The Venue: Salon 103, Direct Energy Centre, just outside the Royal Winter Fair.
The Target Audience: publishers, cookery authors, media.
The Quote/Background: This was the 14th annual presentation of the Canadian Culinary Book Awards. There were 82 books nominated in three categories for each of English and French (six categories in all).
The Wines: NiagaraCollege Teaching Winery again provided the wines, one an unoaked Chardonnay 2010 ($15), the other a Merlot 2007 ($17). Both were more food-friendly than social wines.
The English-language Award goes to Sarah Elton for "Locavore"; Jeff McCourt, Allan Williams and Austin Clement for "Flavours of Prince Edward Island"; and Michael Bonacini, Massimo Capra, and Jason Parsons for "3 Chefs" all got Gold in their respective categories.
The Food: The reception for the authors was hosted by NiagaraCollege winery, Aphrodite Cooks (goat cheese on kale pesto with roasted beet), GeorgeBrownCollege (many small desserts and cookies), Epic Restaurant (pork loin), Cambridge Mill Restaurant (elk stew), and Beretta Organic Farms (boeuf bourguignon).
The Downside: it got crowded really fast. This is the third year in a row that all the hot food mains were just at one end of the Café Soleil. I believe the floor tilted at one point. And this is the third year in a row that I have criticized the event on this detail. I was told that next year there were going to be changes, perhaps to a sit-down food and wine function.
The Upside: a chance to mingle with cookbook authors and publishers.
The Contact Person:firstname.lastname@example.org
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 80.
The Date and Time: Tuesday, October 25, 2011 11AM to 5 PM The Event: UBIFrance's French Hospitality Connection The Venue: Park Hyatt Roof Top The Target Audience: wine and food trade, writers The Availability/Catalogue: just about everybody was looking for an agent. There was one winery; everybody else was food. The Quote/Background: The Wines:
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Champagne Cuillier Pere et Fils Cuvee de Grande Reserve Brut, Vintages
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Champagne Cuillier Pere et Fils Pink Champagne -Champagne Cuillier Pere et Fils Brut Tradition
The Food: Albert Menes had some terrific clementine marmalade; L'Atelier Gourmet brought in some Bayonne ham, duck confit, Guinea fowl, and even dome duck wings. Artenay Cereals had some health bars; Britexa had some crepidula (a shellfish, like a scallop) for cooking. Perles en Gascogne had some innovative oils, from prune kernels, hazel nuts, and walnuts. So Jennie was offering a delicious sparkling non- alcoholic Champagne (0.0% ABV, while Champagne Cuillier was offering the real thing. Evian and Badoit contributed the still and sparkling waters. The Downside: it was a small show of exhibitors. The Upside: there was a small turnout, so it was possible to speak with everybody. The Contact Person: email@example.com The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 79.
..is one of the hottest trends in cookbooks. Actually, they've been around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are automatic sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or the restaurant and/or the media personality. Many of the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but more often there is not. I'll try to point this out. The usual shtick is "favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks". There is also PR copy on "demystifying ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf also includes much use of the magic phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books) don't seem to work, but how could that be? They all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. The celebrity books, with well-known chefs or entertainers, seem to have too much self-involvement and ego. And, of course, there are a lot of food shots, verging on gastroporn. The endorsements are from other celebrities in a magnificent case of logrolling. If resources are cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books
12. EVERYDAY RAW EXPRESS; recipes in 30 minutes or less (Gibbs Smith, 20ll; distr. Raincoast, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-1891-1, $19.99 US paper covers) is by Matthew Kenney, chef-partner in numerous restaurants, with a Beard nomination. He's also a TV food personality and a cookbook author (he's got the "Everyday Raw" series). In this third book, he works on moving the raw food within 30 minutes. Actually, that's not too hard since the food needs no cooking. He has a variety of smoothies, soups, salads, wraps, rolls, pasta (veggie ribbons) and entrees such as squash blossom tamales, spring vegetable couscous, Portobello steak, vegetable napoleon and wild mushroom lasagna. Desserts include blueberry sherbet, spiced pineapple with rose water and pistachios, and chocolate hemp milk custard which is nut free. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is a table of metric equivalents. Good large print face, which is a boon to my tired eyes. Quality/price rating: 88.
13. COMPLETE CHINESE COOKBOOK (Firefly Books, 2011, 352 pages, ISBN 978-1-55407-943-8, $35 CAD hard covers) is by prolific chef-cookbook author Ken Hom. He's sold over 2 million cookbooks over the past 30 years, as well as appearing on many TV cooking series. This is a group of 250 or so recipes, co-published in the UK by BBC Books. There's a primer on ingredients, equipment, techniques, menus, and how to eat Chinese food. The range is from apps through desserts, although Hom does discourse on yin, yang, and yin yang. Overall, it is a basic book, emphasizing that Chinese food is healthy, modestly priced, and quick and easy. So it fits today's trends. Preps are sourced from all different regions such as Cantonese, Hong Kong, Szechuan, and more. Try curried vegetarian spring rolls, Beijing-braised lamb, cold marinated peanuts, walnut chicken, paper-wrapped chicken, or stir-fried spinach with garlic. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is also a table of equivalents. Good layout, interesting photography, and large typeface. Quality/price rating: 88.
