SOME NEW WINES TASTED THIS MONTH –

-ENRICO SERAFINO BARBARESCO DOCG 2010, +341156, $20.85 LCBO: a good example of competition, with a lower priced Barbaresco produced by Campari. It's been aged for three years already, and exhibits spices in a rich but austere format – best with food (anything Italian, roasts, cheeses). It is a heavy nebbiolo wine, and could still use some aging. The lower price may mean that you need to so some work yourself, such as letting it cellar for a few more years. Well worth the effort for this old style wine. 14% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

-TENUTE DI TOSCANA CARIONE BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2008 DOCG, +266668, $30.05 LCBO: wow, this is a general listed wine that has already seen five years plus of aging. It replaces the 2006 vintage, which had six years on it when first released at the LCBO. The rich texture lends to complexity in a new style Brunello, more acceptable to the North American market: ripe and fruity but with that Sangiovese depth of cherry fruit. 14%. Hard to find any kind of Brunello at this price point. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

-SENSI VIGNE VINI BORGO BELLO BOLGHERI 2010 DOC TUSCANY, +341123, $18.80 LCBO: Bolgheri wines are very popular now that they show very well against supertuscan wines. They have DOC legally allowable cabernet sauvignon and merlot in the blend, along with sangiovese – the mix we find in expensive supertuscans costing upwards of $100 or more. Bolgheris might not do it better than supertuscans, but they approach them as "baby" supertuscans. This one shows fruit and spice, great North American appeal in that merlot is recognizable, modest tannins, balanced on the mid-palate, okay by itself or with food. Bolgheri is my fave supertuscan styled wine, and this one is no exception, especially for its low price under $20. Nicely aged for three years, 14% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

-Chateau des Charmes Rose Cuvee d'Andree 2013 VQA NOTL, $14.95

Vintages +333260: this fresh and vibrant rose continues to please year

over year. Here it is 100% pinot noir, dry "old style", loaded with Ontario

cranberry and red fruit strawberry tones, coming in at 13% ABV. Stainless steel

of course, and twist top. Refreshing, just bottled. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

-Chateau des Charmes Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 VQA NOTL, $14.95 +370320: from a nice ripe year, loaded with choco-berry and mocha tones. 10 months in French oak, but still done in a Euro style as a food wine. This may be their first vintage of an entire cab sauvignon; previous bottlings were either Cab-Merlot or St. David's Bench vineyards at almost twice the price. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

From Union Wine VQA Niagara –

 

1.Union White 2012 VQA Niagara, +197145 LCBO, $13.95: a virtual Ontario winery targeting the under-35 demo. It's strength seems to be in blended wines, hence "union".  This one definitely says "summer", as a blend of riesling, unoaked chardonnay, gewurztraminer, sauvignon blanc, and viognier all contribute to the North American-styled blend. 12.5% ABV, twist top, off-dry in what we used to call a (1), and intensely aromatic. Grape ratios may change from year to year, but these are the usual suspects. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

2.Union Gold 2011 VQA Niagara, +351049 LCBO, $14.95: The partnership of Allan Jackson (formerly of Jackson-Triggs) and Andrew von Teichman (of Von Terra wine agency) continues: twist top, 13% ABV, and a serious food wine here. Both the pinot gris (note the use of "gris" which is increasingly being applied to a higher style of pinot grigio) and the chardonnay have been barrel aged, while the aromatic sauvignon blanc and gewurztraminer are made in the tank. The result is a golden colour that is dry and crisp for food, with the edge of oak for complexity. The amount of gewurztraminer is very small, and I would like to taste the wine without its addition, just so I can check on its contribution. Maybe it adds character. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

3.Union Red 2010 VQA Niagara, +197152 LCBO, $13.95: from the noble vintage of 2010, blended from merlot, cabernet (no indication if this is cab franc or cab sauv, so presumably it is both), gamay noir, and pinot noir. 13.5% ABV, twist top. A full-bodied Bordeaux-styled wine, suitable for later courses at the table. Shows some herbs (from the franc?) and black fruit. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

4.Union Noir 2012 VQA Niagara, +277632 LCBO, $15.95: 13.5% ABV, twist top, and packed with upfront red fruit in a light style, better as a patio wine in summer or as a first course wine. Blend of pinot noir and gamay noir, very dry. Best served slightly chilled. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

From Stratus,

 

1.Wildass Riesling 2012 VQA Niagara Peninsula, +129700 Vintages, $16.95: a compelling, fresh riesling that is basically a food wine with its lemony-apple citric finish. Best with food. Unoaked, of course. Twist top. 12% ABV. If you keep it a few years, it might get better as an aged riesling would. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

2.Wildass Red 2011 VQA Niagara Peninsula, +86363 Vintages, $19.95: a

delightful wine but not as strong as previous years, comprising syrah

(11%), merlot (28%), cabernet Franc (31%), cabernet sauvignon (18%),

tannat (5%), Tempranillo (3%), sangiovese (1%), and petit verdot (3%). Gamay is also listed on the back label, but it isn't here. The eight red grapes (a real Euro blend) were 100% barrel aged in 11% new oak for 246 days. An exceptionally ripe wine, medium body emphasizing black fruit, coming in at 14.8% ABV. Twist top. Originally introduced for restaurants but now extremely popular as an Ontario red blend. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

3.Wildass White 2009 VQA Niagara Peninsula, +85100 Vintages, $19.95: a blend of some

81% sauvignon blanc, 7% semillon, 6% riesling and 6% gewurztraminer. All barrel aged in second fill French oak for 593 days. Tropical fruitiness is the order of the day,

with the impact of semillon, and gewurztraminer. In addition to the mouth-filling savvy, there are fresh peaches and other orchard fruit (apples, apricots) on display, and a touch of smoothness from the wood. Finishes with good acidity for food too. Twist top. 14% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Wine Writers' Circle of Canada Rose tasting: one writer's account...

The Date and Time: Friday, March 28, 2014

The Event: a tasting of new and older rose wines available in Ontario.

The Venue: LCBO Summerhill Scrivener Square Private Tasting Room

The Target Audience: Wine Writers' Circle of Canada members, 13 in attendance at self-pour tables.

The Availability/Catalogue: WWCC had assembled some 70 rose wines in play in the Ontario marketplace. About a quarter were sparkling, the balance were Ontario or imported still wines, and others were sweet.

