...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback
reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher
a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will
reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will
rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text
while keeping the focus tight. Here are some recent "re-editions"...
15. LIQUID MEMORY; why wine matters (Farrar, Straus and Giroux, 2009;
distr. D & M Publishers, 262 pages, ISBN 978-0-374-27257-9, $26 US hard
covers) is by Jonathan Nossiter, the director of the documentary
"Mondovino", which I felt was a terrific film. This is his first book,
originally published in French in 2007. Log rolling includes Bill
Buford and Neal Rosenthal (the latter appeared in the documentary and
has written "Reflections of a Wine Merchant"). For Nossiter, wine is an
essential art form, like movies, literature, music, and art. His book
is a mix of coverage. It is part memoir, part interview, part screed
(against snobs and fraudsters). Part I is about terroir, the sense of
place. Part II deals with power in the wine world, the motif of
"upmanship". Part III shows us his concern with Burgundy. And Part IV
is about authentic wines. It's a personal book, as all memoirs are, and
he does have a point of view. In fact, personal views do shape our
awareness of wine. His faves must be Burgundy followed by Bordeaux
since those have the most references in the book. And of course he has
a lot to say about Robert Parker, Jr. and Michel Rolland – both
strongly influential on changes to the Spanish wine industry, and not
for the better. I shouldn't be telling you these things, read it for
yourself. Quality/Price rating: 91.
16. RAISING STEAKS; the life and times of American beef (Mariner,
2009, 402 pages, ISBN 978-0-547-24769-4, $15.95 US soft covers) is by
Betty Fussell, a free lance writer who contributes to Gastronomica,
Food & Wine, Saveur, New Yorker, et al. She has also written ten
previous books, one most notably on corn. The book was originally
published in 2008 by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, and this is a straight
reprint. This is a scholarly book, with copious endnotes, a
bibliography of trade journals and books and foodbooks, and index. The
21 or so recipes, all indexed under "recipes", come from a variety of
sources, all acknowledged. Her story of beef is one best told through a
series of historical clashes, from the British pastoralists vs. the
Spanish ranchers, through buffalo vs. cattle, cowboys vs. industrial
machines, up to and including natural vs. growth hormones. She covers
breeds (e.g. Angus), feed and anti-biotics, slaughtering and abattoirs,
packaging and distribution, with details on butcher shops, tanneries,
steakhouses, the role of Chicago, and buffalo meat (much better for you
than beef). There are lots of facts and figures, augmented by
reproductions of archival posters, paintings and photos. For us in
Canada, there are occasional references, with headings in the index
such as "mad cow disease" and beef imports. No websites are listed in
the resources section. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no metric table of equivalents.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.
2009, 402 pages, ISBN 978-0-547-24769-4, $15.95 US soft covers) is by
Betty Fussell, a free lance writer who contributes to Gastronomica,
Food & Wine, Saveur, New Yorker, et al. She has also written ten
previous books, one most notably on corn. The book was originally
published in 2008 by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, and this is a straight
reprint. This is a scholarly book, with copious endnotes, a
bibliography of trade journals and books and foodbooks, and index. The
21 or so recipes, all indexed under "recipes", come from a variety of
sources, all acknowledged. Her story of beef is one best told through a
series of historical clashes, from the British pastoralists vs. the
Spanish ranchers, through buffalo vs. cattle, cowboys vs. industrial
machines, up to and including natural vs. growth hormones. She covers
breeds (e.g. Angus), feed and anti-biotics, slaughtering and abattoirs,
packaging and distribution, with details on butcher shops, tanneries,
steakhouses, the role of Chicago, and buffalo meat (much better for you
than beef). There are lots of facts and figures, augmented by
reproductions of archival posters, paintings and photos. For us in
Canada, there are occasional references, with headings in the index
such as "mad cow disease" and beef imports. No websites are listed in
the resources section. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no metric table of equivalents.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.