14. DESSERTS FROM THE FAMOUS LOVELESS CAFÉ; simple southern pies, puddings, cakes and cobblers from Nashville's landmark restaurant (Artisan, 2011; distr. T. Allen, 220 pages, ISBN 978-1-57965-434-4, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Alisa Huntsman, pastry chef at the Loveless Café. She's also written a cook book about triple-layer cakes. Paula Deen provides the inevitable log rolling. The resto has been in business since 1951; it serves some of the best cobblers and pies around. Huntsman was hired in 2004 to enlarge their dessert offerings. Here are more than 100 preps of mostly southern dishes. It all starts with a chapter on blue-ribbon pies, followed by country cakes, crisps, cobblers, shortcakes, coffee cakes, tea cakes, cheesecakes, cookies, bars, and cupcakes. And then concludes with puddings. There's also a list of US sources, a short bibliography of southern cooking, and lots of photos of the café (plus some memories of the place). It just oozes southern hospitality, but do watch the fat and calories. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.
15. CUTIE PIES; 40 sweet, savory and adorable recipes (Andrews, McMeel, 2011; distr. Simon & Schuster, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-4494-0305-8, $16.99 US hard covers) is by Dani Cone, owner of Seattle's High 5 Pie and Fuel Coffee. Of course, she sells her pies there for takeout. And in this book, there are lots of gluten-free pie dough recipes as a crust option. All of these pies are made from scratch, and they can be used for several shapes including full-sized pies. For example, "cutie pie" is a single-serving baked in a standard muffin pan. "Petit-5s" are even smaller, baked in a mini-muffin pan, "piejars" are baked in a wide-mouth Mason jar, "flipsides" are turnovers, and "piepops" are pie lollipops, meant mostly for entertaining. You can mix and match them: just choose the pie shape you want and the crust you want (there's all- butter, graham cracker, vegan, and gluten-free). There's peach-ricotta- honey pies, curry veggies, cran-apple, strawberry-rhubarb-ginger, potato-dill-cheese-veggie, and caramel-pecan. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are tables of metric equivalents spread over four pages. Quality/price rating: 87.
16. TEA WITH BEA (Ryland, Peters & Small, 2011; distr. T. Allen, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-143-8, $24.95 US hard covers) is from Bea's of Bloomsbury, in London UK. Bea Vo is the owner. She's American, but opened the teashop in 2008. She emphasizes easy to follow recipes which deal with cookies, cakes, tarts and cheesecakes. There's some general information on making tea and coffee, but the book mainly deal with the pastry elements, such as the ones you'd find on a tier. There are over 70 preps here, such as snicker doodles, lemon verbena semolina cookies, nutty lemon biscotti, almond cherry muffins, poached pear and frangipane tart, or vegan chocolate cake. There are also six ideas for tea parties, with page references (7 to 9 preps each), such as baby shower or Mother's day. Ingredients are listed as scaled or volume (your choice). Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 89.
17. SPAGHETTI SAUCES; authentic Italian recipes (Gibbs Smith, 2011; distr. Raincoast, 128 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-0688-8, $19.99 US hard covers) is by Biba Caggiano, chef-owner of BIBA Restaurant, TV chef, and award-winning author of eight successful cookbooks on Italian food. Here she goes after sauces which are appropriate for long, stringy pasta. It was at the request of her grandchildren. It's arranged by main ingredient, such as cheese, pesto, quick tomato, vegetable, seafood, and ragu. The preps are simple and coherent, even teenagers can handle them. Some wine is called for in the cooking (mostly white wine). Anchovies also appear in 11 recipes, but artichokes are in only one. Typical preps include butter, cream, Parmigiano and nutmeg; fresh tomato sauce with ricotta cheese and basil; mozzarella, cherry tomatoes and basil Capri style; spring veggies, smoked ham, and egg sauce; and sautéed mixed mushrooms with parsley and sage. Very useful. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is a table of metric equivalents. The index is to ingredients only, and not to names or titles of sauces. Quality/price rating: 89.
WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR NOVEMBER 26, 2011 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing firstname.lastname@example.org. Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1995. My tastings are based on MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for re-tasting from another bottle.
TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 1. Camino del Inca Torrontes 2010 Cafayate: aromatics plus, spicy berries, twist top, hot finish at 13.5% ABV. +82404, $15.95, QPR: 89. 2. Momo Pinot Gris 2010 Marlborough: lively off-dry character, concentrated flavours, delightful full finish, 14.5% ABV. +163535, $18.95, QPR: 89. 3. Lucien Albrecht Reserve Gewurztraminer 2009 Alsace: delicious, full and ripe with only slight bitterness on finish, 13.5% ABV. +926931, $18.95, QPR: 90. 4. Amani Chardonnay 2009 WO Stellenbosch: good balance of orchard fruit and wood (new oak), 14% ABV. +687442, $17.95, QPR: 90. 5. Kurt Darting Riesling Spatlese 2008 QmP Ungsteiner Harrenberg: rich and still evolving, still developing. 10% ABV. +963207, $19.95, QPR: 89. 6. Istituto Agrario San Michelle All'Adige Pinot Grigio 2010 Trentino: Midweight but concentrated flavours, 13% ABV. +249540, $18.95, QPR: 89.
TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 1. Benmarco Malbec 2009 Mendoza: some value here with French and US oak used, 14% ABV. Whopping big flavours, smoothed by some added bonarda. +657601, $16.95, QPR: 89. 2. Concha y Toro Winemaker's Lot 115 Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Palo Santo Vineyard Rapel: terrific composition, very Euro in style and mode (black fruit and smoke, underbrush). +30965, $17.95, QPR: 90. 3. Chateau Canteloup 2004 Medoc: rare to find an older simple Medoc. My sample had been nicely matured, 13% ABV. Buy it all. +243923, $14.95, QPR: 91. 4. Valiano Poggio Teo Chianti Classico 2006: low price, modest finish but
rich flavours on mid-palate, 13.5% ABV. Gold Medal. +250563, $17.95, QPR: 89. 5. Donzel Tinto Reserva 2005 Douro: ripe and voluptuous wine for North American tastes. Juicy. 13% ABV. +244707, $18.95, QPR: 89. 6. Palacio de Sada Crianza 2006 Navarra: good fruit, mix of French and US oak, over 40-year old vines, 13.5% ABV. Another wine with a great price, to go. Maturing nicely. Snap it up. +246736, $14.95, QPR: 90. 7. Las Moras Black Label Bonarda 2008 San Juan Argentina: cherries and underbrush dominate, new French oak for 18 months, roasted and toasted flavours, 14% ABV. +260901, $15.95, QPR: 90. 8. Cave de Roquebrun La Grange des Combes Saint-Chinian-Roquebrun 2009: 50syrah/30grenache/20mourvedre ratio, plumy, shows garrigue, long finish for food, 13.5% ABV. +155804, $16.95, QPR: 90. 9. Du Cropio Don Giuva Ciro Rosso Classico Superiore 2005: delicious herbs and aging component, baking well. 13.5% ABV. +250829, $17.95, QPR: 89. 10. Feudi San Pio Ripasso Valpolicella Superiore 2008: Ripasso of the month, 14% ABV. +181446, $15.95, QPR: 89.
VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10 markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.
1. Le Clos Jordanne Le Grand Clos Chardonnay 2009 VQA Niagara Twenty Mile Bench, +34561, $65 retail. 2. Kistler Sonoma Mountain Chardonnay 2009, +183921, $72.95 3. Scott Family Estate Dijon Clone Chardonnay 2010 Arroyo Seco Monterey, +99051, $23.95. 4. Henschke Mount Edelstone Vineyard Shiraz 2005 Eden Valley South Australia, +718601, $99.95. 5. Domaine Louis Jadot Beaune Theurons 1er Cru 2006, +42838, $45.95 6. Gaja Dagromis Barolo 2005, +92742, $64.95 7. La Vite Lucente 2009 IGT Tuscany, +747030, $39.95 8. Quintarelli Rosso Ca' del Merlo 2002 IGT Veneto, +958595, $84.95 9. Domaine Vincent Delaporte Chavignol Sancerre 2010, +251488, $23.95. 10. Milbrandt The Estates Syrah 2007 Wahluke Slope Columbia Valley, +242487, $29.95. 11. Kim Crawford Small Parcel Corner 50 Merlot 2008 Hawkes Bay North Island, +252320, $29.95. 12. Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino 2005, +922054, $41.95. 13. Marques de Caceres Gran Reserva 2001 Rioja, +976670, $29.95.
The Date and Time: Monday, October 24, 2011 3:30 PM to 7 PM The Event: Masi Old Vintage tasting with Sandro Boscaini. The Venue: Fine Wine Reserve The Target Audience: wine media and private clients The Availability/Catalogue: all wines were available for purchase, or soon will be. The Quote/Background: Sandro Boscaini spoke on the older vintages; these are library wines commercially released for the first time, and are available through Authentic Wine and Spirits Merchants or the LCBO. The Wines:
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Masi Amarone Classico 1995, part of a mixed case, $99.70 each -Masi Costasera Amarone Classico 1998, $99.70 -Masi Costasera Amarone Classico Riserva 2007, $69.95
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Masi Costasera Amarone Classico 2007, $38.95 -Masi Costasera Amarone Classico 2000, $99.70 -Masi Campolongo di Torbe Amarone Classico 2004, $99.95 -Masi Mazzano Amarone Classico 2004, $99.95
*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Masi Masianco 2010 white, $14.95 -Masi Brolo di Campofiorin 2007, $24.95 Vintages Feb 16, 2012 -Masi Vaio Amaron Amarone Classico 2005, $69.95
The Food: cheeses and breads The Downside: I had a lot of meals and tastings today, but I was able to walk everywhere. The Upside: a chance to taste some older rarer Italian vintages. The Contact Person: email@example.com; firstname.lastname@example.org The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 88.
