Latest Marynissen wines in review

At the Ontario Wine Awards Gala in May, I was persuaded by James Guo (Sales Director) to try some of the new Marynissen wines, particularly their estate wines. The winery has sort-of been reinvented with new ownership. I had not tried any of their wines for sometime, the latest being on a WCO road trip in September 2003. We had some of their remarkable Gewurztraminer 2002 and Merlot 1999. Of course, a lot has happened since then. Here are some notes on the new wines (made by Gordon Robert who had previously been at Stoney Ridge awhile back); wines are only available at the winery or through case orders:

 

1.Marynissen Estates Pinot Gris 2014 VQA Niagara Lakeshore Kasper Vineyard, $17: I am not a fan of pinot grigio, and I always approach pinot gris (the French name of the grape) with some caution in the New World – for the reason that many wineries use the "gris" form yet produce a "grigio" that is Italian in style. Fear not here. The Gris is definitely in the Alsatian mode, albeit drier (climate changes in France) with plenty of orchard fruit of apples and pears. Body and concentration results from aging on the lees until bottling, with 50% of the new wine being both BF and BA for a short period. With tropical notes showing, this wine is pretty good value at the price. Great as an aperitif or on its own. 13.2% ABV. Silver medal at All Canadians. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

2.Marynissen Estates Sauvignon Blanc 2014 VQA Niagara Lakeshore Kasper Vineyard, $17: I am a fan of Kiwi Savvies, and this wine can go mano a mano with many of them. Expect the MVC of lime, lemon, green peppers, and some grass, with undertones of tropicality. My wife picked out the gooseberries before I did. 12% ABV. The 2013 won a Gold medal at All Canadians; I'd expect this one to do the same. Serve with veggie platter or at vegetarian feasts, or as first course with seafood. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

3.Marynissen Estates Riesling 2013 VQA Four Mile Creek Marynissen Vineyard, $16: This Riesling was a bit mute and light, with diminished Riesling character. Everything was nuanced, even the typical honey tones. Ontario fruits show (apricots rather than peaches, some apple). Useful as a first course wine, but not on its own. Quality/Price rating is 87 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

4.Marynissen Estates Quintet 2013 Platinum Series VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake Marynissen Vineyard, $50: this is a white wine blend of one-fifth each Riesling, Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, and Sauvignon Blanc, coming in at 13.1% ABV. It can be a stunning wine, but not yet. It has had some oak treatment (16 months in 100% Hungarian oak, heavy fine lees). When I first pulled the cork, I was overwhelmed by the aromas of medium-aged wood tones. But these dissipated and the wine turned into a dry blend of several different characters. In fact, I had chilled the wine as I did the other whites. But I realize that I should not have. The wine is best at a quickly chilled under-room temperature. And this will change as time progresses. I expect the taste profile to evolve. Right now it is sort-of "exotic" fruit with nuances of a whole range of fruit salad. The wood tones will resolve themselves with time. The experts at the winery may decide that the percentage proportions may have to change, depending on the vintage. Still, it is a masterful attempt for a first time. I tasted the wine over three days and it became three different wines. Overall, the wine needs to be cooled not chilled, kept for another two years or so, and used as a main course complex wine to accompany heavy but simple food. The oaking should nicely stand up to any cream sauce. Certainly it would be a waste to just sip the wine on the patio, or even use it as just an aperitif – at this price! Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

 

5.Marynissen Estates Chardonnay 2013 Platinum Series VQA Four Mile Creek Marynissen Estate Vineyard, Lot31, $20: an absolute delight, reminiscent of the Stoney Ridge Excellence Chardonnay of 2010 (which later won an LGO Award as best white wine). It has been barrel-fermented and barrel-aged in US, French and Hungarian oak over a period of 16 months, for a wide variety of wood expressions such as toast and smoke. Ontario MVC for local orchard fruit tones and some flintiness. 13.6% ABV. Good price. Do not serve overchilled. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

 

6.Marynissen Estates Chardonnay 2013 Platinum Series Yeast Strain Series VQA Four Mile Creek Marynissen Estate Vineyard, Lot31 – Yeast D254

7.Marynissen Estates Chardonnay 2013 Platinum Series Yeast Strain Series VQA Four Mile Creek Marynissen Estate Vineyard, Lot31 – Yeast Vin2000

8.Marynissen Estates Chardonnay 2013 Platinum Series Yeast Strain Series VQA Four Mile Creek Marynissen Estate Vineyard, Lot31 – Yeast Vin13

I tasted these wines semi-blind in that I poured and compared all three in numbered glasses according to yeast number order from low to high. All were aged in 500 Litre American oak barrels. Vin13 began with a strong aroma of oak that later resolved. It was succulent with some VA that also blew off. It appeared to be a mix of different styles with some tropicality, almost a fruit salad. D254 had less oak on the nose, showed some European restraint and sophistication with some nuttiness and caramel textures. I liked it the best. Vin2000, which my wife liked best, was more in a New world style, slightly blowsy with whiffs of pineapple and lemon groves. Currently, the wine is priced at $100 for a collection of one bottle of each yeast strain (three bottles total); it comes with special packaging. I do not have an indication of how many packages there are. It seems like a good idea for collectors who can re-visit the wines every two years – load-up and buy several packs! [Reminds me of the Three Guys Pinot Noir package collection from 1995, with Marynissen, Stoney Ridge and Lakeview contributing one bottle each and a fourth bottle being a blend of all three; all the grapes came from the same source, Butler's Grant vineyard, so the only difference was the winemaker's style and yeast]. This Yeast Strain series is not available separately, sold only as a package. The Platinum series has the name of the winemaker (Gordon Robert) on the front label, but just sparse details about the wine on the back label. I think more details should be known, especially since the wines are not yet ready and need more time in the bottle. I re-tasted the wines twice (over three days) and found that they had all improved, especially when not overchilled. Imbibers need to take their time drinking these wines, and meditate over them. Listen to what the wines say.

Quality/Price rating for the package is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures; my fave was D254, my wife's was Vin2000.

 

 

9.Marynissen Estates Cabernet Franc 2013 VQA Twenty Mile Bench Fox Vineyard, $18: this is a straight-forward franc with better complexity than most, and well-deserving of its status as a food wine. There are black and blueberries here, as well as herbal peppers.  13.5% ABV. One for food rather than patio sipping. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

10.Marynissen Estates Merlot 2013 VQA Four Mile Creek Marynissen Estate Vineyard, $17: softly developing flavours that are so typical of a well-placed and well-farmed merlot vine: dark berries, dark plums, and even some coffee-chocolate, 12.5% ABV. Can be sipped or first-course food. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

11.Marynissen Estates Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Platinum Series VQA Four Mile Creek Marynissen Estate Vineyard, $25: comes from the oldest commercially planted cabernet sauvignon vineyard in Canada. It is a young wine, almost two years old, and with a lot to resolve amongst the complexities of smoke, toast, vanillins, black cherry fruit, cassis, and spices. Currently it is plummy but could turn jammy in age. Very balanced finish. No details about the wine on the back label at all. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

12.Marynissen Estates Syrah 2013 Platinum Series VQA Four Mile Creek Marynissen Estate Vineyard, $35: Much like the Cabernet Sauvignon just reviewed, the Syrah is a young wine, almost two years old, and with a lot to resolve amongst the complexities of toasty smoke, vanillins, raspberry and black fruit, pepper and other spices. Currently it is plummy but could turn jammy with age. Very balanced finish emphasizes smooth tannins with a juicy length. No details about the wine on the back label. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Some NEW Wines tasted this month...