17. A TASTE OF MY LIFE (Corgi Books, 2009, 463 pages, ISBN 978-0-55215-
731-5, $23.95 CAD paper covers) is by Raymond Blanc, a French chef who
opened Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons (in 1984) near Oxford England. This
is his 2008 autobiography, self-described as "one man's hunger for
perfection". It's in memoir form, with stories from his French
childhood and his early apprentice days. The BBC described the original
of this book as "a rattling good read". It is a thorough and
comprehensive read. Blanc was instrumental in teaching Marco Pierre
White and Heston Blumenthal. Read his takes on molecular gastronomy and
on sustainability, plus children and food, hand washing, the Slow Food
movement, and even crows and dancing. Typical preps that he is
associated with (and are here in this book) include braised oxtail,
iced pineapple parfait, exotic fruit gratin with coconut rice, and eel
in teriyaki jelly. Preparations have their ingredients listed in either
metric or avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of
equivalents given. An important read. Quality/Price rating: 87.
731-5, $23.95 CAD paper covers) is by Raymond Blanc, a French chef who
opened Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons (in 1984) near Oxford England. This
is his 2008 autobiography, self-described as "one man's hunger for
perfection". It's in memoir form, with stories from his French
childhood and his early apprentice days. The BBC described the original
of this book as "a rattling good read". It is a thorough and
comprehensive read. Blanc was instrumental in teaching Marco Pierre
White and Heston Blumenthal. Read his takes on molecular gastronomy and
on sustainability, plus children and food, hand washing, the Slow Food
movement, and even crows and dancing. Typical preps that he is
associated with (and are here in this book) include braised oxtail,
iced pineapple parfait, exotic fruit gratin with coconut rice, and eel
in teriyaki jelly. Preparations have their ingredients listed in either
metric or avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of
equivalents given. An important read. Quality/Price rating: 87.
18. OLIVES & ORANGES; recipes & flavor secrets from Italy, Spain,
Cyprus & beyond (Houghton Mifflin, 2009 reprint, 372 pages, ISBN 978-0-
618-67764-1, $35 US hard covers) is by Sara Jenkins and Mindy Fox.
Jenkins, daughter of food writer Nancy Harmon Jenkins, has cheffed
mostly in New York city; she just opened Porchetta in the East Village.
Mindy Fox is a focusing food writer, now food editor at La Cucina
Italiana. Log rolling includes pieces by Mario (Batali), Paula
(Wolfert), Adam (Gopnik), and Molly (O'Neill). The preps are
Mediterranean, but for family reasons there is a strong run of Italian
and Eastern Mediterranean dishes. Try Fattouche from Lebanon; Green
beans with shaved onion, fried almonds and parmesan; Red onions cooked
in orange juice; Pan-roasted Brussels sprouts, turnips, and beets with
farm faro; or North African spiced shrimp. She begins with a
description of her "flavor pantry" (oils, salts and salty products,
grains and legumes, broths, herbs and spices, and cheeses) and then
moves on to small plates, salad, soup, pasta-risotto-polenta, fish,
poultry, meats, and then sweets. There is a US sources list and all
weights and measures are in avoirdupois (with no metric conversion
tables). There are no wine recommendations. Quality/price rating: 86.
19. LIGHTEN UP (Quadrille Publishing, 2009, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-
84400-701-1, $24.95 CAD soft covers) is by Jull Dupleix, who was the
Cook at The Times for six years. She has authored 14 other cookbooks.
This book was originally published in 2007, and in 2008 it was the
winner of the Guild of Food Writers (UK) Award for Work on Healthy
Eating. It is a basic book, taking classic regular preps and lightening
them up in terms of fat and calories and meats. She has sidebars to
cover bananas, raw food, breads, tofu, and umami. The book is arranged
by theme, so she gets you off to a good morning with a fully loaded
breakfast, followed by salads and soups, some spicy foods, some fast
food, some slow food, some easy food, some steamy food, and some
veggies and fruits. What I like about the book is the large typeface
and the ease of the instructions and the movement around the book. Try
her Thai beef with lemongrass, spring minestrone, spinach chana dal,
Japanese mushroom noodles, spaghetti alla puttanesca, or pineapple and
coconut soufflé. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is a metric table of equivalents.
Quality/Price rating: 89.
