Search This Blog

Wednesday, September 29, 2010

Oct 2, 2010: WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR release

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR OCTOBER 2, 2010
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is a guide to
thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers
and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1995. My tastings are based on
MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price
Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE:
The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine
writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not available for re-
tasting.
 
TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Reif Estate Gewurztraminer 2008 VQA Niagara River: engaging, MVC all
the way, lovely bitterish finish. +127985, $14.95, QPR: 90.
2. Familia Zuccardi Santa Julia Reserva Chardonnay 2009 Mendoza:
lightly oaked, excellent consistency of balance and fruit, a food wine.
+932368, $12.95, QPR: 90.
3. Peter Lehmann Layers White 2009 Adelaide: a Conundrum-type blend,
ripe and full, off-dry, great value. +167171, $17.95, QPR: 90.
4. Torres Gran Vina Sol Chardonnay 2008 Penedes: bright, engaging, with
some vanilla and tropicality. 15% parellada lends some character.
+171660, $14.95, QPR: 90.
 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Michel Torino Don David Malbec Reserve 2008 Cafayate Valley: dense,
chunky, coffee and chocolate, good fruit set, long length. +64998,
$12.95, QPR: 90.
2. Trapiche Broquel Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Mendoza: from older vines,
some dust, MVC for the cabernet, big body. +17202, $15.95, QPR: 90.
3. Katnook Founder's Block Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Coonawarra: dense
fruit, but that Coonawarra elegance shows through. +660332, $17.95,
QPR: 90.
4. Sandalford Margaret River Cabernet/Merlot 2008: delicious, upfront
fruit, good Bordeaux-like intensity (4 grape varieties used). +191080,
$19.95, QPR: 90.
5. Chateau Le Peyrat 2006 Cotes de Castillon: good merlot Bordeaux, MVC
all the way, tastes like Bordeaux. +171090, $14.95, QPR: 90.
6. D'Angelo Aglianico del Vulture 2006: dep, dark, dense and complex,
needs open time to develop its flavours. +971689, $18.95, QPR: 89.
7. Rocca dei Mori Salice Salentino 2006: full, aromatic, mocha tones,
14% ABV. +180257, $14.95, QPR: 89.
8. Allegrini Corte Giara Ripasso Valpolicella 2008: ripe and plummy,
with some jam and tar notes, best with stuffed roasted meats. +83964,
$16.95, QPR: 89.
9. Bod. Neo El Arte de Vivir 2007 Ribero del Duero: dense,
overextracted, lots of fruit and tannins, long long finish, from older
vines. 13% ABV. Excellent value, buy it all. +137679, $13.95, QPR: 92.
 
VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.
 
1. Ferrari-Carano Chardonnay 2008 Sonoma, +295055, $29.95 retail.
2. La Crema Chardonnay 2008 Sonoma Coast, +962886, $29.95 retail.
3. Frogmore Creek Chardonnay 2006 Tasmania, +186379, $23.95 retail.
4. Domaine Philippe Colim Chassage-Montrachet 2007, +187617, $42.95.
5. Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Napa, +222877, $79.95 retail.
6. Shafer Vineyards Merlot 2007 Napa, +356262, $59.95 retail.
7. Domaine Poulleau Pere et Fils Les Mondes Rondes 2007 Cote de Beaune,
+69518, $23.95.
8. Domaine de la Cote de l'Ange Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2007, +74856,
$37.95.
9. Poggio Bonelli Chianti Classico Riserva 2006, +180067, $28.95.
10. Giuseppe Quintarelli Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2001, +986117,
$84.95 retail.
11. Medrano Irazu Gran Reserva 2001 Rioja, +182493, $27.95 retail.
 
 

Tuesday, September 28, 2010

Sept 3, 2010: A Tasting with Ann Sperling (Sperling wines, Southbrook)

 The Time and Date: Friday, September 3, 2010  Noon1:30 PM

The Event: a tasting with Ann Sperling (Sperling Vineyards in BC, Southbrook Winery in ON)

The Venue: LCBO Scrivener Square

The Target Audience: wine writers' circle of Canada.

The Availability/Catalogue: Calibrium reps the Sperling wines, Southbrook wines come from the winery and other Ontario sources.

The Quote/Background: Ann Sperling has crafted wines from her family's vineyards in BC Okanagan. Her Old Vines Riesling comes from grapes planted in 1978. The estate is converting to organic. Small lots only.

The Wines:

 

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Sperling Vineyards Gewurztraminer 2009 VQA, $25 (99 cases)

-Sperling Vineyards Old Vines Foch 2008 VQA, $26 (99 cases)

-Southbrook Vineyards Triomphe Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 VQA, $23.95 (860 cases)

-Southbrook Vineyards Poetica Cabernet Merlot 2007 VQA, $60 (1044 cases)

 

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (8890 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Sperling Vineyards Old Vines Riesling 2008 VQA, $29 (95 cases)

-Sperling Vineyards The Market White 2009 VQA, $16 (321 cases) – aromatic blend

-Southbrook Vineyards Whimsy! Chardonnay 2008 VQA, $29.95 (117 cases)

-Southbrook Vineyards Whimsy! Cabernet Franc 2007 VQA, $34.95 (152 cases)

-Southbrook Vineyards Whimsy! Cabernet Sauvignon Lot 19 2007 VQA, $34.95 (115 cases)

 

*** Three Stars (8587 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Sperling Vineyards Pinot Gris 2009, $19 (125 cases)

 

The Contact Person: sdarby@rogers.com

The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 85.

 
 
 

Monday, September 27, 2010

Sept 23/10: Argentine Month at Delta Hotels in Ontario

The Time and Date: Thursday, September 23, 2010  5Pm to 8PM

The Event: launch of the Argentine food and wine festival at the 13 venue Delta Hotel chain in Ontario.

The Venue: Delta Chelsea Inn

The Target Audience: wine media and selected guests

The Availability/Catalogue: most of the wines tasted are available in Ontario, and they will be featured at the festival which runs through October.

The Quote/Background: the food was prepared by (or supervised by) Natalia Machado who has chefed Argentine food in New York city.

The Wines and Foods:

 

I could not do the wines justice since there were foods, darkness, and a party walk-round atmosphere. But I do recognize some greatness that stands out in a crowd.

 

It was a walk around affair, with four food stations and five wine stations. We were served a Norton Cosecha Especial Extra Brut sparkler (all chardonnay), $18.95, on arrival, followed by a seafood table with scallop seviche and salmon en croute. There was a Humberto Canale Black River Torrontes 2009 (Lifford) followed by Septima Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Mendoza (+167262, $13.95 Vintages), the latter a real bargain for the price. Later, there was a Finca Flichman Misterio Malbec-Shiraz Rose 2009 ($8 LCBO) and a Marcus James Malbec 2009. With them, we could eat sausage with hot spicy sauce and onions, and/or a beef loin sandwich.