The Quote/Background: WWCC tries to highlight category wines three times a year (usually rose, sparkling, and fortified). This tasting was assembled just ahead of Easter, Mother's Day, graduation days, and summer.

The Wines: I tasted most of the wines, and the notes below reflect only my opinions. I do not speak for the 13 WWCC members that attended.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Jackson-Triggs Entourage Grand Reserve Sparkling 2010 Methode Classique 234161 $22.95 Constellation [my fave of the tasting, based on QPR=94]

-Champagne Taittinger    Prestige Rose    NV    83.95    993113    Champagne     Family Wine Merchants

-Cono Sur    Sparkling Rose    NV    13.95    365205    Bio Bio Valley Authentic Wine & Spirits Merchants

-Château des Charmes    Rosé sparkling Méthode Traditionelle    2011    $28.95 78055    Niagara-on-the-Lake   

-Henry of Pelham    Cuvee Catharine Rose Brut    NV    29.95    217505    Niagara

-Graham Beck Brut Rosé Methode Cap Classique    NV    19.95    175588    Western Cape -Cuvage s.r.l.    Viticolotori Acquesi Brachetto d'Acqui D.O.C.G. Sparkling Rose    NV    $13.95    375667    Piedmont    Select Wines & Spirits

-Union Wines    Union Rose    2013    $13.95    275685    Niagara Peninsula    Von Terra -Malivoire     Moira Rose    2013    $21.95         Beamsville Bench   

-GreenLane Estate Winery    Rosé    2012    $15.95 Lincoln Lakeshore   

-Henry of Pelham    Sibling Rivalry Pink    2013    13.95    171033    Niagara Peninsula

-Henry of Pelham    Rose    2013    12.95    613471    Niagara Peninsula    Henry of Pelham,

-SA Ackerman     Remy Pannier Rose d'Anjou    2012    12.95    12641    Loire    Eurovintage -ANGELS GATE WINERY    ARCHANGEL PINOT NOIR ROSE    2009    25    203034    NIAGARA

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Calamus Estate Winery    StarStruck    2011    $26.95         Niagara    winery

-Calamus Estate Winery    125 Rosé    2012    12.7        Niagara    winery

-Flat Rock Cellars    Pinot Noir Rose    2013    $16.95    39974    Niagara Peninsula

-Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte    Brut Rose    NV    57.95    267039    Champagne    Lifford  -Henry of Pelham    Pink House Wine Company    2013    $12.95     324558    Niagara -Konzelmann Estate Winery    Method Cuve Close - Rose    2010    16.2    184176

-Codorniu    Codorniu Seleccion Raventos Pinot Noir     NV    15.95    370080    Penedes

-Diamond Estates Winery    Fresh Sparkling Rosé $13.95    2012        341347    Niagara   

-Bottega    Il Vino dei Poeti Rose Brut    NV    13    277202    Veneto 

-Bisol    Jeio Cuvee Rose    NV    $13.95    325703    Veneto    Symposium -Creekside Estate    Cabernet Rose    2013    $15.95     48819    Niagara

-Oyster Bay    Sparkling Cuvee Rose    2012    $21.95    280172 Pinot Noir Marlborough

-Miguel Torres Chile    Santa Digna Estelado Rose Sparkling    NV     $19.95     31766

-Ogier    Cotes du Ventoux Rose    2012    10.95    134916    Rhone   

-Château des Charmes Cuvée d'Andrée Rosé    2013    $14.95 333260    Niagara-on-the-Lake   

-Bastianich    Rosato di Refosco Spumante    2012    18.95    Cons        The Vine

-Bodega Norton Malbec Rosado    2013    $10.95    #0367110    Mendoza

-Cono Sur    Bicicleta Pinot Noir Rose    2013    $9.95    318014    Bio Bio Valley

-Concha y Toro    Casillero del Diablo Shiraz Rose    2013    11.95    614016 Central Valley   

-Cave Spring Cellars    Rosé    2012    $14.95    295006    Niagara Peninsula   

-Malivoire     Ladybug Rose    2013    $15.95     559088    Niagara Peninsula

-Featherstone Winery    Rose    2013    14.95    117861    20 Mile Bench   

-Peninsula Ridge    Top Bench Rose VQA    2013    11.95    #324541    Lastiwka Vineyard, Twenty Mile Bench

-Rockway Vineyards    Patio 9 Pink Spritz    2012    $12.95     323766    Ontario   

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Soljans Estate     Fusion Sparkling Rose    NV    $21.75 Kumeu NZ Glen Ward Wines

-Fresita    Fresita    NV    $13.95    138388    Churchill Cellars

-Bernard Massard GmbH    Cuvée de l'Ecusson Brut Rosé Methode Traditionelle    N/V $19.95    369074    Luxembourg    hhdimports

-Julian Chivite    Gran Feudo Rosado    2012    11.95    165845    Navarra    Churchill

-Masi    Rosa dei Masi    2013    15    377267    Venetian    Authentic Wine & Spirits -Sophora    Sophora Sparking Rose    NV    $19.95    353664    Gisborne & Hawkes Bay   

-John Howard Cellars of Distinction    Bubblehead    2011    28.95    363655    Niagara

-Alliance Loire    De Chanceny' Crémant de Loire Brut Rosé    NV    18.8    211466

-Sandbanks Winery    Rosé    2012    12.95    244616    Ontario   

-Di Profio Wines    Gamay Rosé    2012    $15.70     n/a    Niagara    Carollynn Desjardins

-REIF ESTATE WINERY    CABERNET ROSE    2012    $12.95     372466       

-Pelee Island Winery    Pelee Pink    2012    $10.75     529354   

-Rosehall Run     Pixie Sparkling Rose    2012    17.95        Ontario

-Tawse Winery    Tawse Rose    2012    $15.95     N/A - Licensee only   

-Diamond Estates Winery    EastDell Summer Rosé    2012    $11.95     560243    Niagara

-Diamond Estates Winery    Fresh Rosé    2011    $11.95     192633    Niagara

-Ridge Road Winery    Rose    2013    $14.95         Niagara   

-Kacaba Vineyards    Rebecca Rose    2013    $14.95     227025    Niagara Escarpment   

-John Howard Cellars of Distinction    Pink Slip    2013    17.95    85126    Niagara

-Inniskillin Niagara     Pinot Noir Rose    2013    14.95    988133    Niagara   

-Emiliana    Adobe Reserva Rose    2013    11.95    #274399    Rapel Valley

-Francis Ford Coppola Winery    Sofia Rose    2013    19.95    284943 Monterey County Lifford

-Kim Crawford Pansy! Rosé    2013    $17.95     650325    Hawke's Bay   

-Sandbanks Winery    Love    2012    14.95    half-bottle 318394 Ontario [kir]

-MARTINI & ROSSI    Martini Rose NV    $13.95     125765    Piedmont & Veneto

 

The Food: none

The Downside: WWCC got a good response from Niagara. In the imported range there were only 11 still wines. While such wines were slated for early summer release (not late spring), samples were generally not available for media tastings. There were few wines from LENS and PEC.

