Kacaba Vineyards & Winery Wine Tasting, January 2025....
1. Kacaba Vineyards & Winery "Sustainable Premium Series" Reserve Riesling 2023 VQA Niagara Lakeshore, $24.15 (currently at the winery boutique and kacaba.com) is new to me. It's an unoaked off-dry drink with elements of orchard fruit such as peach or apricot following a lime opener through to a mild honeyed (botrytised?) ending. The grapes were late-harvested on November 2, 2023, the juicy wine was stored in stainless steel tanks, and it was bottled in June. The acid level was brisk and stifled any overt sweetness. It can be stored for several years (5 - 6 years is suggested) to bring out its Alsatian nature of mineral-petrol. Screw-cap closure works well here in the traditional Riesling bottle. It's a great all round wine, from sipping as an aperitif to accompanying a wide variety of South-East Asia (SEA) dishes from Vietnam, Thai, Indian -- or actually anything spicy. 8.3 g/L residual sugar, 12.1% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.
2. Kacaba Vineyards & Winery "Summer Series" Jennifer's Pinot Gris 2023 VQA Niagara Peninsula, $24.15 (currently at the winery boutique and kacaba.com). It's more Alsatian-like in its complexity with orchard fruit (pear, peach, apricot, apple), some melon notes and no oaking. It's medium weight and finishes dry, but can be used either as a social drink or with first-course food such as chicken or seafood. It's also useful as a "rose" since it's not called "gris" for nothing: the grape pressing gives it a pinkish tone. We've seen this in many other pinot gris bottles from other wineries. It is a light, aromatic quaff, stored in stainless steel until the June bottling. Screw-cap closure and a classy label. 2 g/L residual sugar (lower than in previous vintages), 12.8% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.
3. Kacaba Vineyards & Winery Premium Series Cabernet Franc 2021 VQA Niagara Escarpment, $35.15. (currently at the winery boutique and kacaba.com). This is one of Kacaba's upscale labels. Very reminiscent of Right Bank (St. Emilion) cabs but without the stuffing of, say, Cheval Blanc. It is just as durable at this young age. Currently it is mute until tasted later after aeration. What I usually do is a double-decant, taste, and then leave it in a sealed bottle for up to a week, with daily tastings. If you don't want to do this, then you may want to wait a bit longer as the wine will be ready in six to ten years. Complex aromas and tastes begin to ascend and descend as the week rolls on. First, some black cherries followed by red tones on the palate from Ontario cranberry tartness. Some vanilla smoke, savoury herby spiciness, even mocha. The 2021 was fermented for two weeks before being racked into a combination of French and American oak. Maturation was 14 months. Aged or gamey red meat is mostly called for with this classic European-styled wine. 2.2 g/L residual sugar, 13.1% ABV, cork closure. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.
4. Kacaba Vineyards & Winery Escarpment Series Meritage 2021 VQA Niagara Escarpment, $35.15 (currently at the winery boutique and kacaba.com). This blend has changed every time since it is determined by the percentage of the grape varieties used based on how the harvest went. This year (2021), it is cabernet franc 33.5%, cabernet sauvignon 41.1% and merlot 25.4%. Everything was vinified separately in stainless steel tanks, and then aged in French and American oak for 12 months. The final blend from 24 casks was determined, and this blend went into stainless steel tanks. A racking into older neutral barrels followed, and the wine was aged for a further five months in wood. This is a value wine driven by black fruit (black currants, blackberries, plums, dark cherries) and vanilla-mocha. It's still tannic but with nuances of smoke and spices. I usually do a double-decant, taste, and then put it in a bottle with a cork for up to a week, with daily tastings. If you don't do this, then you will miss the evolution of the wine. The wine will be fully mature in a few more years, and should keep even longer. Umami food pairings may probably be best, with cured meats, older cheeses, even vegan mushroom risottos. 2.4 g/L residual sugar, 13.2% ABV, cork closure. Quality/Price rating is 93 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.