1. AUTHENTIC WINE; toward natural and sustainable winemaking (University of California Press, 2011, 260 pages, ISBN 978-0-520-26563- 9, $29.95 US hard covers) is by Jamie Goode (wine writer for the Sunday Express and owner of www.wineanorak.com) and Sam Harrop, MW, with log rolling by Tim Atkin MW and the eclectic Randall Grahm (Bonny Doon wines). The biggest trend in wines today is the concept of "naturalness" and "sustainability", plus the use of organic or biodynamic grapes. Other issues involve "green" production such as lighter bottles, screw caps, lower or greener transportation costs, and other factors. The industry (both Old World and New World) is keen on wineries that are locally owned and operated, using grapes from family farms which employ sustainable agriculture to protect the environment. The packaging should be "earth-friendly", exhibit carbon neutrality, and use solar power wherever possible. All of this is possible at no or modest increase in prices. Goode and Harrop explore all the parameters, including proper terroir and grafted vines, chemical and physical manipulation when necessary, wild yeasts and cultured yeasts, and other matters. There is an interesting chapter on wine faults, and how natural wines can be prey to reduction, oxidation, brett, and volatile acidity. The usual reaction has been to add sulphur, but you cannot do that to natural or organic wines. The authors propose some solutions, but also suggest that more work needs to be done here. The book is illustrated with black and white photos, and some graphs and charts. Some of the material had been previously published as periodical articles. Audience and level of use: wine readers, hospitality programs, winemaker schools, wineries. Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: "People have a hunger for the authentic." The downside to this book: it has a fair number of anecdotal sources, and lacks footnote/bibliography/glossary material. The upside to this book: this is probably the first of many such books. Quality/Price Rating: 91.
The Date and Time: Monday, October 24, 2011 10AM to 5 PM The Event: the monthly APVSA tasting (Association pour la promotion des vins et spiritueux en Amerique du Nord). The Venue: Delta Chelsea Inn The Target Audience: wine agents. The Availability/Catalogue: no wines are currently available in Ontario. The group is here to get some agents to agree to rep the principal. Some of the wines are available in Quebec and Alberta. Most of the wines were French, and there is sales staff available to comment on the prices and production. This road show also visits such places as New York, Los Angeles, Seattle, Las Vegas, Calgary, Vancouver, Miami, Washington DC, and Montreal. Occasionally, the show will have wines from Italy, Uruguay, Spain and Australia. Sometimes spirits and VDN are also available. The Wines: The problem I had with the wines, and one that must be acknowledged, is that (by and large) they were about the same as wines that we already have here in Ontario. There really did not seem to be any price advantages, either. But these 40 or so wines could be made available through Vintages or Consignment. In the past, quite a few have been picked up for sale in Ontario. They were mostly the good value or unique wines. Here were my faves, regardless of price which must be requested due to competitive pricing. I did not try every wine.
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Domaine Mussy Beaune Epenottes 2005
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Domaine Mussy Beaune Montremenots 2009 1er cru -Domaine Mussy Pommard 2009 les petits Noizons -Château Wiala Fitou 2007 -EARL Domaine Daniel Pollier Pouilly-Fuissé 2009 -SA Duvernay Hermitage 2009 -SA Duvernay Vacqueyras 2009
*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Château Wiala Languedoc Harmonie 2009 -EARL Domaine Daniel Pollier Macon-Fuissé 2010 -Dom. Matignon Rose Cabernet d'Anjou 2010 -Dom. Matignan Anjou Rouge 2009
The Food: I had to leave early, so I missed the lunch. The Downside: some wines were not yet chilled, such as three Vouvrays and three Champagnes. It was a shame to leave them. The Upside: a smaller selection of wines to enjoy. The Contact Person: Pascal email@example.com The Marketing Effectiveness/Execution of the Event(numerical grade): 84.
The Date and Time: Monday, October 31, 2011 11 AM to 6 PM The Event: Annual Italian Wine Tasting, 2011, 16th edition The Venue: Roy Thompson Hall Lobby The Target Audience: wine media and trade The Availability/Catalogue: as usual, the catalogue was arranged alphabetically by producer, with a full listing of wines available for tasting. Both the Montreal and the Toronto shows were included, along with the respective names of Ontario and Quebec agencies. Prices were not given, but vintages and regions were, along with the approximate percentages of grape composition in the wine. A first rate catalogue. The Wines: prices are retail.