The Upside: a chance to taste a range of sparkling rose wines as well

The Contact Person: deantudor@deantudor.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 93.

 

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR MARCH 29 2014 – BLUE MOON RELEASE

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR MARCH 29 2014 – BLUE MOON RELEASE

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.

Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium

"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1994. My LCBO tastings are based on MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.

 

 

====?>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *UNDER* $20

 

WHITE – Coopers Creek Select Vineyards Dillons Point Sauvignon Blanc 2012 Marlborough, +66092, $19.95: a kiwi savvy with a great gusto on the finish, terrific tartish flavours on the mid-palate. Twist top. QPR: 90.

 

RED – Arturo Garcia Solar de Sael Crianza Mencia 2007 Bierzo, +311902, $16.95: well-aged beauty, 14% ABV, made from older vines (80 years old or more), some raisins showing. QPR: 90.

 

 

====?>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *OVER* $20

 

Maison Roche de Bellene Vieilles Vignes Chassagne-Montrachet 2011, +241158, $49.95.

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

1.Featherstone Four Feathers 2011 VQA Niagara, +341586, $14.95: an engaging blend of riesling, with sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and gewurztraminer. Orchard fruit all the way, twist top, 12% ABV. A summery wine. QPR: 89.

2.Casa Silva Cuvee Colchagua Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2013, +24216, $14.95: savvy green tones (apples, grass, herbs, gooseberries) are fresh, good with food. Twist top. QPR: 89.

3.Cave du Haut-Poitou Vallee Loire Sauvignon Blanc 2012, +357293, $16.95: the last time I had Haut-Poitou the region was VDQS. Now it is AC, and still represents good value in a savvy. 13% ABV. Tangy and long citric finish with diminished grass tones. It must be savvy month at the LCBO: summer is upon us!!! QPR: 89.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

1.Vina Tarapaca Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Maipo, +18721, $17.95: lots of black fruit here, juicy blackberry and cassis. Aged in French and US oak for a year. 14.5% ABV. QPR: 89.

2.Wakefield Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Clare Valley, +744235, $17.95: a multiple gold winner and Decanter fave. 14% ABV, twist top, and leaning to the savoury side, a good match with food. QPR: 89.

3.Cathedral Cellar Shiraz 2009 WO Western Cape, +561142, $15.95: an undervalued mid-priced wine series from KWV, here with 14.5% ABV, already five years old. Many ripe tones, and can keep even more in your cellar.

4.Chateau Argadens 2009 Bordeaux Superieur, +681643, $17.95: from Sichel (since 2002), a pleasant blend of 63merlot/32cabernetsauvignon/5cabernetfranc. 14% ABV. Very fruity and capable of further aging. QPR: 89.

5.Sogrape Quinta Dos Carvalhais Colheita 2010 Dao, +13474, $17.95: great length and finish, fruity food wine. 13.5% ABV. QPR: 89.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10 markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1.Kim Crawford SP Spitfire Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Marlborough, +38240, $24.95 retail.

2.Planeta Chardonnay 2010 IGT Sicilia, +109652, $38.95 ISD.

3.Fries Family Duck Pond Pinot Noir 2010 Willamette Valley, +427872, $25.95.

4.Ringbolt 21 Barriques Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Margaret River, +367870, $44.95.

5.Yangarra Shiraz 2010 McLaren Vale, +911974, $29.95

6.Cloudy Bay Pinot Noir 2012 Marlborough, +598813, $39.95.

7.Chateau Fleur de Jean Gue 2010 Lalande-de-Pomerol, +729137, $24.95.

8.Clos Lunelles 2010 Cotes de Bordeaux-Castillon, +258053, $49.85.

9.Gemma Giblin Riserva Barolo 2006, +185025, $40.95.

10.Tenuta Vitanza Andretta Brunello di Montalcino 2007, +367367, $53.95.

11.Tommasi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2010, +356220, $49.95.

12.Beronia Gran Reserva 2006 Rioja, +940965, $34.95.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Benvenuto Brunello Toronto walk around tasting, March 10/14

The Date and Time: Monday, March 10, 2014  1PM to 4PM

The Event: Benvenuto Brunello Toronto walk around tasting

The Venue: AGO

The Target Audience: wine trade

The Availability/Catalogue: 31 wineries were here, including a few looking for agent importers. Wines were available through a variety of distribution channels, including private orders and consignment.

The Quote/Background: Featured were Brunello di Montalcino (and Riservas and single vineyards), Rosso di Montalcino, Sant'antimo and Moscadello di Montalcino.

The Wines: My palate fatigued rather easily with the onslaught of heavy duty reds. And I did not taste all of the red wines. Apart from one white (Fanti) used as a palate refresher, I tasted only red wines. All of the Donnatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino wines I tasted the day before or at this show – there is a separate writeup under March 9 (Sunday). Most producers/agents did not mind that I started with the Riservas and worked downwards.

