* THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOK...,,

 

...is one of the hottest trends in cookbooks. Actually, they've been around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are automatic best sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or the restaurant and/or the media personality. Many of the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but more often there is not. I'll try to point this out. The usual shtick is "favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks". There is also PR copy on "demystifying ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf also includes much use of the magic phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books) don't seem to work at home, but how could that be? The books all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. The celebrity books, with well-known chefs or entertainers, seem to have too much self-involvement and ego. And, of course, there are a lot of food photo shots, verging on gastroporn. There are endorsements from other celebrities in magnificent cases of logrolling. If resources are cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books –

 

 

7.DELISH INSANE SWEETS: bake yourself a little crazy (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2019, 238 pages, ISBN 978-0-358-19334-9 $22.99 USD hardbound) is by Joanna Saltz and The Editors of Delish. Saltz is the Editorial Director and author of Delish: Eat Like Everyday's the Weekend; Delish is a fast-growing food media brand on the Internet. Here are 130 recipes of sinful desserts, none of them guilt-free. So they are put out there for you...Chapters are sorted by categories such as cookies, brownies, bars, cupcakes, blondies, "giants", and Christmas. Lots of colourful, decorative photos. But the book could have been improved if it had also used metric in the recipes, or at least had a metric conversion chart.

Audience and level of use: sugar freaks; millennials

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: death by chocolate cookies, and brownies; inside-out red velvet cookies; s'mores skillet cookie; giant oreo cake; mini eggnog cheesecakes; oatmeal fudge bars.

The downside to this book: no Bakewells (neither tart or pudding).

The upside to this book: great rush of sugar hits.

Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

 

8.THE GAIJIN COOKBOOK: Japanese recipes from a chef, father, eater and lifelong outsider (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2019, 256 pages, ISBN  978-1-328-95435-0 $30 USD hardbound) is by Ivan Orkin (author of Ivan Ramen and a TV chef, plus ownership of two restaurants in NYC) and Chris Ying (co-founder of Lucky Peach). "Gaijin" is an outsider to Japan. This is a book of really good Japanese home-cooked foods. He's got a pantry and an ingredient list, plus a contents listing of the recipes by category (such as "rice dishes and dishes to eat over rice", broth and stews, apps, entrees to share, hot pots, noodles, bagels and sandwiches). His home preps are divided by chapters, such as "eat more Japanese", "empathy", "geeking out", "good times", and "New Year's". It's a fun book, encouraging us to eat more Japanese food and involving our kids in prepping and feeding. He has a selection of recipes from the vanishing Japanese diner. Fascinating book, well worth a look. It goes beyond teriyaki, yakitori, and soba...for the better.

The book could have been improved if it also used metric in the recipes, or at least had a metric conversion chart. Quality/price rating: 88

 

May we all have 2020 vision.
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for JULY 25, 2020

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES:  under/over $20 for JULY 25, 2020

 

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at http://www.deantudor.com since 1994.

 

These notes for good wines available through  LCBO Vintages (on a bi-weekly basis)  can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca  or at  http://www.deantudor.com No winery can buy their way into – or out of – this publication.

 

Scores are a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, e.g. a Southern Rhone would taste like a Southern Rhone) and QPR (Quality/Price Ratio value in the marketplace above or below its price).

 

Currently, the wine media have no access to the 50 or so tasting samples usually provided to us in the LCBO lab on a fortnightly basis. This will go on or some time. HOWEVER,  the wine media will still have access to the advance spreadsheet of the wines to be released. So I know what is to be released and when. SOME (but not many) of these wines I have recently tasted since January 2020 or so, and I can comfortably recommend them based on this prior sampling.

