WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for the JANUARY 20, 2024 release.
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at https://pages.pathcom.com/~dtudor since 1994. These notes for good wines available through LCBO Vintages (on a bi-weekly basis) can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca or at https://pages.pathcom.com/~dtudor No winery can buy their way into – or out of – this publication.
Scores are a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, e.g. a Southern Rhone would taste like a Southern Rhone) and QPR (Quality/Price Ratio value in the marketplace above or below its price).
I was one of the first to jump on the Robert Parker bandwagon, using numerical indications for scores. Why? Because with a database I could rate, rank and order wines in any fashion. It was just so convenient using databases. Unfortunately, the numerical system has been shown to be disgraced, so I am quitting any ranking by number. From now on, it will just be GOOD, BETTER and BEST, which will give me some wiggle room (e.g. is this wine an 87, 88, 89, or 90? Or all of them...depends on my mood and time of day). With the rigorous standards and lab testing by the LCBO, I can safely say that every single wine at the LCBO is at least GOOD, which I would numerically rank at 75-85 points. For reasons of time and space, I will NOT be listing GOOD wines. Just the BETTER (86-89) and BEST (90+ ) wines. This spread of points will probably relate to SILVER and GOLD medals, with BRONZE being "GOOD". Significantly, this also fits into my scheme for trade tastings (as noted below).
MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )
Sugar Content is indicated in grams per litre
MAJOR THEME: CALIFORNIA'S CENTRAL COAST
Recommended Wines Under $20
======================
W+907683 MARYNISSEN CHARDONNAY 2021 VQA Niagara Peninsula (XD - 4 g/L) $16.95 MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )
W+686675 SPY VALLEY SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022 Marlborough NZ (XD - 3 g/L) $19.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
W+259788 JOSEPH CATTIN RIESLING 2022 AC Alsace (XD - 5 g/L) $16.95 MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )
R+11851 CREEKSIDE RED TRACTOR CABERNET/MERLOT 2020 VQA Niagara Peninsula (XD - 6 g/L) $17.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+367318 KEW SOLDIER'S GRANT 2019 [appassimento] VQA Niagara Peninsula (XD - 2 g/L) $19.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+569988 MASSERIA BORGO DEI TRULLI PRIMITIVO 2022 IGP Salento Italy
(D - 12 g/L) $15.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+68510 ROCCA DELLE MACÌE SASYR SANGIOVESE/SYRAH 2020 IGT Toscana (XD - 8 g/L) $16.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
Recommended Wines Over $20
======================
W+986778 HESS SELECT MONTEREY COUNTY CHARDONNAY 2021 Monterey County (D - 7 g/L) $24.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+17687 WILLAMETTE VALLEY VINEYARDS WHOLE CLUSTER PINOT NOIR 2022 Willamette Valley Oregon (D - 11 g/L) $31.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+36760 CHARLES & CHARLES BOLT CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020 Columbia Valley Washington State (XD - 4 g/L) $25.95 MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )
R+17014 Chateau Ste. Michelle INTRINSIC RED BLEND 2020 Columbia Valley (XD - 5 g/L) $28.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+734681 SPY VALLEY PINOT NOIR 2020 Southern Valleys, Marlborough NZ (XD - 2 g/L) $26.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+318352 LAZZERETTI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2018 DOCG (XD - 2 g/L) $52.95 MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )
R+32696 TOMMASI I PIANETI RIPASSO VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO SUPERIORE 2019 DOC (XD - 6 g/L) $22.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
LIMITED TIME OFFERS: Some Recommended Wines from the LCBO's Limited Time Offers selections...these are good value...on sale through Sunday January 28, 2024
[fizz] +32209 Villa Sandi Valdobbiadene Extra Dry Prosecco Superior NV now $16.95, save $2
[rose]+25746 LVE French Rose Languedoc, now $27.95, save $2
R+328567 Cathedral Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon WO Western Cape South Africa now $16.95, save $3
R+258673 G.Marquis The Silver Line Pinot Noir VQA NOTL now $17.95, save $2
R+595280 Porcupine Ridhe Syrah WO Swartland South Africa now $14.95, save $3
R+360222 Seven Falls Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley Washington State now $20.95, save $3
French Cremant sparkling wines...