 

The other side of the room was way more interesting, with an engaging tea-smoked trout and lamb loin with white polenta and tomato concasse (although cherry tomatoes were also used for sizing). Both dishes were dynamite, and best with the next wines: a Broquet Chardonnay 2008 ($15.95, Vintages, almost sold out) and a series of Norton wines, such as the Norton Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 and the Norton Malbec 2007, both $18.95. Some of the wine writers begged Elayne Bassett, sommelier at Delta Chelsea and chief orchestrator of the night, to open a display bottle of the Norton Privada 2007, a $30 blend of malbec, merlot and cabernet sauvignon. Although not quite ready, it was the wine of the night.

 

We alternated between the Norton wines and the Broquet, and between the trout and lamb – bookended by the enormously satisfying foods created by Natalia Machado. She made two kinds of mini-empanadas (beef and banana based) to wedge in a corn husk boat with corn purees and braised beef short-ribs. The kind that melt in your mouth. Other wines on this side of nthe room were the newly listed Catena Tilia Malbec 2009 and Cabernet Sauvignon 2009. Jason Nykor of The Grape showed his wines from Familia Schroeder's Saurus in Patagonia. He alone manned his table all night, constantly pouring and re-pouring Saurus wines (Pinot Noir 2008, +55442, $17.95 Vintages; Malbec 2006, +55459, $15.95 Vintages; Merlot 2008, +167031 Vintages, $13.95; and Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, +61986, $15.95). It was a toss up for me between the Merlot and the Cab, and the Cab won. Nice wines for a party.

 

And party there was – after the speeches, tango dancing!! With real live dancers and live music.

 

The Downside: I thought that the rose should have been on the table by the seafood, and by the beef sandwich.

The Upside: food was excellent and well-spiced with flavours.

The Contact Person: tford@deltahotels.com or monica.ralphs@winespeak.ca

The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 92.

 

 
Dean Tudor, Ryerson University Journalism Professor Emeritus
Treasurer, Wine Writers' Circle of Canada
Look it up and you'll remember it; screw it up and you'll never forget it.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com

Saturday, September 25, 2010

THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS (Sept 2010) ...

...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback
reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher
a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will
reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will
rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text
while keeping the focus tight. Here are some recent "re-editions"...
 

14. IN THE SWEET KITCHEN; the definitive baker's companion (Random
House Canada, 2000 and 2010, 692 pages, ISBN 978-0-307-35934-6, $35 CAD
soft covers) is mainly a reissue from 2000. The only item copyrighted
2010 is the author's (Regan Daley) short preface. Her bibliography only
goes up to 1997 or so. As a winner of the 2001 IACP Cookbook of the
Year Award, it is good to have this book back in print as a reissue.
The publisher summarizes it best: "a guide to ingredients &b techniques
with more than 150 simple and seductive recipes". The first 368 pages
are a primer, and deal with the tools, techniques and 700 ingredients.
The next 300 contain the recipes: cakes, pies, tarts, cookies,
custards, mousses, frozen desserts, breads, garnishes and sauces.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there are many metric tables of equivalents. If you don't already
have it (or your current copy is worn out), it is an affordable book if
purchased online. But I do really wish that some updating and new
recipes could have been added. After all, she does say in her 2010
preface "In the years since In the Sweet Kitchen first appeared, the
landscape of food in North America has changed dramatically." Whatever
changes there are, they may not be reflected in her book. The only
conclusion I can reach is that she was way ahead of her time.
Quality/Price rating: 86.
 
 
 
15. SUPERVISION IN THE HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY; leading human resources.
Sixth edition (John Wiley & Sons, 2010, 496 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-
07783-2, hard covers) is by John R. Walker (hospitality professor at
the University of South Florida) and the late Jack E. Miller. It was
originally published in 1985 and last revised in 2007. It's now a
standard text in hospitality management courses. As the publisher says,
"This book – practical, concrete, and results oriented – is a down-to-
earth guide to applying the wisdom of leadership theory and experience
to the hard realities of the hospitality industry. It's meant for the
student, but anyone who supervises in the industry can profit from
reading it. The sixth edition has been restructured, revised, and
updated: more diversity initiatives, more on recruitment and retention,
more on coaching and life skills, an update on safety and health,
conflict resolution, new and different profiles of companies and
people, new stuff on benefits and compensation. Exercises for students
include quizzes, self-assessments, simulations, case studies, role
play, and journal writing. But some of the black and white pictures
(laid out in sepia) look old and tired, and dark. Quality/Price rating:
85.
 
16. THE ACID ALKALINE BALANCE DIET; an innovative program that
detoxifies your body's acidic waste to prevent disease and restore
overall health. Revised edition (McGraw-Hill, 2010, 242 pages, ISBN
978-0-07-170337-6 $16.95 US soft covers) is by Felicia Drury Kliment, a
nutritionist and alternative health consultant. It was originally
published in 2002, and has been reissued as revised to take into
account new research about heavy metal foods and acid alkaline balance
(such as chelators that move metals from the bones to the brain where
they are more destructive), warnings on potentially harmful effects of
some nutritional supplements, and new alternative treatments for
various health conditions caused by the body's production of acidic
waste. There are no recipes here, but of course there are lists of
foods that are best to be consumed if you have any one of several
problems (cancer, alcoholism, cardiovascular disease, autoimmune
disorders, and food allergies). Clear the body of acidic wastes and
make the pH balance work for specific ailments (digestion, obesity,
thyroid, kidney, lung, bone, eye, diabetes, prostate, etc.). Simply
put, when acidic wastes from processed foods accumulate in the body,
they cause organs to malfunction. The body needs to detoxify. She shows
how to balance the body's acid-alkaline to detoxify toxins based on
metabolic type. Based on Eastern medicinal practices, The Acid-Alkaline
Balance Diet advocates a sensible food-combination program in
conjunction with herbal medicine therapies to balance the positively
charged acidic particles in the body with the negatively charged
particles. Organized by medical condition, this book makes it easy to
quickly find help and advice. Quality/Price rating: 87.
 
 

Tuesday, September 21, 2010

Recent Food and Drink Books, Summer 2010

RIPE FROM AROUND HERE; a vegan guide to local and sustainable eating
(no matter where you live) (Arsenal Pulp Press, 2010, 264 pages, ISBN
978-1-55152-254-8 $23.95US soft covers) is by Jae Steele, a registered
holistic nutritionist in Toronto. Her first book was Get It Ripe
(2008); her vegan blog is at domesticaffair.ca. Still, there was a need
for log rolling from Deborah Madison, Wayne Roberts, and J.B. MacKinnon
(The 100-Mile Diet). The intent of the book is to get you to eat food
in season, food that is local and organic, and food that is good for
you as a vegan. In other words, SLO food (not really the Slow Food
Movement food, but part of it) for vegan locavores. She preps the
reader through the first 75 pages with primer data on healthy
nutritional food, the importance of staying local, being sustainable,
and what one can do through container growing, composting, preserving
during summer, and the like. Recipes run from drinks to breakfasts,
muffins and breads, dips and spreads, salads, sauces, soups, entrees,
and desserts. Good food all round. Preparations have their ingredients
listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no metric table of
equivalents. Each recipe has indication if the prep is gluten-free,
soy-free, nightshade–free, and/or raw. At the back of the book, there
are seasonal menu ideas centered around different themes (and with page
references to the dishes). This is followed by a good resource list of
books, articles and videos.
Audience and level of use: locavores, vegans and vegetarians.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: hemp milk; mushroom and
spinach salad; springtime tabouleh; asparagus and spring onion quiche;
apple spice pancakes; and an apple cinnamon buckwheat raw granola.
The downside to this book: I found the typeface too light after a time.
The upside to this book: page references to the dishes cited on the
menus.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.
 
