WORLD WINE WATCH TOP WINES AT VINTAGES: under/over $20 for the FEBRUARY 17, 2024 release.
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at https://pages.pathcom.com/~dtudor since 1994. These notes for good wines available through LCBO Vintages (on a bi-weekly basis) can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca or at https://pages.pathcom.com/~dtudor No winery can buy their way into – or out of – this publication.
Scores are a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, e.g. a Southern Rhone would taste like a Southern Rhone) and QPR (Quality/Price Ratio value in the marketplace above or below its price).
I was one of the first to jump on the Robert Parker bandwagon, using numerical indications for scores. Why? Because with a database I could rate, rank and order wines in any fashion. It was just so convenient using databases. Unfortunately, the numerical system has been shown to be disgraced, so I am quitting any ranking by number. From now on, it will just be GOOD, BETTER and BEST, which will give me some wiggle room (e.g. is this wine an 87, 88, 89, or 90? Or all of them...depends on my mood and time of day). With the rigorous standards and lab testing by the LCBO, I can safely say that every single wine at the LCBO is at least GOOD, which I would numerically rank at 75-85 points. For reasons of time and space, I will NOT be listing GOOD wines. Just the BETTER (86-89) and BEST (90+ ) wines. This spread of points will probably relate to SILVER and GOLD medals, with BRONZE being "GOOD". Significantly, this also fits into my scheme for trade tastings (as noted below).
MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )
MAJOR THEME: France
Recommended Wines Under $20
======================
Fizz+16604 CELENE CUVÉE ROYALE ROSÉ CRÉMANT DE BORDEAUX $18.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
W+483891 ROCKWAY VINEYARDS UNOAKED CHARDONNAY 2022 VQA $20 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
W+224626 JOSEPH CATTIN GEWURZTRAMINER 2022 ALSACE $19.95 MVC/QPR: BEST(90+ )
W+25713 KOUROS ASSYRTIKO 2022 GREECE $14.95 MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )
W+36304 CANTINA SAN PAOLO FIANO 2022 CAMPANIA $16.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+36846 TOMBACCO AGLIANICO DEL BENEVENTANO 2021 CAMPANIA $15.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+22130 TAGARO MANCINELLO NERO DI TROIA 2021 PUGLIA $18.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+23259 TOMMASI RAFAÈL VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO SUPERIORE 2021 $19.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+11152 COUTADA VELHA SIGNATURE RED 2022 PORTUGAL $15.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+632869 S. SEBASTIÃO TINTA RORIZ/SYRAH 2021 PORTUGAL $14.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
Recommended Wines Over $20
======================
Fizz+224766 CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES BRUT SPARKLING VQA $25.95 MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )
Fizz+439257 VEUVE AMBAL GRANDE CUVÉE BRUT ROSÉ CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE
$22.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
W+1552 FLAT ROCK THE RUSTY SHED CHARDONNAY 2020 $34.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
W+215525 LA CHABLISIENNE LES VÉNÉRABLES VIEILLES VIGNES CHABLIS $32.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
W+10421 ASTROLABE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022 NEW ZEALAND $24.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+11581 DOMAINE QUEYLUS TRADITION CABERNET FRANC 2021 $33.70
