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Friday, August 27, 2021

Some recent spirits I have tasted --


1.Dun Bheagan Single Malt Islay +576397 $54.90 750mL.: extremely intense, bottled straight from the cask. Small batch.  Eight years old. Some herbal complexity with strong floral notes makes this a real treat. Smokey peaty all the way...could be challenging for some. 43% ABV. Good value. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

2..Bas-Armagnac de Montal Les Hauts de Montrouge X.O. 700 mL. +21564 Vintages October 2021 $112: comes in a wooden gift box (it's that time of year again). From the producers of the finest Armagnac in the region. Armagnac has only 10% of the production of Cognac; it has a single distillation only. Uses all four grape varieties allowed. Comprised of about 12 years-old distillates, deep nose of roasted nuts, full fruity flavours with a soft peachy off-dry finish. Some mocha is evident. 40% ABV. A steal at this price. Quality/Price rating is 93 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

3.Bas-Armagnac de Montal Les Hauts de Montrouge 2002  700 mL. +11426 Vintages October 23 2021 $99.95: comes in a red gift box for the Christmas holidays. There are about 181 producers, and many make single vintage bottlings (unlike in Cognac). Hence, there are many bottles of older Armagnac brandies (10, 15, 20, 30 year olds) that sell everywhere in the world -- but in small lots. Montal's 2002 was aged a minimum of 19.5 years in oak. Armagnac sells well in Quebec – they recognize a bargain. Extremely aromatic with overtones of caramel, vanilla, dried fruits, and oak character. 40% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

4.Antica Valle Francescana Limoncino 500 mL. +17161 October 23, 2021, $45. 30% ABV, with a 2% infusion of lemon peels: decanter comes with two glasses and a gift box. Exceedingly fresh flavours with that citrus tang of sharpness from the essential oils. Largely hand-peeled in Umbria. Terrific as an ice cream topping (which is how I had my 40 mL sample). Sales of lemoncello or limoncino in total make it the number two liqueur in Italy, after Campari. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.


Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Wednesday, August 18, 2021

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for AUGUST 21, 2021

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES:  under/over $20 for AUGUST 21, 2021
 
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at http://www.deantudor.com since 1994.
 
These notes for good wines available through  LCBO Vintages (on a bi-weekly basis)  can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca  or at  http://www.deantudor.com No winery can buy their way into – or out of – this publication.
 
Scores are a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, e.g. a Southern Rhone would taste like a Southern Rhone) and QPR (Quality/Price Ratio value in the marketplace above or below its price).
 
Currently, the wine media have no access to the tasting samples usually provided to us in the LCBO lab on a fortnightly basis. This will go on or some time. HOWEVER,  the wine media will still have access to the advance spreadsheet of the wines to be released. So I know what is to be released and when. SOME (but not many) of these 100 or so biweekly released wines I have recently tasted since January 2020 or so, and I can comfortably recommend them based on this prior sampling.
 
Some New Wines Tasted Over the Past Fortnight ---
 
1.Domaine Martin Cotes du Rhone 2018, +18642 Vintages, $17.95: 80% grenache and 20% syrah. Typical density of southern Rhone with a preponderance of grenache tones followed by syrah flavours: spices, anise, some burnt caramel, ripe, but a long penetrating finish, some tannic tightness in the structure. Mouthfilling. Ripe, fresh and fruity with black berry and cherry plumminess. Not filtered. 13.5% ABV, 2g/L residual sugar. A top-scoring wine at the Decanter World Wine Awards. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
2.Chateau Pesquie Terrasses AOC Ventoux Rouge 2019 +577196 $21.95: I first ran into wines from Ventoux when I was at a tasting in Edinburgh – they were being promoted as a lighter-styled Cotes du Rhone wine. I have not followed them since that time but obviously climate change has impacted the wine: Ventoux are heavier now. Pesquie has 60% grenache and 40% syrah, certified organic and vegan, with biodynamic practices. The cool climate of Mont Ventoux appears to be lessened, which now puts the wines into competition with regular southern Rhone wines. Expect an aromatic nose of spices and garrigue and lots of red berries mainly from the grenache. Fresh all the way, not aged at all, with a long, long floral bone-dry finish. 14% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
3.Michel Gassier Nostre Pais AOC Costieres de Nimes Rouge 2018 +295410 $23.95: complete with an assortment of local red grape varieties -- 50% grenache, 20% syrah, 20% mourvedre, and 5% both carignan and cinsault. Their version of the popular GSM wines. About 43% of the wine from the region is red, and 41% of the region's total wines are exported. Gassier has certified organic farming. 12 month barrel aging in used French oak for half the wine, the other other half in concrete tanks. It's a dark wine, emphasizing the black fruits (cherry, blackberries, plums) with mocha tones and anise garrigue. Tannins will be resolved with another year of aging. Good value. 3g/L residual sugar, 15% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
I can also recommend one red, one rose, one white wine, and one fizz from the LCBO's Limited Time Offers selections...some are good values (see below)...on sale  through Sunday September 12, 2021...
 