Kacaba has been renowned for its syrahs:
5. Kacaba Vineyards & Winery Escarpment Series Proprietor's Block Vineyard Syrah VQA Niagara Escarpment 2021, $35.15 (currently at the winery boutique and kacaba.com). This syrah is still a young wine, three years old, and with a lot to resolve among the complexities of toasty smoke, vanillins, and black cherries, cracked pepper and other spices. 7.4% of Kacaba viognier was added, in true Northern Rhone fashion style. I've tasted various Kacaba syrahs back to 2000 with the Wine Writers' Circle of Canada. [See below...] You'll get a whiff of anise, rosemary, and red fruit, and with the viognier fruit it is a bit refreshing with some soft textures. Storage was in both French and American oak for 14 months. Definitely a red meat wine but also excels with anything grilled, whether meat or vegetable. What I usually do is a double-decant, taste, and then leave it in a sealed bottle for a week, with daily tastings. If you do this, then you can taste the progress of the wine to its maturity. The grapes come from the youngest syrah plantings at Kacaba. Currently it is plummy but could turn jammy with age. Very good balanced finish emphasizes smooth tannins with a juicy length. The previous vintage was a multiple wine award winner (Gold at Ontario Wine Awards 2022, Gold at the All Canadians 2022, and Silver at the National Wine Awards 2022). 13% ABV. 2.4g/L residual sugar, cork closure. Quality/Price rating is 91 - 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.
6. Kacaba Vineyards & Winery Escarpment Series Terraced Vineyard Syrah VQA Niagara Escarpment 2021, $35.15 (currently at the winery boutique and kacaba.com).
The fruit here was hand-picked. In true Rhone style, there was a 9.3% addition of estate viognier. The major expression here is that of black cherry-berry tones, mocha, and black and white pepper. It's way too young to consume without double-decanting or other aeration. This is one for the cellar, tight and still developing. Try in a few years as the tannins need a bit more time to smooth out. It is well worth waiting for that delicious syrah intensity: more leaning to a deft Euro style with peppery spices, some leather, smoke, vanilla, red and black fruit. It has been in French and American oak for 14 months. Expect black fruit and berries, coffee and chocolate tones. It is a big plummy wine: dark, deep, and rich, cedary and jammy. Double-decanting a necessity at this point for that "Rhone tone". Silver medalist at the All Canadian Wine Championships 2024. 13% ABV, 2.1g/L residual sugar, cork closure. Quality/Price rating is 91 - 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.
Kacaba winery began in 1997, and soon made its first syrahs. The original winemaker was Sue Ann Staff, followed by Jim Warren and John Tummon; Vadim Chelekhow made the 2021 syrah wine. In 2005, no syrah was harvested. The 2001 showed ladybug presence and is not rated. The Wine Writers' Circle of Canada tasted the wines below in 2014.
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Kacaba Syrah 2000, harvested Oct 26
-Kacaba Syrah 2006, harv. Sep 30, 12.2% ABV
-Kacaba Syrah 2007 Proprietor's Reserve, harv. Oct 3, 12.8% ABV
-Kacaba Syrah 2010 Reserve Main Vineyard, harv. Sept 27, 13.1% ABV, co-fermented (as are all below) 5% or more Viognier $69.95
-Kacaba Syrah 2010 Single Vineyard, harv. Sept 29, 13.9% ABV, 5% Viognier $39.95
-Kacaba Syrah 2012, harv. Oct 2, 13.7% ABV, 5% Viognier $39.95
-Kacaba Syrah 2013 Terrace Vineyard, harv. Oct 26, 7% Viognier [barrel sample]
*** BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Kacaba Syrah 2002, harvested. Oct 7, 14.3% ABV
-Kacaba Syrah 2004 Reserve, harv. Oct 25, 13.8% ABV
-Kacaba Syrah 2009 Single Vineyard, harv. Oct 30, 12.9% ABV, $29.99
-Kacaba Syrah 2011 PS Flats Vineyard, harv. Oct 4, 12.9% ABV, 5% Viognier $29.95
-Kacaba Syrah 2011 Ravine/Main Vineyards, harv. Oct 8, 13.3% ABV, 5% Viognier $29.95
-Kacaba Syrah 2013 Main Vineyard, harv. Oct 26, 7% Viognier [barrel sample]
-Kacaba Syrah 2013 Flats Vineyard, harv. Oct 26, 7% Viognier [barrel sample]
*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Kacaba Syrah 2003, harvested Nov 4, 12% ABV
-Kacaba Syrah 2008, harv. Oct 23, 12.4% ABV
1. Kacaba Vineyards & Winery "Sustainable Premium Series" Reserve Riesling 2023 VQA Niagara Lakeshore, $24.15 (currently at the winery boutique and kacaba.com) is new to me. It's an unoaked off-dry drink with elements of orchard fruit such as peach or apricot following a lime opener through to a mild honeyed (botrytised?) ending. The grapes were late-harvested on November 2, 2023, the juicy wine was stored in stainless steel tanks, and it was bottled in June. The acid level was brisk and stifled any overt sweetness. It can be stored for several years (5 - 6 years is suggested) to bring out its Alsatian nature of mineral-petrol. Screw-cap closure works well here in the traditional Riesling bottle. It's a great all round wine, from sipping as an aperitif to accompanying a wide variety of South-East Asia (SEA) dishes from Vietnam, Thai, Indian -- or actually anything spicy. 8.3 g/L residual sugar, 12.1% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.