R+130252 TAWSE SKETCHES CABERNET/MERLOT 2020 VQA $22.95 MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )
R+534339 VAUCHER PÈRE & FILS FLEURIE 2022 $22.80 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+40964 CHÂTEAU DE NAGES HERITAGE COSTIÈRES DE NÎMES 2021 $23.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+13439 CHÂTEAU DE MONTFAUCON LA CÔTES CÔTES DU RHÔNE 2019 $21.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+35942 FRANÇOIS VILLARD MAIRLANT SAINT-JOSEPH SYRAH 2020 $50.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+394650 LAVAU RASTEAU 2020 $23.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+344416 CASTELGREVE RISERVA CHIANTI CLASSICO 2019 $24.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+14857 CARPINETO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2018 $69.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
LIMITED TIME OFFERS: Some Recommended Wines from the LCBO's Limited Time Offers selections...these are "better" value...on sale through Sunday February 25
W+250696 Banfi Principessa Gavia Gavi Piedmont, now $18.95, save $3
W+215525 LA CHABLISIENNE LES VÉNÉRABLES VIEILLES VIGNES CHABLIS now $28.95, save $4
W+38117 Vineland Estates Elevation St. Urban Vineyard Riesling VQA, now $19.95, save $3
R+378257 Banfi Brunello di Montalcino, now $54.95, save $5
R+650796 Chateau Teynac Saint-Julien, now $64.95, save $5
R+926626 Famille Perrin Les Sinards Chateauneuf-du-Pape, now $38.95, save $3
R+314575 Sterling Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, now $49.95, save $5
R+225086 Umberto Cesari Liano Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon, $24.95, save $5
** Some New Wines I Tasted Over the Past Season ---
REPORT FROM ALSACE ROCKS! IN TORONTO SEPTEMBER 2023
The Event: Tasting Recent Vintages of Alsatian wines
The Venue: Second Floor Events, King Street West
The Target Audience: wine media, sommeliers
The Availability/Catalogue: a QR code at the site or a PDF later in the week, with info on the wines (but no prices)
The Quote/Background: Still wines are aromatic, unoaked, dry, complex, balanced, high quality and very food-friendly. 90% of the wines in Alsace are white. Seven main grape varieties (in order of vineyard plantings): Pinot Blanc (22%), Riesling (21%), Gewurztraminer (19%), Pinot Gris (16%), Pinot Noir (11%), Sylvaner (5%) and Muscat d'Alsace (2%). Crémant d'Alsace makes up 27% of total production and is made in the traditional method from Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Auxerrois, Pinot Noir (all Crémant d'Alsace Rosés are 100% Pinot Noir) and Chardonnay, the latter only for Crémant production. The AOC Alsace appellation is 70% of total production, Crémant d'Alsace is 27% and AOC Grand Cru is 3% (predominately Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris and Muscat d'Alsace). There were only 12 wineries attending here today which gave all of us a chance to concentrate on the few wines that were at the show. All the gewurztraminers were on one table, as were all the rieslings, the cremants, the pinot noirs, some blends and the older vintages. We had a great opportunity to compare and contrast producers. There were six tables in all.
The Wines: I did not taste all the wines
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Cave Jean Geiler Gewurztraminer Grand Cru 2020
-CAVE JEAN GEILER CRÉMANT D'ALSACE, RIESLING NV
-CAVE JEAN GEILER ALSACE, RIESLING, 2021 "INSPIRATION TERROIRS"
-CAVE JEAN GEILER ALSACE GRAND CRU FLORIMONT GEWURZTRAMINER, 2020