 

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-La Fiorita Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2006, $109 TWC Con

-La Fiorita Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2007, $85 TWC Con

-Banfi Brunello di Montalcino 2008 Castello Banfi

-Banfi Brunello di Montalcino 200 Riserva Poggio alla Mura $95

-Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino 2008 Vigna La Casa Case for Wine

-Col d'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino 1997, +961714, $132

-Col d'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino 2004 Riserva Poggio al Vento

-Collosorbo Sant'Antimo Rosso Ciacci Giovanna 2012, $28.95 PMA

-Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino 2008

-Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino 2007 Riserva Vigna Paganelli

-La Fortuna Brunello di Montalcino 2006 Riserva

-La Mannella Brunello di Montalcino 2009 Selezione I Poggiarelli

-San Polino Brunello di Montalcino 2008

-Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino 2009 Majestic

-Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino 2006 Poggio Doria  Majestic

-Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino 2007 Riserva

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Fanti Brunello di Montalcino 2009, $59.95 Le Sommelier

-Fanti Santi'Antimo Rosso Sassomagno 2011, $19.95 Le Sommelier

-Fanti Santi'Antimo Bianco Soralisa 2012, $17.95 Le Sommelier

-La Fiorita Brunello di Montalcino 2007, $66  TWC con

-La Fiorita Brunello di Montalcino 2008, $66 TWC con

-Banfi Brunello di Montalcino 2007 Riserva Poggio all'Oro

-Barbi Brunello di Montalcino 2008

-Capanna Brunello di Montalcino 2006 Riserva

-Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino 2009

-Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino 2007 Riserva

-Caprili Brunello di Montalcino 2008 Riserva

-Castello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino 2009

-Castello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino 2006 Riserva

-Castello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino 2008

-Col d'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino 2006

-Col d'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino 2006 Riserva Poggio al Vento

-Collosorbo Sant'Antimo Rosso Le Due Gemme 2012, $15 – 17 PMA

-La Fortuna Brunello di Montalcino 2008

-La Mannella Brunello di Montalcino 2008

-La Mannella Brunello di Montalcino 2009

-Le Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino 2007 Riserva

-Corte Pavone Brunello di Montalcino 2008

-Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino 2007 Manachiara

-Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino 2007 Vigna Spuntali

-Villa Poggio Salvi Brunello di Montalcino 2009

 

The Food: international cheeses, charcuterie, breads, dips/condimenti.

The Downside: the food ran out by 3 PM

The Upside: a chance to see several new producers, and the venue was spacious.

The Contact Person: p.titone@ice.it

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 89.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Donatella Cinelli Colombini Tuscan wine tasting, March 9/14

The Date and Time: Sunday, March 9, 2014   4PM to 6PM

The Event: Donatella Cinelli Colombini Tuscan wine tasting, with Violante Gardini, the heir to the business.

The Venue: Fine Wine Reserve, King and Spadina

The Target Audience: private clients and wine media

The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available through Le Sommelier (www.lesommelier.com), some by private order, others in consignment or LCBO.

The Quote/Background: Violante was in town for next day's Brunello tasting; I have folded into here all of her wines from both shows.

 

The Wines: Some of her leading wines are in the Prime Donne series – four women winemakers/advisers select wines from the best barrels to produce a blend designated as top quality, but not every year. Over the passage of time, it appears that the best barrels are actually from 700 litre tonneau.

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Donnatella Cinelli Colombini Rosso di Montalcino 2011, $26.95

-Donnatella Cinelli Colombini Il Drago e le 8 Colombe IGT Toscana Rosso 2010, $28.95 Consignment (60sangiovese, 20merlot, 20sagrantino)

-Donnatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino Prime Donna 2007, $66.95 consigment

-Donnatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino Prime Donna 2008, $69.95 private

-Donnatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino 2009

-Donnatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2008

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Donnatella Cinelli Colombini Leone Rosso Orcia 2010, $20.95 Consignment

-Donnatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2004, $89.95 consignment

-Donnatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino 2007, $57.95 consignment

-Donnatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino 2008

-Donnatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2007

 

The Food: charcuterie, cheese, breads.

The Downside: I did not speak with Violante, mainly because it was a selling situation and the room was packed with people, including a cluster around her.

The Upside: a chance to taste her wide variety of wines at both shows.

The Contact Person: bernard@lesommelier.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 88.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Discover the world of Michel Chapoutier, a tasting of Chapoutier wines with lunch, March 4/14

The Date and Time: Tuesday, March 4, 2014 11AM to 2 PM

The Event: Discover the world of Michel Chapoutier, a tasting of Chapoutier
wines with lunch

The Venue: Ciao Wine Bar, Yorkville

The Target Audience: wine media

The Availability/Catalogue: all the wines that are available at the LCBO are
indicated below.

The Quote/Background: Michel Chapoutier is certainly eccentric, electric,
exotic, eclectic, erratic, energetic, exquisite and emotional. Welcome to
his charismatic and passionate world of winemaking. From the small (Braille
on Rhone labels) to the large (biodynamic vineyards in Hermitage), M.
Chapoutier is a "presence". In relation to his company, he also spoke to us
on quantum mechanics, Napoleon, and AOC status (it should be based on soil
health). He's responsible for 60 wine labels. Nevertheless, he opened his
seminar-talk with a glass of Champagne for all of us.

The Wines: We also tasted a variety of wines from a number of non-Rhone
locations (Alsace, Roussillon, Portugal, Australia).



**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Chapoutier Chante-Alouette 2011 Hermitage, $79.95, 14% ABV, biodynamic,
Classics Online +140541

-Chapoutier Bila Haut Occultum Lapidem 2011 Cotes du Roussillon Villages,
$25.45, 14.5% ABV. +643239 Vintages in October

-Chapoutier Le Meal 2011 Ermitage 2011 Rouge, $294.95, 14% ABV, oak aged,
biodynamic [Classics Online +360800 in September]

-Chapoutier Domaine Tournon Lady's Lane 2010 Victoria, $69.50, 14% ABV,
Classics Online +297465



***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating
terms):

-Schieferkopf Riesling Lieu-Dit Fels 2011 Alsace, $45.95, 13.5% ABV

-Chapoutier Le Meal 2011 Ermitage 2011 Blanc, $296.35, 14% ABV, oak aged,
biodynamic

-Chapoutier Pinteivera 2011 Portugal, $37.55, 14% ABV, +360537 Vintages

-Chapoutier Monier de la Sizeranne 2011 Hermitage, $105.50, 13.5% ABV,
biodynamic

[2010 vintage is +182725 at Vintages now, same price]



The Food: we ate off the menu. I tried pitted olives, focaccia, polenta logs
with dips, sauteed wild mushrooms, and grilled calamari. These went well
with the remainder of the wine in my glasses. Overall, with the food, I
preferred the Chante Alouette.

The Downside: we ate off a high top table, my feet dangled down.

The Upside: a chance to connect with Michel Chapoutier.

The Contact Person: jcocks@pdandurand.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 90.