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Aurelio Settimo Barolo Riserva Rocche 2004, $87.95 (Profile) -Bersano Moscato d'Asti San Michele 2010 (Profile) -Borgo Scopeto e Caparzo Toscana IGT Borgonero 2009, $20.95 (The Case for Wine) -Castello di Neive Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano 2006, $69 (Brunello) -Domini Castellare di Castellina Toscana IGT Rocca di Frassinello 2008, $48 (Prevedello & Matthews) -Farina Amarone Classico 2000, $190 (Majestic) -Gianni Gagliardo Barolo Serre 2006, $100 (Wine Lovers) -Marchese de Frescobaldi Tenuta di Castiglioni 2009 Toscana IGT (Lifford) -Ruffino Toscana Modus 2007, $28.95 Vintages -Tenuta Rocca di Fabbri Sagrantino di Montefalco 2005, $48 (Hobbs & Co.) -Tenuta Sant'Antonio Amarone della Valpolicella Campo dei Gigli 2006, $80.95 (Mark Anthony)
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Aurelio Settimo Barolo Rocche dell' Annunziata 2007, $52.95 (Profile) -Aurelio Settimo Barolo Rocche 2006, $52.95 (Profile) -Aurelio Settimo Barolo Rocche 2005, $52.95 (Profile) -Bersano Barolo Nirvasco 2007, $39.95 (Profile) -Borgo Scopeto e Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino La Casa 2006, $62.95 (The Case for Wine) -Borgo Scopeto e Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino 2006, $39.95 (The Case for Wine) -Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino 2006, $59.95 Vintages Feb 2012 -Castello Banfi Chianti Classico Riserva 2008, $27.95 Vintages Feb 2012 -Castello di Meleto Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna Casi 2006 (Hanna) -Castello di Meleto Toscana IGT Fiore 2006 (Hanna) -Castello di Meleto Toscana IGT Rainero 2005 (Hanna) -Castello di Meleto Toscana IGT Borgaio 2009 (Hanna) -San Felice Il Grigio Chianti Classico Riserva 2006, Vintages Dec 2011 -San Felice Poggio Rosso Chianti Classico Riserva 2006, $52.95 LCBO online -San Felice Pugnitello IGT Toscana 2007, $52.95 (Hanna) -San Felice Brunello di Montalcino Campogiovanni 2005, $44.95 Vintages -San Valentino Terra di Covignano Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore Riserva 2007, $47.40 (Le Sommelier) -San Valentino Luna Nuova Rosso Rubicone IGT 2007, $48.53 (Le Sommelier) -Castello di Neive Barbaresco Santo Stefano 2008, $55 (Brunello) -Castello di Neive Barbaresco 2008, $18.90 LCBO -Concilio Trentino Gewurztraminer 2010, $20 (Profile) -Domini Castellare di Castellina Toscana IGT Le Sughere di Frassinello 2008, $31.95 (Prevedello & Matthews) -Domini Castellare di Castellina Chianti Classico Riserva 2008, (Prevedello & Matthews) -Feudi di San Marzano "F" Negroamaro Salento IGT 2008, $38.95 (Profile) -Feudi di San Marzano Primitivo Puglia IGT 2010, $32.95 (Profile) -Gianni Gagliardo Barolo 2006, $40 (Wine Lovers) -Marchese de Frescobaldi Castelgiocondo Brunello di Montalcino 2006 (Lifford) -Masseria del Feudo Il Giglio Bianco Sicilia IGT 2010, $16.95 (Ex- Cellars) -Masseria del Feudo Il Giglio Sicilia IGT 2009, $21.50 (Ex-Cellars) -Masseria del Feudo Haermosa Sicilia IGT 2009, $26.95 (Ex-Cellars) -Masseria del Feudo Rosso delle Rose Sicilia IGT 2007, $29.95 (Ex- Cellars) -Tenuta Sant'Antonio Amarone della Valpolicella Selezione Antonio Castagnedi 2007 (Mark Anthony) -Tenuta Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino Vigneto Manachiara 2006, $69 (Majestic) -MGM Mondo del Vino Moscato d'Asti Ricossa 2010, $16.95 (Select) -Michelle Satta Bolgheri Rosso Piastraia 2007, $40 (Majestic) -Michelle Satta Toscana IGT Cavaliere 2005, $50 (Majestic) -Ottoventi Sicilia IGT Nero 2008, $22.95 (Case for Wine) -Pietro Rinaldi Barbaresco San Cristoforo 2007, $44.95 (Connextion Oenophilia) -PWS Amarone Della Valpolicella Le Arche 2008 (Ruby) -Rocca delle Macie Chianti Classico Famiglia Zingarelli Riserva 2007 (Noble Estates) -Sella & Mosca Alghero Marchese di Villamarina 2006, $35 (Majestic) -Tenuta Rocca Barolo 2005, $39.95 Vintages -Tenuta Rocca Barolo 2007, $49.95 (Ex-Cellars) -Tenuta Rocca Langhe Red Ornati 2006, $29.95 (Ex-Cellars) -Tenuta Rocca di Fabbri Rosso di Montefalco 2008, $24.99 (Hobbs & Co.) -Tenuta Rocca di Fabbri Rosso di Montefalco Riserva 2007, $38 (Hobbs & Co.)