 
 
4. PORCH PARTIES; cocktail recipes and easy ideas for outdoor
entertaining (Chronicle Books, 2009, 144 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-6580-7,
$16.95 US, hard covers) is by Denise Gee, who has written articles and
books on cocktails and foods. Even so, the book needed some log rolling
endorsements. It's a good guide to outdoor entertaining, whether on a
porch (as in the American South), or deck, patio, backyard, stoop, and
the like. All you need is a fun, frilly cocktail with lowish alcohol,
and some good finger food for handheld snacks. There's a chapter on
planning (but it should not be too decorative), followed by some 50 or
so cocktails and punches. Try watermelon cooler, blackberry smash, ruby
sangria, or Bellini. Little bites of food include crumbles, dips,
puffs, cheeses, crostini, and more. There's a source list and an index.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there is also a metric table of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: cautious entertainers.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: cherry tomatoes with
jalapeno-pimento cheese; Greek crostini; baby crab cakes; cucumber
smoked salmon sandwiches; fig and walnut brie.
The downside to this book: a bit short, it could have been longer.
The upside to this book: good ideas and themes.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.
 
 
 

5. QUESADILLAS (Gibbs Smith, 2010, 128 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-0503-4,
$14.99 hard covers) is by Donna Kelly, who has written several single
product cookbooks on tortilla, tofu, and canned soup. Here she has
several dozen ideas for quesadillas, the melted cheese wonder
sandwiched inside crispy tortillas. So there is food here from around
the world, to stuff into mainly flour tortillas. There's a vegetarian
section and one for desserts, as well as a collection of zippy sauces
and salsas. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois
measurements, but there is also a metric table of equivalents. All of
this is easy to do with a microwave.
Audience and level of use: kids, home cooks, snackers.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: these are mostly variations,
such as BLT quesadillas, pizza style, crab cake style, chicken Caesar,
Old world Mexico with potatoes and chorizo.
The downside to this book: I wish she had some corn tortilla quesadilla
recipes – I can make my own, but she needed to have some starters.
The upside to this book: good variations on grilled cheese sandwiches.
Quality/Price Rating: 85.
 
 
 
6. FAST, FRESH & GREEN; more than 90 delicious recipes for veggie
lovers (Chronicle Books, 2010, 224 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-6566-1,
$24.95 US paper covers) is by Susie Middleton, former editor of Fine
Cooking, now writing about vegetables for that magazine. She
concentrates here on quick methods, such as pre- or quick-braising,
short sautéing, stir-frying, and quick roasting. Some preps have meat
in them such as pancetta, but just over 60 recipes here are all veggie.
She encourages substitution of vegetables. The book is arranged by
eight cooking techniques (raw is also an option) including gratins.
There's primer material on shopping and storage. The pantry is another
chapter with all those oils and vinegars, condiments and aromatics,
herbs and spices, dried fruits and nuts, and some meats in the freezer
such as bacon. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both
metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there are no tables of
equivalents.
Audience and level of use: home cooks
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: spinach with shallots and
Parmigiano; mahogany mushrooms; tomato, peach and herb gazpacho salad;
sautéed broccoli with garlic and thyme; cider-braised baby bok choy and
golden apples.
The downside to this book: these are not all veggie preps, which could
be confusing to some readers.
The upside to this book: yummy looking photos.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.
 

7. BOOZE CAKES; confections spiked with spirits, wine and beer (Quirk
Books, 2010; distr. Raincoast, 143 pages, ISBN 978-1-59474-423-5,
$16.95 US soft covers) is by Krystina Castella and Terry Lee Stone,
both designers. The former has written other sweet books on cupcakes
and popsicles. These are preps for cakes that have had alcohol added
after baking, although there are a few with alcohol added to the
batter. She has charts on how much alcohol is retained after backing.
There's four sections – classics that traditionally have alcohol in
them (bourbon buttercream, honey-spice beer cake); cocktail cakes with
cocktails added to the cakes; cake shots with one-bite cakes such as
brownies, or tea cakes; and "cakes with a twist" which are simply
popular recipes spiked with alcohol. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there a metric
table of equivalents. The authors use symbols to indicate the type of
cake, the number of servings, the baking time, and the occasion
(casual, entertaining, formal, etc.). At the back, there are sections
on making your own liqueurs and making different buttercreams and
frostings.
Audience and level of use: home cooks.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: wine-tasting cakes (merlot,
rose, blackberry); rum and coke whoopie pies; pumpkin martini cakes;
ginger cake with rum sauce; rosemary limoncello cake; tipsy tiramisu.
The downside to this book: NO INDEX
The upside to this book: appetizing photos.
Quality/Price Rating: 84.
 

8. THE WINEMAKER COOKS; menus, parties and pairings (Chronicle Books,
2010, 240 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-6934-8, $35 US hard covers) is by
Christine Hanna, a food writer-teacher who is also president of Hanna
Winery & Vineyards in Sonoma. Technically, while Hanna is the manager,
it is Jeff Hinchcliffe who is the winemaker (at the time of writing).
Hanna takes her position as marketer and entertainer seriously; she's a
ferocious cook. Her book, arranged by seasons, has 20 menus, most four
to six courses each.  Preparations have their ingredients listed in
both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of
equivalents. Wines are used in many of the recipes, and there are
suggestions for types of wines to pair with the dishes. These wines are
generic, such as her suggesting a Sonoma Pinot Noir or a
Gewurztraminer. As wine and cheese have a natural affinity, there are
21 preps (over one-fifth of the book) involving cheese. Some menu
themes include a grillside lunch, an Eastern Mediterranean feast, an
ocean-harvest dinner, and a springtime brunch.
Audience and level of use: followers of winemakers and wineries.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: Fall Dinner - spicy eggplant
caviar with pita chips; fall lettuces with pear and pecorino; pan-
seared hanger steak with porcini-merlot reduction; roasted potatoes and
shallots with herbed aioli; pear tarte tatin with ginger ice cream.
The downside to this book: the index is in teeny tiny print, yet there
is leftover blank space on the pages.
The upside to this book: good, clean layout is a plus
Quality/Price Rating: 87.
 
 
 
9. THE ART OF WOOD FIRED COOKING (Gibbs Smith, 2010, 192 pages, ISBN
978-1-4236-0653-6, $19.99 US paper covers) is by Andrea Mugnaini who
also imports wood fired pizza ovens. And, of course, she teaches wood
fired cooking; she's had over 20 years experience in such cooking. The
thrust of the book is Italian via the wood fired oven. Desserts seem to
be particularly good if you use fresh fruit: the high heat caramelizes
the sugars in the fruit. Recipes are meant for this oven, but
occasionally she mentions use of a roasting oven or some other lower
temperature environment (e.g., biscotti di prato) that can be cooked in
a conventional oven. But otherwise, this is strictly a one purpose
book. Beyond the pizza, calzone and flatbread sections, she has preps
for a whole meal, from apps to desserts. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is a metric
table of equivalents.
Audience and level of use: Italian food lovers, wood fired pizza oven
lovers, restaurants.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: I did not try any recipes
from this book as I do not have access to proper equipment.
Nevertheless, some preps look pretty good: roasted figs with fromage
blanc and grated chocolate; lasagna with tomato sauce and sheep's milk
ricotta; wood-roasted side of salmon; chicken cutlets with cherry
tomatoes and basil; porchetta; saltimbocca.
The downside to this book: there's a lot of material about her school,
and undoubtedly, the book will be vended to her students.
The upside to this book: a single product book that is extremely
useful.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.
 

