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Wednesday, August 29, 2012

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR SEPTEMBER 1, 2012


WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR SEPTEMBER 1, 2012
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at
http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news
items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at
www.deantudor.com since 1994. My tastings are based on MVC (Modal
Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices
are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does
NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product
consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.
 

======>>>> ** BEST WINE OF THE RELEASE *UNDER* $20
 
Monasterio de las Vinas Reserva 2006 Carinena Spain: like a southern
Rhone, but a blend of Tempranillo, carignan and grenache (GTC?). Barrel
aging emphasizes spices. Black fruit dominates. Bargain priced.
+166579, $13.95, QPR: 90.
 
======>>>> ** BEST WINE OF THE RELEASE *OVER* $20
 
Merry Edwards Pinot Noir 2009 Russian River Valley Meredith Vineyard,
+656868, $64.95.
 
TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Mike Weir Riesling 2010 VQA Niagara: off-dry taste and tones, very
nicely made, well-rounded, 12% ABV, MVC. +229286, $14.95, QPR: 89.
2. Andre Blanck & Ses Fils Rosenbourg Pinot Blanc 2011 Alsace:
affordable summery wine (only a few weeks left!), minerals and some
lean and green tones. 12.5% ABV. +626606, $13.95, QPR: 89.
3. Joseph Cattin Gewurztraminer 2010 Alsace: lots of Gewurz MVC playing
around, with flowers, spices, and that famous finish. Gold Medalist.
+224626, $16.95, QPR: 90.
4. Antonin Rodet Chateau de Mercey Chardonnay Bourgogne 2009: basic and
affordable white burgundy for under a double sawbuck, MVC, 13% ABV.
+278978, $19.95, QPR: 89.
5. Donatien Bahuaud Les Grands Mortiers Vouvray 2011: a medium off-dry
chenin blanc from the Loire, 12% ABV, with some forest floor complexity
and orchard notes. +140889, $15.95, QPR: 89.
6. Pedro Escudero Fuente Elvira Verdejo 2010 Rueda: a quality summer
sipper, 13.5% ABV, orchard fruit and citrus tones. Sip or with first
course food. +218313, $14.95, QPR: 89.
 
TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. McManis Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 California: juicy Cal feel, BBQ,
good depth to the finish, 13.5% ABV. +212126, $19.95, QPR: 89.
2. Vina Maipo Gran Devocion Carmenere/Syrah 2009 Maule Valley:
absolutely delicious fresh fruity wine, with many berry tones. 14.5%
ABV. +274100, $16.95, QPR: 90.
3. Vina Tarapaca Gran Reserva Carmenere 2010 Maipo: many herbs in this
big wine, 14$ ABV. +57513, $16.95, QPR: 89.
4. John Hancock Trinity Hill Syrah 2010 Hawkes Bay: excellent North
Rhone style wine, with a whiff of brett, plus, chocolate, black fruit,
14% ABV. Gold medalist. 194274, $20.95, QPR: 90.
5. Chateau La Gorce 2008 Medoc: excellent MVC example of a quality
Bordeaux at a decent price, 13.5% ABV. Gold Medalist. +280057, $16.95,
QPR: 89.
6. Chateau Cesseras Rouge 2008 Minervois la Liviniere: cabernet franc
with a long herby finish, 13% ABV. Lip-smacking. +690570, $19.95, QPR:
89.
7. Jean-Luc Baldes Triguedina La Chapelle du Clos Malbec Cahors 2008:
good depth to the long finish, lots of ed fruit and mocha tones. 13.5%
ABV. +27653, $16.95, QPR: 89.
8. Giordano Maestri Italiani Nebbiolo d'Alba 2009: great nebbiolo MVC,
lay down for a year or two, 13.5% ABV. Like a lighter Barolo. +159483,
$16.95, QPR: 89.
9. Sampietrana Vigna della Monache Riserva Salice Salentino 2006
Puglia: fruity, plummy, mocha, 13.5% ABV. Concentrated tones. +247908,
$15.95, QPR: 89.
10. Legon Crianza 2008 Ribera del Duero: MVC delicious, with great
North American appeal. Strongly wooded, 13.5% ABV. +276089, $15.95,
QPR: 89.
11. Bod. Patrocinio Senorio de Unuela Reserva 2007 Rioja: a good price
for a nicely aged Rioja at the reserve level. 14.5% ABV. +172536,
$17.95, QPR: 89.
 
VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.
 
1. Marimar Estate La Masia Don Miguel Vineyard Chardonnay 2008 Russian
River Valley, +270090, $25.95 retail.
2. Treana Marsanne/Viognier 2009 Central Coast, +11247, $29.95
3. Seguinot-Bordet Vaillons Chablis 1er Cru 2010, +289389, $29.95.
4. Jean Pabiot Domaine des Fines Caillottes Pouilly-Fume 2010, +695908,
$21.5.
5. Lailey Pinot Noir 2010 Niagara VQA, +591404, $24.95
6. Farina Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2008, +995910, $34.95.
7. Starry Night Old Vine Zinfandel 2007 Russian River Valley, +293332,
$32.95.
8. Masi Bossi Fedrigotti Fojaneghe Rosso 2008 IGT Vigneti delle
Dolomiti Alto Adige, +279109, $29.95.
9. Rivera Il Falcone Riserva 2007 Castel del Monte Puglia, +177295,
$22.95.
10. Castello di Bossi C. Berardenga Chianti Classico 2009, +994608,
$22.95.
 

Monday, August 27, 2012

Aug 20: Savour Stratford Perth County Culinary Festival 2012 kickoff at the Drake

The Date and Time:  Monday, August 20, 2012    7PM to 10 PM

The Event: Savour Stratford Perth County Culinary Festival 2012 Kickoff.

The Venue: The Drake

The Target Audience: regulars and the food and wine press

The Availability/Catalogue: we were sampling all manner of food and drink, all available in Ontario. The dates for the Festival, in Stratford, are Sept 21 through 23. Check out www.savourstratford.com

for more details.

The Quote/Background: This was an introduction to what was new at this year's Festival. It features five top Canadian award-winning chefs from coast-to-coast, a section for BBQ-Blues Music-and Brews, a sort of southern fried affair with country rock music. There are thirty tastings and talks, ranging from apartment farming to fermenting.

The Drinks we sampled: I passed on the three cocktails, sorry.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Chateau des Charmes Rose Cuvee d'Andree 2011 VQA, $11.95

-Mill Street Organic Beer

-Mill Street Lemon Tea Beer

 

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (8890 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Chateau des Charmes Aligote 2010 VQA, $13.55

-Chateau des Charmes Pinot Noir 2008 VQA, $14.55

 

The Food: Monforte, located in Stratford, showed three cheeses – Toscano (dry hard sheep), Piacere (creamy with herbs), and Chimay (runny), augmented by their sesame seed crackers and preserves. Rene's Bistro featured heavy lollipop dough balls and raspberries. Mercer Hall nosh menu included pastrami slider on brioche, lardo wrapped pickled veggies, and a beef tartare with tenderloin, shallot, ancho chile, and sous-vide egg yolk, on a house made potato chip. All the food was yummy, except maybe the dough balls.

The Downside: I had just returned from a long day at Vineland Estate in Niagara.