[red] Gran Feudo Reserva DO Navarra Spain +479014, on sale to September 12 , now $16.95, down from $18.95 [save $2]
[white] Susana Balbo Crios Torrontes Argentina Dominio del Plata +1834, on sale to September 12, now $12.95, down from $14.95 [save $2}
[rose]  Muga Rose DOCa Rioja Spain +603795, on sale to September 12, now $13.95, down from $15.95. Buy a case [save $24].
[fizz] Louis Bouillot Perle D'Aurore Brut Rose Cremant de Bourgogne Traditional Method Burgundy +48793, on sale to September 12, now $20.95, down from $22.95 [save $2]
 
Aug 21 wines Under $20
=========
W+669531    MICHEL GASSIER EMBRUNS DE VIOGNIER    IGP Pays d'Oc    2020    $18.95   
MVC/QPR:  89.
W+958736    MUGA BARREL FERMENTED WHITE    DOCa Rioja    2020    $17.95     MVC/QPR: 89.
W+20599    FEATHERSTONE PINOT GRIGIO    VQA Niagara Peninsula    2020    $17.95   
MVC/QPR: 89.
W+19635    ALBINO ARMANI CORVARA PINOT GRIGIO    DOC Valdadige    2020    $17.95   
MVC/QPR:  89.
R+999946    REMO FARINA RIPASSO VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO SUPERIORE    DOC    2019   
$18.95  MVC/QPR:  89.
 
Aug 21 wines Over $20
=========
R+161398    LANDER-JENKINS CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Sustainable, California    2019   
$21.95  MVC/QPR: 90.
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Friday, August 13, 2021

* THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...

...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text while keeping the focus tight. Some magazines will reissue popular or classic recipes in an "easy" format. Here are some recent "re-editions"...
 
 
10.LAZY DAY BRUNCHES; relaxed recipes for the morning (Ryland Peters & Small, 2021, 144 pages, $20 hardbound) is a publisher's book with 65 preps by 11 food writers, principally Carol Hilker (23 recipes) and Kathy Kordalis (15 recipes). It's arranged by course, from fruit and grains through pancakes & waffles, eggs, salads, sides, pastries, preserves and drinks. A handy compilation. Quality/Price Rating: 86
 
 
11.MORTAR & PESTLE; 65 delicious recipes for sauces, rubs and marinades (Ryland Peters & Small, 2021, 144 pages, $20 hardbound) is a publisher's book with 65 preps by 22 food writers. Valerie Aikman-Smith leads off with 13 different recipes. It's arranged by course, and includes sauces and condiments, snacks and small bites, poultry and game, meat, seafood, and veggies. Another handy compilation. Quality/Price Rating: 86
 
 
12.THE SPICY PLANT-BASED COOKBOOK (Adams Media, 2021, 256 pages, $22.99 paperbound) is a project of Simon and Schuster – no direct author seems to be indicated.  This should not, of course, detract from the book which is a very valuable contribution to vegan food writing. Its subtitle says all:  "more than 200 fiery snacks, dips, and main dishes for the plant-based lifestyle". The importance is amplified by the types of dishes such as flaming hot guacamole, vegan "cheese" fries, spicy pad thai, and others. If there is one thing that will bring a guy over from an animal-based diet to a vegan – it's going to be SPICY FOOD    . There are hot sauces galore here (basic Chinese Hot and Sour soup, kimchi cabbage, lime-soaked poblanos, Mexican hot chocolate. Arrangement is by meal course, after a primer on sauces, spreads, salsa, and spices. First up is breakfast – there's enough heat for the full day here! Followed by appetizers and snacks, salad, soups, stews, chilies, mains, sides, and desserts. At the very end there is a useful US/Metric conversion chart. Preparations have their ingredients only listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is a table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating:  92
 
