppers, capers, pickles, breads, cheese, and jams and jellies. There's an Italian board with pesto and local cheeses, a Spanish tapas board with cheeses and sauces, a French board, a Northern European board, a New York deli board, a smoked board, and more. It's a classic book for entertaining, with cold cuts of meat being the main feature surrounded by a variety of other foods. The key is a theme and a layout for the board. Ballard and Pickford provide both. And there is such a wide variety of food accompaniments that it is relatively easy to mix and match within limits. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.


--CUCINA DI AMALFI; sun-drenched recipes from Italy's most magical coastline (Ryland Peters & Small, 192 pages, ISBN 978-1-78879-508-1 $41 CAD hardbound) is by Ursula Ferrigno, chef-food writer and teacher at leading cookery schools in Europe and the US. She's the author of more than 18 cookery books. The Amalfi Coast is just south of Naples, within Campania. The entire La Costiera Amalfitana has been listed as an UNESCO World Heritage Site. Lemons are a major product, as are San Marzano tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, olive oil, and fresh anchovies. Her book has a traditional arrangement from apps through desserts, and along the way there  are memoirs and memories. Excellent photography and watercolours illustrate the book throughout. Check out spiedini de amalfi (pepper and mozzarella skewers), tortine di parmigiano, fried pizza and flat breads, soffiatini (Italian whispers), scallops with lemon and bay leaves, stuffed chicken rolls, many veggies and preserves, and the dolci -- 75 preps in all. The region's cuisine specializes in stuffed fresh fruit. as well as limoncello (dynamite recipe provided). Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.


--COCINA MEXICANA; fresh, vibrant recipes for authentic Mexican food (Ryland Peters & Small, 192 pages, ISBN 978-1-78879-553-1 $41 CAD hardbound) is by Chef Adriana Cavita of Cavita Restaurant in London UK. At one point she was working as Chef de Partie at El Bulli in Spain. She has moved up and down throughout Mexico, and this collection of preps is built around her experiences. So we've got the Baja fish tacos and birria, the Oaxacan pizzas, and specialties of Yucatan. She opens with a primer followed by breakfasts, appetizers, street food, mains, drinks and desserts. One of the chapters deals with making tamales without too many complications, and this includes a charming pineapple tamale. There is a special chapter on celebrations, plus a glossary. Some typical recipes include frijoles con chochoyotes (black beans with corn dumplings), sopa tarasca from the Michoacan area, bean enfrioladas, and many different types of salsas, both raw and cooked.



B. And how about gift books for the beverage drinker? Try –


--COOKING WITH BEER AND BOURBON (Fox Chapel Publishing, 2023, 136 pages, ISBN 978-1-4971-0389-4 $20.99 CDN softbound) is by Hunter Reed. It's loaded with 124 preps that include beer or bourbon (or both) as a major ingredient. He gives us 10 different beer types and 3 different bourbon types, plus he notes non-alcoholic, gluten-free, and vegan options. The book is arranged by course or plate (moving from sides, snacks, sauces, soups, to chilies, BBQ, sweets), but also within each section there is an arrangement of light to heavy flavours from the beer and bourbon. Thus he starts with beer battered fried mozzarella sticks as appetizers and move through the book to no-churn toffee and stout ice cream and bourbon choco-sicles. It's also a guy book in that most of the food (Irish beef stew, beer party meatballs, jalapeno cheddar beer bread) is what guys eat and drink with beer and bourbon. A readable typeface is very useful, although the print of the index is very tiny. Ingredients are only listed in Imperial measurements, and there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.


--FESTIVE COFFEE SHOP DRINKS; more than 50 holiday-inspired recipes for coffees, hot chocolates & more (Ryland, Peters & Small, 2023, 128 pages, ISBN 978-1-78879-554-8 $23.99 CAD hardbound) is by Hannah Miles who has authored 46 cookbooks. Her book is mainly for the Christmas season: coffee and tea-based drinks, hot chocolates, mochas, cold brews, frappes, and creamy shakes. Some of the preps are from her earlier books on hot chocolate and shakes, while four others were furnished by Louise Pickford.
Primer chapters deal with making the best base beverage, making syrups and sauces, and decorating the drink. Then each type has its own chapter. And each type seems to have its own shape of glass or mug. Gorgeous illustrations help place this book in the Christmas "giftbook" category. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.