The Upside: a chance to connect with the Siren Group doing the PR and Ivy Knight who takes command of the drake every Monday night with her 86'd.

The Contact Person: renee@thesirengroup.com and info@savourstratford.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 89.
 

Saturday, August 25, 2012

Aug 20: Vertical Tasting of Semi-Dry Riesling Wines at Vineland Estates

 

The Date and Time:  Monday, August 20, 2012    8:45 AM to 6PM

The Event: a day long excursion to Vineland Estates in Niagara, for a tasting of Semi-Dry Riesling wines from the past, a lunch, and a sampling of new releases at the tasting room, plus a quick tour of the vineyards.

The Venue: Vineland Estates in Vineland (www.vineland.com)

The Target Audience: Wine Writers' Circle of Canada members. The Toronto members came down on a Vineland bus; local Niagara members came with their cars.

The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available at the winery, some are at the LCBO, the older wines are not necessarily available, but do see below for some older wines that are,

The Quote/Background: Brian Schmidt, VP and Winemaker, took us through the tasting of the Semi-Dry Rieslings and answered any questions on the other wines at our lunch.

The Wines: We began with two Bruts, then seven Rieslings (in their St. Urbain vineyard), followed by oysters and then lunch, with half a dozen more wines, followed by what we each wanted to taste at the tasting bar.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Vineland Estates Semi-Dry Riesling Reserve 2004

-Vineland Estates Cabernet Franc 2010, 12.95

-Vineland Estates Chenin Blanc 2011, $16.95

-Vineland Estates Elevation Cabernet 2009, $25

-Vineland Estates Chardonnay Reserve 2009, $35

-Vineland Estates Brut Riesling 2008, $22.95

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (8890 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Vineland Estates Semi-Dry Riesling 1989 [from ten year old vines]

-Vineland Estates Semi-Dry Riesling 1995

-Vineland Estates St. Urbain Riesling 2002

-Vineland Estates Elevation Riesling 2011, $19.95

-Vineland Estates Chardonnay Unoaked 2011, $12.95

-Vineland Estates Cabernet Merlot 2011, $15

-Vineland Estates Pinot Meunier 2011, $17.95

-Vineland Estates Chenin Blanc 2007, $16.95

-Vineland Estates Sauvignon Blanc 2009, $16.95

-Vineland Estates Elevation Sauvignon Blanc 2008, $19.95

-Vineland Estates Cabernet Merlot Reserve 2007, $40

-Vineland Estates Meritage Reserve 2007, $85

-Vineland Estates Brut Reserve 2008, $19.95

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (8587 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Vineland Estates Semi-Dry Riesling 1993

-Vineland Estates Elevation Riesling 2008, $19.95

-Vineland Estates Semi-Dry Riesling 2009, $13.95

-Vineland Estates Fume Blanc Reserve 2007, $25

-O'Leary Unoaked Chardonnay 2011, $14.95

 

Older Semi-Dry Riesling wines still available (but not tasted by me) at Vineland include the 1992 ($30), the 1994 ($30), the 198 ($30), the 1999 ($30), the 2000 ($25) and the 2004 ($25). There is also a range of Dry Riesling from 1996 ($30) to 1999 ($30) to 2004-5-6 ($25 each). Well-recommended to taste as a vertical.

 

The Food: with the fabulous cured salmon and mozzarella/tomato appetizer we had the 2009 Semi-Dry Riesling (9% ABV, $13.95). With the stunning pickerel and bok choy, we had the 2011 O'Leary Chardonnay (12% ABV, $14.95) and the Chardonnay Unoaked 2011 (12.5% ABV, $12.95). The cheese platter had a local sheep a blue, and a cheddar, to augment the 2010 O'Leary Cabernet Merlot ($14.95), the 2009 Cabernet Elevation ($25) and the 2010 Cabernet Franc ($12.95). I unfortunately missed most of the grilled local peach dessert (I was at the tasting bar), which was complemented with a 2008 Riesling Icewine.

The Contact Person: bschmidt@vineland.com or david@davidhulley.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 94.
 

Thursday, August 23, 2012

TASTING: Benjamin Bridge 2004 sparklers vs. Cristal 2004, at Canoe

1. The Date and Time: Tuesday, August 14, 2012 2 PM to 4 PM
The Event: A comparative tasting of Benjamin Bridge sparklers with fine
Champagne, plus an introduction to Versado Malbec (Argentina).
The Venue: Canoe
The Target Audience: selected wine writers and sommeliers
The Availability/Catalogue: The champagnes are available in Ontario, the
Nova was just released, the Versado is coming next March 2013, but there is
no word on the Benjamin Bridge which are currently available in Nova Scotia.
The Quote/Background: Peter Gamble, formerly head of VQA in Ontario, is now
consulting on wines for Benjamin Bridge in NS, and has a winery in Argentina
for a Malbec planting. He led the seminar.
The Wines: First, we had a Nova 7 while we chatted. Then there was a blind
tasting, with at least one champagne and two Benjamin Bridges. I was able to
identify the Roederer Cristal 2004 (so obvious, who couldn't?) in glass
number three. I thought maybe the first wine could have been the Benjamin
Bridge Brut Reserve 2004 Late Disgorgement LD (seven years on the yeast
lees). But it could also have been a Champagne, possibly NV. The second wine
was definitely a Bridge. The fourth wine was also a Bridge, but it was
slightly better in taste with more yeast complexity. There were only two
tech sheets for the Bridge wines, so I reasoned that there were only two
Bridge sparklers. The big question was: how many champagnes were there?
Peter is tricky enough that he could have introduced a third Bridge, the
2004 Blanc de Noirs. But I was lazy, so I went with the simple - the first
wine was a mystery, the second was the Benjamin Bridge Brut Reserve 2004,
the third wine was the Cristal 2004, and the fourth wine was the LD 2004. I
scored three out of four correctly.
Peter Gamble's winery Versado Estate, with his partner Ann Sperling, has 8
hectares, with 3 planted with Malbec (1920 start) and Tempranillo. His
Versado Estate Old Vine Malbec 2010 Mendoza was tarry even at this early
stage, and showed massive depth and development. The Reserva 2009 is even
better, but then it has had a year longer in aging, integrating the oak
carefully. Both need more time. In fact this was its first showing outside
Argentina - the wines will be coming to Vintages in late March 2013.
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Roederer Cristal 2004, $286.95
-Benjamin Bridge Brut Reserve 2004 Late Disgorgement LD, $89.50
-Versado Estate Malbec Reserva 2009 Mendoza, $60 March 2013 Vintages

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 - 90 in Quality/Price Rating
terms):
-Benjamin Bridge Nova 7, $25 LCBO - just released at Vintages. Sparkling
Moscato wine from several different muscat varieties, 8.5% ABV.
-Benjamin Bridge Brut Reserve 2004, $74.50
-David Léclapart L'Apôtre Blanc de Blanc 2005, $134 (grower's champagne)
-Versado Estate Old Vines Malbec 2010 Mendoza, $25 March 2013 Vintages

The Food: bread and water
The Contact Person: peterjgamble@sympatico.ca
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 92.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Tuesday, August 21, 2012