10. CHEESE; exploring taste and tradition (Gibbs Smith, 2010, 304
pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-0651-2, $35 US hard covers) is by Patricia
Michelson, owner of La Fromagerie, a well-known cheese shop in England.
Indeed, this book has been published in England at the same time. And
there is log rolling from none other than Nigella Lawson herself. The
arrangement is by country. Normally, in cheese books, the first country
is France. But since this is a book of British origin, the United
Kingdom comes first, subdivided by regions. Each country has some
special cheeses highlighted. Thus, for France, there is a separate
discussion on Mimolette, Papillon, Roquefort Carles, Cantal, and ten
others. In this book, cheeses come from Europe and North America, with
just a few pages for Australia and New Zealand. Unfortunately, one of
the finest blue cheeses in the world (King Island's Roaring Forties)
was not included in the Australian section. For Canada, 18 cheeses from
six producers are highlighted: two from the Maritimes, two from PQ, one
from Ontario and another from BC, along with relevant photos showing
the cheese. Production methods are listed, as well as tasting notes.
One of my faves is here: Dragon's Breath Blue. There's the usual primer
info on cheese and cheese making, as well as generous notes on cutting
cheeses and accessorizing a platter. Several different kinds of
platters are shown. Drinks and cheeses are paired off. And there is a
small recipe section on cooking with cheese, making your own flavoured
cheeses, and some light meals and sandwiches. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but
there is no table of equivalents. At the end, there is a directory of
cheeses covered in the text, and this listing includes some eight
cheeses from "the rest of the world".
Audience and level of use: beginning cheese lovers.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: "The reason why the baby
calf fourth stomach lining is used for rennet is because the animal has
to be suckling from its mother to obtain the right high acidity level
in the fourth stomach".
The downside to this book: there is no index to the recipes.
The upside to this book: a nice introduction to the world of cheeses,
with a package of recipes, appreciation, and pictures.
Quality/Price Rating: 85.
 
 
 

Monday, September 20, 2010

FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH!

 
 EDIBLE; a celebration of local foods (John Wiley & Co., 2010, 324
pages, $29.95 US hard covers) has been pulled together Tracey Ryder and
Carole Topalian, cofounders of Edible Communities Publications. It's a
combo cookbook and sustainable living guide, with all sorts of material
about local farms scattered throughout North America. Edible
Communities are a series of 60 magazines published in most of the large
urban centres. Two are in Canada (Edible Toronto and Edible Vancouver).
All are freely available via the web site www.ediblecommunities.com. So
this book has gathered "stories" from six American regions (the two
Canadian mags are in Northeast and Pacific Northwest). The stories
concern locals such as Ahiwenzie's Fish & More, a family business
fishing in Georgian Bay (Edible Toronto) or Joe S. Sausage from
Albuquerque (Edible Santa Fe) who regular wins awards for his red hots.
You cannot get much local than this. The 74 recipes come next, and they
are divided by season beginning with spring. At the back, there is a
recipe index by region, a listing of all 60 Edibles, and a general
index.
Audience and level of use: those foodies curious about local farmers
and businesses around the continent.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: glazed lamb chops (Edible
Hawaiian Islands); linguine with clams (Edible Seattle); strawberry
shortcakes (Edible Ojai); harvest cake with cider-cinnamon frosting
(Edible Rhody); braised pomegranate chicken with walnuts (Edible East
Bay); egg noodles with fresh spring veggies (Edible Portland OR).
The downside to this book: Preparations have their ingredients listed
in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no metric table of
equivalents.
The upside to this book: good looking photos of people and products,
all in colour on matte paper (so the book does not weigh a ton).
Quality/Price Rating: 90.
 
 
 

Saturday, September 18, 2010

Some New Wines Tasted in August 2010

SOME NEW PRODUCTS TASTED August 2010

 

1. MontGras Reserva Carmenere 2009 Colchagua Valley, +178624 General List, $11.95: nifty price for the earthy, herby red wine, with just enough complexity to make you think. Mocha tones and a soft finish. Half a year in oak, mostly French, half of it new. 14.3% ABF and a twist top.

 

2. F.W. Langguth Black Slate Riesling 2009 Mosel, +176917, $10.95: released in time for summer parties. Twist top, 11.5% ABV. Expect apples, limes, just barely off-dry mode finish.

 

3. Grand Sud Merlot 2008 Vin de Pays D'Oc, +171314, $9.95 for 1000 mL. Jammy red fruit, short finish, medium body. But a qualified quaffer at this price. 13% ABV, but no twist top.

 

4. From Diamond Estates there is a new series FRESH, made in the tradition of Birchwood Estate Wines. Said Tom Green the winemaker: "Many of the grapes we are using for these wines come from the same vineyards that we have used for years to make Birchwood products." All are VQA Ontario, from the larger designation. It is already listed in Ontario, Saskatchewan and Manitoba. The line will be officially launched during Ontario Wine month (September 2010) at $11.95 each. To date, there are two reds (Merlot Syrah VQA 2008, merlot75/syrah25, +192609, with black fruit, aged in oak for 5 months; and Cabernet Gamay VQA 2008, 52gamay/25cabfranc/23cabsauvignon, +192617, with red fruit and mocha and five months in oak). There are two whites (Sauvignon Blanc Chardonnay VQA 2008, 60sauvignon blanc/40chardonnay, +192625, with limes, gooseberries, orchard fruit, and five months oak for the chardonnay; and Gewurztraminer Riesling VQA 2008, 47gewurztraminer/46riesling/7kerner, +572156, with stone fruit tropicality and spices, no oak). The Rose VQA 2008 is 55riesling/25sauvignonblanc/20gamay, +192633, with red fruit and citrus tones. I found the reds engaging, and the whites and rose were undoubtedly put through the mechanical cold stabilization device that Diamond bought some years back for absolute freshness. They are all to be consumed soon after purchase.

 

5. Domaine Les Yeuses Les Epices Syrah 2007 Vins de Pays d'Oc, +177584, $12.95:  value-priced, great 100% syrah hit of pepper, smoked meat, black fruit. 13.5% ABV. Worth every penny, a gem at this price, in the top 100 at the London Wine Fair.

 

6. Cave de Roquebrun Roches Noires Maceration 2007 Saint-Chinian-Roquebrun, +177519, $17.95:  black fruit, red berries, and minerals, some prevalent mocha tones, 60% syrah, 20% Grenache, 20% mourvedre, all old vines. 13.5% ABV. Lots of gold medals. Wine of the Month at Vintages, July 24, 2010.