--WINE STYLE;  discover the wines you will love through 50 simple recipes (Ten Speed Press, 2021, 176 pages, $28 hardbound)  is by Kate Leahy with photography by Eric Scott. This is a quick, casual read covering the essential varieties that wine lovers need to know, and featuring more than 50 food preps for all manner of potential  pairings. There are no rules here (especially none of the old-fashioned ones, like  seafood should always be paired with white ), but there are opportunities for exploring styles of wine such as dessert wines or orange wines   with food. Typical are baked lemony feta with a crisp white wine, or caramelized cabbage and onion galette with a serious red, or smoked salmon spaghetti with sparkling wine, et al. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.


--DISTILLED: a natural history of spirits (Yale University Press, 2022, 328 pages, $40 hardbound) is by Rob DeSalle and Ian Tattersall, with illustrations by Patricia Wynne. It's a natural history survey of the wide world of spirits, from whiskey and gin to grappa and moonshine et al. In this follow-up book to A Natural History of Wine and A Natural History of Beer, authors DeSalle and Tattersall yet again use alcoholic beverages as a lens through which to gain a greater appreciation of natural history. This volume considers highly alcoholic spirits in the context of evolution, ecology, history, primatology, molecular biology, physiology, neurobiology, chemistry, and even astrophysics. With the help of Wynne, DeSalle and Tattersall address historical and cultural aspects and ingredients, the distillation process, and spirits and their effects. Some of their colleagues also contribute chapters on brandy, vodka, tequila, whiskies, gin, rum, eaux-de-vie, schnapps, baiju, grappa, ouzo, and cacha a. Covering beverages from across the globe and including descriptions of the experience of tasting each drink, the authors offer a comprehensive exploration of the scientific dimensions of spirits. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing


--WHISKY: the manual: 102 whiskies, 5 ways (Ilex Press, an imprint of Octopus Publishing Group Ltd., 2014, 2022, 224 pages, $ 22 hardbound)  is by Dave Broom who had previously published the book in 2014. It's full of practical and fascinating information about how to enjoy whisky. All whisky styles are covered, including blends. Along the way a good few myths are exploded, including the idea that whisky has to be taken neat. In 'What to Drink', the author explores flavour camps - how to understand a style of whisky and then moves on to provide extensive tasting notes of the major brands, demonstrating whisky's diversity. In 'How to Drink', he sets out how to enjoy whisky in many ways - using water and mixers, from soda to green tea; and in cocktails, from the Manhattan to the Rusty Nail. There is also  pairing whisky with food.  Coloured illustrations too.  Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing


--JAZZ AGE COCKTAILS; history, lore and recipes from America's roaring twenties (Washington Mews Books, New York University Press, 2021, 159 pages, $25.95 hardbound) is by Cecelia Tighi who teaches American studies at Vanderbilt University. It is a short history of how the US Prohibition law of 1920 forced alcohol to be savoured in secret, and made all the more delectable when the cocktail shaker was forced to go underground. She takes a trip through the cocktail creations of the early twentieth century, letting readers into the glitz and (illicit) glamour of the 1920s.  She dazzles with tales of temptation and temperance, and features about 70 cocktail recipes from the time to be recreated and enjoyed (The Bee's Knees, the Alexander, the Boulevardiere, Champagne Julep, The Cat's Pajamas, The Flapper, et al).  Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.