 
13.SUMMER DRINKS; over 100 refreshing recipes to enjoy in the sunshine (Ryland Peters & Small, 2021, 144 pages, $20 hardbound) is an other publisher's project for Ryland Peters & Small. Here 15 UK chefs and food writers give us all the preps (with proper attribution found at the back of the book). The most prolific are Ben Reed (24, a quarter of the total) and Laura Gladwin (20). Julia Charles was the editorial director on this one, and she contributes 13 preps. Arrangement is by style: aperitifs, cocktails, spritzes, coolers, slushies, floats, punches, pitchers, mocktails and juices. More than enough preps for three months of summer!  Quality/price rating:  89
 
14.SUMAC; recipes and stories from Syria (Interlink Books, 2019, 2021, 248 pages, $45 hardbound) is by Anas Atassi, who emphasizes his family's food traditions and culture. He's  a Syrian chef now living in the Netherlands (this book was originally published in Dutch in 2019). Here are 80 classic and contemporary recipes strewn about various chapters such as breakfast, mezze (his mother's annual soirees), street food, grains, veggies, meats-poultry-fish (midsummer BBQs) , and desserts (the Ramadan table). Each prep has a story with some illustrations, plus a Syrian name for the dish. Excellent photography and layout, more about food than about travel.  Preps are perfectly adaptable for the North American kitchen: Sumac is an essential ingredient in Syrian cooking; it is used everywhere. This is a nifty exploration of a series of influences from the Ottomans, the Persians, and the French. Take a look at lamb koftas in tahini sauce or shorbat ameh (lamb shanks) or musakham wraps. The book could have been improved, though, if it also used more metric in the recipes, or at least had a metric conversion chart. Quality/price rating: 90
 
15.THE SCANDI KITCHEN MIDSOMMAR (Ryland Peters & Small, 2018, 2021, 176 pages,  $29.99 hard covers) is by Bronte Aurell, Danish restaurateur, who runs ScandiKitchen Cafe and shop in central London along with her Swedish husband. She has also been published widely. It was originally published in 2018 and this is the 2021 reissue update Here she has a summer introduction to Scandinavian food through 65 dishes for all occasions. The contents begin with a summer pantry/larder, and move on to breakfast, open sandwiches, smorgasbord with soups and salads and light dishes, followed by dinner and desserts. There is even a chapter on fika (get-together with coffee with cakes). Try the breakfast open sandwich, shrimp and asparagus open sandwich or traditional Danish apple trifle as individual servings. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
16.ZERO WASTE; 60 recipes for a waste-free kitchen (White Star Publishers, 2020, 2021, 160 pages, $22.95 hardbound) is by Cinzia Trenchi, who also did the photography. It was originally published in Italian, and this is the 2021 English translation. She emphasizes that everything should be organic and preservative-free. She's got original ideas and preps for making dishes made with food scraps that no only taste good by also look great. It is all arranged by type of dish: one section deals with vegetable-based dishes, another with protein-based recipes, and a third with fruit-based recipes. There is also a small section at the end concerning leftovers, such as bread and rice, etc.  Lovely dramatic illustrations showing ease, times, and preparations.  The book could have been improved if it also used more metric in the recipes, or at least had a metric conversion chart. Quality/price rating:  90.
 
 
17.BATCH COOKING; save time, save money (White Star Publishers, 2018, 2021, 160 pages, $22.95 hardbound) is by  is by Cinzia Trenchi, who also did the photography. It was originally published in Italian in 2018, and this is the 2021 English translation. She emphasizes that everything should be organic and preservative-free. She's got original ideas and preps for making larger dishes made with the bounty of the season. Batch cooking is a meal planning system that involves preparing a week's worth of meals in just a few hours.. These are stored in the fridge, freezer or pantry, and can be for both food that is eaten at home or out. Organization and a great selection of glass/plastic containers are needed. Sous vide and vacuum bags are also useful, but they tend to not be reusable. So here are 68 recipes with her own photos, for making easy dishes to organize your meals with, from breakfast onward. The week can be planned, and indeed the book is divided into 4 weeks. There is plenty of choice, and very few preps need to be repeated.  Ir's a great book for the harried homemaker: do it all on Sunday and just eat out of hand for the rest of the week. Each week is divided into breakfast, "individual portions", and snacks. Voila! Typical are roast little tuna with artichokes and fresh orange salad, smoked salmon parcels stuffed with mixed berries, pumpkin and barley broth,  and caper bread with vegetable and mayo. Lovely dramatic illustrations showing ease, times, and preparations.  The book could have been improved if it also used more metric in the recipes, or at least had a metric conversion chart. Quality/price rating:  90.
----------------------------------------------------
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Tuesday, August 10, 2021

* FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH! -- The Kitchen Without Borders (Worman Publishing)

* FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH! *
 
 
2.THE KITCHEN WITHOUT BORDERS; recipes and stories from refugee and immigrant chefs (Workman Publishing, 2020, 212 pages, $33.95 hardbound) is from the New York City catering collective EAT OFFBEAT, an outfit that features off-the-beaten-path cuisines and thereby creates jobs for refugees and immigrants. And 2% of the cover price of each book sold globally will benefit the International Rescue Committee. Here are 70 authentic preps for food from countries torn by strife: Syria, Iran, Eritrea, Venezuela, and others. Each recipe has a chef profile and photographic portrait of a displaced person seeking a link between food and home. Thirteen chefs are thus highlighted. Arrangement is by course, from appetizer through dips, salads, soups, grains, veggies, meat, desserts and drinks. Typical home versions of classic local food include momos from Nepal, beef kibbeh from Syria, potato kibbeh from Iraq, fatayer hand pies from Iraq, cachapas from Venezuela, kuku sabzi from Iran, red pepper soup from Central African Republic, Algerian couscous, veggie couscous from Sri Lanka, jollof rice from Nigeria, et al. Stories are attached to each prep as well as chef backgrounds.  The book could have been improved if it also used metric in the recipes (this is a global resource), but at least it had metric conversion charts. Quality/price rating: 92.
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Wednesday, August 4, 2021

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for AUGUST 7, 2021

 
WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES:  under/over $20 for AUGUST 7, 2021
 
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at http://www.deantudor.com since 1994.
 
These notes for good wines available through  LCBO Vintages (on a bi-weekly basis)  can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca  or at  http://www.deantudor.com No winery can buy their way into – or out of – this publication.
 
Scores are a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, e.g. a Southern Rhone would taste like a Southern Rhone) and QPR (Quality/Price Ratio value in the marketplace above or below its price).
 
Currently, the wine media have no access to the tasting samples usually provided to us in the LCBO lab on a fortnightly basis. This will go on or some time. HOWEVER,  the wine media will still have access to the advance spreadsheet of the wines to be released. So I know what is to be released and when. SOME (but not many) of these 100 or so biweekly released wines I have recently tasted since January 2020 or so, and I can comfortably recommend them based on this prior sampling.
 
Some New Wines Tasted Over the Past Fortnight ---
 
1.Lacheteau Parlez-Vous Sauvignon Blanc 2019 IGP Val de Loire +647099 LCBO General List $11.75: a good value savvy, with nods to tropical fruit and grass, but very easy going and very tasty, almost a savvy for beginners. A good way to get into the grape. 12.5% ABV, 4g/L residual sugar. Pairs very well with goat cheese e.g. paillot de chevre. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
2.Chateau de la Grange Muscadet Cotes de Grand Lieu Vieilles Vignes 2018 +637868 Vintages $13.95: minerally driven from 40 year old vines, and reflecting melon, orchard fruit, and ending with a long citrus clean finish. 11.7% ABV, 2gL residual sugar. Do not serve too chilled. Good with a variety of seafood and poultry. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
3.Thierry Delaunay La Salamandre Sauvignon Blanc 2020 Touraine +391847 Vintages $16.95:
Touraine is my fave go to region for sauvignon blanc, principally because it is so value-driven. You get a lot of bang for your buck: freshness, ripe peaches and melons, some cut grass (but not too zesty as in Kiwi land). Good finishing citrus acidity. This was the freshest wine of the tasting pack of six. 12% ABV, 4g/L residual sugar. Great with a cheese platter and/or sushi. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
4.Barton & Guestier Les Petites Parcelles Chenin Blanc 2019 Vouvray +232264 Vintages $16.95: tons of fruit aromas, both orchard and tropical. Good aperitif social wine, could be best with Asiatic spicy food, or a creamy cheese platter. It was useful with the pork rillette and the grand crème cheese. 12% ABV, 23g/L residual sugar. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
5.Jean-Max Roger Cuvee Genese 2019 Sancerre +189126 Vintages $33.95: an organic wine with cold fermentation, natural yeasts, some aging on heavy lees. Ripe fruit flavours and some zest from the sauvignon blanc, but not as nervy as the Antipodean style. Freshness has been retained by its minerality. 12.5% ABV, 2g/L residual sugar. Can be aged for a few years to show more complexity. Goes very well with all kinds of seafoods. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
6.Patrice Moreux Corty Artisan La Loge Aux Moines 2017 Pouilly-Fume +18493 Vintages $48: some organic principles are followed, but mainly for fertilizing and limited intervention and then, only when necessary (the producer also follows the lunar cycle during the vinification process). Taste: a juicy palate throughout with citrus tones evidenced on the mid-palate before resolving to more fruitiness and finishing with a minerality that makes it all food-worthy. It's very complementary to richly grilled fish, saucy scallops, creamy poultry, and fresh cheese platters. 13.5% ABV, 2g/L residual sugar. Can be aged another 5 years or so. Don't serve too cold. Quality/Price rating is 93 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
I also recommend one red, one rose and one white wine from the LCBO's Limited Time Offers selections...some are good values (see below)...now on sale  through Sunday August 15 ...
 