-DOMAINE WACH ALSACE, RIESLING, 2022 "ANDLAU" not repped
-DOMAINE WACH ALSACE GRAND CRU KASTELBERG RIESLING, 2019 not repped
-DOMAINE SOHLER PHILIPPE ALSACE, RIESLING, 2022 "HEISSENBERG" not repped
-DOMAINE KIRRENBOURG ALSACE GRAND CRU HENGST GEWURZTRAMINER, 2017
-CAVE DE RIBEAUVILLÉ CRÉMANT D'ALSACE "GIERSBERGER", NV
-CAVE DE RIBEAUVILLÉ ALSACE, RIESLING, 2021 BIO
-CAVE DE RIBEAUVILLÉ ALSACE, GEWURZTRAMINER, 2021 "COLLECTION"
-ETIENNE SIMONIS ALSACE, GEWURZTRAMINER, 2021 not repped
-ETIENNE SIMONIS ALSACE GRAND CRU MARCKRAIN GEWURZTRAMINER, 2021 not repped
-WUNSCH & MANN CRÉMANT D'ALSACE "TRADITION" BIO, NV [my fave fizz]
-WUNSCH & MANN ALSACE, GEWURZTRAMINER, 2022 "N°3", BIO
-DOPFF AU MOULIN CRÉMANT D'ALSACE "CUVÉE JULIEN", NV
-DOPFF AU MOULIN ALSACE GRAND CRU BRAND GEWURZTRAMINER, 2019
-ARTHUR METZ CRÉMANT D'ALSACE LIEU-DIT "SCHIEFERBERG", NV
-ARTHUR METZ CRÉMANT D'ALSACE "PRESTIGE", NV
-CAVE DES VIGNERONS DE PFAFFENHEIM ALSACE, GEWURZTRAMINER, 2020
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-ETIENNE SIMONIS CRÉMANT D'ALSACE EXTRA BRUT, NV not repped
-ARTHUR METZ ALSACE, RIESLING, 2021 "HORIZON"
-Cave Jean Geiler Pinot Gris 2021 Bio
-Domaine Charles Frey Riesling 2022 "Granite" not repped in Ontario
-DOMAINE KIRRENBOURG ALSACE GRAND CRU SCHLOSSBERG RIESLING, 2020 BIO
-Domaine Gruss Riesling Vieilles Vignes 2022
-DOMAINE GRUSS ALSACE GRAND CRU VORBOURG GEWURZTRAMINER, 2019
-CAVE DES VIGNERONS DE PFAFFENHEIM CRÉMANT D'ALSACE EXTRA BRUT, NV
-CAVE DES VIGNERONS DE PFAFFENHEIM ALSACE, RIESLING, 2021 "JUPITER"
The Food: there was a tapas station with tomato bread, ricotta ndjua on crostini, manchego on bread, chorizo and goat cheese, mussels escabeche. There was also a more traditional cheese/charcuterie platter with duck prosciutto, calabrese, truffled mortadella, Beemster cheese, Celtic blue, truffled Gouda.
The Downside: I wanted more riesling and gewurztraminer wines. Price ranges were not listed.
The Upside: there were a fair number of off-dry wines.
The Contact Person: nperez@sopexa.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 88
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at https://pages.pathcom.com/~dtudor since 1994. These notes for good wines available through LCBO Vintages (on a bi-weekly basis) can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca or at https://pages.pathcom.com/~dtudor No winery can buy their way into – or out of – this publication.
Scores are a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, e.g. a Southern Rhone would taste like a Southern Rhone) and QPR (Quality/Price Ratio value in the marketplace above or below its price).
I was one of the first to jump on the Robert Parker bandwagon, using numerical indications for scores. Why? Because with a database I could rate, rank and order wines in any fashion. It was just so convenient using databases. Unfortunately, the numerical system has been shown to be disgraced, so I am quitting any ranking by number. From now on, it will just be GOOD, BETTER and BEST, which will give me some wiggle room (e.g. is this wine an 87, 88, 89, or 90? Or all of them...depends on my mood and time of day). With the rigorous standards and lab testing by the LCBO, I can safely say that every single wine at the LCBO is at least GOOD, which I would numerically rank at 75-85 points. For reasons of time and space, I will NOT be listing GOOD wines. Just the BETTER (86-89) and BEST (90+ ) wines. This spread of points will probably relate to SILVER and GOLD medals, with BRONZE being "GOOD". Significantly, this also fits into my scheme for trade tastings (as noted below).
MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )
MAJOR THEME: France
Recommended Wines Under $20
======================
Fizz+16604 CELENE CUVÉE ROYALE ROSÉ CRÉMANT DE BORDEAUX $18.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
W+483891 ROCKWAY VINEYARDS UNOAKED CHARDONNAY 2022 VQA $20 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
W+224626 JOSEPH CATTIN GEWURZTRAMINER 2022 ALSACE $19.95 MVC/QPR: BEST(90+ )
W+25713 KOUROS ASSYRTIKO 2022 GREECE $14.95 MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )
W+36304 CANTINA SAN PAOLO FIANO 2022 CAMPANIA $16.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+36846 TOMBACCO AGLIANICO DEL BENEVENTANO 2021 CAMPANIA $15.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+22130 TAGARO MANCINELLO NERO DI TROIA 2021 PUGLIA $18.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+23259 TOMMASI RAFAÈL VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO SUPERIORE 2021 $19.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+11152 COUTADA VELHA SIGNATURE RED 2022 PORTUGAL $15.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+632869 S. SEBASTIÃO TINTA RORIZ/SYRAH 2021 PORTUGAL $14.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
Recommended Wines Over $20
======================
Fizz+224766 CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES BRUT SPARKLING VQA $25.95 MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )
Fizz+439257 VEUVE AMBAL GRANDE CUVÉE BRUT ROSÉ CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE
$22.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
W+1552 FLAT ROCK THE RUSTY SHED CHARDONNAY 2020 $34.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
W+215525 LA CHABLISIENNE LES VÉNÉRABLES VIEILLES VIGNES CHABLIS $32.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
W+10421 ASTROLABE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022 NEW ZEALAND $24.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+11581 DOMAINE QUEYLUS TRADITION CABERNET FRANC 2021 $33.70
R+130252 TAWSE SKETCHES CABERNET/MERLOT 2020 VQA $22.95 MVC/QPR: BEST (90+ )
R+534339 VAUCHER PÈRE & FILS FLEURIE 2022 $22.80 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+40964 CHÂTEAU DE NAGES HERITAGE COSTIÈRES DE NÎMES 2021 $23.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+13439 CHÂTEAU DE MONTFAUCON LA CÔTES CÔTES DU RHÔNE 2019 $21.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+35942 FRANÇOIS VILLARD MAIRLANT SAINT-JOSEPH SYRAH 2020 $50.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+394650 LAVAU RASTEAU 2020 $23.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+344416 CASTELGREVE RISERVA CHIANTI CLASSICO 2019 $24.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
R+14857 CARPINETO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2018 $69.95 MVC/QPR: BETTER (86-89)
LIMITED TIME OFFERS: Some Recommended Wines from the LCBO's Limited Time Offers selections...these are "better" value...on sale through Sunday February 25
W+250696 Banfi Principessa Gavia Gavi Piedmont, now $18.95, save $3
W+215525 LA CHABLISIENNE LES VÉNÉRABLES VIEILLES VIGNES CHABLIS now $28.95, save $4
W+38117 Vineland Estates Elevation St. Urban Vineyard Riesling VQA, now $19.95, save $3
R+378257 Banfi Brunello di Montalcino, now $54.95, save $5
R+650796 Chateau Teynac Saint-Julien, now $64.95, save $5
R+926626 Famille Perrin Les Sinards Chateauneuf-du-Pape, now $38.95, save $3
R+314575 Sterling Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, now $49.95, save $5
R+225086 Umberto Cesari Liano Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon, $24.95, save $5
** Some New Wines I Tasted Over the Past Season ---
REPORT FROM ALSACE ROCKS! IN TORONTO SEPTEMBER 2023
The Event: Tasting Recent Vintages of Alsatian wines
The Venue: Second Floor Events, King Street West
The Target Audience: wine media, sommeliers
The Availability/Catalogue: a QR code at the site or a PDF later in the week, with info on the wines (but no prices)
The Quote/Background: Still wines are aromatic, unoaked, dry, complex, balanced, high quality and very food-friendly. 90% of the wines in Alsace are white. Seven main grape varieties (in order of vineyard plantings): Pinot Blanc (22%), Riesling (21%), Gewurztraminer (19%), Pinot Gris (16%), Pinot Noir (11%), Sylvaner (5%) and Muscat d'Alsace (2%). Crémant d'Alsace makes up 27% of total production and is made in the traditional method from Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Auxerrois, Pinot Noir (all Crémant d'Alsace Rosés are 100% Pinot Noir) and Chardonnay, the latter only for Crémant production. The AOC Alsace appellation is 70% of total production, Crémant d'Alsace is 27% and AOC Grand Cru is 3% (predominately Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris and Muscat d'Alsace). There were only 12 wineries attending here today which gave all of us a chance to concentrate on the few wines that were at the show. All the gewurztraminers were on one table, as were all the rieslings, the cremants, the pinot noirs, some blends and the older vintages. We had a great opportunity to compare and contrast producers. There were six tables in all.