C.Perhaps some food and drink REFERENCE books? Such as:


--COOK WITH JOAN ROCA; step-by-step preparation and cooking techniques (Grub Street, 2022, 368 pages, ISBN 978-1-911667-41-4 $54.95 hardbound) is by Joan Roca who has 25 years of professional cooking behind him. With his two brothers sommelier Josep and pastry chef Jordi he runs the three-star Michelin El Cellar de Can Roca.
With over 600 colour photos he refreshingly writes to us in an engaging manner on the basics of boiling, frying, curing, pickling, blanching, marinating, smoking, braising, grilling, and other essential techniques of "cooking". All aspects are seemingly covered, beginning with the shopping list, basic equipment, essential cuts of meats, health and nutrition and sanitation, and more. He's got 80 preps that put all the techniques described in the book into practice. At the back of the book are important base recipes, a glossary and two indexes (one to the preps and one as a "general index"). Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.

--WINE : a tasting course, from grape to glass  (DK Books, 2013, 2021, 256 pages, $32 hardbound)  is by Marnie Old. It was originally published in 2013; this is the updated and revised text. It'ss  a fairly comprehensive and no-nonsense wine tasting course that covers every aspect of wine from grape to glass. Nuances are stressed through the tasting and appreciation process. Themed tasting exercises are located throughout the book, encouraging readers to learn at their own pace. All the while, there are copious notes on food and wine pairing, identifying the style spectrum, and distinguishing taste and smell. Old explores fun wine facts and explodes myths, giving you everything you need to talk, taste and enjoy your favorite vintage. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.


--FALAFEL; delicious recipes for Middle Eastern-style patties, plus sauces, pickles, salads, & breads (Ryland, Peters & Small, 2023, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-78879-527-2 $16.99 USD hardbound) is by Dunja Gulin, a Croatian cookbook author of many vegan cookbooks. Here she has also shared a dozen preps from other food writers. Falafels are chickpeas (also known as garbanzos) ground with a variety of spices and herbs to create a sort of meatball-shaped vegetarian (or vegan) pod. You can also make falafels with pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds, walnuts, cashews, buckwheat, mushrooms, flaxseeds, et al. She's got different sections: one on fried falafels, another on baked falafels, and one on no-cook falafels. Then there are chapters on dips, dressings, pittas, flatbreads and crackers. She starts with the traditional chickpea falafel pockets (street food style) and moves along to undone (deconstructed) falafel salad. You can do burgers, casseroles, curries, soups, even a grazing board! Ingredients are mainly listed in Imperial measurements with some metric volumes, but there is no table of metric equivalents. A very clever single dish cookbook, well-worth exploring. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.


--DIABETES CREATE YOUR PLATE MEAL PREP COOKBOOK (Robert Rose, 2022, 288 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0707-0 $29.95 CAD paper covers) is by Toby Amidor, cookbook author and dietitian with eight books, some with Robert Rose such as "The Best 3-Ingredient Cookbook". Here she expands on the concept of the Diabetes Plate Method for make-ahead meals. She's got 100 preps and five different meal plans spread over from the beginner to the experienced cook. Along the way she's got tips and advice for creating multiple dishes at one time and shopping, cooking and ingredient substitutions. The idea behind a meal prep is to create balanced diabetes-friendly plates of food to better control blood sugar levels. Different storage containers are noted to accommodate different styles of storing. For example, Rubbermaid offers a package of 10 containers and more, up to 44 pieces or so. Storage is either in the freezer or refrigerator, and she presents tables to allow for food safety. The basic principle is to create your plate: half of the space is for non-starchy veggies such as cauliflower or kale, spinach, broccoli rabe, and the like. One-quarter of the container is a lean protein (meat, fish, seafood, eggs, plant-based), while the remaining quarter has carbo food such as grains, starchy veggies, fruit, milk or yogurt. Add some healthy non-saturated fats and/or a tiny quantity of saturated fats such as butter. And away you go – taking it easy on any appetizers or desserts that are not part of the equation. Every prep has an icon which indicates those recipes that are freezer-friendly, one-pot, vegetarian, vegan, 30-minutes or less, dairy-free, gluten-free. Typical meal plates include spicy chicken meatballs, sriracha yogurt dip, chicken noodle soup, herbed garlic-butter pork chops, or veggie-loaded meatloaf. An important chapter of the book deals with dressings, condiments, and sauces such as teriyaki marinade, BBQ sauce, pesto, peanut dressing, and mango salsa. This book is a boon for those diabetics who need to "grab and go". The index is very thorough and comprehensive. My faves (I'm pre-diabetic) are the eggplant with tomatoes and cumin, and the chicken cacciatore. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both avoirdupois and metric measurements; it is the Robert Rose style. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.