"Cremant" is a sparkling wine made in eight regions of France (in addition to the six regions below, Cremants are also made in Die and in Savoie). It is produced by the "Traditional Method" or "Methode Champenoise". It is different from Champagne only in that it uses local specified grape varieties, but not necessarily chardonnay/pinot noir/pinot meunier as specified in Champagne. The closest a Cremant can be to Champagne is Cremant de Bourgogne, which uses the same varieties as for Champagne. Cremants represent great value, and here are the latest 27 (some of which are sparkling roses) at the LCBO as of the New Year's 2024 [more different ones may be at the Consignment warehouse or available by private order]:
Chateau de Montgueret Cremant de Loire Brut $24.05
Montgueret Cremant De Loire Rose $21.00
Grande Cuvee 1531 De Aimery Cremant De Limoux $23.95
Bailly Lapierre Réserve Brut Crémant de Bourgogne $24.95
Sieur Gaillard Cremant de Bordeaux $23.65
De Chanceny Cremant De Loire Rose Brut $25.80
Veuve Ambal Cremant De Bourgogne Grande Cuvee Brut $25.30
Vitteaut-Alberti Cremant De Bourgogne Blanc Des Blancs $29.25
Domaine Schaeffer Cremant d'Alsace Brut Rose Terroirs 2018 $27.95
Cremant de Loire Brut Nature Leon & Jean $33.70
Cleebourg Clérotstein Auxerrois Crémant d'Alsace $19.95
Domaine Schaeffer Cremant d'Alsace Brut Tradition 2018 $26.05
Viteaut-Alberti Cremant de Bourgogne Blanc de Noirs Brut $28.25
Edition Abtei Himmerod Cremant Riesling Brut $25.95
Montgermont Crémant de Bourgogne Blanc de Noirs Brut Sparkling $28.95
Koenig Brut Crémant d'Alsace KPM $27.95
Henkell Brut Crémant de Loire 2016 $21.95
Crémant de Bourgogne Rosé Brut Perle d'Aurore Louis Bouillot $35.95
Domaine Baud Brut Sauvage Crémant du Jura Brut Sparkling $36.00
Veuve Ambal Grande Cuvée Brut Rosé Crémant de Bourgogne $19.95
Celene Cuvée Royale Rosé Crémant de Bordeaux $19.95
De Chanceny Brut Crémant de Loire $24.95
Louis Bouillot Perle Rare Brut Crémant de Bourgogne 2018 $22.95
Cave de Lugny Brut Blanc de Blancs Crémant de Bourgogne $22.95
Cave de Ribeauvillé Giersberger Brut Crémant d'Alsace $22.95
Louis Bouillot Perle d'Aurore Brut Rosé Crémant de Bourgogne $27.95
Emile Beyer Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Crémant d'Alsace $23.95
** Some New Spirits and Beers I Tasted Over the Past Season ---
SPIRITUALITY BITTERS NOTES
Armagnac--
Bas-Armagnac de Montal Les Hauts de Montrouge 2004 700 mL. +11426 Vintages October 21, 2023 $118: comes in a red wood gift box for the Christmas holidays. There are about 181 producers of Armagnac in Gascony, and many make single vintage bottlings unlike in Cognac. Hence, there are many bottles of older Armagnac brandies (10, 15, 20, 30 year olds) that sell everywhere in the world -- but in small lots. Montal's 2004 was aged a minimum of 19 years in oak. Armagnac sells well in Quebec – they recognize a bargain. 2004 is a blend of colombard, folle blanche, baco, and ugni blanc in a continuous distillation. Extremely aromatic with overtones of roasted nuts, caramel, vanilla, dried fruits (such as apricots), and oak character. Exceptionally smooth on the mid-palate and great soft length on the finish. 40% ABV. There should still be some left at the LCBO. Quality/Price rating is 93 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
Originally, I was going to call this review "Better Notes", but then I thought that was too coy. Bitters are better than they've ever been since they do a nice job of breaking down fried and breaded fats, oil and grease in the old tum-tum. Too many people today eat fried foods (I shudder to think what their digestive system will look like in 50 years), and that includes even some Japanese sushi. More sushi joints are adding tempura for extra crunch and filler, and as a way to keep costs down.