20. FLAVORS OF TUSCANY; recipes from the heart of Italy (Ryland Peters
& Small, 2006, 2009; distr. T. Allen, 160 pages, ISBN 1-84597-889-1,
$21.95 soft covers) is by Maxine Clark, a well-traveled food writer and
teacher specializing in Italian cuisine. It was originally published in
2006. There are also photos of the Tuscan surrounding area, farms,
markets, restaurants, bars, museums, and the like. So it is like a
"week at a cooking school", with photo demos and classic dishes. The
selection of regional dishes is arranged in meal order (antipasti,
soups, pasta, secondi, sides, and dolci). She has short essays on local
ingredients such as olives and olive oil, meats of white cattle or
fennel salami or wild boar, sheep cheese (pecorino), beans, mushrooms,
and wine including Vin Santo. Many dishes can also be varied with
different sauces and pesto (recipes furnished). There is a resources
list and website URLs for Italian and US mail orders. While US volume
measurements are used for the recipe ingredients, there is a metric
conversion chart on p.157. Try anchovies marinated in lemon; pancetta
and fennel puffs; ribollita soup; chestnut and pancetta soup;
pandiramerino (rosemary, sultana, and olive oil bread); fennel sausage
risotto. Quality/Price Rating: 85.
& Small, 2006, 2009; distr. T. Allen, 160 pages, ISBN 1-84597-889-1,
$21.95 soft covers) is by Maxine Clark, a well-traveled food writer and
teacher specializing in Italian cuisine. It was originally published in
2006. There are also photos of the Tuscan surrounding area, farms,
markets, restaurants, bars, museums, and the like. So it is like a
"week at a cooking school", with photo demos and classic dishes. The
selection of regional dishes is arranged in meal order (antipasti,
soups, pasta, secondi, sides, and dolci). She has short essays on local
ingredients such as olives and olive oil, meats of white cattle or
fennel salami or wild boar, sheep cheese (pecorino), beans, mushrooms,
and wine including Vin Santo. Many dishes can also be varied with
different sauces and pesto (recipes furnished). There is a resources
list and website URLs for Italian and US mail orders. While US volume
measurements are used for the recipe ingredients, there is a metric
conversion chart on p.157. Try anchovies marinated in lemon; pancetta
and fennel puffs; ribollita soup; chestnut and pancetta soup;
pandiramerino (rosemary, sultana, and olive oil bread); fennel sausage
risotto. Quality/Price Rating: 85.
21, THE NEW SAVORY WILD MUSHROOM (Greystone Books, 2009, 250 pages,
ISBN 978-1-55054-179-3, $28.95 CAD paper covers) is by Margaret
McKenny, who wrote the first edition in 1962. Since then it has been
revised in 1971 and 1987, and here it has been reissued. Over the
years, Daniel Stuntz and Joseph Ammirati have created the enlarged
editions. This classic now covers 199 fungi; it is a field guide to
picking and eating wild mushrooms, principally on the west coast.
Colour photos provide great identification, answering two important
queries: what is it? And can I eat it?. Full written descriptions give
identifications. Te book is arranged by species, beginning with
boletes, and then moving onto chanterelles, gilled mushrooms,
polyspores, spine funghi, coral funghi, jelly funghi, puffballs,
morels, and truffles. There is a chapter on mushroom poisons, and a
chapter on how to cook mushroom by Angelo Pellegrini. The book
concludes with a bibliography for advanced reading. Quality/Price
rating: 88.
ISBN 978-1-55054-179-3, $28.95 CAD paper covers) is by Margaret
McKenny, who wrote the first edition in 1962. Since then it has been
revised in 1971 and 1987, and here it has been reissued. Over the
years, Daniel Stuntz and Joseph Ammirati have created the enlarged
editions. This classic now covers 199 fungi; it is a field guide to
picking and eating wild mushrooms, principally on the west coast.
Colour photos provide great identification, answering two important
queries: what is it? And can I eat it?. Full written descriptions give
identifications. Te book is arranged by species, beginning with
boletes, and then moving onto chanterelles, gilled mushrooms,
polyspores, spine funghi, coral funghi, jelly funghi, puffballs,
morels, and truffles. There is a chapter on mushroom poisons, and a
chapter on how to cook mushroom by Angelo Pellegrini. The book
concludes with a bibliography for advanced reading. Quality/Price
rating: 88.
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