SCHOLARLY, ACADEMIC, AND CULTURAL FOOD BOOKS

 
WHY CALORIES COUNT; from science to politics (University of
California Press, 2012, 288 pages, ISBN 978-0-520-26288-1, $29.95 US
hard covers) is by Marion Nestle, an academic at New York University,
and Malden Nesheim, a professor emeritus from Cornell University. They
had collaborated on an earlier work about pet food, while Nestle is
well-known for such political books as Food Politics, Safe Food, and
Pet Food Politics. This book is one of the California Studies in Food
and Culture series, but of course, its scope is not limited to
California. It's a look at underlying issues related to diet, food,
weight loss, weight gain, and obesity around the globe. The authors
constantly have rough edges when they look at food manufacturers and
diet promoters. Politics comes in because there is a food industry, it
employs people, it has lobby groups, it is profit-making, and it wants
to make more money. In some respects, it's a lot like Big Pharma, but
while the prices are lower, the stakes are higher. Nestle (no relation,
of course) and Nesheim give plenty of facts to support their cases, and
there is much detail here for readers to do their own interpretation of
food labeling, diet claims, weighing the evidence, and the like. The
book concludes with a FAQ that should be of interest to book clubs or
promotional tours. And copious end notes with bibliographic notes for
further reading.
Audience and level of use: those who ant to know more about the
politics of food, food activists, libraries.
Some interesting or unusual facts: 2% of the calories from ingested
alcohol were lost from the lungs, skin and kidneys. 98% of the calories
obtained from alcohol are processed by the body, and they are "empty"
calories.
The downside to this book: people who hear about this book are bound to
be one of the congregation anyway – there still needs to be a more
"popular" shoutout or Internet meme series.
The upside to this book: they give a mantra for all of us – GET
ORGANIZED. EAT LESS, EAT BETTER. MOVE MORE. GET POLITICAL.
Quality/Price Rating: 90.
 
 
 

4. HERBS; a global history (Reaktion Books, 2012; distr. University of
Chicago Press, 166 pages, ISBN 978-1-86189-925-5, $17 US hard covers)
is by Gary Allen, author of The Herbalist in the Kitchen (2007),
amongst other books.
 
5. GIN; a global history (Reaktion Books, 2012, 167 pages, ISBN 978-
1-86189-924-8, $17 US hard covers) is by Lesley Jacobs Solmonson, a
print food writer and a blogger (www.12bottlebar.com).
 
6. RUM; a global history (Reaktion Books, 2012, 141 pages, ISBN 978-
1-86189-926-2, $17 US hard covers) is by Richard Foss, a food historian
and journalist.
 
7. VODKA; a global history (Reaktion Books, 2012, 165 pages, ISBN 978-
1-86189-929-3, $17 US hard covers) is by Patricia Herlihy, who once
taught at Brown and is now Professor at Emmanuel College in Boston.
 
These books are all part of the Edible Series; they now number some 30
books in a uniform format. Edible is a great series, offering thumbnail
profiles and engaging memoirs of foods. You don't need to collect them
all: if you hate olives (as does a friend of mine), then just avoid
that book. They've all got some traditional history, cultural history,
food history, and some travel/geography notes. Each volume has a
selection of recipes (with both metric and avoirdupois measurements),
end notes, bibliography, and a listing of websites and associations.
There are also terrific full-colour photos and an index.
 
"Herbs" are often considered weeds, but there are hundreds of uses for
them, from medicinal to savoury dishes – and throughout history.
 
"Gin" is a brief history, from Dutch origins to British misery to its
current global status. It uses "herbs" in its blending, and there are
secretive formulas of botanicals. Gin was probably more responsible for
cocktails than any other distilled spirit.
 
"Rum" is a colourful book, in that it documents elements of the slave
trade and highlights rum's early base character as a raw spirit derived
from molasses. It has had an impact on punches, the British Navy, as
well as the islands of the Caribbean, of course, and popular music.
 
"Vodka" is basically a non-descript spirit (it is, after all, just
alcohol) which can be flavoured thousands of different ways. This
history begins with Slavic origins from the 14th century, and moves
through the tumultuous war periods. Again, like Gin, Vodka is a source
of misery for certain cultures, like Russia. Still, a fascinating book
on how life got that way.
 
Audience and level of use: culinary historians, food lovers, spirits
lovers.
Some interesting or unusual facts: The Poles prefer to believe that
vodka originated with them in the 11th century. In 1710, rum rations to
the British Navy were set at half a pint a day (10 ounces). Rip Van
Winkle blames "genever" for his twenty-year sleep. Japanese nori
seaweed is also in the west of England and Wales where it is known as
laver.
The downside to this book: as with any profile, occasionally one may
wish for more detail about certain points.
The upside to this book: good, nifty self-contained books.
Quality/Price Rating: 90 each.
 
 
 
8. THE TRUCK FOOD COOKBOOK; 150 recipes and ramblings from America's
best restaurants on wheels. (Workman Publishing, 2012; distr. T. Allen,
294 pages, ISBN 978-0-7611-5616-1, $18.95 US soft covers) is by John
Edge, director of the Southern Foodways Alliance at the University of
Mississippi and free-lance food writer (he's been nominated five times
for a Beard Award). Here he explores the culture of street food, with
preps adapted for home cooking. They come from restaurants on wheels in
New York and Los Angeles, plus food carts and wagons in Portland,
Austin, and Minneapolis (among others). The arrangement is by food:
fries and pies, waffles, brunches, sandwiches, hot dogs, tacos, and
sweets. Within each category there's a couple of pages devoted to a
place, such as Jamerica Restaurant in Madison Wisconsin, with detail
about the establishment and a rundown on the special food, in this
case, Jamaican meat patties. This is followed by a home cook style
recipe (hey folks, do try this at home!!) You can adapt your own
seasoning level. Now you will miss chatting with the vendor and getting
all the latest scoops and anecdotes, but you'll be well-fed.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there are tables of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: armchair travelers, food culturalists.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: toritos; elotes; tamarind-
glazed fried chicken drumettes; falafel and egg hoagies; Korean short
ribs; Taiwanese fried chicken; garlic beef sauerkraut; adzuki chili;
kalbi beef sliders.
The downside to this book: it's over too soon.
The upside to this book: colourful, nicely adapted food, great for home
use.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.
 

9.SHORT COURSE IN BEER; in introduction to tasting and talking about
the world's most civilized beverage (Skyhorse Publishing, 2012; distr.
T. Allen, 216 pages, ISBN 978-1-61608-633-6, $14.95 US hard covers) is
by Lynn Hoffman, who remains unidentified in the book. It's a basic
affair, originally published in 2009, and comes without an index
(points off). Yet it is an interesting read since it covers the major
ground in a good writing style. There's the flavour of beer, food and
beer pairing, primer on brewing, a dictionary and glossary, beer
tourism, and some recommended reading. A solid basic book at an
affordable price. Quality/price rating: 84.
 