--FERMENTATION; history, uses and recipes (Firefly Books, 2023, 206 pages, ISBN 978-0-2281-0411-4  $39.95 CAD hardbound) is by Mathilde Fenestraz, a Parisian journalist and cookbook author, and Stephane Ros, an art historian who wrote the book's preface and the history of fermentation chapter. It was originally published in 2022 in France. This is the North American English translation release. It is mainly a good fermentation textbook, at an affordable price, giving us a history and a listing of the many varieties of fermented food – with a scope embracing meat and fish, dairy products, baked goods, alcohol drinks, kombucha, kefir, and more. There is also a section from the Institut Paul Bocuse on the theory of food pairing, with nine food and drink pairings (chocolate with tarragon, shrimp curry paste with scallops, brioche with framboise beer, and the like. Yeast and bacteria are everywhere on earth: we do rely on these living organisms to improve taste and human nutrition. The 30 recipes here are easy-peasy and cover simple foods such as pickles, salmon gravlax, and pretzels. The book could have been improved if it also used more metric in the recipes, or at least had a metric conversion chart. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.


--HEARTY CAST-IRON AND SKILLET COOKING; 101 easy-to-make, feel-good recipes (Fox Chapel Publishing, 2023, 152 pages, ISBN 978-1-4971-0386-3 $22.99 CDN softbound) is by Anne Schaeffer, who has also written cookbooks on campfire meals, Dutch ovens, crock pots, tailgating, Amish baking, and many other topics. All of the preps here can be cooked on the stove, in the oven, and/or grilled over a fire – using the Dutch oven, the skillet or cast-iron pan. Once heated, these pots maintain even cooking temps. And the cookware lasts forever, even through to the next generation plus one. They are all highly recommended for campfires, grills, and other open flame sources. Typical preps here include breakfast (bacon and potato pancakes, frittatas), lunch (tuna noodle casserole, one pot shells and meatballs), dinner (fajita enchiladas, chicken marsala), and desserts (peachy raspberry pie, cherry-cream roll-ups). I like that the type face is large so that it is easy enough for seniors to read. Also, the idea of one pot or pan appeals to the male chef for its tidiness; consequently, the book has advantages for the guys. Ingredients are only listed in Imperial measurements, and there is no table of metric equivalents. Recipe directions include instructions for all three heat sources. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.


--JAPANESE CUISINE; an illustrated guide (Firefly Books, 2022,  128 pages, $19.95 softbound) is by Laurie Kie and Haruna Kishi. Kie has written many other Japanese cookbooks; Kishi is a Japanese illustrator. This little nifty reference work contains many recipes, anecdotes, histories, stories, maps, techniques, stylings, utiensils, native ingredients – all wonderfully illustrated with watercoloured drawings. It can answer many questions: how to make sushi, miso soup, bento boxes; how to use Japanese knives, chopsticks, cooking vessels, seaweed. There is a special section on ramen and its many distinctive regional variations. Very lovingly produced, right down to the Japanese pictographs.