 

Some New Wines Tasted Over the Past Fortnight ---

 

1.Stel + Mar Premium Red California +14775 LCBO, $4.95 for 250 mL can: is actually a pretty decent 100% zinfandel from Lodi, vintage 2018 (not listed on the can), with cherry-berry all the way, accented with notes of mocha-vanillin tones. Typically California. The package holds about two glasses, perfect for one or two people on a picnic or back yard, and is the equivalent value of a 750mL bottle selling at $15. 13.7% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 87 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

2.Stel + Mar Premium White California +14776 LCBO, $4.95 for 250 mL can: is actually a very good 100% unoaked chardonnay from The North Coast, also 2018 vintage (not listed on the can). 2019 will in stores soon. By properly making cuvees of the many chardonnay vineyards available, it was possible to get the most out of the wine. It shows some vanilla minerality with some lingering toffee tones, so it goes well with food. Typical ripe orchard fruit on the main palate. Chills really fast. 14.5% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

3.Stel + Mar Rose Tetra California, +15515 LCBO, 3 Litres (6 x 500mL in tetra, $45.95):  Simple, easy to drink Californian smooth rose, good with picnics of course. The size is right – two-thirds of a bottle, 17 ounces (four drinks). A good idea for a picnic. Pretty basic wine with proper (and quick) chilling. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

4.Stel + Mar Sparkling Rose California 250 mL can (not yet available at LCBO):  The Sparkling Rose (12.5% ABV) is off-dry, but the bubbles are an added attraction. Apparently it is their basic rose (see above, the Tetra) but with bubbles. Bubbles make it so much better. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

5.Toro Centenario Malbec 2019 Mendoza, +12452, $9.60 LCBO: newly arrived with its twist top access. There is only one word needed to describe this wine: plump. It comes from FeCoVitA, one of the largest co-ops in the Argentine (over 5000 winegrowers and producers). In producing a low-cost entry level wine, the co-op got it right with plum, blackberry and black cherry flavours. Nothing fancy, just pure plumpness at 12.5% ABV and a modest sugar level of 7 g/L finishing dry on the palate. Great for today's summery patios. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

THIS MONTH'S SPECIAL FINDS --

 

Sparkling+515254    VILARNAU BARCELONA RESERVA BRUT CAVA    Traditional method, DO, Spain        $15.95     MVC/QPR: 90

 

ROSE for the Summer --

 

Rose+388702    THE FOREIGN AFFAIR AMAROSÉ    VQA Niagara Peninsula    2019    $19.95   

MVC/QPR:  91

Rose+15273    ST HALLETT DRY ROSÉ    Barossa Valley, South Australia    2019    $19.95 MVC/QPR: 89

Rose+491019    CHÂTEAU D'ESCLANS WHISPERING ANGEL ROSÉ    AC Côtes de Provence    2019    $62.95 MVC/QPR:  90

Rose+15135    MAESTRAL ROSÉ    IGP Gard    2019    $16.95     MVC/QPR:  91

 

Under $20

=========

W+80234    FEATHERSTONE BLACK SHEEP RIESLING    VQA Niagara Peninsula    ESSENTIAL    $18.95       MVC/QPR:  90

W+707158    ZENATO SAN BENEDETTO LUGANA    DOC    2019    $19.95     MVC/QPR: 89

W+389767    THE FOREIGN AFFAIR CONSPIRACY BIANCO    VQA Niagara Peninsula    2018    $17.95 MVC/QPR: 89

W+520668    CREW FLAGSHIP CHARDONNAY    VQA Lake Erie North Shore    2017    $19.95

MVC/QPR:  89

R+247882    HENRY OF PELHAM FAMILY TREE RED    VQA Ontario    2017    $18.95 MVC/QPR:  89

R+24117    ST HALLETT GAMEKEEPER'S SHIRAZ/GRENACHE/TOURIGA    Barossa, South Australia    2018    $17.95  MVC/QPR:  89

R+434373    CANTINE DUE PALME ETTAMIANO PRIMITIVO    IGP Salento    2018    $19.95 MVC/QPR:  90

 

Over $20

=========

W+425322    WESTCOTT LILLIAS CHARDONNAY    VQA Niagara Escarpment    2019    $24.95        

MVC/QPR:  90

May we all have 2020 vision.
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

* THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOK...

* THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOK...