At the Ontario Wine Awards Gala in May, I was persuaded by James Guo (Sales Director) to try some of the new Marynissen wines, particularly their estate wines. The winery has sort-of been reinvented with new ownership. I had not tried any of their wines for sometime, the latest being on a WCO road trip in September 2003. We had some of their remarkable Gewurztraminer 2002 and Merlot 1999. Of course, a lot has happened since then. Here are some notes on the new wines (made by Gordon Robert who had previously been at Stoney Ridge awhile back); wines are only available at the winery or through case orders:

 

1.Marynissen Estates Pinot Gris 2014 VQA Niagara Lakeshore Kasper Vineyard, $17: I am not a fan of pinot grigio, and I always approach pinot gris (the French name of the grape) with some caution in the New World – for the reason that many wineries use the "gris" form yet produce a "grigio" that is Italian in style. Fear not here. The Gris is definitely in the Alsatian mode, albeit drier (climate changes in France) with plenty of orchard fruit of apples and pears. Body and concentration results from aging on the lees until bottling, with 50% of the new wine being both BF and BA for a short period. With tropical notes showing, this wine is pretty good value at the price. Great as an aperitif or on its own. 13.2% ABV. Silver medal at All Canadians. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

2.Marynissen Estates Sauvignon Blanc 2014 VQA Niagara Lakeshore Kasper Vineyard, $17: I am a fan of Kiwi Savvies, and this wine can go mano a mano with many of them. Expect the MVC of lime, lemon, green peppers, and some grass, with undertones of tropicality. My wife picked out the gooseberries before I did. 12% ABV. The 2013 won a Gold medal at All Canadians; I'd expect this one to do the same. Serve with veggie platter or at vegetarian feasts, or as first course with seafood. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

3.Marynissen Estates Riesling 2013 VQA Four Mile Creek Marynissen Vineyard, $16: This Riesling was a bit mute and light, with diminished Riesling character. Everything was nuanced, even the typical honey tones. Ontario fruits show (apricots rather than peaches, some apple). Useful as a first course wine, but not on its own. Quality/Price rating is 87 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

4.Marynissen Estates Quintet 2013 Platinum Series VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake Marynissen Vineyard, $50: this is a white wine blend of one-fifth each Riesling, Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, and Sauvignon Blanc, coming in at 13.1% ABV. It can be a stunning wine, but not yet. It has had some oak treatment (16 months in 100% Hungarian oak, heavy fine lees). When I first pulled the cork, I was overwhelmed by the aromas of medium-aged wood tones. But these dissipated and the wine turned into a dry blend of several different characters. In fact, I had chilled the wine as I did the other whites. But I realize that I should not have. The wine is best at a quickly chilled under-room temperature. And this will change as time progresses. I expect the taste profile to evolve. Right now it is sort-of "exotic" fruit with nuances of a whole range of fruit salad. The wood tones will resolve themselves with time. The experts at the winery may decide that the percentage proportions may have to change, depending on the vintage. Still, it is a masterful attempt for a first time. I tasted the wine over three days and it became three different wines. Overall, the wine needs to be cooled not chilled, kept for another two years or so, and used as a main course complex wine to accompany heavy but simple food. The oaking should nicely stand up to any cream sauce. Certainly it would be a waste to just sip the wine on the patio, or even use it as just an aperitif – at this price! Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

 

5.Marynissen Estates Chardonnay 2013 Platinum Series VQA Four Mile Creek Marynissen Estate Vineyard, Lot31, $20: an absolute delight, reminiscent of the Stoney Ridge Excellence Chardonnay of 2010 (which later won an LGO Award as best white wine). It has been barrel-fermented and barrel-aged in US, French and Hungarian oak over a period of 16 months, for a wide variety of wood expressions such as toast and smoke. Ontario MVC for local orchard fruit tones and some flintiness. 13.6% ABV. Good price. Do not serve overchilled. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

 

6.Marynissen Estates Chardonnay 2013 Platinum Series Yeast Strain Series VQA Four Mile Creek Marynissen Estate Vineyard, Lot31 – Yeast D254

7.Marynissen Estates Chardonnay 2013 Platinum Series Yeast Strain Series VQA Four Mile Creek Marynissen Estate Vineyard, Lot31 – Yeast Vin2000

8.Marynissen Estates Chardonnay 2013 Platinum Series Yeast Strain Series VQA Four Mile Creek Marynissen Estate Vineyard, Lot31 – Yeast Vin13

I tasted these wines semi-blind in that I poured and compared all three in numbered glasses according to yeast number order from low to high. All were aged in 500 Litre American oak barrels. Vin13 began with a strong aroma of oak that later resolved. It was succulent with some VA that also blew off. It appeared to be a mix of different styles with some tropicality, almost a fruit salad. D254 had less oak on the nose, showed some European restraint and sophistication with some nuttiness and caramel textures. I liked it the best. Vin2000, which my wife liked best, was more in a New world style, slightly blowsy with whiffs of pineapple and lemon groves. Currently, the wine is priced at $100 for a collection of one bottle of each yeast strain (three bottles total); it comes with special packaging. I do not have an indication of how many packages there are. It seems like a good idea for collectors who can re-visit the wines every two years – load-up and buy several packs! [Reminds me of the Three Guys Pinot Noir package collection from 1995, with Marynissen, Stoney Ridge and Lakeview contributing one bottle each and a fourth bottle being a blend of all three; all the grapes came from the same source, Butler's Grant vineyard, so the only difference was the winemaker's style and yeast]. This Yeast Strain series is not available separately, sold only as a package. The Platinum series has the name of the winemaker (Gordon Robert) on the front label, but just sparse details about the wine on the back label. I think more details should be known, especially since the wines are not yet ready and need more time in the bottle. I re-tasted the wines twice (over three days) and found that they had all improved, especially when not overchilled. Imbibers need to take their time drinking these wines, and meditate over them. Listen to what the wines say.

Quality/Price rating for the package is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures; my fave was D254, my wife's was Vin2000.