Chimo! www.deantudor.com

APVSA Tasting in Toronto

The Date and Time: Monday, February 24, 2014 11AM to 5 PM

The Event: the bi-monthly APVSA tasting (Association pour la promotion des

vins et spiritueux en Amerique du Nord).

The Venue: Eaton Chelsea Inn

The Target Audience: wine agents.

The Availability/Catalogue: no wines are currently available in

Ontario. The group is here to get some agents to rep the

principal. Some of the wines are available in Quebec and Alberta.

Most of the wines were French, and there was sales staff available to

comment on the prices and production. This road show also visits such

places as New York, Los Angeles, Seattle, Las Vegas, Calgary,

Vancouver, Miami, Washington DC, and Montreal. Occasionally, the show

will have wines from Canada, Italy, Uruguay, Spain and Australia.

Sometimes spirits and VDN are also available.

The Wines: The problem I had with the wines, and one that must be

acknowledged, is that (by and large) they were about the same as wines

that we already have here in Ontario. There really did not seem to be

any price advantages, either. But these 40 or so wines could be made

available through Vintages or Consignment. In the past, quite a few

have been picked up for sale in Ontario; these were mostly the good

value or unique wines. Here were my faves from today, regardless of FOB

cost. I did not try every wine, even though there were winery assistants
this time.

The Wines: Prices are FOB. I did not taste every product. There were also
two excellent Bernard Boutinet Pineau des Charentes (17.5% ABV), one rouge
and one blanc, made with four year old Bernard Boutinet cognac. Available in
750mL and 375mL bottles.



**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Domaine Guiot Chateau Nimois Nitoi 2012 Rouge Costieres de Nimes, 2.85E

-Chateau Coustolle La Horse Canon Fronsac 2009, 17E

-Domaine du Bon Remede Vignes Rousses Ventoux 2011 Red, 3.80E

-Domaine Modat Comme Avant Cotes du Roussillon Villages Caramany 2011 Red,
6.5E

-Domaine Modat Sans Plus Attendre Cotes du Roussillon Villages Caramany 2011
Red, 8E



***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price

Rating terms):

-Domaine L'Enclos des Jumeaux Enclos de la Chance Les Jumeaux 2012 Blanc
Pays d'Oc, 4.75E

-Domaine Guiot Chateau Numa 2011 Rouge Costieres de Nimes, 4.75E

-Chateau Coustolle Canon Fronsac 2011, 7E

-Chateau Gobert Bordeaux 2012, 2.5E

-Chateau Haut Mousseau Prestige Cotes de Bourg 2009

-Chateau la Besage Bergerac 2011 Red Oak Aged, 3.90E

-Chateau la Maroutie Monbazillac 2011 [sweet], 5.31E

-La Place Anglaise Sauvignon Blanc Bergerac 2012

-Domaine de Fregate Bandol Rose 2012, 6.80E

-Domaine de Fregate Bandol 2009 Rouge, 7E

-Domaine de Berguerolles Le Clos IGP Cevennes 2012 White, 4.65E

-Domaine Modat De-ci De-la Cotes du Roussillon 2012 White, 6.50E [organic]

-Domaine du Bon Remede Pensee Sauvage Ventoux 2013 Rose, 2.40E



*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Domaine L'Enclos des Jumeaux Enclos de la Chance Aiguillettes 2012 Blanc
Pays d'Oc, 2.55E

-Domaine Guiot Tradition 2012 Rouge Costieres de Nimes, 2.65E

-Domaine Guiot Tradition 2012 Rose Costieres de Nimes, 2.65E

-Chateau Bellevue Favereau Bordeaux Superieur 2011 Red 2.90E

-Chateau Pontac Gadet Medoc 2010

-Les Brissaux Merlot/Cabernet Bergerac 2012 Red, 2.75E

-Clos d'Yvigne Bergerac 2008 Red Oak Aged, 5.95E

-Domaine de Berguerolles Merlot IGP Cevennes 2012, 2.22E

-Domaine de la Chastelle Cotes du Rhone Villages 2012, 3.90E

-Domaine de la Chastelle Cotes du Rhone 2012, 3.20E

-Domaine de la Chastelle Cotes du Rhone [labelling red] 2012, 2.80E



The Food: great hot pizzas, which went well with the wines, as always.

The Contact Person: Pascal p.fernand@apvsa.ca

The Marketing Effectiveness/Execution of the Event (numerical grade):

85



Chimo! www.deantudor.com

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR MARCH 15, 2014

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR MARCH 15, 2014

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.

Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium

"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1994. My LCBO tastings are based on MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.

 

 

====?>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *UNDER* $20

 

Charles & Charles Chardonnay 2012 Columbia Valley Washington State, +367888, $15.95: a good basic and affordable all-round chardonnay for all occasions (sipping, partying, drinking, with food)- balanced, buttery, vanilla, long finish, 13.3% ABV, twist top. QPR: 90.

 

====?>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *OVER* $20

 

Finca La Emperatriz Reserva 2007 Old Vines Rioja, +359927, $29.95

 

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

1.Cave Spring Estate Bottled Chardonnay Musque 2012 CSV VQA Beamsville, +246579, $15.95: a delightful, well-balanced muscat inflected chardonnay, great sipper, 14% ABV, good for first course or salads. QPR: 89.

2.Joffre Pasion 4 Torrontes 2013, +361063, $14.95: the wine of Toronto!, twist top, 13.5%, to remind us of sunnier times during summer – intense fragrance, citric finish, good body, nice with Asiatic food. QPT: 89.

3.Moulin Camus Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie 2012, +358630, $16.95: lovely full flavours, one of the best concentrated Muscadets I've tasted in years. Crisp, mineral flavours, 12% ABV. Gold Medalist. QPR: 89.

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

1.Yalumba Shiraz 2012 South Australia, +280883, $19.95: Euro style in leanness, bone dry, organic, black fruit in the syrah mode. QPR: 89.

2.Chateau Le Vieux Serestin 2009 Medoc, +138719, $17.95: typical MVC for Bordeaux, with four grape varieties, and value for the dollar. QPT: 89.

3.Les Grandes Serres Patrick Lesec Cuvee Suzon Beaumes-de-Venise Cotes du Rhone Villages 2011, +357053, $19.95: syrah dominates the long, long finish, quite an accomplishment. 15% ABV. QPR: 89.