  +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

 

...is one of the hottest trends in cookbooks. Actually, they've been around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are automatic best sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or the restaurant and/or the media personality. Many of the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but more often there is not. I'll try to point this out. The usual shtick is "favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks". There is also PR copy on "demystifying ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf also includes much use of the magic phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books) don't seem to work at home, but how could that be? The books all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. The celebrity books, with well-known chefs or entertainers, seem to have too much self-involvement and ego. And, of course, there are a lot of food photo shots, verging on gastroporn. There are endorsements from other celebrities in magnificent cases of logrolling. If resources are cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books –

 

 

8.EATING FOR PLEASURE, PEOPLE, & PLANET (Interlink Books, 2020, 240 pages, ISBN 978-1-62371-953-1 $35 USD hardbound) is by Tom Hunt, the award-winning British chef at Poco (UK). He is also a food writer offering ingenuous no-waste recipes. He's also a director or member of several food associations which deal with hunger and poverty. Here his message is basically "eat well, waste nothing", concentrating on sustainable diets for everyday cooking that consider how we farm, trade, eat, and dispose of food. The first part of the book (in 50 pages) deals with a roots-to-fruit manifesto for eating for pleasure, eating whole foods, and eating the best food you can (better farming, Fairtrade). The recipes are divided into morning meals, slow food fast at lunch and dinner, family meals, feats plates, new ways with salads, and sweet treats. At the end there is a "roots-to-fruit" pantry: aquafaba, green sauces, umami powders, kombucha, stocks, barley water, pickles and preserves, apple cider vinegars, bread and pastries, and plant-based milks. The book could have been improved if it also used more metric in the recipes, or at least had a metric conversion chart. Quality/price rating: 90.

 

 

9.BAKING WITH BRUNO; a French baker's North American love story (Whitecap, 2020, 148 pages, ISBN 978-1-77050-332-8 $34.95 CAD paperbound) is by Chef Bruno Feldeisen, a French-born baker and pastry chef with extensive North American west coast experience and multiple TV appearances on the Food Network and CBC, etc. He's always been intrigued by local North American food, and he developed recipes for these plates. He's got a pantry, a tools kit, and the procedures (all laid out for us in the first 30 pages). He begins with jams and sauces before moving on to cookies and sweets, custards, puddings and mousses, followed by cakes and tarts, breads and pies. It's a nifty book, and the photos by Henry Wu do a very good job of illustrating the finished plate, right down to a stray crumb or two. Ingredients are listed in both metric and avoirdupois Imperial, very much appreciated by baking fans. Quality/price rating: 89.

 

------------------------------------------------------------------------

May we all have 2020 vision.
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

* FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH! *

* FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH! *

  +++++++++++++++++++

 

MAN'OUSHE; inside the Lebanese street corner baker (Interlink Books, 2020, 200 pages, $43.95 hardbound) is by Barbara Abdeni Massaad, a food writer whose family owned a Lebanese restaurant "Kebabs and Things" in Florida. She has since located back to Lebanon, and here gives us a stunning document about kitchen rituals and traditions of Lebanese culture. The national pie is man'oushe, and she has 70 recipes for the perfect style of pies as found in  a Lebanese bakery. It's a great snack, and she goes through the range of fillings, from cheese, yogurt, egg, chicken, meat preserve, and Armenian sausage. Photography is by her and by Raymond Yazbeck. She tells stories about the bakeries, the places, and the types of pies. She's got a pantry description as well as kitchen tools and techniques for making/baking the dough. And of course it all starts with za'tar and wild thyme pie. It's a work of art, not just a cookbook, and has been been endorsed by both Alice Waters and Paula Wolfert. The book could have been improved if it also used metric in the recipes, or at least had a metric conversion chart. Quality/price rating: 91

May we all have 2020 vision.
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

SOME NEW BEVERAGE SAMPLES SENT TO ME FOR TASTING THIS QUARTER –

 

SOME NEW BEVERAGE SAMPLES SENT TO ME FOR TASTING THIS QUARTER –

 

1.Henry of Pelham Riesling Speck Family Reserve 2018 VQA Short Hills Bench, +643361 Vintages June, $24.95 [now available online and at winery]: absolutely delicious MVC intense riesling in a Rhine style, with an off-dry palate but a dry finish (good acid levels on the finish); broad fruity strokes of peaches and flowers on the mid-palate; quite a blazing riesling with intense pleasure, sip or food. 10.5% ABV, cork closure, from HOP's oldest Estate vineyards (35+ year old riesling vines, handpicked). Try with rich bivalve dishes or porchetta. Should improve in the bottle over the years. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