 

 

9.Marynissen Estates Cabernet Franc 2013 VQA Twenty Mile Bench Fox Vineyard, $18: this is a straight-forward franc with better complexity than most, and well-deserving of its status as a food wine. There are black and blueberries here, as well as herbal peppers.  13.5% ABV. One for food rather than patio sipping. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

10.Marynissen Estates Merlot 2013 VQA Four Mile Creek Marynissen Estate Vineyard, $17: softly developing flavours that are so typical of a well-placed and well-farmed merlot vine: dark berries, dark plums, and even some coffee-chocolate, 12.5% ABV. Can be sipped or first-course food. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

11.Marynissen Estates Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Platinum Series VQA Four Mile Creek Marynissen Estate Vineyard, $25: comes from the oldest commercially planted cabernet sauvignon vineyard in Canada. It is a young wine, almost two years old, and with a lot to resolve amongst the complexities of smoke, toast, vanillins, black cherry fruit, cassis, and spices. Currently it is plummy but could turn jammy in age. Very balanced finish. No details about the wine on the back label at all. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

12.Marynissen Estates Syrah 2013 Platinum Series VQA Four Mile Creek Marynissen Estate Vineyard, $35: Much like the Cabernet Sauvignon just reviewed, the Syrah is a young wine, almost two years old, and with a lot to resolve amongst the complexities of toasty smoke, vanillins, raspberry and black fruit, pepper and other spices. Currently it is plummy but could turn jammy with age. Very balanced finish emphasizes smooth tannins with a juicy length. No details about the wine on the back label. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

 

 

Other wines:

 

13.Dusted Valley Boomtown Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Columbia Valley Washington State, +220376, $23.95 Vintages: Washington state cabbies are the most value-driven of all the US cabs. They are consistently overachieving but often underappreciated. They taste "above their raisin'" and are exceptional value. The Boomtown (no relation to the Irish Rats band) with its screw cap and 14.2% ABV, delivers consistent notes of black fruit (cassis, cherry). 6% Merlot and 3% Malbec have been added. It's versatile enough for summer sipping, parties or family meals. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

14.Henry of Pelham Cabernet-Merlot 2010 Estate VQA Short Hills Bench, +395855 Vintages, $24.95: made from Pelham's oldest Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot vineyards. Aged in US and French oak, 40% new for 18 months. An early wine will be slightly tannic but this can be fixed by aeration; I also enjoyed this wine over a week after opening. Needs more aging to appreciate some nuances while tasting, otherwise the wine is useful now so long as it has been paired with traditional food such as roasts or grilled meats and veggies. 13.5% ABV, vinified from heavy cropping and selection, held back four years before release. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

15.Henry of Pelham Family Tree White 2012 VQA Niagara Peninsula, +251116 Vintages, $17.95: another Ontario white wine blend, made from Pelham grapes and from other vineyards in the appellation. 40% estate grown, 40% barrel fermentation and eight months barrel aging (no malolactic). Grapes: chardonnay 60%, viognier 20%, gewurztraminer 11%, and sauvignon blanc 9%. Grapes and their percentages can change year over year; the blend goes well with chicken and as a sipper. Fruity on mid-palate, more lean on the finish. 13% ABV but with a cork closure. A winemaker's wine for summer patios or first course entertaining.

 

 

 

16.Thornbury Sauvignon Blanc 2014 Marlborough NZ, +734798 Vintages Sept 19, $18.95: zesty with lots of citric and green tones (herbs, grass, gooseberry, beans, typical low ripeness). Very much a Kiwi Savvy with minerality and a sense of place in Marlborough. Some juiciness near the end, but basically this is a food wine, great at lunch with salad, sandwich, soup. 13% ABV. Standard screw cap. Well-priced in its category. A medal winner at the Air New Zealand Wine Awards 2014. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

 

17.Mare Magnum Mauro Chardonnay 2014 Puglia, +404491 LCBO, $11.50: a new General List entry sure to start a sizzle with its screw cap, slick label design, and 14.5% ABV. The fact that it has won a few awards for previous vintages plus the most recent Citadelles du Vin Gold 2015 (for this vintage) is icing on the cake. It is an all-purpose white, going up against the $15 - 17 California-Latin America-Ontario chardonnays (but priced at a more modest $11.50). It's got that appley-lemon-vanillian off-dry oaky feel – all in perfect balance. It's obviously a winemaker's wine, dominated by balance and usefulness as an aperitif or first course white. Here's a chance for you to save a few dollars if you like the mid-priced chardonnay range. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

18.The ever inventive late Larry Paterson (who is sorely missed) made the best apple cider in Ontario. For years I drank it, as well as cider made from organic windfalls. And I made my own cider. But now I am too lazy, so I buy it. The Ontario Craft Cider Association (OCCA) has an Ontario Craft Cider Pack at some LCBO stores. Priced at $17.95 (x6 473mL cans), the OCCA Pack has ciders currently available at the LCBO. It is a good sampler from among its 19 members – not all have ciders available at the LCBO. But these six do  – and all are made with 100% juice of Ontario apples. And according to my notes many were also at the Toronto Festival of Beer at the end of July trying to make an impact.

 

 

-Brickworks Ciderhouse, Small Batch: 1904, Toronto, 5.0% ABV. Light carbonation, aromas of fresh heritage orchard cider apples from Georgian Bay and Niagara, all GMO free. Citric finish plus spices suggest apple pies. Portion of profits goes to charities. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

-Coffin Ridge Boutique Winery, Forbidden Wicked Artisanal Cider, Annan, 6.5% ABV. Cold pressed and filtered, pale colour, fresh appley flavours, lemon finish. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

-Small Talk Vineyards, Shiny Apple Cider, Niagara on the Lake, 7.0% ABV. Hot tones from the higher alcohol, but definitely apples, could double as a medium-value sparkling grape wine with its apple-lemon complexity. Producer says made from "shiny" Ontario apples. Quality/Price rating is 87 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

-Southern Cliff Brands, Pommies Cider Co., Pommies Farmhouse, Caledon, 6.0% ABV. Baked apples dominate and the effervescence is high. Did they use a wooden hand press? Some wood tones. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

-Spirit Tree Estate Cidery, Spirit Tree Draught Cider, Caledon, 6.0% ABV. Natural draught style, not pasteurized (they use a UV glass panel to destroy pathogens, no heat). Some mammal tones usually found in wine from hotter climates, may be a factor of yeast (e.g., saddles). Gives the cider texture and character. My yum-yum fave of the pack. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

-Thornbury Village Cidery Inc., Thornbury Premium Apple Cider, Thornbury, 5.3% ABV. A bit green and lean with some grass orchard fruit notes amongst the fresh apple tones. Finishes balanced and useful for patios and parties. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

19.Le Clos Jordanne Chardonnay Village Reserve 2012 VQA Niagara, $30 at Jackson-Triggs winery (+33936 for 2011 at LCBO): very minerally, green apple with a somewhat earthy complexity, modest length on the lemony finish. 13.5% ABV. 16 months barrel aging. Do not overchill. Quality/Price rating is 87 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

20.Le Clos Jordanne Chardonnay Claystone Terrace 2012 VQA Twenty Mile Bench, $40 at Jackson-Triggs Winery: minerals, some rancio plus orchard fruit, especially on the mid-palate. Light oaking evident but stronger om the finish. Soft tannins, 13.5% ABV noticeable on finish.16 months barrel aging. Best under-chilled. Tasted better on second and third days. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

21.Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard Chardonnay 2011 VQA Twenty Mile Bench, $40 at Jackson-Triggs Winery: again, pale through the glass, some nice tones of orchard fruit (apples, pears, peaches) and wood, some rancio. A bit richer than the Village Reserve and Claystone Terrace with fewer citric tones. After the mid-palate, fuller aromatics coast through to a long length. Good value, the best of the lot once price is factored in. 13.9% ABV, 16 months in barrel. Best under-chilled, tasted over three days with little change. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

22.Le Clos Jordanne Le Grand Clos Chardonnay 2011 VQA Twenty Mile Bench, $65 at Jackson-Triggs Winery: the top wine. Like the others, colour was pale, citric aromas were smokey with a bit of rancio (and some marmalade), orchard fruit of apples, peaches and pears. Vanilla tones can dominate and promote creaminess. Longer finish, 14.05% ABV. 16 months in barrel. Still a cool climate chardonnay. Do not over-chill. Tasted over three days, and it got better, so lay it down. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.