 

7. Domaine Lou Moural Collection Reservee Minervois 2007 +175190, $12.95: lively light Grenache flavours of cherries and plums, with some syrah component. 45% syrah, 50 % Grenache, 5% carignan. Red fruit all the way, 13.5% ABV. BBQ wine.

 

8. Domaine des Aires Hautes Minervois La Liviniere 2007, +017137, $19.95: black and spicy, lots of flavour and flavours, but also a hot wine with 15.5% ABV. 45% syrah, 40% Grenache, 15% carignan.

 

9. Domaine J. Laurens Le Moulin Brut Blanquette de Limoux Midi, +180323, $16.95: a new entry in the "Methode Traditionnelle" sparkling sweepstakes in Ontario. 12% ABV, older vines, at least 90% local mauzac grapes but with some estate-grown chardonnay and/or pinot noir, dry mode, great for summer. Persistent mousse.

 
 
 

Tuesday, September 14, 2010

Sept 18/10 LCBO Vintages Release Tasting Notes

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR SEPT 18, 2010
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net Compendium" is a guide to
thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers
and spirits, at www.deantudor.com since 1995. My tastings are based on
MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price
Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE:
The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine
writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not available for re-
tasting.
 
TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Henry of Pelham Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2007 VQA Niagara
Escarpment: terrific balance of fruit and wood, vanilla, spices. Puts
the plank back into salmon, etc. +268342, $19.95, QPR: 90.
2. Tawse Sketches of Niagara Chardonnay 2008 VQA Niagara Peninsula: a
smart wine with lots of fruit and longer length. +89037, $19.95, QPR:
90.
3. Chateau des Charmes Old Vines Riesling 2007 VQA NOTL: very
successful Alsatian style, loaded with concentration. +277228, $16.95,
QPR: 90.
4. Alamos Chardonnay 2009 Mendoza: useful and youthful, hits all the
right buttons. +801571, $13.95, QPR: 89.
5. Chateau du Juge Blanc 2008 Bordeaux: lovely MVC of sauvignon blanc
and Semillon, balance. +171082, $15.95, QPR: 90.
 
TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Vinecol Organic Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Mendoza: MVC consistency,
off-dry finish, plumy but red fruit. +167270, $13.95, QPR: 89.
2. Ringbolt Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Margaret River: excellent fruit
set, lovely persistent finish. It engaged me. +606624, $19.95, QPR: 90.
3. The Ruins Syrah/Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 WO Robertson SA: anoher
organic wine winner, good hit of Rhone Syrah here. Twist top. 14.8%
ABV. +18739, $14.95, QPR: 91.
4. Bod. Corral Don Jacobo Crianza 2005 Rioja: nicely aged, rich and
raisiny, plumy and pruney too. Delightful MVC Rioja. +937714, $13.95,
QPR: 91.
 
VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.
 
1. Le Clos Jordanne Talon Ridge Vineyard Chardonnay 2008 VQA, +143974,
$37 retail.
2. Cave Spring CSV Cave Spring Vineyard Riesling 2008 VQA, +566026,
$29.95 retail.
3. Landmark Overlook Chardonnay 2008 Sonoma, +356501, $32.95 retail.
4. Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Karia Chardonnay 2007 Napa, +54585, $37.95.
5. Buoncristiani O.P.C. 2006 Napa, +196063, $47.95.
6. Ferrari-Carano Tresor 2006 Sonoma, +928150, $59.95.
7. Robert Sinskey Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Vandal Vineyard Napa,
+196048, $39.95.
8. Dom. Jean-Marc Brocard Cote de Lechet Chablis 1er Cru 2008, +181305,
$26.95,
9. Chateau Barateau 2005 Haut-Medoc, +170282, $23.95
10. Antinori Castello Della Sala Bramito Del Cervo Chardonnay 2009
Umbria, +176792, $21.95.
11. San Biagio Montersino Barbaresco 2006, +181370, $34.95.
12. Banfi Brunello di Montalcino 2004, +378257, $59.95.
13. San Fabiano Calcinaia Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Toscana IGT, +181420,
$22.95.
14. Descendientes de J. Palacios Petalos 2008 Bierzo Spain, +675207,
$21.95.
 
 

Monday, September 13, 2010

COOKBOOKS: THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...

 
...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback
reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher
a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will
reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will
rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text
while keeping the focus tight. Here are some recent "re-editions"...
 
 
 
11. EVERYDAY EASY CHEAP EATS: casseroles – stir-fries – savory tarts –
sweet treats (DK Books, 2010, 224 pages, ISBN 978-0-7566-6192-2, $20US
hard covers) is "based on content previously published in The
Illustrated Kitchen Bible (2008) and The Illustrated Quick Cook
(2009)". Both of these books got high recommendations from me, and they
contained the primer data and about 1500 recipes. Here, there are 90
recipes specifically concerned with lower cost foods, as indicated in
the subtitle. Techniques pages cover the "how to" slice and peel, line,
make stocks, etc. There are five themed recipe planners (healthy,
vegetarian, quick, et al). Of course you may need three things that not
everyone has: a larder-pantry, a mise-en-place, and food prepared in
advance. There are lots of photos, tips on service and sides, plus
indications of prep times. I also like the large typeface. Preparations
have their ingredients listed in both avoirdupois and metric
measurements, and there are table of equivalents on the inside cover,
both front and back. Basics include beef and tomato lasagna, patatas
bravas, feta and pumpkin pastries, and lemon and sugar crepes. A good
starter book, ideal too for students and singles. Quality/Price rating:
90 (and it would be better value if it were a paperback and presumably
cheaper).
 

12. EVERYDAY EASY 30-MINUTE DINNERS: quick assembly – fresh and light
from the pantry. (DK Books, 2010, 224 pages, ISBN 978-0-7566-6189-2,
$20US hard covers) is "based on content previously published in The
Illustrated Kitchen Bible (2008) and The Illustrated Quick Cook
(2009)". Both of these books got high recommendations from me when I
first reviewed them, and they contained the primer data and about 1500
recipes. Here, there are 90 recipes specifically concerned with quick
preparations, as indicated in the subtitle. Techniques pages cover the
"how to" slice and peel, steam rice, make stocks, etc. There are six
themed recipe planners (healthy, one-pot, vegetarian, budget, et al).
Of course you may need three things that not everyone has: a larder-
pantry, a mise-en-place, and food prepared in advance. There are lots
of photos, tips on service and sides, plus indications of prep times. I
also like the large typeface. Preparations have their ingredients
listed in both avoirdupois and metric measurements, and there are table
of equivalents on the inside cover, both front and back. Basics include
berries with citrus syrup, tomato bulgur wheat with capers and olives,
kasha pilaf, waldorf salad, bean burgers. A good starter book, ideal
too for students and harried workers. Quality/Price rating: 90 (and it
would be better value if it were a paperback and presumably cheaper).
 