 

2.Gerard Bertrand Grand Terroir La Clape Syrah/Carignan/Mourvedre 2016 AOP Coteaux du Languedoc La Clape, +370262, $19.95 Vintages June: the South of France bargains continue at the LCBO with this southern Rhone clone emphasizing aromatic red fruit (with some black) and garrigue. Nice long finish for that heavy meat dish. 14% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

3.Gerard Bertrand Terroir Corbieres 2016 $17.95 +394288 Vintages: In this Terroir Corbieres (from the Narbonne), Bertrand uses traditional fermentation for the syrah, grenache and mourvedre. It is an appealing Rhonish G-S-M, with one-third of the blended wine aging in wood for nine months before bottling. Very firm with some very dark fruit on the very full finish. 14% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

4.Quails' Gate Chardonnay 2018 BCVQA Okanagan Valley +377770 $24.95 Vintages Essential: from one of the leading producers of Chardonnay in BC. Soft orchard fruit (pear, apple, peach), some citrus tones. Soft and versatile, with a medium balance good to accompany any foods. 13% ABV, Residual Sugar 1.0 g/L. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

5.Westcott Vineyards Temperance 2018 VQA Vinemount Ridge $19.99 winery [and SAQ +14209964]: this is a passtoutgrain-styled wine (as found in Burgundy) which is very popular in France, made from 50% Gamay Noir and 50% Pinot Noir grapes. There is a 30-day maceration, with a stainless steel all wild and malo-lactic fermentation. Very soft, fleshy, fruity (despite a low residual sugar of only 1 g/L), good for the patio and deck. It would be excellent with all kinds of soups. 12% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

 

7.Westcott Vineyards Brilliant Traditional Sparkling 2013 VQA Vinemount Ridge $39.99 winery, licensees: this is a still-fresh terrific sparkler done up in the traditional style of long lees contact (75 months here), hand riddling, and disgorgement for a secondary fermentation in the bottle. 667 cases were produced of this pinot noir (66%) and chardonnay (33%) blend from their own estate in Vinemount Ridge. It's got a complex basket of flavours, ranging from orchard fruit through to citrus, with the lightness of the chardonnay being balanced off against the heavier tones of the pinot noir. It stays this way right from the entry through to the long finish, and the latter makes this a pretty good food wine too. You'll need to put some down for 2025. 12.9% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

 

8.Westcott Vineyards Lillias Chardonnay 2019 VQA Niagara Escarpment $24.99 +425322 Vintages: a bright and fresh Chardonnay reflective of the vintage. Tank fermentation and storage with full MLF to soften, and six months lees contact. No oak. Slightly off-dry feel despite 1.8 g/L residual sugar, but a rounded mid-palate. Very stylish with a light lingering finish, great as a non-appetite-provoking aperitif, which makes it a fab cocktail party white wine. Emphasis is on fresh orchard fruit (apples, pears, peaches): it could change over the next two years, which would make it more versatile in being also a first course wine. 12.9% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

9.Westcott Vineyards Estate Chardonnay 2018 VQA Niagara Escarpment $29.99 winery, licensee:  much like Lillias but with oak overtones. This Estate wine has had full MLF, 100% wild yeast, barrel fermentation, and French oak aging for 9 months (20% new, 40% one fill). Two different clones were used (95, 96), and the results show a typical Westcott feature of orchard fruit with some tropicality concentrated notes contributed by the oak aging' leading to a slight citric finish. Still too young, lay it down – or taste it (as I did) over a stretch of time. A good first course wine since the oak appears in the background as grace notes. 12.5% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

10.Westcott Vineyards Reserve Chardonnay 2018 VQA Vinemount Ridge $44.99 winery:

11.Westcott Vineyards Block 76 Chardonnay 2018 VQA Vinemount Ridge $44.99 Wine Club:

this is a great exercise in comparative horizontal values. The Block 76 is new this year, made for the first time as an exclusive for the Westcott Wine Club. Differences are notable but subtle. Both labels are elegant Burgundian-styled wines, with virtually the same winemaking of full malolactic fermentation and wild yeast, but Block 76 has limited lees stirring. Both are barrel fermented and aged for 10 months in French oak, but Block 76 has more new oak than the Reserve. Block 76 is 12.8% ABV; Reserve is 12.5% ABV. Block 76 has slightly higher total acidity. Chardonnay clones 95 and 96 were used in the Reserve; Chardonnay clone 76 was used in, well, Block 76. But both had strong whiffs of pineapple and butter on the nose. The proof is in the pudding: a tasting over several days showed a more "complex basket" of medium-toned flavours for the Block 76, which was ultimately (and given that it is the same price) my choice of the two. The wines got better as they were exposed to more air over a week; new bottles should really be laid down for a few more years. Soft elegance and incipient balance are keystones here in the long, lingering finish. Also, do not overchill: it just mutes the flavours of layers of fruit and wood. Quality/Price rating for the Westcott Reserve is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures. Quality/Price rating for the Westcott Block 76 is 93+ points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

12.Westcott Vineyards Riesling Butler's Grant 2019 VQA Twenty Mile Bench (available as a Wine Club Exclusive only) $24.99: a new entry in the Westcott lineup, a devilishly competent 10% ABV Mosel style and light...first time produced. Parts of the vineyard were planted in 1980. Perfectly attuned to summer, if you can find it (the wine, that is): mine was a trade sample, It was delicious in that Germanic style, ready for consumption now. And certainly affordable for an "old vines" wine. 40 cases offered.

Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

 

13.Baron de Hoen Gewurztraminer Reserve 2017 Alsace, +377721 Vintages $19.95 July 11: from around Beblenheim area, cool fermentation with typical gewurz tones of spices, lychee, roses. 13.5% ABV. Best as aperitif, or with fragrant cheeses, spicy foods. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

 

14.Gerard Bertrand Terroir Picpoul de Pinet 2019 AOP Picpoul de Pinet Languedoc, +13000, $17.95 Vintages July 25: from between Narbonne and Montpellier, just north of the Mediterranean. Affordable tastiness from the piquepoul grape, 13% ABV, twist top. Expect white floral and mineral tones, with medium acidity, some citrus notes and honey on the finish. One to go up against pinot grigio (but it is better than). Best with shellfish or eels rather than sipping. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

15.McPink Blended Scotch Whisky and Port Cask Finish, $59.95 700 ml bottle. Vintages +12248: McPink is so-called because it has been matured in a Port-wood cask giving it a pink tinge. The tech sheet says it is a blend of 16 single malts (60%) and Edinburgh grain whisky (40%). It's a sweeter and fruitier spirit, made to compete with rums and gins in the "neat" and "soda" market. There's a nose of stewed red fruit such as strawberry plus some mocha elements, and the redness persists on the palate and on the finish. Some herbal complexity makes this a real treat: why mix it? Of course, as a blended whisky, you can, but why bother?  Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

 

16.Featherstone Estate Winery Canadian Oak Chardonnay 2018 VQA Niagara Peninsula $21.95 +149302 Vintages May: one of my faves, and occasionally an LTO at under $20. Over the years it has simply gotten better as the grapevines matured. Wild indigenous yeast is used. Good mid-tone oaky component (it is very easy to say it is mid-way between French and US oak) from the use of nearby Canadian oak trees. 10% new oak, 90% 1 to 5 year old. Terrific ripe orchard fruit aromas and palate. Plus vanillin and cream after the mid-palate leading to citric food friendly finish. Needs more time for balancing, but then at that time it will be awesome. 13.2% ABV. Only 0.26 g/L residual sugar. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

17.Featherstone Estate Winery Four Feathers 2019 VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 +341586 August 22 and Dec 12: a summer social sipper or quaffer, combining 50% riesling and 40% chardonnay with 8% sauvignon blanc and 2% gewurztraminer – all highly aromatic grapes. Stainless steel fermentation. Typical fruit flavours to be found include pineapple, melon, lemon, some mango, and some sweet parts of citric tones near the finish. 12.1%ABV. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

18.Featherstone Estate Winery Black Sheep Riesling 2018 VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 +80234 Vintages Essential: more in the Mosel mode than Rhine wine, this delicious sipper is loaded with a nose of citrus highlights (lemon, lime, grapefruit) evolving to orchard fruit on the mid-palate with some minerality and a long lean-ish finish which also makes it nifty food wine for Asiatic dishes of all sorts. Medium body but not dry.