 

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com
AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com
AND https://twitter.com/gothicepicures

Dean Tudor, Ryerson University Journalism Professor Emeritus
Treasurer, Wine Writers' Circle of Canada
Look it up and you'll remember it; screw it up and you'll never forget it.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com

* THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOK...

...is one of the hottest trends in cookbooks. Actually, they've been around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are automatic best sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or the restaurant and/or the media personality. Many of the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but more often there is not. I'll try to point this out. The usual shtick is "favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks". There is also PR copy on "demystifying ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf also includes much use of the magic phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books) don't seem to work at home, but how could that be? The books all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. The celebrity books, with well-known chefs or entertainers, seem to have too much self-involvement and ego. And, of course, there are a lot of food photo shots, verging on gastroporn. There are endorsements from other celebrities in magnificent cases of logrolling. If resources are cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books –

 

 

4.THE CURIOUS BARISTA'S GUIDE TO COFFEE (Ryland Peters & Small, 2015, 192 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-563-4, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Tristan Stephenson, a well-know celebrity UK bartender, bar owner, and consultant (Fluid Movement). This is his third book (the other two were bar-tending books), and it deals with coffee, with 25 recipes. Most of the book is encyclopedia: guide to coffee producing regions, histories, how to make a cup of coffee through different brewing methods, etc. It is an excellent survey for the price, well illustrated with old adverts, drawings, and a nifty chapter on latte art. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements. Quality/price rating: 88.

 

 

5.GINO'S VEG ITALIA! (Hodder & Stoughton, 2015, 256 pages, ISBN 978-1-444-79519-6, $38.99 CAN hard covers) is by Gino D'Acampo, an Italian chef from Naples now working in the UK as a TV chef on at least three food shows. This is his 13th book, and first meatless book. There are 100 basic recipes for the tried and true Italian veggie, all flavoured with herbs, oils and chili. They are of course, healthy, and provide sustenance along with grains for pasta, gnocchi, pizza, breads, and soups. Some interesting preps include pizza cake with semi-dried tomatoes, spinach and goat's cheese; eggplant lasagne; zucchini mozzarella omelette; and potato rosti and poached egg with fresh herb sauce. Large print and bold face makes this one a useful winner in the kitchen. Arranged by course, from antipasti through pizza, through sides. Preparations have their ingredients listed in mostly metric measurements. Quality/price rating: 86.

 

 

 

 

6.CURBSIDE; modern food from a vagabond chef (Whitecap, 2015, 294 pages, ISBN 978-1-77050-223-9, $32.95 CAN paper covers) is by Adam Hynam-Smith, chef and co-owner of El Gastronomo Vagabundo, Ontario's first gourmet street food truck. He is also a co-host for "Restaurant Takeover" on the Food Network Canada. The preps here have been modified from his prior restaurant experiences, street food pop-ups, and his current truck. He pretty well covers the evolution of street food in North America (although he has Australian roots). He's also got some recipes from other chefs. His own signature dishes include gourmet tacos, traditional curries and soups, and salades composees, many with an emphasis on fish and seafood. He advocates a mise en place to speed things up and to provide essential condiments. The 171 recipes include global foods such as Egyptian eggs and Thai soups. There are photos of plated dishes and techniques as well. Babi in a Bowl comes from Cindy Arman in Toronto, Lamb Souvlaki comes from Cath Claringbold in Melbourne, and Venison Sausages comes from Mike McColl in Burlington. Great food swiftly prepared, useful for guys in the kitchen. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.

 

 

 

7.FEEDING THE FIRE; recipes & strategies for better barbecue and grilling (Artisan, 2015, 264 pages, ISBN 978-1-57965-557-0, $29.95 US hard covers) is by Joe Carroll (Fette Sau and St.Anselm Restaurants in Brooklyn) and Nick Fauchald (Brooklyn-based food editor and author). Log rollers include Steven Raichlen, Adam Perry Lang, and Peter Kaminsky. It comes complete with a wine list of recommended producers, resources (including bibliography), tools, BBQ restaurants in other parts of the US, noted for mutton and sliced pork shoulder or barbacoa and pit beef), and list of his own four restaurants. It's a basic BBQ book but with serious intent: you can have fun only after you know the rules – BBQ is a technique, not a recipe. Keep sides simple. If you must, sauce...Fire equals flavour. Keep charcoal pure. Oil early and oil well. Bringing is worth the time. Leave chicken on the bone. You can grill before noon. And the recipes are classed by these chapter headings. Try Santa maria-style tri-tip, or butcher's steaks with garlic butter. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.

 

 

 

 

 

8.MAANGCHI'S REAL KOREAN COOKING (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2015, 310 pages, ISBN 978-0-544-12989-4, $30 US hard covers) is by Maangchi, who has 48K Fbers, 7K Twitterers, and 313K Utubers (Lauren Chattman is the focusing food writer in the book). Her website at maangchi.com is the top destination for Korean cooking, and gets 1.7 million page views a month. Here, she summarizes everything via authentic dishes for the home cook. These are all the classics and the dishes found in restaurants, ranging from spicy Napa cabbage to bulgogi, fried chicken, and bibimbap. Others include seafood scallion pancake, kimchis, side dishes, and the like with over 800 step-by-step photos. She's got a glossary for ingredients, along with websites for resources. At the back there is a section of a dozen menus (with page references), plus a lunar New Year's Day feast and birthday celebrations. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.

 

 

9.FISH (Ryland, Peters & Small, 2015, 176 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-605-1, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Mat Follas, a UK chef/owner and winner of Marchef (BBC) in 2009. This set is organized by fish type: salmon & tuna, freshwater fish, small fish, round fish, flat fish, exotic fish, with crustaceans, squid and octopus occupying the last quarter of the book. There's material on sustainability, stocks and soups, and drinks to match the food. The 75 recipes come loaded with tips. Preparations have their ingredients listed in mainly avoirdupois measurements with some metric, but there is no overall table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85.

 

 

10.MAGIC SOUP (Orion Publishing Group; distr. Hachette, 2015, 240 pages, ISBN 978-1-4091-5492-1, $34.99 CAN hard covers) is by Nicole Pisani (head chef at Ottolenghi's NOPI in London) and Kate Adams (food author). It is a basic book from the UK, about the comfort levels associated with soups, such as for health and happiness. They've some preps that deal with cleansing, comfort, feats, and chilled soups. Each one of the 100 preps has a meaning. At the back there are lists for other books and web resources. Good photography too. Check out winter miso for one, crayfish congee, lemon chicken and mint with quinoa, mulligatawny, cinnamon and pumpkin soup, and even pickled soup. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85.

 

 

11.SEASON WITH AUTHORITY (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2015, 288 pages, ISBN 978-0-544-31555-6, $30 US hard covers) is by Marc Murphy, chef/owner of the five NYC Benchmarc Restaurants, and a judge for the Food Network. These are his favourite recipes for highly flavoured or seasoned foods (not hot), led by comfort foods such as pastas, familiar foods such as cured salmon or deviled eggs, burgers, and the like. A good book for his fans, and led by such log rollers as Jonathan Waxman, Daniel Boulud, Marcus Samuelsson, and Rachel Ray. Some of the emphasis is on preps that make staple foods taste all that much better, such as pesto or sherry vinaigrette. His book is traditionally arranged by ingredient (apps, salad, pasta, rice, fish, poultry, meats, veggies, desserts) concluding with his famous pantry of seasonings. There's about 130 recipes along with many well-framed and shot photographs. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85.