The Wines: I did not taste all the wines
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Cave Jean Geiler Gewurztraminer Grand Cru 2020
-CAVE JEAN GEILER CRÉMANT D'ALSACE, RIESLING NV
-CAVE JEAN GEILER ALSACE, RIESLING, 2021 "INSPIRATION TERROIRS"
-CAVE JEAN GEILER ALSACE GRAND CRU FLORIMONT GEWURZTRAMINER, 2020
-DOMAINE WACH ALSACE, RIESLING, 2022 "ANDLAU" not repped
-DOMAINE WACH ALSACE GRAND CRU KASTELBERG RIESLING, 2019 not repped
-DOMAINE SOHLER PHILIPPE ALSACE, RIESLING, 2022 "HEISSENBERG" not repped
-DOMAINE KIRRENBOURG ALSACE GRAND CRU HENGST GEWURZTRAMINER, 2017
-CAVE DE RIBEAUVILLÉ CRÉMANT D'ALSACE "GIERSBERGER", NV
-CAVE DE RIBEAUVILLÉ ALSACE, RIESLING, 2021 BIO
-CAVE DE RIBEAUVILLÉ ALSACE, GEWURZTRAMINER, 2021 "COLLECTION"
-ETIENNE SIMONIS ALSACE, GEWURZTRAMINER, 2021 not repped
-ETIENNE SIMONIS ALSACE GRAND CRU MARCKRAIN GEWURZTRAMINER, 2021 not repped
-WUNSCH & MANN CRÉMANT D'ALSACE "TRADITION" BIO, NV [my fave fizz]
-WUNSCH & MANN ALSACE, GEWURZTRAMINER, 2022 "N°3", BIO
-DOPFF AU MOULIN CRÉMANT D'ALSACE "CUVÉE JULIEN", NV
-DOPFF AU MOULIN ALSACE GRAND CRU BRAND GEWURZTRAMINER, 2019
-ARTHUR METZ CRÉMANT D'ALSACE LIEU-DIT "SCHIEFERBERG", NV
-ARTHUR METZ CRÉMANT D'ALSACE "PRESTIGE", NV
-CAVE DES VIGNERONS DE PFAFFENHEIM ALSACE, GEWURZTRAMINER, 2020
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-ETIENNE SIMONIS CRÉMANT D'ALSACE EXTRA BRUT, NV not repped
-ARTHUR METZ ALSACE, RIESLING, 2021 "HORIZON"
-Cave Jean Geiler Pinot Gris 2021 Bio
-Domaine Charles Frey Riesling 2022 "Granite" not repped in Ontario
-DOMAINE KIRRENBOURG ALSACE GRAND CRU SCHLOSSBERG RIESLING, 2020 BIO
-Domaine Gruss Riesling Vieilles Vignes 2022
-DOMAINE GRUSS ALSACE GRAND CRU VORBOURG GEWURZTRAMINER, 2019
-CAVE DES VIGNERONS DE PFAFFENHEIM CRÉMANT D'ALSACE EXTRA BRUT, NV
-CAVE DES VIGNERONS DE PFAFFENHEIM ALSACE, RIESLING, 2021 "JUPITER"
The Food: there was a tapas station with tomato bread, ricotta ndjua on crostini, manchego on bread, chorizo and goat cheese, mussels escabeche. There was also a more traditional cheese/charcuterie platter with duck prosciutto, calabrese, truffled mortadella, Beemster cheese, Celtic blue, truffled Gouda.
The Downside: I wanted more riesling and gewurztraminer wines. Price ranges were not listed.
The Upside: there were a fair number of off-dry wines.
The Contact Person: nperez@sopexa.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 88
Dean Tudor, Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.comhttp://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures
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