Suitable for aging, to get that "petrol" character. 10.1% ABV. RS 20 g/L. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

19.Featherstone Estate Winery Cabernet Franc 2018 VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 +64618 Vintages Essential: a blend  of 86% cabernet franc and 14% merlot. 100% US oak was used – 25% new, balance in 1 to 4 year old barrels. Full malolactic fermentation. Medium-bodied with an assortment of berries, plums and cherries. Long, long finish showing tart-ish food-loving acid balances. Should go well with BBQ or other fatty meats. Keep for another few years (tasted daily for a week). 12.7% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

20.Featherstone Estate Winery Red Tail Merlot 2018 VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 +131540 Vintages May: Merlot is still recovering from its dissing by Pinot Noir in the movie "Sideways". But a lot of wineries are still making it. David Johnson the winemaker has here produced a delightfully fruity but dryish (RS 1.4 g/L) drop that is also affordable. Aged 10 months in French oak, 100% malolactic fermentation. Expect black fruit cherry-berry complexity, headed by black currant. Both a patio sipper and a food wine, and ready now for current drinking and accompanying any kind of comfort food. 12.4% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for JULY 11, 2020

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES:  under/over $20 for JULY 11, 2020

 

By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at http://www.deantudor.com since 1994.

 

These notes for good wines available through  LCBO Vintages (on a bi-weekly basis)  can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca  or at  http://www.deantudor.com No winery can buy their way into – or out of – this publication.

 

Scores are a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, e.g. a Southern Rhone would taste like a Southern Rhone) and QPR (Quality/Price Ratio value in the marketplace above or below its price).

 

Currently, the wine media have no access to the 50 or so tasting samples usually provided to us in the LCBO lab on a fortnightly basis. This will go on or some time. HOWEVER,  the wine media will still have access to the advance spreadsheet of the wines to be released. So I know what is to be released and when. SOME (but not many) of these wines I have recently tasted since January 2020 or so, and I can comfortably recommend them based on this prior sampling.

 

SOME NEW BEVERAGE SAMPLES SENT TO ME FOR TASTING THIS MONTH –

 

1.Stel + Mar Premium Red California +14775 LCBO, $4.95 for 250 mL can: is actually a pretty decent 100% zinfandel from Lodi, vintage 2018 (not listed on the can), with cherry-berry all the way, accented with notes of mocha-vanillin tones. Typically California. The package holds about two glasses, perfect for one or two people on a picnic or back yard, and is the equivalent value of a 750mL bottle selling at $15. 13.7% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 87 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

2.Stel + Mar Premium White California +14776 LCBO, $4.95 for 250 mL can: is actually a very good 100% unoaked chardonnay from The North Coast, also 2018 vintage (not listed on the can). By making cuvees of the many chardonnay vineyards available, the winemaker was possible to get the most out of the wine. It shows some vanilla minerality with some lingering toffee tones, so it goes well with food. Typical ripe orchard fruit on the main palate. Chills really fast. 14.5% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 89.5 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

3.Stel + Mar Rose Tetra California, +15515 LCBO, 3 Litres (6 x 500mL in tetra, $45.95):

Simple, easy to drink Californian smooth rose, good with picnics of course. The size is right – two-thirds of a bottle, 17 ounces (four drinks). A good idea for a picnic. Pretty basic wine with proper (and quick) chilling. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

4.Stel + Mar Sparkling Rose California 250 mL can (not yet available at LCBO):  The Sparkling Rose (12.5% ABV) is off-dry, but the bubbles are an added attraction. Apparently it is their basic rose (see above, the Tetra) but with bubbles. Bubbles make it so much better. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

SPECIAL FINDS IN THE JULY 11, 2020 RELEASE --

 

Sparkling +571661    CHARTRON ET TRÉBUCHET BRUT CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE CHARDONNAY    Traditional method, AP, Burgundy, France     2017    $21.95     MVC/QPR: 92