 

 

12.KEW ON A PLATE; recipes, horticulture and heritage (Headline, 2015, 288 pages, ISBN 978-1-4722-2437-8, $36.99 CAN hard covers) is by Raymond Blanc, OBE (2007), well-known chef/owner of a country house hotel plus a cookery school. The book is being offered by the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, to accompany the BBC Two TV cooking program, Kew on a Plate. There is also a Kitchen Garden that was created at Kew to showcase the botany and the heritage. The aim is give a history of the plant's arrival in the UK along with tips on growing and Blanc's tasting notes and 40 recipes. Topics include potatoes, rhubarb, peas, asparagus, through beetroot to quince – about 20 in all. For each, there are nifty illustrations, botanical drawings, growing notes, use in the kitchen, plus a few recipes. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois mix of measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.

 

 

13.HOME; recipes to cook with family and friends (Little Brown, 2015, 257 pages, ISBN 978-0-316-32388-8, $35 US) is by Bryan Voltaggio, a chef/owner of five establishments in the Washington DV area. He's also been a finalist on two seasons of Top Chefs. Here he presents his take on American comfort foods, with seasonal, farm-to-table cooking. It is a basic mid-Atlantic book, with, as the publisher says, crab waffle Benedict, chicken pot pie fritters, sweet potato fries, rhubarb salad. He's got menus for a crowd, weekend brunches, Sunday suppers, Thanksgiving and Christmas dinners. The measurement quantities in the recipes are in boldface, and in most instances in both metric and avoirdupois, although this can vary. A nice book for the new cook. Nothing daunting. Quality/price rating: 85.

 

 

 

14.EGG; the very best recipes inspired by the simple egg (Weidenfeld & Nicholson, 2015, 208 pages, ISBN 978-0-297-87160-6, $30 CAN hard covers) is by Blanche Vaughan, a London chef (River Cafe, St. John) and food writer (In One Pot). She's written a basic but upscale egg book, emphasizing the taste of the egg. She's got the obvious perfectly poached, scrambled, and fried eggs. But there are also some souffles, tarts, and omelettes, curds, and puddings. British classics are, of course, emphasized, such as the steamed pudding or the Arnold Bennett, and new ones like zucchini fritters and fonduta sauce. It is all arranged by course (breakfast, lunch, tea, supper) or type (puddings, sauces, drinks). With its good photography and ribbon bookmark, this can be a nifty gift book.

Preparations have their ingredients listed in mainly metric with some avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 80.

 

 

15.CHARLIE PALMER'S AMERICAN FARE (Grand Central Life & Style, 2015, 254 pages, ISBN 978-1-4555-3099-1, $40 US hard covers) is by an award-winning chef (Aureole in NYC and Las Vegas, Charlie Palmer Steaks in four cities – 14 restaurants in all). He also owns some wine shops and some boutique hotels. Now he's at the cookbook business. Here he has some 100 preps dedicated to "American" food, that he feels any cook can make with ease. There's corn chowder with shrimp, quick and easy pizza, grilled double lamb chops with roasted garlic-carrot mash, guacamole, and rum-scented lobster with orzo. It is arranged by course (soups, salads, lunches, veggies, sides, pasta, grains, meat, birds, fish, snacks, desserts) plus chapters on family faves and backyard dinners. Enough to keep y'all busy, best served over the summer. There is a sources list as well. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85.

 

 

 

16.HEALTHY PASTA (Appetite by Random House, 2015, 188 pages, ISBN 978-0-449-01683-1, $29.95 US hard covers) is by Joseph Bastianich, the restaurateur co-owner of Batali and Bastianich Hospitality Group and Tanya Bastianich Manuali, a cookbook author who also oversees the production and expansion of her mother Lidia's food line. The siblings have come up with 100 recipes, all under 500 calories per serving. Of course, it is easy to use and can be gluten-free by simply using GF pasta. The trick here is minimizing fats and increasing fibre (using whole-grains). Each prep has a nifty photo and the number of calories per serving. The typeface is large and readable. You could not go wrong with smoked pork with cabbage and ziti, tuna rotini with puttanesca sauce, or shells with cherry tomatoes and sweet peppers. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.

 

 

 

 

17.STRAIGHT UP TASTY; meals, memories, and mouthfuls from my travels (Clarkson Potter, 2015, 224 pages, ISBN 978-0-385-34448-7, $29.99 US hard covers) is another American cookbook, covering breakfast, lunch, snacks, small plates, dinner, side dishes, condiments, and sweets. Adam Richman has hosted and produced several Travel Channel TV shows. He has also written "America the Edible". Here are 100 family-style preps that reflect his travels. In addition, he has mentions of fave places to eat in the US. The book is appealing to millennials because of its style and layout, reflecting bits and pieces of paper in an eclectic array. Look at the photo from baked gouda, for example. Nice long string of cheese. Good wide-ranging photos. Try corn on the cob, gyro burger, deviled scotch eggs, or roast pork and broccoli rabe dumplings. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

* FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH! * The No Time To Cook! Book (DK Books)

THE NO TIME TO COOK! BOOK (DK, 2015, 256 pages, ISBN 978-1-4654-2990-2, $25 US hard covers) is by Elena Rosemond-Hoerr, author of other DK cookbooks and blogger. Laura Herring is listed as "additional contributor". Here are 100 quick and easy recipes that can be prepared in 20 minutes or less, provided that you have an operational pantry and/or a mise en place. There are also many variations. Each prep is broken down into simple visuals (which DK is well-known for) such as graphics, charts, diagrams, even, dare I say, "pie-charts". There are over 600 photos and illustrations, about six per recipe. Topics include "speedy breakfast", "lunch in a flash", "quick weeknight dinners", "short and sweet". Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.

Audience and level of use: the harried but kitchen-wise cook.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: pea and pancetta pasta; fresh fruit hand pies; peach salsa; pan bagna; pad Thai; pumpkin and cinnamon waffles; raspberry cheesecake; feta cheese, tomato and red pesto tart; sweet potato and rosemary quiche cups.

The downside to this book: you might need special equipment, eg, sandwich press, or special spices in the pantry.

The upside to this book: the emphasis is on maximum flavour and minimum effort.

Quality/Price Rating: 88.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Book Reviews from Ann Tudor

August 7, 2015

 

Book Reviews from Ann Tudor

 

1) Ethelind Fearon. The Reluctant Hostess. London: Vintage Books, 2015. Originally published by Herbert Jenkins Ltd., 1954.  129p. illus. $18.99 Cdn. ISBN 9781784870300.