 
 
10. TASTES MATTERS; why we like the foods we do (Reaktion Books 2012,
208 pages, ISBN 978-1-86189-914-9, $30 US hard covers) is by John
Prescott, an Australian food scientist and editor of "Food Quality &
Preference" journal. It is a good explanation of why some of us enjoy
some foods while others don't. We all crave sweet tastes at birth
(energy, growth). Salt levels will vary from person to person and
region to region (I have a very low tolerance for salt and must
remember to drink liquids). Both sourness and bitterness are acquired
tastes; both are indicative of "bad" food, in varying degrees, and
again reflect personal choices (I don't like sour but I enjoy bitter
such as caffeine or herbs). Genes play a strong role: about a quarter
of the world are "supertasters" (such as myself). Each of those people
can have sixteen times more taste buds than the other three-quarters of
the world. His book is loaded with details of food cultures. Try also
www.taste-matters.org for more material.
Audience and level of use: parents with fussy or picky eaters.
Some interesting or unusual facts: Regular people seem to prefer fatty
foods, and hence can be more obese than supertasters. The latter,
though, are reluctant to consume "bitter greens".
The downside to this book:
The upside to this book: written for the common man.
Quality/Price Rating: 90.
 
 
 
11. TASTE WHAT YOU'RE MISSING; the passionate eater's guide to getting
more from every bite (Free Press, 2012; distr. Simon & Schuster, 416
pages, ISBN 978-1-439190-73-9, $26 US hard covers) is by Barb Stuckey,
a food developer researcher at Mattson, North America's largest
independent developer of new foods and beverages. It's a semi-technical
look at our taste buds and how and why we taste the way we do. Later,
she expounds on "how to get more from every bite". Her primer covers
the five basic tastes (bitter, sweet, sour, salt, and umami). But she
also explores other factors here such as "carbonation" and "fat", more
mouth-feels than tastes.  There is also the major importance of the
olfactory portion of enjoying our food, and, to a lesser extent, touch,
hearing and sight. Much of what she says is complemented by witty
humour and anecdotes. She provides "exercises" that we can perform to
learn about our basic preferences in tastes. There are web resources
listed for taste and smell centres around the world, a checklist of 15
ways to get more out of every bite (e.g., chew well), many taste
exercises, and some serious footnoting references. The half-dozen
preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: curious people who wan to know about
tasting.
Some interesting or unusual facts: Smoking impairs your ability to
smell. Don't smoke for two hours before and after a meal – you'll enjoy
the food more.
The downside to this book: there's a lot of tech talk, useful for the
committed foodie.
The upside to this book: good humour,
Quality/Price Rating: 90.
 

12. COFFEE LIFE IN JAPAN (University of California Press, 2012, 222
pages, ISBN 978-0-520-27115-9, $24.95 US soft covers) is by Merry
White, an anthropology professor at Boston University, and the author
of other books about Japanese culture. It is number 36 in a series,
"California Studies in Food and Culture". It traces Japan's café
society over 130 years. According to the publisher's succinct notes,
she "explores how coffee and coffee spaces have been central to the
formulation of Japanese notions about the uses of public space, social
change, modernity, and pleasure." One of the specific highlights is
that this is where women became free. The book is more on cafés than on
coffees, and it is more about urban spaces than a Japanese tea
ceremony. The café is the space in Japan's cities, not the teahouse.
There are extensive end notes and bibliographies, plus, of course, a
topical index. Black and white photos are scattered throughout. There
is also a listing (with notes) of important cafes in Japan.
Audience and level of use: coffee lovers, followers of Japanese culture
and history.
Some interesting or unusual facts: Café Paulista, founded in 1908 in
Ginza, is the oldest remaining coffeehouse. It was named after the city
of San Paulo because the Brazilian government furnished 100 free bags
of coffee each year, for promotional considerations.
The downside to this book: scholarly, detailed reading at times.
The upside to this book: a good slice of a mini-culture.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.
 

13. FORKS OVER KNIVES: the cookbook (The Experiment, 2012; distr. T.
Allen, 320 pages, ISBN 978-1-61519-061-4, $18.95 US soft covers) has
been assembled by Del Sroufe, and is based on the documentary "Forks
Over Knives" (2011) which examined the impact of animal/dairy foods on
the causes of degenerative diseases in humans. Apparently, a plant-
based diet decreases cancer growth and heart disease. There is a
compelling argument for this, in both the book and the movie. The book
is meant to accompany the movie since it provides 300 recipes.
Actually, there was an earlier book from last year that provided more
text but fewer recipes (125 or so from about two dozen people who
contributed the recipes, maybe five apiece).  Here, there's a broader
range, but a good introduction for those who are used to eating few
veggies. The food is both hearty and substantial, relying on legumes,
grains, fruits, roots and salads. There are a few of the really best
green plants here, but only 5 Swiss chard preps and 7 kale recipes. The
veggies with lower appeal seem to be missing (no Brussels sprouts)
although there are a dozen broccoli, eleven for cabbage. Still, it is a
good beginner book, driving home the philosophy of Michael Pollan and
the film. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois
measurements, but there are tables of metric equivalents. Quality/price
rating: 84.
 
 
 
14. CURRIED CULTURES; globalization, food and South Asia (University of
California Press, 2012, 316 pages, ISBN 978-0-520-27012-1, $27.95 US
paper covers) is a collection of articles edited by Krishnendu Ray and
Tulasi Srinivas. It's number 34 in the California Studies in Food and
Culture [California refers to the Press not the region being studied].
Both editors are academics and they deal with the manner in which the
urban middle class of India is driving the country, both within India
and abroad (the globalization). That's the simplistic annotation. Of
course, to academics, it is much m=re complex. These twelve essays
(three of which are basically reprinted from earlier times) cover the
range of historical pastas through colonial India, colonial Bengal,
hotels, foodways in Mumbai, South Asian restaurants in Britain, the
Pakistani grill in Manhattan, curry mahals, and female food
entrepreneurs. Many locations around the world have been impacted by
South Asian food, and this book explores just a few of them, through
the people, practices, culture and eating habits. Next up in the near
future: Indian agribusinesses expanding to Africa, buying up land. Ell
worth a read. Murky black and white photos, essay end notes, an
extensive bibliography for further reading, and an equally-extensive
index. Quality/Price Rating: 88.
 
 
 
15. TURKEY (Chronicle Books, 2012; distr. Raincoast, 272 pages, ISBN
978-1-4521-0770-7, $35 US hard covers) is by Leanne Kitchen, an
Australian chef who travels around Asia and the Middle East. The
location photos in this book are from her camera. Her book was
originally published in 2011 in Australia by Murdoch Books. The 100
preps cover the range from regional cooking to the Ottoman Empire
palaces. It is a combo travel and food book, oversized, useful as a
gift too. The cuisine was shaped by three cultures: Mediterranean,
Middle East, and Slavic, with a healthy mix of Islamic and Orthodox
religious foods. Short travelogue pieces set the tone for the regional
specialities, artisans, culinary techniques and restaurants. Each of
the seven geographic regions provides their own unique food cultures.
The book, though, is arranged by course: meze, soups, breads/pasta,
veggies and salads, rice/bulgur, seafood, poultry and meat, and
desserts, about 12 preps each. Preparations have their ingredients
listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric
equivalents.
Audience and level of use: armchair travelers, culture food lovers.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: lahmacun; beet green,
ricotta and hazelnut gozleme; turluturlu; kisir; baked fish with dill
butter and raki, roasted tomatoes and pine nuts; octopus stew with
wine, spices and caperberries.
The downside to this book: I wish there were more preps.
The upside to this book: great photographs.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.
 