2. Kacaba Vineyards & Winery "Summer Series" Jennifer's Pinot Gris 2023 VQA Niagara Peninsula, $24.15 (currently at the winery boutique and kacaba.com). It's more Alsatian-like in its complexity with orchard fruit (pear, peach, apricot, apple), some melon notes and no oaking. It's medium weight and finishes dry, but can be used either as a social drink or with first-course food such as chicken or seafood. It's also useful as a "rose" since it's not called "gris" for nothing: the grape pressing gives it a pinkish tone. We've seen this in many other pinot gris bottles from other wineries. It is a light, aromatic quaff, stored in stainless steel until the June bottling. Screw-cap closure and a classy label. 2 g/L residual sugar (lower than in previous vintages), 12.8% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.
3. Kacaba Vineyards & Winery Premium Series Cabernet Franc 2021 VQA Niagara Escarpment, $35.15. (currently at the winery boutique and kacaba.com). This is one of Kacaba's upscale labels. Very reminiscent of Right Bank (St. Emilion) cabs but without the stuffing of, say, Cheval Blanc. It is just as durable at this young age. Currently it is mute until tasted later after aeration. What I usually do is a double-decant, taste, and then leave it in a sealed bottle for up to a week, with daily tastings. If you don't want to do this, then you may want to wait a bit longer as the wine will be ready in six to ten years. Complex aromas and tastes begin to ascend and descend as the week rolls on. First, some black cherries followed by red tones on the palate from Ontario cranberry tartness. Some vanilla smoke, savoury herby spiciness, even mocha. The 2021 was fermented for two weeks before being racked into a combination of French and American oak. Maturation was 14 months. Aged or gamey red meat is mostly called for with this classic European-styled wine. 2.2 g/L residual sugar, 13.1% ABV, cork closure. Quality/Price rating is 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.
4. Kacaba Vineyards & Winery Escarpment Series Meritage 2021 VQA Niagara Escarpment, $35.15 (currently at the winery boutique and kacaba.com). This blend has changed every time since it is determined by the percentage of the grape varieties used based on how the harvest went. This year (2021), it is cabernet franc 33.5%, cabernet sauvignon 41.1% and merlot 25.4%. Everything was vinified separately in stainless steel tanks, and then aged in French and American oak for 12 months. The final blend from 24 casks was determined, and this blend went into stainless steel tanks. A racking into older neutral barrels followed, and the wine was aged for a further five months in wood. This is a value wine driven by black fruit (black currants, blackberries, plums, dark cherries) and vanilla-mocha. It's still tannic but with nuances of smoke and spices. I usually do a double-decant, taste, and then put it in a bottle with a cork for up to a week, with daily tastings. If you don't do this, then you will miss the evolution of the wine. The wine will be fully mature in a few more years, and should keep even longer. Umami food pairings may probably be best, with cured meats, older cheeses, even vegan mushroom risottos. 2.4 g/L residual sugar, 13.2% ABV, cork closure. Quality/Price rating is 93 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.