--KOREAN CUISINE; an illustrated guide (Firefly Books, 2022, 128 pages, ISBN 978-0-2281-0389-9 $19.95 CAD paperbound) is by Luna Kyung, who lives in Paris and has written books about Korean food. Ahnji is a Korean illustrator and graphic designer who also lives in France, and is a co-author. Their book was originally published in French, in France, in 2021 – this is the English translation. There is a lot going on here; in addition to recipes, there are memoir materials, anecdotes, histories and background. For the food itself, there is in-depth coverage on techniques, utensils, and Korean ingredients. It's a colourful book since all of the illustrations are watercolours of food, utensils, finished plates, meal composition, tableware, staples, condiments and sauces. These are everyday dishes. But just one thought: there is no pork neck bone soup recipe. I've noticed this omission in many recent Korean cookbooks, no doubt because pork neck bones are difficult to obtain, even from a butcher. The closest "bone" to find is either hock trotter or spare rib bone, and even these can be hard to find, especially (for the latter) in grilling season. I mention all of this because I regard pork neck bone soup (Gamjatang), along with Bipimbap, to be a quintessential Korean dish. You can easily check out the ingredients through the Internet. It is worth trying to do because of its bounty of flavours, even if you have to use spare ribs where is no real difference in flavour, although neck fans may question that assumption. Kyung's book is full of vast quantities of everyday dishes, fermented foods, noodles, party dishes, temple food, street food, lucky foods, and even North Korean specialties. This is an extremely useful book. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.

--VIETNAMESE CUISINE; recipes and anecdotes from Vietnamese gastronomic culture (Firefly Books, 2023, 128 pages, ISBN 978-0-2281-0442-1 $19.95 CAD paperbound) is by Nathalie Nguyen, with great watercolour illustrations by Melody Ung. It was originally published in French in France in 2022. This edition is the third in a Firefly series (the others dealt with illustrated cuisines of Japan and of Korea. There are 30 recipes, each with text about the plate's place in culinary history. And yes, Vietnam cuisine does have its own version of peanut sauce (a no-heat recipe is included). Typical dishes include banh mi (of course), but also Vietnamese pancakes, pho bo, nem chua, and caramelized fish. There is a lot going on here: in addition to recipes, there are memoir materials, anecdotes, histories and background. For the food itself, there is in-depth coverage on techniques, utensils, and Vietnamese ingredients. It's a colourful book since all of the illustrations are watercolours of food, utensils, finished plates, meal composition, tableware, staples, condiments and sauces. These are everyday dishes. Do try to track down the other two books --can Thai or Laos be far behind? A top book for the top of your stocking stuffers. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.


--THE GROUNDS CAFE; seasonal dishes from Murray's Century Farm (Boulder Books, 2023, 165 pages, ISBN 978-1-989417-60-7 $34.95 hardbound) is by Nick Van Mele, who also did the recipes, with contributions from the Murray family. The book goes into the importance of community, co-operation, and the interdependence they all share in producing good food. The Murrays arrived in Newfoundland in 1820 and the Century Farm began in 1860. In 2017 Murray's opened The Grounds Cafe, a farm-to-fork restaurant. This book is a collection of recipes from that restaurant. Readers will enjoy reading about the growth of the farmers, foragers, foodies, family and friends over the years up through to the modern times. Lots of memoir material and photos. It's arranged by season, beginning with spring. Each has a section of about a dozen recipes. Spring includes "spring harvest salad", oyster mushroom and chive tartlet, buckwheat noodle bowl, handmade pasta with nettle pesto and cured radish. Summer brings tomato tart with basil pesto and mozzarella, charred zucchini and fennel soup, and a summer salad. The chill of fall produces tomato jam, squash risotto, apple butter, and a warm fall harvest salad with roasted pumpkin. Winter invites beet frites with garlic aioli, Cuban-style calzone, BBQ parsnip, and curried potato and root-veggie samosa with onion chutney. Delicious all round. With a shakshuka prep and veggie posters from Murray Meadows Farm this book really details the rural life in Newfoundland. Ingredients are only listed in Imperial measurements, and there is no table of metric equivalents. But, for a change, the index entries are large enough to read. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.


Part Two: STOCKING STUFFERS
===========================

Stocking stuffer books should be at the very top of everybody's gift list: something affordable from under $10 up to $25 or so, and that can also double as a host gift, being something small and lightweight. And of course, they can all stuff an adult stocking.