 
 
16. THE COOKBOOK LIBRARY; four centuries of the cooks, writers, and
recipes that made the modern cookbook (University of California Press,
2012, 330 pages, ISBN 978-0-520-24400-9, $50 US hard covers) is by Ann
Willan, founder of La Varenne Cooking School, and a Beard Award winner
(Country Cooking of France). She's been assisted by her husband Mark
Cherniavsky and Kyri Claflin, both food researchers. It is number 35 in
the respected California Studies in Food and Culture. The book began as
notes on the 400-volume personal collection of Anne and Mark's
cookbooks, dating back to 1491 and centering on European and American
sources. They chronicle the life of cooks and writers who produced
these books, with 120 rich black and white illustrations of historical
title pages and other illustrations from these books. The range is from
"upstairs" to "downstairs", from the banquet halls of royalty to
communal tables of the poor. They explore the foods that these people
ate, and the religious and political effects on their meals. There are
also 40 recipes from the 15th to the 19th century books, updated for
today. Essentially, it is a history of the cookbook, tracing the
development of the recipe, explaining the forms of measurement, looking
at the medieval kitchen, exploring the role of women in the kitchen,
and the impact of ingredients from the New World (the Columbian
Exchange). Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois
measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. There are
end notes and a copious bibliography for further reading. As well,
there is a recipe index separate from the general index. A great read.
Audience and level of use: food researchers, cookbook collectors.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: cailles au laurier; soufflés
parisiens aux pommes de reinette; ypocras; zu mache ein krapffen teig.
Quality/Price Rating: 90.
 
 
 
17. JOEY GREEN'S KITCHEN MAGIC; 1,882 quick cooking tricks, cleaning
hints, and kitchen remedies using your favorite brand-name products
(Rodale, 2012; distr. Raincoast, 370 pages, ISBN 978-1-60971-703-5,
$18.99 US paper covers) is by someone who has quirky yet clever
household hints (www.wackyuses.com). Perfect reading for summer. Bake
moist brownies with cola, rescue burnt gravy with peanut butter, make
creamier mashed potatoes with canned whipped cream, flavour a roasted
chicken with beer, keep milk fresh longer with baking soda, soften
stale marshmallows with white bread, and 1875 more…Not for the faint of
heart. Many items can be processed or attended to by generic or other
brand names, so I'm not giving any of them a free plug. Or, maybe if I
did, you might avoid them, and the companies will come after me,
claiming loss of sales….LOL. As I said, a good read, especially in the
bathroom. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois
measurements in the handful of recipes, but there is no table of metric
equivalents. Quality/price rating: 80.
 

18. THE FISH THAT ATE THE WHALE; the life and times of America's banana
king (Farrar, Straus Giroux, 2012; distr. D & M Publishers, 270 pages,
ISBN 978-0-374-29927-9, $27 US hard covers) is by Rich Cohen, a free-
lance magazine writer and book author. It is a light hearted but well-
researched business and personal biography of Sam Zemurray, a peddler
of bananas who eventually created the United Fruit Company that we have
all grown to love and hate. It's also an exploration of the diplomatic
and military moves in Central America, to corner the banana market
("banana republics" and "Yankee go home"). This is good story telling,
so I won't reveal the "plot". He arrived in America in 1891 and died 69
years later in grandest house of New Orleans. There are copious end
notes and a good bibliography, but sadly, no illustrations beyond a
basic map, and NO INDEX, which makes the material difficult to
retrieve, and gives it points off in my rating. Quality/price rating:
81.
 

19. SWEET TOOTH; the bittersweet history of candy (St. Martin's Press,
2012; distr. Raincoast, 312 pages, ISBN 978-0-31-66810-5, $25.99 USW
hard covers) is by Kate Hopkins, a book author and food blogger in
Seattle. It comes with praise from Elizabeth Abbott, the author of the
sterling "Sugar; a bittersweet history". Hopkins takes the action one
processed step further: sugar candy. Hopkins desired candy as a child,
and believed that when she was an adult, she could have all she wanted.
But as she approached middle age, she realized that being an adult
means having the means to buy all the candy you want but no longer
wanting to. Hey, that was like ice cream and me!! I loved Baskin
Robbins but when I could afford it and when the franchise came to town,
I stayed away. Hopkins decided to at least visit stores and explore the
history of candy. Along the way, she came across the same factors that
Abbott did in her researches: the darker side of the commercial
ventures of sugar and candy. So the book is partly memoir (Hopkins'
addiction to candy) and partly a look at its positives and negatives in
its history. So there is a big dose of unhealthiness here in the
addiction, the cutthroat business competition, and the slave trade.
It's an enjoyable read and ride through history, with a smattering of
asides, a bibliography, and (thank heavens) an index. Quality/price
rating: 88.
 
 

Wednesday, August 15, 2012

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR AUGUST 18, 2012

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR AUGUST 18, 2012
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at
http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news
items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at
www.deantudor.com since 1994. My tastings are based on MVC (Modal
Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices
are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does
NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product
consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.
 

======>>>> ** BEST WINE OF THE RELEASE *UNDER* $20
 
Zonte's Footstep Lake Doctor Shiraz 2009 Langhorne Creek: delicious
soft texture, brimming with fruit and spices, BBQ or sipper, gold
medalist, 14.5% ABV, twist top. +72975, $16.95, QPR: 90.
 
P. Cambie Les Halos De Jupiter Cotes du Rhone 2010: despite only 15%
content, syrah tones are overwhelmingly present (black fruit, smoke).
15% ABV helps the domination. Excellent, ready now, first class all the
way. +276956, $17.95, QPR: 90.
 

======>>>> ** BEST WINE OF THE RELEASE *OVER* $20
 
Sbragia Monte Rosso Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Sonoma, +291054,
$54.95.
 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Lakeview Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2011 Roller Vyd VQA Lincoln
Lakeshore: a good Ontario savvy, fruity on the mid-palate with a longer
finish than most. 12% ABV. +226027, $16.95, QPR: 89.
2. Willy Gisselbrecht Tradition Pinot Gris 2010 Alsace: summery, gold
medalist, 13% ABV, more dry than sweet, longer finish. +641597, $16.95,
QPR: 89.
3. Domaine Chevallier Chablis 2009: well-rounded and developed, mature,
some encrusted flavours. +112227, $19.95, QPR: 89.
4. Domaine du Haut Bourg Muscadet Cotes de Grandlieu 2010 Sur Lie: 12%
ABV, LCBO Muscadet of the month. +289363, $15.95, QPR: 89.
5. Guy Saget Sancerre Blanc 2010: decent savvy at this price level for
a Sancerre. 12.5% ABV. +287078, $19.95, QPR: 89.
6. Tedeschi Capitel Tenda Soave Classico 2011: honeydews, tasty, fruity
for summer, 12.5%. +730903, $13.95, QPR: 89.
 
TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Columbia Crest H3 Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Horse Heaven Hills
Washington State: an always impressive, elegant cabby, with exceptional
cabernet sauvignon tones. 14.5% ABV. +210047, $19.95, QPR: 89.
2. Chakana Reserve Malbec 2010 Mendoza: gold medalist, MVC for Malbec,
denser than most, 14% ABV. +18671, $15.5, QPR: 89.
3. Bellingham Shiraz With a Dash of Viognier 2009 WO Coastal Region: NA
style and appeal, with a touch of Euro old world in the finish. 14%
ABV, good price. +278739, $14.95, QPR: 89.
4. Chateau Clement St-Jean 2009 Haut-Medoc: delicious, MVC Bordeaux
with merlot dominating, 13.5% ABV. Ready now. +199208, $17.95, QPR: 89.
5. Roux Pere & Fils Cote de Nuits-Villages 2010: lightish pinot noir,
but MVC for tones and fruit, 13% ABV, won't be in stock long at this
price. +279075, $18.95, QPR: 89.
6. Chateau Lorgeril Collection D'Altitude 2009 Cabardes: gold medalist,
14% ABV, delicious black fruit flavours, forest floor complexity,
cedary. +286781, $15.95, QPR: 89.
7. Famille Perrin Les Cornuds Vinsobres 2010: deep, dark and delicious,
syrah overrides the grenache, 14.5% ABV, classy bottle presentation
too. +566844, $17.95, QPR: 89.
8. Caldora Colle Dei Venti Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2009: dynamic
flavours, fulsome North American appeal, 13% ABV. +289629, $15.95, QPR:
89.
9. Di Majo Norante Contado Riserva Aglianico del Molise 2009: BBQ wine,
13.5% ABV, dense and heavy, smoke, rustic. +967208, $15.95, QPR: 89.
10. Renzo Masi Chianti Riserva 2008: good value for an aged simple no
region specified) chianti but done up at "Riserva" level. 13.5% ABV,
dynamic MVC tones. +969469, $15.95, QPR: 89.
11. Ribota 2009 Tierra da Castilla: North American broad sweetness,
oak, vanilla, soft and fruity, sip or food, 14.5% ABV. +280628, $15.95,
QPR: 90.
 
VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.
 
1. Quails' Gate Chardonnay 2010 VQA Okanagan, +377770, $21.95 retail
2. Mer Soleil Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2009 Santa Lucia Monterey,
+958975, $34.95.
3. Geyser Peak Block Collection Walking Tree Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Alexander Valley Sonoma, +161323, $28.95
4. Summers Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Knights Valley Sonoma, +279398,
$29.95.
5. Small Gully Mr. Black's Concoction Shiraz 2008 Barossa, +222059,
$24.95.
6. Gonnet Selection L'Olivia Gigondas 2010, +289306, $23.95
7. Terra da Vino La Casa in Collina Barbaresco 2008, +968974, $29.95.
 

Tuesday, August 14, 2012

APVSA Tasting at Chelsea: July 30

The Date and Time:  Monday, July 30, 2012  11AM to 5 PM
The Event: the monthly APVSA tasting (Association pour la promotion des
vins et spiritueux en Amerique du Nord).
The Venue: Delta Chelsea Inn
The Target Audience: wine agents.
The Availability/Catalogue: no wines are currently available in
Ontario. The group is here to get some agents to agree to rep the
principal. Some of the wines are available in Quebec and Alberta.
Most of the wines were French, and there is sales staff available to
comment on the prices and production. This road show also visits such
places as New York, Los Angeles, Seattle, Las Vegas, Calgary,
Vancouver, Miami, Washington DC, and Montreal. Occasionally, the show
will have wines from Italy, Uruguay, Spain and Australia. Sometimes
spirits and VDN are also available.
The Wines: The problem I had with the wines, and one that must be
acknowledged, is that (by and large) they were about the same as wines
that we already have here in Ontario. There really did not seem to be
any price advantages, either. But these 40 or so wines could be made
available through Vintages or Consignment. In the past, quite a few
have been picked up for sale in Ontario; these were mostly the good
value or unique wines. Here were my faves from today, regardless of FOB
cost which must be requested due to competitive pricing. I did not try
every wine.
 
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Champagne Philippe Fourier Cuvee Millesime
-Champagne Philippe Fourier Cuvee Prestige
-Chateau Rousset-Caillou Jean 2008 Bordeaux Superieur
-Chateau de Carles Haut-Carles 2007
-Chateau de Carles Haut-Carles 2009
-Bodegas Viyuela 2006 Ribera del Duero Tempranillo 10
 
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-Champagne Philippe Fourier Carte d'Or
-Champagne Breton & Fils Blanc de Blancs
-Champagne Breton & Fils Rose
-Champagne Breton & Fils Congy
-Chateau Rousset-Caillou Louis 2009 Entre-deux-Mers
-Alain & Philippe Salle Touraine 2011 Blanc
-Pierre Prieur et Fils Sancerre 2011 Rouge
-Pierre Prieur et Fils Sancerre 2011 Blanc
-Chateau La Calisse Coteau Varois en Provence 2011 Rose
-Chateau de Carles 2009
-Chateau Beard La Chapelle 2009 St. Emilion Grand Cru
-Chateau Coustolle 2007 Canon-Fronsac
-Domaine Sauvete Privilege 2008 Loire [organic]
-Chateau La Font du Broc 2009 Provence
 
*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Domaine Saint Michel Archange La Tour de Boussecos Vin du Pays D'Oc
2010
-Domaine Py Corbieres 2011
-Chateau Terre Blauque 2011
-Chateau Fonchereau Rose 2010 Bordeaux
-Domaine Sauvete Touraine Sauvignon 2009
-Domaine de Port Jean Muscadet Sur Lie 2011
-Marechal Prieur Sancerre 2009
-Domaine de Port Jean Coteaux d'Ancenis 2011 Loire Rose
-Domaine de Port Jean Muscadet Sur Lie 2011
-Chateau Coustolle 2007 Canon-Fronsac
-Domaine Gris des Bauries Cotes de Rhone Village 2009
-Domaine St Pierre de Mejans 2009 Luberon
-Dom. De la Brossette 2010 Touraine
-Bodegas Viyuela 2006 Ribera del Duero Tempranillo 3
-Domaine Claude Nouveau Burgundy Hautes Cotes de Beaune 2010
-Domaine Claude Nouveau Santenay 1er Cru 2010
-Domaine Claude Nouveau Santenay Les Charmes Dessus 2010
-Domaine Claude Nouveau Marranges 2010
 
The Food: lots of hot, meaty pizza.
The Contact Person: Pascal p.fernand@apvsa.ca
The Marketing Effectiveness/Execution of the Event (numerical grade):
84.

Saturday, August 11, 2012

August 3 Aveleda Vinho Verde lunch at Biago's

The Date and Time:  Friday, August 3, 2012   12:30 PM to 3 PM
The Event: Aveleda Vinho Verde tasting with Pedro Costa, winemaker and
educator at Aveleda. This is part of the Vinho verde August restaurant
promotion.
The Venue: Biago's Ristorante
The Target Audience: wine writers
The Availability/Catalogue: all three wines are in the LCBO
The Quote/Background: Pedro described the company and took us through
the mini-tasting before we had lunch. Aveleda is the biggest producer
of fresh Vinho verde, at less than 14 million bottles. Their estate of
180 hectares gives them 15% of their total grapes; the rest are bought.
The Wines:
 
Aveleda Vinho Verde 2011, +5322 LCBO, $8.95 plus 5 Bonus reward miles
in August (+38683 LCBO, 1500mL, $15.95 plus 10 Bonus reward miles in
August): 40% Loureiro grapes, balance trajadura and arinto – a field
blend from purchased grapes. Twist top, 10% ABV. 3.5 million bottles
sold around the world from the largest producer of Vinho verde. Spritz
from added CO2. Lemony finish, fresh fruit, off-dry complexity. Serve
chilled.
 