Zwack Unicum Bitters (500mL, +364851, $34) has come from Hungary (mostly) since 1790, with some production in other European countries. In 1992 it became a company limited by shares, and now has some involvement with other spirits such as Smirnoff vodka, Cinzano, Baileys, and Schlumberger TM sparkling wine. At 40% ABV it has not changed over the years. It's full of great herb extracts, water, alcohol, and some sugar to ameliorate the finish. Over 40 different herbs and spices are infused and distilled, and then aged for 6 months in oak. It's widely used as a hot toddy. This digestive liqueur allows for indulgence and spicy conditions. It can even be used as an amaro for aperitifs or as a mixer.
Underberg Bitters (3 x 20mL in a box, +214809, $8.25) calls itself a "Natural Herbal Digestive"; it's been made in Germany since 1846. In 1949 the company began producing only the small 20mL bottles as a single-shot pacifist for digestive ails. Unlike other bitters and amari, Underberg has no added sugar, but finishes with the texture of palate sweetness from natural fructose. We know that it is gluten-free, and that licorice is one of the principal extracted herbs, and that the herbs come from 43 different countries. 44% ABV but easy to swallow.
BEER NOTES
Originally I was going to call THIS review "Beer Nuts", but then I thought that was too coy and punny. I was given four beers from Innis & Gunn (repped by PMA) to write up as the company makes some changes in Ontario at the LCBO. Innis & Gunn was founded in 2003 in Scotland; this is now its 20th anniversary. The company specializes in Scottish ale, also called Scottish red beer, a sort-of milder stout with lower carbonation. My wife likes them for their character and lower carbonation. I usually drink just draught beer but it is pretty hard to tell the difference between draught Innis & Gunn and bottled Innis & Gun – principally because of the carbonation.
1.The Innis & Gunn Lager Beer (473mL cans, +33528, $2.95) now at the LCBO, is made in Ontario, brewed with barley and oats and aromatic hops. It replaces the 500mL can that was imported from Scotland, and the price has been reduced from $3.50 since it is now made locally. The taste remains the same with citrus tones and nuances of the basics of lager beer. 4.6% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
2.The Innis & Gunn Caribbean Rum Cask Beer (473mL cans, +33526, $3.75 normally, but $3.25 on sale through September 10 as an LTO, saving 50 cents) replaces the bottles and is brewed under license in Toronto. It's a standardized can size, and still 6.8% ABV. Using only barley and low bittering, it's matured in hand-selected rum casks, and this gives it a toffeed dried fruit and off-dry character with some vanilla tones. Matured 51 days in cask. My wife's fave. Quality/Price rating is 93 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
3.The Innis & Gunn Irish Whiskey Cask (500mL cans, +13618, $3.35) usually appears in Ontario in January and February, just ahead of St. Patrick's day. It's a Scottish oatmeal stout, with barley and oats, and it matures for 51 days in Irish whiskey casks coming in at 6.1% ABV. It's actually a "Product of Scotland" made in used Irish whiskey casks, exhibiting vanilla tones with nuances of coffee and chocolate (mocha elements) as do stouts. So it is a Limited Edition, and if you wanted more, then you had better buy more when it first comes out...watch for it next winter!! Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
4.The Innis & Gunn Islay Whisky Cask Beer Limited Edition (2 x 330mL bottles in a box, +25082, $12.95) is also a Laphroaig Edition in a double cardboard box. It's another in the Scottish red beer category. It's been double matured in Laphroaig first fill malt cask (10-year old single-malt Laphroaig) AND then in port casks. It's a malty amber ale, coming in at 7.4% ABV, full of peat smoke toffee and tobacco. Well-worth your consideration. Quantities are limited. Quality/Price rating is 94+ points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