 

First published in 1954, this is a quasi-serious, quasi-hilarious compendium of hints and rules and suggestions for entertaining. Among the eight chapters are "The Three R's: Running Repairs and Routine" and "Some Ghastly Games," and the irreverence of the titles gives us an idea of the author's sense of humour. And yet, beyond the horror of what passed for edible in the 1950s, there are some very apt suggestions for party-giving. I was particularly taken by the emergency solutions provided in "The Three R's": how to remove an airblock from the hot water system; how to refresh black lace (this involves a 12-hour tea soak, gum Arabic, and a thornbush); a homemade glue for mending china; how to clean decanters—and diamonds; how to dispel flies (involves pieces of sponge and lavender oil); escaping gas (do not look for it with a match); how to cool a hot room quickly (dip blankets in water... ); how to mend a rubber raincoat (you'll need a soft rubber eraser and an egg–cup of naphtha). It's the combination of practical and just plain weird that makes this book a delight. Highly recommended for its entertainment value at least as much as its helpful hints for entertaining.

 

 

2) Ruth Reichl. Delicious! New York: Appetite by Random House, 2014. 396p. $19.95pa.Cdn. ISBN 978-0-449-01652-7.

 

Who knew Ruth Reichl was a novelist? We've loved her memoirs over the past years (Comfort Me with Apples; Tender at the Bone), but now we can recognize her gifts as a novelist. The heroine of her new novel, newly hired at Delicious!, a premier food magazine, finds her place in the wide world of food even as she tries to conceal (for mysterious reasons) her own expertise as a cook. Every paragraph entices the reader with vivid descriptions of the aromas and tastes created by the book's characters who love—who live for—food and cooking. An exciting, well-plotted read.

More details are at Ann Tudor's blog: http://www.fastandfearlesscooking.com/#!home/c1yuo

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR AUGUST 8, 2015

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR AUGUST 8, 2015

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By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at www.deantudor.com since 1994. My LCBO tastings are based on MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here.

 

NOTE: The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting. It is getting more difficult to endorse wines under $20 for the simple reason that the LCBO does not release many of them into the Vintages program, ones that can be deemed to be worthy of your consideration. For instance, in this release, there are 25 or so wines priced at $19.95, about ¼ of the release. So I will now just ADD some "under $25" suggestions, along with point values.

 

 

====?>>> ** BEST     WHITE WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *UNDER* $20

 

-Domaine Jacky Marteau Sauvignon Touraine 2014, +745349, $13.95: a wonderfully grassy savvy at a rock bottom price, cork closure. First course and/or cheese. QPR: 91.

 

====?>>> ** BEST RED WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *UNDER* $20

 

-Columbia Crest Grand Estates Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Columbia Valley, +240093, $17.95: excellent red verging on Napa Valley style (due to climate change?), lots of black fruit showing, spices and vanilla tones with butteriness. QPR: 91.

 

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $25:

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1.Herve Azo Chablis 2014, +185736, $21.95. QPR: 90.

2.Chateau Favray Pouilly-Fume 2014, +323642, $21.95. QPR: 90.

3.Rosewood Sussreserve Riesling 2014 VQA Niagara Escarpment, +258806, $14.95: a great summery wine at 9.9% ABV, a sipper for the patio or for indoor entertaining. Twist top, could be valuable with spicy/salty food. QPR: 89.

4.Chateau Martinon Blanc 2013 Entre-deux-Mers, +421230, $14.95: another good value wine based on sauvignon blanc, and hence some sharp grassiness. Best with food, light first course. QPR: 89.

5.Clos les Montys Vieilles Vignes Muscadet Sevre & Maine Sur Lie 2013, +297911, $13.95: the older vines lend some depth and concentration here, 12% ABV, first course wine. Cork closure. QPR: 89.

6.Domaine Lafage Cote Est 2013 IGP Cotes Catalanes, +179838, $14.95: a nifty unoaked blend of grenache blanc, chardonnay and marsanne, showing the expressiveness of the south of France. There's enough succulence here for sipping as well as food. Twist top. QPR: 89.

7.Santa Tresa Rina Lanca Grillo/Viognier 2013 IGT Terre Siciliane, +412650, $13.95: good value here in this 50/50 blend. It is off-dry, patio or first course, and the blend is indigenous (grillo) and international (viogner). 13% ABV, organic, twist top. Gold medal winner. QPR: 89.

 

 

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $25:

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1.Inniskillin Reserve Shiraz/Cabernet 2012 VQA Niagara, +225482, $24.95. QPR: 89.

2.Chateau Chantelys 2010 Cru Bourgeois Medoc, +421214, $21.95. QPR: 89.

3.Chateau Maurac 2010 Haut-Medoc, +365817, $23.95. QPR: 88.

4.Domaine Bonnard Sancerre Rouge 2013, +65995, $23.95. QPR: 91.

5.Cosme Palacio Reserva 2009 Rioja, +14662, $22.95. QPR: 89.

6.Viewpointe Cabernet Franc 2008 VQA Lake Erie North Shore, +359299, $18.95: nicely aged with dried fruit tones, some herbaceousness, and some wood. 14% ABV, and excellent value for its Euro style. QPR: 89.

7.N. Potel Maison Roche de Bellene Cuvee Reserve Pinot Noir Bourgogne 2012, +299859, $19.95: another tasty and top-notch general pinot from Burgundy for under $20. Malolactic fermentation, no filtering, 13% ABV, and lots of ruby goodness in its food wine acidic character. QPR: 89.

8.Chateau de Lancyre Esprit de Garrigue 2013 Languedoc, +415695, $15.95: off-dry in tone, herbs and spices but also fruity. 14% ABV. QPR: 88.

9.Chateau de Treviac 2012 Corbieres, +670505, $16.95: another off-dry syrah/grenache blend from the Midi, and good value too at 14.5% ABV. Gold Medal winner. QPR: 88.

10.Ortas Cave de Rasteau La Domeliere Rasteau 2013, +222917, $15.95: cedary, leafy, some fennel tones, black fruit. Old vines of grenache/syrah/mourvedre, typical 14% ABV.

QPR: 89.

11.Vinhas da Ciderma Donzel 2007 Douro, +408104, $15.95: excellent fruit with wood aging, some dried raisinated qualities, tempranillo adds luster to the blend. 13.5% ABV. QPR: 90.

12.Espelt Viticultors Old Vines Garnacha 2013 Emporda Spain, +422469, $14.95: a massive 15% ABV but an exceedingly small typeface on the label for the vintage year. Still, with some barrel aging the old vines grenache show very well. Welcome back to the LCBO's Garnacha of the Month!! QPR: 90.

13.Osborne Vina Cumbrero Tempranillo Crianza 2010 Rioja, +422097, $14.95: old style Rioja, very well priced, one year in oak, 13.5% ABV. QPR: 89.

 

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $25 RETAIL

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Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10 markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.

 

1.Sokol Blosser Pinot Noir 2011 Dundee Hills Willamette Valley, +748434, $34.95 retail.

2.Belnaves Shiraz 2009 Coonawarra, +45237, $33.95.

3.Paolo Conterno Riva del Bric Barolo 2010 Unfiltered, +172783, $39.95.

4.Villa Mangiacane Riserva Chianti Classico 2009, +413773, $48.95.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

* THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOK...