Quinta da Aveleda Vinho Verde 2011, +89995 LCBO, $9.95: made from their
own "sustainable" estates (180 Ha), with natural CO2 and a cork finish.
Higher alcohol at 11.5% ABV. More body, more lemons, more
stoniness/minerality. Definitely a food wine for first courses rather
than a party/patio sipper. From Loureiro grapes, with 20% Alvarinho for
added tropicality. Serve chilled.
 
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Aveleda Alvarinho [Vinho Verde] 2011, (+59048 Vintages, $15.95 for
2010 vintage; 2011 will be in shortly at about $13), 12% ABV
 
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-Quinta da Aveleda Vinho Verde 2011, +89995, $9.95 (with Loureiro and
Alvarinho), 11.5% ABV
 
*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Aveleda Vinho Verde 2011, +5322, $8.95, 10.5% ABV.
 
The Food: we began with an excellent seafood risotto (clams, mussels,
and shrimp), followed by veal scaloppini in a Vinho verde sauce and/or
grilled salmon with a Vinho verde sauce. Dessert was pannacotta. I
chewed on focaccia with the two Vinho verde blends, and had some
Alvarinho with the veal. Delicious food and wine matches.
The Contact Person: spuritt@sympatico.ca
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade):
90.
 
 

Thursday, August 9, 2012

Some interesting new wines tasted this month

SOME NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH --
 
From Stoney Ridge,
 
1. Stoney Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2010 VQA Niagara, coming to Vintages
(2009 on current shelves), $17.95: topping out at 13.4$ ABV, with the
twist top, this aromatic, fruity-zesty wine exhibits typical citrus
tones, long finish, and refreshing body.
 
2. Stoney Ridge Warren Classic Chardonnay 2010 VQA Twenty Mile Bench,
$18.95 at winery: the last vintage with the Jim Warren name (but made
by current winemaker Gord Robert). A Double Gold at the 2012 All
Canadian Wine Championships. Twist top, 13.8% ABV. One of my fave
chardonnays in the whole world, with plenty of smokey-oaky toasty tones
mellowed by underlying fruit.
 
3. Stoney Ridge Excellence Merlot 2010 VQA Four Mile Creek, $34.95 at
winery: another medal winner at the All Canadians 2012, but needing
plenty of time to mature. Fruit developing well, as is the velvet
texture. 13.4$ ABV. Bottle #3219 sampled, out of 3252 bottles produced.
 
From Kolonaki Group,
 
4. Domaine Sigalas Asirtiko-Athiri 2010 Santorini, Vintages +276535,
$16.95: a heavier-than-expected wine (14.2% ABV) dominated by citric
tones. 75% Asirtiko, with minerality showing at this point. Good for
summer, affordable, and something different to show off. Capable of
aging.
 
5. Mediterra Winery Thalia White 2011 Crete, LCBO +273490, $9.95: a
blend of half sauvignon blanc and half vilana, an indigenous variety.
Slightly herby and citric tones are tempered by tropicality from the
hot climate. An interesting wine for under $10, 12.5% ABV, refreshing
for first course or party sipping.
 
From Diamond Estates,
 
6. Lakeview Cellars Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2011 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore
Roller Vineyards, +226027 Vintages August 18, $16.95: terrific ripe
flavours of typical cool climate savvy. Gooseberries and citrus tones
dominate, and cold use another six months in bottle. Cork finish. 12%
ABV.
 
7. Lakeview Cellars Riesling Reserve 2011 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore Roller
Vineyards, +294074 Vintages September 15, $16.95: medium-bodied, just
perfect for the upcoming Thanksgiving after the release. Typical
orchard fruit notes with an underlying unctuous presence. Cork finish.
12.5% ABV.
 
8. Lakeview Cellars Cabernet Merlot Reserve VQA Niagara Peninsula,
+285791 Vintages, $18.95: the promo copy for this wine says "dark
cherry" and "cedar", "soft leather" and "spice". The label added "dark
roast coffee" and "sweet oak". Not sure what it wants to be: New World
or Old World. It is 42% merlot, 29% cabernet sauvignon, and 26%
cabernet franc. And with only 12.5% ABV, I'd guess the aim is for Old
World but displays a bit of richness, particularly with cassis notes.
Try first with cheeses and let me know…
 
From The Little Grape That Could (non-profit):
 
9. The Little Grape That Could Torrontes NV Argentina, +274738, $11.95
LCBO: a non-profit venture where all profits go to charity (go to
www.thelittlegrapethatcould.com for details, entering a code on the
label for a donation to a charity of your choice). The wine is
approachable in the Torrontes MVC peachy-floral vein, working well as
an off-dry sipper for patio or party. Refreshing citric entry and
finish, emphasizing the mid-palate. Screw cap, 12.5% ABV. "Torrontes"
is most certainly "Toronto's" wine.
 
10. The Little Grape That Could Cabernet Sauvignon NV Argentina,
+277020, $11.95 LCBO: the red wine twin to the Torrontes, also
approachable as a sipper for patio or party. Indeed, it is more like a
merlot with a softness and velvet finish. Expect cassis, plums, some
baked wood tones. Screw cap, 13% ABV.
 

From the Passport to Vinho Verde Program (August 2012) for restaurants
in the GTA:
 
11. Borges & Irmao Gatao Vinho Verde 2011, +204503 LCBO, $9.95: Very
fresh. Some spritz. An interesting sipper or first course wine, very
feminine at 9% ABV, vinous intensity. Twist top (rare in Portugal, home
of the cork). Serve very cool.
 
12. Alianca Vinho Verde 2011, +75663 LCBO, $8.95 plus 4 bonus reward
miles in August: Again, very fresh, some spritz, less than 10 months
old, under traditional cork closure. At 10.5% ABV, good value for a
sipper or first course wine. Crisp, fresh and light. Four grape
varieties used, including Loureiro. Chill well.
 
13. Sogrape Gazela Vinho Verde NV (but probably 2011), +141432, $8.95
LCBO: another fresh (with spritz) young white, off-dry floral
intensity, lighter at 9% ABV. Crisp, fresh and light. Four grape
varieties used, including Loureiro. Chill well for sipping. Twist top.
 
14. Aveleda Vinho Verde 2011, +5322 LCBO, $8.95 plus 5 Bonus reward
miles in August (+38683 LCBO, 1500mL, $15.95 plus 10 Bonus reward miles
in August): 40% Loureiro grapes, balance trajadura and arinto – a field
blend from purchased grapes. Twist top, 10% ABV. 3.5 million bottles
sold around the world from the largest producer of Vinho verde. Spritz
from added CO2. Lemony finish, fresh fruit, off-dry complexity. Serve
chilled.
 
15. Quinta da Aveleda Vinho Verde 2011, +89995 LCBO, $9.95: made from
their own "sustainable" estates (180 Ha), with natural CO2 and a cork
finish. Higher alcohol at 11.5% ABV. More body, more lemons, more
stoniness/minerality. Definitely a food wine for first courses rather
than a party/patio sipper. From Loureiro grapes, with 20% Alvarinho for
added tropicality. Serve chilled.
 