Rose +15139    TROUPIS FTERI AGIORGITIKO/MOSCHOFILERO ROSÉ    IGP Peloponnese        2018    $16.95     MVC/QPR: 89

 

Under $20

 

W+542365    SANTA EMA GRAN RESERVA CHARDONNAY    Sustainable, DO Leyda Valley        2018    $19.95   MVC/QPR: 90

W+13926    MICHELE CHIARLO PALÁS MOSCATO D'ASTI    DOC, Piedmont, Italy        2018    $13.95 MVC/QPR: 89

W+117945    TAHBILK MARSANNE    Certified carbon neutral, Nagambie Lakes, Central Victoria        2019    $17.95      MVC/QPR: 90

W+377721    BARON DE HOEN RÉSERVE GEWURZTRAMINER    AC Alsace        2018    $19.95     MVC/QPR: 91

W+15358    JESUITENHOF FUNDAMENT RIESLING TROCKEN    Qualitätswein        2018    $18.95 MVC/QPR: 89

R+15595    WATERKLOOF SERIOUSLY COOL CINSAULT    WO Stellenbosch    2018    $19.95    MVC/QPR: 89

R+698175    WATERKLOOF CIRCLE OF LIFE RED    WO Stellenbosch    2017    $19.95     MVC/QPR: 89

R+995704    ZENATO VALPOLICELLA SUPERIORE    DOC     2017    $18.95    MVC/QPR: 89

 

 

Over $20

 

W+10380    MOILLARD COQUILLAGE CHABLIS    AP    François Martenot    2018    $25.95             MVC/QPR:  89

W+184549    LE CLOS JORDANNE LE GRAND CLOS CHARDONNAY    VQA Niagara Peninsula    2017    $44.95            MVC/QPR: 90

W+462093    LIGHTFOOT & WOLFVILLE ANCIENNE WILD FERMENTED CHARDONNAY    Annapolis Valley, Nova Scotia        2017    $37.00            MVC/QPR: 89

W+958975    MER SOLEIL RESERVE CHARDONNAY     Santa Lucia Highlands, Monterey County        $29.95     MVC/QPR: 89

R+572305    LANGE TWINS ESTATE GROWN CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Sustainable, Lodi        2016    $24.95     MVC/QPR: 89

R+638445    MORANDÉ ADVENTURE VIGNO VIGNADORES OLD VINES DRY-FARMED CARIGNAN    Maule Valley    2016    $26.95    MVC/QPR: 89

R+912956    RUFFINO MODUS    IGT Toscana    2017    $29.95     MVC/QPR: 89

R+47118    CARPINETO RISERVA CHIANTI CLASSICO    DOCG     2015    $29.95 MVC/QPR: 89

 

 

May we all have 2020 vision.
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

* DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH! *

* DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH! *

  ++++++++++++++++++++++

 

1.GROWING YOUR OWN COCKTAILS, MOCKTAILS, TEAS & INFUSIONS (Fox Chapel Publishing, 2020, 152 pages, ISBN 978-1-62008-383-3, $18.99 USD soft covers) is by Jodi Helmer gardening author, who gives us gardening tips and how-to techniques for making artisanal beverages at home. Jeannette Hurt, author "Drink Like a Woman" works out the recipes. There are 64 plant profiles here for the best homegrown drink ingredients (rhubarb, lemon balm, kale, chamomile, ginger, etc.). The recipes range from a lavender mojito to a garden gin-and-tonic, to mint iced tea, and veggie juice. It is all arranged by plant part: leaves, flowers, fruits and vegetables, and roots, with other material about syrups, shrubs, and alcohol-free drinks. There are plant hardiness zone maps for Canada and the USA, plus a resources list for ordering through the internet. A perfect stay-at-home project.

Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.

Audience and level of use: a great read for the covid-19 pandemic, should motivate all to try it out.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: anise hyssop; fruit smoothie; citrus lift tea; French hibiscus 75; rhubarb gimlet; red sangria; garden margarita with strawberries and basil.

The downside to this book: just a little short -  I wanted more.

The upside to this book: it is both a gardening and a cocktail book.

Quality/Price Rating: 91

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com