Typical for food are:

--DINNER WITH JANE AUSTEN; menus inspired by her novels and letters (CICO Books, 2023, 64 pages, ISBN 978-1-80065-264-4 $19.99 CAD hardbound) is by Pen Vogler who has written many such historical British cookbooks (Tea with Jane Austen, Dinner with Mr. Darcy, Dinner with Dickens, et al). These are Regency menus and dinners that have been fully updated for modern times: the originals are next to the updates. There are five menus with notes about the times and about compelling dishes. For example, there is Mrs. Bennet's Dinner to Impress from Pride and Prejudice (fresh pea soup, partridges with bread sauce, spiced mushrooms, and everlasting syllabub). There is also a bibliography and an index. A top book for the top of your stocking stuffers. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.

--MAGNIFICENT MEALS IN A BOWL COOKBOOK; healthy, fast, easy recipes with vegan-and-keto-friendly choices (Fox Chapel Publishing, 2016, 2023, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-4971-0384-9, $18.99 CAD softbound) is by Gabrielle Garcia. It's derived from three other bowl books authored by Garcia. This makes for a good compilation at the entry level for a variety of 150 savoury dishes -- each in a bowl. The table of contents include preps for breakfast, combo salads, green salads, sandwiches, pasta and noodles, grain bowls, and rice bowls. Each is easy to make, starting with a basic bowl of bacon and eggs with kale, moving through chicken bruschetta salad, cabbage with eggs and lo main, shrimp and beet barley bowls, and sweet and sour items atop rice. A good choice for beginning or solo cooks. Nice rich close-up photos. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.

-- COMFORT FOOD ESSENTIALS; over 100 delicious recipes for all-time favorite feel-good foods (Fox Chapel Publishing, 2023, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-4971-0320-7, $22.99 CAD softbound) is by chef-owner Kim Wilcox (It's All So Yummy Cafe in Knoxville, Tennessee).
Her preps cover the basic three meals of breakfast, lunch, dinner, with other material on sides, soups, "childhood comforts", snacks, breads, toppings, condiments, et al. It is a good basic entry-level cookbook, useful for new families, college students, singles and solos beginning life away from home. The comforts of home can be replicated here. It's loaded with tips and advice. A good starter book, and a great stocking stuffer. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.


Other little books for beverages include those on beer, wine and spirits:

--IT'S NO FUN WITHOUT RUM! 50 fabulous recipes for rum-based cocktails from mai tai to mojito (Dog 'n' Bone, 2023, 64 pages, ISBN 978-1-912983-78-0 $12.99 USD hardbound) is a publisher's book with 11 different contributors: Ben Reed has largest number of recipes (15), followed by Michael Butt (13). It's a basic handy guide to a pile of delicious rum cocktail preps. We all know daiquiri, pina colada, planter's punch, cuba libre, and hurricane. But do we know officer's nightcap? Or tiki negroni? Or graham cracker crunch? We do now. Nifty photos. A good book to serve as a host gift or stocking stuffer. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.


--JUST A SPRITZ: 57 simple sparkling sips with low to no alcohol (Artisan, 2022, 176 pages, $25 hardbound) is by Danielle Centoni, with Eric Medsker as photographer. The Italian export, the Aperol spritz, with its classic (and simple) makeup of fizzy prosecco, sparkling water, and a splash of the bittersweet, citrus-flavored liqueur, is just the beginning. In Just a Spritz, Danielle Centoni shares a world of spritz variations. Add in sweet liqueurs and bitter amari, fresh juices, flavored kombuchas, and drinking vinegars to update the sparkling spritz. A spritz is quick to assemble and does not require a stocked pantry. Here there are more than 50 recipes (and numerous variations) organized by flavor profile and theme, including the Raspberry Beret, the Margarita Spritz, and the Cucumberbatch, as well as nonalcoholic spritz drinks. For a spritz newbie, a classic Negroni Sbagliato may be just the thing. Or the fruity-floral, scarlet-purple, picture-perfect Lady Lavender. Whatever the craving, from a sweet peach spritz to a slightly bitter and citric Cappelletti Shandy, there's a recipe to satisfy every thirst, along with colourful photos. Remember, these are all LO-AL or NO-AL concoctions. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.




Dean Tudor,  Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.com
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