Wednesday, August 8, 2012

Rome is More marketing meeting (wine and food): July 19

The Date and Time: Thursday, July 19, 2012    Noon to 3 PM
The Event: Rome is More, a lunch/workshop featuring Rome and its
territory.
The Venue: Ontario Investment and Trade Centre, 250 Yonge Street
The Target Audience: wine/food media and travel agents.
The Quote/Background: A guest chef (Oscar Turchi) prepared a buffet
lunch with Roman products and wines. The lunch was followed by a
presentation focused on Rome wines and food products, and the best
local producers. This "road show" was previously in NYC, Miami and
Mexico City; it concentrated on food, fashion, wine and travel as it
relates to Rome and its environs. There was a dinner and a fashion show
at night at the Liberty Grand.
The Wines: we were served one white and one red. It was a hot day, and
most people (the room was about 80% ladies) were drinking Fontana di
Papa Colli Albani 2010 from the region. I went to get some for my
buffet, but it was all gone. I settled for the red Velletri 2007 – they
were both wines made in Lazio, and useful for this event.
The Food: tomato bruschetta, salad, breaded artichokes, veal
saltimbocca. It was a good assortment for a buffet; the veal was
excellent. There was a display of cheese and olive oil. Desserts were
cherry tarts, meringues, and cheeses.
The Downside: with interpretations, the presentations were twice as
long as necessary. There was little on fashions.
The Upside: a good introduction to the travel sections and wine routes
outside of Rome.
The Contact Person: tinelli@italchambers.ca
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade):
83.
 

Tuesday, August 7, 2012

Kumeu River (NZ) Chardonnays wine tasting: July 19

 The Date and Time: Thursday, July 19, 2012  10:30AM to Noon
The Event: a tasting of the Chardonnays of Kumeu River Wines of New
Zealand, with Michael Brajkovich, MW, responsible for the winemaking at
his family's winery.
The Venue: LCBO Scrivener Square
The Target Audience: wine writers
The Availability/Catalogue: all the latest release chardonnays are in
Vintages. Kumeu River is repped by Oenophilia Connexion in Ontario.
The Quote/Background: The winery has about 85 hectares, and makes 25K
total cases. 40% is exported, mostly to the UK, Canada and Australia.
Over half of the production is in chardonnay; they also produce pinot
grigio and pinot noir. Only the chardonnays have been available in
Ontario. All wines are made with wild yeasts, ML is used, and most
wines are lightly filtered. The style is Burgundian cool climate with
French clones and French oak.
The Wines: We tried seven wines, five available (one at SAQ) plus two
library wines. The current vintage available for sale for most wines is
2008 (a riper vintages, more time on lees, higher acidity).
 
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Kumeu River Chardonnay Mate's Vineyard 2008, +204032 Vintages, $44.95.
-Kumeu River Chardonnay Hunting Hill 2008, at SAQ, submitted to LCBO,
about $37 (1K cases produced).
-Kumeu River Chardonnay Coddington 2008, at SAQ (2009 coming to LCBO in
2013 under $40) (600 cases produced)
 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-Kumeu River Village Chardonnay 2008, +247171, $18.95 (8K cases
produced)
-Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay 2008, +640383, $34.95 (5K cases
produced)
-Kumeu River Chardonnay Hunting Hill 2007
-Kumeu River Chardonnay Mate's Vineyard 2007
 
The Food: bread and water
The Contact Person: marthaharrison@sympatico.ca
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade):
87.

Sunday, August 5, 2012

Wines of Victoria: July 18 tasting notes

 The Date and Time: Wednesday, July 18, 2012, 1 PM to 4 PM
The Event: Wines of Victoria, a trade and media function.
The Venue: Rosewater Room,  Toronto Street
The Target Audience: media and trade, with a consumer show the next
night.
The Availability/Catalogue: some of the wines would be available
through Vintages' special Victorian release in July. Others were by
consignment.
The Quote/Background: The tasting and seminar showcased a cool-climate
wine producing state of Australia. It was moderated by Mark Davidson
(Global Educator for Wine Australia) and Jamie Drummond (Good Food
Revolution) with a selection of Victorian winemakers. There were 17
wines in the seminar, and many more in the later walkaround tasting.
About 75 tasters were at the seminar.
The Wines: I did not taste every wine.
 
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Caledonia Australis Chardonnay Reserve 2008 Gippsland, +284935, $39.95
Le Sommelier
-Kooyong Massale Pinot Noir 2011 Mornington Peninsula, +281055, $39.95
Lifford
-Ladies Who Shoot Their Lunch Shiraz 2009 Stratbogie Ranges, $34.95,
+243592 Von Terra
 
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-Kooyong Clonale Chardonnay 2011 Mornington Peninsula, $35 Lifford
-Giant Steps Gladysdale Vineyard Pinot Noir 2008 Yarra Valley, $39.95,
+219725 Terra Firma
-Tahbilk Shiraz 2008 Nagambie Lakes, $19.5, +214742 Grape Expectations
-Pyrenees Ridge Shiraz 2009 Pyrenees, $20.95, +661918 Lamprecht
-Camelback Shiraz 2008 Sunbury, $26.95, +665125 Amethyst
-Camelback Cabernet Merlot 2009
-Chateau Mildura Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, 21.95 Lamprecht
-Chateau Mildura Carmenere 2010, $15.95 Lamprecht
-Chateau Mildura Petit Verdot 2008, $15.95 Lamprecht
-Pyrenees Ridge Granite Hills Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Pyrenees, $28.75,
Lamprecht
-Stonier Chardonnay 2010 Mornington Peninsula
-Tyrrell's Rufus Stone Shiraz 2010 Heathcote
-Rees Miller Shiraz 2008 Upper Goulburn
-De Bortoli Noble One Botrytis Semillon 2008, $29.95 half-bottles
 
*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Taltarni T Series Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2011 Pyrenees, +19471,
$17.95 Freehouse
-Tahbilk Marsanne 2007 Nagambie Lakes, $21.95, +276980 Grape
Expectations
-Innocent Bystander Chardonnay 2010 Yarra Valley, $23.95, +280206 Terra
Firma
-De Bortoli Windy Peak Pinot Noir 2010 Yarra Valley, $17.95, +48587
Dionysus
-Yabby Lake Vineyard Pinot Noir 2007 Mornington Peninsula, $49.95,
+262402
-Blackjack Block 6 Shiraz 2009 Bendigo, $35 Churchill Cellars
-Tar & Roses Shiraz 2010 Heathcote, $21.95, +282731 Eurovintage
-Tar & Roses Tempranillo 2011, +280198 $24.95
-Camelback Major's Line 2008
-Camelback TGM (Tempranillo, Grenache, Mourvedre) Heathcote 2010,
+285577, $22.95.
-Pyrenees Ridge Red Shiraz 2010, $17.75, Lamprecht
-Camelback Chardonnay 2010 Sunbury
-Tahbilk Viognier 2010
-Greenstone Shiraz 2010 Heathcote
-Brokenwood Shiraz 2009
-Stone Dwellers Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
 
The Food: shrimp, roast beef sliders, quiche, parcels.
The Downside: it was blazing hot outside, enough to turn you off heavy
red Oz wines.
The Upside: a chance to catch up with Victorian wines.
The Contact Person: Erika.neudorf@wineaustralia.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade):
90.