4.Alpha Estate Axia Syrah/Xinomavro 2009 PGI Florina Greece, +239897, $17.95: a ballbuster, tasty heavily dominated syrah, 14% ABV. Wow – syrah style made three wines on my list this month! QPR: 89.

5.Tenuta Stefano Farina Le Brume Langhe 2009, +360073, $17.95: a good combo of barbera, nebbiolo, and merlot. The nebbiolo complexity shines through this North American appeal wine (toasty oak, black fruit, off-dry tones). 14.5% ABV, long finish. QPR: 89.

6.Giordano Collection Primitivo di Manduria 2011, +51797, $17.95: CalItal in style, off-dry finish, 14.5% ABV, toasty, fair price. QPR: 89.

7.Rodriguez Sanzo Lacrimus Crianza 2009 Rioja, +359968, $18.95: plush and lush rioja, farm-based tastes, great with food. Gold Medalist. 14% ABV. QPR: 89.

8.R. Reverte Odipus Old Vines Grenache 2008 Unfiltered Navarra, +366401, $15.95: the LCBO garnacha of the month, rich, motherly. Old vines and well-aged too. QPR: 89.

9.Garcia de Aranda Senorio de los Baldos 2009 Ribera del Duero, +366393, $19.95: delicious, well-aged, plummy, vanilla tones, tempranillo at crianza level, 14% ABV. QPR: 89.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10 markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1.Quails' Gate Chardonnay 2012 VQA Okanagan, +377770, $21.95 retail.

2.Elephant Hill Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Hawkes Bay, +361238, $23.95.

3.Domaine Bernard Millot Les Petits Charrons Meursault 2011, +130922, $53.95.

4.Bourillon-Dorleans La Bourdonnerie Demi-Sec Vouvray 2012, +357244, $21.95.

5.Domaine Masson-Blondelet Pouilly Fume 2012, +367029, $26.95.

6.Burning Kiln Strip Room Merlot/Cabernet Franc 2012 VQA Ontario, +327700, $24.95.

7.Ara Single Estate Pinot Noir 2011 Marlborough, +361279, $23.95.

8.Chateau L'Avocat 2010 Graves, +365650, $26.95.

9.Bachelder La Petite Charmotte Nuits-Saint-Georges 2011, +357228, $49.95.

10.Paitin Serra Barbaresco 2009, +360057, $32.95.

11.Rocca Delle Macie Tenuta Sant'Alfonso Chianti Classico 2011, +942094, $22.95.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

SOME NEW PRODUCTS TASTED THIS MONTH –

From Union Wine VQA Niagara –

 

1.Union White 2012 VQA Niagara, +197145 LCBO, $13.95: a virtual Ontario winery targeting the under-35 demo. It's strength seems to be in blended wines, hence "union".  This one definitely says "summer", as a blend of riesling, unoaked chardonnay, gewurztraminer, sauvignon blanc, and viognier all contribute to the North American-styled blend. 12.5% ABV, twist top, off-dry in what we used to call a (1), and intensely aromatic. Grape ratios may change from year to year, but these are the usual suspects. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

2.Union Gold 2011 VQA Niagara, +351049 LCBO, $14.95: The partnership of Allan Jackson (formerly of Jackson-Triggs) and Andrew von Teichman (of Von Terra wine agency) continues: twist top, 13% ABV, and a serious food wine here. Both the pinot gris (note the use of "gris" which is increasingly being applied to a higher style of pinot grigio) and the chardonnay have been barrel aged, while the aromatic sauvignon blanc and gewurztraminer are made in the tank. The result is a golden colour that is dry and crisp for food, with the edge of oak for complexity. The amount of gewurztraminer is very small, and I would like to taste the wine without its addition, just so I can check on its contribution. Maybe it adds character. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

3.Union Red 2010 VQA Niagara, +197152 LCBO, $13.95: from the noble vintage of 2010, blended from merlot, cabernet (no indication if this is cab franc or cab sauv, so presumably it is both), gamay noir, and pinot noir. 13.5% ABV, twist top. A full-bodied Bordeaux-styled wine, suitable for later courses at the table. Shows some herbs (from the franc?) and black fruit. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

4.Union Noir 2012 VQA Niagara, +277632 LCBO, $15.95: 13.5% ABV, twist top, and packed with upfront red fruit in a light style, better as a patio wine in summer or as a first course wine. Blend of pinot noir and gamay noir, very dry. Best served slightly chilled. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOK...

...is one of the hottest trends in cookbooks. Actually, they've been around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are automatic best sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or the restaurant and/or the media personality. Many of the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but more often there is not. I'll try to point this out. The usual shtick is "favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks". There is also PR copy on "demystifying ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf also includes much use of the magic phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books) don't seem to work at home, but how could that be? The books all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. The celebrity books, with well-known chefs or entertainers, seem to have too much self-involvement and ego. And, of course, there are a lot of food photo shots, verging on gastroporn. There are endorsements from other celebrities in magnificent cases of logrolling. If resources are cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books –

 

 

14.THE AL TIRAMISU RESTAURANT COOKBOOK; an elevated approach to authentic Italian cuisine (CreateSpace, 2013, 382 pages, ISBN 978-1-491205327, $40 US paper covers) is by chef-owner Luigi Diotaiuti, who is also a certified sommelier. In 1996 he opened Al Tiramisu in Washington, DC, and it is now a home for many politicians. It has also won awards for Italian cooking, from Italy, as "authentic". He's joined here by food writer/celebrity/opinionmaker Amy Riolo. In addition to about 100 recipes pulled from the restaurant, there is a bit of history of Italian food, Al Tiramisu, and Diotaiuti. The four major chapters each cover antipasti through dolci: one chapter is on the restaurant, another on the beginnings of Italian food, a third on Diotaiuti's travels, and finally the fourth deals with his life in America. That's roughly 25 preps a chapter. There are historical and family photos, as well as engaging mini-stories and tips after each recipe. Wine choices are also listed. Each recipe is special to Diotaiuti – fava beans with chicory, grilled sea bass with asparagus and potatoes, grilled veal chops with dried figs and port reduction, and sweet carnival fritters. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. The typeface size is large, a bonus for aging eyes, and this carries through to the index of principal plates. Both the Italian and the English name of the dish is included. A good, passionate family history and recipe sourcebook, and a great idea for patrons of the restaurant. It can be bought at the restaurant or through the publisher's website https://www.createspace.com/4378686

Quality/price rating: 87.