*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Borgo Scopeto e Caparzo Rosso di Montalcino 2009, $19.95 (The Case for Wine) -Borgo Scopeto e Caparzo Chianti Classico 2008, $18.95 (The Case for Wine) -Ciu Ciu Evoe Offida Passerina Marche IGT 2010, $16.95 (Le Sommelier) -Ciu Ciu Evoe Le Meriette Pecorino Offida Marche 2009, $16.95 Vintages -San Valentino Scabi Sangiovese di Romagna 2009, $21.41 (Le Sommelier) -San Valentino Eclissi di Sole Rosso Rubicone IGT 2010, $28.19 (Le Sommelier) -Ottoventi Sicilia IGT Nerello Mascalese 2007, $31.95 (Case for Wine) -Pietro Rinaldi Barolo Monvigliero 2007, $49.95 (Connextion Oenophilia) -Pietro Rinaldi Langhe Nebbiolo Argante 2008, $29.95 (Connextion Oenophilia) -PWS Barolo Colarej Gemma 2006, $34.95 (Ruby) -Rocca delle Macie Chianti Classico Famiglia Zingarelli 2009 (Noble Estates) -Umani Ronchi Conero Riserva Cumaro 2007, $39 (Wine Lovers Agency)
The Food: as always, the food was a highlight. There was lasagna, baked pasta with eggplant, salumis, tomato and mozzarella, hazelnuts, walnuts, cheeses (Gorgonzola, Asiago, Parmigiano Reggiano), truffled tapenade crostini, prosciutto, and more catered from Paganelli's. The Downside: due to restraints, there was no seminar this year. The Upside: it was also a small show, allowing more time to taste a wider sample of wines. The Contact Person: firstname.lastname@example.org The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 93.
The Date and Time: Wednesday, October 19, 2011 6:30 PM to 7:30 PM The Event: Sip and Savour; Ontario wines and Ontario food The Venue: Steam Whistle Brewing Roundhouse The Target Audience: VIPs and wine judges. The Availability/Catalogue: most of the wines were award-winners, from 25 Ontario wineries. Wines were mostly available at the winery. The Quote/Background: There were also live culinary demonstrations and great foods. The Wines: I did not taste every wine.
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Chateau des Charmes Old Vines Riesling 2008, $16.95 Vintages Dec -Chateau des Charmes Rose Sparkling MC 2008, $28.95 Vintages -Creekside Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2007, $26.95 -Exultet Estates Chardonnay 2009, $49.95 -Konzelmann Gewurztraminer Late Harvest 2008, $17 LCBO -Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Chardonnay 2009, Vintages $30 -Le Clos Jordanne Village Talon Ridge 2009, Vintages $37 -Nyarai Cellars Viognier 2010, $20.75 -Nyarai Cellars Veritas 2007, $24.95 -Riverview Cellars Angelina's Reserve Chardonnay 2008, $19.5 LCBO -Tawse Robyn's Block Chardonnay 2009, $42.95 -Wayne Gretzky Shiraz Cabernet 2008, Vintages $22.95
The Food: there were food pairing stations (Drake Hotel had smoked pastrami salmon; Globe Bistro had rabbit confit rillette; Boiler House had smoked duck breast; the Old Mill had tomato tarte tatin with beef cheek; Frank AGO had lamb meatballs; Longo's had pulled pork; Cupcake Diner had, well, cupcakes). The Dairy Farmers of Ontario had Evanturel Cheese from Thornloe, Cottage Gold from Upper Canada Cheese Co., and six-year old cheddar from Black River Cheese. The Downside: it was sheer hell outside, cold and rainy. Since this was a sold-out consumer show, lots of people still came. The Upside: some great quality Ontario wines, many of them showstoppers. The Contact Person: email@example.com The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 91.
The Date and Time: Tuesday, October 18, 2011 8PM to midnight The Event: Austrian Wine Magnum Party, sponsored by the Austrian Wine Marketing Board. The Venue: Niagara Street Cafe The Target Audience: wine media, agents, and guests The Availability/Catalogue: no magnums are available in Ontario, but 750mL versions are. The Quote/Background: all wines poured were from magnums, especially acquired for the evening. John Szabo and A.M. Potvin of Niagara Café did the major pouring. The Wines: Thirteen wines were poured; I did not have access to three of them.
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Fred Loimer Kamptal Riesling 2007 Steinmassl Langenlois
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Rabl Kamptal Gruner Veltliner Reserve 2008 -Nigl Kremstal Gruner Veltliner Privat 2009 -Meinklang Neusiedlersee Gruner Veltliner 2009 -Salomon Undhof Kremstal Riesling Kogl 2009 -Sabathi Hannes Sudsteiermark Sauvignon Blanc Klassik 2010 -Weinrieder Niederosterreich Riesling Eiswein Schneiderberg 2008
*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Laurenz Five Niederosterreich Gruner Veltliner Charming 2009 -Brundlmayer Kamptal Gruner Veltliner Kaferberg 2009 -Schmelz Wachau Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Pichl-Point 2007
The Food: under the watchful eye of A.M. Potvin of the Niagara Street Café a variety of cheeses and platters. I was unable to get anything from a platter since I was stuck in one corner of the bar. The Downside: it got crowded really fast, which made it awkward to get tasting samples at the bar. The Upside: I was one of the few to be able to name three DACs, the so- called price of admission (no one was refused). The Contact Person: Toronto@advantageaustria.org The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 88.
WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR NOVEMBER 12, 2011 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing firstname.lastname@example.org. Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1995. My tastings are based on MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for re-tasting from another bottle.
TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 1. Rutherford Ranch Chardonnay 2009 Napa: restaurant-ready wine, balanced, lots of fruit, lightly wooded cream-like texture. +136382, $18.95, QPR: 90. 2. Kuhlmann Platz Pinot Gris 2008 Alsace: rich, ripe, yet dry finish, Concentrated flavours on the mid-palpate, 13.5% ABV. QPR: 90. 3. Casa del Bosque Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Casablanca: good MVC, intense character but modest body. 12.5% ABV. +974717m $14.95, QPR: 89. 4. Vinum Africa Chenin Blanc 2009 WO Western Cape: tasty, dry chenin like savvy but bellowed by some BF wine. 13.5% ABV, +739995, $14.95, QPR: 89.
TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 1. Chateau Lafon Cuvee Classic 2006 Listrac: juicy, new style but some mushrooms too. 12.5%, good value (already 5 years old). +165399, $16.95, QPR: 90. 2. Sampietrana Vigna delle Monache Riserva Salice Salentino 2006: delivers the delicious goods, very North American appeal for a fat, fleshy, fruity wine. 13.5% ABV. +247908, $15.94, QPR: 90. 3. Bod. I Marin Duque de Medina Gran Reserva 2000 DO Carinena: great maturing complexity in this decade old wine, 12.5% ABV, black fruit and wood. +148494, $18.95, QPR: 90. 4. Vina Requingua Toro de Piedra Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2008 Curico: delicious cabby feel, black all the way, long rich finish. 14% ABV. +39362, $14.95, QPR: 89. 5. Henry's Drive Pillar Box Red 2008 Padthaway: despite 14.5% ABV, a modest finish, but still a decent Oz shiraz. +685941, $14.95, QPR: 89. 6. Chateau La Cheze 2005 Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux: basic MVC for a six year old Bordeaux, enjoyable. +244038, $18.95, QPR: 89. 7. Villa Girardi Bure Alto Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2009: Ripasso of the month at the LCBO, 13.5% ABV. +161844, $17.95, QPR: 89.
VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10 markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.
Dean Tudor, Ryerson University Journalism Professor Emeritus Treasurer, Wine Writers' Circle of Canada Look it up and you'll remember it; screw it up and you'll never forget it. Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com
The Date and Time: Tuesday, October 18, 2011 2Pm to 8 PM The Event: Annual Port and Douro Wines Tasting from the Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e do Porto. The Venue: Design Exchange The Target Audience: wine trade and private clients The Availability/Catalogue: just about all the wines were available in Ontario's distribution channels. The catalogue had pertinent data but not always on prices. The Quote/Background: it was a small show (about 10 agents representing 20 wineries) but with great food. The Wines: I did not taste all the ports; I tried to taste all the table wines.
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Adriano Ramos Pinto Duas Quinta Especial Red 2004, $72 -Taylor Fladgate 30 Year Old Tawny, $178.95 -Taylor Fladgate 40 Year Old Tawny, $224.95 -Taylor Fladgate Vargellas Vinha Velha 2009, $275 -Veedha DOC 2008 Douro, $12.95 -Quinta do Vallado 2009 Douro -Quinta do Noval Touriga Nacional 2008 Douro -Warre's Vintage Port 1994, $99.95 -Graham's Chryseia 2007 Douro, $73.95
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Adriano Ramos Pinto Duas Quinta Especial Red 2007, $41 -Taylor Fladgate 10 Year Old Tawny, $34.95 -Taylor Fladgate 20 Year Old Tawny, $67.95 -Taylor Fladgate Vintage 2009, $139 -Croft Vintage 2009, $125 -Ferreira LBV 20 Years Old -Ferreira Esteva Douro 2010, $11 -Casa Burmester 2008 Douro, $14.95 -Hutcheson Colheita 1999, $29.95 -Calem Colheita 1998, $25.95 -Quinta do Vallado Touriga Nacional 2009 Douro -Quinta do Vallado Reserva Field Blend 2009 Douro -Jorge Manuel Nobre Moreira Poeira 2008, $50 -Lavradores de Feitoria Tres Bagos Sauvignon 2010 Douro, $19.95 -Lavradores de Feitoria Tres Bagos 2007 Douro, $17.95 -Lavradores de Feitoria Quinta da Costa das Aguaneiras 2007 Douro, $34.95 -Lavradores de Feitoria Tres Bagos Grande Escolha 2007 Douro, $59.95 -Quinta do Noval Colheita 1997 -Quinta do Infantado 2009 Douro, $21.95 -Warre's Otima Tawny 20 Years Old, $39.95 -Dow's Vintage Port 1997, $84.95 -Graham's Tawny Port 20 Years Old, $36.95
*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Sandeman VAU 2000, $19.95 -Jorge Manuel Nobre Moreira Po Poeira 2008, $27 -Lavradores de Feitoria Meruge 2007 Douro, $34.95 -Warre's Otima Tawny 10 Years Old, $21.95 -Graham's Tawny Port 10 Years Old, $27.95
The Food: chocolate truffles; pears and walnuts; chicken, shrimp, beef apps; cheese (Stilton, Brie, Manchego, et al) The Downside: it was a smaller show than in previous years. The Upside: more chance to talk to agents and principals. The Contact Person: email@example.com The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 88.