 
 
 
 
13. SUSHI; taste and technique (DK Books, 2010, 256 pages, 256 pages,
ISBN 978-0-7566-6424-4, $14.95US paper covers) is by Kimiko Barber and
Hiroki Takemura, who both work in cooking schools and restaurants in
London. It was originally published in 2002, and this is the paperback
reprint. The basics are covered: scattered, stuffed, pressed, rolled,
hand-formed sushi, with vegetarian and fusion options. I am not sure
how well the book is needed now, since there is proliferation of sushi
places all over the world, and many deal with take out. But if you are
in a rural area and the seafood is freshly caught, then you'll want to
have this book to do it all at home. It is easy enough, especially with
the large typeface. Try omelette parcels, seared duck breast, shrimp,
mackerel, and the like. Great pix of techniques. Preparations have
their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements,
but there is no metric table of equivalents. A glossary is also
presented. Quality/Price rating: 88.
 

14. GRILL IT! Recipes, techniques, tools. (DK Books, 2010, 336 pages,
ISBN 978-0-7566-6548-7, $18.95US paper covers) is by Chris Schlesinger
(chef-owner of East Coast Grill in Cambridge MA and Beard Award winner)
and John Willoughby (last editor of Gourmet). They have written nine
cookbooks together. It was originally published in hard covers in 2008
as "Barbecue", and this is its paper back reprint. Schlesinger, of
course, owns a grill restaurant, so he is committed to the procedure.
Topics are arranged by meat, with steaks and chops and ribs first up,
followed by seafood, poultry, veggies, etc. There are also chapters on
sides and salads, snacks, sweets, and the like. Large typeface is a
boon, although endless pictures of grill marks and charred bits can
fatigue after awhile. There's a good discussion on techniques and
sauces. Try Latin-style grilled pork chops, Asian-flavored grilled baby
back ribs, double-thick tuna steaks, or smoke-roasted chicken thighs.
Preparations have their weight ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no metric table of equivalents.
Quality/Price rating: 87.
 

15. GEMS OF GLUTEN-FREE BAKING; breads and irresistible treats everyone
can enjoy (Whitecap Books, 2010, 200 pages, ISBN 978-1-77050-018-1,
$29.95 Canadian, paper covers) is by Wendy Turnbull, who has been
gluten-free for thirty years (see glutenfreegems.com). She was appalled
at the white rice flour and tapioca starch she had to use. She began
experimenting with whole-grain gluten-free flours, and came up with
GEMS flour which you can make yourself (it is not a brand name). It is
comprised of brown rice flour, white sorghum flour, flour from
amaranth, light buckwheat, gluten-free oat, teff, plus chickpea,
millet, soy, quinoa, and white/red/black bean. Her book was originally
published in 2008 by a local Calgary publisher, and here it has been
updated and given wider circulation. There's a couple of dozen pages on
the flour and the basics of a gluten-free diet. The rest of the book is
divided into breads, muffins, cookies, and desserts (cakes, pies,
squares). There are 120 preps here. But nothing is scaled: it is all
volume. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois
measurements, but there are metric table of equivalents. Try crispy
gingersnaps, Dad's cookies, hazelnut and cranberry biscotti, butter
tart squares, chocolate fudge brownies, granola bars, sour cream spice
cake, or sourdough bread. Quality/Price rating: 88.
 
 
 
16. A SLICE OF ORGANIC LIFE (DK Books, 2010, 352 pages, ISBN 978-0-
7566-6211-0, $19.95US paper covers) is by Sheherazade Goldsmith, a
writer who runs an organic farm in Devon, England. It was originally
published in 2007; this is the paperback reprint. The author is listed
as "editor-in-chief" which seems to imply that other people wrote the
material. But I don't see any writing references, although there are
many acknowledgements to photographers. The book is in three parts:
what you can do to be eco-friendly if you don't have a yard; what you
can do if you have a patio or a small yard; and what you can do if you
have a large yard or field or even community garden. Under the latter,
there are 33 activities, ranging from keeping some chickens (illegal in
Toronto), making simple preserves, nourishing the soil, to using up a
glut of tomatoes, planting a vine or simply creating a pond for
wildlife. There's about 90 activities in the book. At the very least
(with no yard), one can bake bread, check the label, make flavoured
oils and vinegars, and shop ethically. Commonsense will win out. This
is a very good book, with a few recipes (all indexed in italics).
Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. The
bibliography could use an update.
Quality/Price ratio: 89.
 
 
 
17. CURRY CUISINE; fragrant dishes from India, Thailand, Vietnam, and
Indonesia (DK Books, 2010, 352 pages, ISBN 978-0-7566-6207-3
$22.95 CAD soft covers) is a book package with nine authors, each one
responsible for a different country. It was originally published in
2006, and this is the paperback reprint. Sri Owen, a cookbook writer
for the past four decades, wrote the chapter on Myanmar and Maritime SE
Asia, while David Thompson (who wrote the award-winning book "Thai
Food" in 2002) covers, of course, Thailand. Eighteen regions in all are
included: (beyond the subtitle) Africa, Caribbean, Britain and
Japan, and all with kitchen memoirs by the authors, cooking methods,
and cook's notes of tips. This is a book about curry migration through
the world. The publisher also advises that "Every recipe in Curry
Cuisine is both authentic and user-friendly. Tried and tested by
experts using widely available ingredients, exquisite flavors and
successful results are guaranteed."  No weasel words there...180
recipes cover the key dishes, the sides and the accompaniments.
Unfortunately for us in Canada, the source list is all US and UK only.
The book concludes with a food glossary. Try katsu curry (pork or
chicken); shrimp balti; saraman (ginger beef curry); green curry of
coconut heart; chickpea pilaf; tamarind rice; or lamb with winter
vegetables and spinach. The volume measurements are in avoirdupois only
while the weight measurements are in both avoirdupois and metric
scales. Quality/Price Rating: 89.
 
 
 

18. THE PRACTICAL HOMESTEAD; the backyard handbook for growing food,
raising animals & nurturing your land (DK Books, 1998, 2010, 192 pages,
ISBN 978-0-7566-6213-4, $19.95 US paper covers) is by Paul Heiney,
currently a part-time farmer. It was originally published in 1998 as
"Country Life". It is an open-and-shut quick guide to creating a
sustainable life style via your own farm, getting back to the roots. A
small farm would suffice. Select food topics include: making cider,
churning butter, harvesting honey, growing grain, grinding flour,
selecting poultry, curing bacon, spinning wool, making cheese, canning,
winemaking, plus others. Each has a couple of pages loaded with advice
and photos and charts. Larger material deals with working the soil,
planning the year, making compost, sowing seeds, and restoring a pond.
It is pretty good stuff, with primer advice for the beginner. Nothing
much has changed in farm life in the past dozen years, so most of the
reprint still stands. Quality/Price rating: 86.
 