 

 

15.DOWN SOUTH; bourbon, pork, Gulf shrimp & second helpings of everything (Clarkson Potter,  2014; distr. Random House Canada, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0-7704-3318-5, $35 US hard covers) is by Donald Link, a Beard Award winning chef of several New Orleans restaurants – Herbsaint, Cochon, Peche, Calcasieu. His first book, Real Cajun, won the Beard for Best American Cookbook. He is again assisted by Paula Disbrowe, his coauthor from Real Cajun. As he says, "This cookbook is a collection of remembrances and recipes meant to make you hungry, make you laugh, and convey what it's like to be both a chef and an eater in today's South". The theme chapters include drinks, cocktail parties, outside cooking, roasts, feet/necks/bones, seafood, fresh veggies for sides, and southern sweets.  From the roast/braise/simmer and fry chapter alone – guinea hen gumbo, hunter's style braised duck, slow-roasted pork should with kumquats and chiles, tupelo honey-glazed ham, crispy pork cutlets, pork belly and smoked sausage cassoulet, and braised goat with yogurt sauce. There's also roasted fig tart, Mississippi mud pie, broiled flounder, and New Orleans BBQ shrimp. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Scattered throughout are memoir materials and a variety of non-food photos. Quality/price rating: 87.

 

 

16.THE CHEESEMONGER'S SEASONS; recipes for enjoying cheeses with ripe fruits and vegetables (Chronicle Books, 2014, 192 pages, ISBN 978-1-4521-1288-6, $35 US hard covers) is by Chester Hastings, chef and cheesemonger at Joan's on Third in LA. He's got more than 100 different varieties of domestic and imported cheeses. His first book was The Cheesemonger's Kitchen. This is a second helping or recipes: 90 preps that go with the seasons, beginning with Spring and moving to Winter. Every dish used cheese, of course: coffee-rubbed leg of lamb stuffed with spinach and aged cheddar, buckwheat pasta with savoy cabbage and potatoes and fontina/bitto cheese, melted vacherin with carrots, camembert with chanterelle duxelles, pear risotto with testun al barolo and hazelnuts. A good lively selection by season, illustrated by cheeses or plated dishes or just food.

Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.

 

 

17.KITCHEN WORKSHOP: PIZZA; hands-on cooking lessons for making amazing pizza at home (Quarry Books, 2014, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-59253-883-6, $24.99 US paper covers) is by Ruth Gresser, owner of Pizzeria Paradiso (since 1991) in Washington, DC. It's being touted as a complete pizza kitchen manual, detailing all the techniques and skills needed to produce pizza at home. It is loosely arranged by level of difficulty: basics (seven variations on tomato-cheese style, including a gluten-free one), the "classics" (margherita, quattro formaggi, calzone), a selection of originals from the pizzeria, and  chapters for creating your own (seven sauces, seven protein toppings, seven veggies, and seven fruit). That's 49 in all, a good number to begin with. It is a nice book, easy to use, and is clearly meant for those who are bored with eating out of a box or doing takeout. Inviting food photos too. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no overall table of equivalents.

Quality/price rating: 89.

 

 

18.EAT WELL AND STAY SLIM; the essential cuisine minceur (Frances Lincoln, 2014, 336 pages, ISBN 978-0-71123-536-6, $40 US hard covers) is by Michel Guerard, once a driving force behind nouvelle cuisine. His Cuisine Minceur has sold more than a million copies since it was first published in the 1970s. He has owned and operated Eugenie-les-Bains in southwest France since before his book; it has three Michelin stars. This current book was published in France in 2012, and it is here translated into English. There are forty years of culinary and nutritional wisdom here, with main courses coming in at 240 calories or less per person, aided by blends of vegetable and fruit purees. The 140 recipes include such tasty items as warm Thai chicken salad with potatoes (140 calories), tomato and strawberry gazpacho (75 calories), carpaccio of salmon with olives and tapioca, and spiced carrot and orange salad (75 calories). The top calorie item is French toast with vanilla-scented apple (240 calories). It is a complete book with the first 100 pages detailing the basics of the minceur cooking philosophy and techniques. The next 220 pages are the recipes. Each has cooking time prep and calorie count and level of difficulty. Good photography, although the list of ingredients has feinted printing. There is a glossary and two indexes: one by name of dish, the other by name of ingredient. It is also available as an ebook. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 90.

 

 

19.MY IRISH TABLE; recipes from the homeland and Restaurant Eve (Ten Speed Press, 2014; distr. Random House Canada, 272 pages, ISBN 978-1-60774-430-6, $35 US hard covers) is by Cathal Armstrong (an award-winning Irish chef with seven restaurants in the Washington DC area) and David Hagedorn (once a chef but now a food writer with the Washington Post). It comes with some heavy log rolling from Phyllis Richman and Alice Waters. The book was published relatively close to St. Patrick's Day, so I decided to have it jump the queue so this review will be released in a timely fashion. Ireland has much produce, dairy, seafood, and grass-fed meats, helped along by foreign investments. Armstrong talks about his Irish culinary heritage, and in memoirs here, writes about his progress from Dublin to Washington. One of the places he owns is named after his daughter Eve. Through it all, we learn that Armstrong is heavily involved with sustainability and local food movements, and is using his influences to heavily promote them. It is a great read. His book has 130 preps, mostly the Irish classics but tempered with his French culinary training. The arrangement is by topic: there are sections on Irish breakfasts, food his mother cooked, Friday fish days, special occasions (Sunday, St. Patrick's Day, Easter, birthday, Halloween, Christmas), preps from Restaurant Eve, garden food, breads, and desserts. There is a glossary, a resources list, and primers on sauces and stocks. Try an Irish Caesar salad, Irish BLT, pork belly with braised cabbage and poached apples, Irish coffee (of course), and Cashel Blue cheese and toasted pecan terrine with frisee and apple jam. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are conversion tables of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 89.