The Date and Time: Sunday October 16, 2011 5PM to 7 PM The Event: Clos Figueras winery tasting with proprietor Christopher Cannan. The Venue: Le Kensington Bistro et Rotisserie The Target Audience: wine media, John Hanna & Sons clients The Availability/Catalogue: everything was private order JH & S The Quote/Background: In 1978, Cannan started Europvin, a Bordeaux- based negociant that soon had 400 wineries under its wings. In 1997, he purchased Clos Figueras in Priorat and refurbished the winery. The Wines: The winery is Clos Figueras; the estate wine is Clos Figueres.
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Clos Figueres 2006 DOQ Priorat, $89.95, generally 70% grenache and carignan, 20% syrah, 10% mourvedre and cab sauv.
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Font de la Figuera Blanco 2010 DOQ Priorat, $49.95 -Font de la Figuera Tinto 2008 DOQ Priorat, $49.95 -Serras del Priorat Tinto DOQ Priorat, $39.95 (Rhone-like field blend)
The Food: originally the tasting was to be tapas at Torito's, but they had kitchen problems and were closed. So we all went down the street to Le Kensington Bistro for a collection of apps such as pig ears. Cheeses, breads, in-house cured salmon, blood sausage, duck prosciutto, chicken livers with cognac, rilettes, dry sausages and more, on a series of charcuterie platters. Good, solid food that stood up to the wines. The Downside: the tasting area was smaller than expected and got really crowded really fast. The Upside: a chance to catch up with Cannan, whom I last saw a few years back. The Contact Person: firstname.lastname@example.org The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 89.
The Date and Time: Monday, October 24, 2011 11:30 AM to 3 PM The Event: Tasting seminar on Concha y Toro's new releases (Marques de Casa Concha, Casillero del Diablo, and the new premium wines from Maycas del Limari), with winemaker Marcelo Papa, one of the four chief winemakers with Concha y Toro. The Venue: Fairmont Royal York, Salon 2 The Target Audience: wine media The Availability/Catalogue: most wines are (or will be) available through the LCBO channels. The Quote/Background: The award winning Papa is known for his premium wines; he developed the seminar wines, and spoke to them with his insight. He expounded on the new Maycas del Limari series, wines made only from coastal Limari-grown grapes. I also enjoyed his talk on jousts with the marketing team at Concha y Toro. The Wines: We tasted 7 wines in the Casillero series before the event (all lined price, except where noted, at $11.95), plus 10 wines in the seminar.
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Marques de Casa Concha Chardonnay 2009 Limari, $17.95 Vintages -Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, $19.95 Vintages Essential -Maycas del Limari Reserva Especial Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, $19.95 Vintages February 4, 2012 -Maycas del Limari Reserva Especial Chardonnay 2009, $19.95 Vintages -Maycas del Limari Reserva Especial Syrah 2009, $19.95 Vintages June 9, 2012.
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Casillero del Diablo Merlot 2010 Reserva Rapel, LCBO -Casillero del Diablo Carmenere 2010 Reserva Rapel, LCBO -Casillero del Diablo Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Reserva Central, LCBO -Casillero del Diablo Brut Reserva NV Limari, $13.95 private order -Marques de Casa Concha Pinot Noir 2010 Limari, $19.95 private order -Marques de Casa Concha Syrah 2008 Maipo, $19.95 Vintages -Marques de Casa Concha Merlot 2009 Rapel, $19.95 Vintages June 9, 2012 -Marques de Casa Concha Carmenere 2009 Rapel, $19.95 Vintages
*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms): -Casillero del Diablo Sauvignon Blanc 2011 Reserva Central, LCBO $10.95 -Casillero del Diablo Malbec 2010 Reserva Rapel, LCBO -Casillero del Diablo Shiraz 2010 Reserva Rapel, LCBO -Casillero del Diablo Cabernet Syrah Reserva Privada 2009 Maipo, $15.95 private order.
The Food: we had an open menu lunch at Epic, with some of the wines from the seminar. I had seafood risotto and black cod. The food and white wines were fabulous together. The Downside: it was one of many wine tastings that day. The Upside: a chance to talk with Marcelo Papa The Contact Person: email@example.com The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 92.