 
 
 

Sunday, September 12, 2010

Wine Council of Ontario Tour of Lake Erie North Shore wineries, part three of three

The Time and Date: Tuesday Aug 24 through Thursday Aug 26, 2010
The Event: Lake Erie North Shore and Pelee Area Wine Country FAM Tour
for Wine Writers' Circle of Canada and other media, courtesy of the
Wine Council of Ontario.
The Venue: Bus, host wineries, and the Windsor Hilton Hotel.
The Target Audience: WWCC members and other wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: we drank several wines that were not really
available anywhere except at the winery, as accompaniment to the
lunches and dinners that we had.
The Quote/Background: we were to taste wines and interview principals
to increase our understanding of the LENS and Pelee wine appellations
(microclimates) plus wine country experiences in the area. Many of the
new wineries host events such as weddings, team building, corporate
parties, and the like.
The Wines: some of the wines we had with food or at the last minute
were library wines – they were not available for sale but would, of
course, rank high. Muscedere Vineyards led the way with stunning
Meritage 2006, Pinot Noir 2006, Syrah 2007, and Cabernet Sauvignon
2007. Colio Estate Vineyards had Six Barrel Shiraz 2006 and Nine Barrel
Shiraz 2007. Mastronardi pulled several barrel samples, including
Merlot 2008 and Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, skedded for release in early
2011.
 

The Food: we began with lunch at Mastronardi. We had just tasted with
winemaker Lyse LeBlanc when the first course arrived from the caterer
(Philly's): a fabulous pan fried pickerel, freshly caught that morning.
Tried against their Brianje Riesling and Chardonnay BF. A tomato and
garden salad followed, that I had with a'Dorah sparkling. The heavies
arrived next: steak and mushroom with a cabernet sauvignon reduction.
And the palatschinke ended the meal (and us), along with the vibrant
Vidal Icewine. And Chardonnay BF IS my Best Friend in the wine world.
That night we got in an hour late, and delayed our meal at the Lebanese
restaurant Mazaar. There we had their usual parsley salads, hummus,
baba ghanoush, followed by platters of different meats on skewers
(chicken, beef, lamb -- each done three ways or more). There was only
one LENS wine on the list, Sprucewood Shores Riesling, so we ordered
four or more bottles and heartily consumed them. I waddled home before
the rest did.
 
Up bright and early the next day for the breakfast buffet at the
Hilton. No wines here, but average foods except for the bacon and the
smoked salmon. There was also a bran muffin that looked and tasted
densely like the real thing (with raisins). Lunch was at Sprucewood
Shores, catered through Countyconnect.ca in Kingsville. We had a local
salad, followed by a lamb shank on a bed of polenta with chopped
tomatoes, and ended with angel food cake and berries. We sipped at the
wines that had been tasted. The lamb shank was enormous but both Zoltan
Szabo and I managed to pick clean our respective bones. On to Pelee
Island Winery for a massive tasting with four other wineries and Pelee
Island Winery itself, followed by dinner at the PI Winery. We opened
with cold potato and red pepper soup which hit the spot with Pelee's
new sparkler, Secco Pelee Frizzante, made from pinot bianco, selling
for $15. It has just been released but to restaurants only. Nicely
creamy through cuvee close. Other wines came out, such as the
Chardonnay Barrique, a steal at $14. The next course was an inspired
simple farfalle pasta quickly followed by a tomato and bocconcini
salad. The fish course was a grilled radicchio stemmy leaves with
pickerel and perch cheeks. The main was a huge pork chop with a
rosemary sprig sticking up (very 90s-ish). Dessert was, I think, muesli
ice cream – or at least that's what it tasted like. A pile of sweeties
came out but I could not handle them.
 
Up bright but not early for checkout and more smoked salmon with bacon.
We drove forever, and those that missed breakfast picked at the cheese
platters at Smith and Wilson. We made a few wrong turns and ended up a
few hours late for lunch at M.E. and Suzies in Port Stanley. They have
an extensive wine selection featuring only VQA wines from LENS/PI. We
were started with a cold ale (Earl's Elgin County Auburn Ale) that goes
into their ale and cheddar soup (which was then served to us on the
windy patio). This was followed by a smoked trout salad (which chef
does himself) on Belgian endive boats. Out came more Pelee Island Secco
Pelee for a toast! Table wine was Pelee Island Gewurztraminer 2006
Reserve, very nicely aged. It was instructive to see how well it can
age. The three beet salad (red, golden, and a mix of yellow and red)
had plenty of microgreens from the surrounding area. Pelee Island
Semillon Sauvignon Blanc was a perfect accompaniment. Then came two
kinds of freshly caught perch: pan fried with no salt, while the other
perch was lightly battered. Both the Gewurztraminer and the Sem-Sauv
went very well here. A success with everybody! For dessert, a rich
maple syrup crème brulee and Pelee Island Vidal Icewine from 2004
(which I nailed as to its year). Then we waddled to the bus.
 
The Downside: overall, too much food.
The Upside: daily perch and pickerel!
The Contact Person: Magdalena@winesofontario.org
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 93.
 
 
 
 
 

Saturday, September 11, 2010

Wine Council of Ontario Tour of Lake Erie North Shore Wineries, part two of three

The Time and Date: Tuesday Aug 24 through Thursday Aug 26, 2010
The Event: Lake Erie North Shore and Pelee Area Wine Country FAM Tour
for Wine Writers' Circle of Canada and other media, courtesy of the
Wine Council of Ontario.
The Venue: Bus, host wineries, and the Windsor Hilton Hotel.
The Target Audience: WWCC members and other wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: these were fruit wines and fruit-based
wines that we tasted, along with an assortment of sweeties, available
for the most part only at the winery. See previous posting for table
wines, and later posting for food.
The Quote/Background: we were to taste wines and interview principals
to increase our understanding of the LENS and Pelee wine appellations
(microclimates) plus wine country experiences in the area. Many of the
new wineries host events such as weddings, team building, corporate
parties, and the like.
The Fruit and Sweet Wines: most came from Black Bear Farms, Kingsville
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Black Bear Farms Elderberry 2008, $18 375mL
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Colio Estate Vineyards Vidal Icewine 2007, $19.95 for 200mL.
-Black Bear Farms Bear's Reserve Black Raspberry 2007, $22 375mL
-Black Bear Farms Papa's Special Reserve Red and Purple Raspberry 2007,
$18 375mL
-Black Bear Farms Black Currant 2007, $18 375mL
-Black Bear Farms Golden Raspberry 2007, $18 375mL
-Black Bear Farms Peach 2008, $22 750mL
-Black Bear Farms Red Raspberry 2007, $16 375mL, $31 for 750mL
-Black Bear Farms Strawberry 2007, $13 375mL, or $25 for 750mL
-Smith and Wilson A Currant Affair 2004 [black currant] $17 375mL
-Smith and Wilson Pink Cadillac 2008 [sparkler with raspberry, cherry,
and vidal wine]  $18 750 mL
-Aleksander Estate Cassis NV, $17.50 375mL
-Pelee Island Vidal Icewine 2008, $24.85 200mL
-D'Angelo Vineyards Iced Foch Vidal 2008, $15 375mL – 51.5% Marechal
foch and 48.5% vidal
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Black Bear Farms Mama's Special Delight Blueberry 2007, $20 375mL
-Black Bear Farms Black Raspberry and Blueberry 2007, $18 375mL
-Black Bear Farms Golden Plum 2008, $18 375mL
-Black Bear Farms Red Gooseberry 2007, $20 375mL
-Black Bear Farms Purple Raspberry 2007, $18 375mL
-Black Bear Farms Red Raspberry and Purple Plum 2008, $22 375mL
-Black Bear Farms Strawberry 2008, $15 375mL, or $29 for 750mL
-Smith and Wilson Nightshade (Black Currant and white wine), $13
-Sprucewood Shores Estate Vidal Icewine 2007, $22.95 200 mL
-D'Angelo Vineyards Dolce Vita NV, $20 375mL – vidal icewine, fortified
to 20%
-Mastronardi Estate Sangria NV, $14.50 – 7% ABV, Baco noir with local
fruit juices.
 