[red]  BERONIA RESERVA Rioja +50203 on sale to August 15, now $19.95, down from $21.95.
[white] Boschendal 1685 Chardonnay WO Western Cape South Africa  +367698  on sale to August 15, now $14.95, down from $16.95. Buy a case.
[rose] GERARD BERTRAND GRIS BLANC ROSE +14673 on sale to August 15, now $13.75, down from $15.75. Buy a  case.
[fizz] LILY SPARKLING ROSÉ VQA +536565 on sale to August 15, now $16.95, down from $17.95.
 
Under $20
=========
W+341586    FEATHERSTONE FOUR FEATHERS    VQA Niagara Peninsula    2020    $14.95       
MVC/QPR: 90.
W+439554    AVONDALE JONTY'S DUCKS PEKIN WHITE    WO Paarl    2018    $16.95
MVC/QPR: 89.
Rose+950576    MAS DES BRESSADES CUVÉE TRADITION ROSÉ    AP Costières de Nîmes    2020    $17.95    MVC/QPR: 89.
R+209874    COLUMBIA CREST H3 MERLOT    Horse Heaven Hills, Columbia Valley    2018    $19.95    MVC/QPR: 89.
R+18653    CHÂTEAU LE GARDERA    AC Bordeaux Supérieur 2017 $15.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
 
Over $20
=========
W+70946    SCHLOSS SCHÖNBORN HATTENHEIMER PFAFFENBERG RIESLING KABINETT    Prädikatswein    2018    $24.95     MVC/QPR: 89.
W+628065    SOUTHBROOK VIDAL SKIN FERMENTED WHITE ORANGE WINE    Estate grown, VQA Ontario    2019    $29.95    MVC/QPR: 90.
W+196667    JEAN-MAX ROGER CUVÉE MARNES ET CAILLOTTES SANCERRE    AC    2019    $32.95    MVC/QPR: 89.
Rose+490813    JEAN-MAX ROGER LA GRANGE DÎMIÈRE SANCERRE ROSÉ    AC    2020    $27.95    MVC/QPR: 89.
R+317933    PELEE ISLAND VINEDRESSERS MERITAGE    VQA South Islands    2016    $24.95 MVC/QPR: 89.
R+24430    CHÂTEAU CANTENAC AC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru 2016 $34.95  MVC/QPR:  89.
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Tuesday, August 3, 2021

* DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH -- Wine Time by Barbara Scott-Goodman

* DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH! *
 
 
1.WINE TIME; 70+ recipes for simple bites that pair perfectly with wine (Chronicle Books, 2021, 192 pages, ISBN 978-1-4521-8186-8 $32.95 hardbound) is by Barbara Scott-Goodman, a food book author. The book's title is a bit of a misnomer since wine is not discussed. As she says, "Almost all food goes well with wine...what matters most is that you enjoy the wine you buy and drink." With that in mind, she goes ahead and makes recommendations for wine types based on grape varieties. With black bean, mushroom and cheese quesadillas, she suggests Zinfandel. With roasted cauliflower, try a Vernaccia. With zucchini fritters, perhaps a Sauvignon Blanc. She does have a whole section on wine cocktails, including: Champagne pom fizz, Kir Royale, Autumn Bellini, Prosecco and ginger spritz, and a half dozen other fizzy drinks (including a white wine, orange and mint sangria). Arrangement is by food categories: snacks and bites (such as orange-scented olives & feta cheese), dips and spreads (such as tuna tapenade), cheese and cheese boards, veggies, bruschetta and toasts (such as chicken livers with red onion sauce), seafood (crudo, ceviche), meat (charcuterie, sliders, deviled ham), sauces and condiments. The book could have been improved if it had also used more metric in the recipes, or at least had a metric conversion chart. Quality/price rating: 90
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com