Kacaba has been renowned for its syrahs:
5. Kacaba Vineyards & Winery Escarpment Series Proprietor's Block Vineyard Syrah VQA Niagara Escarpment 2021, $35.15 (currently at the winery boutique and kacaba.com). This syrah is still a young wine, three years old, and with a lot to resolve among the complexities of toasty smoke, vanillins, and black cherries, cracked pepper and other spices. 7.4% of Kacaba viognier was added, in true Northern Rhone fashion style. I've tasted various Kacaba syrahs back to 2000 with the Wine Writers' Circle of Canada. [See below...] You'll get a whiff of anise, rosemary, and red fruit, and with the viognier fruit it is a bit refreshing with some soft textures. Storage was in both French and American oak for 14 months. Definitely a red meat wine but also excels with anything grilled, whether meat or vegetable. What I usually do is a double-decant, taste, and then leave it in a sealed bottle for a week, with daily tastings. If you do this, then you can taste the progress of the wine to its maturity. The grapes come from the youngest syrah plantings at Kacaba. Currently it is plummy but could turn jammy with age. Very good balanced finish emphasizes smooth tannins with a juicy length. The previous vintage was a multiple wine award winner (Gold at Ontario Wine Awards 2022, Gold at the All Canadians 2022, and Silver at the National Wine Awards 2022). 13% ABV. 2.4g/L residual sugar, cork closure. Quality/Price rating is 91 - 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.
6. Kacaba Vineyards & Winery Escarpment Series Terraced Vineyard Syrah VQA Niagara Escarpment 2021, $35.15 (currently at the winery boutique and kacaba.com).
The fruit here was hand-picked. In true Rhone style, there was a 9.3% addition of estate viognier. The major expression here is that of black cherry-berry tones, mocha, and black and white pepper. It's way too young to consume without double-decanting or other aeration. This is one for the cellar, tight and still developing. Try in a few years as the tannins need a bit more time to smooth out. It is well worth waiting for that delicious syrah intensity: more leaning to a deft Euro style with peppery spices, some leather, smoke, vanilla, red and black fruit. It has been in French and American oak for 14 months. Expect black fruit and berries, coffee and chocolate tones. It is a big plummy wine: dark, deep, and rich, cedary and jammy. Double-decanting a necessity at this point for that "Rhone tone". Silver medalist at the All Canadian Wine Championships 2024. 13% ABV, 2.1g/L residual sugar, cork closure. Quality/Price rating is 91 - 92 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures Writing.
Kacaba winery began in 1997, and soon made its first syrahs. The original winemaker was Sue Ann Staff, followed by Jim Warren and John Tummon; Vadim Chelekhow made the 2021 syrah wine. In 2005, no syrah was harvested. The 2001 showed ladybug presence and is not rated. The Wine Writers' Circle of Canada tasted the wines below in 2014.
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Kacaba Syrah 2000, harvested Oct 26
-Kacaba Syrah 2006, harv. Sep 30, 12.2% ABV
-Kacaba Syrah 2007 Proprietor's Reserve, harv. Oct 3, 12.8% ABV
-Kacaba Syrah 2010 Reserve Main Vineyard, harv. Sept 27, 13.1% ABV, co-fermented (as are all below) 5% or more Viognier $69.95
-Kacaba Syrah 2010 Single Vineyard, harv. Sept 29, 13.9% ABV, 5% Viognier $39.95
-Kacaba Syrah 2012, harv. Oct 2, 13.7% ABV, 5% Viognier $39.95
-Kacaba Syrah 2013 Terrace Vineyard, harv. Oct 26, 7% Viognier [barrel sample]
*** BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Kacaba Syrah 2002, harvested. Oct 7, 14.3% ABV
-Kacaba Syrah 2004 Reserve, harv. Oct 25, 13.8% ABV
-Kacaba Syrah 2009 Single Vineyard, harv. Oct 30, 12.9% ABV, $29.99
-Kacaba Syrah 2011 PS Flats Vineyard, harv. Oct 4, 12.9% ABV, 5% Viognier $29.95
-Kacaba Syrah 2011 Ravine/Main Vineyards, harv. Oct 8, 13.3% ABV, 5% Viognier $29.95
-Kacaba Syrah 2013 Main Vineyard, harv. Oct 26, 7% Viognier [barrel sample]
-Kacaba Syrah 2013 Flats Vineyard, harv. Oct 26, 7% Viognier [barrel sample]
*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Kacaba Syrah 2003, harvested Nov 4, 12% ABV
-Kacaba Syrah 2008, harv. Oct 23, 12.4% ABV
Dean Tudor, Prof Emeritus T'karonto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson) School of Journalism
Treasurer of Wine Writers' Circle of Canada http://www.deantudor.comhttp://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
https://twitter.com/gothicepicures
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