The Contact Person: Magdalena@winesofontario.org
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 93.
 
 
 
 

Friday, September 10, 2010

Wine Council of Ontario Tour of Lake Erie North Shore wineries, part one of three

 The Time and Date: Tuesday Aug 24 through Thursday Aug 26, 2010
The Event: Lake Erie North Shore and Pelee Area Wine Country FAM Tour
for Wine Writers' Circle of Canada and other media, courtesy of the
Wine Council of Ontario.
The Venue: Bus, host wineries, and the Windsor Hilton Hotel.
The Target Audience: WWCC members and other wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: a few are at the LCBO, but most wines
tasted were only available at the winery. This is the FIRST of THREE
reports. All grape wines were VQA Ontario, LENS, or Pelee Island.
The Quote/Background: we were to taste wines and interview principals
to increase our understanding of the LENS and Pelee wine appellations
(microclimates) plus wine country experiences in the area. Many of the
new wineries host events such as weddings, team building, corporate
parties, and the like.
The Wines: we visited or tasted wines from 10 different wineries, from
the largest Pelee Island Winery (400K cases, over 64 different wines)
to Muscedere Vineyards (less than 2,000 cases, 10 different wines). The
following listings are my summaries; there were only a handful of wines
that failed to score 85 or more points.
 
**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Muscedere Vineyards Meritage 2008, $30 – 80 cases, 64%merlot,
22%cabernet sauvignon, 14%cabernet franc.
-Muscedere Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, $30 – 115 cases
-Colio CEV Twelve Barrel Shiraz 2008, $25 – summer 2011.
-Colio CEV Cabernet Franc Reserve 2005, $21 – retail stores
-Colio CEV Carlo Negri Signature Merlot Reserve 2002, $60 – retail
stores.
-Colio CEV Merlot Reserve 2005, $20 – retail stores
-Colio CEV Merlot Reserve 2008, $20 – early 2011 release
-D'Angelo Vineyards Old Vines Foch Reserve 2005, $20
-Mastronardi Estate a'Dorah Sparkling NV, $12.75 43%riesling, 28%pinot
gris, 29%chardonnay
-Mastronardi Estate Brianje Riesling 2008, $15
-Mastronardi Estate Barrel Fermented Chardonnay Reserve 2006, $16
-Pelee Island Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Petit Verdot 2007, $19.95
-Pelee Island Winery Chardonnay Barrique 2007 Pelee Island, $14
-Pelee Island Winery Pinot Gris Vendage Tardive 2008 Pelee Island,
$15.95
 
***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Muscedere Vidal Blanc 2009, $14
-Muscedere Pinot Noir 2008, $25
-Muscedere Syrah 2008, $40
-Colio CEV Reserve Chardonnay Barrel Aged 2009, $17.95 – retail stores
-Aleksander Estate Baco Noir 2009, $13.80
-Colchester Ridge Estate Meritage 2007, $20 - 41%cabernet sauvignon,
26% cabernet franc, 33% merlot
-Colchester Ridge Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, $18
-Colchester Ridge Estate Cabernet Franc 2007, $15
-D'Angelo Vineyards Cabernet Franc 2007, $11.99
-D'Angelo Vineyards Baco Noir 2007, $15
-Smith and Wilson Estate Lighthouse 2009, $14 – viognier and chardonnay
-Smith and Wilson Estate Smith's Vidal, $12
-Smith and Wilson Estate Riesling Sussreserve, $13
-Smith and Wilson Estate Raleigh Vines, $14 – cab-merlot
-Smith and Wilson Estate Double Barrel 2007, $15  – cab franc-merlot-
syrah
-Mastronardi Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, $18
-Mastronardi Estate Merlot 2007, $18
-Sprucewood Shores Estate Chardonnay 2008, $11.95
-Sprucewood Shores Estate Lady in Red 2007, $14.95 – cabernet
sauvignon/franc as 80/20
-Sprucewood Shores Estate Meritage 2007, $21.95 – 40%cab sauv/30%cab
franc/30%merlot
-Sprucewood Shores Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2007, $24.95
-Pelee Island Winery Lighthouse Cabernet Franc 2008, $11.95 +145441
-Pelee Island Winery Pinot Noir 2008, $12.95 +135939
-Pelee Island Winery Alvar Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2009, $12.95
-Pelee Island Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Pelee Island $24.95
-Pelee Island Winery Shiraz Reserve 2005 Pelee Island, $19.95
-Pelee Island Winery Shiraz Reserve 2007 Pelee Island, $19.95
-Pelee Island Winery Dry Riesling 2008, $10.95 +136028
 
*** Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Muscedere Rose 2009, $14
-Muscedere Cabernet Franc 2008, $16
-Colio CEV Lily Sparkling 2008, $15 (50% riesling x traminer, 50% pinot
noir)
-Colio CEV Cabernet Franc Reserve 2007, $21 – retail stores
-Aleksander Estate Pinot Noir 2008, $24.95
-Colchester Ridge Estate Chardonnay 2009, $13
-Colchester Ridge Estate Gewurztraminer 2009, $15
-D'Angelo Vineyards Blanc de Blanc 2007, $10 – 50% chardonnay, 50%
vidal
-Smith and Wilson Estate Vista del Lago 2009, $14
-Smith and Wilson Estate Ridge Rock Rose 2008, $12
-Smith and Wilson Estate Riesling Dry 2007, $12
-Smith and Wilson Estate Pinot Grigio 2009, $14
-Mastronardi Estate Pinot Grigio 2008, $12 – LCBO Winery to Market
program
-Sprucewood Shores Estate Pinot Gris 2009, $12.95
-Pelee Island Winery Blanc de Blanc Vidal-Riesling 2008, $9.95 +276170
-Pelee Island Winery Chardonnay Non-Oaked 2009, $10.95, +136044
-Pelee Island Winery ECO Trail Chardonnay-Auxerois 2008, $10.25 +591719
-Pelee Island Winery Monarch Vidal 2009, $10.25 +393405
-Pelee Island Winery Pinot Grigio 2009, $12.95 +326413
-Pelee Island Winery Dry Riesling 2009, $10.95 +136028
-Pelee Island Winery Cabernet Franc 2009, $11.45 +433714
-Pelee Island Winery Alvar Chardonnay Gewurztraminer 2009, $12.95
+198226
-Pelee Island Winery Cabernet Merlot "Stepping Up to the Plate" 2008,
$12.95 +435321
-Pelee Island Winery Alvar Pinot Noir 2008, $14.95 +458521
 
The Food: two of the wineries (Colio plus Smith and Wilson) offered us
cheeses and crackers.
The Downside: as always, it was getting on and off the bus, assembling,
and then departing.
The Upside: a great opportunity to taste wines not tasted before.
The Contact Person: Magdalena@winesofontario.org
The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 93.