 

20.PIES AND TARTS (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2014, 330 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-87359-5, $29.99 US hard covers) is by the Culinary Institute of America and Kristina Petersen Migoya, a baking and pastry instructor at the CIA and formerly at Bouchon Bakery. Its subtitle says "the definitive guide to classic and contemporary favorites from the world's premier culinary college", but it also comes with log rolling from four respected bakers. There are 150 preps, easy-to-follow techniques based on college teaching, and a well-laid out scheme of ingredients that lists both volume and weight of the products. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents – which is a shame, since most of the world is metric and the volume is US alone. Anyway, these are the classics with some surprises and riffs (roasted ginger plum tart, salty caramel apple pie, Mexican chocolate tart). The crust recipes can be mixed and matched. Variations include seasonal flavours. Gluten-free flours do not seem to be a consideration. Most of the recipes, with extensive sections on tools, techniques, and finishing touches, are sweets. Savouries are the last 40 or so pages. Good value for the price. Quality/price rating: 87.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

THE AL TIRAMISU RESTAURANT COOKBOOK

THE AL TIRAMISU RESTAURANT COOKBOOK; an elevated approach to authentic Italian cuisine (CreateSpace, 2013, 382 pages, ISBN 978-1-491205327, $40 US paper covers) is by chef-owner Luigi Diotaiuti, who is also a certified sommelier. In 1996 he opened Al Tiramisu in Washington, DC, and it is now a home for many politicians. It has also won awards for Italian cooking, from Italy, as "authentic". He's joined here by food writer/celebrity/opinionmaker Amy Riolo. In addition to about 100 recipes pulled from the restaurant, there is a bit of history of Italian food, Al Tiramisu, and Diotaiuti. The four major chapters each cover antipasti through dolci: one chapter is on the restaurant, another on the beginnings of Italian food, a third on Diotaiuti's travels, and finally the fourth deals with his life in America. That's roughly 25 preps a chapter. There are historical and family photos, as well as engaging mini-stories and tips after each recipe. Wine choices are also listed. Each recipe is special to Diotaiuti – fava beans with chicory, grilled sea bass with asparagus and potatoes, grilled veal chops with dried figs and port reduction, and sweet carnival fritters. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. The typeface size is large, a bonus for aging eyes, and this carries through to the index of principal plates. Both the Italian and the English name of the dish is included. A good, passionate family history and recipe sourcebook, and a great idea for patrons of the restaurant. It can be bought at the restaurant or through the publisher's website https://www.createspace.com/4378686

Quality/price rating: 87.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

MY IRISH TABLE

MY IRISH TABLE; recipes from the homeland and Restaurant Eve (Ten Speed Press, 2014; distr. Random House Canada, 272 pages, ISBN 978-1-60774-430-6, $35 US hard covers) is by Cathal Armstrong (an award-winning Irish chef with seven restaurants in the Washington DC area) and David Hagedorn (once a chef but now a food writer with the Washington Post). It comes with some heavy log rolling from Phyllis Richman and Alice Waters. The book was published relatively close to St. Patrick's Day, so I decided to have it jump the queue so this review will be released in a timely fashion. Ireland has much produce, dairy, seafood, and grass-fed meats, helped along by foreign investments. Armstrong talks about his Irish culinary heritage, and in memoirs here, writes about his progress from Dublin to Washington. One of the places he owns is named after his daughter Eve. Through it all, we learn that Armstrong is heavily involved with sustainability and local food movements, and is using his influences to heavily promote them. It is a great read. His book has 130 preps, mostly the Irish classics but tempered with his French culinary training. The arrangement is by topic: there are sections on Irish breakfasts, food his mother cooked, Friday fish days, special occasions (Sunday, St. Patrick's Day, Easter, birthday, Halloween, Christmas), preps from Restaurant Eve, garden food, breads, and desserts. There is a glossary, a resources list, and primers on sauces and stocks. Try an Irish Caesar salad, Irish BLT, pork belly with braised cabbage and poached apples, Irish coffee (of course), and Cashel Blue cheese and toasted pecan terrine with frisee and apple jam. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are conversion tables of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 89.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

THE NEW SOUTHERN TABLE

THE NEW SOUTHERN TABLE; classic ingredients revisited (Fair Winds, 2014, 200 pages, ISBN 978-1-59233-585-5, $21.99 US soft covers) is by Brys Stephens, food writer and restaurant critic, now operating as www.cookthink.com. His book is arranged by ingredient: okra, field peas, squash, rice, collards, corn, sweet potatoes, lima beans,peanuts, pecans,figs, peaches, and watermelons – with something for everyone. There are about 100 recipes showing French, Mediterranean, Latin and Asian roots through combinations and techniques. Okra and feta shows off Greek tones, hoppin' john with coconut seems to be from the Caribbean, while Sicilian watermelon pudding is from Italy. Each product is introduced, there is photography, and some general food matching principles. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents.

Audience and level of use: lovers of Deep South food looking for a change.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: buttermilk pecan ice cream; chick, collard, and country ham saltimboca; forbidden coconut rice with mango; steak tacos with watermelon salsa; quick cook collards, chard and escarole; flounder in parchment with field peas, squash and peppers; peaches with pecan mint pesto.

The downside to this book: more recipes would have been useful because this is a great idea.

The upside to this book: good concept.

Quality/Price Rating: 88.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

RAWSOME VEGAN BAKING

RAWSOME VEGAN BAKING (Page Street, 2014, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-62414-055-6, $19.99 US paper covers) is by Emily von Euw, creator of the blog www.thisrawsomeveganlife.com which gets about a half million page views a month. The techniques, tips and preps come from the blog's site. It is a handsome book, made even the better with the exclusive Premium Binding which stays open for hand free viewing. The subtitle pretty much says it all: "an un-cookbook for raw, gluten-free, vegan, beautiful and sinfully sweet cookies, cakes, bars and cupcakes". It manages to combine three trends in one: raw, vegan, and gluten-free. Certainly these are healthier alternatives to many current desserts that are laden with bad sugars and bad fats. Over 100 recipes go into details such as use of the food processor and blender. An example given is the vanilla chocolate chunk cheesecake with peanut butter which uses oats, pitted dates, bananas, coconut oil, cashews, carob powder, peanut butter and chocolate – everything is raw. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no overall table of equivalents.

Audience and level of use: vegans, desert lovers, gluten-free eaters, fans of raw food.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: s'mores cupcakes; sorbet with strawberries, agave and mint; rhubarb almond crumble with maple oregano glaze; caramel tarts with pistachios and pumpkin seeds; chocolate nut butter cups; blueberry strawberry banana ice cream cake; "endless energy bars" (nuts seeds, figs, raisins, coconut).

The downside to this book: I would have liked more recipes, but I suppose these can be found at the blog.

The upside to this book: the concept and the binding.

Quality/Price Rating: 89.

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