 

 

...is one of the hottest trends in cookbooks. Actually, they've been around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are automatic best sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or the restaurant and/or the media personality. Many of the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but more often there is not. I'll try to point this out. The usual shtick is "favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks". There is also PR copy on "demystifying ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf also includes much use of the magic phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books) don't seem to work at home, but how could that be? The books all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. The celebrity books, with well-known chefs or entertainers, seem to have too much self-involvement and ego. And, of course, there are a lot of food photo shots, verging on gastroporn. There are endorsements from other celebrities in magnificent cases of logrolling. If resources are cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books –

 

 

 

 

16.COOKIE LOVE (Ten Speed Press, 2015, 290 pages, ISBN 978-1-60774-681-2, $24.99 US hard covers) is by Mindy Segal is a Beard-winning Chicago pastry chef, owner of HotChocolate Restaurant and Dessert Bar. She has freelance writer Kate Leahy as the focusing food writer-editor. They've got more than 60 recipes and techniques for elevating the level of the cookie. The book is divided by type: drop cookies, shortbreads, sandwich cookies, egg white cookies, twice-baked (hey, biscuits), rugelach, bars, and thumbprints. There are lots of primers dealing with basics and pantries, as well as equipment and tips and sources. Try smoky bacon candy bar cookies, kitchen sink cookies, goat butter shortbreads, or apple confit breakfast pie squares. Scrumptious! Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are tables of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.

 

 

 

17.MILK BAR LIFE; recipes and stories (Clarkson Potter, 2015, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0-7704-3510-3, $35 US hard covers) is by Christina Tosi, the pastry chef-owner of Momofuku Milk Bar and the pastry chef for Momofuku itself. She also teaches classes and has a line of  mixes and cookies. She's assisted by Courtney McBroom. It is a collection of recipes from the restaurants as well as life stories and memoirs, anchored by gorgeous photos of people and dishes. It has an eclectic arrangement of preps, beginning with "hand me downs", recipes from her childhood and the related stories of how they happened to be. But all courses are covered from apps to desserts, such as brisket and broccoli, apple dumplings, smoked cantaloupe jam, mango drinks, Tex-mex breakfast casserole, and burnt-butter honey. You'll have fun with this one as it flits about. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.

 

 

 

18.PRESERVATION SOCIETY HOME PRESERVES (Robert Rose, 2015, 192 pages, ISBN 978-0-7788-0503-8, $24.95 CAN paper covers) is by Camilla Wynne, founder of the business Preservation Society (Montreal). It's a small batch preserves firm. Some of the contents of this book were previous published in 2013 as "Les conserves selon Camilla". There are 100 preps here, with all of the classics and some re-inventions and some contemporary preserves as well.  She's also got 18 recipes that use the preserves in cooking (jam-swirled cheesecake, marmalade truffles, pb & j scones, et al). Canning is experiencing a comeback, especially since it is easier than in the past. Less work such as no pectin, less sugar, no special equipment, using the freezer. After the primer basics, she covers jams, marmalades, jellies, butters, canned fruit, syrups, pickles, chutneys, relishes, and savoury jams. Each recipe is carefully detailed in that Robert Rose style, with cooks notes and tips as well as both metric and avoirdupois measurements. Quality/price rating: 87.

 

 

19.GOOD FOOD, GOOD LIFE (Appetite by Random House, 2015, 290 pages, ISBN 978-0-449-0-1589-6, $35 CAN hard covers) is by Curtis Stone, chef, restaurateur, and TV food host. This is his sixth book. It is an international collection of 130 of his fave recipes, arranged by type of dish (light meals, dinners, sides, sweets, mornings, snacks and drinks). It is a useful compilation of tasty food, taken from all stages of his cooking life, for the home cook.  Light meals include posole, seafood stew with cream and fennel, pan bagnat, navy bean and ham soup. Dinners include piri piri chicken with slaw, roasted pork belly with applesauce, penne with sausage and broccoli rabe, and teriyaki beef ribs with enoki mushrooms. Sweets include cherry-amaretto lattice pie or roasted banana souffles with caramel sauce. The index has a large enough typeface, larger than the ingredient listings in the recipes. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85.

 

 

20.BACK IN THE DAY BAKERY MADE WITH LOVE (Artisan, 2015, 302 pages, ISBN 978-1-57965-556-3, $24.95 US hard covers) is from Cheryl and Grif Day, the lovable owners of Back in the Day Bakery in Savannah. Their first book was a hit, and now they are back. Here are more than 100 recipes and DIY projects, arranged by form: pie, cakes, breads, holiday celebrations, breakfasts, treats, savory pies, and make-ahead preserves. Down home cooking all the way, starting with caramel cake with salted caramel frosting, buttermilk waffles with candied bacon, apple brandy brown butter-glazed cake, festive yule log, and chocolate bubble loaf. The five page French baguette recipe that made Julia Child's book  so wonderful for home bakers has been almost matched here by the Day's four page ciabatta rolls recipe. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.

 

 

 

21.FRANKLIN BARBECUE (Ten Speed Press, 2015, 214 pages, ISBN 978-1-60774-720-6, $29.99 US hard covers) is by Aaron Franklin, co-owner along with wife Stacy of Franklin Barbecue in Texas. It has nothing to do with the Franklin Stove. It's subtitle is "a meat-smoking manifesto". Texas BBQ is all about beef, but there are some pork preps here as well as turkey breast. And of course everything is smoked. This is BBQ from scratch, with sections on building/customizing smokers, finding/curing the right wood, creating/tending fires, and top-quality meats. We don't even get to the preps until about page 125. A book for the completist, for the really committed backyard smoked BBQ fan. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.

 

 

 

 

22.WILD COCKTAILS (Cico Books, 2015, 208 pages, ISBN 978-1-78249-200-9, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Lottie Muir, owner of The Midnight Apothecary in London. Over the years she has cultivated botanicals near the Thames, with veggies, herbs and flowers, transforming them into cocktail additives. She now teaches botanical cocktail masterclasses and works with the Royal Horticultural Society. Here she has 100 or so recipes for cocktails using seasonal and foraged plants. She's also got preps for infusions, syrups, bitters, and liqueurs. Her primer covers home equipment and techniques. Cocktail recipes begin at page 110; the preceding pages are all about setups and techniques. She's got limoncello with strawberries and cream foam, lavender gin fizz, pea tini, strawberry and basil gimlet – all good healthy food (especially if you dropped the alcohol). There's more at www.thecocktailgardener.co.uk. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, and there is a resources list. Quality/price rating: 87.

 

 

 

23.SALSAS AND MOLES (Ten Speed Press, 2015, 152 pages, ISBN 978-1-60774-685-0, $16.99 US hard covers) is by Deborah Schneider, executive chef/partner of SOL Mexican Cocina and Solita Tacos. She's also a multiple award-winning cookbook author, specializing in Mexican cuisine. Here she has a little book on fresh salsa and moles, for pico de gallo, mole poblano, guacamole, chimichurri, and other classics. She's got a primer on chilies and fresh ingredients, followed by sections on classic table salsa, hot salsas, salsa for tacos, mole salsa, and chunky salsas – about 100 in all. Good selection of salsas and botanas. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.

 

 

24.STATEN ITALY (Grand Central Life & Style, 2015, 256 pages, ISBN 978-1-4555-8354-6, $28 US hard covers) is by cousins Francis Garcia and Sol Basile, founders of Artichoke Pizza on 14th Street in NYC (2008). The question: do we need another Italian cookbook ? Obviously they publisher seems to think so. The variation here is the success story of a pizza joint that now has six locations in NYC and Berkeley, along with a frozen pizza line and a cooking show about American pizzerias. Rachel Holtzman is the focusing food writer. It's also a memoir book with photos and nostalgic remembrances of Italian food in America. Certainly it will sell well to its many fans. It's arranged by course, with apps through desserts to accompany the pizzas. Different styles are discussed along with a multitude of sauces and ideas for menus and entertaining. Typical dishes include artichoke fritters (of course), fried rice balls, roasted red peppers, eggs pizzaiola, broccoli rabe and sausages, plus a variety of pasta dishes. Family style at its best.

Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

The Event: the VIP Opening Reception function and Press Launch for the Pan American Food Festival.

The Date and Time:  Friday July 31, 2015  6:30PM to 9PM plus

The Event: the VIP Opening Reception function and Press Launch for the Pan American Food Festival.

The Venue: Daniels Spectrum

The Target Audience: VIPS, Latin and food media.

The Availability/Catalogue: tonight, it was all about the food, preps from Mexico as the Featured Country.

The Quote/Background: Food demonstrations by international chefs, kids' activities, Latin dance workshops, and a Pan American outdoors vendors market. Events are held inside Daniels Spectrum and on the neighboring streets Regent Park Boulevard and St. David's Walk, creating a large outdoor street fair called the Pan American Market for visitors to discover the diverse cuisine and cultures of the Americas. Many Pan American food vendors and food trucks will sell specialties from their respective countries all weekend, bringing the Pan American flavours to Toronto. In addition, the Festival's Culinary Curator, Mary Luz Mejía, has put together a line-up of culinary talent to present food demonstrations and participate in international food competitions judged by the public. A total of twenty-five Pan American chefs will demo dishes, including: Chefs Federico Martinez (first winner of Master Chef Colombia), Ryan Wilson-Lall (chef de cuisine at the AGO's FRANK restaurant), Paola Solorzano (representing this year's host country, Mexico), Elias Salazar (competing in Heladisimo with his Peruvian cacao and quinoa paleta), Cristian Heise (winner of PanAm FoodFest's 2014 Best Tamale, represents Chile in Empanada Battle), and Pedro Quintanilla (from Bloom Restaurant in Bloor West Village, representing Cuba, who will demo his Picadillo Cubano). There will be an Empanada Battle (Saturday night) and a Masa Mas Lucha Libra battle for regional Mexican dishes featuring masa-based preps (Sunday).  On Monday, there is the Heladisimo ice cream competition.

The Food: we went mainly for the foods to taste. There were speeches, dancers and singers for later in the evening, but for us it was all about the food. There were seven wonderful examples of Mexican food in small bites. We began at Frida's (a fave Mexican restaurant we have been going to for years), with their  aromatic panucho con cochinita pibil (a pork specialty from Yucatan); Carmen's Cocina Espanola featured an exotic Mayan masa dish with pork belly; Chef de la Rosa, a catering firm, did a dynamic pulled pork mole on lettuce leaf (great texture); another caterer, Paola Solorzano from Santo Pecado produced a spicy seafood and shrimp seviche on taco; Los Colibris did a zesty tamarind seviche that included mango and chips; Valentina, another caterer, did a wonderful cascabel chili braised beef cheek tostada with her three additional sauces (including a smokey and a mild pico de gallo); and the cheese course at the end came from Tropical Trading, serving Les Fromages Latino (rich Mexican cream, local cheeses that were fried or served with guava paste, and others) – sort of like the icing on the cake!

The Downside: the reception started late, and I was disappointed that there were no more wines to taste other than the Barefoot Moscato.

The Upside: a chance to talk with the food chefs and the Tequila sponsors (Herradura and El Jimador).

The Contact Person: mediadirector@panamfoodfest.com or www.panamfoodfest.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 92.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

* DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH! * - Ten Cocktails (Salt Yard Books)

TEN COCKTAILS; the art of convivial drinking (Salt Yard Books, 2015, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-444-79137-2, $25 US hard covers) is by Alice Lascelles, hard liquor columnist for the The Times in UK. She has also done free lance writing about cocktails for other publications. Her book is part memoir, part history, and anecdotal as she searches Havana for the best Daiquiri, harvests juniper in Umbria, sips Sazeracs in New Orleans, and cruises The Savoy Cocktail Bar. She covers, as well, Gin & Tonic, Martini, Negroni, Punch, Old Fashioned, White Russian, Bloody Mary. As she says, the book is a "distillation of the best stories, people, places and recipes that I've unearthed in ten years of writing about the hard stuff". But along the way she explores what makes a particular cocktail. Preparations have their ingredients listed in metric measurements, but there is no table of equivalents.

Audience and level of use: those interested in a good story and trivia about spirits.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: "If you can just master the ten recipes in this book, you will have acquired almost every technique you need to make any drink that matters".

The downside to this book: except for the recipes, all of the text is in grey print, which makes it hard to read unless the room is well-lit.

The upside to this book: a good idea, covering the basics.

Quality/Price Rating: 88.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

* FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH! * == Tres Green, Tres Clean, Tres Chic (The Experiment)

 

 

TRES GREEN, TRES CLEAN, TRES CHIC (The Experiment, 2014, 2015, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-61519-251-9, $19.95 US paper covers) is by Rebecca Leffler, a former French film journalist now doing "Green, Clean, and Chic" consultancies in New York and Paris. The book was originally published in French in 2014, and was translated for the US market. It is vegan and seasonal French cooking, along with gluten-free elements. The subtitle pretty much says it all: "eat (and live!) the new French way with plant-based gluten-free recipes for every season". She's also got some beauty tips, yoga poses, and happy music to sing along with. At the back she's got resources lists. There is also a lot of log rolling blurbs (about 10 endorsements) including David Lebovitz. She's got 150 or so plant-based recipes with no gluten, soy and refined sugar, arranged by season. Other material serves as positive reinforcement (yoga, natural treatments, and music to sing along to). There are also contributed recipes from a dozen or so other writers and restaurateurs. Preparations have their ingredients listed in small type and mostly avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents unfortunately.

Audience and level of use: millennials

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: green smoothies; rainbow tomato carpaccio with raspberries and purple basil; spring salad with mustard-miso vinaigrette; healthy wrap sandwiches; muesli; baby dahl; NOtella spread.

The downside to this book: slight ADHD feelings due to jittery typefaces, colours, layout and the like. But I'm sure millennials fit right in, and it is juts me being crabby.

The upside to this book: good idea for all things French.

Quality/Price Rating: 89.

 

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Chimo! www.deantudor.com

* DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH! * === Art of American Whiskey (Ten Speed Press)

THE ART OF AMERICAN WHISKEY (Ten Speed Press, 2015, 186 pages, ISBN 978-1-60774-718-5, $19.99 US hard covers) is by Noah Rothbaum, spirits article writer and author of The Business of Spirits (as well as former editor-in-chief of liquor.com). Lots of log rolling, which is now a permanent feature of book-selling; apparently, it is easier to trust someone you might have heard of rather than a publicist for a publisher. This is a visual history through 100 iconic labels plus archival photos and drawings. The frame is late 1800s through now, embracing prohibition, war years, swinging sixties, and so on. It is a very pleasant read, with a bibliography for further reading.

Audience and level of use: excellent beginner book for the budding brown spirit lover.

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: sales of American whiskey (bourbon, Tennessee, rye, corn) were up almost 40% between 2000 and 2014.

The downside to this book: a bit short in length.

The upside to this book: excellent illustrations.

Quality/Price Rating: 89.

 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com